Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers - Page 213 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6361 of 8421 Old 12-14-2018, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by irwando View Post
Hi all,


Just hooked up a new MRX 720 last night! Ran my first ARC measurements (5 points along the couch) and watched a few demo scenes - everything seemed to be working well! I'm trying to make my way though the owners thread here but am hoping someone can answer a few questions to for me:


  • Power Cord -I was surprised to find a 2 prong cord with no ground and the seperate grounding screw. Any best practices here I should be aware of? Every other receiver I've owned had the 3 prong plug. I'm looking for a longer power cord and having trouble finding one with two prongs - guessing I can use a 3 prong without issue and the ground just won't hook to anything?
  • ARC - I see it goes up to 9 points. I did 5 points - one measure for each seating position on my couch. Is it also recommended to do some forward/behind the seating positions? Above/below? I looked for a general guide on where to take measurements but didn't find much.
  • ARC - I went with whatever the software came up with by itself but noticed that I could mark some speakers full range. My mains are Paradigm 85Fs which I typically input as Large / full range. Should I do that or leave it as ARC caluclated? Again, any documentation on best practices here?
  • Harmony Remote - Using a Harmony Remote to control everything. I'm noticing in many cases the receiver is getting double button taps. For example I tap volume up and it goes up two spots instead of one. Some other buttons are unusable because of this. has anyone used a Harmony remote with this unit?
Thanks in advance!
I had the double tap problem when my AVM 60 was receiving the signal twice via 2 different pathways. In my case I used a hardwired IR cable to the AVM 60 as it was in a cabinet and the Harmony Hub was in a different bay. It worked fine as long as all the doors were closed, but if I left the doors to the 2 bays open the AVM 60 got the IR from the wire and through space and every click registered twice. Make sure there are not 2 different pathways for the IR to get there.

SONY VPL-VW385ES, Da-Lite 92" 0.9 HD progressive 16x9 screen, Apple TV 4K, HDFury Integral 2, Oppo UDP 203, Panasonic DP-UB820, Anthem AVM 60, D-Sonic 4000 (800x3, 400x4) for bed layer, 2 Crown XLS 1002 (225x4) for Atmos; Speakers: Polk LSiM 705s, 703 front, 4 702F/X surround, 4 Polk TL3 (Atmos), Dual Velodyne DD15 Subwoofers.
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post #6362 of 8421 Old 12-14-2018, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by shs1234 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by irwando View Post
Hi all,


Just hooked up a new MRX 720 last night! Ran my first ARC measurements (5 points along the couch) and watched a few demo scenes - everything seemed to be working well! I'm trying to make my way though the owners thread here but am hoping someone can answer a few questions to for me:


  • Power Cord -I was surprised to find a 2 prong cord with no ground and the seperate grounding screw. Any best practices here I should be aware of? Every other receiver I've owned had the 3 prong plug. I'm looking for a longer power cord and having trouble finding one with two prongs - guessing I can use a 3 prong without issue and the ground just won't hook to anything?
  • ARC - I see it goes up to 9 points. I did 5 points - one measure for each seating position on my couch. Is it also recommended to do some forward/behind the seating positions? Above/below? I looked for a general guide on where to take measurements but didn't find much.
  • ARC - I went with whatever the software came up with by itself but noticed that I could mark some speakers full range. My mains are Paradigm 85Fs which I typically input as Large / full range. Should I do that or leave it as ARC caluclated? Again, any documentation on best practices here?
  • Harmony Remote - Using a Harmony Remote to control everything. I'm noticing in many cases the receiver is getting double button taps. For example I tap volume up and it goes up two spots instead of one. Some other buttons are unusable because of this. has anyone used a Harmony remote with this unit?
Thanks in advance!
I had the double tap problem when my AVM 60 was receiving the signal twice via 2 different pathways. In my case I used a hardwired IR cable to the AVM 60 as it was in a cabinet and the Harmony Hub was in a different bay. It worked fine as long as all the doors were closed, but if I left the doors to the 2 bays open the AVM 60 got the IR from the wire and through space and every click registered twice. Make sure there are not 2 different pathways for the IR to get there.
Cable: any is fine. Sure use a 3 prong

Position: I image unless you like listening to music hanging from the ceiling, then keep the mics at ear level. 5 positions should be plenty, but I admit I don’t know for sure.

