Owner's Thread for Anthem 60, 720 and 1120 Receivers - Page 89 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2641 of 8329 Old 12-03-2016, 08:23 AM
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I had not done much music listening and what I did was from CD, I associated my iTunes library with PLEX and have been listening to music since 4am, (it's 9:20 now) and I am having the loss of the first tiny little bit of the beginning of songs.

My HTPC is connected to the AVR via HDMI from my video card and I know it did not do this with my Harman AVR3700. I remember someone reported this and am wondering if a fix were found?

Thanks


P.S. The Wife is out, it is at ear bleeding levels & IT FREAKING SOUNDS AMAZING!!!!

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post #2642 of 8329 Old 12-03-2016, 09:15 AM
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I've heard that there is a output boost from most gaming systems. Makes the gaming more "exciting" compared to watching TV. I don't know for sure if there is truth to that, and I know that you say that your old receiver didn't do that, but I just thought that I would throw that out there.

If you swap the connections from your sat box and PS3 (PS3 connected to the receiver where the sat box was, and vice versa) and the PS3 is still louder, then that should tell you that it is how the input devices themselves are configured.

How do you fix that? No idea unfortunately. I have a Dish box, HTPC, and stand alone blu-ray attached to my 1120 and don't have volume issues that great. I do have variance in volume levels for sure (my Dish box is actually a little quieter than the other two, but not a huge difference like you are getting).

I haven't looked, and I am not at home to try, but can you set different "boost" levels per input on the receiver? Again, never looked because it wasn't a big deal for me in my setup. If so, then you could bump up the other sources to match, and then just keep your master volume lower. I had an Onkyo (or was it my old Pioneer Elite) receiver that could do that...
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post #2643 of 8329 Old 12-03-2016, 09:24 AM
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Anthem new Receiver and Processor support Dolby Atmos and DTS:X

Denon has an "offset" for each input to address overly hot inputs. Check the Anthem for input level or something similar if desired. I haven't been bothered by anything enough to look into it.

Not trying to be a jerk, I would have to climb the stairs to check and my knee is killing me lately.


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post #2644 of 8329 Old 12-03-2016, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muffinmcfluffin View Post
Gotcha!

Going to keep running off questions as I have them...

My output when going on my PS3 source sounds nearly 10 dB louder than when on my DirecTV source. I'm using the same configuration settings for both (though PS3 I'm using a +3 dB bump in sub for movies), and the different was never this substantial on my other receiver to believe that there is a difference in internal settings between the two sources (all processing except "Dolby Surround" is disabled, though both are using DS). Three questions based off that:

1) Anyone else have as big of a jump in sound?

2) Anyone know the reason for this discrepancy?

3) I'd find it unfathomable to set my volume at 0 dB (reference) when watching a Blu-ray, given this. I haven't even crossed 15 dB yet. Because of the apparent difference in volume between sources, is it safe to say that somehow my PS3 is outputting something so loudly that now, say, 10 dB is reference for me instead?

I sholud put this one on film so you can understand the sound differences. It has never been this apparent before.


- - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


Which sound mode do ya'll use? I'm currently on Dolby Surround (though I have nothing to upmix at the moment), but I was wondering if None would be the most appropriate for straight/direct passthrough of the codec in ordinary non-upmixing circumstances.
For the input that is louder than the others, you could assign it a different speaker config that has all the trim levels turned down. Open your arc file in manual mode, go to Targets, and scroll over to the level tabs and adjust accordingly. Based on where your trim levels are currently set, you may need to do a combination of raising the trims in your main config and lowering them in the secondary config. If you're already using your four speaker configs then never mind.
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post #2645 of 8329 Old 12-03-2016, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post
I've heard that there is a output boost from most gaming systems. Makes the gaming more "exciting" compared to watching TV. I don't know for sure if there is truth to that, and I know that you say that your old receiver didn't do that, but I just thought that I would throw that out there.

If you swap the connections from your sat box and PS3 (PS3 connected to the receiver where the sat box was, and vice versa) and the PS3 is still louder, then that should tell you that it is how the input devices themselves are configured.
It's going to be no fun going back there to swap, so I'll just take your word that the PS3 is generally going to play louder on this thing.

