*Official* Marantz 2016 NR-1607, SR-5011/6011/7011 owner's thread - Page 146 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4351 of 5018 Old 06-12-2018, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by amblinfan View Post
Anyone know if they plan on having GUI overlay when signal is Dolby Vision? It's kind of annoying not having and OSD or overlay over any kind.
This is a feature offered on the new 2018 models, but have not heard whether it will be possible to pass down to the 2017 and older models.
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post #4352 of 5018 Old 06-12-2018, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Sharp1080 View Post
I finally joined the loose connection behind the binding post club. I just happened to notice my left channel had dropped quite a lot. Wiggled the connector and it returned. I'll leave it at that since others have already been critical of the build quality.
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Originally Posted by Sharp1080 View Post
Thanks for the advice. My problem is I already have the Wireworld cable wired direct to the connector. I'll mess with it one day when it happens again.
The fault (loose contact) happens inside the connector that is not reachable from the outside. IMO, it can only get worse. Mechanical movements from outside like twiggling the cable/connection can temporarily fix the isssue. But these actions could also make the loose contact progressively worse. The problem would recur probably once in a month, then once a week, then once each couple of days.

I'd say that you are lucky to experience the problem just in time if your unit is still under warranty.
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post #4353 of 5018 Old 06-12-2018, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by chrislax19 View Post
Hi Everyone- I just purchased a Marantz SR-5012 and would like to lean on your expertise.

Two Questions:
1. I have a 5.1 Def Tech speaker set-up. I use the subwoofer in the two front towers for bass. I do not own a separate subwoofer.

My previous Pioneer Elite receiver had only one subwoofer port, so I used a splitter to plug both LFE cables into the single port.

This receiver has two subwoofer ports. Should I plug an LFE from each tower into each seperate port, or should I continue using my splitter and plug both into one port?


2. I will be plugging all sources into my receiver (PS4 Pro, Xbox One X, Comcast box, and Nintendo Switch). I noticed this receiver has Bluetooth functionality. Can I play Xbox and listen to Pandora through my phone through the speakers in parallel?


Thanks!!
If you don't plan on using a separate subwoofer in the near future, then use one (1) pre-out for each tower. Technically it's fine also the way you have it with a splitter, I just feel it's a cleaner solution.

Sony XBR-77A9G / Panasonic DP-UB9000 / Marantz SR7011 / Def Tech 9060 Series
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post #4354 of 5018 Old 06-13-2018, 06:33 AM
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One of major annoyance I am having is lip sync, going to my LG C6.



Normal content (1080p or 4K), I need about 30-40 ms delay.
HDR10 it appears about 70-80 ms is correct.
Dolby Vision, about 120 ms is needed.



Unless I'm wrong, there is no way to quickly assign a shortcut for these settings, as "Smart Select" buttons don't appear to memorize those settings. Do I just have to adjust it based on the content I am watching each time?
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post #4355 of 5018 Old 06-13-2018, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Vivix729 View Post
One of major annoyance I am having is lip sync, going to my LG C6.



Normal content (1080p or 4K), I need about 30-40 ms delay.
HDR10 it appears about 70-80 ms is correct.
Dolby Vision, about 120 ms is needed.



Unless I'm wrong, there is no way to quickly assign a shortcut for these settings, as "Smart Select" buttons don't appear to memorize those settings. Do I just have to adjust it based on the content I am watching each time?
I just use Auto lip sync and it has worked well. Have you tried it? Make sure all HDMI cdid settings are enabled as well for tv, avr and source.

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post #4356 of 5018 Old 06-13-2018, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by pbz06 View Post
I just use Auto lip sync and it has worked well. Have you tried it? Make sure all HDMI cdid settings are enabled as well for tv, avr and source.

