Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers - Page 225 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6721 of 8314 Old 02-18-2019, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tristan944 View Post
How do I turn that off?
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Originally Posted by Tristan944 View Post
Thank you so much for your help, I'll change the settings tomorrow. So if I turn it off permanently, the Atmos speakers will still work correctly when I play an Atmos video?
I'm not sure what you're looking to do exactly. The default setup is for the receiver to upscale everything to 'dolby surround', which uses all your speakers and gives a simulated atmos experience. It's quite good. Are you playing movies this way or music? If you change dolby surround to "stereo" then nothing gets upscaled. All stereo movies/tv will not use the surround speakers. Setting stereo works if you're listening to music. But if you're watching TV/movies, perhaps you want some surround upscaling.

If you hate having it upscale to atmos, why not create a movie profile with the ceiling speakers disabled, then a virtual input that uses that profile. You can switch between the two one for everything, one for atmos.

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Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #6722 of 8314 Old 02-18-2019, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Tristan944 View Post
Thank you so much for your help, I'll change the settings tomorrow. So if I turn it off permanently, the Atmos speakers will still work correctly when I play an Atmos video?
Yes. Only the upmixing will be gone.

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post #6723 of 8314 Old 02-22-2019, 06:07 PM
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Issue:

Upgraded to an Anthem AVM60 but there is a small hiccup in that using the dual HDMI outputs is causing my Xbox One X to not support all HDR settings (since one of the HDMI outs on the Anthem is connected to a non-HDR compatible port on my Sony...it's causing the Xbox One X to think the Sony isn't capable of full bandwidth compatibility, confirmed by disconnecting the HDMI out from the Anthem going to the non-HDR input on the Sony).

Is there anyway to disable an HDMI out on the Anthem when it is not in use?

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post #6724 of 8314 Old 02-22-2019, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
Issue:

Upgraded to an Anthem AVM60 but there is a small hiccup in that using the dual HDMI outputs is causing my Xbox One X to not support all HDR settings (since one of the HDMI outs on the Anthem is connected to a non-HDR compatible port on my Sony...it's causing the Xbox One X to think the Sony isn't capable of full bandwidth compatibility, confirmed by disconnecting the HDMI out from the Anthem going to the non-HDR input on the Sony).

Is there anyway to disable an HDMI out on the Anthem when it is not in use?
Not within the Anthem itself. You’d need a 1 in, 2 out HDMI switch to direct the single, main HDMI out of the Anthem to the correct display in use at the moment. Be sure to get a switch that supports the high bandwidth 4K/HDR signals. You can likely find a remote controlled switch at, e.g., Monoprice.
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post #6725 of 8314 Old 02-22-2019, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
Issue:

Upgraded to an Anthem AVM60 but there is a small hiccup in that using the dual HDMI outputs is causing my Xbox One X to not support all HDR settings (since one of the HDMI outs on the Anthem is connected to a non-HDR compatible port on my Sony...it's causing the Xbox One X to think the Sony isn't capable of full bandwidth compatibility, confirmed by disconnecting the HDMI out from the Anthem going to the non-HDR input on the Sony).

Is there anyway to disable an HDMI out on the Anthem when it is not in use?
The problem is that the Sony advertises its capabilities when in standby. You'd need to make sure the Sony was unplugged and it would work. One way to do this is to put the Sony on a remote controlled power plug so you can actually unplug it with a remote control button.

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #6726 of 8314 Old 02-23-2019, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
The problem is that the Sony advertises its capabilities when in standby. You'd need to make sure the Sony was unplugged and it would work. One way to do this is to put the Sony on a remote controlled power plug so you can actually unplug it with a remote control button.

How would that help though? The Sony needs to be on since it is the TV.
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post #6727 of 8314 Old 02-23-2019, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
How would that help though? The Sony needs to be on since it is the TV.
Why is "one of the HDMI outs on the Anthem is connected to a non-HDR compatible port on my Sony"? Is the HDR compatible input otherwise occupied?
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post #6728 of 8314 Old 02-23-2019, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post
Why is "one of the HDMI outs on the Anthem is connected to a non-HDR compatible port on my Sony"? Is the HDR compatible input otherwise occupied?
Yea. The Sony only has two HDR compatible inputs. And on top of that, you can't change picture settings based on source material...picture settings are applied for all sources on one input. This made it so when I set everything up, I had my UHD player hooked directly to the Sony TV (and audio sent via a 2nd HDMI out from the player to the receiver). All of my SDR components fed into my receiver and to the Sony through one of the receiver outputs (to the non-HDR input on the Sony). And the second out of the receiver was used for my Xbox One X (into the other HDR input on the Sony). The Yamaha A2060 allowed me to assign which output was used per activity basis so it was never an issue.

