Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers - Page 220 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6571 of 8329 Old 01-23-2019, 01:13 PM
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@desray2k & @Delija - figured out why I wasn’t getting very good playback when using Play-Fi is because my Tidal playback settings were set to normal and not HiFi. Sounds much better now that I switched settings and using my new speakers. Thanks.

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post #6572 of 8329 Old 01-23-2019, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
It's funny cause this discussion cycles through every year now. The last round was the same. Several of us came and said the same thing that ARC took out all the magic from our systems. Same suggestions, post your file, maybe bad mic etc. I don't believe there was a bad mic. I use the system for music a lot. Granted the way the Anthem works, ARC can be disabled on just a music input anyway so it doesn't matter. But that's how I noticed the problem.

I have made a lot of changes since ARC - I have moved my main listening position up 3 feet, changed all the rear speakers around, gotten different amps. I may rerun ARC again and see what it does this time.

I handled most my room problems with room treatments though.
These days I've spent a lot of time listening to the stereo music (lossless including hi-res) and I must say that ARC really takes some magic away from the sound. There is no doubt. Even when max EQ is limited to lower values - e.g. 300 Hz. The sound with ARC has somewhat lower resolution, lacks ultimate details, it's a little grainy, the soundstage is not rendered as good as without ARC. The difference is not dramatic, of course.

I was (too) impressed with almost perfect bass frequency range that I was willing to "forgive" a slight loss in other fields.
At the beginning, I've listened only full range Dynaudios in mode without ARC, because subwoofer was not properly integrated. And I preferred the sound with subwoofers and ARC.
But, once I've integrated and optimized subwoofers manually, without ARC, using PEQs and brought them to the level I had with ARC - well, that's another story. Just to add that even with ARC I had to manually fine tune FR using PEQs and phase on subwoofers, since I have a pretty "difficult" room.

BTW, since ARC limited to 300Hz still affects higher frequencies I wasn't sure what to expect from bass management (high pass filter), because the signal goes through the same DSP. Fortunately, high pass filter is not so "destructive" as ARC.

At the end, Anthem's sound in stereo mode is really good (I'm using MRX 720 as preamp for front channels) - but as some other members here, I also find it better without ARC.



p.s. FR in bass range with and without ARC - green is with ARC. Of course, both FRs follow house/Harman target curve.


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post #6573 of 8329 Old 01-23-2019, 05:51 PM
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Play-Fi sound quality

I agree with you about Play-Fi. I am very happy with it. Incredibly I think my own music streamed from my NAS sounds better wirelessly than through an ethernet connection and streamer (Sonore Sonic Orbiter). I attribute it to less components and opportunities to collect noise...very unscientific however ).

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Yeah, I really don't think Play-Fi is too bad. Does a pretty good job if you ask me.
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post #6574 of 8329 Old 01-25-2019, 11:34 AM
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I would like to know. If a AVM 60 with emotive amps third generation would sound better than my 1120.


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post #6575 of 8329 Old 01-26-2019, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Applemike68 View Post
I would like to know. If a AVM 60 with emotive amps third generation would sound better than my 1120.


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It depends what kind of speakers you have. If they are hard to drive, the amp will help. It might also bring out more detail.

1) JVC RS540, Yamaha CX-A5100, Outlaw Audio 7700 & 7140, Wharfedale Jade 7's series speakers, RSL C34e(Atmos)
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post #6576 of 8329 Old 01-26-2019, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Applemike68 View Post
I would like to know. If a AVM 60 with emotive amps third generation would sound better than my 1120.


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I think it would because I believe the AVM60 has better DAC or ADC

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post #6577 of 8329 Old 01-26-2019, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Norris Kasey View Post
I think it would because I believe the AVM60 has better DAC or ADC
The AVM60 has a different ADC (analog to digital) compared to the MRX1120. It does not have a different DAC. [source]. For someone like Applemike68 who appears to have only digital sources (judging from his signature) this would not be a factor at all.
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post #6578 of 8329 Old 01-26-2019, 08:39 AM
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I asked this in the Anthem 60 thread, but it probably applies to all three models.

What does "auto" mean in the DD Dynamics options? The manual only lists Normal, Reduced, and Late Night. What would Auto choose and based on what?

It only appears as an option for Dolby Atmos.