Customization: when you say documentation, yes there is documentation. The manual says leave it alone. I wasn’t satisfied with that either, as I’ve been running all sorts of paradigms full range since I was 15. What I did was made 3 additional profiles (this is possible on the anthem, but you must configure this In the program before you upload to the anthem. If you need help, I can walk your through it. Basically, I left default as is. The other 3 are lite mod, heavy mod and full range. I basically only slightly adjusted the default settings and labeled them lite mod. In other words, I moved the crossovers for the front speakers and sub about 20HZ. for full range, I ran the paradigms full range. I then switched back and forth for weeks. Amazingly enough, the engineers are correct. The best bass for the system happens to be the default. It doesn’t make sense to me, as I went in competely biased AGAINST the default settings. I mean, what kinda of person sets paradigm floor stander HPFs at 120hz?! I currently have it set at “lite mod.”

Harmony: on your phone go to edit device, anthem and then command repeats. Adjust until it works. Mine is at “1”
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post #6363 of 8421 Old 12-14-2018, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shs1234 View Post
I had the double tap problem when my AVM 60 was receiving the signal twice via 2 different pathways. In my case I used a hardwired IR cable to the AVM 60 as it was in a cabinet and the Harmony Hub was in a different bay. It worked fine as long as all the doors were closed, but if I left the doors to the 2 bays open the AVM 60 got the IR from the wire and through space and every click registered twice. Make sure there are not 2 different pathways for the IR to get there.

That was it, thanks so much!
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post #6364 of 8421 Old 12-15-2018, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irwando View Post
  • ARC - I see it goes up to 9 points. I did 5 points - one measure for each seating position on my couch. Is it also recommended to do some forward/behind the seating positions? Above/below? I looked for a general guide on where to take measurements but didn't find much.
  • ARC - I went with whatever the software came up with by itself but noticed that I could mark some speakers full range. My mains are Paradigm 85Fs which I typically input as Large / full range. Should I do that or leave it as ARC caluclated? Again, any documentation on best practices here?
5 is fine, but experiment with more if you'd like. Give at least two feet of separation between each position and yes, I'd experiment with forward and rearward of the MLP too, not just linear along your couch.

Again, experiment with ARC. I'm pretty pleased though where ARC has my speakers set, including the 85Fs. I experimented down to 60Hz from the 80Hz ARC set, and it just was better at 80Hz. YMMV!

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #6365 of 8421 Old 12-15-2018, 07:15 PM
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Nothing checks the boxes for me like the Anthem 1120. Fear of buyer's remorse if I pull the trigger and they release a new model later in 2019. Hmmm
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post #6366 of 8421 Old 12-15-2018, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Guy Burroughs View Post
Nothing checks the boxes for me like the Anthem 1120. Fear of buyer's remorse if I pull the trigger and they release a new model later in 2019. Hmmm
Well, sure, that's a possibility. Also possible they release nothing in 2019 and you spend the year without an AVR! I know what you mean, and I know how you feel.

I don't know if Anthem appears at CES, but that 's coming up - January I think. Maybe somebody else can provide better insight, but you could at least wait until after CES to see if anything shows up or gets announced...
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7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #6367 of 8421 Old 12-16-2018, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Guy Burroughs View Post
Nothing checks the boxes for me like the Anthem 1120. Fear of buyer's remorse if I pull the trigger and they release a new model later in 2019. Hmmm
I love my MRX-1120, but I've had it since early March 2016, so it has been around for a while (2.5 years for me already). I keep wondering when it will be replaced by a different model, but at the same time, I don't know if I really care. I don't have room to add any more speakers beyond 11 (plus 2 subs), so if they came out with a 9.x.4 or 7.x.6 or some other configuration that allowed for 2 more speakers (or more), I can't use that in my current space anyway. Maybe more power? The 1120 meets my needs there too.

