The "OFFICIAL" Yamaha 1050/2050/3050 Owner's thread. - Page 306 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9151 of 10626 Old 03-05-2017, 02:13 PM
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Help Choosing External Power Amp for 7.1.4 (Atmos) Setup

Hi all,

With the recent news that Xbox One will be adding Dolby Atmos support, I decided to upgrade my existing 7.1 setup to an Atmos setup by adding 4 in-ceiling speakers.

Since my Aventage 3050 only powers up to 9.2 channels, I need an external stereo amplifier to power one of the pairs of overheads. Trouble is, I'm kind of tight on space, and all the amps I've seen so far are way bigger than what I can accommodate. Also, this is my first time dealing with an external amp setup, so I have to admit I'm not entirely familiar with what I need. Here's my current setup:

6 Polk 265-LS in-wall (L/R + surrounds)
1 Polk 255C-LS in-wall (center)
1 Polk DSW Pro 500 subwoofer

The new overheads I'll be installing are:

4 Polk 900-LS in-ceiling

So far, the closest amp I've been able to find that I *think* will suit my needs (mainly in terms of size) is a nice 120x2W PTA 4 Stereo Amp by Pyle (can't post links, sorry!), but I'm not sure if it's good enough quality-wise.

Can anyone give me some good suggestions on decent (but preferably small) amps I could use with the above equipment? I'd really appreciate any guidance.

Thanks!

Last edited by Coniption; 03-05-2017 at 02:23 PM.
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post #9152 of 10626 Old 03-05-2017, 09:40 PM
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Hi all,


Can anyone give me some good suggestions on decent (but preferably small) amps I could use with the above equipment? I'd really appreciate any guidance.

Thanks!
I use the emotiva a-100 and have pleased with its performance. It is pretty small as well.

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post #9153 of 10626 Old 03-06-2017, 02:36 PM
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Anyone have any good uses they want to share for the monitor out/zone out composite and component outputs. I'm really trying to wrap my head around a use for these instead of HDMI in a current AVR.


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TV: Panasonic 60" VT60 Plasma Surround: Yamaha RXA3050 5.1.2 Definitive Technology BP7006 (front), DefTech studio 350's (rear), Def Tech Di6.5r (ceiling) Players: Raspberry Pi running OpenElec/Kodi, Roku, Sony Blu-ray Control: Control4, whole house automation
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post #9154 of 10626 Old 03-06-2017, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin4730 View Post
Anyone have any good uses they want to share for the monitor out/zone out composite and component outputs. I'm really trying to wrap my head around a use for these instead of HDMI in a current AVR.
Any legacy A/V component...like a VCR.
I use Zone 2 out as a Tape (cassette) REC/OUT and Zone 3 out as VCR REC/OUT. I only turn the zones "on" when I want to make a tape (which is very rare).

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post #9155 of 10626 Old 03-08-2017, 09:47 AM
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Just noticed that when I turn on my 3050 and crank up the volume near reference level, there's a hissing sound emitting from the speakers, even though there's no source playing.

Tried disconnecting the sub, the PS3, the media player, the hiss didn't go away. Is this normal or is my receiver defective?
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post #9156 of 10626 Old 03-08-2017, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfergr View Post
Just noticed that when I turn on my 3050 and crank up the volume near reference level, there's a hissing sound emitting from the speakers, even though there's no source playing.

Tried disconnecting the sub, the PS3, the media player, the hiss didn't go away. Is this normal or is my receiver defective?
A: is it properly grounded?
B: does it do it if you disconnect EVERYTHING from it but the speakers?
C: what do you consider "reference level" on the volume display?
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post #9157 of 10626 Old 03-08-2017, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dianebrat View Post
A: is it properly grounded?
B: does it do it if you disconnect EVERYTHING from it but the speakers?
C: what do you consider "reference level" on the volume display?
Α: I think so
B: Yes, disconnected everything but the speakers a few hours ago
C: Around 0
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post #9158 of 10626 Old 03-08-2017, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by surfergr View Post
Α: I think so
B: Yes, disconnected everything but the speakers a few hours ago
C: Around 0
I have a Pioneer Elite model and it does his from -5dB upwards. It used to power high efficiency Klipcsh speakers and was never pass -10dB, not the case anymore.