Quote:
How do you fix that? No idea unfortunately. I have a Dish box, HTPC, and stand alone blu-ray attached to my 1120 and don't have volume issues that great. I do have variance in volume levels for sure (my Dish box is actually a little quieter than the other two, but not a huge difference like you are getting).

I haven't looked, and I am not at home to try, but can you set different "boost" levels per input on the receiver? Again, never looked because it wasn't a big deal for me in my setup. If so, then you could bump up the other sources to match, and then just keep your master volume lower. I had an Onkyo (or was it my old Pioneer Elite) receiver that could do that...
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Originally Posted by cvinfig View Post
For the input that is louder than the others, you could assign it a different speaker config that has all the trim levels turned down. Open your arc file in manual mode, go to Targets, and scroll over to the level tabs and adjust accordingly. Based on where your trim levels are currently set, you may need to do a combination of raising the trims in your main config and lowering them in the secondary config. If you're already using your four speaker configs then never mind.
Okay, so let's say that my PS3 input is exactly 10dB louder than my DirecTV setup, and let's say that DirecTV at 0.0dB is considered "reference" volume. Given that my current ARC setup has levels as follows (for both configs)...

SW: -4dB (@ -1dB on PS3 by choice)
FL: -4dB
C: -3dB
FR: -4dB

To prevent too much clipping, I suppose what I could do is boost my DTV levels up to...

SW: 0dB
FL: 0dB
C: +1dB
FR: 0dB

... and then move the PS3 levels down to...

SW: -7dB
FL: -10dB
C: -9dB
FR: -10dB

And set my max master volume to -4dB, does that seem like maxing out my volume would be "reference" across the board for both PS3 and DTV? Or is there anything else in the measurements that I must account for when it comes to raising/trimming levels?

Thanks a bunch! Now I gotta figure out exactly how many dB louder my PS3 is than my DTV, and I also gotta determine where reference is determined here.

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post #2646 of 8329 Old 12-03-2016, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by designmule View Post
This isn't specific to Anthem but I ran across this video recently which discusses several options.
Yeah I saw that video a few months ago when they released it. The way he says he hooks up his powered towers is exactly how i have always been doing it. Running LFE and full range on one config. Which i feel was optimal prior to my new sub as my previous didn't go as low.

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Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
Well as far as ARC goes, you need to calibrate everything on the LFE output as a single unit, ARC will do whatever is best for your room and the "subwoofer" (be it one, or multiple) in it. If you disconnect the 8060's and then connect them after measuring, you'll "break" the ARC solution since you'll be changing the output of the LFE channel. Take a look at any of the writeups on multiple subs for Anthem, the logic/process is all the same regardless of ARC version. There's a lot of great info in the D2V thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...ing-guide.html
Thx I will take a look at this. I figured that would be the case and it would essentially "break" the ARC. I just want t o make sure I'm getting the most out of my sub so if needed I'll just go full range and use the LFE on just the SVS and call it a day. May have to just run a few calibrations to see which is preferable.

@muffinmcfluffin I get that volume increase also with Xbox and PS4. I thought it was due to the decoding of the system sending it in bitstream and uncompressed. All of my sources have roughly the same output except my uverse box which is much lower.
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post #2647 of 8329 Old 12-03-2016, 10:17 AM
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I'm not sure I agree that the best way to treat the subs built into the towers as LFE is always the best solution. It might be the best way, but the subs built into the towers utilize passive radiators which are essentially ports. You could end up with some low frequency cancellation between the passive radiators and the true subwoofer.

On the other hand if you connect the subwoofers built into the mains such that they get low frequency information from the left and right channels, then let ARC set the high pass filter you might avoid that cancellation.

Honestly I think you are going to have to try it both ways, take some measurements, listen and see what works best in your space with your speakers.

I do agree that ARC will have to be re-run for either setup.
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post #2648 of 8329 Old 12-03-2016, 02:28 PM
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I switched back to FW 0.44 and now HDMI issues are improved but still a pain, Anthem if you are reading this I pray to the AV gods please do sort this mess out with handshakes it ruins an otherwise great experience.

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post #2649 of 8329 Old 12-03-2016, 07:28 PM
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Didn't we used to have someone from Anthem active in this thread until recently? D'oh...

