Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers - Page 191 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5701 of 8310 Old 07-09-2018, 06:56 PM
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^bob,

It might be worth your time to think about how to name your ARC files and any notes you want to capture along with them. For example, I keep a running log of things tried kind of like this:

ARC File 2018-04-24C
Same as "B" but with max EQ frequency at 500 Hz. Turns out there is a trough from about 200 to 500 Hz, potentially impacting dialog clarity.
:
:
ARC File 2018-05-15A
41" mic height, calibrated with the grills off.
The ARC files are retained for as long as they seem potentially useful to fall back to. My approach is kind of a Champion / Challenger method, and knowing where the Champion ARC file is can be important if the Challenger doesn't work out. Sometimes it can take a couple of days before it's obvious that something isn't right.

Probably sounds more complex than it is but the cumulative impact of a lot of small changes has been significant. This helped me keep track of it and protect my time investment.

Just one more upgrade and things will be perfect.
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post #5702 of 8310 Old 07-09-2018, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
Awesome, Hope you don't regret the offer


So, an ARC run replaces all 4 profiles with the new results? And you can save your previous settings first and upload them. Very cool

Then you can tweak individual profiles to you hearts content and only upload them 1 at a time?

I will try full range on my fronts and center. Should I leave the xover at 80? I'm pretty sure that's where they are on my old Mcintosh pre/pro.


We watch 95% network TV and streaming so I would optimize for that. But nice to have a profile just for Blu-Ray or 2 channel also.

Thanks again, I'm a bit older and appreciate help

bob
No you can only have the four profiles in any ARC run you upload so you can't pick and choose profiles from various ARC runs. Running ARCmultiple times is really only good if you think things might sound better if by some chance you feel you didn't have the mic in the exact positions you wanted and an inch here or there in placement makes a difference. By right you really only need to run ARC once and only only re-run ARC if you added furniture, drapes, equipment etc... If the room doesn't change then there's really no reason to rerun ARC. you get four profiles and can tweak them all you like but you only get the four in the ARC run.


Full range means 20Hz-20000 kHz so full range means the crossover is deactivated.

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post #5703 of 8310 Old 07-09-2018, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
No you can only have the four profiles in any ARC run you upload so you can't pick and choose profiles from various ARC runs. Running ARCmultiple times is really only good if you think things might sound better if by some chance you feel you didn't have the mic in the exact positions you wanted and an inch here or there in placement makes a difference. By right you really only need to run ARC once and only only re-run ARC if you added furniture, drapes, equipment etc... If the room doesn't change then there's really no reason to rerun ARC. you get four profiles and can tweak them all you like but you only get the four in the ARC run.


Full range means 20Hz-20000 kHz so full range means the crossover is deactivated.
The main reason I want to run it again is that our room is small, couch backs up to draped window, love seat @ 90°'s to couch and I picked 5 measurements by mistake. I thought 3 should be fine so I had to find places to take the measurement The manual didn't give a lot of guidance on that.

With F/C set to full range, what would you set the sub settings to in the Target screen?

thx

bob
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post #5704 of 8310 Old 07-09-2018, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill-99 View Post
^bob,

It might be worth your time to think about how to name your ARC files and any notes you want to capture along with them. For example, I keep a running log of things tried kind of like this:

ARC File 2018-04-24C
Same as "B" but with max EQ frequency at 500 Hz. Turns out there is a trough from about 200 to 500 Hz, potentially impacting dialog clarity.
:
:
ARC File 2018-05-15A
41" mic height, calibrated with the grills off.
The ARC files are retained for as long as they seem potentially useful to fall back to. My approach is kind of a Champion / Challenger method, and knowing where the Champion ARC file is can be important if the Challenger doesn't work out. Sometimes it can take a couple of days before it's obvious that something isn't right.

Probably sounds more complex than it is but the cumulative impact of a lot of small changes has been significant. This helped me keep track of it and protect my time investment.
Great idea. Things could get real confusing if you don'!

bob
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post #5705 of 8310 Old 07-09-2018, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
The main reason I want to run it again is that our room is small, couch backs up to draped window, love seat @ 90°'s to couch and I picked 5 measurements by mistake. I thought 3 should be fine so I had to find places to take the measurement The manual didn't give a lot of guidance on that.