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post #6579 of 8329 Old 01-26-2019, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbo View Post
It depends what kind of speakers you have. If they are hard to drive, the amp will help. It might also bring out more detail.


Thanks. I have paradigm 95f and their center channel. Also in wall and ceiling paradigm speakers.


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post #6580 of 8329 Old 01-26-2019, 10:02 AM
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I am not familiar with Paradigm speakers, but I'll give you my example.

I have Wharfedale Jade 7 speakers which are hard to drive and I had a Integra DTA70.1 amp(I also tried a Yamaha 5100). That amp could not drive those speakers. So I upgraded to a Outlaw Audio 7700 because I was just looking to drive the speakers without the amp shutting down. It worked, but the detail it brought out also was not something I was expecting. I can hear things I could never hear with the Integra or the Yamaha. The details, dynamics and separation are far better. The Yamaha could drive them but it did not bring out the details that Outlaw did.

1) JVC RS540, Yamaha CX-A5100, Outlaw Audio 7700 & 7140, Wharfedale Jade 7's series speakers, RSL C34e(Atmos)
2) LG OLED65B6, Integra DRC-R1, Emotiva XPA9, Klipsch RP8000F, Klipsch RP404C, Klipsch RP500SA, Klipsch RP140D

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post #6581 of 8329 Old 01-26-2019, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erod View Post
I asked this in the Anthem 60 thread, but it probably applies to all three models.

What does "auto" mean in the DD Dynamics options? The manual only lists Normal, Reduced, and Late Night. What would Auto choose and based on what?

It only appears as an option for Dolby Atmos.
Auto was a DRC mode developed for TrueHD, and IIRC was intended to let the content maker apply DRC (or not) for conditions such as downmixing. If DRC is off when downmixing, the program loudness might have to be reduced to allow for peak buildup -- depends on the program. The idea had to do with preserving the original dynamics when possible. Not sure how it is being used in reality. though. Good question for Dolby!

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post #6582 of 8329 Old 01-26-2019, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Applemike68 View Post
I would like to know. If a AVM 60 with emotive amps third generation would sound better than my 1120.

Probably not. Doubt you'd notice much of a difference if any.

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post #6583 of 8329 Old 01-26-2019, 07:48 PM
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Hello. Have had my MRX-720 for over 3 weeks now and I’m having an issue when watching content from an AppleTV 4K. All of sudden, image displayed will be TV snow. It’s still on the right input, just no longer showing the Apple TV feed, just snow. If I go to another input and then come back to Input 1 (to which the ATV is plugged in), then I can see the Apple TV feed fine again. Usually happens once in a 2-hour movie. I have not experienced this on other inputs although I have watched for shorter periods. Both my ATV and MRX are on the latest firmware. Anyone else experienced this? Any info welcome.
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post #6584 of 8329 Old 01-27-2019, 06:16 AM
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Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers

Quote:
Originally Posted by steilkurve10 View Post
Hello. Have had my MRX-720 for over 3 weeks now and I’m having an issue when watching content from an AppleTV 4K. All of sudden, image displayed will be TV snow. It’s still on the right input, just no longer showing the Apple TV feed, just snow. If I go to another input and then come back to Input 1 (to which the ATV is plugged in), then I can see the Apple TV feed fine again. Usually happens once in a 2-hour movie. I have not experienced this on other inputs although I have watched for shorter periods. Both my ATV and MRX are on the latest firmware. Anyone else experienced this? Any info welcome.
I’ve experienced this when first turning on my 720, I then switch to a different input and back it’s fine. So, it happens to you when you’re watching a movie or when you first turn on your Apple TV?

It’s bizarre because the Anthem AVRs only do video pass through. Are your hdmi cables certified? I believe it’s a handshake issue but I’m unsure how to correct it. It didn’t happen to me until I had my receiver several months. I’ve asked about it here before and some have indicated that my components need to come on in the proper order but no one has told me what that order is.


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post #6585 of 8329 Old 01-27-2019, 06:23 AM
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Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers

Duplicate post...please delete.

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post #6586 of 8329 Old 01-27-2019, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by mbroadus View Post
I’ve experienced this when first turning on my 720, I then switch to a different input and back it’s fine. So, it happens to you when you’re watching a movie or when you first turn on your Apple TV?
It’s never happening when I first turn on the receiver. It’s really only after I’ve played video for a little while on the Apple TV that all of a sudden it goes to snow. Switching away from and back to the Apple TV input will fix the issue, albeit temporarily until it comes back.