I decided to bite the bullet and have everything go through my Anthem, even the UHD player, so that only the two HDR compatible inputs on the Sony are used. This just means I need to recalibrate my picture settings to find a happy medium for my SDR and HDR sources. Oh well.

However, now my current problem is my DirecTV receiver is no longer working with this new setup. It outputs video just fine but no audio and the On-Screen Anthem menu isn't showing up on the picture overlay. It's a very old receiver so I am going to upgrade to a newer Genie from DirecTV and see if that fixes it (it's probably a simple compatibility issue with now using the HDR-capable input on the Sony). Or at worst can just have the receiver hooked directly to the TV and use its optical out for sound since it is 5.1 only anyways.
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post #6729 of 8314 Old 02-23-2019, 01:29 PM
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Why would you want to use two hdmi outputs to the same tv? Plug it all into the anthem and use the HDMI ARC output to the tv input that accepts HDR. If your direct TV is only sending sound go into the setup screen for the direct TV input and make sure video and audio are both on HDMI. If that's correct then turn off everything then unplug the HDMI into the tv plug it back up restart the system

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post #6730 of 8314 Old 02-23-2019, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Norris Kasey View Post
Why would you want to use two hdmi outputs to the same tv? Plug it all into the anthem and use the HDMI ARC output to the tv input that accepts HDR. If your direct TV is only sending sound go into the setup screen for the direct TV input and make sure video and audio are both on HDMI. If that's correct then turn off everything then unplug the HDMI into the tv plug it back up restart the system

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As stated, I need to use multiple inputs on the TV to have different picture settings depending on the device
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post #6731 of 8314 Old 02-23-2019, 02:08 PM
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Can't you tweek one setting for like the uhd player and then one for the rest. Just switch the setting when you change inputs.

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post #6732 of 8314 Old 02-23-2019, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
However, now my current problem is my DirecTV receiver is no longer working with this new setup. It outputs video just fine but no audio and the On-Screen Anthem menu isn't showing up on the picture overlay. It's a very old receiver so I am going to upgrade to a newer Genie from DirecTV and see if that fixes it (it's probably a simple compatibility issue with now using the HDR-capable input on the Sony). Or at worst can just have the receiver hooked directly to the TV and use its optical out for sound since it is 5.1 only anyways.
Yes, I have a finicky Genie mini, and I use the coax S/PDIF output which helps.

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post #6733 of 8314 Old 02-23-2019, 05:38 PM
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Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers

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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
As stated, I need to use multiple inputs on the TV to have different picture settings depending on the device
Why not have programmed picture settings on the TV?


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post #6734 of 8314 Old 02-23-2019, 06:22 PM
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Why not have programmed picture settings on the TV?


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I do, but they don't change based on source. So any device, whether it be HDR or SDR, 1080p or 720p, share the same exact settings. This makes it hard to calibrate grayscale if only using one input on the TV since the corrections needed for my Xbox are drastically different from those needed for my UHD player or Bluray media server.
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post #6735 of 8314 Old 02-24-2019, 08:07 AM
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Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers

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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
I do, but they don't change based on source. So any device, whether it be HDR or SDR, 1080p or 720p, share the same exact settings. This makes it hard to calibrate grayscale if only using one input on the TV since the corrections needed for my Xbox are drastically different from those needed for my UHD player or Bluray media server.

Now I understand...is your TV a Sony OLED? Just curious because I’m looking at the Sony A9F and LG C8/E8.


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post #6736 of 8314 Old 02-24-2019, 01:19 PM
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Now I understand...is your TV a Sony OLED? Just curious because I’m looking at the Sony A9F and LG C8/E8.


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The X940E. I had an LG OLED but decided to jump from chasing perfect blacks to getting higher nits (after nearly a decade of cherishing black level, from a Pioneer plasma, to JVC projectors, etc). The increased nits was well worth it, IMO
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post #6737 of 8314 Old 02-24-2019, 02:05 PM
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The X940E. I had an LG OLED but decided to jump from chasing perfect blacks to getting higher nits (after nearly a decade of cherishing black level, from a Pioneer plasma, to JVC projectors, etc). The increased nits was well worth it, IMO

Thanks...I’ll probably stick with OLED since my TV room is not very bright and I can control the lighting with drapes. Anything a little brighter than plasma is welcome. I will look at the Sony XBR-65X900F or whatever the top of the line Sony OLED/LED is next year. Hope you’re able to get the Anthem squared away.


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Hi All, great forum especially for help & info.

I am seriously considering the MRX 1120 and looking on the Datasheet I see that it has an "Analog Direct Mode" yet I find no reference to that in the manual or a button on the remote for achieving that. As I prefer my stereo music to be as pure as possible I am keen to learn has that is selected.
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Hi All, great forum especially for help & info.

