Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers - Page 206 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6151 of 8427 Old 09-30-2018, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swatdude1 View Post
The concern is using the variable L/R output on the Anthem to feed the crossover since I think that is always active and can't be disabled specific to an input.
When the 720 runs any sources through bass management, there will be no bass from the main outputs, just the redirected bass + LFE through the Sub out.

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I just did a search and audiophile grade low pass filters are scarce.
I use a MiniDSP for 2-ch bass processing. It works great, and there's lots of filtering and EQ flexibility. Ideally they would have a 4-in 4-out unit, but alas not.

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As far as the splitter, would the 2 female to one male BlueJeansCable work fine?
Only if you added series resistors in line with each input. Then it would be fine.

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post #6152 of 8427 Old 10-01-2018, 12:23 PM
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Hello all, proud to be part of the Anthem owners group!
Yesterday I ran into a setup question I was hoping I could get some help with.

I have the 1120 with the projector on HDMI Out 1 and the TV connected to HDMI Out 2. Sources Input 1 Odroid C2, Input 2 satellite receiver and Input 3 PS3.
I was testing with Input 2

What I am trying to get is the video and audio to the TV (on board speakers) without audio to the theater speakers
At the moment I was able to do it with the Standby HDMI Bypass enabled to Last Input but that seams very kludgy and the harmony remote won't let me program an off command in the start up sequence.
I also need to be able to change the input to 1, 2 or 3 as needed

Hope that explains it ok
Any recommendations?

One day I will start the new theater....... one day..... THAT DAY HAS ARRIVED
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Last edited by Waterboy77; 10-01-2018 at 12:39 PM. Reason: multiple sources add
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post #6153 of 8427 Old 10-01-2018, 10:22 PM
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Sony 4K player not likin Anthem?

I just did a firmware update on my Sony UBP-X800 4k blu ray player and now it will not work when connected to my Anthem MRX 720. It does work when connected directly to the display, taking the Anthem out of the chain. As a result Sony says the issue isn’t the player.
Has anyone any idea as to what to suggest?

Thanks in advance.

JVC DLA-X750R projector, Panasonic DP-UB820 4k Bluray player, Anthem MRX-720 receiver, 5.1.4 Atmos, Klipsch Reference II Speakers, Dual Sealed 18” UXL Subwoofers - Inuke 6000dsp Sub amp, Buttkicker LFE, Vizio P-65 TV.
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post #6154 of 8427 Old 10-01-2018, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post
When the 720 runs any sources through bass management, there will be no bass from the main outputs, just the redirected bass + LFE through the Sub out.

I use a MiniDSP for 2-ch bass processing. It works great, and there's lots of filtering and EQ flexibility. Ideally they would have a 4-in 4-out unit, but alas not.

Only if you added series resistors in line with each input. Then it would be fine.
Roger, I so appreciate your help on this. I just got sick to my stomach when I thought I had spent all that money on the 205 for nothing. I just checked out the 2.1 info for the MiniDSP... pretty slick.

However, my background is mechanical engineering and I barely made it through the required EE classes. You lost me with the resistor comment. Is there a different splitter actually made for two signals into one which is just plug and play? Also, would you know how I find the crossover and slope my ARC setup determined for my sub?
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post #6155 of 8427 Old 10-02-2018, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swatdude1 View Post
Roger, I so appreciate your help on this. I just got sick to my stomach when I thought I had spent all that money on the 205 for nothing. I just checked out the 2.1 info for the MiniDSP... pretty slick.

However, my background is mechanical engineering and I barely made it through the required EE classes. You lost me with the resistor comment. Is there a different splitter actually made for two signals into one which is just plug and play?
Take a look at this post. Soldering is mechanical, not electrical, so you should be right at home.

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Also, would you know how I find the crossover and slope my ARC setup determined for my sub?
For the crossover frequencies below which each main speaker's bass is redirected to the sub, look in the ARC program Target page after the calculations are done. They label it "Equalization Cutoffs." I think that is what you are asking.