I used to think that every amp hiss but I'got a few high end vintage amps and separate pre-amps and they are ridiculously silent. Curious to find out if the high end Yamaha his or it is only your unit.
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post #9159 of 10626 Old 03-08-2017, 02:57 PM
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Unhappy ARC Problems

Hi, I am having issues with my RX-A1050 receiver. When streaming Netflix and Amazon Prime through the TVs (LG B6 OLED) built in app the sound will cut out for a brief second. This happens at random, but I probably notice it more when streaming 4K or Dolby Vision content, although I can't say for sure.

The TV is set to ARC is via HDMI IN 1 (ARC) port to the receivers HDMI OUT 1 (ARC) port.

HDMI CTRL is on with AUDIO 1 selected


Troubleshooting steps I took;

1. Tried 3 different HDMI cables in total, all different brands and all under 6ft. I have also tried reseting the receiver through the advanced setup and the issue still persists.

2. Turned off the HDMI-CEC setting on the TV and on again to reset the handshake.

3. I've read posts from people where switching to PCM on the TV fixed the issue, but when I switch to PCM, the sound is stereo only, and the TV will not push out a Dolby Digital 5.1 signal.

4. Changed the HDMI-CTRL setting on the received from AUDIO 1 to AUDIO 2

5. By-passed ARC with sound through optical

Has anyone experienced this?
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post #9160 of 10626 Old 03-08-2017, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by graveyardghoul View Post
Hi, I am having issues with my RX-A1050 receiver. When streaming Netflix and Amazon Prime through the TVs (LG B6 OLED) built in app the sound will cut out for a brief second. This happens at random, but I probably notice it more when streaming 4K or Dolby Vision content, although I can't say for sure.

The TV is set to ARC is via HDMI IN 1 (ARC) port to the receivers HDMI OUT 1 (ARC) port.

HDMI CTRL is on with AUDIO 1 selected


Troubleshooting steps I took;

1. Tried 3 different HDMI cables in total, all different brands and all under 6ft. I have also tried reseting the receiver through the advanced setup and the issue still persists.

2. Turned off the HDMI-CEC setting on the TV and on again to reset the handshake.

3. I've read posts from people where switching to PCM on the TV fixed the issue, but when I switch to PCM, the sound is stereo only, and the TV will not push out a Dolby Digital 5.1 signal.

4. Changed the HDMI-CTRL setting on the received from AUDIO 1 to AUDIO 2

5. By-passed ARC with sound through optical

Has anyone experienced this?
Correction, the TV is set to ARC is via HDMI IN 2 (ARC) port to the receivers HDMI OUT 1 (ARC) port.
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post #9161 of 10626 Old 03-08-2017, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graveyardghoul View Post
Hi, I am having issues with my RX-A1050 receiver. When streaming Netflix and Amazon Prime through the TVs (LG B6 OLED) built in app the sound will cut out for a brief second. This happens at random, but I probably notice it more when streaming 4K or Dolby Vision content, although I can't say for sure.


I have a B6 and a 2050 and experience the same problem. Just hoping it goes away until a streamer that supports DV & Atmos comes out.


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post #9162 of 10626 Old 03-08-2017, 05:57 PM
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I have a B6 and a 2050 and experience the same problem. Just hoping it goes away until a streamer that supports DV & Atmos comes out.


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I have the Sony 65" Z9D and have the same issue of split-second audio dropouts via ARC, watching Netflix, into Yamaha 3060. Happens on both DD and DD+. About once per hour.

Doesn't happen when I use PLEX Media Server app or others on the Sony, only the Netflix app, so hopefully the update will fix it.

