The "OFFICIAL" Yamaha 1050/2050/3050 Owner's thread. - Page 124 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3691 of 10698 Old 01-12-2016, 03:19 PM
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YPAO does not work miracles.
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post #3692 of 10698 Old 01-12-2016, 03:37 PM
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just installed my 2050, and wasnt that thrilled about YPAO setup, so I spent alot of time manually configuring everything afterwards, and now I am really impressed!
sound alot crisper on movies than my marantz 6008 did, and has more punch too..

more testing to follow, but thanks to all the informative posters in here recently!!
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post #3693 of 10698 Old 01-12-2016, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Stanton View Post
I just noticed something from your original question that may be part of your problem. Did I read correctly that ALL of your speakers are in ceiling? What is your config: 5.1/5.1.2/something else?
If that is true, then I'm not surprised things don't sound so good (and the bottom end must be terrible).
Yes, All my speakers are in ceiling speakers. my current setup is 5.1, but i am planing to expand later time.

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post #3694 of 10698 Old 01-12-2016, 03:43 PM
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What manual setups you adjusted...

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post #3695 of 10698 Old 01-12-2016, 04:49 PM
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I went into the menu and adjusted distance, sound,speaker sizes and eq types
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post #3696 of 10698 Old 01-12-2016, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by wase4711 View Post
I went into the menu and adjusted distance, sound,speaker sizes and eq types
YPAO measurements for distance are usually very accurate. The only time they might be off is through a subwoofer or possible different style speaker crossovers mixed in.
In either case, many people recommend leaving YPAO distances as the are, because that way it'll arrive at the MLP at the correct time. YPAOs measurements for bass, eq, etc., are more debatable haha.
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post #3697 of 10698 Old 01-12-2016, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by kitti View Post
YPAO measurements for distance are usually very accurate. The only time they might be off is through a subwoofer or possible different style speaker crossovers mixed in.
In either case, many people recommend leaving YPAO distances as the are, because that way it'll arrive at the MLP at the correct time. YPAOs measurements for bass, eq, etc., are more debatable haha.
what is MLP?
and, isnt it better to put the exact distances in? Most of them were close, but a couple were off by more than 2 feet

thanks
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post #3698 of 10698 Old 01-12-2016, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
I always set my speakers based on what their low frequency response is. If it is really low (below 30Hz or so) then I find that I like the result better if they are set to low. Why would someone want to buy speakers with an extended low frequency response and not take advantage of that? Wouldn't it make more sense in that case (all set to small), to simply buy small speakers?
Exactly what I do. I also set the crossover on my sub as low as it will go, 50Hz, as I use extra bass otherwise it will output sounds above its real capability.
We pay good money for good speakers, if I wanted to cancel out the low end I would have bought small cheap 2 way bookshelves. The sub is there to add to the low end, they aren't designed to provide all of it.
Our 3 way mains should be providing an overwhelming majority of the sound.
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/4312a.pdf
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/4311.pdf
My listening room is extremely live, one side wall is floor to ceiling glass 10ft high and the flooring is ceramic tiling, I had a real problem getting enough bass. Luckily I have the speakers to do it and setting the speakers to large is the trick.
I think too many people just lock themselves into the THX recommendation of small and crossover at 80.

EDIT: YPAO set all mine to large in the first instance, I manually went in and set them to small with disastrous results. Only my centre is now small. Crossover at 60Hz.
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post #3699 of 10698 Old 01-12-2016, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by wase4711 View Post
what is MLP?
and, isnt it better to put the exact distances in? Most of them were close, but a couple were off by more than 2 feet

thanks
Main Listening Position.

No I don't think so, I believe it's not actually distance but wire delay. If you have a powered sub I bet it's the one that's out the most. Simply because of the delay going through the amp.
It's all setup using the timing of the tones to the YPAO mic. I think it's best to leave those settings as is.

All that being said experimenting is good, but you will most likely find going back to the default is best.
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post #3700 of 10698 Old 01-12-2016, 08:28 PM
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can I setup hdmi 2 out to go to the same tv as hdmi 1 out?
I know it sounds silly, but my Sony 4k tv only has 4k/hdcp2.2 to its hdmi 4 input, and of course, only HDMI1 on the Sony TV has ARC..
I'm currently running HDMI 1 out on the Yamaha to the hdmi4 input on my tv so I can view 4k stuff from my roku 4..

I would like to get the ARC functionality, so I thought I might hook up a HDMI cable to HDMI1 on the tv, and use HDMI 1output on the 2050 to get ARC going..

