Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers - Page 326 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9751 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 07:39 AM
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Hey guys, my android box doesn't seem to work well with Prime Video (video is dark), while my LG OLEDB6 looks fine with Prime using its own smart TV app.

So when I watch any of the SmartTV options on my LG (Netflix or Prime), I'd like to send the audio via the ARC channel to my AVM60. But for the life of me, I can't get it to work. Right now I have the Main Display Out with ARC going to my TV's HDMI 2 (which is the one with ARC). In the TV's menu I've turned on CEC and the audio out is set to HDMI.

On my AVM60, I've also turned on CEC control. But I am not sure what to do as it relates to the input section of the AVM60. My HDMI 1 through 3 are used for my Cable box, Android Box and BlueRay player.

If I select say an unused input and select "Audio" as HDMI Arc, I am unable to select a Video Input, which I think makes sense since I assume that the AVM60 assumes the video is coming from the TV itself and therefore the Dislplay Out with ARC. But no picture or audio comes up on the LG.

I've tried a few different things, but either can't get video or can't get audio, or both. Is there something simple I'm missing here?

 

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post #9752 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by madrac View Post
Which HDMI cables are you using? Have you tried replugging them or different cables?
Hi, my post is referring to the small LCD screen on the actual processor itself. The AVM60 small screen has random lines that appear like lightning strikes. I would say that if anything it would be the power cable but not HDMI related. An HDMI cable would be issues with my OLED TV screen and I don't have any issues there.
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post #9753 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 08:57 AM
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Thanks for confirming this. I have had a really bad strand of bad luck lately and this just adds to it. If the display is dim it almost looks like a small lightning strike in different areas. It seems to do it quite often. Sometimes as frequently as every 15 seconds or so. It sounds like I might have to get a replacement unit since I just purchased this a week ago .

Yeah, that's a bummer. Did you buy locally? Probably the fastest way to take care of it - take it back to the dealer so they can confirm, then likely Anthem will ship them a replacement unit. If you contact Anthem, they'll more than likely have them ship it back to them, and it'll take longer.

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post #9754 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
Yeah, that's a bummer. Did you buy locally? Probably the fastest way to take care of it - take it back to the dealer so they can confirm, then likely Anthem will ship them a replacement unit. If you contact Anthem, they'll more than likely have them ship it back to them, and it'll take longer.
Luckily I just purchased it from Crutchfield and they have great customer service. They were able to setup a replacement to be swapped out sometime this upcoming week! It is a bummer but hopefully this isn't too common with Anthem processors/AVRs and it was just some kind of defect in manufacturing.
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post #9755 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 12:10 PM
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I have just done my first ARC calibration and had a few questions. I'm used to audyssey xt32 so please bare with me.

First thing is that it doesn't specify if you should set speaker distances prior to running ARC?

Secondly, I have dual subwoofers and set their levels via SPL meter and set the correct phase of each sub prior to running anthem. Anthem ARC told me to turn down the subs during the process and would not let me continue until I turned them down? Is this normal?

The reason I ask the above question is because ARC has now set the processor Trim level to +5 for the subs after calibration. I know it is NEVER a good idea for the processor/AVR to be in the positive values for subwoofer. When I used Audyssey I would make sure the AVR put the sub in the -8 range. So why would ARC say my subs are too loud but then set them in positive? My understanding is it should be a negative value and then you adjust the sub after on the sub volume knob itself.

Do you need to set each speaker to 75db with an SPL meter PRIOR to running ARC?

ARC also has selected 200hz crossover for my front dolby atmos reflective Emotiva A1s (they sit on top of my towers). I usually set these to 100hz to 120hz in Audyssey, are you able to lower crossovers in the Anthem? I know you could on Audyssey AVRs but it was a BIG no no. You always wanted to higher crossovers if any in Audyssey AVRs.

Finally, I'm still trying to figure out what the proper distance should be set for 2 subwoofers in the room? Mine are on opposite corners of the room.

Thank you

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post #9756 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by iStorm View Post
I have just done my first ARC calibration and had a few questions. I'm used to audyssey xt32 so please bare with me.

First thing is that it doesn't specify if you should set speaker distances prior to running ARC?

