Seems to be a firmware issue since it just started happening with me after the last update. I notice it with my Apple TV and Dolby up-mixing for stereo sources. For now I’ve switched to dts:x.

denon x3300 owner



is there any other reason than heos to upgrade to the denon 3400?
its always enticing to upgrade but not sure

How do I get the older version?

http://firmware.denon.eu/index.php Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Unfortunately, firmware intended for European devices can't be used for U.S. devices.

https://usa.denon.com/us/downloads/productupdates

So, I'm assuming I got a recent update because now ARC no longer works for sound. I've tried playing around with all the HDMI settings to try and get it to work, and none do. It worked perfectly fine up until this update. I'm now running toslink but would like to go back to HDMI ARC if possible. Anyone else having this issue?


I can see on the product page on the link in the previous post that the latest update listed is from June. Is that the newest or is that the previous update? If it's the previous update, is it possible to "downgrade" to the previous update?


Model #AVR-S920W

Edited to remove quote and correct the model number!

X4300H model.

Couple of strange things happened last week. First, when watching Netflix via a Roku, I set my phone down and the receiver changed inputs to Bluetooth and started playing from my phone. I thought I must have hit the receiver's remote somehow, though I swear I did not touch it, and thought nothing of it. Until, that is, I could not get any sound output from my wired headphones last night when they were plugged in. While trying different settings, I went to Bluetooth and surprise - Bluetooth was connected to my phone and sound from wired headphones was clear normal. Go back to Media Player (or any other input) and again no sound from the headphones. Turned off Bluetooth on my phone, still no sound to headphones when any other input is selected.

Having Bluetooth be the only working input for headphones seems too coincidental with the sudden turn to Bluetooth as the input when the remote was not touched. I feel like something was messed up deep within a menu somewhere and I have no idea how to get sound to my wired headphones any more.

Looking for any and all advice!

Thanks,
HDD

I'm wondering if it's time to turn off auto-update. My AVR was running like a well oiled machine and this was the first receiver I've owned where ARC worked well. I would have skipped this one since I have no need for Airplay 2, as I own ZERO Apple products.

You can edit a post by simply selecting the EDIT button.

Also, this is the wrong thread as the X3400H is a 2017 model which is discussed in the 2017 Denon AVR Owner's thread.

You can delete a post by simply selecting the EDIT button and then the Delete radio button.

Does anybody know if it's possible to get FreeSync over HDMI working on the Denon AVR-X4300H?

I have a 4K monitor that supports FreeSync over HDMI 2.0 and it works perfect when plugged into my X-Box One. However, if I plug everything into the Denon, the X-Box doesn't detect the FreeSync support (EDID problem?) and so it won't allow me to enable it.

Can someone elaborate this for me?

I have a Denon X4300H. I want to be able to enjoy MQA from Tidal.
If I'm getting it right MQA is a bitstream just like Dolby or DTS.

The receiver need to receive is enveloped and will decode it, is that correct?

A PC is able to bitstream MQA?
I also have an OPPO 203 but if I get it right, also, only OPPO 205 is able to pass MQA.

So, is it possible to use MQA with the Denon X4300H and a PC?

Hey guys,

X3300 owner here.

I read a lot about the Zone 2 limitations, but still can't get my head around all the details.

I currently have the following setup:

PC hooked through a HDMI cable to a Denon X3300. Using foobar to play music. Zone 1 works just fine. The HDMI out goes to a Samsung KS7500 TV and video is also fine, but this is a detail which doesn't matter at the moment I guess.
From the Zone 2 RCA out of the X3300 I have hooked up a Schiit Magni 3 headphone amp. No sound plays at all.
Zone 2 is turned on, volume is up, same source is selected.
In the general Zone 2 setup I have setup the HDMI Audio to PCM, though I guess this doesn't matter (it is concerning only the Zone 2 HDMI out, right?).

I read that a lot of the AVRs are not capable of being fed a digital signal (HDMI / optical) and outputting an analog signal through the Zone 2 RCA out, but I got the impression the X3300 can actually do it.

I wanted to try the same setup with my PS4. Basically I want to have all my media connected to the AVR with HDMI cables, use the Zone 1 with speakers, but when it gets late at night switch to headphones, without handicapping them through the crappy headphone amp of the Denon.

If what I am trying is not possible at all, do I have any other options?
What if I buy a separate DAC, still have the video running through the AVR and to the TV (let's say the signal is a PS4), but use the optical out of the AVR and hook it up to the external DAC and then the headphone amp? Would this work? The audio this way would be digital input in the AVR and digital output. But will I be able to have my video signal on my TV and still use only the optical out for the audio?

I would greatly appreciate some help on this topic. @jdsmoothie , I was told you might be able to help on this topic.
I thought I had it figured out, but apparently not. Denon's documentation and information regarding the Zone 2 capabilities of their AVRs is almost non-existent.

There is a lot of very helpful information provided in the first 8 posts of this thread to include a section on Zone 2 in post 3 para 12.