Is this possible, or, is HDMI 2 out on the 2050 only for a different Zone than zone 1?

thanks
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post #3701 of 10698 Old 01-12-2016, 08:55 PM
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I'm reasonably sure you can, without checking the manual.
EDIT: I'm pretty sure you set both outputs to "mains." Then it would simply be a matter of switching inputs on your tv.

I do have ARC setup on my Samsung tv but it has always been painful, sometimes it works, other times I'm certain the tv is on drugs.
So I run an optical cable to my 1050 to be certain I'm going to get audio out.

Does your tv have an optical out?

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post #3702 of 10698 Old 01-12-2016, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by wase4711 View Post
just installed my 2050, and wasnt that thrilled about YPAO setup, so I spent alot of time manually configuring everything afterwards, and now I am really impressed!
sound alot crisper on movies than my marantz 6008 did, and has more punch too..

more testing to follow, but thanks to all the informative posters in here recently!!
Can you give more detail why wasn't it good after ypao, what speaker configuration are you doing,what manual changes did you make Thanks.

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post #3703 of 10698 Old 01-12-2016, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
I always set my speakers based on what their low frequency response is. If it is really low (below 30Hz or so) then I find that I like the result better if they are set to low. Why would someone want to buy speakers with an extended low frequency response and not take advantage of that? Wouldn't it make more sense in that case (all set to small), to simply buy small speakers?
It depends on the room and what type of speakers/subs one has.

In your instance the Def Tech BP8080ST has powered subs. According to NRC measurements, there is a +8dB hump from 100Hz down to 30Hz giving that satisfactory in room low frequency feeling, that 12" woofer is powered by the 455W built-in Class D plate amp. These speakers are effectively a combination of great bookshelves + powered subs. Most passive floor standers are not like the BP8080ST. A completely passive 3-way floor stander would require significant amp power to produce the same low frequency bass signals at the same SPL and distortion levels. Though the 95dB THD at 50Hz looks a bit off.

The other unique thing about the BP8080ST is the dumb bell shaped figure 8 sound dispersion pattern. If you've got the back reflections taken care of, there is no ceiling and wall reflections to worry about so the direct sound waves will reach the ears first before secondary/tertiary reflections. This aids in better imaging.

An in room measurement should be able to confirm the above.

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post #3704 of 10698 Old 01-13-2016, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by wase4711 View Post
can I setup hdmi 2 out to go to the same tv as hdmi 1 out?
I know it sounds silly, but my Sony 4k tv only has 4k/hdcp2.2 to its hdmi 4 input, and of course, only HDMI1 on the Sony TV has ARC..
I'm currently running HDMI 1 out on the Yamaha to the hdmi4 input on my tv so I can view 4k stuff from my roku 4..

I would like to get the ARC functionality, so I thought I might hook up a HDMI cable to HDMI1 on the tv, and use HDMI 1output on the 2050 to get ARC going..

Is this possible, or, is HDMI 2 out on the 2050 only for a different Zone than zone 1?

thanks
Double checked this on mine...

Go to, On Screen/Multi Zone/HDMI OUT2 assign/ and select Main.
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post #3705 of 10698 Old 01-13-2016, 04:40 AM
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Can you give more detail why wasn't it good after ypao, what speaker configuration are you doing,what manual changes did you make Thanks.
I felt that the sound wasn't balanced properly; so I manually measured the distances of each speaker to the MLP, and changed the distance manually..also changed the sound to ypao "natural" It might have been my fault for having the ypao mic on a tripod in front of the MLP, insted of actually being on the couch itself where I sit

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Originally Posted by Roosatemyroses View Post
Double checked this on mine...

Go to, On Screen/Multi Zone/HDMI OUT2 assign/ and select Main.
thanks; so you tried it with 2 cables connected at the same time, or just saw that the menu allowed it?
I guess I'll connect 2 cables later today and see how it works.

and yes, my tv has a digital audio out, and I have it connected to the receiver so I can get digital sound when connected via an OTA antenna
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post #3706 of 10698 Old 01-13-2016, 07:09 AM
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@wase4711;Definitely for the MLP, you want the mic as close as you can possibly get to where your head is when sitting in your regular comfortable position. I originally did not have the mic adequately placed, and when I did (measured height and distance from rear wall of my head) and re-ran YPAO, I did get a much better result. I would also recommend that you do measurements from all 8 of the positions, and then tweak it from there. I did not mess with any of the distance or height settings after running the calibration. I'd also recommend when switching any or all of the speaker size from large to small or vice versa, that you give it a couple of minutes for your ears to adjust, as the result may be negligible back to back. Just listen to the same material exactly to test. There's really no right or wrong answer for everyone. We all have different speakers and subs, so what sounds good/right for A, may sound weaker/not boomy enough or too loud/boomy for B, C, and D. In manual tweaking after running YPAO, there is so much more than just the large/small setting. You can set the crossover points on all of the speakers up/down in 10 Hz increments. So really getting things dialed in may require a lot of repetitive listening to get it to where you like it. Others have mentioned through this thread about using REW and UMIK-1 to really get it dialed in, as it really personalizes accurate measurements for your particular room.

