The "OFFICIAL" Yamaha 1050/2050/3050 Owner's thread. - Page 304 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9091 of 10588 Old 02-17-2017, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bluemoon737 View Post
My apologies...I missed that. Not surprising that it was the cables. Glad you got it fixed.
No worries. I am glad it's fixed though as I was getting frustrated with it. Now If Yamaha can get the issues fixed with Directv's C61K that would be great. The issue is when changing from a 4K channel back to 720/1080 the AVR loses the HDMI signal and it doesn’t require the signal until you change the channel again at a different resolution. This is another one that is driving me nuts. LOL
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post #9092 of 10588 Old 02-17-2017, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Anh Nguyen View Post
You can do usb update. Just download it to your flash drive and plug it in for update.

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Originally Posted by ThatTVGuy View Post
No worries. I am glad it's fixed though as I was getting frustrated with it. Now If Yamaha can get the issues fixed with Directv's C61K that would be great. The issue is when changing from a 4K channel back to 720/1080 the AVR loses the HDMI signal and it doesn’t require the signal until you change the channel again at a different resolution. This is another one that is driving me nuts. LOL
You MIGHT be able to get around that if you turn off the Monitor Check setting, which is in the same advanced settings section as the 4K mode. I have to do this to get around issues with my HTPC/Plex and resolution/refresh rate changes.
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post #9093 of 10588 Old 02-17-2017, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ThatTVGuy View Post
No worries. I am glad it's fixed though as I was getting frustrated with it. Now If Yamaha can get the issues fixed with Directv's C61K that would be great. The issue is when changing from a 4K channel back to 720/1080 the AVR loses the HDMI signal and it doesn’t require the signal until you change the channel again at a different resolution. This is another one that is driving me nuts. LOL
That is a C61K issue along with the audio dropouts that unit suffers. Suspect the HDCP implementation on the C61K needs work.

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post #9094 of 10588 Old 02-18-2017, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by gossamer88 View Post
Subwoofer question.

I have the Paradigm CT110 speaker system. Yesterday I decided to reset my a1050 to start all over again and ran the calibration.

I kept getting the W3 level error message. Turns out the subwoofer is not being picked up by the mic.

They are connected with two RCA cables to the AVR. I raised the level to max and cut-off frequency at Normal.

Any setting on the a1050 I should look out for?
So I got around to it this morning after ordering a new cable from Amazon.

Turns out the right input of the sub is bad. So I chose the the left input and the mic picked it up. But the result distance was 1ft?! I sit approximately 9.5 ft. I used one mic position so far.

So I went to the Manual setup and changed it. But why when I go to the results it is still set at 1ft? Is there no way to edit the results?

Another (possibly dumb) question, why would a sub have two inputs? I guess I should be lucky mine does, since one input went bad.

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post #9095 of 10588 Old 02-18-2017, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by gossamer88 View Post
Another (possibly dumb) question, why would a sub have two inputs? I guess I should be lucky mine does, since one input went bad.
It's for those who have stereo receivers (instead of an AV receiver with bass mgmt.) that don't sum the bass signals from the left and right speakers within the stereo receiver but leave it instead for the subwoofer's amp to do.
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post #9096 of 10588 Old 02-18-2017, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by virtualrain View Post
YPAO should set the levels accurately but if you have an SPL meter you can verify by using the test tones (pink noise). Put the meter at MLP (or where you put the YPAO mic). Set the volume at zero and check the levels. They should be close to 75dB but it's more important that channel to channel variation is minimal.
The built in pink noise in 3050 is too short for each speaker, it does not give you enough time to read the measurement. Any alternative?

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post #9097 of 10588 Old 02-18-2017, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by showmak View Post
The built in pink noise in 3050 is too short for each speaker, it does not give you enough time to read the measurement. Any alternative?

After you enable the manual test tone, it will stay on an individual speaker if you go to the menu screen for adjusting speaker levels (at least that's the way it used to work).
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post #9098 of 10588 Old 02-18-2017, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post
After you enable the manual test tone, it will stay on an individual speaker if you go to the menu screen for adjusting speaker levels (at least that's the way it used to work).
Still works that way.

hit on-screen>setup>manual setup>test tone>on>level>
then choose the speaker /sub you want to adjust

creates a continuous pink noise output until you decide you're done,
and you can even bump the volume up if you want from the standard YPAO 75 setting.

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post #9099 of 10588 Old 02-18-2017, 09:42 PM
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The "OFFICIAL" Yamaha 1050/2050/3050 Owner's thread.

Just watched magnificent seven as my first movie on the 3050. Sound quality was amazing compared to my old Yamaha.

Movie has perfect picture, but still having some flickering issues on the bluray menu and the onscreen for Spotify, HDMI handshake?

