Pioneer Elite AVR's.. SC-95, SC-97 SC-99 - Page 268 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #8011 of 8053 Old 05-23-2019, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by humbland View Post
HELP! (please)
We were watching Aquaman (in DTS-Master Audio) last night. Volume was high. One of the underwater fight scenes had all of the speakers driven at a high level.
All of a sudden our SC-97 shut down completely. The display was dark, except for a small blinking blue light on the right side. I unplugged the power cord and let it sit for a minute. I then plugged it back in and the AVR returned to "normal" operation. Then I turned down the volume and we finished the movie.
We have had (and enjoyed) the SC-97 for years now with no issues. We have watched many action adventure flicks at high volume. Never before had a shut down...
Thoughts?
This was a bluray?.
What DSP Mode where you listening to?.
What was the master volume level?
The light that was blinking. Was it labled ATT?.

Twin Pioneer AVR Locomotives-Elite SC 97, SC 1222 7.2.4, DOLBY Atmos and DTS X, (Front Pre Out,) JBL Pro Synthesis LS Series Speakers, F L R-LS80, Cen-LS, S L R-LS60, SB L R-LS60, 4 Dolby Atmos Enabled Klipsch R41SA, Twin Klipsch R120SW. Mitz 73740 DLP, Sony UBP-X800, ATV G4, Yamaha ATS 1060 Sound Bar, True Depth Firestorm 2.0 3D Glasses, Harmony Hub with Utlimate 1 Remote, Broadlink RM Pro2, EYE Pad Air, Winegard FL6550A
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post #8012 of 8053 Old 05-23-2019, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by LNEWoLF View Post
This was a bluray?.
What DSP Mode where you listening to?.
What was the master volume level?
The light that was blinking. Was it labled ATT?.
First of all, thanks for answering.
Yes, it was a Bluray.
The SC-97 is in another room, but the remote control DSP setting was on "Automatic". When I checked the disc, the "Audio" setting button was on DTS-Master Audio. When the AVR rebooted, and we started the disc again, the AVR display showed "DTS-MA".
Master volume level was perhaps -15 or so. It was loud, but not ear splitting. However the scene was protracted.
I'm not sure what the indicator light said (reading glasses were not on) but I think it said "Wireless". It is right below the IR remote sensor. It did not seem like a system "alarm" or "overload" indicator?
Amy ideas?

Last edited by humbland; 05-23-2019 at 12:12 PM.
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post #8013 of 8053 Old 05-23-2019, 11:50 AM
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Hey guys, thought I'd drop in and say "hey". Been awhile. Still loving the hell out of my system. Only minor problem I still have, rarely (every 4 or 5 months), is sinc issues with my iPad for a few days, then, somehow fixes itself and no probs for several months again. If that's all I ever have to deal with, I'm a happy camper.

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post #8014 of 8053 Old 05-23-2019, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post
First of all, thanks for answering.
Yes, it was a Bluray.
The SC-97 is in another room, but the remote control DSP setting was on "Automatic". When I checked the disc, the "Audio" setting button was on DTS-Master Audio. When the AVR rebooted, and we started the disc again, the AVR display showed "DTS-MA".
Master volume level was perhaps -15 or so. It was loud, but not ear splitting. However the scene was protracted.
I'm not sure what the indicator light said (reading glasses were not on) but I think it said "Wireless". It is right below the IR remote sensor. It did not seem like a system "alarm" or "overload" indicator?
Amy ideas?
UPDATE: Just [email protected]@ked in owners manual. Check owners manual under troubleshooting. There is reference to the wireless light blinking. Page 122 section 13. Check for speaker wire strands if AVR powers off and blue wireless light is blinking.

Otherwise, a couple ideas.

Unfortunately with the AVR located in another room makes it nearly impossible to see what is happening at the exact moment of the event.

Have you been able to duplicate the event. If so, maybe start the scene where the event occurs. A couple minutes before the event. So you can walk into the other room and [email protected]@k at the front display to see if any warnings display and what happens.

Master volume level is close to what I listen too. From past discussions in this thread. Similar MVL to what others have stated. Although I have noticed most recent UHD and Bluray movies over the last two years. I usually am listening at -10.0 to -12.0 Master Volume Level (MVL.)

There is an input ATT that lights when the input signal level is distorted. It can be turned on/off in the audio setting menu.

The wireless blinking blue and also the HDMI will blink blue until communications link are established. They will turn solid blue when the link is established. I would SWAG that the blinking blue wireless is an after effect of the AVR rebooting and re establishing it’s link again.

