Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers - Page 259 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #7741 of 9208 Old 06-04-2019, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Delija View Post
From the review it would seem to me that I should stick with the analog connection. Is that right? thanks
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post #7742 of 9208 Old 06-04-2019, 07:40 AM
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If you hook up the bluesound with RCA and turn off processing in the anthem. It will use the DAC in the bluesound. If you leave on processing connected via RCA it will get converted back to digital (A/D) via anthem and back to (D/A) via anthem. If you connect bluesound via toslink the anthem (D/A) will do the work.

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post #7743 of 9208 Old 06-04-2019, 07:41 AM
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Try out different solutions and see what you like the best

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post #7744 of 9208 Old 06-04-2019, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bokap View Post
I have a new 1120 and also Bluesound Node 2i. Dealer who set up my home theater set the Node 2i to analog with RCA jacks. I was told yesterday that the Anthem has one of the best Dac’s and Node 2i should be connected optically to use the Anthem Dac instead of Node 2i dac. Is this correct? Thanks
The DAC in both units are high quality, but keep in mind that like others have mentioned, using ARC means this analog signal gets digitized before D/A conversion in the Anthem. In addition, my understanding is that if you connect a subwoofer via the Anthem sub outs, the Anthem also digitizes the input signal for the crossover, again adding another A/D and D/A stage.

Personally, I would connect the Node 2i via coaxial or toslink digital and let the Anthem do the work in your situation (a home theater with sub and multiple channels).

On a related note, I have a good friend with Magnepan 3.7, Musical Fidelity Tri-Vista integrated, and a Bluesound Vault 2. He is running the Bluesound analog outputs into the Tri-Vista. The sound of the Bluesound DAC does not limit the sound whatsover compared to using his Oppo BDP 95 DAC. So if you ever need to use the DAC in the NODE 2i, I doubt you would be disappointed.
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post #7745 of 9208 Old 06-04-2019, 09:12 AM
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Make two new inputs using the same source (bluesound) one with RCA with the processing off on this input. The other with the toslink or coaxial connection processing on. See what sounds best.

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post #7746 of 9208 Old 06-04-2019, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by cissado View Post
Well, the STR was just on my list and I was making a pros and cons list to go along with it. This would just be a "con" I guess. I also really wanted an all in one type piece. So, anyway, my pioneer elites would go on at the same time when I would use either of the remotes. "Stop" "Pause" etc... would just control both unless I used something to mask the IR area of the player I did not want controlled. I don't really know what else would arise from that. The STR definitely looks like a great piece and I am still contemplating it, just wondering about everything. I also like that amp you're getting and am eyeing it as well, mostly for the 400 watts/per channel. I'm taking my time though... Good luck and enjoy! Oh just noticed, NJ. Nice.

Thanks, I will report back once I receive the units, have them set up, and have a chance to use them for awhile. I was long considering the STR Integrated as well, and I think the jump up for 2-channel listening would be more than enough for my needs. One thing I discovered though that made me start thinking about the STR separates is that the Home Theater Bypass function on the Integrated doesn't pass the subwoofer signal from your receiver/pre-pro to the sub(s) when using it, effectively making the sub(s) inactive for HTB. Therefore, you would need to choose to either have your sub(s) used with your MRX or your STR Integrated but not both (there are some workarounds I discovered, but it's a bit of a pain). This is not an issue with the STR Preamp because it was designed later than the Integrated and designed with HTB in mind from the get-go. HTB only was offered on the Integrated later with a firmware update but still has the limitation that I described. I normally would not have even considered the separates because of the huge step up in price, but the Trade-Up program definitely helps, plus my dealer offers discounted pricing to begin with (I can PM the name to you in case you're interested), which makes it much more doable for me.


As for the issue with your Pioneer Elite players, I can see maybe powering them both on or off unintentionally being a nuisance, but I guess I'm a bit confused as to the "Stop," "Pause," issue. Unless you are playing something on both players simultaneously for some reason, not sure what you would be stopping or pausing on the second unit? In any case, you have me curious enough to call Anthem support to see if this will be a potential issue. I'll report back.
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post #7747 of 9208 Old 06-04-2019, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cissado View Post
Well, the STR was just on my list and I was making a pros and cons list to go along with it. This would just be a "con" I guess. I also really wanted an all in one type piece. So, anyway, my pioneer elites would go on at the same time when I would use either of the remotes. "Stop" "Pause" etc... would just control both unless I used something to mask the IR area of the player I did not want controlled. I don't really know what else would arise from that.