Yeah, I think with Nick's departure, it will be unlikely that this thread gets a lot of their attention.
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post #2650 of 8329 Old 12-03-2016, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post
Didn't we used to have someone from Anthem active in this thread until recently? D'oh...

Yeah, I think with Nick's departure, it will be unlikely that this thread gets a lot of their attention.
I've been though the official channels already no one was able to help. Frustrating as hell. Nothing to do with this forum.

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post #2651 of 8329 Old 12-03-2016, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Bandyka View Post
...Anthem if you are reading this ....
Sorry, I must have misunderstood your statement above in that I thought that you were using your comment, here, in this forum, in hopes that Anthem would be reading it for some reason.


Seriously though, I understand your frustration. While I love the sound that I get from my 1120, it was SIGNIFICANTLY more expensive than any other receiver product I've ever owned, and I too have had issues. Buying a premium flagship production should not come with this many issues.

  1. My initial 1120 had a very loud "pop" after it would shut down that came from my rear right speaker. Had to jump through a number of hoops to get it replaced because Anthem support basically didn't believe that it was their problem (which is was and they finally got me swapped out.)
  2. Firmware versions seem to fix some things, but break others.
  3. We still don't have DTS:X when it seems like the rest of the world does.
  4. My 1120 now has a super deep "thud" sound from either one of the front speakers or my subs in the front of my theater during power off. I haven't isolated which it is because they are all behind my false wall and it just isn't something that I think about doing until I am done watching a movie (usually late at night) and it takes 2 people just to take my screen down.
  5. I've had a couple of HDMI video handshake issues recently with my HTPC that go away if I bypass the 1120 for picture.
I never had problems like this with my previous $700 Onkyo. I DID have the HDMI board issue with the Onkyo, but they had me back up in running in just under 1 week with a full repair (including them shipping me an empty box to begin with) vs. the 3.5 weeks that I was without my brand new 1120 because they wanted it shipped back to Canada to "investigate my claimed issue."



So yeah, I don't vent here very often. I do find the sound of the 1120 to be really amazing, but it seems like there are a lot more glitches/bugs that simply should not exist in a top end flagship product. It feels like I am a beta tester sometimes using a pre-production product.
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post #2652 of 8329 Old 12-04-2016, 02:32 AM
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Alright let's let it out

I have to say I haven't had the happiest experience with support either, it takes days for them to reply and once the convo gets going often it takes one WEEK for them to reply just to one things I asked in reply, last time it took about 3 weeks for a simple conversation to happen until I actually told them it was ridiculous so they got back to me quicker but apart from putting me on a beta firmware not much else had happened, and looky now I had to revert back to the only stable FW I know.

Pretty disappointing. I also was getting cracking noises on the new FW when the system was idle, so yes for a premium product no matter the sound quality it's s...ts me big time.
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post #2653 of 8329 Old 12-04-2016, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Bandyka View Post
Alright let's let it out

I have to say I haven't had the happiest experience with support either, it takes days for them to reply and once the convo gets going often it takes one WEEK for them to reply just to one things I asked in reply, last time it took about 3 weeks for a simple conversation to happen until I actually told them it was ridiculous so they got back to me quicker but apart from putting me on a beta firmware not much else had happened, and looky now I had to revert back to the only stable FW I know.

Pretty disappointing. I also was getting cracking noises on the new FW when the system was idle, so yes for a premium product no matter the sound quality it's s...ts me big time.

Perhaps now you see?

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post #2654 of 8329 Old 12-04-2016, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Apgood View Post
Yes the fractional values are the channels 3/4 means LCR + 4 surrounds; 2/0 means LR and no surrounds. Not sure how it displays overhead channels as I have an MRX700
It displays "Dolby Atmos"

Quote:
Originally Posted by muffinmcfluffin View Post
3) I'd find it unfathomable to set my volume at 0 dB (reference) when watching a Blu-ray, given this. I haven't even crossed 15 dB yet. Because of the apparent difference in volume between sources, is it safe to say that somehow my PS3 is outputting something so loudly that now, say, -10 dB is reference for me instead?
I generally watch movies at about -25.
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post #2655 of 8329 Old 12-04-2016, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandyka View Post
Alright let's let it out

I have to say I haven't had the happiest experience with support either, it takes days for them to reply and once the convo gets going often it takes one WEEK for them to reply just to one things I asked in reply, last time it took about 3 weeks for a simple conversation to happen until I actually told them it was ridiculous so they got back to me quicker but apart from putting me on a beta firmware not much else had happened, and looky now I had to revert back to the only stable FW I know.