ARC uses 4th-order crossovers for bass management.

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post #6156 of 8427 Old 10-02-2018, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterboy77 View Post
I have the 1120 with the projector on HDMI Out 1 and the TV connected to HDMI Out 2. Sources Input 1 Odroid C2, Input 2 satellite receiver and Input 3 PS3.
I was testing with Input 2

What I am trying to get is the video and audio to the TV (on board speakers) without audio to the theater speakers
At the moment I was able to do it with the Standby HDMI Bypass enabled to Last Input but that seams very kludgy and the harmony remote won't let me program an off command in the start up sequence.
I also need to be able to change the input to 1, 2 or 3 as needed
Update to my previous post.....
Anthems wonderful technical support responded to me and provided the following explanation...... hope it helps some one else.

"With our current MRX x20 and AVM 60 models the audio is only sent out via the HDMI outputs when the main zone is off and you’ve enabled Standby HDMI bypass in the general configuration menu.So if the main zone is turned on, then it will stop sending the audio out both the HDMI output 1 & 2."

"The zone 2 is limited to just audio, the unit does not support separate video for Zone 2. You could run separate audio the the second display via the RCA preouts of the MRX 1120 itself, this would send 2 channel content to that location."

To get it working for my use I have created a harmony remote sequence that turns on the main, sets it to the input I want, turns on the input device, then turns the main off.
Thanks to friends wisdom I tricked the harmony by "fixing" a unused command to be the off command, I used the number 9. This got an off signal in the start sequence that harmony does not normally have available.
There is a lot of clicking and on/off going on but it gets me where I need to be till a better solution presents itself.... maybe speakers for the TV.... new project lol

Hope that makes sense.

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post #6157 of 8427 Old 10-03-2018, 08:32 PM
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Roger already stated this but I did confirm today with Anthem that the use of a high-end DAC with the Anthem, without full range front speakers, is pretty useless. All the DSP is done in the digital domain and the sound will only be as good as the Anthem DACs. With that said, I guess this is common to every new receiver out there now.
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post #6158 of 8427 Old 10-04-2018, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swatdude1 View Post
Roger already stated this but I did confirm today with Anthem that the use of a high-end DAC with the Anthem, without full range front speakers, is pretty useless. All the DSP is done in the digital domain and the sound will only be as good as the Anthem DACs. With that said, I guess this is common to every new receiver out there now.
There is a solution. You can run speaker wire from the L/R Front speaker terminals on the Anthem to Speaker Line Inputs on your subwoofer (if it has them) You then need to set the crossover on the subwoofer to say 80HZ. You then need to recalibrate ARC because doing it this way will bring the sub into play with the front speaker.s ARC needs to adjust the low end of the front for this.

I did it this way with my Velodyne DD-15 and set up 2 Presets. One when listening to Music via the 205 with the 80HZ Crossover and lower volume setting and one for everything else with no crossover set in the Velodyne - ARC is doing all the work based on what I recalibrated with the sub now involved with the fronts.

In all honesty, I can't tell the difference between using it with the process analog input on and doing this way. To me, both ways sound a bit more engaging and less congested than sending music from my Mac Mini via USB to SPDIF Converter to the Anthem's digital input.
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post #6159 of 8427 Old 10-05-2018, 07:14 PM
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Sporadic shutdown!

My MRX720 shutdown by itself few times this week, once was listening to very low level music (-45dB), other time was watching a movie. In neither occurrence was there an overload msg. Just wondering if other HDMI CEC enabled equipment could without user request shutdown other equipment.

Anthem weren’t much of help, saying to take the unit to my dealer and have them reproduce the issue before sending it on.
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post #6160 of 8427 Old 10-05-2018, 08:29 PM
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Curious. Haven't seen a shutdown but did get random input change caused by a Roku telling the AVM 60 to do so. A CEC filter fixed that.

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post #6161 of 8427 Old 10-06-2018, 03:53 AM
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This happened to me once on the very beginning and it didn't occur again since then.
I'm not using remote at all - mobile application works great.