I just talked to Anthem support. They said it shouldn't be a problem as the MRX and STR and their respective remotes use completely different IR codes. Now if you had an MRX 310/510/710 sitting next to the 520/720/1120, then that could cause an issue...
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post #7748 of 9208 Old 06-04-2019, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by edmoney View Post
I just talked to Anthem support. They said it shouldn't be a problem as the MRX and STR and their respective remotes use completely different IR codes. Now if you had an MRX 310/510/710 sitting next to the 520/720/1120, then that could cause an issue...
That's good news. Thanks. I learned quite a bit from your last few posts. Thanks for that.

* Crosses Anthem STR integrated off the list...

I'm still enjoying the MRX 720 for it's purpose. I'd love to hear oyur feedback on your new gear. I'll pm you when I get a chance..

Thanks.
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post #7749 of 9208 Old 06-04-2019, 04:55 PM
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I am very keen to know if anyone has had the ability to compare both the Marantz SR8012 and Anthem MRX1120 or 720. I imagine they are both comparable in the surround - atmos etc and I am not wanting to compare the various room corrections they use.

My interest is in the Stereo mode to use for music and which offers the better sound quality both in detail, immersion and micro detail.

Thanks all
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post #7750 of 9208 Old 06-04-2019, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by desray2k View Post
But then again, I also agreed with others that bass boost should ONLY affect the lower end of the frequency range (50 - 20hz) which should be in the territory of the subwoofers since most of the speakers have at least 80hz crossover which in theory bass boost should not have much impact to the speakers. But clearly MiniDSP readings show otherwise?

Can other users confirm on this? And perhaps we should posed this question to Anthem for clarification?

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I'm going to ping Anthem and ask for some clarification as to how the boost effects speakers that have a crossover applied. I'm curious to see what they say.
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post #7751 of 9208 Old 06-04-2019, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
I'm going to ping Anthem and ask for some clarification as to how the boost effects speakers that have a crossover applied. I'm curious to see what they say.
Cool...
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post #7752 of 9208 Old 06-05-2019, 02:01 AM
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I would say it's a bug, because that should be the only thing which differentiate it from the room gain.

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post #7753 of 9208 Old 06-05-2019, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Delija View Post
I would say it's a bug, because that should be the only thing which differentiate it from the room gain.
I was just thinking. We know Room Gain is a system wide setting which can be set from 150Hz-300Hz, and it totally ignore the crossovers, and effects all the speakers. So we also know that Deep Bass Boost (also a system wide setting) effects all speakers (the graphs show it) and probably ignores the crossovers like Room Gain which would explain why I hear a difference when compared to the miniDSP for a house curve..

I wrote Anthem last night so I should get a reply soon they are pretty fast.

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post #7754 of 9208 Old 06-05-2019, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Legairre View Post
I'm going to ping Anthem and ask for some clarification as to how the boost effects speakers that have a crossover applied. I'm curious to see what they say.
OK so I got a reply from Anthem on the Deep Bass Boost and crossovers. I left title of the person from Anthem that responded, but I removed their name in case they don't want their name quoted on the forum

Quote:
Hello,


The deep bass boost is adjusting your EQ target by raising the db level desired for certain frequencies.


Speaker crossovers are not a brick wall where they don't play 79 hz, but do play 80 hz. There is a roll off where it will play frequencies below 80 hz just at a lower level. This level is summed with the level of the sub to achieve the desired target level.


​The only effect this setting has on your speakers is that it will increase low end frequencies to achieve the desired target curve. The crossovers will still be applied, but the frequencies that overlap with the sub may be a little louder as you have increased the desired target level for these frequencies.




Technical Advisor | Paradigm/Anthem Support Team
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post #7755 of 9208 Old 06-06-2019, 10:55 AM
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So, basically that's just an extension of room gain functionality - it provides a finer tuning of the global target curve.

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post #7756 of 9208 Old 06-06-2019, 01:25 PM
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I am planning to get ANthem MCA 225 to run my electrostatic speakers. Do you guys this will have enough power to drive these speakers or should i look fro different options?