And wow this thing runs hot, my rack was at 93 after the movie. Never even got close to running that hot before. This is with two fans running on top. Might need to add fans at the bottom, just never had hear issues before


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post #9100 of 10588 Old 02-18-2017, 10:47 PM
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Anyone here having issues with their receiver talking to their computer or the phone app?

I have a 3050 and had it for over a year now. Its been great and flawless, but tonight I noticed that when I went to my spotify on my computer, the receiver was not listed as an available device to play from. I thought ok.. well lets see maybe I need to update, so I go to my trusty app and think maybe its time to put the newest firmware on. Well , oh and behold.. my phone cant find the receiver either. I restart the receiver several times and press on the antenna, and it suddenly shows up. So I press on it to select it in the app, and then I get the error in the app "unable to connect to device (error ID:-1001)"

I'm a little disturbed by this and dont understand whats going on.

Has anyone else experienced a similar situation, if so did it go away on its own ( fluke) or should I maybe contact Yamaha about this. If it cant be a true network receiver to me then its useless for when I listen to spotify on it.
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post #9101 of 10588 Old 02-19-2017, 12:18 AM
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Hi,

I have some test demos and speaker channel tests which I have uploaded for anyone wanting to test their amp.

dtsx, atmos 9.0.6 / 7.1.2, dts hd, lpcm, truehd, lfe tests.

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AtNKHjP0F442nU3ME4MJebG8mS6O

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post #9102 of 10588 Old 02-19-2017, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin4730 View Post
And wow this thing runs hot, my rack was at 93 after the movie. Never even got close to running that hot before. This is with two fans running on top. Might need to add fans at the bottom, just never had hear issues before
Really can't tell anything from that picture...other than a temperature display. Where is the AVR in the rack? Is it enclosed (front/back)? How about a picture of the AVR?
I have never had temp issues with a Yamaha AVR (and I've owned a few). Your HDMI issues may or may not be due to heat.

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post #9103 of 10588 Old 02-19-2017, 02:54 PM
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The "OFFICIAL" Yamaha 1050/2050/3050 Owner's thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stanton View Post
Really can't tell anything from that picture...other than a temperature display. Where is the AVR in the rack? Is it enclosed (front/back)? How about a picture of the AVR?
I have never had temp issues with a Yamaha AVR (and I've owned a few). Your HDMI issues may or may not be due to heat.


The rack is enclosed front/back/sides and in a closet, AVR toward the bottom. Two fans on top, could add two on the bottom for the same push and pull. The cable coming out is HDMI directly to the tv. It was using wall plates with HDMI extenders that used to work but now directly it isn't getting any flicker. (Standard HDMI and redmere both direct). So right now my trial and error is showing the flicker is in the HDMI. (Outputting to a 1080p plasma)


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post #9104 of 10588 Old 02-19-2017, 04:47 PM
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Hi,

you wanted to ask couple of questions, I have the avr 3050 running latest firmware 1.89.

1) for me on dtsx setting for "dts dialogue adjust" does not make any difference between 1 to 3, the standard "dialogue level adjust" does makes a huge difference. anyone else experiencing this problem?

2) just wanted to know what volume level do you guys watch movies at? I mainly watch at night so mine is - 44 db and during day at - 35 dB.

Thanks

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post #9105 of 10588 Old 02-19-2017, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gossamer88 View Post
So I got around to it this morning after ordering a new cable from Amazon.

Turns out the right input of the sub is bad. So I chose the the left input and the mic picked it up. But the result distance was 1ft?! I sit approximately 9.5 ft. I used one mic position so far.

So I went to the Manual setup and changed it. But why when I go to the results it is still set at 1ft? Is there no way to edit the results?

Another (possibly dumb) question, why would a sub have two inputs? I guess I should be lucky mine does, since one input went bad.
I have a Paradigm SUB15. It has RCA (S/E) Left and Right or Sub-Out / LFE or Balanced XLR. From Sub-Out / LFE-Out of preamp, processor or other line-level source for inputs. As for adjusting your distance, I read and I believe it was from my Paradigm ARC, that you don't touch the distance detected from calibrating.
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post #9106 of 10588 Old 02-20-2017, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin4730 View Post
The rack is enclosed front/back/sides and in a closet, AVR toward the bottom. Two fans on top, could add two on the bottom for the same push and pull. The cable coming out is HDMI directly to the tv. It was using wall plates with HDMI extenders that used to work but now directly it isn't getting any flicker. (Standard HDMI and redmere both direct). So right now my trial and error is showing the flicker is in the HDMI. (Outputting to a 1080p plasma
I think you figured out the HDMI problem; if you had mentioned "wall plates", I would have told you to bypass those (especially with HDMI 2.0a / HDCP 2.2).