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post #9163 of 10626 Old 03-08-2017, 07:05 PM
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65B6P OLED here as well, RX-A3050 AVR

I hate ARC and CEC so never even bothered to try to get audio via HDMI
...Hooked up a Digi-Optical cable from Day 1 from TV to Audio Input 1 on the AVR, no issues at all.

The only app I use on the TV is Netflix 4K, and that's capped at DD 5.1 for audio anyway,
So no need for HDMI audio, ARC or CEC.

I get my Atmos/DTS:X exclusively through my Panasonic UB900 4K/UHD bluray player
...and usually played through my JVC X750 projector/120" screen.

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post #9164 of 10626 Old 03-08-2017, 11:01 PM
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Any thoughts on the hissing sound I mentioned earlier?

PioManiac? (since you have the same receiver)
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post #9165 of 10626 Old 03-09-2017, 02:01 AM
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RX-A1050 ARC Weird problem solved with last firmware update.

Hi everyone, sometime back I was having an issue with my Audio return channel.
I called Yamaha about this issue and the tech said point blank the problem I was having could not happen and nearly caused me to consider buying yet another receiver. I am glad I didn't.

Anyways If I switched my 65 curved UHD 4K tv to play the tvs Netflix app using ARC everything would work fine.
Yet once I switched back to view my X1 cable box plugged into my Yamaha I would get video from the cable box but audio from my Netflix app my audio would start to work once I hit Avi 2 where my cable box is plugged into.

It is like the the receiver did not release the relays to switch over the audio from ARC to AVI2

Anyways to the tech whom tried to help yet pretty much told me I was nuts the last Yamaha firmware update fixed the problem.

I figured I would post this incase someone using the same receiver has the same problem but has been hesitant about updating the firmware
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post #9166 of 10626 Old 03-09-2017, 02:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graveyardghoul View Post
Hi, I am having issues with my RX-A1050 receiver. When streaming Netflix and Amazon Prime through the TVs (LG B6 OLED) built in app the sound will cut out for a brief second. This happens at random, but I probably notice it more when streaming 4K or Dolby Vision content, although I can't say for sure.

The TV is set to ARC is via HDMI IN 1 (ARC) port to the receivers HDMI OUT 1 (ARC) port.

HDMI CTRL is on with AUDIO 1 selected


Troubleshooting steps I took;

1. Tried 3 different HDMI cables in total, all different brands and all under 6ft. I have also tried reseting the receiver through the advanced setup and the issue still persists.

2. Turned off the HDMI-CEC setting on the TV and on again to reset the handshake.

3. I've read posts from people where switching to PCM on the TV fixed the issue, but when I switch to PCM, the sound is stereo only, and the TV will not push out a Dolby Digital 5.1 signal.

4. Changed the HDMI-CTRL setting on the received from AUDIO 1 to AUDIO 2

5. By-passed ARC with sound through optical

Has anyone experienced this?
Hi had the same problem I have the Samsung 4K SUHD curved and RX-A1050

Your issue may be different however to cure my problem I set Netflix app to use the most data, I also had to switch from wireless to a wired network.

After that my Netflix app was perfect but be careful because binge watching 4K can rack up some serious data charges if you have a data cap and it will put you under watch of big brother.

I found that because I am disabled and watch a lot of tv that I could reach my data cap in 7 days while watching 4K streaming
My cable provider told me to update to a no limit plan would require approval from homeland security and was very costly

And honestly since I really didn't think the 4k streaming was that much better than 1080p unconverted to 4k to warrant being probed and bent over by my provider I ended up using my PS4 to watch Netflix because the audio seems to sound better than using the ARC
I prefer better audio and a decent picture than a slightly better picture soso audio at a much higher cost.
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post #9167 of 10626 Old 03-09-2017, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by EaOutlaw1969 View Post
Hi had the same problem I have the Samsung 4K SUHD curved and RX-A1050

Your issue may be different however to cure my problem I set Netflix app to use the most data, I also had to switch from wireless to a wired network.