Impedance "4 Ohms, 1.2 at 20kHz Compatible with 4, 6, or 8 Ohm rated amplifiers.
Nominal: 4 ohms
Minimum: 1.2 ohms @ 20 kHz "
Recommended Amplifier Power 20—400 watts per channel
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post #7757 of 9208 Old 06-06-2019, 03:58 PM
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Greetings all!

I'm a VERY proud new owner of a MRX-1120. I was originally running a Yamaha CX-A5100 with a 7 channel Sunfire TGA-7401. You can see all of my speakers and other gear in my signature.

I live in Alaska but my audio guy is a Paradigm/Anthem dealer in Vancouver, BC. I visited his shop back in September and purchased all of my speakers, minus my subwoofer, from him. With the exchange rate, it was a killer deal!

Fast forward to this past month with the trade up program. Part of my lust for the Paradigm setup was the fact that when I auditioned my Prestiges, they were driven by Anthem AVR's on both auditions. So, given my acute case of upgraditis, I decided to give my dealer a call again to get a quote and he delivered in spades!!

I just received my MRX-1120 this past Monday. I didn't have time to run an ARC calibration due to time constraints. I did, however, manage to swap all of my components and power up the system as was. I did not enter speaker distances or take any kind of measurements and was immediately impressed with the sheer clarity of what I was hearing. For Yamaha aficionados, please don't get me wrong... the CX-A5100 is certainly no slouch, but given that I was in store for an ARC calibration in my near future, I was most excited to see what a reputable room correction software could offer above what I was already liking.

The next day, I was able to run a full calibration and was blown away with what I was hearing. For the record, I run a 2009 MacBook and had absolutely zero issues downloading the firmware upgrade and ARC Genesis software. Likewise, I had zero issues running said software and tweaking advanced settings to my liking. ARC is a little different from other software that I have experienced from Yamaha and Integra (YPAO & Audyssey specifically). For anyone that has any sort of knowhow about electronics, particularly home theater setup, the program is extremely intuitive.

My speakers and room have never sounded better. Initially, my goal was to keep my Sunfire and connect it to the pre outs from the MRX-1120. I'm currently about 99.9% committed to selling both my Yamaha AND Sunfire because the amps of the MRX-1120 are THAT good! Couple that with the very high efficiency of my Paradigms and it's a win-win situation. Due to the exchange rate with Canada, and what I saved off of MSRP for this brand new unit, I'll actually make a handsome profit by selling my current separates. I know there are several folks that will vote separates over a single AVR any day, and twice on Sunday, but I'm a firm believer in the MRX-1120 and all it has to offer. If, for some reason, I ever get a hair up my butt to want to add Anthem external amplification, that option is viable. I am a firm believer in Anthem now that I have brought their tech into my home.

Just a few more comments about the sound quality of the MRX-1120 because it certainly deserves the merits. If I could use a single word to describe the sound, it would be cinematic. Seriously, this unit creates a wall of sound that is so immersive, cohesive, powerful and TIGHT! The integration of my subwoofer and speakers have never been better. I was constantly tweaking my Yamaha to find that sweet spot between movies and music. Being a "tweaker" though, I continue to mess with the bass and subwoofer level, but that's more out of curiosity and not necessity. There's also the overall cohesion with the surround and height speakers that just makes watching movies a blast. It also makes music listening sessions longer. So smooth, detailed and engaging. 2 channel listening is so wonderful! I, honestly, can't praise this unit enough.

If you can't already tell, I'm very excited about the addition of the MRX-1120 to my stable of electronic toys. I was back and forth about pursuing an Anthem to go with my Paradigms since I acquired my speakers about 6 months ago. I'm so glad I did. considering the law of diminishing returns, I think I have finally found my sweet spot of audio nirvana. I can't say I've had that feeling EVER in my system. The fact that I'm also Canadian and representing my home theater with goods from the motherland is just a bonus!

In closing, I have spent may hours combing through this thread, this forum, assorted reviews, and the like, before committing to this purchase. I would like to thank all of you that have provided your impressions, experiences, trouble shooting issues, etc. These forums are such amazing resources for potential buyers and I feel it my responsibility to pay it forward to future hopefuls looking for another insight/experience.

Happy listening and cheers!

