The "Official" Yamaha CX-A5100 AVP Owners thread - Page 144 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4291 of 4463 Old 01-26-2019, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne A. Pflughaupt View Post
As far as I know, that feature has historically worked only one way: First select a video source, then select an audio-only source (such as CD, MD etc.). The picture from the previous video source remains on the screen. If you can find a way to get your phone’s audio into the Audio 1, 2, or 3 inputs, it will probably work. It’s easy enough to test – just go from a video input to one of the Audio inputs and see if the picture is still there. USB to audio adapters are pretty cheap.

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Unfortunately the method of using a USB audio adapter eliminates the 5100's good DACs, which is what I want in use. Seeing as the 5100 doesn't process video over USB, that should in theory work (it doesn't). Also, alas, switching to any other source, whether it's capable of video or not, kills the video image and brings up the 5100's built in background image.

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post #4292 of 4463 Old 01-26-2019, 11:03 AM
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you can combine the video from a HDMI source with the analog/spdif audio from a different source.

it's a pity that it's not as simple as in the old days anymore. I used to had a Sony TA-E1000 AV-pre back in the 90's.
that box had a "mix" button, one press, select the video source, second press, select the audio source -> ready
it worked with every input (15, in words fifteen!).

I would love to have such a function these days as well
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post #4293 of 4463 Old 01-26-2019, 03:19 PM
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Well, that’s a shame. Another good reason to hang on to my ancient RX-Z9!

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post #4294 of 4463 Old 01-27-2019, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey Mouse View Post
you can combine the video from a HDMI source with the analog/spdif audio from a different source.

it's a pity that it's not as simple as in the old days anymore. I used to had a Sony TA-E1000 AV-pre back in the 90's.
that box had a "mix" button, one press, select the video source, second press, select the audio source -> ready
it worked with every input (15, in words fifteen!).

I would love to have such a function these days as well
Still doesn't help here since a good chunk of the files I have are 192 KHz and thus require passage through either HDMI or USB to the unit's DACs (the files are mostly ultra high sampled VGM files to eliminate jaggies present at default sampling rates, especially true for NES and SNES files). With 192 KHz files I eliminated the need for Gaussian interpolation to reduce jaggies (the method the actual SNES hardware uses). Starfox sounds awesome this way.

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post #4295 of 4463 Old 01-28-2019, 01:12 AM
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the Yamaha resamples 192kHz to 96kHz anyway since it can't process it except in PureDirect mode (without processing).
and these mixing capabilities probably wouldn't be available in PureDirect, I believe.
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post #4296 of 4463 Old 01-28-2019, 05:45 PM
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Is there a significant time delay or lag when using music cast to external speakers? The wife likes to use a bluetooth speaker in the kitchen but the transmitter and speaker keep getting unpaired (like once a week which is the end of the freaking world). Thinking about getting the 5100 (or 5200) and wondered if Music cast would be an improvement.
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post #4297 of 4463 Old 01-31-2019, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey Mouse View Post
the Yamaha resamples 192kHz to 96kHz anyway since it can't process it except in PureDirect mode (without processing).
and these mixing capabilities probably wouldn't be available in PureDirect, I believe.

Why would it be resampling to 96 KHz? That kinda defeats the purpose of having 192/24 DACs.

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post #4298 of 4463 Old 02-01-2019, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squishy Tia View Post
Why would it be resampling to 96 KHz? That kinda defeats the purpose of having 192/24 DACs.
it's one of the very few devices which are able to process 96kHz, most AVR (e.g. all Audyssey and YPAO < YPAO64) are limited to 48kHz when not in Pure Direct mode.
192/24 is just for kids who attach great importance on such useless numbers. The majority of these people are "definitely" hearing the difference as long as they don't know it's no 192/24 they are listening to