I would try to duplicate the event. Watch the front display. Make sure your display is not dimmed or off mode.

Check all your wiring connections to and from Inputs, outputs, speaker connections. They can come loose overtime. Also [email protected]@k for any loose strand of speaker wire that may be close to any speaker terminal on AVR and speaker.

There maybe an event log located within the secret menu (service mode.) If you can find a service manual pdf for the 97. I’m sure it would be listed in there as well as other things to check.

Good luck..........

Twin Pioneer AVR Locomotives-Elite SC 97, SC 1222 7.2.4, DOLBY Atmos and DTS X, (Front Pre Out,) JBL Pro Synthesis LS Series Speakers, F L R-LS80, Cen-LS, S L R-LS60, SB L R-LS60, 4 Dolby Atmos Enabled Klipsch R41SA, Twin Klipsch R120SW. Mitz 73740 DLP, Sony UBP-X800, ATV G4, Yamaha ATS 1060 Sound Bar, True Depth Firestorm 2.0 3D Glasses, Harmony Hub with Utlimate 1 Remote, Broadlink RM Pro2, EYE Pad Air, Winegard FL6550A

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post #8015 of 8053 Old 05-25-2019, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by LNEWoLF View Post
UPDATE: Just [email protected]@ked in owners manual. Check owners manual under troubleshooting. There is reference to the wireless light blinking. Page 122 section 13. Check for speaker wire strands if AVR powers off and blue wireless light is blinking.

Otherwise, a couple ideas.

Unfortunately with the AVR located in another room makes it nearly impossible to see what is happening at the exact moment of the event.

Have you been able to duplicate the event. If so, maybe start the scene where the event occurs. A couple minutes before the event. So you can walk into the other room and [email protected]@k at the front display to see if any warnings display and what happens.

Master volume level is close to what I listen too. From past discussions in this thread. Similar MVL to what others have stated. Although I have noticed most recent UHD and Bluray movies over the last two years. I usually am listening at -10.0 to -12.0 Master Volume Level (MVL.)

There is an input ATT that lights when the input signal level is distorted. It can be turned on/off in the audio setting menu.

The wireless blinking blue and also the HDMI will blink blue until communications link are established. They will turn solid blue when the link is established. I would SWAG that the blinking blue wireless is an after effect of the AVR rebooting and re establishing it’s link again.

I would try to duplicate the event. Watch the front display. Make sure your display is not dimmed or off mode.

Check all your wiring connections to and from Inputs, outputs, speaker connections. They can come loose overtime. Also [email protected]@k for any loose strand of speaker wire that may be close to any speaker terminal on AVR and speaker.

There maybe an event log located within the secret menu (service mode.) If you can find a service manual pdf for the 97. I’m sure it would be listed in there as well as other things to check.

Good luck..........
I wanted to say thanks for the advice.
I have not been able to duplicate the shutdown event. I guess that's a good thing???
In any case, I pulled the rack apart and checked for loose wires or short circuits. Nothing jumped out at me.
Service menu operations are above my pay grade. I'm just keeping my fingers crossed at this point.
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post #8016 of 8053 Old 05-25-2019, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by humbland View Post
I wanted to say thanks for the advice.
I have not been able to duplicate the shutdown event. I guess that's a good thing???
In any case, I pulled the rack apart and checked for loose wires or short circuits. Nothing jumped out at me.
Service menu operations are above my pay grade. I'm just keeping my fingers crossed at this point.
Your welcome, good luck........

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post #8017 of 8053 Old 05-25-2019, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Snoogleheimer View Post
Hey guys, thought I'd drop in and say "hey". Been awhile. Still loving the hell out of my system. Only minor problem I still have, rarely (every 4 or 5 months), is sinc issues with my iPad for a few days, then, somehow fixes itself and no probs for several months again. If that's all I ever have to deal with, I'm a happy camper.
Hey [email protected]@gle, glad to hear your still enjoying your system. ME too, I am VERY happy. Impressed more and more with each movie I watch or music I listen too in 7.2.4

I experienced similar with the AV5 app. Maybe 4-5 months. It would not communicate with my AVR’s. I would need to disconnect their power cords and reboot the wireless router.

A couple months ago I connected all my living room theater (LRT) devices to a separate wireless router. That is not connected to the Internet. The AV5 app connects very quickly and so far has been very stable in controlling both AVR’s. I have had to power down and pull the AVR plug a couple times. Due to not being able to access or control my media server connected to the LRT wireless router. In further diagnosing the concern. I have discovered that most of the time. I can simply close the AV5 app and then open the app again.