So depending on what you think that the next version would have, and if that is important to you, buying now vs waiting really may not be a big deal.
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post #6368 of 8421 Old 12-16-2018, 05:01 PM
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So depending on what you think that the next version would have, and if that is important to you, buying now vs waiting really may not be a big deal.

Yeah, if I had to guess, they might throw in another speaker pair, possibly ARC for independent subs (like in the STR I believe....), but probably waiting until the next HDMI standard picks up more steam....??

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #6369 of 8421 Old 12-17-2018, 06:39 AM
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Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers

The past month when I turn on my MRX-720 (input Cable TV), I get a picture for about 5 seconds and then “snow” (pic below) so I have to change to a different input and then back to the previous for the picture to stay. This happens even if the cable box/TV has been on for a while and the 720 has been off. Suggestions?


Panasonic P60VT60 Calibrated by Chad B
Anthem MRX-720, Oppo UDP-205, Bluesound Node 2i, Focal Aria 936/CC900
MacBook Pro, AppleTV 3 & 4K, Sony PS4 Pro

Last edited by mbroadus; 12-17-2018 at 06:44 AM.
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post #6370 of 8421 Old 12-17-2018, 08:48 AM
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^ If you are turning on the TV at the same time, you may not have allowed enough time for the TV to wake up enough to do its part of the HDMI handshake. (Forcing a new handshake would cure this as you report.)

Test by turning on the TV, wait until it is fully booted, then turn on the Anthem.

The source device (the Comcast in this case) controls the handshake. And since it is already powered up, it may very well be trying to establish the end to end connection through to the TV before the TV has had its first cup of coffee.
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post #6371 of 8421 Old 12-17-2018, 09:22 AM
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Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
^ If you are turning on the TV at the same time, you may not have allowed enough time for the TV to wake up enough to do its part of the HDMI handshake. (Forcing a new handshake would cure this as you report.)

Test by turning on the TV, wait until it is fully booted, then turn on the Anthem.

The source device (the Comcast in this case) controls the handshake. And since it is already powered up, it may very well be trying to establish the end to end connection through to the TV before the TV has had its first cup of coffee.

--Bob

Thanks, this is what I thought but it’s only began doing this recently, didn’t have a problem before a month ago. It does this even if I’ve had the Comcast box and tv on for several hours before turning on the Anthem.


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Panasonic P60VT60 Calibrated by Chad B
Anthem MRX-720, Oppo UDP-205, Bluesound Node 2i, Focal Aria 936/CC900
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post #6372 of 8421 Old 12-17-2018, 01:15 PM
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Thanks, this is what I thought but it’s only began doing this recently, didn’t have a problem before a month ago. It does this even if I’ve had the Comcast box and tv on for several hours before turning on the Anthem.


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Another possibility is that HDMI CEC (commands from the TV) are getting in the way -- unexpectedly switching the Anthem to a different input. That too would be fixed by toggling the input away and back again. The usual culprit here is a setting in the TV for HDMI ARC (audio sent back out of the TV on its input HDMI cable).
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post #6373 of 8421 Old 12-17-2018, 09:12 PM
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I’m in the market for a new AVR for living/great room. 30’ ceilings, wide open to kitchen, dining, foyer and back hallway to bedrooms.

This is the primary TV room in the center of the home and where we entertain although not for critical movie watching as we do have a dedicated media room and projector.

The living room system is currently a 75” Sony and a Marantz 6012 on its last legs due to some failed HDMI ports, a handful of sources (PS4, ATV4K, Oppo UHD BRD, Directv) and the audio is only a B&W 3.1 on-wall setup.

I’m feeling burned by Marantz as this is third Marantz piece that has failed me in past 6 years, 8801, 6011, and now a 6012, plus I’ve never been dazzled by Audssey and interested in ARC and Dirac

I also want as good of sound as possible even though it’s only 3.1 and my three speakers are low-end limited with largest driver being a 5” mid.

So I’m considering the Anthem 720 and or NAD 777v3.

Like so much in this hobby, value and cost are subjective and wondering if I’m crazy considering such expensive AVRs for a simple 3.1 4K system just to get to try ARC or Dirac.

Does anyone else use the 720 with so few channels, and does ARC help with your room?