After reading some more forum posts, some have suggested similar issues were either HDMI CEC or ARC-related. I’ve tried turning off CEC on the 720 and it has not done anything. I’ve now changed the HDMI output to #2 , the non-ARC one. I’ll see if it does anything.

Any other thoughts are welcome.
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post #6587 of 8329 Old 01-27-2019, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by steilkurve10 View Post
It’s never happening when I first turn on the receiver. It’s really only after I’ve played video for a little while on the Apple TV that all of a sudden it goes to snow. Switching away from and back to the Apple TV input will fix the issue, albeit temporarily until it comes back.



After reading some more forum posts, some have suggested similar issues were either HDMI CEC or ARC-related. I’ve tried turning off CEC on the 720 and it has not done anything. I’ve now changed the HDMI output to #2 , the non-ARC one. I’ll see if it does anything.



Any other thoughts are welcome.

I have CEC off but the snow still persists. Let me know if switching to the non arc output cures the snow, I’ll do the same.

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post #6588 of 8329 Old 01-28-2019, 08:05 AM
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^No clue if this applies with Apple TV but just in case...

My system has a home theater PC, Roku and blu ray player connected to an AVM 60. When powering up to use the blu ray or HTPC, it would work fine for a few minutes and then magically flip to the Roku input. This was eventually traced to unwanted CEC commands being sent by the Roku device to the AVM 60 causing the latter to get confused.

Turning off HDMI CEC isn't an option for me because I use the audio return channel for OTA TV, and no configuration settings in the Roku had any effect. Someone suggested installing a Lindy HDMI CEC Less adapter in the signal path, which is what I did, and the problems went away.

The Lindy isn't very expensive (~$20) and might be worth a try. It might also be worthwhile to contact Apple tech support to see what they have to say about CEC coming out of the Apple TV.

Just one more upgrade and things will be perfect.
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post #6589 of 8329 Old 01-29-2019, 03:20 AM
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I have CEC off but the snow still persists. Let me know if switching to the non arc output cures the snow, I’ll do the same.
So using output 2 has not solved anything unfortunately. Just watched a film on Apple TV and got snow after 45 minutes.

Output 2 also seems to have another issue where the screen is green when powering up the unit on Apple TV. I have to switch away from and back to input 1 for it to work.

Not sure where to go from here. I guess I’ll call Anthem tech support.

Any other ideas welcome.
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post #6590 of 8329 Old 01-29-2019, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steilkurve10 View Post
So using output 2 has not solved anything unfortunately. Just watched a film on Apple TV and got snow after 45 minutes.



Output 2 also seems to have another issue where the screen is green when powering up the unit on Apple TV. I have to switch away from and back to input 1 for it to work.



Not sure where to go from here. I guess I’ll call Anthem tech support.



Any other ideas welcome.

Sorry to hear...has to be a handshake issue but not sure how to fix. Anthem tech support is really good and should be able to give you several remedies. Really surprised no one here has a fix but maybe you and I are the only ones who have this problem.

I have an Apple TV 4K too, but my snow happens when using the TV and has only begun the last 6 months and all my cables are BlueJeans certified.

Are you using an AppleTV 4K?

How old is your TV?

Please let us know what Anthem says. Thanks.


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post #6591 of 8329 Old 01-29-2019, 07:45 AM
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So I spoke with Anthem tech support. They were great. They believe that it is an HDP issue (DRM handshake) and that it could be caused by my cables. Suggested I try new cables between ATV and receiver as well as the projector. Latter is trickier as it’s in wall. Also suggested I try using input 2 on my Sony projector. I will start by trying a new cable between my ATV and the MRX as well as input 2 on my projector. Will report back.
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post #6592 of 8329 Old 01-29-2019, 08:03 AM
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^ You can test the projector run by first trying a new cable that’s not in the wall. HDMI is an end to end protocol, so you will need to update all the cables in the signal path before reaching a conclusion. If you have other items in the signal path, such as “wall plates” used to tidy up the ends of in-wall cabling, they too should be suspect. Test by bypassing those.