I only have to pull the plug if it did not find my media server initially. It usually displays “please wait........” on the front display and AV5 app.

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post #8018 of 8053 Old 05-25-2019, 12:15 PM
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Yes, sometimes just rebooting my iPad does the trick. Anyway, like I said, if unplugging my SC-99 every 6 months is my only gripe, I'd say that's pretty good.

I haven't tweaked anything in over a year. After many trials and errors, found what I liked and left it. Life is good.

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post #8019 of 8053 Old 05-26-2019, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by LNEWoLF View Post
Hey [email protected]@gle, glad to hear your still enjoying your system. ME too, I am VERY happy. Impressed more and more with each movie I watch or music I listen too in 7.2.4

I experienced similar with the AV5 app. Maybe 4-5 months. It would not communicate with my AVR’s. I would need to disconnect their power cords and reboot the wireless router.

A couple months ago I connected all my living room theater (LRT) devices to a separate wireless router. That is not connected to the Internet. The AV5 app connects very quickly and so far has been very stable in controlling both AVR’s. I have had to power down and pull the AVR plug a couple times. Due to not being able to access or control my media server connected to the LRT wireless router. In further diagnosing the concern. I have discovered that most of the time. I can simply close the AV5 app and then open the app again.

I only have to pull the plug if it did not find my media server initially. It usually displays “please wait........” on the front display and AV5 app.
Sometimes AV5 won't communicate because the receiver IP changed when the receiver and/or router cycled power for whatever reason. I think you can assign a fixed IP on the receiver to avoid this problem.

How do you communicate from the media server to the receiver? I used to use my pc as a media server, coax to the receiver and control with Windows Media Player. Now I just copy my music to my phone and Bluetooth to the receiver. It's so much easier to change tracks this way. It's not always stable but I can't tell any difference in quality.
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post #8020 of 8053 Old 05-26-2019, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by LNEWoLF View Post
The wireless blinking blue and also the HDMI will blink blue until communications link are established. They will turn solid blue when the link is established. I would SWAG that the blinking blue wireless is an after effect of the AVR rebooting and re establishing it’s link again.
I agree.
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post #8021 of 8053 Old 05-26-2019, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by humbland View Post
First of all, thanks for answering.

Yes, it was a Bluray.

The SC-97 is in another room, but the remote control DSP setting was on "Automatic". When I checked the disc, the "Audio" setting button was on DTS-Master Audio. When the AVR rebooted, and we started the disc again, the AVR display showed "DTS-MA".

Master volume level was perhaps -15 or so. It was loud, but not ear splitting. However the scene was protracted.

I'm not sure what the indicator light said (reading glasses were not on) but I think it said "Wireless". It is right below the IR remote sensor. It did not seem like a system "alarm" or "overload" indicator?

Amy ideas?
My first thought was overheating. Did you happen to feel the top right after it shut down? Is there adequate ventilation around it?

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post #8022 of 8053 Old 05-26-2019, 01:52 PM
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My first thought was overheating. Did you happen to feel the top right after it shut down? Is there adequate ventilation around it?

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There is great ventilation around the unit. The amps were indeed working hard. However, the top of the AVR did not seem any warmer than usual.
In my experience, when there is a thermal shutdown, there is usually some sort of "indication". In this case, the SC-97 just shut down. I waited for about 2 minutes, then unpluged the AC. Waited another minute, then plugged it back in. The AVR then worked normally
First ever event of it's kind. Not sure what to make of it. Keeping my fingers crossed...
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post #8023 of 8053 Old 05-29-2019, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by a_ok2me View Post
Sometimes AV5 won't communicate because the receiver IP changed when the receiver and/or router cycled power for whatever reason. I think you can assign a fixed IP on the receiver to avoid this problem.

How do you communicate from the media server to the receiver? I used to use my pc as a media server, coax to the receiver and control with Windows Media Player. Now I just copy my music to my phone and Bluetooth to the receiver. It's so much easier to change tracks this way. It's not always stable but I can't tell any difference in quality.
Yes to improve stability of the AV5 app connection. Go into your wireless router settings and assign a static IP address (DHCP Reservation) for the AVR. The wireless router assigns IP addresses for each connected device. At times it can change the IP address for a device. By selecting a static IP address it will use the same IP address for the device. Without changing it. Which can improve stability in connecting to the wireless router.

I use the media server input to connect to a hard drive (NAS drive) connected to the USB port on my wireless router. Connected via an ethernet cable from the wireless router to the SC97. I control the media server with the AV5 app.