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Originally Posted by Delija View Post
Second day of owning and I've already had to pull the power cord - it got stuck/frozen.

I fell a sleep listening to the music and when I woke up I've tried to lower the volume on mobile application (I was using it for couple of hours without problems) - it wasn't working. But, remote control and all buttons on AVR were also not working. Completely stuck/frozen.

Not a great way to start...
I had Yamaha AVRs for more than 15 years and not even one issue.

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post #6162 of 8427 Old 10-06-2018, 05:11 AM
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Curious. Haven't seen a shutdown but did get random input change caused by a Roku telling the AVM 60 to do so. A CEC filter fixed that.
Yeah, I recall you having that issue and I had that too in the past, disabling CEC usually helps, but I’ve seen that even if I disable CEC in MRX for turning on/off, then unplug all equipment, sometimes either end of the chain does turn on or off occasionally when I power On or Off either equipment. I only leave the CEC option enabled for ARC, and disable the other two, but somehow it still happens. Hence why I thought the sporadic shutdowns may be caused by the TV over HDMI...
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post #6163 of 8427 Old 10-06-2018, 06:23 AM
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^ If you are using a programmable remote, such as Harmony, this can also be due to incorrect setup of that remote. For example, it could be sending PowerToggle to the Anthem in the mistaken belief that’s actually PowerOn.

To test, try using only the regular remotes for everything for a while.
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post #6164 of 8427 Old 10-06-2018, 08:26 AM
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^Bob, my experience may be a bit different.

My scenario:
1) Turn on the TV.
2) Change immediately to my blu ray player or HTPC input.

The result was unpredictable. About half the time, there'd be a behind the scenes switch to Roku because of CEC data it was passing. Playing with timing delays in the remote didn't work. Eventually I gave up and installed a Lindey CEC filter between the Roku and AVM 60. It prevents CEC data from being passed, and in my system, it solve the problem. YMMV as always.


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post #6165 of 8427 Old 10-06-2018, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
^ If you are using a programmable remote, such as Harmony, this can also be due to incorrect setup of that remote. For example, it could be sending PowerToggle to the Anthem in the mistaken belief that’s actually PowerOn.

To test, try using only the regular remotes for everything for a while.
—Bob
I am not using any programmable remote, but it’s all pointing to my LG Tv acting crazy before it died, and maybe it was being nutso over HDMI... I’ve quarantineed the LG now (disconnected), and using the MRX for music, so far it’s been playing for four hours.
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post #6166 of 8427 Old 10-06-2018, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill-99 View Post
^Bob, my experience may be a bit different.

My scenario:
1) Turn on the TV.
2) Change immediately to my blu ray player or HTPC input.

The result was unpredictable. About half the time, there'd be a behind the scenes switch to Roku because of CEC data it was passing. Playing with timing delays in the remote didn't work. Eventually I gave up and installed a Lindey CEC filter between the Roku and AVM 60. It prevents CEC data from being passed, and in my system, it solve the problem. YMMV as always.
The Roku takes a LONG time to boot, and tries to seize the attention of the rest of your system after it finishes booting. That's likely why your experience with it was so annoying.
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post #6167 of 8427 Old 10-06-2018, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by rondongon View Post
I am not using any programmable remote, but it’s all pointing to my LG Tv acting crazy before it died, and maybe it was being nutso over HDMI... I’ve quarantineed the LG now (disconnected), and using the MRX for music, so far it’s been playing for four hours.
The LG tries to use HDMI CEC to establish ARC audio output (audio sent back out from the TV on the HDMI cable normally used to feed video to the TV). It also senses new devices as the come live on its inputs.