After that my Netflix app was perfect but be careful because binge watching 4K can rack up some serious data charges if you have a data cap and it will put you under watch of big brother.

I found that because I am disabled and watch a lot of tv that I could reach my data cap in 7 days while watching 4K streaming
My cable provider told me to update to a no limit plan would require approval from homeland security and was very costly

And honestly since I really didn't think the 4k streaming was that much better than 1080p unconverted to 4k to warrant being probed and bent over by my provider I ended up using my PS4 to watch Netflix because the audio seems to sound better than using the ARC
I prefer better audio and a decent picture than a slightly better picture soso audio at a much higher cost.
Out of curiosity, what is your data cap? Mine is 1TB and I don't think I'm really approaching that level. But then, I don't binge watch TV all that often...almost never in fact. Once I retire (I plan to some day, really) I may find myself watching more.

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post #9168 of 10626 Old 03-09-2017, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by surfergr View Post
Any thoughts on the hissing sound I mentioned earlier?

PioManiac? (since you have the same receiver)
Odd request as my Master Volume at -15 peaks my ratshack SPL meter ~110 dB.
...my ears would bleed at 0.0 and there would be damage to my home and its contents.

Hacksaw Ridge:


Radioshack meter reads about 7dB low at 20Hz.

But just for the heck of it, I left my TV off and turned my RX-A3050 up to 0.0, audio input 1 engaged.(optical). Neural:X upmixer on and my old RX-V3900 that drives my 4 presence speakers is always set to 0.0....

Nothing but silence from all 11 speakers.
I need to place my ear within an inch of my most efficient speakers
(Left/Right towers) to barely percieve an audible hiss.

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post #9169 of 10626 Old 03-09-2017, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfergr View Post
Α: I think so
B: Yes, disconnected everything but the speakers a few hours ago
C: Around 0

Leave everything connected and disconnect all your speakers instead.

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post #9170 of 10626 Old 03-09-2017, 06:40 AM
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Thanks for the reply PioManiac.

I forgot to mention that the hiss is audible only when the media player (WD Live gen 3) and the PS3 are turned off. If I turn on the media player, the noise completely disappears, even if I turn the volume up to +16.5
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post #9171 of 10626 Old 03-09-2017, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Mecak View Post
I have the Sony 65" Z9D and have the same issue of split-second audio dropouts via ARC, watching Netflix, into Yamaha 3060. Happens on both DD and DD+. About once per hour.

Doesn't happen when I use PLEX Media Server app or others on the Sony, only the Netflix app, so hopefully the update will fix it.
Yup^^^^

Just a quick update for those with the ARC sound cut out issue. I picked up a Chromecast Ultra at Best Buy so that I could narrow down the issue to either the TV or my receiver/cable. I connected the Chromecast to the receiver and streamed DareDevil on Netflix in HDR and I did not experience the sound cut out at all.

It seems to me that the sound cut out is to do with HDMI ARC/SIMPLELINK or whatever. I'll stick with the Chromecast Ultra for now although it doesn't support Dolby Vision, only HDR10, which is a bummer, also no Amazon Video. But it does have better sound quality. Dolby Digital+ over DD 5.1, which is not a huge difference (or is it ) but it sounds better to my ears.

It's a shame that there is not one device that does both Netflix and Amazon Video and DV/HDR10 with good sound. It's a bummer how fragmented it all really is, there is a trade off to everything and it can be expensive when you add it all up.

Last edited by graveyardghoul; 03-09-2017 at 08:56 AM.
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post #9172 of 10626 Old 03-09-2017, 09:19 AM
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I need set my 2050 to 4k it says to not turn on the 2050 but leave it in standby mode and press a few buttons,will it show on the front panel of the 2050 in standby mode,I was told that this is they way to do it instead of using direct mode
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post #9173 of 10626 Old 03-09-2017, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by surfergr View Post


Thanks for the reply PioManiac.

