2016 Denon AVR FAQ, Setup, and Troubleshooting Guide
- Note that although this information is geared towards the 2016 Denon models, in many cases (esp. Troubleshooting) it applies to older Denon and Marantz models as well.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. Audyssey MultEQ
.......... a. Audyssey Mic Not Included
.......... b. Audyssey Setup
.......... c. Sub Settings
2. AVR General Info
.......... a. Component --> HDMI Video Conversion
.......... b. GUI/Menu
.......... c. HDMI --> Component Video Conversion
.......... d. Master Volume Adjustment
.......... e. Microprocessor Reset
.......... f. Mute Icon
.......... g. Power OFF AVR
.......... h. Power Ratings
.......... i. Power Indicator Light when AVR in Standby
.......... j. Protection Mode
.......... k. Remote Control
.......... l. Settings - Memory Retention
.......... m. Setup Lock
3. Denon Website Info
.......... a. Owner's Manual
.......... a. 1080p/4K Video Upscaling
.......... b. X4300H - Extra Speaker Posts/Pre-outs
.......... c. Amp Assign - Bi-Amp
.......... d. ARC (Audio Return Channel)
.......... e. Bluetooth Adapter
.......... f. X series Models
.......... g. HDMI Audio Out
.......... h. HDMI Standby Pass Through
.......... i. SAVE/LOAD config settings
.......... j. Stream iPhone/DLNA server music to S510BT
.......... k. Watch TV while listening to a different audio source
5. Known Issues:
See "post #4
" of this thread.
.......... a. Bitstream vs. PCM
.......... b. HDMI Cable 1.4 vs. 2.0
.......... c. Keep the box
.......... d. Older AVR w/o HDMI jacks
.......... e. USA/CA vs. Europe/Asia Pacific Models
.......... f. Used/Demo/Open Box/Refurb
.......... a. Airplay
.......... b. Connecting to Home Network
.......... c. Firmware Updates
.......... d. Network Reset
.......... e. NET/USB
.......... f. Remote Control Smartphone Apps
8. Purchasing Info
.......... a. Best Buy/Magnolia
.......... b. On-line Dealers
.......... c. Warranty
9. Rear Panel Connections
.......... a. 12v Trigger
.......... b. IR Extender/Repeater Kit
.......... c. Switched Outlets
.......... d. Turntable/Phono
.......... a. Audyssey DSX Front Height / Front Wide
.......... b. Minimum number of speakers
.......... c. Speaker Recommendations
.......... d. Speaker/Sub Volume
.......... e. Speaker Wire
.......... f. Subwoofer - Best Location
.......... g. Subwoofer - Cable option
.......... h. Surround Speaker Placement/Connections
.......... i. Tower Speakers w/built in sub
.......... a. Airplay Icon not showing up
.......... b. "Airplay Speaker Not Available"
.......... c. AVR randomly changes to other sources
.......... d. AVR shuts down at higher volumes
.......... e. AVR switches to TV source when first turned ON
.......... f. Cannot see networked Denon on my WIN XP computer/laptop
.......... g. Center Channel dialog too weak watching TV
.......... h. "Connection failed. Check the device"
.......... i. Green screen on TV
.......... j. HD Channel (DD 5.1) in Stereo
.......... k. HDMI Handshake Issues (audio/video dropouts)
.......... l. HTPC won't pass audio/video
.......... m. Intermittent HDMI audio/video
.......... n. No audio from single speaker
.......... o. No Video on AVR front panel display
.......... p. Projector - no video displayed
.......... q. PS3/Blu Ray Player (BDP)/Game machine - No Video or Intermittent Video Issue
.......... r. Speaker volume change won't stick
.......... s. Sub not working
.......... t. Surround mode changes
.......... u. Unresolved Issues
.......... v. Volume drops randomly from AT&T U-verse box
.......... w. White sparkles on TV
.......... x. Why do my small speakers get set to LARGE?
.......... y. Why does front panel display read "Multi Ch In" and not DD/DTS/DD TrueHD/DTS HD MA/ATMOS/DTS:X?
.......... z. Why only "STEREO" or "Dolby Surround" and not DD TrueHD/DTS HD MA?
.......... z1. Wii only displays in 4:3 aspect
.......... z2. WIN 7/8/10 PC shows up as "Not Authorized"
.......... z3. WMP 11/12 audio files won't play from PC via wireless network
12. Zone 2
.......... a. 2-CH Amp
.......... b. Source Limitations
.......... c. Whole House Audio
.......... d. Wireless Headphones
1. Audyssey MultEQ
a. Audyssey Mic Not Included:
If you think Denon forgot to ship the Audyssey mic with your new AVR ... check again. The mic is located inside a small white box that may be embedded inside the styrofoam packaging itself
so check all around the styrofoam.
- All 2016 models (except the S510BT): These models ship with the Audyssey ACM1HB mic which is interchangeable with the Audyssey DM-A409 (2008-2011 Denon models) and Audyssey ACM1H (Onkyo/Marantz) mics. Note to there is a 90 day warranty on the mic, so if the mic appears to be defective, contact Denon Parts dept for a warranty replacement.
If the mic is indeed missing, you cannot use just any mic from another brand (other than Onkyo or Marantz) as the DM-A409/ACM1H/ACM1HB mics have been calibrated to work with the Denon AVRs. Contact Denon for a replacement or you can usually find one on eBay for about $25 (although don't purchase one from outside the USA as they may be knockoffs).
b. Audyssey Setup
: The Setup Wizard and Speakers - Audyssey Setup can be run at any time. Just because you only have the front main (FL/C/FR) speakers or even just a 2.0 stereo setup is no reason not to run Audyssey Setup. If you add more speakers, simply run it again. You'll also want to rerun it if you move the speakers or any furniture in the room. Regardless of how many actual seats are in your listening room and where they are physically located, ideally you will want to run all 6 (MultEQ) or 8 (MultEQ XT/XT32) positions
using the included "rocketship" cardboard mic stand or a camera tripod
or (boom mic stand
+ mic adapter
) within no more than a 2'-3' radius around the #1
mic position (ie. main listening position (MLP) or roughly ear height of the center of "your" head) in order to provide the most data points for the Audyssey filters. One of the reasons you likely bought a Denon AVR was for Audyssey, so take advantage of its capability by providing it with as much data as possible. The whole process shouldn't take more than 20 -30 minutes (depending on whether you have a 5 speaker setup or 11 speaker setup), although ensure it is completely quiet in the room (ie. no pets or kids running around, no A/C noises, no PJ noise). Also, the test tones can be quite loud (75db), so best not to do this at night (especially if living in an apartment) when others are sleeping.
The Audyssey mic cable length is 25'. If you have the AVR located in a closet or a longer distance from the main zone, you can buy a 25' extension cable like this
one; however, 50' from the AVR to the mic is the maximum length that Audyssey recommends to avoid any signal degradation.
Prior to running Audyssey Setup, you'll ideally want to have your front main speakers toed in towards the main listening position, the center speaker angled up/down (as appropriate) to aim towards the main listening position (ear height) and if using on-wall/in-ceiling speakers, aimed down towards the main listening position.
It doesn't matter what settings you have set prior to running Audyssey Setup as they will be ignored and any previous Audyssey settings will be written over each time Audyssey Setup is run. Simply follow the directions listed in the SETUP WIZARD or follow along in the Denon Owner's manual. Also note that some speakers are intentionally wired "out of phase" by the mfr so if you get a PHASE error and have confirmed the speaker is wired correctly (i.e. +/+ and -/-) then simply press SKIP and move on to the next speaker. Initially just run 3 mic positions with the sub volume/gain knob set to 10 o'clock and check to see what the Denon set the sub volume to ... if it's -12db (ie. this means the sub is too loud and the Denon has reached the maximum limit of -12db in attempting to lower it to the 75db calibration volume), you'll want to lower the volume knob on the sub (eg. to 9 o'clock) and run Audyssey Setup again for 3 mic positions. As long as it's < -10db (eg. -9db, -8db, -7db, etc.) you're good to go to complete the remaining 5 (MultEQ) or 7 (MultEQ XT/XT32) positions. There is no reason to get it as close to 0db as possible (unless the sub signal is not causing the sub to turn ON and in that case, get the trim closer to 0db so the AVR sends a stronger signal to the sub) as doing so simply allows more room to adjust the sub volume lower even more with the remote (which isn't what most will want to do, rather most will likely want to raise it a few db louder).