Auto Sync doesn't work at all, it actually made things worse. Image delay is added by TV's processing, I assume.
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post #4357 of 5018 Old 06-13-2018, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by dianebrat View Post
It will happen again, and probably in the foreseeable future, this does not get better but you can test with simple zip cord however I noticed that you don't mention if you're clamping or banana plugs, just keep in mind this does not always affect methods.
Binding post with wire inserted inside it.
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post #4358 of 5018 Old 06-13-2018, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharp1080 View Post
Binding post with wire inserted inside it.
So my next step would be a banana plug.
I have the issue with one of my banana plugs and it just did not ever get better, moved to clamping the wire and everything has been fine for months.
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post #4359 of 5018 Old 06-13-2018, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharp1080 View Post
Binding post with wire inserted inside it.
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Originally Posted by dianebrat View Post
So my next step would be a banana plug.
I have the issue with one of my banana plugs and it just did not ever get better, moved to clamping the wire and everything has been fine for months.
Attached is a close up of "fixed" binding posts. The arrow points to where the loose contact used to occur. That's where the gold-colored metal part from outside meets the silver-colored metal part inside that's soldered to the board.
I soldered the two metal parts together for permanent good connections.

Maybe one can insert "hooked" solid copper wires from outside thru the screw holes to reach the silver-colored metal parts when everything else fails. That is, without opening the receiver.
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post #4360 of 5018 Old 06-13-2018, 05:09 PM
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Guys, I am trying to save the settings on a USB disk. Every time I attempt to do that (select save/load settings), the receiver turns off (or goes blank). Any idea what might be happening here? Thanks in advance!
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post #4361 of 5018 Old 06-13-2018, 07:24 PM
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I have a question about the i/p scaler. If I have it turned on, and set on "Auto" for output to my 4K TV on HDMI, should it be taking the HDMI signal and upscaling that to 4K out to my TV? When I am watching the DirecTV 4K channel, if I check my system info on my television it says "2160p" and "HLG" for HDR. However, when I watch any other channel, like ESPN which is 720p, then my TV says it's in 720p, even though I have the scaler on. Shouldn't it still be outputting in 4K or am I thinking of this incorrectly.

I did just get a firmware update on the 6011 tonight which is why I turned the scaler back on at all. I had it off because we had upgrade our DirecTV equipment and with the new DTV equipment, any channel that was NOT 4K would be pink. When I turned off the i/p scaler that went away. Now the channels all look fine, but I don't think the scaler is actually scaling anything up.

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post #4362 of 5018 Old 06-14-2018, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by siddious33 View Post
I have a question about the i/p scaler. If I have it turned on, and set on "Auto" for output to my 4K TV on HDMI, should it be taking the HDMI signal and upscaling that to 4K out to my TV? When I am watching the DirecTV 4K channel, if I check my system info on my television it says "2160p" and "HLG" for HDR. However, when I watch any other channel, like ESPN which is 720p, then my TV says it's in 720p, even though I have the scaler on. Shouldn't it still be outputting in 4K or am I thinking of this incorrectly.