I forgot to mention that the hiss is audible only when the media player (WD Live gen 3) and the PS3 are turned off. If I turn on the media player, the noise completely disappears, even if I turn the volume up to +16.5
This sound like a ground loop/noise issue. My knowledge isn't great on this topic. Try one of those media centers surge protectors that claim to filter noises. I had success with a Monster branded (got it for free) but it was analog audio.
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post #9174 of 10626 Old 03-13-2017, 07:12 AM
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I need an advice please.
I have a Bluetooth transmitter that has 3.5 mm and toslink inputs. I know the receiver has a transmitter as well and it works but we need to have two bt headsets connected in the same time.
I'd like to avoid manually connect and disconnect the 3.5 mm plug all the time into the receiver front jack so I wondering if there is a way to output from the 2050 into the toslink input of the transmitter.
My main signal source is the Nvidia Shield TV HDMI to AV1 and HDMI 1 out to Samsung TV.
The BT transmitter is called Avantree Oasis.
Thank you.
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post #9175 of 10626 Old 03-13-2017, 07:51 AM
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post #9176 of 10626 Old 03-13-2017, 01:01 PM
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I need an advice please.
I have a Bluetooth transmitter that has 3.5 mm and toslink inputs. I know the receiver has a transmitter as well and it works but we need to have two bt headsets connected in the same time.
I'd like to avoid manually connect and disconnect the 3.5 mm plug all the time into the receiver front jack so I wondering if there is a way to output from the 2050 into the toslink input of the transmitter.
My main signal source is the Nvidia Shield TV HDMI to AV1 and HDMI 1 out to Samsung TV.
The BT transmitter is called Avantree Oasis.
Thank you.
I think they removed the Toslink output from the AVR line a few generations ago.
Your best bet would be to use a 3.5mm to stereo RCA pigtail/adapter and plug it into the Zone 2 (or 3) analog out; then you can turn that zone on whenever you want to output audio to your BT TX.

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post #9177 of 10626 Old 03-14-2017, 05:58 AM
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I'd like to configure my 3050 so that one scene is used for Dolby Atmos and another scene is used for DTS:X content. In order for the decoding to work correctly the overhead speakers need to be configured so that they are named differently between Atmos and DTS:X. I can't figure out where to change that setting. If I go into manual setup and choose a presence speaker which is shown as being mounted overhead in the graphic I can select, Large, Small or None I don't see a place where I can select, Overhead, front rear height or Dolby enabled as shown in the manual... What am I doing wrong? I'm on firmware version 1.89...
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post #9178 of 10626 Old 03-14-2017, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveMcLain View Post
I'd like to configure my 3050 so that one scene is used for Dolby Atmos and another scene is used for DTS:X content. In order for the decoding to work correctly the overhead speakers need to be configured so that they are named differently between Atmos and DTS:X. I can't figure out where to change that setting. If I go into manual setup and choose a presence speaker which is shown as being mounted overhead in the graphic I can select, Large, Small or None I don't see a place where I can select, Overhead, front rear height or Dolby enabled as shown in the manual... What am I doing wrong? I'm on firmware version 1.89...
You don't want to use a "Scene", rather you want to set two different YPAO "Patterns" (p. 133 Owner's manual).
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post #9179 of 10626 Old 03-14-2017, 06:42 AM
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You don't want to use a "Scene", rather you want to set two different YPAO "Patterns" (p. 133 Owner's manual).
Right, in one of my "scenes" I would like it to be on layout 1 and have that layout define the overhead speakers as, "Overheads". Then on my other scene I'd have it use layout 2 where I define the overhead speakers differently as needed by DTS:X. What I can't seem to find is a menu where I can select height, overhead or Dolby enabled.
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post #9180 of 10626 Old 03-14-2017, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveMcLain View Post
Right, in one of my "scenes" I would like it to be on layout 1 and have that layout define the overhead speakers as, "Overheads". Then on my other scene I'd have it use layout 2 where I define the overhead speakers differently as needed by DTS:X. What I can't seem to find is a menu where I can select height, overhead or Dolby enabled.


Setup > Manual Setup > Configuration > Layout
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