The AVR will generally set any speaker that is capable of playing a < 50hz frequency (regardless of what the mfr's spec is on paper) in your room to LARGE. Note this setting is NOT about the physical size of the speaker, rather simply whether it can play low frequencies (LARGE) or not (SMALL). However, after running Audyssey Setup, if you are using a sub, go into the Denon GUI and change ALL speakers to SMALL and raise any crossovers that were set below 80Hz up to either 60Hz or 80Hz (whichever you prefer). This not only transfers those lower frequencies to the sub (which is generally able to handle them better as it's got it's own amp) but also frees up some extra headroom for the AVR. Also note that there are 64x (MultEQ) and 8x (MultEQ XT) more Audyssey filters used for the sub then for the speakers so your setup will likely sound better by transferring more to the sub (note that XT32 employs the same number of filters for the speakers and sub). Feel free to adjust the sub or speaker volume level higher/lower using the Manual Setup - Test Tones menu to suit your preference as doing so will not affect the Audyssey filters. For better center channel dialog during TV viewing, make sure the center speaker is angled up/down (as required) towards ear height of your main listening position. If you have having low dialog issues with the cable/sat box, you can also set the Audyssey Dyn EQ Reference Level Offset setting to "10db." .
Note that in order to use Audyssey, as well as the Audyssey related features Dynamic EQ (increases bass and surround audio at lower volumes below 0db) or Dynamic Volume (tames loud commercials/explosions for late night viewing), you must run Audyssey Setup.
Generally most folks will want to use Dynamic EQ for all sources, all the time (as most everyone listens at below 0db), and use Dynamic VOL (MEDIUM) for TV and late night movie viewing only (when it's important to keep the loud explosions down due to sleeping kids, etc.), leaving it OFF for regular movie viewing when there's no need to be quiet.
c. Sub Settings:
Prior to running Audyssey Setup, the sub knobs should be set as shown below. Refer to your AVR Owner's manual section on "Setup Speakers (Audyssey Setup) - Setup subwoofer." For information on setting up dual subs, refer to the Audyssey Setup Guide para III
- Volume : “10 o'clock position” (manual recommends starting at 12 o'clock but the vast majority will end up lowering to closer to 10 o'clock)
- Crossover frequency : “Maximum/Highest Frequency” (eg. if 80hz-150hz, then set to 150hz) •
- Low pass filter : “Off” or maximum/highest frequency (eg. if 80hz-150hz, then set to 150hz) Note: This is not the same as the "LPF for LFE" setting on the AVR which should be left at it's factory default setting of 120hz •
- Standby mode : “Off” (ie. sub should be powered ON and not in AUTO) •
- Phase : 0
Once Audyssey Setup settings are saved and you are satisfied with the settings (ie. sub is not set to -12db), DO NOT make any further volume adjustments on the sub itself (other than possibly changing the power from "ON" to "AUTO")
, rather adjust the sub volume using the remote control, the GUI menu. Although the speaker "distances" will likely be spot on, the sub "distance" will likely be longer as it is actually a value that allows for a delay due to filters in the sub so do NOT manually change the sub distance to its actual distance.
- Although there is a note in the manual that specifies "After performing Audyssey Setup, do not change the speaker settings or subwoofer volume. In event of a change perform Audyssey Setup again.", this really should say "if adding additional speakers or changing the location/orientation of the speakers/sub" as neither changing the speaker settings or subwoofer volume will require you to rerun Audyssey again.
For more questions about Audyssey, refer to the Audyssey 101/FAQ Guide
or go to Ask Audyssey
2. AVR General Info
a. Component --> HDMI Video Conversion:
This feature is no longer available on the lower level models below the X3300W to include the "S" series models. Another alternate option is to use a component --> HDMI converter or if you have a Wii you can use the Wii2HDMI
b. GUI/Menu display
All models can ONLY display the GUI/status menu over an HDMI connection to your TV
. Although much of the information can be read on the front panel display, some setup information is NOT displayed so you are much better served reviewing the GUI setup on the TV. To display the GUI, simply press the appropriate menu button on the remote (ie. INFO, OPTION, or SETUP). If you only use a projector with no HDTV, you may want to consider purchasing a small 12" HDMI display for setup use only.
c. HDMI --> Component Video Conversion
: If you have an older non-HDMI TV, note that there is no HDMI--> Component video conversion by any current AVR on the market. Either you must use the 2016 (S920W, X2300W and higher), which have (2) component video inputs AND (1) output, or you can use an external 3rd party device that can do the conversion.
d. Master Volume Adjustment
: Unlike perhaps your older receiver that was really loud at say 1/4 of the maximum master volume scale, Denon AVRs use a logarithmic volume scale and will require the volume turned to roughly 2/3 of the maximum for average volume levels. Denon AVRs have two volume scales, the default being "absolute" (0-98) and "relative" ( -79.5db to +18db). If you have run Audyssey Setup, then average volume for most folks with 8 ohm speakers and at least 87db+ efficiency, will be around -40db to -30db (41-51 absolute) for TV listening and -30db to -10db (51-71 absolute) for movie/music listening. Each model has a "Volume Limit" setting that defaults to OFF although can be set to 60(-20db), 70 (-10db), or 80 (0db). Setting this to 70 (-10db) is a good idea to ensure that others in the house cannot raise the master volume too loud which might cause the AVR to shut down in protection mode or clip the speakers. Also, to ensure the AVR doesn't shut down in protection mode, it's a good idea to not raise the volume above 80(0db) (little additional volume gained at the price of an extreme increase in power required). Also note that when adjusting the volume using the remote, it's better to tap the volume up/down buttons as pressing and holding it down for several seconds results in a HUGE change in volume. This is common to ALL stock Denon remotes.
e. Microprocessor Reset
: See post 5 of this thread.
f. MUTE Icon
: There is currently no way to remove the MUTE icon from the TV display when in the MUTE mode. To prevent the relays from clicking when pressing MUTE, change the “Mute Level” setting from “FULL” to “-40db.
g. Power OFF AVR:
The only way to turn the AVR completely OFF is to unplug it, otherwise it is either ON or in Standby. Each model will use anywhere from roughly 65W-85W when ON (no audio playing) to 80W-100W at reference volume (0db) using 8ohm speakers of at least average sensitivity (ie 87db+). In Standby they will use 0.1W with HDMI Control OFF, 0.5W with HDMI Control ON, and about 2.7W with IP Control set to ON.
h. Power Ratings:
For marketing purposes, Denon generally uses 6 ohm ratings (ie. gives a higher wattage rating) on the lower level AVRs which is why you will find them advertised (eg. Best Buy) at higher power ratings than listed in their Owner manuals or in these info posts both of which use the 8 ohm rating. Remember to read the fine print when checking the power ratings of an AVR. Also note that the difference in power ratings between these models is moot as going from the 75W (S720W) to the 125W (X4300H) will result in less than a 3db increase in volume .... 3db being the lowest amount of volume that can generally be detected by most people. For this reason, if you truly want additional volume capability, you are better served adding an external amp of at least 200W+ (although this can only be done with the 2016 (X3300W/X4300H/X6300H) models as they are the only models with main zone pre-outs to connect to an external amp) or simply buying speakers that are at least 3db more efficient (eg. from 86db to 89db efficiency/sensitivity rating).
i. Power Indicator Light when AVR in Standby
: When either "HDMI Control" or "HDMI Pass Through" are set to ON or "Network Control” is set to ALWAYS ON, the power indicator light above the power button on the AVR's front panel will change to solid "red" when placed in Standby mode.
j. Protection Mode:
If the AVR shuts off in protection mode and the power indicator light flashes red
, it generally means the following based on the frequency of flashes:
- Every 1/2 sec = speaker wire from one post touching another post (most common); driving 4 ohm speakers too loud (ie. >-10db); or amp failure
- Every 2 sec = temperature of the AVR is too hot (provide more ventilation)
The most common cause for shutting down, is a loose speaker wire strand touching another post. A great way to shore up loose speaker wire strands is to use banana plugs
on those models that accept banana plugs (ie. "X" series). Visually check the speaker connections at both the AVR and the speakers themselves to guarantee that speaker wire from one post isn't touching another post. Pull the AVR out of the rack or cabinet if you have to in order to ensure this is the case. If you have in wall speaker wire, it's very possible a nail may have split the speaker wire casing causing it to short. If you have confirmed there are no speaker wire issues and are not running 4 ohm speakers excessively loud, then disconnect all sources and add one at a time to see if the issue is being caused by a particular source. If not, then disconnect all the speakers and add one speaker back at a time to see if the issue is caused by a particular speaker. If not and you are using a power strip, try connecting directly to the outlet as you may have a bad power strip. If still no joy, then try resetting the microprocessor as a last resort. If still no joy, you're likely looking at having to send the unit in for repair as it could be amp failure.
k. Remote Control
: The Denon 2016 stock remotes (except X4300H/X6300H) cannot operate other 3rd party devices. If you want to boost your Wife Acceptance Factor (WAF), your best bet is to purchase a Harmony (or other universal/programmable) remote which can be used for not only most every function on the Denon stock remote but also to control your other devices as well. Simply download the remote codes for your particular Denon AVR model (and other devices) from the Logitech data base. Numerous Harmony models from $50 on up are available.
l. Settings - Memory Retention
: All settings in the AVR to include the Audyssey settings should be retained for at least 1-2 weeks if the power cable is disconnected from the AVR. In a few instances, it has been reported by a few forum members that if the power is interrupted (eg. power outage) while the AVR is powered ON, the settings "may" return to their factory default settings.
m. Setup Lock
: When you have small kids in the house, it may be a good idea to consider setting the "Setup Lock" feature to ON. This setting defaults to OFF from the factory. Also, with cats around, check for loose cable connections at the rear panel if you suddenly start having connection issues.