Secondly, I have dual subwoofers and set their levels via SPL meter and set the correct phase of each sub prior to running anthem. Anthem ARC told me to turn down the subs during the process and would not let me continue until I turned them down? Is this normal?

The reason I ask the above question is because ARC has now set the processor Trim level to +5 for the subs after calibration. I know it is NEVER a good idea for the processor/AVR to be in the positive values for subwoofer. When I used Audyssey I would make sure the AVR put the sub in the -8 range. So why would ARC say my subs are too loud but then set them in positive? My understanding is it should be a negative value and then you adjust the sub after on the sub volume knob itself.

Do you need to set each speaker to 75db with an SPL meter PRIOR to running ARC?

ARC also has selected 200hz crossover for my front dolby atmos reflective Emotiva A1s (they sit on top of my towers). I usually set these to 100hz to 120hz in Audyssey, are you able to lower crossovers in the Anthem? I know you could on Audyssey AVRs but it was a BIG no no. You always wanted to higher crossovers if any in Audyssey AVRs.

Finally, I'm still trying to figure out what the proper distance should be set for 2 subwoofers in the room? Mine are on opposite corners of the room.

Thank you
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Distances - doesn't matter, either before or after. pg 20 in the manual (at least the copy I have for the 720).


Turning down volume - ARC will ask you to do this if they are too loud. For dual subs, independently set each to around 72 db. When both are on, should have around 75 db at the MLP. Or, measure your fronts and set the sub at same level or a db or two higher.



As to why they are positive after you turned them down, perhaps you turned them down too much. I, too, try to get the sub at zero +/- 2. I don't think you should adjust the volume on the sub after running room correction.


When you say each speaker, are you referring to all speakers or just the sub. Only the subs may need to be adjusted in my experience.


Yes, you can change the crossovers in the Anthem, in either Genesis before uploading or in the Anthem itself.


As to distance, I'd start with the average of both unless one is much further than the other, then use the greater distance.

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post #9757 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by pbc View Post
Hey guys, my android box doesn't seem to work well with Prime Video (video is dark), while my LG OLEDB6 looks fine with Prime using its own smart TV app.

So when I watch any of the SmartTV options on my LG (Netflix or Prime), I'd like to send the audio via the ARC channel to my AVM60. But for the life of me, I can't get it to work. Right now I have the Main Display Out with ARC going to my TV's HDMI 2 (which is the one with ARC). In the TV's menu I've turned on CEC and the audio out is set to HDMI.

On my AVM60, I've also turned on CEC control. But I am not sure what to do as it relates to the input section of the AVM60. My HDMI 1 through 3 are used for my Cable box, Android Box and BlueRay player.

If I select say an unused input and select "Audio" as HDMI Arc, I am unable to select a Video Input, which I think makes sense since I assume that the AVM60 assumes the video is coming from the TV itself and therefore the Dislplay Out with ARC. But no picture or audio comes up on the LG.

I've tried a few different things, but either can't get video or can't get audio, or both. Is there something simple I'm missing here?
In the AVM 60 menu, have you set your TV input to HDMI ARC for Audio Input?

EDIT
Can't remember for sure. After setting the Audio Input to HDMI ARC, it may be necessary to power everything down. I remember it being a little finicky but not all the details. It does work with the gear in my sig but with LG, I don't know.


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Last edited by Bill-99; 05-24-2020 at 01:18 PM.
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post #9758 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by madrac View Post
iStorm


Distances - doesn't matter, either before or after. pg 20 in the manual (at least the copy I have for the 720).


Turning down volume - ARC will ask you to do this if they are too loud. For dual subs, independently set each to around 72 db. When both are on, should have around 75 db at the MLP. Or, measure your fronts and set the sub at same level or a db or two higher.



As to why they are positive after you turned them down, perhaps you turned them down too much. I, too, try to get the sub at zero +/- 2. I don't think you should adjust the volume on the sub after running room correction.


When you say each speaker, are you referring to all speakers or just the sub. Only the subs may need to be adjusted in my experience.


Yes, you can change the crossovers in the Anthem, in either Genesis before uploading or in the Anthem itself.


