The "OFFICIAL" 2016 Denon "S-Series" / "X-Series" AVR Owner's Thread + FAQ - Page 139 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4141 of 17157 Old 02-04-2017, 02:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cscoppa View Post
So the AVR-S920W showed up today, spent most of the day setting it up, calibrating and just exploring / testing. I have to say I'm REALLY impressed with how good it sounds. I was worried that it wouldn't be able to drive the B&W Matrix 803's but it's actually making them sound like I added a sub even though I run without one.

The only strange issue I'm having is Audyssey doesn't seem to "like" my right surround. Sometimes when it tests it, it repeats the test tone at a louder volume, and when I look at the final EQ curves, it's pushing the high frequencies up WAY higher than the left surround. I've tested and the tweeter is definitely healthy, and the position is similar on both sides. They are switchable bipole / dipole speakers, they are to the sides and slightly back, and I have them in dipole mode.
As Madmax67 suggested, try switching to "bipole." Also they should be placed about 2-3' above the main listening position aimed towards the front of the room and not down.
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post #4142 of 17157 Old 02-04-2017, 02:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by John Smith 6 View Post
Hello to all, and wish you a great evening.

Have a quick question; anybody has a S510BT and tried to connect an external equalizer to it?
Or anybody can direct me to the right direction?

Having trouble with mine.
Tried the "Pre Out-Subwoofer" rca, with no luck.

Thanks for looking.
The only pre-out on the S510BT is the sub pre-out so connecting the Sub Equalizer to this output is correct.
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post #4143 of 17157 Old 02-04-2017, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Ensure the mic is securely connected to the AVR and also check the mic cable line to ensure there are no breaks in the wire, otherwise, you can purchase another mic (ACM1HB) directly from Denon or on eBay for about $25.
The mic is securely connected. So you don't think it could be a problem with the AVR? Anyways, it seem's it's time to contact Denon because I have a 1 year warranty. Thanks.
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post #4144 of 17157 Old 02-04-2017, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
As Madmax67 suggested, try switching to "bipole." Also they should be placed about 2-3' above the main listening position aimed towards the front of the room and not down.

Thanks JD/Max, this is where one of them is located as seen directly from the MLP at ear level. Coming down about a foot right above the thermostat might get me close to what you're describing:




Because of that doorway positioning can be challenging. I can try lowering, switching to bipole and retesting and report back.

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post #4145 of 17157 Old 02-04-2017, 08:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cscoppa View Post
Thanks JD/Max, this is where one of them is located as seen directly from the MLP at ear level. Coming down about a foot right above the thermostat might get me close to what you're describing:




Because of that doorway positioning can be challenging. I can try lowering, switching to bipole and retesting and report back.
The speaker height should be just fine as is.
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post #4146 of 17157 Old 02-04-2017, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The speaker height should be just fine as is.
OK, I'll switch to bipole and retest when it's quiet.

Thanks again!

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post #4147 of 17157 Old 02-04-2017, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Ensure the mic is securely connected to the AVR and also check the mic cable line to ensure there are no breaks in the wire, otherwise, you can purchase another mic (ACM1HB) directly from Denon or on eBay for about $25.
This has happened to me on my Denon A-100. A new mic did fix the problem.

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post #4148 of 17157 Old 02-04-2017, 08:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by davehale View Post
This has happened to me on my Denon A-100. A new mic did fix the problem.
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post #4149 of 17157 Old 02-04-2017, 08:54 AM
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This has happened to me on my Denon A-100. A new mic did fix the problem.
It's OK if it's only the mic. Would be very annoying to send back the AVR. I ran the Audyssey with success the past week so I'm not in a hurry. Thx guys!
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post #4150 of 17157 Old 02-04-2017, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The only pre-out on the S510BT is the sub pre-out so connecting the Sub Equalizer to this output is correct.
Thank you for the reply JD.

Do you know what would be the best way to test my "Pre Out" w/o hooking up any subwoofer, so I know it is not the receiver that has the problem and "Pre Out" actually pushing out the signal?

With a multimeter maybe?
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post #4151 of 17157 Old 02-04-2017, 07:56 PM
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I switched my TV to Z1 and my projector to Z2 where I have a 5.1.4 setup on my 4300. These are both in the same room in spaces next to each other.

I have a question about audio playback:

When watching TV, the audio comes up on the speakers over in my movie area with the projector. Is there an easy way to control whether audio just plays through the TV speakers, or through 5.1.4 setup, or maybe even both?