Twin Pioneer AVR Locomotives-Elite SC 97, SC 1222 7.2.4, DOLBY Atmos and DTS X, (Front Pre Out,) JBL Pro Synthesis LS Series Speakers, F L R-LS80, Cen-LS, S L R-LS60, SB L R-LS60, 4 Dolby Atmos Enabled Klipsch R41SA, Twin Klipsch R120SW. Mitz 73740 DLP, Sony UBP-X800, ATV G4, Yamaha ATS 1060 Sound Bar, True Depth Firestorm 2.0 3D Glasses, Harmony Hub with Utlimate 1 Remote, Broadlink RM Pro2, EYE Pad Air, Winegard FL6550A

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post #8024 of 8053 Old 05-29-2019, 11:32 AM
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General. Then simplink. Make sure that's on. When I shut that off arc doesn't work.

1. Make sure arc is turned on for the reciever
2. Make sure you are plugged into hdmi 2 on the TV
3. Make sure simplink is on.
4. On the TV under sound make sure audio out digital is on auto and simplink is on

With these settings arc works great. Occasionally I lose sound and need to power cycle the TV.
I know this is pretty old, but were you ever able to get this to work? I have a different TV, TCL P605 with the SC-95 and have never been able to get ARC to fully work. I can hear menu sounds coming through the AVR to the speakers, but no audio when using any apps like netflix, etc. I have been using an optical cable, which works, but obviously I can't get Atmos through there and have to upconvert dolby digital to dolby surround. If anyone has any suggestions on how to get ARC to fully work with this combination let me know. I have not updated to the latest FW that you need to use a USB stick, mainly because of all the horror stories I have read about bricking units. The last FW update I have was the last one that you could do over the network...I believe it was the one that provided DTS X support, because I know I have that.

Thanks.
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post #8025 of 8053 Old 05-29-2019, 11:46 AM
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So for those of you who use the different filters on the audio upscaling, what do you prefer? Slow, Short, or Sharp? Also, what kind of speakers do you have and do you think that has an effect on your choice?
Personally, I prefer Sharp. I noticed a difference between sharp and slow, less pronounced between sharp and short. No one else seems to notice this, but I definitely did.

I have Klipsch speakers paired to my SC-95...quite a variation really. I have a klipsch reference premier 404-C for my center, Heresy's for my front, and an old pair of klipsch floor standers, Icon's, KF-28's if my memory serves for the surrounds. I also use KEF C series bookshelves tilted up towards the ceiling as atmos speakers. I use to use a Klipsch RC-52 ii as my center, but the 404-C seems to match my Heresy's better so have switched to that after trialing it. To be honest I felt like I noticed a larger difference with the filters using the RC-52ii than I do with the 404-c, but it may have just been what I was listening to at the time, or poor memory.
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post #8026 of 8053 Old 06-01-2019, 09:46 AM
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I had the same problem with the icontrolAV5 app. I had my Pioneer LX89 (in US SC-99) connected to my router via a Devolo DLAN Powerline (Ethernet over power 110/220 Volt) + Ethernet Switch.
Now I have replaced this connection with a simple WiFi repeater and used the repeater LAN bus to connect it with an ethernet cable to the Pioneer LX89.
This immediately solved all my problems. No disconnect since then. I also use the fix IP adress in the pioneer settings.
It seems that the Pioneer AVR's are reacting very sensitive on any network extensions like the powerline + switch. So try to connect to the router as direct as possible.
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post #8027 of 8053 Old 06-09-2019, 09:07 PM
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Hey all , I'm sorry if I'm repeating or missed it , but does anyone know a good repair shop in the Los Angeles area? My SC-95 just decided to stop passing any video signal . Well , more accurately , every so often it kind of tries , I get a little flickering , but then no signal . Tested the source (multiple) and they are all passing signal when I bypass the receiver and plug directly into a monitor , and switched hdmi cable for ones that work for sure to make sure it wasn't the HDMI cable running to my projector . Factory reset the receiver and nothing changed .

According to Pioneers website they don't do factory repair on AV equipment , I'm hoping they can point me in a direction tomorrow when they are open , but figured I would ask in here . I really don't want to have to shop receivers again , I thought I had picked my long term receiver in this thing . Thanks

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post #8028 of 8053 Old 06-10-2019, 07:17 AM
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It’s the HDMI board needs replacing. If they have the part, they can just swap the board, re-do the firmware, and you’ll be good to go in 24-48 hours.