As to distance, I'd start with the average of both unless one is much further than the other, then use the greater distance.
Hey there and thank you so much for replying on a weekend!

For my dual subwoofer setup I have one subwoofer nearfield in the right corner next to our 2 seater theater chairs. The other is on the front stage in the left corner of room (diagonal subs). So the one closest to MLP is 4 feet 3 inches and the other is 11 feet 4 inches. So maybe make the distance 11 feet inside the AVM60?

We tried to continue the auto calibration with the sub turned up a bit but it wouldn't let us go forward so we opted for the professional ARC calibration and it let us go forward. It still put the trim at +5 for subwoofer. So I'm assuming we need to just keep adjusting sub volume on both equally until it puts the trim at either 0 after ARC or in the negatives by 1 or 2?

When I spoke about all trims being positive I was referring to after ARC calibration. All of the speakers including the sub are at +2 to +6. This won't damage the speakers? With Denon XT32 calibration my levels were always negative values for all speakers including subwoofer after calibration inside the receiver.

After ARC calibration we used the ADJUST TARGETS and changed a few things. We made sure all speakers were set to 80hz, front reflecting atmos speakers were set to 190hz so we changed it to 120hz, Room gain adjusted to +6db (was at +3.625db), changed subwoofer Low Frequency Extension slope from Flat to 4th order. It defaulted the high frequency extension to 150hz, low frequency extension to 15hz, and the minimum correction frequency to 15hz.

Thanks for any help!
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post #9759 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill-99 View Post
In the AVM 60 menu, have you set your TV input to HDMI ARC for Audio Input?

EDIT
Can't remember for sure. After setting the Audio Input to HDMI ARC, it may be necessary to power everything down. I remember it being a little finicky but not all the details. It does work with the gear in my sig but with LG, I don't know.
I used an open input and when I select ARC as the audio input it forces the Video Input to None which I think makes sense since the tv display is connected to the Display Out with Arc.

So there is no "TV input" sort of thing.

At one point I was not getting audio from any input and had to turn it off and on. Will try again later I guess. Weird.

 

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post #9760 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 01:39 PM
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To add to my last post I want to ask this: what db level should the subwoofers be set to under the level calibration to use the test noise to adjust the subwoofer volumes on the subs to get a reading of 75db using an SPL meter? Right now, with the Dolby offset set at 0db and the subwoofer set at 0db for the test noise under the level calibration, our back sub is at a volume of -23 and our front sub is at a volume of-21, and the SPL meter is reading them at 87db, which we know isn't how ARC sees them because they're at 75db or lower on ARC (71db each since we have dual subs). Any help would be appreciated. thanks
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post #9761 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 01:48 PM
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I used an open input and when I select ARC as the audio input it forces the Video Input to None which I think makes sense since the tv display is connected to the Display Out with Arc.

So there is no "TV input" sort of thing.

At one point I was not getting audio from any input and had to turn it off and on. Will try again later I guess. Weird.
Sorry, my brain isn't apparently working at full capacity it seems.

If I understand your scenario, you are trying to get audio off of your TV while running a native app, yes? If so, the audio is originating on your TV coming in over HDMI. I think that requires a TV Input to be setup on the AVM 60, or at least that's what I did. I will go try the native apps again on my TV to confirm. BRB

EDIT
Yep, that works. One other thing to check. Is the HDMI cable from your TV to the AVM 60 connected to HDMI Out 1 on the AVM 60? That's the one that understands the audio return channel.


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post #9762 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 02:33 PM
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This is literally driving me nuts guys... Surely someone else has had this issue with ARC.

We have dual subwoofers and are trying to calibrate with ARC. This probably applies to those who have 1 subwoofer as well so please listen if you have one as well.

ARC keeps saying that our subs are too loud when trying to calibrate. I thought that the Anthem ARC wants the "sub" to be at 75db prior to calibrating? If I use the Quick Measure function of ARC and set the dual subs to 75db, it says it is too hot. It only will calibrate the system and continue if I have the dual subs at 72db COMBINED.