Pretty disappointing. I also was getting cracking noises on the new FW when the system was idle, so yes for a premium product no matter the sound quality it's s...ts me big time.
When you say cracking noises do you mean from your speakers or the unit itself. I have heard something that I was having a hard time describing that I guess the best description of it would be cracking or a slight click though it's from the unit itself.

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post #2656 of 8329 Old 12-04-2016, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by e30cabrio View Post
Perhaps now you see?
I never argued with you if you noticed.

Quote:
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When you say cracking noises do you mean from your speakers or the unit itself. I have heard something that I was having a hard time describing that I guess the best description of it would be cracking or a slight click though it's from the unit itself.
It's from the speakers when idle, it sound like noise when playing old turntable discs, it's a cracking/popping noise.

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post #2657 of 8329 Old 12-04-2016, 02:18 PM
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I never argued with you if you noticed.



It's from the speakers when idle, it sound like noise when playing old turntable discs.
I should have said That was my experience with the phone help, I am not saying you argued.

This issue sounds like a hardware fault to me, I'd keep at them for a solution.

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post #2658 of 8329 Old 12-04-2016, 02:29 PM
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I should have said That was my experience with the phone help, I am not saying you argued.

This issue sounds like a hardware fault to me, I'd keep at them for a solution.
No it's a firmware issue as I mentioned I am on the older FW now again and the issue is gone.

Honestly I am too tired to even type another email to them just to start a month long conversation for nothing.
However this raises the BIG question, if a simple FW update causes havoc what are we going to experience when they release DTS:X (if ever)??
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post #2659 of 8329 Old 12-04-2016, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Bandyka View Post
No it's a firmware issue as I mentioned I am on the older FW now again and the issue is gone.

Honestly I am too tired to even type another email to them just to start a month long conversation for nothing.
However this raises the BIG question, if a simple FW update causes havoc what are we going to experience when they release DTS:X (if ever)??
Sorry, I missed a firmware change solved it. I hear you on the email conversations, I can call Canada free so did but every call led to emails and that last one sent me here for solutions. As you found I ended up "figuring it out myself" every time as well.

That is why I was so frustrated.

The last timeframe was by the end of 2016 no? So we'll have DTS-X within 27 days!!!! :P

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post #2660 of 8329 Old 12-04-2016, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by e30cabrio View Post

The last timeframe was by the end of 2016 no? So we'll have DTS-X within 27 days!!!! :P
Yeah want to see that happening and also bug free. Chances are???

JVC RS620/X9500 in bat cave Anthem MRX-720 + 3xpower amps = 7.1.4, Martin Logan Motion 60XT fronts, ML FX rears, ML Motion 50XT centre, 4 x ML Motion 2 on ceiling Atmos, ML Balanced force 210 as the beast. Panasonic UB900, STAX-3170 earspeakers, HTPC, PS4, PS3, Amiga 500 etc..Epson LS10000 calibration and WCG SDR settings: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post50298297
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post #2661 of 8329 Old 12-04-2016, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Bandyka View Post
Yeah want to see that happening and also bug free. Chances are???






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post #2662 of 8329 Old 12-04-2016, 07:54 PM
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My 720 has a few little quirks as well (my front speakers sometimes make a static "fart" noise when hdmi switching, sometimes the screen goes green when hdmi switching and loses signal and I have to choose "input" to get the image back). Minor, though, and once the movie starts rolling it's sweet, sweet audio goodness. But I suppose I agree we shouldn't be having issues like this with a premium product. I'll still buy the next gen Anthem when it comes out...if they follow through soon on their claim of DTS: X coming out.
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Gear: The Brains: Anthem MRX 720. The Brawn: Outlaw 7700. The Fun: Custom PC w/ Logitech 27 & reverse mount pedals, Nintendo Switch, Playstation PS4 Pro. The Visuals: Oppo 203, Darbee Darblet, Optoma HD3300, Panamorph UH480, DIY 138" Curved screen using Semour Centerstage XD AT material. The Audio: 7.1.4: LCR: Tannoy DC12i. Sides: Tannoy IW63DC. Rears: Tannoy DC8i. Ceilings: Tannoy CMS 603/601 DCBM. Subs: 3X Micro Marty and 1X Full Marty.
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post #2663 of 8329 Old 12-04-2016, 10:06 PM
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Been lurking and reading ,and thought I would share with all.