if you want to take advantage of 192/24 you need to use PureDirect mode and abandon all correction features.
even this is tricky: with a 2-ch source there is no distance correction. Yamaha believes who has such a perfect room to benefit from PD will have both stereo speakers at exactly the same distance. For multi-channel this restriction doesn't apply and distance correction is active even in PD.
similar restrictions apply for DSD/SACD. This is processed natively by the DAC (without previous PCM conversion) in PureDirect only. But with a DSD signal the distance correction isn't active even for multi-channel and PD.
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post #4299 of 4463 Old 02-01-2019, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey Mouse View Post
it's one of the very few devices which are able to process 96kHz, most AVR (e.g. all Audyssey and YPAO < YPAO64) are limited to 48kHz when not in Pure Direct mode.
192/24 is just for kids who attach great importance on such useless numbers. The majority of these people are "definitely" hearing the difference as long as they don't know it's no 192/24 they are listening to

if you want to take advantage of 192/24 you need to use PureDirect mode and abandon all correction features.
even this is tricky: with a 2-ch source there is no distance correction. Yamaha believes who has such a perfect room to benefit from PD will have both stereo speakers at exactly the same distance. For multi-channel this restriction doesn't apply and distance correction is active even in PD.
similar restrictions apply for DSD/SACD. This is processed natively by the DAC (without previous PCM conversion) in PureDirect only. But with a DSD signal the distance correction isn't active even for multi-channel and PD.
That seems kind of...stupid, to be honest. Though I do most of my game music listening in pure direct mode anyway. There is a difference in my particular scenario as sampling the game audio at higher bitrate than its native does reduce the audio "jaggies" to the point where interpolation isn't necessary (e.g. SNES SPCs at 192 KHz vs. the native 32 KHz). Helps a ton with NES chiptunes as well. But yes, for nearly all prerecorded sources I can see the point, though that does beg the question still as to why, given that there are blu-ray lossless tracks at 192 KHz. Depending on the music one would definitely notice the downsampling in a direct A/B with a good USB DAC.

Do you happen to know if the resampling is limited to bitstream tracks, or is it also applied to all PCM tracks as well? All of my output outside of DVD Player in OS X is 192 KHz PCM in stereo. I only activate multichannel for World of Warcraft, and even that's gone from the equation ever since Blizzard killed off exclusive fullscreen mode, destroying my ability to accomodate my disabilities (blind in right eye, deformed right arm w/ spasms). It wouldn't make sense to resample when there is a direct PCM signal, especially in two channel mode.

Of course, this really gets to the heart of transparency in advertising, which from what you say, means Yamaha is essentially lying about its DAC capabilities if only PD mode utilizes it. Is there anything that actually documents this scenario for me to read up on?

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post #4300 of 4463 Old 02-02-2019, 12:29 AM
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no, you misunderstand it!
Yamaha is not lying about the DAC capabilities, if you switch off YPAO (PureDirect) a 192kHz/24bit signal is converted 1:1 by the DAC without downsampling.
YPAO64 is not capable of processing signals "higher" than 96kHz and Audyssey not above 48kHz, that's not DAC related.

I really suggest to look at and try to understand this fantastic video about:
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post #4301 of 4463 Old 02-02-2019, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey Mouse View Post
no, you misunderstand it!
Yamaha is not lying about the DAC capabilities, if you switch off YPAO (PureDirect) a 192kHz/24bit signal is converted 1:1 by the DAC without downsampling.
YPAO64 is not capable of processing signals "higher" than 96kHz and Audyssey not above 48kHz, that's not DAC related.

I really suggest to look at and try to understand this fantastic video about: no stair steps in digital audio
Ah, so it's effectively a room correction limitation then. What's annoying is that PD mode sends nothing to the sub (when I feel like some thumps). Would be nice if at least the main channels (L/R) would get sub output from PD, but that'd require internal splitting and thus defeat the PD mode's intentions. Thankfully I can still get most of the bass I want from my RTi-A9s.

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post #4302 of 4463 Old 02-05-2019, 07:53 AM
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Does anyone own this combo


CX-5100A
Nvidia Shield TV
LG C8


I'm having an issue where the Nvidia Shield refuses to connect higher than 8bit for HDR content. If I change to 30fps and 12bit I can do HDR on Netflix and Prime. I don't even see an option for 12bit 60fps.
I'm at a loss in what is going on. I have plugged it into many different ports on my 5100a. I have also plugged the Shield straight into my TV, I have reset both the Shield and the TV. I'm at a loss in what could
be causing this.


thanks
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post #4303 of 4463 Old 02-05-2019, 09:29 AM
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So far it seems it is either the Shield doing something funny to my CX-5100 or the CX-5100 doesn;'t truly support HDR. I'm on the latest firmware.