For example, most of the time, I'll be watching TV using just the TV's speakers. Sometimes I may want to watch a game/movie on my projector and hear the sound on just the 5.1.4 setup. Other times (like tomorrow for the Super Bowl) maybe I want to have both the projector and TV on with sound playing out of both sets of speakers. Would love to be able to just select where the audio plays. If I have the AVR in pass through, it just comes out through the TV speakers, but when I turn on Z1, it plays on the speakers in the PJ room.
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post #4152 of 17157 Old 02-04-2017, 08:42 PM
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Zone 2 can't do 5.1.4 as its only a 2 channel zone. Your x4300 has 3 HDMI outputs, Monitor1, Montor2 and Zone 2. Which outputs are your TV and projector connected?

You might be describing this incorrectly.

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post #4153 of 17157 Old 02-04-2017, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afrogt View Post
Zone 2 can't do 5.1.4 as its only a 2 channel zone. Your x4300 has 3 HDMI outputs, Monitor1, Montor2 and Zone 2. Which outputs are your TV and projector connected?

You might be describing this incorrectly.
Yes, you are correct. I typed it in wrong. TV is connected to Monitor 1 and Projector with 5.1.4 setup is connected to Monitor 2.
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post #4154 of 17157 Old 02-05-2017, 01:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Fazzz View Post
I switched my TV to Z1 and my projector to Z2 where I have a 5.1.4 setup on my 4300. These are both in the same room in spaces next to each other.

I have a question about audio playback:

When watching TV, the audio comes up on the speakers over in my movie area with the projector. Is there an easy way to control whether audio just plays through the TV speakers, or through 5.1.4 setup, or maybe even both?

For example, most of the time, I'll be watching TV using just the TV's speakers. Sometimes I may want to watch a game/movie on my projector and hear the sound on just the 5.1.4 setup. Other times (like tomorrow for the Super Bowl) maybe I want to have both the projector and TV on with sound playing out of both sets of speakers. Would love to be able to just select where the audio plays. If I have the AVR in pass through, it just comes out through the TV speakers, but when I turn on Z1, it plays on the speakers in the PJ room.

You can also set the "HDMI Audio Out" setting to "TV" when you only want to use the TV speakers or to "Amp" when you want to use the surround speakers; however, audio cannot be sent to both at the same time.
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post #4155 of 17157 Old 02-05-2017, 01:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afrogt View Post
Zone 2 can't do 5.1.4 as its only a 2 channel zone. Your x4300 has 3 HDMI outputs, Monitor1, Montor2 and Zone 2. Which outputs are your TV and projector connected?

You might be describing this incorrectly.
To clarify, although the Zone 2 speaker posts/pre-outs are 2CH only, the Zone 2 HDMI output can pass whatever signal the Zone 2 HDMI sink can accept (eg. 5.1/7.1) such that if desired, the Zone 2 HDMI Out could be connected to another X4300H in another room which has it's own up to 7.1.4 setup.
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Some do ... some don't (mine doesn't). You can reduce the unit's temp by about 10F by setting the ECO mode to ON (which I do to reduce temp from 110F to 100F with no change in SPL); otherwise, ensure you have plenty of ventilation around the unit to include at least 3-4" clearance on top and the sides as well as ideally an open front and back. If your unit is running hot, you should consider adding a cooling fan (see below) to exhaust the hot air away from the unit as not doing so will reduce the life of the AVR.

http://www.acinfinity.com/component-...ystem-17-inch/
Thanks jdsmoothie. Using a Tissot T-Touch watch placed on top of AVR I've checked the temperature after running for a few hours: 39-40 degrees Celsius (or about 104F). Based on jdsmoothie's temperatures I take it this is normal. My 6300 is on bottom shelf of my rack ; open on all four sides and room above to have the wifi/BT antennas extended vertically.
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post #4157 of 17157 Old 02-05-2017, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
A green screen can mean a defective HDMI cable (although you say no issues with other sources) so try replacing the HDMI cable from the AVR --> TV.
Iam currently using Audioquest Pearl cables. I also tried a Monoprice certified cable prior to that with same results. Video from other source's work fine (dvd, tuner, cd ) while it is in this failed state.

This issue is reproducible and only occurs if I turn on "Network control in Standby" to ON. With this setting ON it works during the day but then the next morning (after being in standby overnight) it will be in a failed state again when turned on. Then I have to do a Network reset to fix the issue. If I leave the "Network control in Standby" off overnight it does NOT fail the next morning.

I have an open support issue with Denon but no has responded to it and only 5 more days to take it back for refund to Best Buy.