I also had ARC stop working between my LG OLED and Denon 6300 receiver. I tried everything in the world to get it working again since there's no other way for me to get Atmos from Netflix. I ultimately turned off my entire system at the surge protector for 10 minutes and when I turned it back on, ARC worked just fine.

Removing power totally from everything seems to fix ARC/CEC problems in quite a few cases.

Until the next time it fails to work for some reason.

It's The Devil's Protocol.

so true.

With my X1300 it seems like functionality degrades over some months before it altogether stops working. I reset to factory and its fine again. I've had to do this twice since I got it for Christmas.

I have a S920W and I’m curious if anyone has run into this issue before.

Basically, I was several firmware versions behind, and after updating to the latest Dolby Surround isn’t working like it did before.

I no longer get any output from the center channel when it’s engaged, even if the source has a center channel track. I’d been using it to make sure I get a center channel output in games via Multi In and the odd DD 2.0 source.

I’m hesitant to troubleshoot much further before having a better sense whether or not this could be some kind of firmware bug or change.

Thanks for the help.
So if I understand correctly, my only option in this case is All Zone Stereo?

The funny thing is my situation got even more messed up today. (I did a firmware update, but I doubt that is the issue)
I have my PC connected to the AVR and when I turn Zone 2 ON, no sound at all comes out from either zone. All of my PC software shoots out different message and basically plays no sound at all. I guess I have setup something wrong, but after a lot of messing around I still have no clue what is happening.

I am aware that around here or in other forums there is probably a lot of info about Zone 2, but I am completely lost, especially now that I am losing all sound and even playback in windows software when Zone 2 is on. I could really use and would appreciate some help. I would be really happy if I can avoid buying a separate DAC and complicating all of my devices connections, just in order to use my headphone AMP.

On the X3300W, the source audio (ie. your PC) must be set to pass stereo PCM 2.0 in order to pass to Zone 2, otherwise, you have to select ALL ZONE STEREO but by doing so the main zone is also down mixed to stereo 2.0 as well.

There is a lot of very helpful information in posts 1-8 of this thread, to include the various resets in post 5.

I'm wondering what that makes HDCP.

The last firmware update didn't solve the bug related to the Zone 2 source selection. Zone 3 works fine.

From what I'm reading, the issues with HDCP have been pretty much eliminated on gear made in the last 3-5 years, with the exception of projectors, which seem to have ongoing HDCP problems. But then I've also found that projector manufacturers are the biggest liars about what they are selling. There are a number of brand name "4K" projectors out there which, when you read the fine print, are HD projectors that do all manner of pixel manipulating cheats to get to "4K". So I don't trust them at all. And because projectors are usually far from the source, the second most cited item is an active cable when HDCP problems are mentioned.

Although I'm only on a few forums here, every HDCP issue I've read about involves a projector, low quality cables, active cables, or else display devices with different capabilities being connected to dual HDMI outputs on an AVR; and with that type of setup, one device almost always seems to be a projector.

Having said that, I'm sure there are instances of everything being the right thing, and HDCP saying "I'm not showing you anything!"

Unfortunately no luck, did a soft reset and then reset the microprocessor/settings.

Then you need to try to get a copy of an older version of firmware (prior to the most recent one you loaded) and install it or else send it to a repair facility that can do it.

I'll give that a try this weekend. If not, then it's back to toslink. Unfortunately my LG is not OLED so I don't gat Atmos, so toslink will work, but I'd rather not have anymore extra wires.

It certainly is. And this was the first receiver I have ever owned where ARC worked as is should....until now.

I had a similar issue a few weeks ago that I'm still not fully sure what happened. In my case I was watching a movie from my 4K player, when the input switched to TV Audio. This happened about 3 times in a row. I finally disabled the TV Audio input, replaced the HDMI cord from the 4K to AVR, and increased cooling to the cabinet. I'm not sure which one was the actual culprit. The HDMI cord I think might have been damaged from heat, as the 4K player was sitting on top of the xbox1, which was running really hot. I switched up the layout (and added two more fans). In my case I think the hdmi cord signal cutout, and the AVR automatically switched to TV audio.

After doing this I still had the AVR switch from the Game input to the Media Player input once, which I have set to be the HDMI passthrough. I know the remote for the apple tv didn't get pushed, so I'm not sure if maybe the apple tv had a spurious output or the AVR was just going crazy....I'd be tempted to disable CEC but I love the ease of using the apple tv to startup the whole system.

To hit on the cooling aspect one last time, I also put a 4" AC Infinity fan directly on top of my reciever to boost airflow. While before it was hot to the touch, now the whole AVR is room temperature even after hours of intense use. I know they designed it to handle heat, but I'm starting to believe that a lot of HDMI cords aren't capable of surviving the 'natural' temperature a reciever gets to. Before boosting my airflow I had 4 amazon basics hdmi cords fail over 2 years (one failed after a month), and none since.

I am experiencing Tidal cuts every a couple of minutes starting today!
Unfortunatelly yesterday I disconnected the Ethernet cable .. I was thinking Wi Fi would be enough for Tidal.
After the first cuts I connected the Ethernet again but the issue remains!
****t!
Edit: Network reset in progress!!