We have tried to do it so that we turn the subwoofer volumes down to just under where they want them and running the full ARC calibration. If we do this, it puts the final Subwoofer Trim Level to +5. How? Why? I do not get this at all and it is extremely frustrating. The Subwoofer Trim should NEVER be + inside of a processor or AVR. So it says that the subs are too hot to run the ARC calibration but then when we turn them down just a little bit, it makes the trim level +5? This makes zero sense!

Hopefully someone can shed some light on this for us. I could manually go inside the processor afterwards and change it from +5 to 0 or -1 and then turn up the volume on the subwoofers, but this should not be like this!

Please help me understand and share your experiences where ARC has put your trim level inside your processor or AVR (Mine is the AVM60 running the latest firmware from Anthem's website).

Thanks much!
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post #9763 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 02:35 PM
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What's the problem with having the subwoofer trim at +5?


My current setup.
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post #9764 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 02:42 PM
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I did not make a note at the time, but when selecting the DD soundtrack the Anthem is already in DSU mode -- perhaps because that is the default mode I have set for stereo audio. I did not try settinf the default to None to see what would happen -- maybe the Lt/Rt flag would intervene? Yes, somehow the DD track can be heard in 2-ch stereo if one wants, but the DTS track refuses to allow that.

If I understand correctly, are you saying that even in DSU mode, the DD track isn't being properly decoded (i.e. it's coming out only as 2-channel)? Are you able to see which mode (if any) on your Athem will decode the DD track on Dave? I would try to test it out on my end, but I can't easily identify any discs in my collection that have a Dolby 2.0 track with an Lt/Rt mix.

Quote:
Just to add to the mystery, when I apply either Neural:X or DSU to these Dave tracks, there is nothing from the height speakers. But if I set the player to output 2.0 PCM, then these modes both create height speaker signals -- the difference is not subtle. From this very limited test, the presumed presence of Lt/Rt flags appear to activate a decoding mode more in keeping with the theatrical result -- no height outputs -- than one would get when doing standard upmixing. Clever!

I had not realized that these "immersive" upmixers have a special "surround decoding" mode activated by the Lt/Rt flag that better suits the intent of the original mix.
Clever indeed! This probably ties in with the distinction you were making earlier between upmixing and decoding. The way I understand it, PCM wouldn't carry the Lt/Rt flag so it probably gets stripped away when you set the player to output PCM. I guess Neural:X and DSU first look for the flag to see if anything needs to be decoded (and consequently respect the original Lt/Rt mix). If nothing is identified, it goes full upmixing mode to every available channel.
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post #9765 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 02:59 PM
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If I understand correctly, are you saying that even in DSU mode, the DD track isn't being properly decoded (i.e. it's coming out only as 2-channel)? Are you able to see which mode (if any) on your Athem will decode the DD track on Dave?
DSU mode means DSU is operating, and if the source is flagged Lt/Rt it decodes all the base later channels but heights remain silent -- which is how it should be from an original artistic intent perspective.

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I would try to test it out on my end, but I can't easily identify any discs in my collection that have a Dolby 2.0 track with an Lt/Rt mix.
Try any movie released after 1977 that does not have a 5.1 track. Can confirm the original theatrical format at IMDB -- look for Dolby Stereo.

Am just now watching Back To The Future III on Netflix. The AVM reports 2.0 PCM (even though a 5.1 version exists on DVD/BD), and it is apparently not flagged Lt/Rt in the bitstream (probably AAC, it's not DD/DD+). With DSU it outputs height channels. Sound perfectly fine.

Quote:
This probably ties in with the distinction you were making earlier between upmixing and decoding. The way I understand it, PCM wouldn't carry the Lt/Rt flag so it probably gets stripped away when you set the player to output PCM. I guess Neural:X and DSU first look for the flag to see if anything needs to be decoded (and consequently respect the original Lt/Rt mix). If nothing is identified, it goes full upmixing mode to every available channel.
Right, PCM has no such flags, and yes the DD/DTS decoders look for Lt/Rt flags (and sometimes others) that may be of interest either to the coder decoder or to post-processing.
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post #9766 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 03:49 PM
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iStorm - which version of ARC Genesis are you using? I'd recommend either 9006 or the current beta 1.2.2. If you read through this thread and/or the dedicated Genesis thread, you'll see that several versions of Genesis set speakers way to hot.