I have attached a pic of the starry screen that appears when its failed.

Thanks for your response and any further suggestions.

Tom
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post #4158 of 17157 Old 02-05-2017, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Fablog93 View Post
It's OK if it's only the mic. Would be very annoying to send back the AVR. I ran the Audyssey with success the past week so I'm not in a hurry. Thx guys!
A possibility is that a bit of crud (e.g. a flake from a plastic packing peanut) has gotten into the microphone socket on the receiver and is blocking the audio signal. (That's separate from the switch which detects that the mic is plugged in.) Try using some "canned air" to blow it out. Blowing into it yourself usually is not a good idea, since saliva is corrosive and might eventually cause a permanent failure.

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post #4159 of 17157 Old 02-05-2017, 08:03 AM
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Hello everyone just wanting some input if it's worth it for my to upgrade my 3808 to the new x4300. I also just purchased an Amazon Fire tv and a Sony x930 do. I'm also a going to be hooking up my record player.
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Originally Posted by School View Post
Hello everyone just wanting some input if it's worth it for my to upgrade my 3808 to the new x4300. I also just purchased an Amazon Fire tv and a Sony x930 do. I'm also a going to be hooking up my record player.
I just upgrade from my 3808 to the x4300. I don't really notice a difference between the two receivers sound wise. Obviously the x4300 has more HDMI inputs, but I think the real upgrade is support for Atmos. If you plan on adding height/ceiling speakers, I think it's worth an upgrade.
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post #4161 of 17157 Old 02-05-2017, 08:56 AM
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I have an Atmos question for owners. I just installed two ceiling speakers and tried a few Bluray movies. When I played Fury Road, "Dolby Atmos" appears on the receiver display. When I played Transformers AOE, it displayed normal "Dolby". I still get sound from the height channels, but I wasn't sure if the movie simply didn't pass the actual Atmos tag of if something else was happening. The Atmos audio track is selected by default in Transformers AOE.
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post #4162 of 17157 Old 02-05-2017, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by School View Post
Hello everyone just wanting some input if it's worth it for my to upgrade my 3808 to the new x4300. I also just purchased an Amazon Fire tv and a Sony x930 do. I'm also a going to be hooking up my record player.
I just upgraded from a 3808 to a 6300. Very happy. Improved Audyssey which does make a difference and to me it sounds better than the 3808 albeit the difference is not substantial. As well as extra codecs (Atmos and DTS:X) you also the video features (HDR, HDCP2.2, HDMI2.0a etc) and HEOS and built in wifi and Bluetooth. I think the only thing I've lost is HDCD coding.

Things missing are dolby vision (FW update later this year) and MQA decoding (but almost nobody does MQA).

I'm sure you won't regret the upgrade to either the 4300 or 6300.

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post #4163 of 17157 Old 02-05-2017, 11:46 AM
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The sub stuff always makes me bonkers. After running Audyssey my trim was at -6.5, which I manually increased to 0 and will hope for the best.
Try and go deeper into the negative region and see if you like it. You can always mark your gain position and rerun Audyssey to get back to -6.5.

Per Ed Mullen:

"Mark Seaton and Bill Fitzmaurice summed it up nicely. The subwoofer pre-out signal is easily the most content-heavy (redirected bass and the LFE channel) and therefore has the highest potential to be driven into clipping (easily observed on an o-scope). This is passed through to the subwoofers and creates audible clipping artifacts.

SVS always recommends setting the AVR sub-channel level well into the negative region (and raising the gain on the sub amps to compensate) in order to minimize the potential for clipping the pre-out signal. As Bill states, the slight reduction in S/N ratio this causes is not audible."

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...l#post50338193
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post #4164 of 17157 Old 02-05-2017, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Fablog93 View Post
It's OK if it's only the mic. Would be very annoying to send back the AVR. I ran the Audyssey with success the past week so I'm not in a hurry. Thx guys!
contact denon support with your s/n and bill of sale. they will most likely mail you a free mic
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post #4165 of 17157 Old 02-05-2017, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan in St. Louis View Post
Methinks I detect a misunderstanding of how a powered subwoofer works, and of the distinction between power amps and preamps.
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Originally Posted by zeus33 View Post
He's quoting a post from the Audyssey thread, but yeah, it is WAY off. I'm surprised that no one corrected the original poster in the Audyssey thread.
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🙋Sign me up for class if that's in any way an offer for it. I've read your signature😉. If not I understand I just like to learn about these types of things😁.
Yes, I was quoting the original poster.