With F/C set to full range, what would you set the sub settings to in the Target screen?

thx

bob
The minimum number of positions for an ARC run is 5 so you won't be able to measure just 3 positions.

As for full range if you set your mains to full range the sub will not play. In order to have the sub play at the same time as the mains you have to uncheck full range in ARC and have a crossover/cutoff. Having the mains play full range and the sub also play is what's known as double bass because the mains and the sub are both playing the same frequencies. Anthem doesn't allow double bass because the mains and sub would play the same frequencies and cancel each other out.

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post #5706 of 8310 Old 07-09-2018, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
The minimum number of positions for an ARC run is 5 so you won't be able to measure just 3 positions.

As for full range if you set your mains to full range the sub will not play. In order to have the sub play at the same time as the mains you have to uncheck full range in ARC and have a crossover/cutoff. Having the mains play full range and the sub also play is what's known as double bass because the mains and the sub are both playing the same frequencies. Anthem doesn't allow double bass because the mains and sub would play the same frequencies and cancel each other out.
Thanks, I'll set them to 80hz then like they always have been.

bob
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post #5707 of 8310 Old 07-09-2018, 08:07 PM
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Thanks, I'll set them to 80hz then like they always have been.

bob
ARC set your fronts to 80Hz, center to 80Hz, surrounds to 110Hz and sub to 250Hz. Don't change any of them. ARC sets everything for a very well balanced system and changing the crossovers/cutoffs breaks the balance ARC has created. ARC has determined the best crossovers based on the capabilities of your speakers and how they interact with your room so make sure you never change the crossovers.

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post #5708 of 8310 Old 07-09-2018, 08:17 PM
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This is regarding the eventual replacement of the Anthem AVM 60 with HDMI 2.1 in the near future.

I am upgrading almost everything with the exception of my Sierra RAAL Towers. I would like to to with 9.2.2 set up. I plan to get Monolith 7 x 200 amp by Monoprice which is a decent amp. I was looking at the Emotiva A-700 Amp to use just for the Height speakers (Atmos and Aura-3D). Would the Emotiva work with the Monolith using the AVM 60 (or its replacement) since the Emotiva Amp uses unbalanced inputs and I would be running balanced from the Monolith Amp? IF not I could get a 5 Channel Monolith but it's not inexpensive and I don't think I need 200 watts per channel for the height speakers.

Thanks.

Sierra RAAL Towers; everything else is going to be updated when HDMI 2.1 is reality. Everything!
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post #5709 of 8310 Old 07-09-2018, 08:29 PM
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This is regarding the eventual replacement of the Anthem AVM 60 with HDMI 2.1 in the near future.

I am upgrading almost everything with the exception of my Sierra RAAL Towers. I would like to to with 9.2.2 set up. I plan to get Monolith 7 x 200 amp by Monoprice which is a decent amp. I was looking at the Emotiva A-700 Amp to use just for the Height speakers (Atmos and Aura-3D). Would the Emotiva work with the Monolith using the AVM 60 (or its replacement) since the Emotiva Amp uses unbalanced inputs and I would be running balanced from the Monolith Amp? IF not I could get a 5 Channel Monolith but it's not inexpensive and I don't think I need 200 watts per channel for the height speakers.

Thanks.
Since the 60 has balanced and unbalanced outputs and there isn't a switch or menu setting that turns them on/off you can use balanced for one amp and unbalanced for another. This is how it works on the 60 but there's no way of know how it will work on any future replacement.

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post #5710 of 8310 Old 07-09-2018, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
ARC set your fronts to 80Hz, center to 80Hz, surrounds to 110Hz and sub to 250Hz. Don't change any of them. ARC sets everything for a very well balanced system and changing the crossovers/cutoffs breaks the balance ARC has created. ARC has determined the best crossovers based on the capabilities of your speakers and how they interact with your room so make sure you never change the crossovers.
Got it. I will also do a full range 2 channel run because I don't like a sub with music.

thx
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post #5711 of 8310 Old 07-09-2018, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
Got it. I will also do a full range 2 channel run because I don't like a sub with music.

thx

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post #5712 of 8310 Old 07-10-2018, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by psychdoctor View Post
This is regarding the eventual replacement of the Anthem AVM 60 with HDMI 2.1 in the near future.