I found this video helpful:
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post #3707 of 10698 Old 01-13-2016, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
It depends on the room and what type of speakers/subs one has.

In your instance the Def Tech BP8080ST has powered subs. According to NRC measurements, there is a +8dB hump from 100Hz down to 30Hz giving that satisfactory in room low frequency feeling, that 12" woofer is powered by the 455W built-in Class D plate amp. These speakers are effectively a combination of great bookshelves + powered subs. Most passive floor standers are not like the BP8080ST. A completely passive 3-way floor stander would require significant amp power to produce the same low frequency bass signals at the same SPL and distortion levels. Though the 95dB THD at 50Hz looks a bit off.

The other unique thing about the BP8080ST is the dumb bell shaped figure 8 sound dispersion pattern. If you've got the back reflections taken care of, there is no ceiling and wall reflections to worry about so the direct sound waves will reach the ears first before secondary/tertiary reflections. This aids in better imaging.

An in room measurement should be able to confirm the above.
I don't disagree that my situation with this particular system may be different from others (I presented it as an extreme example), but I feel that to say one should always set their speakers to "small" is misleading, at best. I have 5 other systems with Yamaha AVRs from 5 to 11 channels (all with more conventional speakers) and as I previously said, I find it best to set the sizes according to the actual response capabilities of the speakers. I've not run into power problems (significant or even noticeable distortion) with this approach yet.
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post #3708 of 10698 Old 01-13-2016, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by wase4711 View Post
I felt that the sound wasn't balanced properly; so I manually measured the distances of each speaker to the MLP, and changed the distance manually..also changed the sound to ypao "natural" It might have been my fault for having the ypao mic on a tripod in front of the MLP, insted of actually being on the couch itself where I sit

If the speakers aren't balanced (in terms of volume) then you need to adjust speaker levels, not distances. But if the mic was in the wrong place I would re-run YPAO with the mic positioned properly. Then you have a good starting point for any manual adjustments.
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post #3709 of 10698 Old 01-13-2016, 07:52 AM
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yep, I just re-ran YPAO with the mic elevated to ear level, and setup exactly where the MLP is, and its alot better than the first run..
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post #3710 of 10698 Old 01-13-2016, 02:45 PM
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Two questions:
1. Can I hooked it up for both 7.1 and 7.1.2 and also 5.1.4 and just change the settings in the receivers menu to go back and forth without having to re-wire the receiver?

2. Does this receiver automatically detect an Atmos signal and switch between DSU on non-Atmos signals and then to a true Atmos on true Atmos signals?
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post #3711 of 10698 Old 01-13-2016, 02:52 PM
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Two questions:
1. Can I hooked it up for both 7.1 and 7.1.2 and also 5.1.4 and just change the settings in the receivers menu to go back and forth without having to re-wire the receiver?

2. Does this receiver automatically detect an Atmos signal and switch between DSU on non-Atmos signals and then to a true Atmos on true Atmos signals?
1) Because you can physically connect up to 9 speakers to the rear terminals, you can probably do it with some menu adjustment as you described. However, if you're swapping the same pair of speakers between terminals (like turning a "7" in a ".4", do it with the power off.
2) Basically yes. However, if you want to use any of the Yamaha DSP modes (which I do a lot), it's easier to select "Straight" when you play an Atmos source (and it will display Atmos as well).

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post #3712 of 10698 Old 01-13-2016, 04:36 PM
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thanks; so you tried it with 2 cables connected at the same time, or just saw that the menu allowed it?
I guess I'll connect 2 cables later today and see how it works.

and yes, my tv has a digital audio out, and I have it connected to the receiver so I can get digital sound when connected via an OTA antenna
No I haven't tried it but the menu looks pretty self explanatory.

I don't think you will have a problem.
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Guys, do we know what's the release date for DTS:X for 3050?
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post #3714 of 10698 Old 01-13-2016, 04:39 PM
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Guys, do we know what's the release date for DTS:X for 3050?
No. Estimates are early March.
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post #3715 of 10698 Old 01-13-2016, 04:59 PM
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No I haven't tried it but the menu looks pretty self explanatory.