Paradigm Prestige 95F Fronts, Paradigm Prestige 55C Center, Paradigm Prestige 25S Surrounds/Rear Surrounds, Klipsch RP-500SA Front Heights, Power Sound Audio S3611 Subwoofer, Anthem MRX-1120, VPI Super Prime Scout w/ Kiseki Blue cart, Schiit Mani and Pho 701 phono stages, Oppo BDP 103 Universal Blu Ray Player, Xbox 360, Xbox One S, Apple TV 4K, TCL 75R615 Roku TV
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post #7758 of 9208 Old 06-06-2019, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iliasmd View Post
I am planning to get ANthem MCA 225 to run my electrostatic speakers. Do you guys this will have enough power to drive these speakers or should i look fro different options?



Impedance"4 Ohms, 1.2 at 20kHz Compatible with 4, 6, or 8 Ohm rated amplifiers.

Nominal: 4 ohms

Minimum: 1.2 ohms @ 20 kHz "

Recommended Amplifier Power20—400 watts per channel
Should be good to go MCA 225 will do 600 at 2 ohm

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post #7759 of 9208 Old 06-07-2019, 09:43 AM
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The next day, I was able to run a full calibration and was blown away with what I was hearing. For the record, I run a 2009 MacBook and had absolutely zero issues downloading the firmware upgrade and ARC Genesis software. Likewise, I had zero issues running said software and tweaking advanced settings to my liking. ARC is a little different from other software that I have experienced from Yamaha and Integra (YPAO & Audyssey specifically). For anyone that has any sort of knowhow about electronics, particularly home theater setup, the program is extremely intuitive.
Curious as to what settings you tweaked in the advanced setting for your liking? and the reasoning? Thanks Mike
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post #7760 of 9208 Old 06-07-2019, 01:13 PM
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critical audio issue running genesys

So, I have my AVM 60, running my Macbook Pro and latest SW downloaded today. Also dld and installed latest FW.

Genesys starts, finds my AVM60 and starts running sweeps, but after anything from 1 to 10 sweeps it stops and says it had a critical audio problem and to check the mic and cables. Mic and ables are plugged in, connected etc. Have the right cal file for the mic. It works to do just simple quick measure, but not when running genesis to do a calibration.

Using a wired network as AVM60 wireless is still kind of sketchy... Have run ARC multiple times on an old Windows laptop with no real issues.

I just dld and installed the latest beta version (.8908) and same thing keep happening.

7.2.4 system:
Anthem AVM60, Focal Micro Utopia BE, Krell 402e mains, M1Sig centre, Mites SB, Sur., Paradigm P80R heights. 2X Anthem MCA-50s, Totem Storm subs APC J15, heavily modded Rega RP6

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post #7761 of 9208 Old 06-07-2019, 04:59 PM
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The fact that I'm also Canadian and representing my home theater with goods from the motherland is just a bonus!
Absolutely! I'm currently running B&Ws (although my sub is still Paradigm), so I'm still at least representing the Commonwealth . When it comes time to upgrade I'll likely go with Paradigm again (had them before getting my B&Ws).

The value we get buying Canadian even when paying in Canadian dollars is still superb. I picked up my MRX 720 for what amounted to $1,700 US.
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post #7762 of 9208 Old 06-07-2019, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KB007 View Post
So, I have my AVM 60, running my Macbook Pro and latest SW downloaded today. Also dld and installed latest FW.

Genesys starts, finds my AVM60 and starts running sweeps, but after anything from 1 to 10 sweeps it stops and says it had a critical audio problem and to check the mic and cables. Mic and ables are plugged in, connected etc. Have the right cal file for the mic. It works to do just simple quick measure, but not when running genesis to do a calibration.

Using a wired network as AVM60 wireless is still kind of sketchy... Have run ARC multiple times on an old Windows laptop with no real issues.

I just dld and installed the latest beta version (.8908) and same thing keep happening.
There does seem to be an Apple issue with Genesis. I've had no issue on Windows with the second version and beta version.