I don't think +2 - +6 is too bad. Below are my current trims. I used Genesis Quick Measure to set my sub at 75 db at MLP. I'm not surprised the fronts are at +3-+4 as they were measuring 72 db +/- with QM.



If you want everything <=0, you could always manually adjust each channel down an equal amount.





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post #9767 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 04:17 PM
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iStorm - which version of ARC Genesis are you using? I'd recommend either 9006 or the current beta 1.2.2. If you read through this thread and/or the dedicated Genesis thread, you'll see that several versions of Genesis set speakers way to hot.



I don't think +2 - +6 is too bad. Below are my current trims. I used Genesis Quick Measure to set my sub at 75 db at MLP. I'm not surprised the fronts are at +3-+4 as they were measuring 72 db +/- with QM.



If you want everything <=0, you could always manually adjust each channel down an equal amount.




Hi,

I'm using the latest ARC genesis from their website which is version 1.1.1.9105. I'm going to download their BETA 1.2.2.2 now. I really would prefer if the calibration set the subs properly in the negative values (0db at the least) because it literally makes no sense to say I'm running it too hot and ARC cannot continue until I turn them down. Then I try to turn one down 1 volume notch and it still won't continue. Then I turn the other sub down 1 volume notch and it runs. So basically it is saying I'm running the subs as hot as it will allow to continue running ARC. Then the end result is setting my Trim inside the receiver to +5? I understand my regular speakers being in the + value trim wise but I was always advised to NEVER run subwoofer AVR trim to the positive values. If you feel the need to crank the sub up more after calibration it would be done on the subwoofer volume itself.

Thanks for any insight.

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post #9768 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
What's the problem with having the subwoofer trim at +5?
Hi there, since you didn't quote me I didn't see the message. All of the subwoofer manufacturers I have ever seen have never suggested to have an AVR subwoofer trim in the positives. This is coming directly from SVS who are the makers of my subwoofers. It can lead to clipping and distortion and also damage to the subwoofer is what I understand. When I had a Denon receiver, we would always use XT32 and it was recommended to keep the Subwoofer trim at -5 and then any further adjustments would be done on the subwoofer itself. This was especially to keep the sub from clipping. It is just a precaution thing. I'm sure you "can" run it at +5 or in the positives but it is not recommended for the subwoofer itself. I know other speakers in the system it is perfectly fine though. I am not an expert, which is why I use these forums and speak directly to my speaker manufacturers. If you have a different brand sub you could ask your subwoofer manufacturer, but SVS told me to not ever have the AVR/processor Subwoofer trim in the positives . Always keep it in the negatives if you can and I'm sure 0 is fine as well.
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post #9769 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 08:14 PM
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Mine flickers too. Doesn’t have any affect on performance.

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I don't have the 60 but I do have 720 which is the same platform as the 60 and the display does not flicker one bit. Your 60's display should be rock solid and not flicker.
Thanks for confirming this. I have had a really bad strand of bad luck lately and this just adds to it. If the display is dim it almost looks like a small lightning strike in different areas. It seems to do it quite often. Sometimes as frequently as every 15 seconds or so. It sounds like I might have to get a replacement unit since I just purchased this a week ago [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif[/IMG].

I love my iPhone, but it will never replace my turntable. I've never seen Titanic OR XXXXXXXXX.

The Cinema 1858 Remodel Thread
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post #9770 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 08:23 PM
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Mine flickers too. Doesn’t have any affect on performance.
Ouch. This is very sad to hear. I thought it was just a crazy defect on mine. It is really annoying during a movie with the receiver set to dim. My concern is the screen is eventually going to go out. I would recommend to get yours replaced like I am doing with mine. Again, it is very sad to hear that a processor costing this kind of money has a flickering LCD display screen. This isn't the build quality I would expect from Anthem (AVM60 model).
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post #9771 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 08:25 PM
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I guess I should probably contact them but I don’t look at it. It’s in the back of the room and I never look at it. I’ve only noticed it while doing other setup things.