I am upgrading almost everything with the exception of my Sierra RAAL Towers. I would like to to with 9.2.2 set up. I plan to get Monolith 7 x 200 amp by Monoprice which is a decent amp. I was looking at the Emotiva A-700 Amp to use just for the Height speakers (Atmos and Aura-3D). Would the Emotiva work with the Monolith using the AVM 60 (or its replacement) since the Emotiva Amp uses unbalanced inputs and I would be running balanced from the Monolith Amp? IF not I could get a 5 Channel Monolith but it's not inexpensive and I don't think I need 200 watts per channel for the height speakers.

Thanks.

Keep your eye on D-Sonic - I don't know how soon you're wanting to upgrade, but D-Sonic seems to be planning an 11-channel amp that I believe will be both XLR and RCA. And no, you don't need that much power for height speakers, but that's the min. you'll end up getting in a D-Sonic, but it is what it is. The pricing will be pretty dang competitive from what it sounds like with the 200 watt modules. Just a thought.....

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #5713 of 8310 Old 07-10-2018, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
ARC set your fronts to 80Hz, center to 80Hz, surrounds to 110Hz and sub to 250Hz. Don't change any of them. ARC sets everything for a very well balanced system and changing the crossovers/cutoffs breaks the balance ARC has created. ARC has determined the best crossovers based on the capabilities of your speakers and how they interact with your room so make sure you never change the crossovers.

Thanks,

Didn't realize that ARC had set those according to my setup, not just a stock setting.

bob
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post #5714 of 8310 Old 07-10-2018, 06:25 PM
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Levels

After ARC, I see that my levels were all high which makes sense when looking at the charts. (See attached)

When I first got the 720 and ran the test tones, I had to increase the offset by around 4, I think to hit 75 db on my spl meter ( c weight).

When I turn ARC off, do those level gains that ARC applied still come into play? If so, That would explain why the non-ARC volume is so much louder?


thx

bob
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post #5715 of 8310 Old 07-10-2018, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
After ARC, I see that my levels were all high which makes sense when looking at the charts. (See attached)

When I first got the 720 and ran the test tones, I had to increase the offset by around 4, I think to hit 75 db on my spl meter ( c weight).

When I turn ARC off, do those level gains that ARC applied still come into play? If so, That would explain why the non-ARC volume is so much louder?


thx

bob
Hi Bob, yes the level adjustments ARC set are still in effect when you turn ARC off. So when ARC is off you get the level adjustment increase as well as any increase from the ARC EQ-ing being off so it should be louder when ARC is off.

It looks like your levels are very high and you said your room is small which should mean low levels not high levels to achieve 75dB. 75dB should be easier to achieve in a small room, which should result in lower levels. unless your speakers aren't very efficient. What speakers do you have and when you ran ARC where was the first mic position? Was it at ear level or front main speaker tweeter level? I'm asking because ARC sets the levels based on the first mic position .


BTW here's some light reading on ARC https://hometheaterhifi.com/technica...-optimization/

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post #5716 of 8310 Old 07-11-2018, 08:48 AM
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Please forgive me if this has been covered before but I just tried searching and couldn't find anything. I have an MRX-720 being fed from an Oppo 203 and Apple TV 4k. The HDMI-outs go to a motorized lift-mounted JVC DLA520 and a wall-mounted Pioneer Kuro Pro-151. When I first fired everything up, I couldn't get 4k on the JVC. Investigation revealed my BJC Belden couldn't pass the 4k signal at just over 50 foot length. I went to the huge PITA of running an RUIPRO fiber cable.

I fired everything up and got a beautiful 4k pic of The Last Jedi. When I shut the JVC down and tried to watch Apple TV on the Pioneer, the Pioneer would not lock the signal. A call to Anthem stated it was an HCDP issue and they told me to get a Linker. I purchased an HDFury Linker and went through several different attempts to no avail.