Video: JVC RS620/X9500 projector, Stewart ST130 screen, Panasonic ub820 UHD player
Audio: Anthem AVM60 preamp, Anthem MCA525 amp, B&K Reference 125.7 amp
Subs: dual SVS PC-12 cylinders
Speakers: RBH SV-661R and SV-661CR fronts, Jamo 626k4 side/rear surrounds, DefTech DI6.5R heights
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post #7763 of 9208 Old 06-07-2019, 07:14 PM
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I took the advice of reading manual to change inputs on my 1120. Unfortunately I am still clueless and can use some help. A friend came over on Monday and said I should be listening to music with just my two fronts and sub so he added a input 7 and it’s set for that. The dealer had it set for my choice of all 9 speakers and sub,and a setting for 3 front speakers and sub. He had another setting for front 3 plus rear surround and bass. I have no idea how to find that input with all those options.
I really want to go back to at least the option of two floor speakers and my center speaker and sub
I just set up an input 8 with what I think is Anthem logic as I have no idea how to get back to dealer settings. Only problem is it is still playing without the center speaker, only front two speakers and sub
I would greatly appreciate a few clues on how to configure the new input I created or how to get back to dealer settings
Thanks
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post #7764 of 9208 Old 06-08-2019, 01:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bittermidget View Post
The DAC in both units are high quality, but keep in mind that like others have mentioned, using ARC means this analog signal gets digitized before D/A conversion in the Anthem. In addition, my understanding is that if you connect a subwoofer via the Anthem sub outs, the Anthem also digitizes the input signal for the crossover, again adding another A/D and D/A stage.

Personally, I would connect the Node 2i via coaxial or toslink digital and let the Anthem do the work in your situation (a home theater with sub and multiple channels).

On a related note, I have a good friend with Magnepan 3.7, Musical Fidelity Tri-Vista integrated, and a Bluesound Vault 2. He is running the Bluesound analog outputs into the Tri-Vista. The sound of the Bluesound DAC does not limit the sound whatsover compared to using his Oppo BDP 95 DAC. So if you ever need to use the DAC in the NODE 2i, I doubt you would be disappointed.
With AVRs I've always prescribed to the general rule of 'leave it in the digital domain as long as possible'.

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Headphone Rig: Oppo BDP-95, Burson Audio Soloist MKII Headphone amp/ Sennheiser HD800S, Sennheiser HD650
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post #7765 of 9208 Old 06-08-2019, 08:38 AM
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Can it be better in stereo without ARC? At least that's the case with me. I have a couple B & W 705 S2.
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post #7766 of 9208 Old 06-08-2019, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by bokap View Post
I took the advice of reading manual to change inputs on my 1120. Unfortunately I am still clueless and can use some help. A friend came over on Monday and said I should be listening to music with just my two fronts and sub so he added a input 7 and it’s set for that. The dealer had it set for my choice of all 9 speakers and sub,and a setting for 3 front speakers and sub. He had another setting for front 3 plus rear surround and bass. I have no idea how to find that input with all those options.

I really want to go back to at least the option of two floor speakers and my center speaker and sub

I just set up an input 8 with what I think is Anthem logic as I have no idea how to get back to dealer settings. Only problem is it is still playing without the center speaker, only front two speakers and sub

I would greatly appreciate a few clues on how to configure the new input I created or how to get back to dealer settings

Thanks
You can run correction and setup different profiles for different reasons. Like a profile just for movies and just for 2 channel with sub. Or if you have good speakers you can do 2 channel no sub. When you run room correction before you start you have 4 profiles. They can be setup the way you want them to play then run correction. If you don't spec what speakers you want in each one they all default to the same as the first profile. I would name each one so you know what the profiles do. Upload it then go into input settings. Set the appropriate profile for the corresponding input. This will take some time as it will be measuring multiple profiles not just copying the original to the rest.



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post #7767 of 9208 Old 06-08-2019, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bokap View Post
I took the advice of reading manual to change inputs on my 1120. Unfortunately I am still clueless and can use some help. A friend came over on Monday and said I should be listening to music with just my two fronts and sub so he added a input 7 and it’s set for that. The dealer had it set for my choice of all 9 speakers and sub,and a setting for 3 front speakers and sub. He had another setting for front 3 plus rear surround and bass. I have no idea how to find that input with all those options.
I really want to go back to at least the option of two floor speakers and my center speaker and sub
I just set up an input 8 with what I think is Anthem logic as I have no idea how to get back to dealer settings. Only problem is it is still playing without the center speaker, only front two speakers and sub
I would greatly appreciate a few clues on how to configure the new input I created or how to get back to dealer settings
Thanks
So it looks like you have inputs set up for various speaker setups:
2.1
3.1
9.1

You did not mention which source goes to which input. So here's some general info that might be useful.
If the source is 2-ch, it will play in L/R/Sub from any of these speaker setups, and will use additional speakers within a setup if you have any sort of upmixing enabled (Dolby Surround, Anthem Logic, etc).