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Mine flickers too. Doesn&#226;€&#x2122;&#xfe0f;t have any affect on performance.
Ouch. This is very sad to hear. I thought it was just a crazy defect on mine. It is really annoying during a movie with the receiver set to dim. My concern is the screen is eventually going to go out. I would recommend to get yours replaced like I am doing with mine. Again, it is very sad to hear that a processor costing this kind of money has a flickering LCD display screen. This isn't the build quality I would expect from Anthem (AVM60 model).

I love my iPhone, but it will never replace my turntable. I've never seen Titanic OR XXXXXXXXX.

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post #9772 of 10087 Old 05-24-2020, 08:27 PM
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I guess I should probably contact them but I don’t look at it. It’s in the back of the room and I never look at it. I’ve only noticed it while doing other setup things.
I understand that but it is still defective so definitely use your warranty. I hope my next one doesnt have this defect. The processor is great so far other than this!
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post #9773 of 10087 Old 05-25-2020, 08:27 AM
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I used an open input and when I select ARC as the audio input it forces the Video Input to None which I think makes sense since the tv display is connected to the Display Out with Arc.

So there is no "TV input" sort of thing.

At one point I was not getting audio from any input and had to turn it off and on. Will try again later I guess. Weird.
I finally dug out my notes on this, so perhaps starting from the beginning is appropriate.

Here's what I did to get the audio return channel working for over-the-air TV and SmartApps.

On the TV: Connect your HDMI cable to the HDMI port that supports ARC. They are often labelled as such but the owners manual may be necessary. Also, enable HDMI-CEC on the TV. On my TV it's called "Anynet+(HDMI-CEC)".

On the AVM 60: Connect the HDMI cable from the TV to the port labelled "HDMI OUT1 ARC". In the configuration menus under General Configuration set CEC Control to ON. Next, go to Input Setup and create an input. It can be called pretty much anything meaningful to you. I used "TV". Set Video Input to None and Audio Input to HDMI ARC.

Last step. Power down your home theater. Then start it back up. Select your input on the AVM 60 and confirm the TV is using the HDMI port that supports ARC.

Through some ugly debugging sessions, I've found that with some gear, the order in which components power up can affect the results. That might be something to try if the problems persist.
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post #9774 of 10087 Old 05-25-2020, 08:39 AM
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I finally dug out my notes on this, so perhaps starting from the beginning is appropriate.

Here's what I did to get the audio return channel working for over-the-air TV and SmartApps.

On the TV: Connect your HDMI cable to the HDMI port that supports ARC. They are often labelled as such but the owners manual may be necessary. Also, enable HDMI-CEC on the TV. On my TV it's called "Anynet+(HDMI-CEC)".

On the AVM 60: Connect the HDMI cable from the TV to the port labelled "HDMI OUT1 ARC". In the configuration menus under General Configuration set CEC Control to ON. Next, go to Input Setup and create an input. It can be called pretty much anything meaningful to you. I used "TV". Set Video Input to None and Audio Input to HDMI ARC.

Last step. Power down your home theater. Then start it back up. Select your input on the AVM 60 and confirm the TV is using the HDMI port that supports ARC.

Through some ugly debugging sessions, I've found that with some gear, the order in which components power up can affect the results. That might be something to try if the problems persist.
Thanks for the detailed write up Bill! I think I did all of that, but now can't recall if I powered everything off and on or just the AVR, etc. So finicky. will give it a go later today.

 

My DIY Subs ... https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1233892

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post #9775 of 10087 Old 05-25-2020, 08:58 AM
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The ATV does a different kind of Atmos than just about any other device.

Disks typically use Dolby TrueHD to transport it and the meta data makes it Atmos.

Streaming typically uses Dolby Digital Plus, with meta data.

The ATV uses PCM with a layer of Atmos meta data.

But it should still say Atmos on the receiver in all three cases.
It does say Atmos on the receiver however I get no sound. Same thing happens when I try to use the Netflix app on my Oled TV which does Atmos as well, says Atmos on the receiver but no sound. To get sound from either source have to switch the mode to PCM. Discs however do not have this issue. Strange.
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post #9776 of 10087 Old 05-25-2020, 09:26 AM
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It does say Atmos on the receiver however I get no sound. Same thing happens when I try to use the Netflix app on my Oled TV which does Atmos as well, says Atmos on the receiver but no sound. To get sound from either source have to switch the mode to PCM. Discs however do not have this issue. Strange.
Sorry to hear that! I'm at a loss for what could be the problem in that case.