3. Denon Website Info
a. Owner's Manual
: Denon no longer provides a hard copy Owner's manual; however, a .pdf file can be downloaded from Denon's website here
a. 1080p/4K Video Upscaling:
b. X4300H extra speaker posts:
- 2016 models (S510BT, S720W, X1300W): These models can only pass through up to 4K/60fps video.
- 2016 models (S920W, X2300W): These models can pass through up to 4K/60fps video and upscale up to 4K/30fps video.
- 2016 models (X3300W, X4300H/X6300H): These models can pass through and upscale up to 4K/60fps video.
Although the X4300H features 11 sets of speaker posts, it can only provide 9CH of on board audio at a time ... the extra speaker posts are merely provided for convenience so as not to have to rewire for other configurations. This model can expand from 9CH to 11CH audio in the main zone by using an external 2CH amp connected to either the FL/FR or HT2 L/R speaker pre-outs.
c. Amp Assign - Bi-Amp:
Using this mode (known as "passive bi-amping") generally produces no noticeable improvement in either audio quality nor extra power
as you're simply sending the same full range signal to each set of posts on the bi-ampable speaker (which they would still get with a single connection) from the same single power supply in the AVR. If you want extra power for the speakers (which in most cases is not necessary for 8ohm speakers with an 86db+ efficiency in small/med sized rooms), the only USA models that will allow for an external amp connection are the X3300W/X4300H/X6300H all of which have at least 7.2 main zone pre-outs.
d. ARC (Audio Return Channel):
This is the feature that will pass audio from the TV (eg. OTA, Netflix, Hulu, Vudu, etc.) back to the AVR over the same HDMI cable that connects the AVR from the Monitor Out jack to the TV. In order for the ARC feature to work, it must be offered on both
the TV and the AVR. Just because the TV and AVR are HDMI 1.4 or higher DOES NOT mean they offer the ARC feature. Note the S510BT does NOT offer ARC and therefore ARC will not work when connected to a TV with ARC.
In order to use the TV's ARC feature you must set the TV's "HDMI-CEC" setting (LG - SimpLink; Phillips - EasyLink; Panasonic - VieraLink; Sony - BraviaSync; Samsung - Anynet+; Toshiba - CE-Link,RegzaLink) to ON as well as setting the AVR's "HDMI Control" setting to ON as the factory default is OFF. Some TV's also require the audio to be set to external speakers (eg. Samsung - set to Home Theater). Also make sure the HDMI cable from the AVR is plugged into the ARC labeled jack on the TV (eg. HDMI1 - Panasonic, HDMI2 - Samsung, Panasonic). Once these settings are made, turn all devices OFF for a few minutes and then ON again ... TV first and then the AVR (although if that order doesn't work, try AVR first and then TV). Note that a side effect when using the TV's HDMI-CEC/ARC set to ON is that the AVR will always shift to the "TV Audio" source input when first turned ON
rather than going to the last input that was on prior to the AVR being put into Standby (as is the case when ARC is OFF). First introduced on the 2014 models, there is a new "TV Audio Switching" setting which defaults to ON, but can be set to OFF in order to prevent the AVR from automatically switching to the "TV Audio" source. Also on the 2016 (and newer) models is an "ARC" setting which defaults to OFF but should be set to ON when in use. With this new setting, HDMI Control no longer must be set on the AVR rather only on the TV. If you are unable to get the ARC to work, try replacing the HDMI cable from the AVR --> TV with a newer cable as doing so will often resolve the issue.
Note also that with some TVs (eg.. Samsung) the AVR will also revert to the TV input while in Standby which will prevent you from using the HDMI pass through feature (eg. cable/sat box) without turning the HDMI-CEC setting on the TV to OFF. If this is too annoying, either turn off the HDMI-CEC/ARC setting on the TV when not using it or forgo the ARC feature (set HDMI-CEC/ARC to OFF) and use an optical cable from the TV to the AVR. The optical cable will pass the same audio (PCM 2.0 or DD 5.1) that the HDMI cable would have passed with no loss in audio quality. If you have the cable/sat box connected directly to the TV (eg. due to an HDMI handshake issue), check your TV owner's manual to see if the TV will pass DD 5.1 from connected sources when using the ARC connection (as some down mix to stereo only). If not, then connect an optical cable from the sat/cable box to the AVR instead if it passes DD 5.1 over the optical audio out.
e. Bluetooth Adapter::
All 2016 models include built-in Bluetooth capability so a 3rd party adapter is not required. Note this capability is for streaming Bluetooth audio "to" the AVR. To stream "from" the AVR will require purchasing a 3rd party Bluetooth transmitter.
f. X series Models:
The "X" series models include such features as remote control jacks (used with IR extenders/repeaters), RS-232 jack for remote access (eg. home automation systems like Crestron), and maintenance mode (pro installer or service tech only). The "X" series models also offer a 3 year warranty (vice 2 years for the S series models).
g. HDMI Audio Out:
This feature only works with devices connected to the AVR with an HDMI cable. It's an "either/or" setting in that the audio can be set to pass to the "AVR" or the "TV", but not both at the same time.
h. HDMI Standby Pass Through:
This feature allows you to pass HDMI connected sources only
through the AVR (when in Standby) to the TV. On the 2016 models, HDMI Control does not need to be set to ON as there is an "HDMI Pass Through" setting which defaults to ON with the "Pass Through Source" defaulting to CBL/SAT so connect an HDMI source to the CBL/SAT input should pas through without making any further changes. If you decide to change the Standby source to either LAST (source used) or another HDMI source, once making these change, turn the AVR and TV off for a few minutes, then power both back on, the TV first, then the AVR. If this feature is not working for you, try setting the HDMI-CEC/ARC setting on your TV to OFF.
i. SAVE/LOAD config settings:
The 2016 (S920W, X1300W, X2300W, X3300W) come with the feature to SAVE/LOAD the config/settings file (includes Audyssey settings) to a PC using the on board Web Control feature via the AVR's OSD. Note: Although this feature is not offered on the S720W; both the Web Control and the SAVE/LOAD features can still be accessed using the procedure noted below
. If you are having difficulty SAVE(ing) a file, make sure to stop any network playback by first playing something on the network and then either pressing the Stop Playback (black square) or the ENTER button on the remote for a few seconds
. You may also need to set "Network Standby" to OFF (contrary to what the Owner's manual indicates). The config.dat file should be about 348kb for all models except the X4300H/X6300H (952kb); however, it's a good idea to confirm the AVR is actually saving data in the file as the file size will be 348kb or 952kdb whether it's all zeroes or filled with zeroes and some data. If it is all zeroes, it will not LOAD successfully. Use a Windows hex viewer (eg. http://download.cnet.com/HxD-Hex-Edi...-10891068.html
) or Mac hex viewer (eg. http://hexedit.en.softonic.com/mac
) to view the file and confirm whether it is all zeroes or not. If you do get a file with all zeroes or if a file with data won't load properly, then set Network Standby to OFF/Off in Standby, cycle the AVR OFF/ON and then try a SAVE again which should result in a config.dat file with non-zero data. It's also a good idea to SAVE the settings prior to a firmware update even though firmware updates generally don't change the system settings. If you are having difficulty using IE, try using Firefox or Chrome (see Post #2775 of the 2013 Denon AVR thread
). If still no joy when trying to LOAD the config.dat file, try setting IP Control to "Off in Standby", cycle the AVR to OFF, then ON again and try the LOAD. If yet still no joy, try resetting the microprocessor and then do the LOAD again.
How to gain access to the Web Control and SAVE/LOAD features using the S720W
Enter the AVR's IP address (eg. 192.168.XXX.XX) in the web browser of a laptop. If the Web Control menu does not display, enter the following additional information after the IP address. Using the previous example IP address ....