I don't think you will have a problem.
Yeah, I tried it today, and it did not give me hdmi cec control as I hoped for
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No. Estimates are early March.
Thx
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post #3717 of 10698 Old 01-13-2016, 05:16 PM
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Yeah, I tried it today, and it did not give me hdmi cec control as I hoped for
You need to enable HDMI control on the AVR. Settings/HDMI

Unfortunately I've found ARC more trouble than it's worth.

Standards...what standards?

If you plug your tv into HDMI out 1 select optical 1 to correspond. Function/Input Assignment.

Hopefully we can get you something.

It sounds obvious but double check your tv settings...cec on etc.
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post #3718 of 10698 Old 01-13-2016, 05:40 PM
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So as I sorta know what I'm doing...

I was planning to run all devices through the AVR (cable box, Xbox, blu Ray, etc)- then with the AVR connected to the TV via HDMI only. I'll be setting up a harmony remote- so I'm not worried about control capabilities with the TV remote, nor connecting other devices to the TV- so therefore, ARC wouldn't apply/be required at all (correct?)

My new TV (LG 55eg9100) is coming soon- as well as my replacment unit (upgraded to the 3050 for $200 due to some shipping errors!). It has 3 HDMI with one having ARC. I figured leave that open should I need to plug something in directly and then it can be routed through the AVR...

The only thing I can think of here is if I stream anything off th TV- then I would need to be connected to the ARC port to process... No?

Just figured asking was better than trial and error!
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post #3719 of 10698 Old 01-13-2016, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by scape111 View Post
So as I sorta know what I'm doing...

I was planning to run all devices through the AVR (cable box, Xbox, blu Ray, etc)- then with the AVR connected to the TV via HDMI only. I'll be setting up a harmony remote- so I'm not worried about control capabilities with the TV remote, nor connecting other devices to the TV- so therefore, ARC wouldn't apply/be required at all (correct?)

My new TV (LG 55eg9100) is coming soon- as well as my replacment unit (upgraded to the 3050 for $200 due to some shipping errors!). It has 3 HDMI with one having ARC. I figured leave that open should I need to plug something in directly and then it can be routed through the AVR...

The only thing I can think of here is if I stream anything off th TV- then I would need to be connected to the ARC port to process... No?

Just figured asking was better than trial and error!
If you are using your smart TV to access apps like Netflix, Hulu, etc and want audio out of your avr instead of your TV speakers, then yes, arc is how you achieve it. Personally, I use a Roku 4 for that content, instead of my Samsung un75hu8550, and skip arc altogether. The Sammies are notoriously sketchy with their arc functionality though. Like you, I have everything through my 3050 and use Harmony...it has been great.

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Seymour 119" 2.37:1 AT Neo Enlightor with 16:9 AT Masking Panels | JVC DLA-X790R projector
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post #3720 of 10698 Old 01-13-2016, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stanton View Post
1) Because you can physically connect up to 9 speakers to the rear terminals, you can probably do it with some menu adjustment as you described. However, if you're swapping the same pair of speakers between terminals (like turning a "7" in a ".4", do it with the power off.
2) Basically yes. However, if you want to use any of the Yamaha DSP modes (which I do a lot), it's easier to select "Straight" when you play an Atmos source (and it will display Atmos as well).
In my original setup I had 11 Speakers set up using a separate Amp but being a Yammy RX A2050 it can only do 9 Channels ( I was stuffed) but by having this setup I was able to make on Speaker Pattern say PATTERN 1 as 5.1.4 and pattern 2 PATTERN 2 as 7.1.2 so by this I was able to jump between one speaker config to another in 5 seconds. See I was told the 2050 could do 11 channels with a separate Amp but this was wrong so after finding this out the hard way I sold the 2050 and replaced it with the 3050. Use the great Scene functions of these Amps to make life easier for you by setting up the Amp in many ways and marrying it to a scene that you can re name to suit you . Download the app from Google or other and you will be able to use a cell phone or Tablet to control your Yammy 1050, 2050 and 3050.
want frustration!
Windows Update have crashed my computer 3 times since the 24th of december 2015 and have required a fresh install each time. GGrrrrrrggghhhh.

Main Room Sony KD-75X9400E Display, AMP. Yamaha RX-A3050. Front Mains, 2x Dali Concept 8. Klipsch Center, Surround and Rear Surrounds, 4X Dali Ikon 1. Ceiling 4X B&W CCM 382. Subs, 2x Kef C200 for the rear and 2X Kenwood SW-07HT for the fronts. Lounge Shakers, Dayton Audio SA 230 Sub Amp with 4 AST-2B-4 lounge Shakers. The other Tv room the Hecto live there the Hecto 100 inch Short throw projector,
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