Here is the thing. With the RUIPRO cable unplugged, the Apple 4k correctly switches the resolution to 1080p and pops the signal onto the Pioneer no problem. When the RUIPRO is plugged in, it keeps trying to lock onto the JVC (which is OFF), cycling from no signal to HDMI-2 back and forth, causing the Pioneer to lock on and off at the same frequency. I tried a remote controlled HDMI switcher but it had auto sense and kept switching off and on too. The electronics in the RUIPRO are pulling power from somewhere even though the JVC is powered down.

Anthem confirmed that HDMI-1 and 2 are always active. This is a fatal flaw for my setup. On my old Denon 5308 (no obsolete with no ATMOS), each input could pick which HDMI out it used. My inputs on the Anthem are currently set up as Oppo Pioneer, Oppo JVC, Apple Pioneer, Apple JVC, and Oppo Music for analog two channel listening. If I could just assign HDMI-2 to the inputs for watching the JVC, my issue would be solved.

I am pretty aggravated at Anthem that at this price point I can't assign the HDMI-OUT to a specific display device. I am super frustrated at this point thinking I am going to have to abandon the Anthem altogether. It's a bummer because I think the sound is superb.

If anyone can offer any suggestions to how I can get this to work I would be in your debt. My anthem is rack mounted and going in between cabinets. I can't be pulling the rack out and plugging and unplugging HDMI cables every time I want to watch a movie on the JVC.
I have had similar issues - though with two TVs, not a projector and TV (multiple sources - AppleTV, Roku, HTPC). You are correct, it is unfortunate that the two HDMI outputs cannot be set independently.

Bob Pariseau explained that the resolution defaults to the lowest of the two devices even if the device may be off. He suggested using different HDMI inputs on the TV to see if it helped but it did not in my case. The only way I have managed to keep both my TVs to behave is by using a splitter on HDMI Out 1 and connect both TVs to it. It does not resolve the independent HDMI issue but at least now both TVs display content at their optimal resolution. I have not had a chance to verify any display quality issues that may have been introduced by the splitter yet.

Not sure if this helps you in any way but I understand your frustration...

Regards,

Zubair
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post #5717 of 8310 Old 07-11-2018, 11:20 AM
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Question Help with stuttering needed

I have an MRX 1120 and for some inputs the audio stutters. It happens only on higher density audio sources. It happens both on streaming sources like from Netflix or Amazon as well as SACD discs (e.g. 48kHz Atmos)
I use a ROKU 4 for the streaming sources and an OPPO 203 disc player.
I don't use ARC and have not tried the TV as a source.

Has anyone seen (and hopefully fixed) this behavior?
I have good HDMI cables and so this only seems to leave the receiver.

====
MRX1120, Oppo 203, LG & Samsung HDR, XboneS, Xfinity X1, Harmony
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post #5718 of 8310 Old 07-11-2018, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ZubairA View Post
I have had similar issues - though with two TVs, not a projector and TV (multiple sources - AppleTV, Roku, HTPC). You are correct, it is unfortunate that the two HDMI outputs cannot be set independently.

Bob Pariseau explained that the resolution defaults to the lowest of the two devices even if the device may be off. He suggested using different HDMI inputs on the TV to see if it helped but it did not in my case. The only way I have managed to keep both my TVs to behave is by using a splitter on HDMI Out 1 and connect both TVs to it. It does not resolve the independent HDMI issue but at least now both TVs display content at their optimal resolution. I have not had a chance to verify any display quality issues that may have been introduced by the splitter yet.

Not sure if this helps you in any way but I understand your frustration...

Regards,

Zubair

Thanks for responding. Makes me feels somewhat good I am not alone. I have ordered an HDFury Vertex ($360!!) and I'm told by HDFury Tech support it will correct the problem. I will post back up if it works.
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post #5719 of 8310 Old 07-11-2018, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Swatdude1 View Post
Anthem confirmed that HDMI-1 and 2 are always active. This is a fatal flaw for my setup. On my old Denon 5308 (no obsolete with no ATMOS), each input could pick which HDMI out it used. My inputs on the Anthem are currently set up as Oppo Pioneer, Oppo JVC, Apple Pioneer, Apple JVC, and Oppo Music for analog two channel listening. If I could just assign HDMI-2 to the inputs for watching the JVC, my issue would be solved.