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post #9777 of 10087 Old 05-25-2020, 09:27 AM
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Thanks for the detailed write up Bill! I think I did all of that, but now can't recall if I powered everything off and on or just the AVR, etc. So finicky. will give it a go later today.
I'll mention a couple of things that might help.

Timing could be crucial. I use a Harmony remote on the main system (in the signature) and everything works there. A second system in an exercise room has an MRX 520 and a Sony 900E TV. Every morning it's the same drill:
- Turn on the system early in the morning for the first time. TV takes too long to come up from a cold start and reverts to built-in speakers, ignoring the audio return channel.
- Power down. Wait 10 seconds. Power back up. TV detects external AVR and uses it with the audio return channel.

I used the 520 in the main system for about a month while the AVM 60 was having a network card replaced. It never missed a beat. My opinion is that it's the Sony TV. It's annoying and there doesn't seem to be a work-around, so I live with it. It's probably no surprise that this will be my last Sony TV.


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post #9778 of 10087 Old 05-25-2020, 10:27 AM
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Welcome to the club. You may save yourself a ton of searching and trouble by watching this video. THIS is the proper way to setup multiple subs no matter the processor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_A6gPCczhuU&t=3679s
I finally watched this video and his part 8 video on how to calibrate dual subwoofers using REW.

My question is am I able to calibrate dual subwoofers with the Anthem ARC mic? I know for REW to work you want to input a "cal file" and I'm not sure if it is possible to download the cal file for this ARC mic. I also do not have a mini dsp so is it possible to do any of this WITHOUT a mini dsp? The whole video revolves around the mini dsp which is why I am asking.

Also, I dont understand what he means by gain matching. My subs are both identical and the only "gain " knob on my SVS Pb16ultras is the digital volume knob. Is he saying to put them both at like -20 volume and in the same place in the room, then adjust the volume on both to match the noise test inside our Anthem receivers?

Thanks for any more details. I'm really trying to get these dual subs dialed in. The latest beta software for ARC seems to have fixed running the subwoofer too hot.
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post #9779 of 10087 Old 05-25-2020, 01:03 PM
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In the case of Pro Logic II, it used the same core algorithm regardless of the source. I'm pretty sure the same is true for DSU.

The main difference between upmixing and surround decoding is how the source was prepared, not how the decoder works. Upmixing is applied to content in its finished form, 2.0, 5.1; decoding applies to content encoded a certain way for the purpose of being decoded. Encoder tools can offer the mix engineer specific ways to encode audio signals to evoke a specific result. This has to do with phase shifters for surround panning.

I just did some testing with "Dave" Blu-ray which has 2.0 tracks in both DTS and Dolby.

When the DD track (alt language) plays, the "None" option is absent, but when I select "Dolby Digital" as the mode instead of an upmixer, it plays in straight 2-ch stereo.

Switching to the DTS track offers a "DTS-HD Master" mode, but as we've seen it is still being upmixed. That's a question for Anthem.

Aside from that, I can confirm that DTS 2.0 bitstreams are able to carry an Lt/Rt flag. (See Part 3 of Blu-ray Disc spec.) Whether it does or not is something for MediaInfo to say. If there's no flag, Anthem is just assuming that 2.0 encoded audio ought to be upmixed -- rather presumptuous.
Wow....I had no idea that DSU looked for Lt/Rt flags. On a bit of a DSU tangent, I just saw this at Audioholics:

https://www.audioholics.com/audio-te...es/dolby-music

Center Spread is being removed from DSU?
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post #9780 of 10087 Old 05-25-2020, 01:17 PM
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Wow....I had no idea that DSU looked for Lt/Rt flags. On a bit of a DSU tangent, I just saw this at Audioholics:

https://www.audioholics.com/audio-te...es/dolby-music

Center Spread is being removed from DSU?
Yes. For further discussion see this recent post and the half dozen that follow.
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