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post #8029 of 8053 Old 06-10-2019, 11:01 AM
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Hey all , I'm sorry if I'm repeating or missed it , but does anyone know a good repair shop in the Los Angeles area? My SC-95 just decided to stop passing any video signal . Well , more accurately , every so often it kind of tries , I get a little flickering , but then no signal . Tested the source (multiple) and they are all passing signal when I bypass the receiver and plug directly into a monitor , and switched hdmi cable for ones that work for sure to make sure it wasn't the HDMI cable running to my projector . Factory reset the receiver and nothing changed .



According to Pioneers website they don't do factory repair on AV equipment , I'm hoping they can point me in a direction tomorrow when they are open , but figured I would ask in here . I really don't want to have to shop receivers again , I thought I had picked my long term receiver in this thing . Thanks


Is it every HDMI port or just one? I suffered a number of audio issues with one port but the video worked ok.

I had the amplifier in one of my subwoofers go out and this shop fixed it fine for $100 https://www.yelp.com/biz/brent-servi...q=Audio+Repair These devices are so complex I personally wouldn’t spend more than $300 to repair it. There are comparable receivers available now from $600 when on sale although without the sweet class d amps in our SC95s.


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post #8030 of 8053 Old 06-10-2019, 11:04 AM
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Looks like my yelp link didn’t work. Here is the company website https://www.brenttv.com/


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post #8031 of 8053 Old 06-10-2019, 03:21 PM
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Its the output HDMI , all of the outputs stopped sending video . Inputs I assume were still working , I could get audio from all the inputs I use by unplugging the source and hooking my shield to each and casting to it from my phone ( only way I could think of to get something with no video output to see what I was doing ) .

I'm pretty sure its the HDMI board too , the problem was Pioneers website sucks . I navigated to their find a service center option 3 different ways , and each returned zero results .

This morning I called Pioneer and they gave me the info on one of their authorized repair centers George Meyer https://www.georgemeyer-av.com/
The CS agent said this shop does warranty repair as well as non-warranty , I found my receipt just after getting off the phone , I'm a year out of warranty so this will be out of pocket . Unfortunately they told me that it will be at least 2 weeks before their tech can dig into my unit to see how much its going to cost to fix. This shop charges $80 up front for troubleshooting , that goes toward the repair if you go with the fix .

Thanks for the link USC , I had them pulled up last night when I looked for receiver repair before contacting Pioneer . I'm with you on the price of repair , I might go a little bit more because of the class D amps , the DAC , and honestly , I got this thing for a small fraction of full retail (1/3) so I'm still way under the cost of admission if I sink a few hundred into it .

I picked up a Denon S940 to fill the gap until I find out about the Pioneer , steep discount again , because this is my primary watching/listening setup with a projector so I need something to run speakers etc. I can either move this into the bedroom , or sell it and probably make a little money to help pay for the repairs .

Thanks guys

Turn that $*!# UP!! --Beethoven
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post #8032 of 8053 Old 06-18-2019, 05:16 AM
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Quick question about firmware update on this receiver.

I am considering purchasing a used Pioneer Elite SC-97/99 receiver. I have a question about the firmware update to this receiver. Is it REQUIRED that I have to update these two receivers to the latest firmware update or are they optional? I would like to know if it is possible to downgrade the firmware update (USB) to the firmware update before they remove DTS Neo: X and replaced it with DTS:X and DTS Neural X? I have a soundbar with both Dolby Surround and DTS X/Neural X and I prefer Dolby Surround for everything. Dolby Surround does a wonderful job with practically any material that I input into. DSU. So far, I have not been impressed with DTS Neural X. It does some strange "stuff" with vocal sometimes. Just a quick question.

Thanks!
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post #8033 of 8053 Old 06-18-2019, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by NO_Sts895 View Post
I am considering purchasing a used Pioneer Elite SC-97/99 receiver. I have a question about the firmware update to this receiver. Is it REQUIRED that I have to update these two receivers to the latest firmware update or are they optional? I would like to know if it is possible to downgrade the firmware update (USB) to the firmware update before they remove DTS Neo: X and replaced it with DTS:X and DTS Neural X? I have a soundbar with both Dolby Surround and DTS X/Neural X and I prefer Dolby Surround for everything. Dolby Surround does a wonderful job with practically any material that I input into. DSU. So far, I have not been impressed with DTS Neural X. It does some strange "stuff" with vocal sometimes. Just a quick question.



Thanks!


I am almost positive you will not be able to downgrade the firmware. If you dislike DTS that much you may be able to have your source output only PCM or Dolby Digital which would get upmixed to DSU. What sources will you be using? I have an older Blu-ray player connected that I have set to output multichannel PCM just for the ability to play around with the upmixers.