What you should be using are Premium Certified cables. These need not be expensive, although long runs can be tricky. For more info see my Blog post here:

HDMI “Premium Certified” Cables

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post #6593 of 8329 Old 01-29-2019, 08:43 AM
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Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers

Interesting because I upgraded my hdmi cables to BlueJeans Premium Certified cables (6 ft length) and that did not solve my problem.

Let us know if that works.

Found this...

When a signal is sent over HDMI, the components communicate with each other to ensure all the devices are legal and compatible before allowing the audio/video signal to pass through. This communication protocol is referred to as the "HDMI handshake." If a successful handshake is not established, you will (usually) get a warning message saying you need HDCP compliant equipment and the picture and sound will be disrupted. Because the red/blue/green component connections are not digital they are unaffected, but, as you have seen, HDMI offers superior picture quality.

Using the proper turn-on sequence can help establish a solid HDMI handshake. First, turn on the TV, let it run for a few seconds, then turn on the receiver, give it a few seconds to boot up then turn on the cable box and Blu-ray player. If the signal is cutting out while viewing, switching back and forth between TV or receiver inputs will often re-establish the handshake.

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post #6594 of 8329 Old 01-30-2019, 06:06 AM
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Help !! Morning everybody. Just received the bluesound node 2i, instructions said easy hookup - they no not who they’re dealing with !! Do I go analog out to analog in left & right on the 1120 ? Do I need to change or label an imput to use analog ? I’m not getting this at all. I did download the iOS app, no clue what I’m looking at or how to use that either. Purchased this for tidal & MQA, have the subscription. Just want to turn it on & rock out !! Currently doing tidal through my oppo, love it.
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post #6595 of 8329 Old 01-30-2019, 07:00 AM
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Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers

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Originally Posted by stevenbarnes1 View Post
Help !! Morning everybody. Just received the bluesound node 2i, instructions said easy hookup - they no not who they’re dealing with !! Do I go analog out to analog in left & right on the 1120 ? Do I need to change or label an imput to use analog ? I’m not getting this at all. I did download the iOS app, no clue what I’m looking at or how to use that either. Purchased this for tidal & MQA, have the subscription. Just want to turn it on & rock out !! Currently doing tidal through my oppo, love it.

I purchased a node 2i for Tidal MQA and will be connecting it to my 720 today via RCA out on 2i to RCA (analog) in on 720. Add an additional input and name it whatever you want, video input - none; audio input - analog 1; zone 2 - none; Profile - whatever you want; Process Analog - No; ARC - On or Off; I have off for the rest.


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post #6596 of 8329 Old 01-30-2019, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by mbroadus View Post
I purchased a node 2i for Tidal MQA and will be connecting it to my 720 today via RCA out on 2i to RCA (analog) in on 720. Add an additional input and name it whatever you want, video input - none; audio input - analog 1; zone 2 - none; Profile - whatever you want; Process Analog - No; ARC - On or Off; I have off for the rest.


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I’ll give it a shot, thanks !! Any help with the node to get the tidal up & running would help too !
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post #6597 of 8329 Old 01-30-2019, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by stevenbarnes1 View Post
I’ll give it a shot, thanks !! Any help with the node to get the tidal up & running would help too !

Have you downloaded the Bluesound app?

You may want to ask Bluesound questions on their thread, I’m sure that’s where I’ll be most of the day.

Link - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-ne...-streamer.html


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post #6598 of 8329 Old 01-30-2019, 10:03 PM
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Amazing Full Analog Music from my Oppo 205/Anthem Combo

I've just achieved audio nirvana with my Anthem 720 and Oppo 205. I asked this question a while back and received some bad info and actually bought equipment I didn't need: A MiniDSP and UMIK. I wanted to take full advantage of the audiophile-grade analog section of the Oppo 205 with my Anthem receiver. The answer, when I finally figured it out, required nothing more than a 2-way RCA switch and two additional, short subwoofer cables.

Here is what I did...

-I fed the analog outs of the Oppo to an analog input on the Anthem and set up a new Anthem analog input with no processing and Anthem correction off. This results in no bass management and no signal on the Anthem subwoofer out, which is a bummer if you have smaller front speakers.

-I then fed the Oppo subwoofer out and Anthem subwoofer out to the switch, which was an Ocean Matrix Composite Video RCA Input Expander Switch. So basically I had a sub out from the Oppo and a sub out from the Anthem I could switch between.