1) Just got a new MRX720 last week. What a great receiver. I had an older Arcam AVR350, which was great in its time, but the difference between that and the MRX720 is night and day, the 720 sounds so much better (with ARC) overall in my room even without Atmos and/or lossless codecs, which of course I now have and didn't have before either adding to the sonic improvements even further, by a lot. I bought the MRX 720 in part after doing my "homework" on avsforum, just like I did to buy my original equipment (the receiver and Paradigm Studio 60's, CC690 and ADP 570's along with a Hsu VTF-3 sub). In a mid-sized room like mine, there is no problem driving these speakers with the MRX 720 without an external amp; I will connect some in-ceiling speakers soon but don't anticipate any issues driving those two (5.1.2 set-up due to my room limitations) from the MRX-720 either. I suspect that the new Arcam 390 with Dirac is good as well but honestly I can't imagine that it can be very much better if at all than the MRX 720, and even though there is concern about the power specs on the MRX 720, the Arcam is speced to be even lower power both in 2-channel mode and with all 7 channels driven; in my room and system, the Anthem has tons of headroom to spare and is doing just great; no need for an external amp whatsoever from what I can tell.

2) I had an HDMI handshake issue appear but strangely after uploading ARC and only on one HDMI input/connection. I did all of the usual debugging stuff and finally remembered that in my experience the only way to solve it for me on other equipment, which worked in this case as well, was to disconnect all of the cables, including importantly the HDMI out cable, then AC power off and AC reset everything, including the MRX720 as in the manual, then plug the cables back in, and then power everything up again. I had to do all of those steps in that order; leaving one out, like especially leaving the HDMI out cable connected to the MRX720, even if the display/TV/panel was powered down/off, didn't do the trick for me. Now I have a rock-solid signal with no glitches in any way from all of my HDMI inputs (admittedly no 4K yet but nonetheless is still fine), so maybe that will be of help to others who are having issues. My next step was to do a factory reset but there was no need, it wasn't a firmware issue it was an HDMI key and handshake issue that was somehow introduced into that connection when I uploaded ARC (I think) but regardless it is now gone.

My only other non-routine issues were in the network connection; turns out that you can not have the ethernet hard-wire connection plugged into the back and try to establish a wireless connection to the MRX; it is one or the other exclusively, and Anthem helped me end that frustration; still could not establish a DCHP IP address for some reason though but a fixed IP address did work and is holding solid; strange but can live with it.

My Oppo BDP-83 works fine with the Anthem so no problems there.

Also my Harmony 900 remote controls the Anthem MRX 720 perfectly as well; the only minor glitch for me was that for some reason the set-up didn't properly populate the activities with the proper volume control keys to control the Anthem even though I told the Logitech program that is what I wanted to do; that was fixed quickly by individually going into each activity and assigning those hard buttons to the Anthem volume up and down commands, and it all works fine. Did not have to train the Harmony to learn any commands, all of the ones in the Logitech database seem to work just fine for the MRX 720 as far as I know now.

There is one interesting/minor thing that maybe someone here can comment on (in view of the above)
After running ARC, it set all of my speaker levels as follows: FL: +6dB, C: +4 dB; FR: +6 dB; SR: +9dB; SL: +4 dB; Sub: +6 dB.
I only assume that it did that in order to get them all to some standard SPL level at the reference 0 dB volume setting on the receiver; otherwise I could have subtracted 4 dB from all of them and ended up with the same relative offset levels. Should I be worried at all about clipping and override these levels and subtract 4 dB from all of the values, or just leave it where it is now (my default action is no action).