I am seriously considering the MRX 1120 and looking on the Datasheet I see that it has an "Analog Direct Mode" yet I find no reference to that in the manual or a button on the remote for achieving that. As I prefer my stereo music to be as pure as possible I am keen to learn has that is selected.
Section 3.5 in the manual - set ‘Process Analog Audio Input’ to ‘No’ and ‘Anthem Room Correction’ to ‘Off.’ Keep in mind that all inputs are virtual so the same connection, say HDMI 1, can be used in multiple input configurations. Additionally, you can have up to four speaker profiles so you could have multiple inputs configured to use the same source but with different speaker profiles and/or config settings.
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Section 3.5 in the manual - set ‘Process Analog Audio Input’ to ‘No’ and ‘Anthem Room Correction’ to ‘Off.’ Keep in mind that all inputs are virtual so the same connection, say HDMI 1, can be used in multiple input configurations. Additionally, you can have up to four speaker profiles so you could have multiple inputs configured to use the same source but with different speaker profiles and/or config settings.
Yes, I did come across this section but thought that this is not what was stated in the Anthem Datasheet "Analog Direct Mode" which from previous AVRs it has been a one button press on the remote usually with Direct on it.

This seems a little bit more complicated.
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post #6741 of 8314 Old 02-25-2019, 03:24 PM
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ARC tweaking question:


I'm using a Funk Audio 18.0 with internal EQ set to off. Running ARC, it determines that a 3rd Order rolloff with 27Hz HPF is best to get a completely flat EQ. However, I want to dig down to 20Hz (as I know the sub can handle it). Simply changing the HPF to 20Hz still gives a near perfect EQ result using the 3rd Order, except for a small +/-1dB bump/dip around 50Hz (which I can live with).



My question: If I want to manually change the target for the subwoofer, should I still keep the rolloff order ARC determined but change the HPF and/or Min EQ settings? Or should I also change the rolloff as well (just play with it for whatever resulting EQ looks best)? Wasn't sure the best approach in this scenario.



Thanks!
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post #6742 of 8314 Old 02-25-2019, 04:10 PM
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Also, for those more advanced ARC users who tweak a lot: what max EQ frequency do you use? The default 5000? Reading some tweaking guides, it looks like I can get my surround speakers to dig a little lower (currently at 130Hz) if I lower the max EQ down to around 2500-3000Hz (freeing up some filters for use on the lower end).
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post #6743 of 8314 Old 02-26-2019, 07:56 AM
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Yes, I did come across this section but thought that this is not what was stated in the Anthem Datasheet "Analog Direct Mode" which from previous AVRs it has been a one button press on the remote usually with Direct on it.

This seems a little bit more complicated.
The difference in your Anthem is you can create duplicate Input definitions -- identical except that one uses no Analog processing and the other does use processing. So you can accomplish the switch simply by selecting which Input you want to listen to at the moment, rather than having to keep going into the Setup menu.
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ARC tweaking question:


I'm using a Funk Audio 18.0 with internal EQ set to off. Running ARC, it determines that a 3rd Order rolloff with 27Hz HPF is best to get a completely flat EQ. However, I want to dig down to 20Hz (as I know the sub can handle it). Simply changing the HPF to 20Hz still gives a near perfect EQ result using the 3rd Order, except for a small +/-1dB bump/dip around 50Hz (which I can live with).


My question: If I want to manually change the target for the subwoofer, should I still keep the rolloff order ARC determined but change the HPF and/or Min EQ settings? Or should I also change the rolloff as well (just play with it for whatever resulting EQ looks best)? Wasn't sure the best approach in this scenario.


Thanks!
The rolloff ARC picks tries to match the inherent decay in the Sub which ARC measures down there. You can tweak it, but I would not lower the slope a lot because you'll be pushing more low end bass energy into the Sub than it can reproduce. Also, before pushing more low bass into the Sub, double check your Sub includes its own, built-in protection against too much energy in the low bass frequencies. If not, you risk damaging the sub (bottoming out the cone). Better Subs will typically include their own, low end protection, but if you are not careful in the settings changes you make in the Sub itself, you might mistakenly disable that protection.

An alternative might be to reposition the Sub closer to a wall or corner to get the "boundary gain" boost which happens at the lower frequencies. (Then redo your ARC setup of course.)

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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
Also, for those more advanced ARC users who tweak a lot: what max EQ frequency do you use? The default 5000? Reading some tweaking guides, it looks like I can get my surround speakers to dig a little lower (currently at 130Hz) if I lower the max EQ down to around 2500-3000Hz (freeing up some filters for use on the lower end).
I'm in the camp that likes to raise the Max EQ, but you'll find plenty of folks who are happier lowering it -- along with plenty who are happy just leaving it at the default 5kHz.

So feel free to experiment.