Note: Although the Web Control feature is no longer provided on the X4300H and X6300H, a firmware update later in 2016 will provide the capability to SAVE the config file to a USB thumb drive and then LOAD it back from the thumb drive.
j. Stream iPhone/DLNA music to non-network models (ie. S510BT):
If you have a PS3, xbox360, or laptop that is connected to your home network as well as hard wired to your AVR, you can use the AirMusic iPhone app
to stream audio to these devices and play it through your surround setup. There are also several other devices that can be used to include Apple TV, Airport Express, as well as converting the audio to a FM frequency and playing it via the built in TUNER.
k. Watch TV while listening to a different audio source:
You have a couple of different options here. One option is to connect the cable/sat box HDMI directly to the TV w/optical from the cable/sat box to the AVR. That way you can use the HDMI to the TV for video and then select whatever audio source you want on the AVR. Another option is with any video source (to include HDMI) can be selected while listening to USB, Tuner, or network sources using the "OPTION - Video Select" setting. On the models with a CD analog audio input (ie. S920W, X2300W, X3300W, X4300H, X6300H) you can connect an external source to the CD analog or optical input (as long as there is no video assigned to CD) and listen to it while watching a separate HDMI video source. The X4300H and X6300H also add the PHONO input which can be used with "Video Select" as well.
a. Bitstream vs. PCM:
When playing audio from a BD/DVD, you can set the Blu Ray player (BDP) to either "bitstream" or "PCM/Direct". By setting it to "PCM/Direct" the BDP will decode (or unzip) the file which will then pass the audio in its original uncompressed format (ie. multi-channel PCM) to the AVR which will then display "MULT CH IN" on the front panel, or you can "bitstream" the audio and just let the BDP pass the compressed file directly to the AVR to let the AVR decode (or unzip) it in which case you will see the compressed file codec used (eg. DD, DTS, Dolby TrueHD, DTS HD MA, etc.) on the front panel display. Either way the audio quality will be the same
, although the bitstreamed audio will likely sound a bit louder, and most prefer to see the compressed file codec on their AVR's front panel display rather than just "MULT CH IN". When bitstreaming the audio, ensure the "Secondary audio" or "Audio Mix" setting (if there is one) on the BDP is set to OFF. Also note that HD audio tracks can be either 5.1 or 7.1; regardless, it will be downmixed to however many speakers are in your setup.
Note: When playing an Atmos/DTS:X Blu Ray, you must have the BDP set to "bitstream" with the Secondary Audio/Mix set to OFF.
b. HDMI Cable 1.3 vs. 1.4 vs. 2.0:
When passing 1080p video, there is no difference between a "High Speed" HDMI 1.3 or 1.4 cable and a "High Speed" HDMI 2.0 cable. If it is an HDMI 1.3 or HDMI 1.4 cable and can pass 1080p video, you don't need to buy new cables because you upgraded to a new HDMI 2.0 AVR. For cable and switch needs consider forum sponsors Monoprice
and Blue Jeans Cable
where good quality "High Speed" 6' HDMI cables can be had for about $5 each. There's no reason to get ripped off buying overpriced Monster cables at Best Buy. There's also no reason to pay more for an HDMI cable w/Ethernet as none of the current models can take advantage of the Ethernet feature in this cable
. However, if you are passing a 4k/HDCP 2.2 video signal thru the AVR, you will need to use the newer "Premium" certified 4k/18gbps HDMI cables.
c. Keep the box:
The original Denon box the AVR comes in should be kept for the life of the AVR as it will be needed if the AVR has to be returned to the vendor you purchased it from or if it needs to be shipped to a repair facility for repair.
d. Older AVR w/o HDMI jacks::
If you have an older generation AVR that lacks HDMI jacks and the only reason you want to upgrade to an HDMI AVR is to get the new HD codecs (DD TrueHD and DTS HD MA), then unless you want to spend more money, keep your old AVR as the lossy DD/DTS tracks on BD's are created at a higher bitrate (~640kbps vs. 430kbps) on a regular DVD. Many will be unable to discern any audio difference between these tracks and the HD audio tracks via HDMI.
e. USA/CA vs. Europe/Asia Pacific Models:
Although the USA/CA and Europe/Asia Pacific models are very similar, there are some noted differences to include: (1) The USA/CA X1300 features Zone 2 pre-outs whereas the Europe/Asia Pacific X1300 does not, and (2) None of the "S" series are offered in Europe/Asia Pacific, rather they are replaced by the X520BT instead, (3) The USA/CA X1300W and X2300W feature (1) Coax-digital and (1) RS-232 jack not found on the Europe/Asia Pacific models. Also note there is a 2 digit code on the OEM shipping box with the model number that identifies the region of the AVR (eg. X2300W E3): EU or E3 = USA, EC = Canada, E1 = Asia, E2 = Europe, and EA = Australia.
f. Used/Demo/Open Box/Refurb:
When purchasing an other than new in box unit (ie. demo/used/refurb), you'll want to reset the microprocessor (see post 5 of this thread) before starting the setup process which will ensure all settings are returned to their original factory defaults.
The Airplay feature (audio only) is offered on the S720W and higher networking models. It allows you to stream your iTunes songs wirelessly from your laptop, iPhone 3GS or newer (will not work with iPhone 3G
), or iPad to one of the above models when both are connected to your home network. This feature can also be replicated on non-networking model by using an Apple TV (audio and video) or Airport Express (audio) connected to the AVR. Also note that Apple currently has only licensed AVR mfr's to use Airplay in "audio only" mode (ie. no video). If you want to pass video, you'll to need to add the Apple TV (ATV).
A "wired" connection from the AVR to the router/modem is preferred to reduce connection issues and reduce audio dropouts due to buffering (eg. AVR front panel display reads “Buffering 60%). If you don't want a networking model, adding an Apple TV will give you Airplay, although there are noted issues with the ATV having audio dropouts regardless of the brand of AVR connection. Some have noted that turning off bluetooth and closing background applications on your iphone, ipad, etc. will reduce/eliminate the Airplay audio dropouts.
Also, if having connectivity issues, try unplugging the AVR for a few minutes and then power on again.
Notes: (1) When using Airplay, the source controls the initial volume
so make sure it is turned down on your laptop, iPhone, iPad, etc. before starting to stream the audio through your surround speakers. (2) If you want to turn the AVR ON to use Airplay, make sure NETWORK CONTROL is set to ALWAYS ON (default setting), and download one of the REMOTE apps listed in para 7(f) below. (3) In order to use Airplay with an Android phone, you can use the doubleTwist app (free)
along with the doubleTwist add on MagicPlay app ($2.99)
. (4) When selecting Airplay to play to Zone 2, the main zone will initially be hijacked and play the same Airplay source selected for Zone 2, although once playing in Zone 2, you can reselect the source that was playing in the main zone. Note that although with the older 2012 (XX13) models you cannot turn the main zone off while Airplay is playing to Zone 2; this is no longer the case with the 2013 and newer models.
b. Connecting to a home network:
All of the 2016 models (except the S510BT) feature a "wireless" capability. Note that when doing a firmware update, a "wired" connection is recommended as it is generally more reliable.
A couple of alternative connections are: (1) Powerline adapters
that plug into nearby outlets that can then connect to your wireless router/modem which effectively turns your house wiring into a "wired" network, or (2) Ethernet over coax MoCA adapters
which use your existing coax cable used for your TV.
If you don't plan on using the network capability for other than firmware updates, 100' Cat 5/6 ethernet cables are fairly inexpensive and available from forum sponsor Monoprice.
You can also purchase 1000' Cat 5/6 bulk cable if longer length is required; however, note the maximum length without signal amplification is 100m or roughly 300'.
If you are experiencing intermittent audio dropouts while using the network streaming feature, consider connecting the AVR directly to the router rather than a wireless connection or consider upgrading to a newer, better quality router that is able to handle more bandwidth. Additionally, if you have a NETGEAR router which is causing problems, try disabling the UPnP mode. Also make sure that the router's SSID is not "hidden", nor should it have a blank (" ") in its’ name. If you are using a XFinity cable/modem, try setting it to "bridge" mode.
c. Firmware Updates:
See post #6
of this thread.
d. Network Reset:
See post #5
of this thread.
When finished using the NET/USB input source, it's important to back all the way out of the menus otherwise the connection will remain open.
f. Remote Control Smartphone apps:
The 2016 Denon REMOTE app is a FREE app that can be downloaded from the iTunes website here
and used by an iPhone, iPod touch or iPad to control the networking models from anywhere in the house (where wireless internet is available). For the more experienced iPhone/iPad remote users, you may want to try the iPhone GUI Design application, Demopad
. The 2016 Denon REMOTE app for Android phones is also FREE and can be downloaded here
. Android phone users can also download AVR-Remote
free as well which works on both Denon and Marantz AVRs.