Also have not messed with the "room gain" setting in ARC; do people really recommend increasing it (ARC set it at +3.25 dB for my room) and if so to what value?

Thanks lots for all of the help and hope that the above info is helpful to others as well.
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post #2664 of 8329 Old 12-05-2016, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrfan View Post
Been lurking and reading ,and thought I would share with all.

1) Just got a new MRX720 last week. What a great receiver. I had an older Arcam AVR350, which was great in its time, but the difference between that and the MRX720 is night and day, the 720 sounds so much better (with ARC) overall in my room even without Atmos and/or lossless codecs, which of course I now have and didn't have before either adding to the sonic improvements even further, by a lot. I bought the MRX 720 in part after doing my "homework" on avsforum, just like I did to buy my original equipment (the receiver and Paradigm Studio 60's, CC690 and ADP 570's along with a Hsu VTF-3 sub). In a mid-sized room like mine, there is no problem driving these speakers with the MRX 720 without an external amp; I will connect some in-ceiling speakers soon but don't anticipate any issues driving those two (5.1.2 set-up due to my room limitations) from the MRX-720 either. I suspect that the new Arcam 390 with Dirac is good as well but honestly I can't imagine that it can be very much better if at all than the MRX 720, and even though there is concern about the power specs on the MRX 720, the Arcam is speced to be even lower power both in 2-channel mode and with all 7 channels driven; in my room and system, the Anthem has tons of headroom to spare and is doing just great; no need for an external amp whatsoever from what I can tell.

2) I had an HDMI handshake issue appear but strangely after uploading ARC and only on one HDMI input/connection. I did all of the usual debugging stuff and finally remembered that in my experience the only way to solve it for me on other equipment, which worked in this case as well, was to disconnect all of the cables, including importantly the HDMI out cable, then AC power off and AC reset everything, including the MRX720 as in the manual, then plug the cables back in, and then power everything up again. I had to do all of those steps in that order; leaving one out, like especially leaving the HDMI out cable connected to the MRX720, even if the display/TV/panel was powered down/off, didn't do the trick for me. Now I have a rock-solid signal with no glitches in any way from all of my HDMI inputs (admittedly no 4K yet but nonetheless is still fine), so maybe that will be of help to others who are having issues. My next step was to do a factory reset but there was no need, it wasn't a firmware issue it was an HDMI key and handshake issue that was somehow introduced into that connection when I uploaded ARC (I think) but regardless it is now gone.

My only other non-routine issues were in the network connection; turns out that you can not have the ethernet hard-wire connection plugged into the back and try to establish a wireless connection to the MRX; it is one or the other exclusively, and Anthem helped me end that frustration; still could not establish a DCHP IP address for some reason though but a fixed IP address did work and is holding solid; strange but can live with it.

My Oppo BDP-83 works fine with the Anthem so no problems there.

Also my Harmony 900 remote controls the Anthem MRX 720 perfectly as well; the only minor glitch for me was that for some reason the set-up didn't properly populate the activities with the proper volume control keys to control the Anthem even though I told the Logitech program that is what I wanted to do; that was fixed quickly by individually going into each activity and assigning those hard buttons to the Anthem volume up and down commands, and it all works fine. Did not have to train the Harmony to learn any commands, all of the ones in the Logitech database seem to work just fine for the MRX 720 as far as I know now.

There is one interesting/minor thing that maybe someone here can comment on (in view of the above)
After running ARC, it set all of my speaker levels as follows: FL: +6dB, C: +4 dB; FR: +6 dB; SR: +9dB; SL: +4 dB; Sub: +6 dB.
I only assume that it did that in order to get them all to some standard SPL level at the reference 0 dB volume setting on the receiver; otherwise I could have subtracted 4 dB from all of them and ended up with the same relative offset levels. Should I be worried at all about clipping and override these levels and subtract 4 dB from all of the values, or just leave it where it is now (my default action is no action).

Also have not messed with the "room gain" setting in ARC; do people really recommend increasing it (ARC set it at +3.25 dB for my room) and if so to what value?

Thanks lots for all of the help and hope that the above info is helpful to others as well.
I think you are correct on the trim levels but I have found it somewhat difficult to figure out exactly how Anthem handles reference level at least as it applies to the volume display.