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post #6374 of 8421 Old 12-18-2018, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by gdfein View Post
I’m in the market for a new AVR for living/great room. 30’ ceilings, wide open to kitchen, dining, foyer and back hallway to bedrooms.

This is the primary TV room in the center of the home and where we entertain although not for critical movie watching as we do have a dedicated media room and projector.

The living room system is currently a 75” Sony and a Marantz 6012 on its last legs due to some failed HDMI ports, a handful of sources (PS4, ATV4K, Oppo UHD BRD, Directv) and the audio is only a B&W 3.1 on-wall setup.

I’m feeling burned by Marantz as this is third Marantz piece that has failed me in past 6 years, 8801, 6011, and now a 6012, plus I’ve never been dazzled by Audssey and interested in ARC and Dirac

I also want as good of sound as possible even though it’s only 3.1 and my three speakers are low-end limited with largest driver being a 5” mid.

So I’m considering the Anthem 720 and or NAD 777v3.

Like so much in this hobby, value and cost are subjective and wondering if I’m crazy considering such expensive AVRs for a simple 3.1 4K system just to get to try ARC or Dirac.

Does anyone else use the 720 with so few channels, and does ARC help with your room?


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For a simple 3.1, why not just use the MRX-520. It's 5.1 only and a much cheaper solution than the 720. Don't be fooled by 100 wpc/2 channel only, that's fairy conservative power number. One note is that there is no wi-fi, which I view as a good thing. No cooling fan, also a good thing. It's just a basic, very good sounding AVR.

Full Disclosure: I've had trouble and another guy did back in this forum too, with down mixing dolby sources to 2.0 in my case and 3.1 in his. Volume seemed muted, still sounded good, but where I'd normally listen to the volume at around -35-30 db, I had to go to -20 or a bit lower. I found (and told the other guy) that switching from the Anthem decoding to the Oppo 203 decoding and sending PCM solved the problem. I don't know if this was an oppo thing or not. DTS-MA, did not exhibit this behavior and volume levels where the same regardless of player or anthem decoding. So Oppo decoding is my default setting now. Dynamic Range to off.

All in all anthem is a great sounding AVR, I'm just a bit disappointed that it apparently didn't decode and down mix some dolby sources properly. It also has some problems with decoding the cable box dolby feed too, but I've work arounds for that too. Anthem wouldn't admit anything except to say their certification was obviously superior to that of Oppo Digital. For music, the AVR sounds fantastic, which tends to be my primary use.
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post #6375 of 8421 Old 12-18-2018, 10:50 AM
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^I have an MRX 520 driving a 3.0 system (Revel C205 + Revel M106's) in an exercise room and it sounds great. There's some music listening but primary use tends to be TV or movies. I went the 520 route to lower cost. One surprise (my fault, not Anthem's) was that the 520 doesn't support WiFi so a wired connection is required to run ARC.

Hadn't heard the send-PCM solution before. Interesting! Thanks for posting that.


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post #6376 of 8421 Old 12-18-2018, 12:06 PM
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Full Disclosure: I've had trouble and another guy did back in this forum too, with down mixing dolby sources to 2.0 in my case and 3.1 in his. Volume seemed muted, still sounded good, but where I'd normally listen to the volume at around -35-30 db, I had to go to -20 or a bit lower. I found (and told the other guy) that switching from the Anthem decoding to the Oppo 203 decoding and sending PCM solved the problem. I don't know if this was an oppo thing or not. DTS-MA, did not exhibit this behavior and volume levels where the same regardless of player or anthem decoding. So Oppo decoding is my default setting now. Dynamic Range to off.
I have a similar problem on an AVM 60 with 2.1 mixdown of DTS tracks. DTS HD is fine, but plain DTS sometimes has the problem.

Pausing the movie and restarting immediately brings the extra volume back, and the first interaction with the volume control - even an increase - will drop back 10dB or so. Makes watching a movie quietly late at night really annoying.