So it is definitely twiddling its HDMI CEC thumbs. It could be the settings in the LG (such as enabling ARC output), or it could be the TV failing as you suggested.
--Bob
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post #6168 of 8427 Old 10-06-2018, 10:28 AM
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The Roku takes a LONG time to boot, and tries to seize the attention of the rest of your system after it finishes booting. That's likely why your experience with it was so annoying.
--Bob
The Roku boot process is kind of a mystery to me. In my HT, the AVM 60 starts in warm standby but the Roku is always on... just kind of hanging out sipping electricity. It's almost like the Roku detects that the AVM 60 has been turned on and starts shrieking "Hey! I'm here! Pay attention to me! I'm the center of this HT universe! Here's some CEC data to prove it!" But whatever.

And yeah, pretty annoying!


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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
The LG tries to use HDMI CEC to establish ARC audio output (audio sent back out from the TV on the HDMI cable normally used to feed video to the TV). It also senses new devices as the come live on its inputs.

So it is definitely twiddling its HDMI CEC thumbs. It could be the settings in the LG (such as enabling ARC output), or it could be the TV failing as you suggested.
--Bob

This HDMI CEC is a can of worms, yes I use ARC, but I have disabled both CEC power control on/off in MRX menu, unplugged unit and HDMI cable, and sometimes the LG still manages to turn on the MRX, or the MRX manages to turn on the LG, like once ... very bizarre.


I can't recall if DD+ is supported over optical connection, but if not maybe I'll ditch ARC and wire an optical cable. I only use audio out of my TV for OTA TV local news... I've checked the Lindy ARC filter and it does not allow ARC as it disables CEC control.
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post #6170 of 8427 Old 10-06-2018, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rondongon View Post
This HDMI CEC is a can of worms, yes I use ARC, but I have disabled both CEC power control on/off in MRX menu, unplugged unit and HDMI cable, and sometimes the LG still manages to turn on the MRX, or the MRX manages to turn on the LG, like once ... very bizarre.


I can't recall if DD+ is supported over optical connection, but if not maybe I'll ditch ARC and wire an optical cable. I only use audio out of my TV for OTA TV local news... I've checked the Lindy ARC filter and it does not allow ARC as it disables CEC control.
Good call, rondongon, I completely missed the "ARC requires CEC" aspect of this. I also use OTA TV but my TV is Samsung and luckily doesn't have this issue.


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post #6171 of 8427 Old 10-08-2018, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
From the MRX or AVM go to: Setup Menu >> Level Calibration At the top of the menu is the "Dolby Offset/Calibration Level". I've never changed it but I know it works for the test tones so it may work for the ARC tones as well. Try changing it for a given profile and then run ARC and look in the target window for that profile's level tab and see if the Calibration Level is higher than 0.


Also since it's just a test to see if it works just run ARC for the minimum number of speakers which is the two fronts. That way you don't waste you time. Then if it works you can run it for real.

Way too late in responding to this, but I just tried this, I set the Dolby Offset to -10 for the first config and all speaker levels I also set to 0 (though not sure if the later matters), and running Arc after, it set the trims to more reasonable levels (comparable to what I had with the other receivers), i.e. around -2 to +2, instead of +10 etc like it did before.

Though there was also a newer version of Arc that I updated to, but really not sure if that had to do anything with this.
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post #6172 of 8427 Old 10-08-2018, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by PGriff1051 View Post
There is a solution. You can run speaker wire from the L/R Front speaker terminals on the Anthem to Speaker Line Inputs on your subwoofer (if it has them) You then need to set the crossover on the subwoofer to say 80HZ. You then need to recalibrate ARC because doing it this way will bring the sub into play with the front speaker.s ARC needs to adjust the low end of the front for this.

I did it this way with my Velodyne DD-15 and set up 2 Presets. One when listening to Music via the 205 with the 80HZ Crossover and lower volume setting and one for everything else with no crossover set in the Velodyne - ARC is doing all the work based on what I recalibrated with the sub now involved with the fronts.

In all honesty, I can't tell the difference between using it with the process analog input on and doing this way. To me, both ways sound a bit more engaging and less congested than sending music from my Mac Mini via USB to SPDIF Converter to the Anthem's digital input.

So I bought the MINIDSP and mic, and I bought the EDCOR SM2 because I didn't want to solder. Should have it all in two weeks and will let you know how it sounds.