-I cranked the Anthem volume up to a "slightly loud for me" listening level of 18.
-I set up a 2.1 system in the Oppo with front speakers set to "small" and the subwoofer on. I then used several reference tracks to set the crossover and subwoofer gain in the Oppo for my desired sound, which happened to be a crossover of 90 Hz and no gain on the sub. (I'm running M&K 150's and an M&K sub)

-I changed the Oppo Volume from fixed to "variable" and added Oppo volume control buttons to my RTI remote for my "Oppo Analog Music" Anthem input. Once you integrate your sub with your front speakers at full volume, the Oppo volume control will raise and lower sub and analog out volume in sync for perfect bass at any volume level.

This sounds slightly complex but all I have to do to listen to beautiful music is switch to that Anthem input, turn the Anthem up to 18, switch the subwoofer switch from Anthem to Oppo, and then use the Oppo volume control via my RTI remote. High-res music files from my usb hard drive now have so much air, life and detail I was blown away. Much more than using an HDMI connection with bass management by Anthem. The poster above was correct about the Anthem correction stealing something from the music. I use Anthem room correction for general television watching and movies, but now I can go full analog with my music files. And yes, it does make a huge difference!! You don't need the sub switch to just test it out. At the risk of taking a beating here, I have to admit I just purchased the 24 bit file of Yanni's Live at The Acropolis. But it totally blew me away!! I welcome your feedback.
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post #6599 of 8329 Old 01-31-2019, 06:29 AM
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^Congrats on getting your analog path set up and working well. The 205 is a nice piece. Bet that sounds great!

My system includes an Oppo 203 and an AVM 60. I'd welcome your thoughts on this question.

The DAC in the 203 and the AVM 60 are the same, so I've been sending BitStream over HDMI out of the Oppo to the AVM 60 which does the conversion to analog. In general this has worked well but I've never tried the analog outs from the Oppo. Any thoughts on whether analog out from the 203 might provide any sound quality improvement? With the 205's superior DAC it seems like the way to go but on the 203, it doesn't seem like there would be any benefit though I've never tried it for comparison.

Thoughts?

Just one more upgrade and things will be perfect.
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post #6600 of 8329 Old 01-31-2019, 06:34 AM
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Swatdude1,
^ It looks like you did things well, but to double check I suggest you look at a post I made on page 10 of the 205 Owner's Thread in the Blu-ray Players forum here -- "Notes on Setting Up for Analog Audio Output".

The main thing to look at is whether you have established the correct "Subwoofer Boost" to match the level of the Sub out of the OPPO with its main speaker Analog outs.

If you are using your switch to change between direct connection of the OPPO Sub out to the Subwoofer vs. the connection of the Anthem Sub out to the Subwoofer, then you need to check this both ways. The Anthem will already provide +10dB of Sub Boost on its output, so if you don't take that into account you could end up with the Sub too hot when the switch is set to feed the Anthem to the Sub.

The usual approach to setting this up for both signal paths is to do the direct Analog connection first (Sub fed direct from OPPO). Establish the correct Sub Boost for that path using the volume knob on the Sub itself. With speakers set to Small in the OPPO you will need +15dB Sub Boost this way. But that detail is not important. When the mains and Sub produce the same SPL when playing test tones from a calibration track then you have the correct Sub Boost in place.

Next switch to using the path where the Anthem feeds the Sub -- for example when playing HDMI audio from the OPPO to the Anthem. With the volume knob already raised on the Sub to make the prior path work correctly, you likely have too much Sub at this point. To correct that you can use the "temporary" level controls in the Anthem -- not the ones in the Level Calibration portion of its Setup menu, but rather the ones you get to using the buttons on the Remote itself. Use the Subwoofer temporary level trim to LOWER the Sub output of the Anthem to compensate for the raised volume knob on the Sub, and achieve the correct Sub Boost.

This is now a set and forget setting, because when you switch back to using the direct connection from OPPO to Sub, the Sub output of the Anthem is not connected to anything, so the "temporary" level adjustment you just made will not matter.

The only gotcha is that the "temporary" settings in the Anthem are *NOT SAVED* when you save settings. So if you restore factory defaults and reload saved settings you will need to go back in and manually re-establish this "temporary" Sub output level setting in the Anthem.
--Bob

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