If anyone can offer any suggestions to how I can get this to work I would be in your debt. My anthem is rack mounted and going in between cabinets. I can't be pulling the rack out and plugging and unplugging HDMI cables every time I want to watch a movie on the JVC.
I am sympathetic. Similar issue for me, and my workaround took advantage of the fact that I kept my previous Oppo 93 in the system after adding the Oppo 203 for 4k. The key was to isolate the 4k video path into the RS-520 from the rest of the system.

The Oppo 203 Main HDMI output feeds the RS-520 directly. I use it for any discs I want to see on the PJ. If I add another 4k source, I can feed that through the Oppo HDMI input. (The 203's Audio HDMI output feeds the AVM 60).

All other HD sources (including the Oppo 93) connect to the AVM 60 as normal. One of the AVM HDMI outputs feeds the second RS-520 input while the second output feeds a small HDTV screen I use for music navigation, news, etc when the projector is off.

I can watch any discs of any format on the Oppo 203/RS-520, but if I want to watch an HD/DVD disc on the smaller TV I have to use the Oppo 93.

It sounds worse than it is.

Deadwood II Theater (Previous Deadwood Theater HTOM)
Anthem AVM 60 7.4.4; Classé SSP-800 PLIIx 7.4; MiniDSP OpenDRC-AN
Oppo UDP-203; Oppo BDP-93; Win10 media PC w/Roon+Kodi; Roku Ultra; DirecTV Genie
Adam Audio S3V/S3H LCR, KEF Ci200QS 4 srrnd, Tannoy Di6 DC 4 hts, Hsu ULS-15 4 subs
JVC RS520; Stewart Cima Neve screen 125" diag 2.35:1, MLP at 115"
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Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post
I am sympathetic. Similar issue for me, and my workaround took advantage of the fact that I kept my previous Oppo 93 in the system after adding the Oppo 203 for 4k. The key was to isolate the 4k video path into the RS-520 from the rest of the system.

The Oppo 203 Main HDMI output feeds the RS-520 directly. I use it for any discs I want to see on the PJ. If I add another 4k source, I can feed that through the Oppo HDMI input. (The 203's Audio HDMI output feeds the AVM 60).

All other HD sources (including the Oppo 93) connect to the AVM 60 as normal. One of the AVM HDMI outputs feeds the second RS-520 input while the second output feeds a small HDTV screen I use for music navigation, news, etc when the projector is off.

I can watch any discs of any format on the Oppo 203/RS-520, but if I want to watch an HD/DVD disc on the smaller TV I have to use the Oppo 93.

It sounds worse than it is.

Roger, I'm intrigued by your setup!! Let me know if you think this could work: I could run the Oppo full HDMI Fiber cable direct to the JVC and then run the Oppo audio HDMI-out to the Anthem. Then I put a splitter in at the Apple 4k and feed the Pioneer TV and the Oppo HDMI input for Apple 1080P or 4k Movies.
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post #5721 of 8310 Old 07-11-2018, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Swatdude1 View Post
Roger, I'm intrigued by your setup!! Let me know if you think this could work: I could run the Oppo full HDMI Fiber cable direct to the JVC and then run the Oppo audio HDMI-out to the Anthem. Then I put a splitter in at the Apple 4k and feed the Pioneer TV and the Oppo HDMI input for Apple 1080P or 4k Movies.
Disconnecting the RS520 from the Anthem will avoid the original problem of sharing to the Pioneer TV.

Kinda depends on the splitter. If it has a 4k program from Apple TV, that will be fine into the Oppo but what happens if the other output sees the HD Pioneer? And does it see the Pioneer even when it is powered off? If so, will it do same as the Anthem, and feed both with the HD signal? That's something you'd need to confirm.

Deadwood II Theater (Previous Deadwood Theater HTOM)
Anthem AVM 60 7.4.4; Classé SSP-800 PLIIx 7.4; MiniDSP OpenDRC-AN
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post #5722 of 8310 Old 07-11-2018, 10:43 PM
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what is the best way for Subwoofer EQ ?
I have a Behringer DEQ 2496 and two Subwoofers Diagonal stand.

woud it be the best first Run ARC and then EQ´d with the Behringer or the other way ?