If you guys think the original poster is incorrect in his statement/analysis, then would you guys be kind enough to go over there and correct him. This would benefit the entire community, especially for those who are new to this. The link to his post is in my signature.

Thanks.

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post #4166 of 17157 Old 02-05-2017, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post
A possibility is that a bit of crud (e.g. a flake from a plastic packing peanut) has gotten into the microphone socket on the receiver and is blocking the audio signal. (That's separate from the switch which detects that the mic is plugged in.) Try using some "canned air" to blow it out. Blowing into it yourself usually is not a good idea, since saliva is corrosive and might eventually cause a permanent failure.
I will try, thanks!
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post #4167 of 17157 Old 02-05-2017, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Methodical_1 View Post
Yes, I was quoting the original poster.

If you guys think the original poster is incorrect in his statement/analysis, then would you guys be kind enough to go over there and correct him. This would benefit the entire community, especially for those who are new to this. The link to his post is in my signature.

Thanks.
Not really my place as I'm just trying to be the student and not the teacher ( my late father was the navy electrician and tech writer in the telecommunications industry for 30+ years not me) but the original premise on which that post was linked should be the first thing corrected and that is that setting different gain structures up in a pre amp to reduce the chances of clipping at the receivers output doesn't improve the sound quality of content played. All are set to the same levels after running room correction and any perceived sounds differences are most likely due to the placebo effect and not any actual improvement in sound. Headroom is there for handling dynamic peaks in challenging content not audio improvement at normal listening levels. If I'm wrong I'm sure my new friend Dan will correct me soon enough.😰

By the way @Dan in St. Louis thanks again for that link you gave me earlier to read through. I'm this far into it so far:

Lessons In Electric Circuits -- Volume I
Chapter 4
SCIENTIFIC NOTATION AND METRIC PREFIXES

👍

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post #4168 of 17157 Old 02-05-2017, 01:48 PM
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I've recently upgraded to the 6300 and have added some martin Logan AE speakers. All seven of my original speakers are 8 ohms. The newly added martin Logans are 4 ohms.

What setting should I use on my AVR? Page 41 of the (online) manual seems to be saying if any of your speakers are 4ohm set AVR to 4 ohms?

Cheers
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post #4169 of 17157 Old 02-05-2017, 02:02 PM
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I've recently upgraded to the 6300 and have added some martin Logan AE speakers. All seven of my original speakers are 8 ohms. The newly added martin Logans are 4 ohms.

What setting should I use on my AVR? Page 41 of the (online) manual seems to be saying if any of your speakers are 4ohm set AVR to 4 ohms?

Cheers
blairy
Best to just leave it at the 8 ohms setting. The others are just there to get an Underwriters Laboratory rating and you'd just be choking off the power supply unnecessarily. Here's a good article explaining it further.

http://www.audioholics.com/audio-amp...ector-switch-1

Chane A5 towers,Chane A2.4 center,RBH bipole side surrounds, Rythmik LV12R x2,Denon X4300H, Outlaw 5000,Front B speakers: Wharfedale Diamond 10.1 books. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...d-part-ii.html

Last edited by Madmax67; 02-05-2017 at 02:05 PM.
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post #4170 of 17157 Old 02-05-2017, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Methodical_1 View Post
Yes, I was quoting the original poster.

If you guys think the original poster is incorrect in his statement/analysis, then would you guys be kind enough to go over there and correct him. This would benefit the entire community, especially for those who are new to this. The link to his post is in my signature.

Thanks.
M-1, I could spend all day correcting errors of fact and understanding in the several forums I visit every day.

The number of people who think a 100mbps Internet connection is fast is discouraging (100mbps is 0.1 bits/second). A number of new users here think that they need a 200 watt amplifier because that is what their speakers are rated at. They are afraid to connect to their receivers a speaker that dips to 4 ohms at some specific frequency. They think something is wrong with their receivers because they aren't as loud as an earlier one at a certain numeric volume setting.

In the photography forum there are subscribers who just know if they replaced their $1000 camera with a $2000 camera they would make better pictures. In the router forum new owners ask why their download speeds are slower on the 2.4GHz channels than on 5GHz. They are sure that if they could just raise their router transmitter power by 10% it would cover their whole house (that would be 0.4dB).

Sorry, I'm going to have to defer to the managers of those forums to illuminate the shadows. But feel free to hop over there yourself and help them out.

M = Mega, m = milli. K = Kelvin, k = kilo. B = Bytes, b = bits. G = Giga, g = gravity. Dan in Saint Louis
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