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post #8034 of 8053 Old 06-18-2019, 07:25 PM
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I am almost positive you will not be able to downgrade the firmware. If you dislike DTS that much you may be able to have your source output only PCM or Dolby Digital which would get upmixed to DSU. What sources will you be using? I have an older Blu-ray player connected that I have set to output multichannel PCM just for the ability to play around with the upmixers.


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Thanks for the reply back! That is what I thought. I am not allowed to downgrade the firmware. No problem! Time to move to the present? BTW..I do not dislike DTS at all. I just wanted to experience and see how DTS Neo: X sounded as a Sound Mode. I have heard DTS Neo 6 and DTS:X in my equipment; however, I just wanted to experience DTS Neo: X for a while before I upgrade to a new receiver in a few years. I have no DTS:X discs and I mainly stream my Dolby Atmos from Netflix. Honestly, I have not heard DTS Virtual:X yet. I would not mind having that sound mode on a receiver. The reviews that I have read online state that it sounds pretty good.

BTW..I have an Apple TV 4k and an Amazon Fire Stick 4k for my streaming content. In addition, I have a Sony UHD Player (UBP-X700) for my UHD/DVD play. Finally, I have an old Panasonic Blu-Ray player (BP-35) that I used from time-to-time. I usually play my content in Bitstream.

Thanks for the helpful comments. BTW..I enjoy DTS Neural:X as an upmixer. It uses a more aggressive approach to the height channels? That is what I read online in reviews.
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post #8035 of 8053 Old 06-19-2019, 09:42 AM
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Thanks for the reply back! That is what I thought. I am not allowed to downgrade the firmware. No problem! Time to move to the present? BTW..I do not dislike DTS at all. I just wanted to experience and see how DTS Neo: X sounded as a Sound Mode. I have heard DTS Neo 6 and DTS:X in my equipment; however, I just wanted to experience DTS Neo: X for a while before I upgrade to a new receiver in a few years. I have no DTS:X discs and I mainly stream my Dolby Atmos from Netflix. Honestly, I have not heard DTS Virtual:X yet. I would not mind having that sound mode on a receiver. The reviews that I have read online state that it sounds pretty good.

BTW..I have an Apple TV 4k and an Amazon Fire Stick 4k for my streaming content. In addition, I have a Sony UHD Player (UBP-X700) for my UHD/DVD play. Finally, I have an old Panasonic Blu-Ray player (BP-35) that I used from time-to-time. I usually play my content in Bitstream.

Thanks for the helpful comments. BTW..I enjoy DTS Neural:X as an upmixer. It uses a more aggressive approach to the height channels? That is what I read online in reviews.
DTS Neural X is basically the same as Neo X but more advanced. Neo X expects a speaker lay out of your base 7 speakers + wides + front heights whereas Neural X has a number of different options with most of us choosing either 7 + Front Height + Rear Height or 7 + Top Front + Top Rear to work with Atmos as well. The only bluray I have encoded in Neo X is Dredd and it plays just fine via my SC95 and my 7.2.4 system using Neural X. There is a bonus section with an 11 channel callout on the disc that puts all of the sounds exactly where they are supposed to be. You won't be missing anything by not having Neo X! Neural X does tend to be more aggressive than DSU and depending on the content I often prefer it. I find it better for action movies over other content and I find it terrible for music compared to DSU but you may decide differently.
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post #8036 of 8053 Old 06-20-2019, 03:39 PM
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DTS Neural X is basically the same as Neo X but more advanced. Neo X expects a speaker lay out of your base 7 speakers + wides + front heights whereas Neural X has a number of different options with most of us choosing either 7 + Front Height + Rear Height or 7 + Top Front + Top Rear to work with Atmos as well. The only bluray I have encoded in Neo X is Dredd and it plays just fine via my SC95 and my 7.2.4 system using Neural X. There is a bonus section with an 11 channel callout on the disc that puts all of the sounds exactly where they are supposed to be. You won't be missing anything by not having Neo X! Neural X does tend to be more aggressive than DSU and depending on the content I often prefer it. I find it better for action movies over other content and I find it terrible for music compared to DSU but you may decide differently.
Hello. Thanks for your helpful comments about DTS X being the more advanced version of DTS Neo: X. In all honesty, I would say that the layout for DTS:X would work out better for my current layout versus the DTS Neo X layout. In addition, I have read from other people online that DTS X being more aggressive than Dolby Surround. That would work out great for action movies and movies with a lot of sound effects. I have DTS Neural X and Dolby Surround on my Pioneer Elite soundbar and your thoughts echo mine.