A couple of other similar apps (fee required), DenONOFF
can also be used on prior year models going back to XX08. Or if having audio/drop out issues using Airplay, consider using the 2Player android app
. Make sure the Network Standby setting is set to ON in order to turn the AVR ON from Standby. If the remote app should suddenly stop working, try powering off the AVR and unplug it for a few minutes.
8. Purchasing Info
a. Best Buy/Magnolia:
Best Buy is Denon's largest customer so you can generally find the full line of Denon AVRs at their stores, although specific models will be limited depending on whether there is a Magnolia/Design Center in the store or not. Best Buy stores with no Magnolia/Design Center will generally only sell the lower level models (ie. "S" series) while those with a Magnolia/Design Center will sell the "X" series models. Do you have Best Buy gift cards but would prefer to buy at one of the on line authorized resellers that offer a discount? There are several web sites that will buy your gift cards at roughly 90% of face value including CardCash
. Although you will generally always pay full MSRP when purchasing the current year models at a Best Buy/Magnolia with a 10% discount for open box/demo units, the benefit of purchasing here is there is no restocking fee if returned within 15 days (longer if Rewards Member), regardless of whether it's defective or not, whereas the on-line authorized resellers that provide a discount will normally charge a 15-20% restocking fee plus require you to pay return shipping. Also note that Best Buy has some great deals when clearing out previous year's models so be sure to visit the store before considering a current year's model.
b. On-line Dealers:
AVScience (877-823-4452) is an authorized Denon dealer, but is listed on Denon's store front authorized dealer webpage (as opposed to the on line dealer webpage).
In order for the Denon warranty to be valid, the AVR must be purchased from an authorized dealer
, either on-line
or B&M store
. Although Amazon is an authorized reseller, that is only if they are the "seller" so check where it says "Ships from and sold by XXXX" to ensure the XXXX company is either Amazon or another Denon authorized reseller. Unless they are listed on Denon's website as an authorized reseller, the warranty may not be valid (ie. some vendors are not listed on the website but purchase from authorized resellers and therefore the warranty is still valid so call Denon if in doubt). If purchasing from an unauthorized reseller, you may want to purchase a 3rd party "Date of Purchase" warranty which is often times offered by the unauthorized vendors. In some cases the reseller will offer their own in house warranty.
Warranty period (when purchased from an authorized reseller)
- New or demo or "open box": "S" Series - 2 years ; "X" series - 3 years
- Refurbished (any model) – 1 year (note that Amazon Warehouse deals of "used" models is not considered an authorized dealer, so Denon will not honor the warranty)
(a) Denon has been known to extend the warranty period up to 45 days beyond normal expiration, so check with Denon first.
(b) If your unit requires service and the service center cannot repair/return it within 30 days, the repair facility "should" offer a refurbished unit if available. If you accept the refurbished unit, rather than wait, your warranty on the refurbished unit would be the time remaining from the original new unit purchase.
(c) Buying refurbished units can be a good way to save some money, although receiving a defective "refurbished" unit is not uncommon. There's also no guarantee that the refurbished unit will have any updated firmware installed.
(d) "Open box" deals from an authorized dealer will generally come with a full mfr's warranty (although note that Amazon Warehouse deals are not warrantied by Denon at all). In general these can be great deals as often times the previous buyer simply didn't understand how to set up the AVR (and obviously didn't know about AVS forum) and so there's often nothing wrong with the AVR. Check to make sure you have all the included accessories, although if the mic is missing, you can generally buy one off of eBay (ACM1HB - US distributors only) or from Denon directly for about $25.
(e) Some credit card issuers will add an additional year to the mfr's warranty (new or refurbished), so before you give up on your old AVR, or consider adding to the Denon warranty with a 3rd party warranty (eg. SquareTrade), if you purchased with a credit card, check to see if they offer a free Extended Warranty benefit.
9. Rear Panel Connections
a. 12v Trigger:
When connecting a trigger jack to an external device that also has a trigger jack, first ensure both devices are powered OFF. Then use a 1/8" to 1/8" Mono
cable like this
one to connect the AVR to the device you want to trigger (eg. external amp, projection screen, lights, etc.). Although triggers are more sophisticated than switched outlets, the simple ON/OFF feature of a trigger can be replicated using a smart power strip
(although note this particular model doesn't work with all AVRs) rather than getting the X3200W (1 trigger) or X4200W/X6200W (2 triggers). If you are using an external amp that goes to Standby when powered back on (eg. Emotiva), consider using this trigger switch
from Emotiva along with the smart power strip.
b. IR Extender/Repeater Kit:
An IR extender/repeater kit can be used to extend the IR signal of the Denon remote when the AVR is located in a closet or other room. There are numerous 3rd party kits on the market
which will include a powered "blaster" and a receiver, although not all may work with your model so before buying, ask the reseller if it's been tested with your model. The powered "blaster" will have either a single or multiple wired emitters connected to it (generally with no more than 6' wire) that are placed over the IR sensor on the front panel of each device you want to control and as such, can be used with ANY Denon AVR model
. The receiver is then placed in the room in which you will be using the remote control. Some kits cannot be used in close proximity to a LCD or plasma TV and others have limited range so be sure to read the fine print before buying one of these kits.
On Denon AVRs the IR sensor is located about 1/3 from the left side of the front panel display (see picture in your Owner's manual). The "X" series models include a Remote Control IR IN jack which can provide a cleaner connection in the rear panel of the AVR rather than having to place an emitter over the IR sensor on the front panel display. If you have a X model and would prefer to use the Remote Control IN jack, there are kits that use a 3.5mm plug instead of an emitter or AFAIK
, you can simply replace the emitter with a 3.5mm mono-to-mono cable. Google "IR extender kit" or "IR repeater kit" and ensure you read the fine print to get a model that is appropriate for your particular requirements. Also make sure it is returnable if it doesn't work correctly.
c. Switched Outlets:
Denon AVRs no longer include switched outlets; however, they can be easily replicated by using a smart power strip like this
one or this
one. Also, as a reminder, when using an AVR with switched outlets, never plug the subwoofer into them as they are not designed for a high amperage device like a subwoofer.
Although the X4300H and X6300H are the only 2016 models with a Phono input, you can connect a turntable to any model using a phono pre-amp similar to this
one (if one is not built in to the turntable). Simply connect the pre-amp to any of the analog inputs on the AVR.
a. Audyssey DSX Front Height/Front Wide:
Front Wide speakers are no longer supported so Audyssey DSX has been removed.
b. Minimum number of speakers:
All models can run with a minimum of 2 speakers up to 5 (or 11) depending on the model. Audyssey will work just as well with 2 speakers as it will with up to and including 11 speakers.
c. Speaker Recommendation:
When considering speakers, the general rule of thumb for a good 5.1 setup is to budget at least 2x the cost of the AVR (ie. $500 AVR -> $1000+ 5.1 speaker setup), the bottom line is you're much better served with a lower quality AVR and better quality speakers, then a higher level AVR and lower quality speakers. If you're considering one of the lower level models (or your budget is < $500 for speakers), a good setup is either the Energy Take 5.1 Classic
, Klipsch HDT 300 5.1
, Jamo 5.1
, or the Fluance 5.0
(so you'll need to add a sub). If you don't mind spending some time in the used market (eg. Craigslist), you can sometimes find a $1000-$1500 5.1 original MSRP setup for $500 or less. Although Denon AVRs are designed to work with 6-8ohm speakers, you can generally safely use 4ohm speakers if the volume is limited to average listening volume only (ie. max volume roughly -20db).
However, it's generally better to stick with 8ohm speakers unless using the X3300W/X4300H/X6300H in which case you can add an external amp if necessary. Review this
post for more information on the impact of speaker efficiency. Bottom line is that going from speakers rated at 86db efficiency to 89db efficiency is like going from a 75W AVR to a 150W AVR so look for more efficient speakers rather than a higher powered AVR
. Ideally you would want to demo different speakers at a Best Buy/Magnolia or other Hi Fi shop, keeping in mind these stores generally do not run the AVRs EQ program (eg. Audyssey) so if you like their sound in the store, they'll likely sound even better when in your home after running Audyssey Setup. If you are just starting to build your speaker setup, it's better to have better quality front three speakers L/C/R and sub and hold off on the surround speakers until you can afford them. If TV and movies will make up the majority of your audio listening, you'll ideally want the center speaker to be of the same (or better) quality than your front L/R speakers as 80%+ of the dialogue will come from the center speaker.