I did just get a firmware update on the 6011 tonight which is why I turned the scaler back on at all. I had it off because we had upgrade our DirecTV equipment and with the new DTV equipment, any channel that was NOT 4K would be pink. When I turned off the i/p scaler that went away. Now the channels all look fine, but I don't think the scaler is actually scaling anything up.
As noted on p. 194 of your Owner's manual, the <i/p Scaler> setting must be set to "HDMI" if you want HDMI signals to be upscaled otherwise the default is "Analog" which would result in no upscaling of an HDMI source.
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post #4363 of 5018 Old 06-14-2018, 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by musaji View Post
Guys, I am trying to save the settings on a USB disk. Every time I attempt to do that (select save/load settings), the receiver turns off (or goes blank). Any idea what might be happening here? Thanks in advance!
Try doing a "soft reset" of the AVR by simply powering it off and unplugging the power cable for 10 minutes. Then try the SAVE again. Ensure the USB thumb drive is FAT16 or FAT32 formatted.
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post #4364 of 5018 Old 06-14-2018, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
As noted on p. 194 of your Owner's manual, the <i/p Scaler> setting must be set to "HDMI" if you want HDMI signals to be upscaled otherwise the default is "Analog" which would result in no upscaling of an HDMI source.
I would like to take the question further. all of my components want to up scale. OPPO 203, SR6011 and XBR930e. In my setup being I have an XBR930e which has an insane upscale chip IMHO I have the OPPO set to source direct (no up scaling) and I/P off. My reasoning being that too many devices are trying to upscale the same image. I'm leaving it up to the Sony. Am I on the right path here?
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post #4365 of 5018 Old 06-14-2018, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ccps View Post
I would like to take the question further. all of my components want to up scale. OPPO 203, SR6011 and XBR930e. In my setup being I have an XBR930e which has an insane upscale chip IMHO I have the OPPO set to source direct (no up scaling) and I/P off. My reasoning being that too many devices are trying to upscale the same image. I'm leaving it up to the Sony. Am I on the right path here?
In most cases the source or TV itself will do a better job so most set <i/p Scaler> to OFF.
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post #4366 of 5018 Old 06-14-2018, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ccps View Post
I would like to take the question further. all of my components want to up scale. OPPO 203, SR6011 and XBR930e. In my setup being I have an XBR930e which has an insane upscale chip IMHO I have the OPPO set to source direct (no up scaling) and I/P off. My reasoning being that too many devices are trying to upscale the same image. I'm leaving it up to the Sony. Am I on the right path here?
Yes you are. I'm using the Sony 940D, Sony X800 4K player, and of course the 6011. I have the Sony X800 send native signal and Marantz I/P set to off as I want the TV do the upscaling.
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post #4367 of 5018 Old 06-14-2018, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
As noted on p. 194 of your Owner's manual, the <i/p Scaler> setting must be set to "HDMI" if you want HDMI signals to be upscaled otherwise the default is "Analog" which would result in no upscaling of an HDMI source.
Sorry, should have noted that it is set to HDMI. Here is how it's currently set:

Video Mode: Auto
Video Conversion: On
i/p scaler input source: HDMI
Resolution: Auto
Progressive Mode: Auto
Aspect Ratio: 16:9

It just seems to pass through the native resolution no matter what. I've tried changing the resolution setting from Auto, to different settings like 4K, 1080p, etc. but it always just shows up on the TV as whatever the native signal is. For example, if I watch ESPN, it always passes through 720p according to my television. It's not being upscaled to 2160p.

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post #4368 of 5018 Old 06-14-2018, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by siddious33 View Post
Sorry, should have noted that it is set to HDMI. Here is how it's currently set:

Video Mode: Auto
Video Conversion: On
i/p scaler input source: HDMI
Resolution: Auto
Progressive Mode: Auto
Aspect Ratio: 16:9

It just seems to pass through the native resolution no matter what. I've tried changing the resolution setting from Auto, to different settings like 4K, 1080p, etc. but it always just shows up on the TV as whatever the native signal is. For example, if I watch ESPN, it always passes through 720p according to my television. It's not being upscaled to 2160p.
Then, yes, it should be upscaling to 4k.
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post #4369 of 5018 Old 06-14-2018, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Then, yes, it should be upscaling to 4k.
That's what I thought. So strange. It is always just passing through the native signal, even with those settings. I'm pretty sure it worked before. I turned it off because we upgraded our DirecTV equipment and then all non-4K channels were pink. Turning off the i/p scaler fixed that issue. There was a firmware update for the SR6011 last night and now I can turn the i/p scaler back on with no pink channel issue, but it's not actually scaling anything up to 4K.

I have a support email in to Marantz about it now to see if they have an idea. Although now I'm wondering if I'm not better off to just let it pass the signal through, turn the scaler off and let my Vizio TV handle any upscaling with whatever signal it's fed.

I swear, every time I turn around there's some other little silly issue... lol.

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post #4370 of 5018 Old 06-14-2018, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by siddious33 View Post
That's what I thought. So strange. It is always just passing through the native signal, even with those settings. I'm pretty sure it worked before. I turned it off because we upgraded our DirecTV equipment and then all non-4K channels were pink. Turning off the i/p scaler fixed that issue. There was a firmware update for the SR6011 last night and now I can turn the i/p scaler back on with no pink channel issue, but it's not actually scaling anything up to 4K.