I do have one more questions about these family of Pioneer Elite speakers. Can these receivers pass a Dolby Vision signal? I have grown rather "fond" of the Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos content on Netflix recently. My Pioneer Elite soundbar can pass a Dolby Vision signal and do Dolby Atmos. It was an odyssey just trying to find a product that would play "nicely" with my 2016 LG Oled TV.

Thanks for all your helpful comments today! BTW..I love the USC Trojans "Fight Song"! One of my "all-time" favorite songs to hear during college football games.
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post #8037 of 8053 Old 06-20-2019, 03:58 PM
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Hello. Thanks for your helpful comments about DTS X being the more advanced version of DTS Neo: X. In all honesty, I would say that the layout for DTS:X would work out better for my current layout versus the DTS Neo X layout. In addition, I have read from other people online that DTS X being more aggressive than Dolby Surround. That would work out great for action movies and movies with a lot of sound effects. I have DTS Neural X and Dolby Surround on my Pioneer Elite soundbar and your thoughts echo mine.

I do have one more questions about these family of Pioneer Elite speakers. Can these receivers pass a Dolby Vision signal? I have grown rather "fond" of the Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos content on Netflix recently. My Pioneer Elite soundbar can pass a Dolby Vision signal and do Dolby Atmos. It was an odyssey just trying to find a product that would play "nicely" with my 2016 LG Oled TV.

Thanks for all your helpful comments today! BTW..I love the USC Trojans "Fight Song"! One of my "all-time" favorite songs to hear during college football games.
Unfortunately, these receivers cannot pass Dolby Vision. You will need a newer receiver to handle Dolby Vision correctly as these Pioneers only pass the HDR10 profile.
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post #8038 of 8053 Old 06-20-2019, 05:50 PM
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Unfortunately, these receivers cannot pass Dolby Vision. You will need a newer receiver to handle Dolby Vision correctly as these Pioneers only pass the HDR10 profile.
Thank you for your reply back! That is what I thought about these receivers. They can pass HDR10 but not Dolby Vision. Sadly, I am finding out that only one company makes an affordable range of AV receivers with multichannel inputs for my Lexicon MC-8 that plays "nicely" with my equipment. All roads keep leading me back to Marantz. Denon makes one receiver that has multichannel inputs; however, I would not classify the Denon AVR-X8500H as affordable. I do wish Denon had put multichannel inputs (7.1) into the next receiver down their product line (Denon AVR-X6500H). I could deal with something like that.

I was hoping that I could buy a used Pioneer SC-99 and use the receiver for a couple of years until I upgrade again. However; the Pioneer Elite SC-99 may still work for me. I have a Dolby Vision Sony UHD 4k player that has separate audio and video outputs on it. I could run the outputs from my Sony UBP-X700 into my TV and receiver and receive a Dolby Vision signal from Amazon and Netflix. I would not receive the Dolby Atmos signal from Netflix but I would receive higher bit output from Dolby Digital? I read something like that. Anyways, I think that the DSU is pretty good with a high-quality audio signal.

I could use my Apple TV 4k with the receiver. I would not get Dolby Vision but I should be able to receive the Dolby Digital Plus signal from Netflix? I can live with HDR10. I fondly remember back in the "good ole days" getting excited when the stereo signal on my old Sony XBR TV lit up red (indicating I was receiving a stereo signal). The "good ole days" of early 1990s Cablevision. HaHa.

One more question for you? How effective is the dialog enhancement function on this receiver? Do you find that it targets the midrange of vocal tracks? It talks in the owner's manual about flat and UP1 - Up4. Does that work like Dialogue Lift on a Yamaha receiver that relocates the sound to the center of the screen or does it change the level of Dialog Enhancement in the center channel? Sometimes these explanations in these owner's manual can be quite confusing.

Thanks for all your help!
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post #8039 of 8053 Old 06-21-2019, 09:21 AM
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Thank you for your reply back! That is what I thought about these receivers. They can pass HDR10 but not Dolby Vision. Sadly, I am finding out that only one company makes an affordable range of AV receivers with multichannel inputs for my Lexicon MC-8 that plays "nicely" with my equipment. All roads keep leading me back to Marantz. Denon makes one receiver that has multichannel inputs; however, I would not classify the Denon AVR-X8500H as affordable. I do wish Denon had put multichannel inputs (7.1) into the next receiver down their product line (Denon AVR-X6500H). I could deal with something like that.