Any speaker setup can be changed without using the computer. Go to Setup, Speaker Setup, choose 1 of 4 "Profile Names" to open.

Any input can adopt any speaker setup. Go to Setup, Input Setup, choose the input, select Profile Name. Choose from 4 options.

Any input can be programmed to apply any upmixer, or none. Go to Setup, Input Setup, select the input, scroll down to see Mode Presets for stereo and multi-channel sources. Each can have an upmix process set.

Any input will allow you to change the upmix mode on the fly, but this is not sticky, it's there until you change sources or restart the unit. Press Mode on the remote. It will display the source and current upmix mode. Use Up/Down arrows to choose other available options. The list varies depending on the source.

Hope this helps.
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Deadwood II Theater (Previous Deadwood Theater HTOM)
Anthem AVM 60 7.4.4; Classé SSP-800 PLIIx 7.4; MiniDSP OpenDRC-AN
Oppo UDP-203; Oppo BDP-93; Win10 media PC w/Roon+Kodi; Roku Ultra; DirecTV Genie
Adam Audio S3V/S3H LCR, KEF Ci200QS 4 srrnd, Tannoy Di6 DC 4 hts, Hsu ULS-15 4 subs
JVC RS520; Stewart Cima Neve screen 125" diag 2.35:1, MLP at 115"
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post #7768 of 9208 Old 06-08-2019, 10:24 AM
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Thanks, this is helpful. I will see if I can make the proper adjustments. Thanks again
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post #7769 of 9208 Old 06-08-2019, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post
So it looks like you have inputs set up for various speaker setups:
2.1
3.1
9.1

You did not mention which source goes to which input. So here's some general info that might be useful.
If the source is 2-ch, it will play in L/R/Sub from any of these speaker setups, and will use additional speakers within a setup if you have any sort of upmixing enabled (Dolby Surround, Anthem Logic, etc).

Any speaker setup can be changed without using the computer. Go to Setup, Speaker Setup, choose 1 of 4 "Profile Names" to open.

Any input can adopt any speaker setup. Go to Setup, Input Setup, choose the input, select Profile Name. Choose from 4 options.

Any input can be programmed to apply any upmixer, or none. Go to Setup, Input Setup, select the input, scroll down to see Mode Presets for stereo and multi-channel sources. Each can have an upmix process set.

Any input will allow you to change the upmix mode on the fly, but this is not sticky, it's there until you change sources or restart the unit. Press Mode on the remote. It will display the source and current upmix mode. Use Up/Down arrows to choose other available options. The list varies depending on the source.

Hope this helps.
Your instructions are excellent. I am now back to using center channel for listening to music with two fronts and sub.
I was not sure which music option to use. I chose Anthem logic but have no idea if that is right. Which option do you recommend? Thanks again
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post #7770 of 9208 Old 06-08-2019, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bokap View Post
Your instructions are excellent. I am now back to using center channel for listening to music with two fronts and sub.
I was not sure which music option to use. I chose Anthem logic but have no idea if that is right. Which option do you recommend? Thanks again
Good work!

As for which upmixer, that all depends on the content (stereo TV vs. stereo music) and what sounds best to you. There's no right or wrong.
Note in the Dolby Surround mode, you can toggle the Center Width on/off with another push of the Mode button, then ^ or v. This option only exists when the source is 2/0.

Deadwood II Theater (Previous Deadwood Theater HTOM)
Anthem AVM 60 7.4.4; Classé SSP-800 PLIIx 7.4; MiniDSP OpenDRC-AN
Oppo UDP-203; Oppo BDP-93; Win10 media PC w/Roon+Kodi; Roku Ultra; DirecTV Genie
Adam Audio S3V/S3H LCR, KEF Ci200QS 4 srrnd, Tannoy Di6 DC 4 hts, Hsu ULS-15 4 subs
JVC RS520; Stewart Cima Neve screen 125" diag 2.35:1, MLP at 115"
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