If you have a 5.1 surround setup from a HTIB that you want to use with your new AVR ... DON’T, at least not without checking what impedance the speakers are rated. More often than not, HTIB speakers are generally only 2-4ohm speakers designed to work only with the receiver that came with the HTIB and in some cases have special wire connectors. If they are 6ohm or 8ohm speakers (as is the case with Denon Boston Acoustics setups), you're good to go, otherwise, sell the HTIB speaker setup on Craigslist or eBay and buy a stand-alone 8ohm speaker setup. Also, ideally stay away from Bose speaker systems as they generally don't work well with Audyssey due to having to be connected to the Bose Acoustimass module first so the AVR never sees the sub.
d. Speaker/Sub Volume:
Press the SETUP button on the remote and change the speaker levels in the Manual Setup menu. These adjustments can be made without impacting the Audyssey filters. However, before making adjustments to the sub (esp. increasing the volume), try leaving it at the current setting (after running Audyssey Setup) for at least 2-3 weeks to adjust to the "reference" setting the mixer intended rather than the boomy bass many are used to hearing from older model receivers. If after that time, you still feel you want the sub volume louder, then bump it up a few db using the AVR menu to suit your "preference."
e. Speaker Wire:
For speaker wire runs up to 80', a 16AWG wire will be sufficient. Longer runs should use 14AWG wire. A good place to buy speaker wire is from forum sponsor Monoprice.
f. Subwoofer - Best location:
To learn more about the best place in your room to place your subwoofer, follow the
g. Subwoofer - Cable option:
If you don't have a digital coax cable handy to connect the sub preout on the AVR to the sub, you can use the "yellow" composite video cable as a suitable substitute.
h. Surround Speaker Placement/Wire Connections:
With a 5.0 or 5.1 setup, the surround speakers are considered "side" surrounds and should be connected to the speaker posts labeled "Surround" and ideally be placed about 2'-3' above seated ear height and within 90-110 degrees from the main listening position (ie. to the "sides" of the main listening position and NOT the rear). When you add a 2nd set of surrounds in a 7.0 or 7.1 setup, or "rear" surrounds, they should be connected to the "Surr Back/Amp Assign" speaker posts and also ideally placed about 2'-3' above seated ear height and about 3' directly behind the main listening position. See the Dolby Digital website here
for more information. Note: If you only have a 5.0/5.1 setup and the surround speakers are already wired in the rear, then you must still connect those speakers to the "side" SURROUND speaker posts as this is the proper setup for a 5.0/5.1 setup.
i. Tower Speakers w/built in sub:
When using this type of speaker (eg. Def Tech) and no external sub, connect the LFE cable from the AVR sub preout to a "Y" splitter and then to each speaker's sub. After running Audyssey Setup, you will still want to set the front mains to SMALL (regardless of what the mfr's speaker manual recommends) as there are 8x (MultEQ XT) and 64x (MultEQ) more Audyssey sub filters than speaker filters. This configuration will also then allow you to adjust the sub channel volume to suit your preference. Note with XT32, there are an equivalent number of speaker and sub control points, so without a dedicated sub in the setup, you can go either way with either a LARGE or SMALL setting.
a. Airplay icon not showing up
If the Airplay icon is no longer displayed, try one or more of the following steps to resolve the issue:
b. “Airplay Speaker Not Available”:
- Set the AVR to Standby and unplug it for 10 minutes. Then plug back in and turn on again. You may need to do this several times.
- If using an iPhone or HTPC, try cycling it OFF/ON/OFF/ON while it's connected to the network.
- Close/Open iTunes a few times.
- Power cycle the router, wireless bridge, or Powerline adapters OFF/ON/OFF/ON.
- If your router has a "multicast" option, try setting it to YES.
- Cycle DHCP OFF/ON/OFF/ON.
- Assign the AVR with a static IP address of its own. Turn off DHCP and select an IP address out of the normal range (1-100, eg. 192.168.1.101 ) and then leave the subnet address that's there. Give it a few minutes after you type it in and you should see the icon pop up on your device.
- If using a Verizon Actiontec router .... on the router, go to the Advanced tab (accept the warning) and go to the IGMP Proxy menu and disable "IGMP Proxy" which should resolve the issue. On newer Actiontec routers, if you don't see the IGMP setting, but do see a "Routing" setting, then select Routing/Routing Protocols/IGMP and disable "IGMP Proxy" there. Another setting which has been shown to work is to enable the setting just above the setting on the main Advanced menu. The issue here generally only presents when the AVR is wired directly to the Actiontec router and the iDevice is connected wirelessly. Note however, that if streaming IPTV, disabling this proxy will also disable the IPTV connection, so in that case you'll need to leave IGMP enabled and place an ethernet switch between the Actiontec and the rest of the network.
- Regardless of the type router being used, if there is a "Disable IGMP Proxy" setting that is checked, try unchecking it and see if that resolves the issue. Otherwise, try toggling the "IGMP Proxy" setting ON/OFF/ON.
This issue may be a result of not turning OFF the NET/USB source on the AVR (as opposed to just changing inputs). When you are finished with the Airplay audio, press/hold the remote ENTER button. Another solution is to uncheck the Airplay symbol on the iPhone/iPad (putting it on the iphone/iPad speaker and thus breaking the handshake).
c. AVR randomly changes to other sources:
Forum member ppasteur was able to resolve this issue by purchasing an HDMI adapter that removes the CEC path from the Apple TV 4k which was causing the problem --> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...l#post57594176
Otherwise, this may indicate a defective HDMI board. Reset the microprocessor as listed in your Owner's manual and if still no joy, then give Denon a call to have it repaired.
d. AVR shuts down at higher volumes:
A good rule of thumb is to not raise the master volume above 0db (relative) or 82 (absolute) as it may result in clipping/distortion from the speakers. You can set the "Volume Limit" setting to 0db to ensure this doesn't happen. If the AVR is shutting down at volumes lower than 0db (eg. -10db) then it is most likely the result of a loose speaker wire from one post on the back of the AVR touching another post so verify all speaker connections are clean. Pull the AVR out of the cabinet or rack if you have to in order to visually check the rear panel as more than one owner has learned a cursory look with a flash light may not be good enough to see the single wire strand that is causing the problem.
e. AVR switches to TV source when first turned ON:
This occurs because you have the HDMI-CEC/ARC feature on your TV set to ON as well as HDMI Control on the AVR set to ON. The "TV Audio Switching" (SETUP - VIDEO - HDMI Setup - TV Audio Switching) factory defaults to ON. Set this to OFF to resolve this issue. You would then need to manually select the "TV Audio" source on the remote when you want to pass the TV smart app audio back to the AVR.
f. Cannot see networked Denon on my computer/laptop:
Try doing the following: Go to "control panel"..."my computer"... "my network places"..."show icons for networked upnp devices." If using a Verizon Actiontec router .... on the router, go to Advanced (accept the warning) and go to the IGMP Proxy menu and disable IGMP Proxy which should resolve the issue. Note however, that if streaming IPTV, disabling this proxy will also disable the IPTV connection, so in that case you'll need to leave IGMP enabled and place an Ethernet switch between the Actiontec and the rest of the network.
g. Center Channel dialog too weak watching TV:
Adjust the Dynamic EQ "Reference Offset" setting from 0 to 10db. You can also try increasing the center channel volume by adjusting the Center Dialogue setting. Setting Dynamic Volume to ON(Evening/Medium) will also help to improve lower level dialogue. And lastly, another option is to use the "Multi CH Stereo" mode which will add the dialog to the surround speakers bringing it closer to your main listening position.
h. "Connection failed. Check the device":
This error occurs with the networking models when the AVR is unable to connect to the home internet router/modem. Place the AVR in Standby and unplug for a few minutes. Reset the router or connect directly to the router if connecting wirelessly. You also may want to consider replacing the router if it is more than several years old with one that is capable of handling higher bandwidth. If you are using an Apple device, make sure that "Home Sharing" is turned ON (as it may have been turned OFF by updating the firmware/iOS). If you use a NETGEAR router, try disabling the UPnP mode. If the SSID of your router contains a "space", rename the router without the space.
i. Green screen on TV:
This is usually the result of either a bad HDMI cable or HDMI handshake issue with the TV. Try replacing the HDMI cables with "High Speed" (1080p) cables. Also try the HDMI Handshake resolution tips listed in item (k) below. If after doing the suggested tips, you are still seeing a green screen, give Denon a call as there may be an issue with the AVR's HDMI board.
j. HD Channel (DD 5.1) in Stereo:
Sometimes when a TV station indicates the HD show is in DD 5.1, they will only broadcast a stereo signal but do it over a 5.1 audio track with blank channels so although the front panel display will say Dolby Digital you will only hear audio from your front L/R speakers. And because it is detected as DD 5.1, you cannot use a simulation mode (eg. DD PLII or Dolby Surround) to simulate 5.1 audio. Note also that not all HD channels are broadcast using DD 5.1 audio and even those that are advertised as DD 5.1, the station may only broadcast stereo 2.0.
k. HDMI Handshake Issues (audio/video dropouts):
Handshake issues will most often present as "audio dropouts" or sometimes video display issues. Ensure the source device having the issue has the latest firmware installed and has been reset (ie. powered down, unplugged for a few minutes, then powered back ON again). For a more detailed HDMI reset try the following procedure ....