While you probably aren't having any heat related problems (now), with a rack like that I would move the AVR closer to the top. I practice what I preach: my AVR is on the top shelf of my rack AND I drilled (large) holes in the top to allow heat to "rise" out; I don't use any active (fans) cooling and I have never had an AVR fail (and I drive them hard).

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post #9107 of 10588 Old 02-20-2017, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by a5ian300zx View Post
I have the avr 3050 running latest firmware 1.89.

1) for me on dtsx setting for "dts dialogue adjust" does not make any difference between 1 to 3, the standard "dialogue level adjust" does makes a huge difference. anyone else experiencing this problem?
That's because the "DTS" version only works for DTS:X, and the "Yamaha" version works for everything (I use the latter).

Quote:
Originally Posted by a5ian300zx View Post
2) just wanted to know what volume level do you guys watch movies at? I mainly watch at night so mine is - 44 db and during day at - 35 dB.
I listen between -15dB to -25db...night or day (movies and music).
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post #9108 of 10588 Old 02-20-2017, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin4730 View Post
The rack is enclosed front/back/sides and in a closet, AVR toward the bottom. Two fans on top, could add two on the bottom for the same push and pull. The cable coming out is HDMI directly to the tv. It was using wall plates with HDMI extenders that used to work but now directly it isn't getting any flicker. (Standard HDMI and redmere both direct). So right now my trial and error is showing the flicker is in the HDMI. (Outputting to a 1080p plasma)


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Seems like an honest to god terrible setup. First off in a enclosed cabinet heat would get pretty bad. Then putting that in a closet meaning air being rotated is now locked into a small room? Your fans would be removing hot air and then inserting that same hot air. Horrible idea.
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post #9109 of 10588 Old 02-20-2017, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Stanton View Post
That's because the "DTS" version only works for DTS:X, and the "Yamaha" version works for everything (I use the latter).
And then only when the "Dialog" object is embedded in the DTS:X audio, which to date has been rare. I've only seen it on the DTS:X demo discs.
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post #9110 of 10588 Old 02-21-2017, 01:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a5ian300zx View Post
Hi,

you wanted to ask couple of questions, I have the avr 3050 running latest firmware 1.89.

1) for me on dtsx setting for "dts dialogue adjust" does not make any difference between 1 to 3, the standard "dialogue level adjust" does makes a huge difference. anyone else experiencing this problem?

2) just wanted to know what volume level do you guys watch movies at? I mainly watch at night so mine is - 44 db and during day at - 35 dB.

Thanks

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Since question 1 is already explained, I'll answer question 2.

I listen between -30db to -15db. This is in a 1650cu. ft room.

Speakers sensitivity plays an important roll too of course. At -44db with my speakers, even my smartphone speakers would be louder. Then there is the matter of content just being mixed stupidly low in volume for whatever dumb reasons.
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post #9111 of 10588 Old 02-21-2017, 02:19 AM
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my wife asks me at times to put the volume down from - 44db but i have dialogue level on 3 but leave DRC on so I can watch at lower volume at night as the kids bedroom is next door.

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post #9112 of 10588 Old 02-21-2017, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a5ian300zx View Post
my wife asks me at times to put the volume down from - 44db but i have dialogue level on 3 but leave DRC on so I can watch at lower volume at night as the kids bedroom is next door.

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Guess your kids are luckier than mine (although yours may be younger too)! They get to listen to whatever I'm listening to downstairs through the ceiling/floor of their bedrooms! I don't like "dynamic" anything controls, and I didn't invest in all this stuff (I see you also have some nice gear) to turn it down; I'll have to do that when I retire...

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post #9113 of 10588 Old 02-21-2017, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stanton View Post
Guess your kids are luckier than mine (although yours may be younger too)! They get to listen to whatever I'm listening to downstairs through the ceiling/floor of their bedrooms! I don't like "dynamic" anything controls, and I didn't invest in all this stuff (I see you also have some nice gear) to turn it down; I'll have to do that when I retire...
my wife has super sensitive ears hence the low volume.

dialogue level adjust is a must have for me especially watching at low volume.

I tried different setups and found the orb audio speakers very clear at low volume and had to tone down the bass to. I say exactly the same to my wife what's the point on having all this might as well get a sound bar or something.

I am still toying with DRC at the moment.

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post #9114 of 10588 Old 02-22-2017, 02:51 PM
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Should have my Yamaha RXA-1050 delivered tomorrow. I am excited. I have tried to go through a lot of this thread but man there are a lot of posts. So I had some questions. Before I open it and hook it up, from what I have researched and read, there isn't a huge difference, sonically, between the 1050,2050 and 3050, is that correct? It looks like the more you move up the chain, you get more power, more channels and dual ESS Sabre Dac's. Which I don't care about more channels or power because I might go with an outboard amp anyway. And I have no idea what dual dac's get you. Another dac for more channels? But as far as sound quality and processing, the 3 should sound very similar right?