Last edited by Swatdude1; 10-16-2018 at 01:05 PM.
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post #6173 of 8427 Old 10-09-2018, 12:16 PM
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So I bought the MINIDSP and mic, and I bought the EDCOR SM2 because I didn't want. Should have it all in two weeks and will let you know how it sounds.
Please do. I was thinking of doing something similar but added more cables and devices between the equipment seemed like the point where diminishing marginal returns starts to become negative - like cramming 500 manufacturing people on a manufacturing floor built for 400 people.
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Switching from a mrx 300 to 720 in a few weeks. I’m going to run a 7.2.4 setup. Does the Atmos speakers need to be connected all to an external amp or can you use internal? My front 3 speakers are amped already and I believe I need to amp another 2 channels but sure curious on how the internal amp works with adding in the Atmos
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post #6175 of 8427 Old 10-11-2018, 06:07 AM
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Switching from a mrx 300 to 720 in a few weeks. I’m going to run a 7.2.4 setup. Does the Atmos speakers need to be connected all to an external amp or can you use internal? My front 3 speakers are amped already and I believe I need to amp another 2 channels but sure curious on how the internal amp works with adding in the Atmos
In the 720, with 7 ear-level speakers, you will need to use the pre-amp outs for your 4 height speakers, which means you will need amplification for all 4 of those.

If you'd prefer to use the internal amp in the Anthem, you might want to look at the 1120 instead of the 720.
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In the 720, with 7 ear-level speakers, you will need to use the pre-amp outs for your 4 height speakers, which means you will need amplification for all 4 of those.

If you'd prefer to use the internal amp in the Anthem, you might want to look at the 1120 instead of the 720.
--Bob
I had a feeling that was the case.. I guess I’ll need to keep an eye out for a cheap 4 channel amp and keep that under the table from the wife lol thanks!
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post #6177 of 8427 Old 10-11-2018, 11:30 AM
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I had a feeling that was the case.. I guess I’ll need to keep an eye out for a cheap 4 channel amp and keep that under the table from the wife lol thanks!
My other option is do a 5.1.2 setup and leave 7.1.4 for down the road. Just not sure if 5.1.2 would be better then 7.1 right now
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post #6178 of 8427 Old 10-11-2018, 05:35 PM
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Has anyone had an issue with ARC when enabled introduces distortion? I thought I had a blown midrange, there is a strange noise that sounds like break up but it is only on the right channel. If it swap the speaker main outs, the noise appears on the left so it is not my speakers thankfully. It goes away when ARC is disabled. I tried different input sources and uploading a different measurement and same results. Also reoccurs after a reset of the unit.
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post #6179 of 8427 Old 10-11-2018, 05:39 PM
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Do you see any unexpected curve pattern on the ARC panel?

Could it be some noise impacting the calibration process?

You may rerun the ARC and try again.
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Originally Posted by eyecatcher127 View Post
Has anyone had an issue with ARC when enabled introduces distortion? I thought I had a blown midrange, there is a strange noise that sounds like break up but it is only on the right channel. If it swap the speaker main outs, the noise appears on the left so it is not my speakers thankfully. It goes away when ARC is disabled. I tried different input sources and uploading a different measurement and same results. Also reoccurs after a reset of the unit.
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post #6180 of 8427 Old 10-11-2018, 05:39 PM
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My other option is do a 5.1.2 setup and leave 7.1.4 for down the road. Just not sure if 5.1.2 would be better then 7.1 right now
Being fully surrounded with 7.x.4 is much better than 5.x.2 if you have the space and budget. A 50wpc amp for the height speakers will work great so I'd get two of these. https://www.amazon.com/OSD-Audio-XMP...5%3A2470955011 They are stereo amps and are 50 wpc with 8 ohms speakers and you can run the trigger wire and they will turn on/off with the MRX 720. A pair will run you about $200.

"What do you mean it's too loud? My ears aren't even bleeding yet!"
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Last edited by Legairre; 10-11-2018 at 05:49 PM.
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