I was hoping that I could buy a used Pioneer SC-99 and use the receiver for a couple of years until I upgrade again. However; the Pioneer Elite SC-99 may still work for me. I have a Dolby Vision Sony UHD 4k player that has separate audio and video outputs on it. I could run the outputs from my Sony UBP-X700 into my TV and receiver and receive a Dolby Vision signal from Amazon and Netflix. I would not receive the Dolby Atmos signal from Netflix but I would receive higher bit output from Dolby Digital? I read something like that. Anyways, I think that the DSU is pretty good with a high-quality audio signal.

I could use my Apple TV 4k with the receiver. I would not get Dolby Vision but I should be able to receive the Dolby Digital Plus signal from Netflix? I can live with HDR10. I fondly remember back in the "good ole days" getting excited when the stereo signal on my old Sony XBR TV lit up red (indicating I was receiving a stereo signal). The "good ole days" of early 1990s Cablevision. HaHa.

One more question for you? How effective is the dialog enhancement function on this receiver? Do you find that it targets the midrange of vocal tracks? It talks in the owner's manual about flat and UP1 - Up4. Does that work like Dialogue Lift on a Yamaha receiver that relocates the sound to the center of the screen or does it change the level of Dialog Enhancement in the center channel? Sometimes these explanations in these owner's manual can be quite confusing.

Thanks for all your help!
Honestly, if Dolby Vision from the ATV is important to you then I would consider another receiver. When the ATV is connected to a receiver or display that cannot handle Dolby Vision it internally converts the signal to HDR10. In this process some people complain that it does not look as good as even plain HDR10 depending on their display. In my case I am using a JVC RS400 projector that can accept an HDR signal and display it nicely but nearly as brightly and vividly as en emissive display like your OLED. HDR on projectors is getting better but still a compromise compared to your TV. Fortunately these receivers can still handle all of the relevant audio codecs including Atmos over DD plus so you would be good to go on the audio side.

I haven’t played too much with the dialog enhancement function. If it is the toggle between bass enhancement or dialog enhancement on the app then I actually use the bass enhancement more except for dialog driven dramas. It does not lift the sound in the same way that Yamaha does it just filters the audio to improve the midrange. Maybe someone else can comment more on this question for you.
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post #8040 of 8053 Old 06-23-2019, 03:54 PM
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Pioneer SC97 and SC95 Firmware Nightmare

Greetings,

I purchased both machines on the same day from Best Buy a couple years ago. It has been a while since I updated the firmware so thought I would check. Ran the software check via network connection on both machines and got an error message saying they could not find any updates. I went to the Pioneer website and found a new version 1-329-011-733-208 available for download which said (must be installed by USB).

I downloaded, unzipped and put the .BIN and .FW files on a USB drive. The SC97 and SC95 were both running firmware version 1-317-011-729-205 before trying the update. The options to download and try to install versions 1-324-011-733-206 and 1-329-011-733-206 were not available on the Pioneer site even though the firmware history doc shows they were available at one time.

I tried it on the SC95 first, and it worked perfectly and now shows 1-329-011-733-208 as the current firmware.

Then the nightmare began when I tried to install the same version on the SC97. It would stop at 60% with "ERROR 1" message. I researched and found many comments on this forum to power off and on and try again. Did that, same issue. I also saw suggestions to try different USB drives. Tried about six different USB drives, same error. I then found comments that it would need a factory reset and to try again, since the engineers probably only tested the new firmware against default setting. I did that too (multiple times), same error; "ERROR 1" at 60%.

After dozens of factory resets, hard resets, soft resets, different USB drives, re-downloading the files and unplugging overnight and trying again fresh, I realize my version is stuck at 1-317-011-***-205. Since that is not a true version the machine will let me try versions below that, so I have tried the following version updates: 1-289-011-722-203 (the first version I downloaded after purchase). Then tried 1-317-011-729-205 and 1-329-011-733-208 again and again and every time it stops at 60% with "ERROR 1".

I am afraid that my Pioneer SC97 has been "mothballed", "bricked" or whatever you want to call it by poor Pioneer/Onkyo engineers.

Does anyone have any experience getting past this issue?

Regards,

Jared

Pioneer SC-97|Integra ADM-20.4|Sony PS-HX500|OPPO UDP-205|Sony XBR85X900F|DirecTV HR44|AppleTV 4k|Sony PS4|Nintendo WiiU|Amazon Fire TV|Panamax M5400-PM|Harmony Elite|Dolby Atmos 7.2.4|Klipsch: 2 RP-280F, RP-450C, 2 R-115SW, 4 Quintet III, 4 CDT-5800-C II|12AWG|AudioQuest: Vodka HDMI, Golden Gate RCA, USB Noise Filter, Cinnamon USB to DAC

Last edited by jaredmmyers; 06-23-2019 at 07:24 PM.
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