I have a support email in to Marantz about it now to see if they have an idea. Although now I'm wondering if I'm not better off to just let it pass the signal through, turn the scaler off and let my Vizio TV handle any upscaling with whatever signal it's fed.

I swear, every time I turn around there's some other little silly issue... lol.
Most owners likely keep it OFF and let the 4k TV do the job.
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post #4371 of 5018 Old 06-14-2018, 09:43 AM
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Siddious33, you miss reading my earlier reply?

I was sure I recommended turning it off?
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Last edited by Sharp1080; 06-14-2018 at 09:48 AM.
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post #4372 of 5018 Old 06-15-2018, 02:48 AM
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*Official* Marantz 2016 NR-1607, SR-5011/6011/7011 owner's thread

I recently got an Oppo-203 and found that when i try to playback anything that has Dolby vision, through the SR-6011 to my tv, I get a flashing picture. I suspected HDMI cables first so upgraded them all to Premium Certified HDMIs and I still have the issue. Interestingly, throughout my HDMI testing I accidentally plugged the HDMI going to the TV into the Zone 2 output and the flashing wasn’t happening! I wasn’t getting any sound but this struck me as having to do with the AVR and something it was doing as causing the problem. The picture, Dolby vision included, can make it without flashing using the cables i now have from Zone 2 output but not main?

So it has to be an AVR Setting having to do with main output.



I thought, maybe something with ARC, so I disabled that. No help. Then I thought maybe to try HDMI 1 on TV since it’s not arc compatible. Nope. Also tried HDMI 3 for good measure and still blinking. A direct Oppo to TV works without issue.



Wondering if anyone knows if there’s a setting or something i need to change in the AVR to have it stop causing this flashing? Audio works fine during flashing. Here’s the flashing I see.

EDIT: Fixed it! Found this gem of an article and number 3 here worked.

https://marantz-uk.custhelp.com/app/...gh-not-working

I moved the Oppo from the Game input to the Media player input and that was all it took! Getting full Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos on the TV now!


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| 7.2.4 Photos (Updated Photos 1/5) | Frequency Response | Visual: LG 65” B7A OLED | Elite VMAX-2 Electric 120" | Optoma GT1080 Proj |
| AVR/Amps: Marantz SR-6011 9C | Audio Source AMP-100VS | iNuke 1000DSP; TTs: 4x AuraSound Pro |
| Center: B&W CM Center 2 S2 Ed | Fronts: 2x B&W 684 S1s | Side Surrounds: 2x B&W 685 S1 |
| Front/Rear Heights: 4x Polk T15 | In-Ceiling: 2x Micca M-8C | Subs: 2x Rythmik FV15HP |

Last edited by citsur86; 06-15-2018 at 03:26 AM.
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post #4373 of 5018 Old 06-15-2018, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fruit View Post
Attached is a close up of "fixed" binding posts. The arrow points to where the loose contact used to occur. That's where the gold-colored metal part from outside meets the silver-colored metal part inside that's soldered to the board.
I soldered the two metal parts together for permanent good connections.

Maybe one can insert "hooked" solid copper wires from outside thru the screw holes to reach the silver-colored metal parts when everything else fails. That is, without opening the receiver.
Thank you so much for this! I am having the exact same issue and find myself constantly fiddling with the terminals. My working theory was that my sub was loosening them. I will try adding the solder this weekend.
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post #4374 of 5018 Old 06-15-2018, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Mistar Muffin View Post
Thank you so much for this! I am having the exact same issue and find myself constantly fiddling with the terminals. My working theory was that my sub was loosening them. I will try adding the solder this weekend.
You'll have to cut out bits of plastic to expose and solder where the two metal parts join. I used a nipper-sized cutter to do mine.
Good luck!
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post #4375 of 5018 Old 06-16-2018, 01:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
I recently got an Oppo-203 and found that when i try to playback anything that has Dolby vision, through the SR-6011 to my tv, I get a flashing picture. I suspected HDMI cables first so upgraded them all to Premium Certified HDMIs and I still have the issue. Interestingly, throughout my HDMI testing I accidentally plugged the HDMI going to the TV into the Zone 2 output and the flashing wasn’t happening! I wasn’t getting any sound but this struck me as having to do with the AVR and something it was doing as causing the problem. The picture, Dolby vision included, can make it without flashing using the cables i now have from Zone 2 output but not main?