My room has Standing waves by 42 / 62 & 68 Hz (roommode´s )

the 60hz Mode´s and above is really noisy.
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post #5723 of 8310 Old 07-12-2018, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by KKK101 View Post
what is the best way for Subwoofer EQ ?
I have a Behringer DEQ 2496 and two Subwoofers Diagonal stand.

woud it be the best first Run ARC and then EQ´d with the Behringer or the other way ?

My room has Standing waves by 42 / 62 & 68 Hz (roommode´s )

the 60hz Mode´s and above is really noisy.
If you are going to use a separate Sub EQ system, do that FIRST and then run your ARC setup. For ARC to create the proper blending between Sub and main speakers it must measure the actual output of the Sub, including any external correction being applied to the Sub.
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post #5724 of 8310 Old 07-12-2018, 03:30 AM
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Please forgive me if this has been covered before but I just tried searching and couldn't find anything. I have an MRX-720 being fed from an Oppo 203 and Apple TV 4k. The HDMI-outs go to a motorized lift-mounted JVC DLA520 and a wall-mounted Pioneer Kuro Pro-151. When I first fired everything up, I couldn't get 4k on the JVC. Investigation revealed my BJC Belden couldn't pass the 4k signal at just over 50 foot length. I went to the huge PITA of running an RUIPRO fiber cable.

I fired everything up and got a beautiful 4k pic of The Last Jedi. When I shut the JVC down and tried to watch Apple TV on the Pioneer, the Pioneer would not lock the signal. A call to Anthem stated it was an HCDP issue and they told me to get a Linker. I purchased an HDFury Linker and went through several different attempts to no avail.

Here is the thing. With the RUIPRO cable unplugged, the Apple 4k correctly switches the resolution to 1080p and pops the signal onto the Pioneer no problem. When the RUIPRO is plugged in, it keeps trying to lock onto the JVC (which is OFF), cycling from no signal to HDMI-2 back and forth, causing the Pioneer to lock on and off at the same frequency. I tried a remote controlled HDMI switcher but it had auto sense and kept switching off and on too. The electronics in the RUIPRO are pulling power from somewhere even though the JVC is powered down.

Anthem confirmed that HDMI-1 and 2 are always active. This is a fatal flaw for my setup. On my old Denon 5308 (no obsolete with no ATMOS), each input could pick which HDMI out it used. My inputs on the Anthem are currently set up as Oppo Pioneer, Oppo JVC, Apple Pioneer, Apple JVC, and Oppo Music for analog two channel listening. If I could just assign HDMI-2 to the inputs for watching the JVC, my issue would be solved.

I am pretty aggravated at Anthem that at this price point I can't assign the HDMI-OUT to a specific display device. I am super frustrated at this point thinking I am going to have to abandon the Anthem altogether. It's a bummer because I think the sound is superb.

If anyone can offer any suggestions to how I can get this to work I would be in your debt. My anthem is rack mounted and going in between cabinets. I can't be pulling the rack out and plugging and unplugging HDMI cables every time I want to watch a movie on the JVC.
Yea, I am currently running my anthem to two projectors.

The problem here is that your source device is trying to output 4k to your pioneer, which is only able to accept 1080p. Most likely the JVC, even when powered off, is still allowing an EDID to be retrieved by the source advertising 4K capabilities. You might try some of the following things:

1) Always set your source back to 1080p before turning off the JVC. This should allow it to show up on the pioneer
2) Consider ditching using the dual outputs and instead use an HDMI splitter. The rocketfish at best buy works great https://www.bestbuy.com/site/rocketf...?skuId=5986903. This $70 device can be set to provide its own EDID or pass through the connected display. You'd feed the anthem into this then the two outputs to your two displays.

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #5725 of 8310 Old 07-12-2018, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
If you are going to use a separate Sub EQ system, do that FIRST and then run your ARC setup. For ARC to create the proper blending between Sub and main speakers it must measure the actual output of the Sub, including any external correction being applied to the Sub.
—Bob

i dont understand it , how i must start ?
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post #5726 of 8310 Old 07-12-2018, 12:36 PM
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i dont understand it , how i must start ?
1. Behringer EQ
2. ARC

Speakers: Fronts: Triton One | Center: Supercenter XL | Surrounds: SuperSat 50 | Rear Surrounds: Invisa HTR 7000 | Atmos: 4x Invisa 650
Receiver: Anthem MRX 1120 | Electronics: XBOX One X, PS4 Pro, Roku Ultra, Chromecast Ultra | Power Management: Panamax M5400-PM
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post #5727 of 8310 Old 07-12-2018, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by KKK101 View Post
i dont understand it , how i must start ?