Anthem tech support suggested using a "listening mode" (like Dolby surround) and that appears to work around the problem.
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post #6377 of 8421 Old 12-18-2018, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbroadus View Post
The past month when I turn on my MRX-720 (input Cable TV), I get a picture for about 5 seconds and then “snow” (pic below) so I have to change to a different input and then back to the previous for the picture to stay. This happens even if the cable box/TV has been on for a while and the 720 has been off. Suggestions?

I used to run into this same issue when I would start my Xbox One X after the first time I would adjust the volume and the receiver would inject the on screen volume display.
I haven't seen it in months though and just assumed it was fixed via a firmware update for the anthem or the xbox.
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Speakers: Fronts: Triton One | Center: Supercenter XL | Surrounds: SuperSat 50 | Rear Surrounds: Invisa HTR 7000 | Atmos: 4x Invisa 650
Receiver: Anthem MRX 1120 | Electronics: XBOX One X, PS4 Pro, Roku Ultra, Chromecast Ultra | Power Management: Panamax M5400-PM
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post #6378 of 8421 Old 12-19-2018, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill-99 View Post
^I have an MRX 520 driving a 3.0 system (Revel C205 + Revel M106's) in an exercise room and it sounds great. There's some music listening but primary use tends to be TV or movies. I went the 520 route to lower cost. One surprise (my fault, not Anthem's) was that the 520 doesn't support WiFi so a wired connection is required to run ARC.

Hadn't heard the send-PCM solution before. Interesting! Thanks for posting that.
I was prepared for the no wi-fi problem. My previous receiver also didn't have wi-fi only hardline for FW updates so I have a 50 ft ethernet cable I bought from monprice.com for like 10 bucks I think. I hook it into my router in the office and run it into the living room for the limited time (about 15 minutes) that I needed it for ARC, then unhooked it and put it back in the closet.

Supercharged Song Towers, Oppo BDP-203, Anthem MRX-520, LG B6 OLED
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post #6379 of 8421 Old 12-19-2018, 06:27 AM
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I used to run into this same issue when I would start my Xbox One X after the first time I would adjust the volume and the receiver would inject the on screen volume display.

I haven't seen it in months though and just assumed it was fixed via a firmware update for the anthem or the xbox.

Thanks...my 720 is up to date (1.4.088). I can’t decider if the problem is with Panasonic VieraLink or Anthem CEC, I have CEC on.


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Panasonic P60VT60 Calibrated by Chad B
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post #6380 of 8421 Old 12-19-2018, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glangford View Post
I was prepared for the no wi-fi problem. My previous receiver also didn't have wi-fi only hardline for FW updates so I have a 50 ft ethernet cable I bought from monprice.com for like 10 bucks I think. I hook it into my router in the office and run it into the living room for the limited time (about 15 minutes) that I needed it for ARC, then unhooked it and put it back in the closet.
Same problem, almost the same solution. I wound up buying two 75 ft Ethernet cables from Amazon for about $15 each. One stays hardwired to the 520, the other is connected only when I need to run ARC. It's an extra expense but I'm pretty sure the additional $30 is still less than the cost of upgrading to a 720.


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post #6381 of 8421 Old 12-19-2018, 08:12 AM
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Thanks...my 720 is up to date (1.4.088). I can’t decider if the problem is with Panasonic VieraLink or Anthem CEC, I have CEC on.


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If I were to guess, I'd say it's the Panasonic.

I have pretty regular HDMI CEC issues with my MRX 510 and my Sharp LC-80LE844U. The MRX-510 never had any issues with CEC when it was hooked up to my Sony projector with the exact same configuration. Now, in the system with an older TV (around the same age as your VT60), I regularly have to restore to defaults and reload the config because it'll get stuck with some kind of bad HDMI handshake and won't pass audio to the receiver.

At least the HDMI snow issue is solvable by switching inputs.
Unfortunately, you can't set a turn on delay using HDMI CEC to power devices on, so the other option is to not use CEC and get something like a harmony remote where you can set appropriate delays.