- HDMI HDCP reset
- With all devices powered on, remove the two HDMI cables at both ends from the source device to the AVR and from the AVR to the TV.
- Power off all devices and disconnect power cables to all devices.
- Wait 10-15 minutes.
- Reconnect HDMI and power cables to all devices.
- Power on the devices in this order ... TV, wait a few secs, AVR, wait a few secs, and then source device (although this is the generally recommended order, in some instances, you may have better luck powering on the AVR first and then the TV, then the source last ... bottom line if it's still not working, try a different power on sequence).
If the issue only involves the cable/sat box, HDMI handshake issues with cable/sat boxes are quite common (with any brand of AVR) and are usually always the fault of the cable/sat box not being designed to be connected to an HDMI repeater (ie. AVR) which is why they work without issue connected directly to the TV. Give your cable/sat box provider a call to see if there is a separate firmware update that can be applied to the box to resolve the issue although note that in some cases, a future firmware update to the cable/sat box may very well cause an HDMI handshake issue as well, so your best option to avoid the issue now (or in the future) is to connect the cable/sat box HDMI directly to the TV and also connect an optical cable from the cable/sat box to the AVR for surround audio. If you don't have an optical cable available, and your cable/sat box has a coax digital "orange" output, you can also use a coax digital cable (note: a "yellow" composite video RCA cable is a suitable substitute) and connect it to the SAT/CBL coax digital input on the AVR (ie. right next to the optical jack). Note that with this configuration (ie. HDMI straight to TV) you will lose the GUI/status menu for the cable/sat box, but you retain the capability to watch TV using the TV speakers only with the AVR in Standby (eg. news, sports, wife, kids). Another option, if your AVR features a component video input is to connect both a component video cable and an optical (or digital coax) cable from the cable/sat box to the AVR noting that although you gain the GUI/status menu feature, you will lose the capability to watch TV using the TV speakers only. You may also want to try upgrading to a different model cable/sat box.
Other possible solutions:
l. HTPC won't pass audio/video:
- Try inserting an HDMI switch in between the AVR and the TV (or better yet add either an HDMI Dective Plus or Dr HDMI).
- Ensure there is proper ventilation around the AVR (at least 3-4" above the unit) and if enclosed in a cabinet, use a PC fan to exhaust the heated air out the back of the cabinet
- HDMI performance can also vary between the different HDMI input jacks due to quirks of circuit board design so be sure to try each of the other HDMI inputs as one may work better than another
- With the (S920W/X2300W) and higher models, if you are having a video issue, try setting the "Resolution" setting to the resolution of the TV(eg. 1080p) rather than using the "Auto" setting.
- Try inserting the Dr. HDMI between the AVR and the TV/PJ.
HTPC connections can be "iffy" at best. If you are having problems trying to connect your HTPC to the AVR, ensure the HDMI port on the HTPC is selected for audio/video output and that the latest firmware is installed on the HTPC video card or try a different video card if one is available. Try each of the HDMI inputs on the AVR (especially the one closest to the HDMI Monitor Out jack) as well as ensuring the HTPC is set to a standard TV resolution rather than the default resolution of the HTPC's display. If using a 6' HDMI cable, try using a longer HDMI cable (12'+) as this has been known to work in some instances. The issue likely involves incorrect EDID information being passed to the HTPC video card from jhe AVR. Refer to this
post and this
post both of which discuss an EDID Override
procedure. If you are having problems using Windows Media Player then try using TVersity
. If you are having problems playing .flac files, try using ffdshow
. Sometimes connecting a Gefen HDMI Detective
between the HTPC and the AVR has been known to resolve the EDID issues. The HDMI Detective also works well with DVI TV's that are having EDID issues. If you are trying to connect to a Panasonic plasma, and getting the 10 red blinking light on the Panny, check out this
post for several solutions.
NVIDIA video card owners:
Try the following: Bring up the NVIDIA control panel. For display options, select the AVR (not the HTPC display). AVR->Adjust desktop color settings->Apply the following enhancements->Content type reported to the display->Full-screen video (vice the default of AUTO).
If the HTPC is having issues reconnecting after coming out of "sleep" mode, then refer to this ATI solution
or this NVIDIA solution
for more info to resolve the issue.
Another option is to set the “Video Mode" setting to either "MOVIE" or "GAME" vice "AUTO."
m. Intermittent HDMI audio/video:
Other than the possibility of an HDMI handshake, try connecting the HDMI cable to each of the other inputs on the AVR to determine if one HDMI jack works better for you with that input (previous year's models have shown that HDMI1 and HDMI2 react differently than the other inputs). Also try all the HDMI inputs on your TV as well as ensuring there is a tight, secure connection at both ends of the HDMI cable as sometimes the cable can just be loose. Note that just because the HDMI cable works when connected directly to the TV, doesn't necessarily mean it will work when connected to the AVR. When in doubt, try another HDMI cable that is confirmed to work with the AVR. You may also want to try inserting an HDMI switch between the AVR and the TV.
n. No audio from single speaker:
If there is no audio coming from a single speaker, try swapping the speaker with another speaker to ensure it works. If it works, it's not the speaker. Place it back in its’ original location. Unhook the speaker wire at the AVR posts and connect it to a AA battery (+/+ and then tap the - to the -). If you hear static at the speaker, then there is no short in the wire itself and the issue is with the AVR channel. Try resetting the microprocessor as noted in post #5 to see if that resolves the issue. If not, time to call Denon or your local Denon authorized repair facility.
o. No Video on AVR front panel display:
If you suddenly find no video being displayed on the front panel display, check to see that the PURE button on the remote wasn't pressed and changed the surround mode to PURE DIRECT which turns off the front panel display. Also check to make sure all your cable connections are securely inserted into their jacks as kids, cats, and cleaning folks have a habit of getting to the back panels and can accidently loosen the connection.
p. Projector - no video displayed:
If you are running an HDMI cable from the AVR to a projector that is longer than 20' and it won't pass 1080p video but will pass 720p, then the signal is too weak. Test this by using a shorter cable to the PJ. HDMI generally only works to about 15'-20' without issues, although some owners have indicated with a Monoprice 50' HDMI cable they have no issues. Monoprice also now sells “active” HDMI cables.
. If replacing the cable is not possible, you'll likely want to try a powered HDMI extender. Check Monoprice as there are several models offered. For those of you using HDMI--> CAT 5/6 converters, and having video display issues, you may want to try using this HDMI voltage enhancer
q. PS3/Blu Ray Player (BDP)/Game machine - No video or intermittent video issue:
On the PS3 or Blu Ray player, set the "Deep Color Output" setting to OFF. Ensure the game machine is set to a standard TV resolution otherwise the AVR won't recognize the signal. Additionally, on the xBox, try turning off “auto-detect display settings” and forcing the display settings to match the TV.
r. Speaker volume change won't stick:
When you make individual speaker/sub volume changes using Manual Setup - Test Tones, the changes are global and will apply to all source inputs. If you want to make source specific changes, use the OPTION - Channel Level Adjust.
s. Sub not working:
If there is no audio coming from the sub, it could be the sub is dead, the sub's power cord isn't plugged in and the sub powered ON, the sub coax digital cable is bad, there is an issue with the AVR sub preout, or the AVR's speaker settings are incorrect. First make sure the sub is plugged in and powered ON. Remove the cable from the AVR sub preout jack and rub your finger over the connector tip. You should hear some static from the sub. If not, replace the cable with another cable (use a "yellow" composite video cable to test with) and try again. If still no noise from the sub, then you may have a busted sub. Otherwise if there is noise from the sub, the issue is with the AVR. Make sure that all speakers are set to SMALL (Manual Setup as well as 2CH Direct/Stereo custom settings if your model has this feature) with no lower than 80hz crossovers which will then pass all audio below 80hz to the sub. If you have your front speakers set to LARGE and the sub set to LFE, then although the sub will play the low bass in the 0.1 (LFE) channel during DD/DTS 5.1 movies, it will not play the low bass in stereo (2.0) music unless you change the sub setting to LFE+Main, although the issue with no bass during music is alleviated if the front mains are set to SMALL w/80hz crossovers as is suggested after running Audyssey Setup.
t. Surround mode changes:
You change the surround mode for SD channels from stereo to DD PLII - Cinema but it changes back to stereo the next time you turn on the AVR. The most common cause for this is that you are using a Quick Select button to select the source and didn't re-memorize the new surround setting to the Quick Select by pressing/holding the QS button for 3-4 seconds after making the change. Otherwise, the Personal Memory Plus feature of the AVR will remember the setting and use that same setting the next time that source signal is received.