As above, you need to use your sub controls to adjust whatever you can (decrease gain at room modes,...). Just like you I had a very strong room mode, that ARC couldn’t deal with, so I used my sub’s parametric EQ to chop it off.
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post #5728 of 8310 Old 07-12-2018, 05:59 PM
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Hi Bob, yes the level adjustments ARC set are still in effect when you turn ARC off. So when ARC is off you get the level adjustment increase as well as any increase from the ARC EQ-ing being off so it should be louder when ARC is off.

It looks like your levels are very high and you said your room is small which should mean low levels not high levels to achieve 75dB. 75dB should be easier to achieve in a small room, which should result in lower levels. unless your speakers aren't very efficient. What speakers do you have and when you ran ARC where was the first mic position? Was it at ear level or front main speaker tweeter level? I'm asking because ARC sets the levels based on the first mic position .


BTW here's some light reading on ARC https://hometheaterhifi.com/technica...-optimization/
My speakers, main B&W CDM 9NT's (Nautilus 804's) Center B&W HTM-2, surrounds Klipsch multi directional surrounds.

Position 1 was the tripod on the couch at ear level which is right at main tweeter level. The couch is a fabric pillow type so it could suck up the sound with the mic only a foot from the high back cushion.

thx

bob

ps: good to know position 1 is the reference for volume
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post #5729 of 8310 Old 07-12-2018, 06:04 PM
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Thank you! Ill email Play-Fi. I figured I'd ask here first, with Play Fi being 2nd.
My connection is the NAS ethered to the Orbi, then the MRX is connected by Wi-Fi. I wish I would logistically wire the MRX straight to the router, but kinda hard to do.
Yes, when I play a 192/24 in Critical Mode, it stutters/skips. 96/24 works great. If i dont run critical mode, the 192/24 getting downsized works fine. But, I'd like to enjoy the files in their proper form.
Thank you for the help!
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Originally Posted by rondongon View Post
Just a silly suggestion, do you have the MRX antennas installed and MRX connected to a 5Ghz network? In theory, you should still be able to stream 10Mbps wo a glitch if both MRX and mobile device are on a 5Ghz 802.11n or 802.11ac network and assuming both devices have a strong signal.

Use the Netgear app and check the signal strength and the bandwidth for both MRX and PlayFi mobile device, just to rule out any WiFi issues. If signal strength is like 100% and link rate > many hundred of Mbps, at least you know that your wireless medium and attached devices (MRX and PlayFi device) are ok. But that does not necessarily mean that the wireless medium and environment isn’t the culprit. For more easy reading on WiFi check https://play-fi.com/downloads/Wi-Fi-...y-Glossary.pdf (WiFi Analyzer is handy if you have an Android device)

You have to isolate the different elements (NAS, MRX, PlayFi, WiFi,...) in your setup to figure out the culprit and not an easy task, GL!
Hi! Quick update, and thank you for all the suggestions! I saw that my MRX was only connected at like 50mbs to my router, while everything else was 100+. So, I had a extra router laying around, so I set it up as a bridge on 5ghz, and ran the MRX through that. Now the MRX is connected at 800mbs+ and streams the hi res flawlessly!
So, thank you again for all the help!
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Anthem mrx-720, Sunfire Cinema Grand 400-7, GoldenEar Aon 3 L-R, GoldenEar SuperSat3 Surround, Paradigm Millenia 20 Center, Intimus L6-IC Height, SVS PB-1000 sub, atmos 5.1.4
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post #5730 of 8310 Old 07-12-2018, 10:56 PM
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Is there some command to get the full audio input details? The info option doesn't show any more than the front panel. I cant even see how many channels etc? So if I'm using some gxx awful device like an Apple TV I just see multi pcm.
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