If I plugin the Shield to HDMI4 and then connect my receiver to HDMI2 it works but this means that the Shield cannot be connected to the CX-5100 at all.
If I plugin the Shield to any port in the receiver, it is downgraded to 8bit
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post #4304 of 4463 Old 02-05-2019, 09:58 AM
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but you have changed the HDMI mode in the advanced settings from 2 (default) to 1?
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post #4305 of 4463 Old 02-05-2019, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
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but you have changed the HDMI mode in the advanced settings from 2 (default) to 1?

not sure what you mean by that? where am I changing that?
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post #4306 of 4463 Old 02-05-2019, 10:14 AM
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manual page 147:

Quote:
Select the format of signals input/output at the unit when HDMI 4K (60 Hz/50Hz) compatible TV and playback device are connected to the unit.
Mode 1
Inputs/outputs 4K (60 Hz/50 Hz) signals in 4:4:4, 4:2:2 or 4:2:0 format. (4:2:0 format only for VIDEO AUX [HDMI IN] jack)
Depending on the connected devices or HDMI cables, videos may not be displayed correctly. In this case, select “MODE 2”.

Mode 2
Inputs/outputs 4K (60 Hz/50 Hz) signals in 4:2:0 format.
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post #4307 of 4463 Old 02-05-2019, 10:57 AM
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manual page 147:



thank you SOOOO MUCH.... after I thought about it I figured it was some mode that I never touched. So I did a search for advanced mode in the manual and found it was when you had the unit off. I now have it working in mode 1 like you said. So happy!!!!
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post #4308 of 4463 Old 02-07-2019, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by sullysnet View Post
thank you SOOOO MUCH.... after I thought about it I figured it was some mode that I never touched. So I did a search for advanced mode in the manual and found it was when you had the unit off. I now have it working in mode 1 like you said. So happy!!!!

You might find it easier to access settings like are in 'advanced mode' by using the web setup interface.

type in your ip address for the 5100 followed by /setup/
so it might look like mine 192.168.1.25/setup/
Its different then the 'Web Control Center' that is only the ip numbers.
The setup interface has everything right there to adjust. No need for pressing and holding buttons etc.
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post #4309 of 4463 Old 02-09-2019, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by rotohead View Post
You might find it easier to access settings like are in 'advanced mode' by using the web setup interface.

type in your ip address for the 5100 followed by /setup/
so it might look like mine 192.168.1.25/setup/
Its different then the 'Web Control Center' that is only the ip numbers.
The setup interface has everything right there to adjust. No need for pressing and holding buttons etc.
Additionally, once you've set up everything to your liking, you can go back to the "regular" web UI (just the IP numbers without /setup at the end) and use its Backup function to save your preferences to a file on your computer which you can then load later if you ever need to after say, having to reset the processor in the prepro. It's always handy to have backups around.
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post #4310 of 4463 Old 02-11-2019, 10:41 AM
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Did anyone else have problems setting up macros on the remote?

I am following the steps in the owners manual and just cannot get one to work.

I ran the code for my TV so the TV power button will turn on my TV.

I have the AV1 button named TV just because it is HDMI input one which is for my TV.

All I am trying to do is below:
Turn on TV
Than turn on A5100
Assign those two functions to the AV1(TV) button.

Trying to do it in that order since if I go , A5100 than TV the handshake does not work and it outputs the sound through my TV instead of my amps.

I am at the latest firmware for the unit.