Note that the assignment of ARC correction resources as you adjust Max EQ is not all that intuitive. So if you need to free up resources to improve correction in the bass end of your Surrounds you may find just a small change of Max EQ does as good a job as cutting it in half as you suggested. Start by seeing what you get with Max EQ dropped all the way down to say 500Hz. That's going to show you the best ARC can do for bass from your Surrounds. Now go back to the vicinity of 5kHz and start tweaking Max EQ up and down modest amounts to see if you can find a smaller change which accomplishes the same, good result.

You can do a bunch of such experiments quite quickly: Change the Max EQ settings in Targets, accept that change, and re-Calculate to see what the charts now show. I.e., no need to re-Upload each candidate change. When you have a candidate that looks good in the charts, then you can Upload it and give it a listen.
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The rolloff ARC picks tries to match the inherent decay in the Sub which ARC measures down there. You can tweak it, but I would not lower the slope a lot because you'll be pushing more low end bass energy into the Sub than it can reproduce. Also, before pushing more low bass into the Sub, double check your Sub includes its own, built-in protection against too much energy in the low bass frequencies. If not, you risk damaging the sub (bottoming out the cone). Better Subs will typically include their own, low end protection, but if you are not careful in the settings changes you make in the Sub itself, you might mistakenly disable that protection.

An alternative might be to reposition the Sub closer to a wall or corner to get the "boundary gain" boost which happens at the lower frequencies. (Then redo your ARC setup of course.)

--Bob

I spent a good amount of time using the Curve Viewer option to look at the sub. From viewing the individual measurement spots and the uncorrected bass response, my sub's in-room -3dB spot is right at 15Hz. The reason ARC choose to start rolling off at 27Hz is because of a dip from 23-25Hz (that wasn't corrected), otherwise uncorrected the sub still digs down to 15Hz in-room (-3dB).



By changing the subwoofer max EQ setting from 200Hz to 160Hz, I was able to free up a correction filter that took care of the 23-25Hz dip, giving a straight line of response until it starts to roll-off at 20Hz with an 8th Order slope. Considering I don't need the sub reproducing up to 200Hz, that seems like a good trade off.



Regarding my speakers, I played around with the Max EQ setting, but there is an undefeatable dip at 110Hz for one of my surrounds that would prevent me from going any lower than 120Hz for the crossover, so I'm leaving best alone in that department (keeping it at Max EQ 5000Hz, all surround and atmos crossovers at 120Hz, fronts+center at 80Hz).
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post #6747 of 8314 Old 02-27-2019, 05:37 AM
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I'm new to Max EQ settings and what it does to ARC. I lowered the Max EQ to 500, 400, & 300 as recommended...is there a place where I can find more information on what decreasing or increasing the ARC Max EQ does and what the optimal setting should look like?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbroadus View Post
I'm new to Max EQ settings and what it does to ARC. I lowered the Max EQ to 500, 400, & 300 as recommended...is there a place where I can find more information on what decreasing or increasing the ARC Max EQ does and what the optimal setting should look like?
I use the Curve Viewer window (under the Tools tab) and overlay the Uncorrected Response, Corrected Response, Target Line, and EQ Line. As you change the Max EQ setting, I look at where the EQ Line values change.

Let's say you have a correctable dip at 85Hz and a dip at 4kHz for your surrounds (along with various other corrections in-between). The odds are ARC will roll your speaker off higher than 85Hz so it doesn't have to correct that dip, freeing up a correction filter that could be used on the 4kHz dip (assuming there was only one correction filter left to use in this example).

Changing your Max EQ to 3.5kHz in this instance would than free up that correction filter applied at 4kHz to possibly be used at the 85Hz dip, allowing you to have a lower crossover point.

Very simplistic explanation, but it hopefully gets the jist of it across. ARC only has so many correction filters available and it will "prioritize" spikes/dips based on the Max EQ setting. Same with the Subwoofer EQ setting. Mine was at 200Hz, but lowering it to 160Hz freed up a correction point to bump up my low end, allowing for a flat response down to 20Hz.

In fact, the exact changes I made for my subwoofer is what Anthem recommended when I emailed them my file. So I feel a little proud lol

As far as what the "optimal" setting should look like: compare the corrected line to the target line as you change the Max EQ setting. Does it get flatter? Does it allow you to have a lower crossover point while still being flat? It's a lot of compare/contrasting of the EQ graphs as you change the setting.
But that is also why I recommend using the Curve Viewer screen to see the various lines together, because ARC will not apply more then a +/-6dB of correction to a filter. So you may have a dip at the low end you want to bring up by changing the Max EQ but find it isn't making a difference...most likely because the max of 6dB has already been applied to that dip (shown by looking at the EQ line in Curve Viewer).

Last edited by BigCoolJesus; 02-27-2019 at 06:07 AM.
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@BigCoolJesus - thank you very much for the detailed response and link to the guide!

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