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Green = Phone number is a metered number owned by HomeAdvisor
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post #9115 of 10588 Old 02-22-2017, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by HiFiJeffy View Post
Should have my Yamaha RXA-1050 delivered tomorrow. I am excited. I have tried to go through a lot of this thread but man there are a lot of posts. So I had some questions. Before I open it and hook it up, from what I have researched and read, there isn't a huge difference, sonically, between the 1050,2050 and 3050, is that correct? It looks like the more you move up the chain, you get more power, more channels and dual ESS Sabre Dac's. Which I don't care about more channels or power because I might go with an outboard amp anyway. And I have no idea what dual dac's get you. Another dac for more channels? But as far as sound quality and processing, the 3 should sound very similar right?


Phone number color definitions:
Purple = Phone number is not in BETTI
Red = Phone number is in BETTI on an existing SP or Consumer
Green = Phone number is a metered number owned by HomeAdvisor
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I'm curious: why did you ask this question after you obviously made your decision to buy the 1050?
But since you asked, I would have never bought anything below the 20xx version of any year because you lose the ability to:
  • go beyond 5.1.2 configurations
  • have more than 2 zones
Beyond that, a little extra power never hurts...just sayin'
What is all that "phone number color definitions" stuff??
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Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR [v1.81], LG 65EF9500 4K OLED [v4.25.70]
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B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1
Pioneer CLD-99 LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD [v1.80]

Last edited by Stanton; 02-23-2017 at 08:03 AM.
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post #9116 of 10588 Old 02-23-2017, 07:18 AM
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That's the reason I was asking now, before I unbox it and hook it all up. I can simply just have it sent back and buy the 2050,3050 or something else. It will be sitting there waiting for me at my local FedEx office once I get off from work. But I want to make sure it's the right choice because it's going to be the heart of my system for awhile. Now the things you mention as a downfall are going beyond 5.1.2 and multizone. I could really care less about any of that. My main thing is sound quality, especially on 2 channel audio. More power is good but I am most likely going to go with an external amplifier. Most likely the Monoprice Monolith 3x200. So with that said, that is why the guys that sold me the unit told me to go with the 1050 compared to the 2050 or 3050, pretty much the same sound quality and processing minus a few channels and features and put the money into a nice external amp.

Thats funny. Phone number and colors and so on. I am at work and I thought I deleted it. Don't know why it is posting. LOL
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post #9117 of 10588 Old 02-23-2017, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by HiFiJeffy View Post
My main thing is sound quality, especially on 2 channel audio. More power is good but I am most likely going to go with an external amplifier. Most likely the Monoprice Monolith 3x200. So with that said, that is why the guys that sold me the unit told me to go with the 1050 compared to the 2050 or 3050, pretty much the same sound quality and processing minus a few channels and features and put the money into a nice external amp.
Now I'm really confused: why are you going to buy a high end AVR and not use the internal amps? Spend the extra $$ on the AVR and get the (slightly) better DACs along with the extra power.
Otherwise just buy a 2-channel amp and save the hassle.

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post #9118 of 10588 Old 02-23-2017, 11:45 AM
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I own a 3050, 2050, and 3 1050s (all in different systems of course), and the biggest difference that I can tell between them is the number of channels supported (I don't use zones, just lots of systems ). Since my systems are all quite different from one another in different rooms and with very different speakers I can't really do a fair comparison between the AVRs. I am happy with them all though.

My main room has a cx-a5100 paired with Outlaw amps and that room sounds the best, by far, of them all. It's a much larger room with high (10ft) ceilings and lots of sub woofers (4 Deftech BP8080STs with built in subwoofers and 2 Trinity Signature subwoofers).

1) JVC DLA-NX7 & Sony 65Z9D, Yamaha CX-A5200, Outlaw Audio 7900 & 7700, UDP-203, DP-UB9000, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
2) Sony 75Z9D, Yamaha RX-A3080, 2xOutlaw Audio 2200s, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
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post #9119 of 10588 Old 02-23-2017, 06:33 PM
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2050 and dolby vision

Can anyone tell me if the 2050 will pass dolby vision through the system? Trying to pick a uhd blu ray player and this will be a determinin factor.
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post #9120 of 10588 Old 02-23-2017, 06:40 PM
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Can anyone tell me if the 2050 will pass dolby vision through the system? Trying to pick a uhd blu ray player and this will be a determinin factor.
No.

1) JVC RS540, Yamaha CX-A5100, Outlaw Audio 7700 & 7140, Wharfedale Jade 7's series speakers, RSL C34e(Atmos)
2) LG OLED65B6, Integra DRC-R1, Emotiva XPA9, Klipsch RP8000F, Klipsch RP404C, Klipsch RP500SA, Klipsch RP140D
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