Regarding the room gain personally, I set mine as zero which means it is EQ'd flat. I found that the room gain made the bass overpowering but it's strictly a preference thing. It's nice that they allow the user to decide.
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post #2665 of 8329 Old 12-05-2016, 02:52 PM
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@ dgrnfan

You are talking truth about pulling the cables to resolve sync issues, it does help for a while but the issues are back all too soon which is the main trouble, especially if one has the AVR tucked away and the cables are a pain to access so this issue should not happen in this age to an upmarket product.

JVC RS620/X9500 in bat cave Anthem MRX-720 + 3xpower amps = 7.1.4, Martin Logan Motion 60XT fronts, ML FX rears, ML Motion 50XT centre, 4 x ML Motion 2 on ceiling Atmos, ML Balanced force 210 as the beast. Panasonic UB900, STAX-3170 earspeakers, HTPC, PS4, PS3, Amiga 500 etc..Epson LS10000 calibration and WCG SDR settings: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post50298297
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post #2666 of 8329 Old 12-05-2016, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandyka View Post
@ dgrnfan

You are talking truth about pulling the cables to resolve sync issues, it does help for a while but the issues are back all too soon which is the main trouble, especially if one has the AVR tucked away and the cables are a pain to access so this issue should not happen in this age to an upmarket product.
I agree, my 2013 $1,000.00 H.K. AVR3700 has no HDMI/CEC issues. My unit is in a cabinet and I can pretty easily get at the back but why should I need to?

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post #2667 of 8329 Old 12-05-2016, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e30cabrio View Post
I agree, my 2013 $1,000.00 H.K. AVR3700 has no HDMI/CEC issues. My unit is in a cabinet and I can pretty easily get at the back but why should I need to?
Yeah same, however we also need to add that the sync issues mainly happen when 4K input is detected it does not seem to happen with 1080p so 4K still needs to be implemented well but still it should be much more stable IMO.

JVC RS620/X9500 in bat cave Anthem MRX-720 + 3xpower amps = 7.1.4, Martin Logan Motion 60XT fronts, ML FX rears, ML Motion 50XT centre, 4 x ML Motion 2 on ceiling Atmos, ML Balanced force 210 as the beast. Panasonic UB900, STAX-3170 earspeakers, HTPC, PS4, PS3, Amiga 500 etc..Epson LS10000 calibration and WCG SDR settings: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post50298297
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post #2668 of 8329 Old 12-05-2016, 04:25 PM
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Thanks for clarifying as I have not had these issues. Strange why it happens with 4K and not other resolutions given video is strictly pass through


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My equipment: JVC RS-55, SI Performance 120" 1.3 gain, OPPO BDP-105, ANTHEM MRX-1120, QNAP 469L NAS, ROKU 4.
MartinLogan speakers and subs. M/ASlim5 Rack, CalMAN 5 Enthusiast/C6 meter.
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post #2669 of 8329 Old 12-05-2016, 04:47 PM
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Thanks for clarifying as I have not had these issues. Strange why it happens with 4K and not other resolutions given video is strictly pass through


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I m sure it's to do with the wider bandwidth requirements which trips the signal.

JVC RS620/X9500 in bat cave Anthem MRX-720 + 3xpower amps = 7.1.4, Martin Logan Motion 60XT fronts, ML FX rears, ML Motion 50XT centre, 4 x ML Motion 2 on ceiling Atmos, ML Balanced force 210 as the beast. Panasonic UB900, STAX-3170 earspeakers, HTPC, PS4, PS3, Amiga 500 etc..Epson LS10000 calibration and WCG SDR settings: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post50298297
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post #2670 of 8329 Old 12-05-2016, 05:02 PM
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Frequently when it happens I have to pull the HDMI from my TV.

Denon AVR-X7200WA, SVS Prime Tower & Ultra Center, Klipsch R-2650 HSU VTF-15H MK2, Sony XBR 75X940D & 75X910C, OPPO BDP-93, Panasonic DP-UB820, Sony UBP-X800, Samsung UBD K8500, Roku Ultra, Hopper 3, HTPC, Technics SL-BD22D
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