u. Unresolved Issues:
If you are experiencing an issue with your AVR that is not listed in post #4
of this thread, and for which you cannot get a resolution either by (a) reviewing the information in this thread, (b) unplugging the AVR for a few minutes, (c) resetting the source device, (d) ensuring the source device has the firmware updated (if possible), (e) ensuring the AVR has it's firmware updated (if a networking model), (f) resetting the microprocessor using the procedure in your Owner’s manual, or (g) posting the issue in this thread, then call Denon CSR at 800-497-8921 and report the issue. If you have not reported it to Denon yourself personally, don't assume that Denon is aware of the issue
. If the CSR response is "I've never heard of your issue before," ask the CSR if they can test it out on one of their units there and call you back. If they don't comply, go to Denon's website here
, review their FAQ and if still no resolution, then register, and submit your issue with the AVR as well as the response provided by the Denon CSR via the "Ask A Question" tab. Regardless of how you submit your question, if you receive a response from Denon that resolves your issue, please post Denon's response here in the thread so others might learn from it as well.
v. Volume drops randomly from AT&T U-verse box:
Setting Audyssey Dynamic Vol to OFF for the AT&T U-Verse source input should resolve this issue, otherwise you can bypass the AVR with HDMI from the box to the TV and optical from the box to the AVR.
w. White sparkles on TV:
If you see white sparkles (ie. snow) displayed on the HDTV when the source is connected via HDMI, this may be a sign the HDMI cable is defective. Before replacing the cable; however, try powering on your equipment in this order: TV, AVR, source device and see if that resolves the issue. If not, you can find inexpensive High Speed (1080p/4k) or Standard (720p/1080i) replacement cables at forum sponsor Monoprice.
If it's happening with your Blu Ray player (BDP) only, try setting Deep Color Output
to OFF. Some LG BDP's output in Deep Color and don't have a setting to turn it OFF. If you are having issues with it, you may want to consider changing to another brand of BDP.
x. Why do my small speakers get set to LARGE?:
The AVR will set any speaker to LARGE if it detects it can handle frequencies < 50hz in your room (regardless of what they are rated for on paper). If there is no sub in your setup, the front mains must default to LARGE, otherwise if there is a sub, then manually set the speaker to SMALL with at least a 60hz or 80hz crossover. For more information on bass management and the LARGE/SMALL settings refer to this
y. Why "Multi Ch In" and not DD/DTS/Dolby TrueHD/DTS MA HD/Atmos/DTS:X?:
This is because your source device (eg. Blu Ray player or HTPC) is set to "PCM" and so it is decoding/uncompressing the audio to PCM. If you want the AVR to do the decoding (although it won't matter audio quality wise which one decodes it) so you can see the compressed audio track on the AVR's front panel display then set the source device to "bitstream" with either the Secondary Audi/BD Audio Mix set to OFF. Note that when playing an ATMOS or DTS:X BD, the source device must be set to "bitstream" with Secondary Audio (OFF).
On the PS4: The PS4 has two audio settings, the main audio settings for games and apps, which should ideally be set to LPCM. This is so it doesn't need to reencode the PCM audio data that games output to whatever audio codec you set. While the second audio setting is only available by opening up the pop-up menu when watching a blu-ray or DVD; this is where you can set bitstream audio to receive Dolby True-HD/Atmos or DTS-HD/X.
z. Why only "STEREO" or "Dolby Surround" and not DD TrueHD/DTS HD MA?:
This is because you likely had your Blu Ray player or game box connected directly to your TV (prior to adding the AVR) which could only receive a stereo signal so the source device is only passing a stereo 2.0 signal. Reset the BDP/game box while connected to the AVR so it will pass a multi-channel signal (also see above para (y)). Refer to your BDP or game box owner's manuals on how to reset them to pass multi-channel audio noting that with some 2015 and newer BDPs (ie. Panasonic and Sony), it is no longer possible for the BDP to decode other than 2CH audio, so the BDP will have to be set to "bitstream" with Secondary Audio/BD Audio Mix set to OFF to pass multi channel audio to the AVR.
z1. Wii only displays in 4:3 aspect:
If you have a (S510BT/S720W/X1300W) (ie. no video card), there is no ASPECT setting, so regardless of what you have the Wii set to, it will only display to 16:9 if you change your TV setting from "AUTO" to "Fullscreen" (or whatever the setting is to expand 4:3 content to 16:9). Note that any other picture display/format changes must also be made using the TV as there are no video display setting changes.
z2. WIN 7/8/10 PC shows up as "Not Authorized":
On the AVR, set DHCP to OFF, then put in a manual address for the router and set DHCP back to ON. Also check Control Panel --> Network and Internet --> View Network Computers and Devices --> Denon AVR-XXXX .... change setting from "Blocked" to "Allowed."
z3. Windows Media Player (WMP 11/12) audio files won't play from PC via wireless network:
If you have an extremely large media library which includes artwork with the files and some of the files are not playing on the AVR, try using MediaMonkey
to strip/hide the artwork from the AVR. First when adding the library to MediaMonkey, you have to go to tools\\options\\library and uncheck “scan file directory for artwork”. After the transfer you still have the artwork for every single song embedded in the tag. You can easily remove that by hitting the right button over the picture and after choosing “remove image” also check the option “remove image from all the tracks in the album”. Doing so should then allow you to play the album wirelessly to the AVR. Removing the artwork can be done with the FREE version, although review the website for the benefits of using the Gold version if additional capabilities are needed.
12. Zone 2
a. 2-CH Amp:
The "X" models each have Zone 2 pre-outs (the X4300H and X6300H also have Zone 3 pre-outs) which can be used to connect a red/white RCA cable to an external amp if you want to run a 7.1 setup in the main zone plus Zone 2 and/or Zone 3 speakers, otherwise, if you only want to run a 5.1 setup, you can use the Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts to power the Zone 2 speakers (7.1 models only). You can generally find used 2CH amps on Craigslist for ~$50 or you can buy a new AudioSource Amp100VS
. You can also re-purpose an old AVR you own as well by connecting the RCA cable to one of the 2nd AVR's stereo analog inputs and connecting the Zone 2 speakers to the FL/FR speaker posts on the Zone 2 AVR. Set the surround mode on the old AVR to "DIRECT" and the volume level to at least 80%.
b. Source Limitations:
Depending on the model, the Zone 2 models (all but S510BT) have up to two ways to pass HDMI audio to Zone 2. The 2016 (S720W. S920W) and all "X" models feature an "All Zone Stereo" feature that can pass the same stereo HDMI audio playing in the main zone to the Zone 2 Amp Assign speaker posts or Zone 2 pre-outs (X series only). Additionally the 2016 (X3300W/X4300H/X6300H) models are able to pass the same or an independent HDMI1-7 (rear panel only) PCM 2.0 audio source to the Zone 2 (HDMI) monitor out jack (note that when the same HDMI source is selected for both main and Zone 2, the main zone audio will be down mixed to the lowest common denominator of the two TVs connected to the monitor outputs even with Zone 2 set to OFF such that if the Zone 2 TV can only process a stereo 2.0 signal, the main zone will be down mixed to stereo as well). This also applies to the video as well. If a 1080p TV is connected to the Zone 2 monitor output and a 4k TV is connected to the main zone monitor output, if a 4k Blu Ray is played to both zones, only a 1080p signal will play to both displays (ie. lowest common denominator).
Otherwise, on the (S720W, S920W, X1300W, X2300W) models, to pass independent external sources to Zone 2 will require connecting an analog RCA (red/white) cable from the source to the AVR in addition to the HDMI cable for the main zone.
c. Whole House Audio:
If you have other than the S510BT and want to send the "same" audio to more than just one zone/room, you can connect a multi zone impedance matching speaker selector (eg. 4 zone speaker selector
) to the Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts. If adding more than 2 additional rooms; however, you will want to consider an AVR model that has Zone 2 pre-outs (ie. "X" models only) so that a separate 2CH amp can run the whole house speakers. You would then connect the speaker selector between the speakers and the external amp.
d. Wireless Headphones:
One advantage of having a model with Zone 2 pre-outs (ie. "X" model), is that you can connect a set of analog wireless headphones (eg. Sennheiser) and listen to music elsewhere in the house while someone is watching a movie or playing a game in the main zone (noting the Zone 2 limitations listed above).
Disclaimer: All information posted above is believed to be accurate. If you find that to not be the case, please PM me with the corrected information to include links which may no longer work. Also if you have any other 3rd party product recommendations please PM with that information as well.