Any help getting my head out of my a$$ would be appreciated.
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post #4311 of 4463 Old 02-16-2019, 04:07 PM
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is there a way to setup the sub hz? Or is this predefined or should I set it at my sub? That's how I do it now since I didn't find any setting. I can set all the other speakers besides the sub, it seems.


thanks
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post #4312 of 4463 Old 02-17-2019, 01:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sullysnet View Post
I can set all the other speakers besides the sub, it seems.
exactly that's the point!

the LFE (the "dot-one" in 5/7.1) is predefined in the specifications or by the mixing studio (e.g. DD 120Hz and dts 80Hz (or the other way around? doesn't matter)) and the LFE goes 1:1 to the subwoofer (if present). If you cut the subwoofer "somewhere else" you'll loose parts of the LFE signal -> NEVER do this!

and the other parts are given by the cross-over points of the small defined speakers.

example (pretty bad scenario ):
- subwoofer set to 60Hz at his own low-pass
- Atmos ceiling speakers set to 150Hz
- center speaker set to 80Hz
- movie sound with LFE up to 120Hz and additional low frequencies at all channels
-> LFE between 60 ... 120Hz lost
-> small(est) speakers (150Hz) signal between 60 ... 150Hz lost
-> center speaker signal between 60 ... 80Hz lost
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post #4313 of 4463 Old 02-17-2019, 05:18 AM
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Exactly.

I was going to reply that trhe subwoofer crossover should be set as high as the sub will play and no speaker crossover set higher than that, ideally a bit lower so nothing gets lost and a good blend is acheived, if the speakers do not go low enough to do this, new speakers should be acquired.
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post #4314 of 4463 Old 02-17-2019, 10:58 AM
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my fronts go to 60hz I recall but maybe lower. I think I need to turn off the crossover on my sub from what you are telling me. thanks
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post #4315 of 4463 Old 02-17-2019, 11:32 AM
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I run only my back surrounds and the 4 presence speakers on "small". That's what YPAO picks as well. And I run my Z11 bass setting on "both". I have front L&R subs that are the same model, plus a sub on the center channel and L&R surround channels use the same model subs. My setup is probably what everyone says not to do, but it's a sealed well treated room and it sounds great to me and everyone who's heard it. Point is-You need to experiment with different settings as there is no single setup and room that is the same.

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post #4316 of 4463 Old 02-18-2019, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sullysnet View Post
my fronts go to 60hz I recall but maybe lower. I think I need to turn off the crossover on my sub from what you are telling me. thanks
Yes, I always disable the crossover on my subs. You don't need it as your AVR will perform the crossover in support of your other speakers and you don't want a crossover on the LFE channel.
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post #4317 of 4463 Old 02-18-2019, 10:40 AM
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so I guess it was already disable but I had it on the wrong port which probably enable it. Now it's on the lfe xlr port. thanks
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post #4318 of 4463 Old 02-25-2019, 03:47 PM
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Has anyone set the gain on this unit to work with pro amps?

I have been trying for the few days and cannot get any of 0dbfs files to produce a waveform on my oscope.

I had no problem doing this on my Onkyo 885. I just placed the disk in my Toshiba XA2, ran one of the files and could get a waveform from the XLR cable, and proceed from there.

I have tried both my blu ray and Toshiba and get nothing. I was able to put one of files on a thumb drive and can get the waveform.

With that, I have to believe there is a setting somewhere that I have missed that is stopping the files from being read and ran through the unit.

I thought I had seen someone do this in this thread but my searching fu is not working correctly.

Any help would be appreciated.
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post #4319 of 4463 Old 02-26-2019, 12:54 AM
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If you are getting nothing at all that does not sound like a gain issue, it sounds like no output. Do test tones play on speakers, can you see them on the scope?
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post #4320 of 4463 Old 02-26-2019, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemesis.ie View Post
If you are getting nothing at all that does not sound like a gain issue, it sounds like no output. Do test tones play on speakers, can you see them on the scope?
Nemesis.ie,

You are correct that what I described is not in fact not a gain issue and I probably should have described it better, but setting the gain structure with my pro amps is the goal.

Test tones do play from the processor but I have not tried to catch those on the scope since that is more of a pink noise and will not display as a sinewave, but it would still show up on the oscope so I will see if I can catch them.

Since I do see the sine waves perfectly from the USB stick, but not from either “disk” player, I just feel that maybe a setting is wrong.

I have had this processor for a few years but have only had it in the system for a few months so I am not 100% familiar with it. I have been reading through the manual and checking the system though the IPaddress/setup to see if I can find anything.

Thank you, James
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