Speakers: Fronts: Triton One | Center: Supercenter XL | Surrounds: SuperSat 50 | Rear Surrounds: Invisa HTR 7000 | Atmos: 4x Invisa 650
Receiver: Anthem MRX 1120 | Electronics: XBOX One X, PS4 Pro, Roku Ultra, Chromecast Ultra | Power Management: Panamax M5400-PM
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post #6382 of 8421 Old 12-19-2018, 05:34 PM
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Has anyone coming from the prevoius line of mrx's noticed the bass seems to be more tame with the new line? I went from the 710 to the 1120. On the 710 I didn't touch the bass settings. Now I turn the level up about 4 notches.
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post #6383 of 8421 Old 12-19-2018, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajax-jp View Post
If I were to guess, I'd say it's the Panasonic.



I have pretty regular HDMI CEC issues with my MRX 510 and my Sharp LC-80LE844U. The MRX-510 never had any issues with CEC when it was hooked up to my Sony projector with the exact same configuration. Now, in the system with an older TV (around the same age as your VT60), I regularly have to restore to defaults and reload the config because it'll get stuck with some kind of bad HDMI handshake and won't pass audio to the receiver.



At least the HDMI snow issue is solvable by switching inputs.

Unfortunately, you can't set a turn on delay using HDMI CEC to power devices on, so the other option is to not use CEC and get something like a harmony remote where you can set appropriate delays.

Thanks...I currently have a harmony 650 that works some of the time so I gave up on it. Been thinking about getting the elite but haven’t pulled the trigger yet. What is the best order for components to turn on/off (AVR/TV/Cablebox)?


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Panasonic P60VT60 Calibrated by Chad B
Anthem MRX-720, Oppo UDP-205, Bluesound Node 2i, Focal Aria 936/CC900
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post #6384 of 8421 Old 12-19-2018, 07:50 PM
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Anyone have an issue when hooking up XLR and getting popping through your speakers? With RCA, it doesnt happen.. other than adding back 1 XLR at a time, any otherway to diagnose?

LG OLED65B7P.
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post #6385 of 8421 Old 12-20-2018, 12:12 PM
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Anyone have an issue when hooking up XLR and getting popping through your speakers? With RCA, it doesnt happen.. other than adding back 1 XLR at a time, any otherway to diagnose?

I get the faintest of pops in my L/C/R and in-ceilings, never in the surrounds, which are lower sensitivity, guessing that contributes? Dunno....but like I said, these are faint, nothing alarming about them. Are yours loud, or somehow disconcerting?

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #6386 of 8421 Old 12-20-2018, 09:38 PM
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I get the faintest of pops in my L/C/R and in-ceilings, never in the surrounds, which are lower sensitivity, guessing that contributes? Dunno....but like I said, these are faint, nothing alarming about them. Are yours loud, or somehow disconcerting?
Its audible while viewing media. Seems to happen when I hookup my rears XLR cables. Switching to an XLR(Anthem) to RCA(Rotel) adapter, I don't here popping so far.

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post #6387 of 8421 Old 12-20-2018, 09:40 PM
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Does any Anthem AVR or PrePro offer 2 independent Sub Outs? Is this something one can expect in next generation of their products?

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post #6388 of 8421 Old 12-20-2018, 10:23 PM
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Does any Anthem AVR or PrePro offer 2 independent Sub Outs? Is this something one can expect in next generation of their products?
No it doesn't. As for future generations who knows.

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post #6389 of 8421 Old 12-20-2018, 10:35 PM
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Its audible while viewing media. Seems to happen when I hookup my rears XLR cables. Switching to an XLR(Anthem) to RCA(Rotel) adapter, I don't here popping so far.

Ok, that does not seem right. I only get those faint pops with initial power on, never continuous or sustained. You're saying that you're hearing continuous noise with typical viewing, like TV, etc.? You're running XLRs from the AVM to a Rotel amp, but when you switch to RCA from the AVM to the Rotel, no issues?

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #6390 of 8421 Old 12-20-2018, 10:38 PM
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Does any Anthem AVR or PrePro offer 2 independent Sub Outs? Is this something one can expect in next generation of their products?

Probably in the future. Though it's a stereo integrated, I believe the STR has dual, independent sub outputs. Even the ARC software for AVM/MRX suggests dual subs, but the functionality isn't there. My guess is yes - you will see this in the future.

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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