So it has to be an AVR Setting having to do with main output.



I thought, maybe something with ARC, so I disabled that. No help. Then I thought maybe to try HDMI 1 on TV since it’s not arc compatible. Nope. Also tried HDMI 3 for good measure and still blinking. A direct Oppo to TV works without issue.



Wondering if anyone knows if there’s a setting or something i need to change in the AVR to have it stop causing this flashing? Audio works fine during flashing. Here’s the flashing I see.

EDIT: Fixed it! Found this gem of an article and number 3 here worked.

https://marantz-uk.custhelp.com/app/...gh-not-working

I moved the Oppo from the Game input to the Media player input and that was all it took! Getting full Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos on the TV now!


https://youtu.be/Qg6CJFuJxCo
Ahh, glad you got it figured out! Always had my 203 hooked up to the Blu-Ray input of my 6011, and not experienced that.

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post #4376 of 5018 Old 06-16-2018, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mistar Muffin View Post
Thank you so much for this! I am having the exact same issue and find myself constantly fiddling with the terminals. My working theory was that my sub was loosening them. I will try adding the solder this weekend.
You'll have to cut out bits of plastic to expose and solder where the two metal parts join. I used a nipper-sized cutter to do mine.
Good luck!
Edit:

Found a service manual and well on my way.

How do you even get down that far once the cover is removed? The big circuit board with all the HDMI ports is blocking my path. This is on a 6011. I have removed the black screws from the back and it still won't budge. Any tips or tricks?

Last edited by Mistar Muffin; 06-16-2018 at 10:49 AM.
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post #4377 of 5018 Old 06-16-2018, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fruit View Post
You'll have to cut out bits of plastic to expose and solder where the two metal parts join. I used a nipper-sized cutter to do mine.
Good luck!
Whole process took me over 5 hours. I used a Dremel to whittle down the plastic and expose the contacts before adding the solder. It's a noticeable and immediate improvement. I had surround speakers that would crackle and pop during any loud or low frequency moments. Now they are perfect.

Thanks again for finding the fix.
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post #4378 of 5018 Old 06-16-2018, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mistar Muffin View Post
Whole process took me over 5 hours. I used a Dremel to whittle down the plastic and expose the contacts before adding the solder. It's a noticeable and immediate improvement. I had surround speakers that would crackle and pop during any loud or low frequency moments. Now they are perfect.

Thanks again for finding the fix.
You did it in 5 hours, it took me more than 7.
Congratulations!
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post #4379 of 5018 Old 06-16-2018, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Fruit View Post
You did it in 5 hours, it took me more than 7.
Congratulations!
I'm impressed with both of you. It would have taken me 3 days before I gave up and bought a new one!
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Sony XBR-77A9G / Panasonic DP-UB9000 / Marantz SR7011 / Def Tech 9060 Series
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post #4380 of 5018 Old 06-17-2018, 02:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mistar Muffin View Post
Whole process took me over 5 hours. I used a Dremel to whittle down the plastic and expose the contacts before adding the solder. It's a noticeable and immediate improvement. I had surround speakers that would crackle and pop during any loud or low frequency moments. Now they are perfect.

Thanks again for finding the fix.
Hey! You cannot simply say: I have done it!
It should be really appreciated, remarkable and woud gain a neverlasting reward from our part if You would post some more about the process (dare to ask, some photos of the process?).

Thanks and CONGRATULATIONS!
Alessandro

Marantz Sr7011, Galactron Mk10b, Pioneer VsxLx50. Klipsch Cornwall, Wharfedale 9.1, Klipsch CP-6. Sony UbpX800, Lg Up970, Hisense 55M5500. 110 inches rolling screen, excelvan cl720d.
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