*Official* Marantz 2016 NR-1607, SR-5011/6011/7011 owner's thread - Page 149 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4441 of 5016 Old 07-03-2018, 07:12 AM
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Neither Ic402 or 403 could be replaced manually. I don't think it could even be possible to desolder them. They are laser soldered. For the bigger one it is much more impossible!
No dice, all the board has to be replaced.
My 0,02 cents
Regards
We all wish You luck!
Alessandro

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post #4442 of 5016 Old 07-03-2018, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vn800art View Post
Neither Ic402 or 403 could be replaced manually. I don't think it could even be possible to desolder them. They are laser soldered. For the bigger one it is much more impossible!
No dice, all the board has to be replaced.
My 0,02 cents
Regards
We all wish You luck!
Alessandro
When one is about to lose a board, might as well be adventurous. Here is a snip of how ball-grid-array surface-mount devices are handled.
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post #4443 of 5016 Old 07-03-2018, 03:33 PM
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I was replying to his specific question:
"Are these IC replaceable through DIY?"
I believe it's not possible.
Could he use X-rays? I believe not.
Regards
Alessandro

Marantz Sr7011, Galactron Mk10b, Pioneer VsxLx50. Klipsch Cornwall, Wharfedale 9.1, Klipsch CP-6. Sony UbpX800, Lg Up970, Hisense 55M5500. 110 inches rolling screen, excelvan cl720d.
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post #4444 of 5016 Old 07-03-2018, 05:29 PM
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Hey guys, I've got a SR7011 I just recently picked up

I'm using the front preouts to drive DIY active speakers.

I have a MiniDSP C-DSP 6x8 which is one of their car audio models but I had it and I don't intend to spend hundreds on a DCX2496 or a Driverack 260 or PA2 or anything when I have this.

Problem is when I connect the Marantz front preouts to the C-DSP, I get noise. Happens on the Marantz's outputs and happens on all of my amp outputs too. All of my components are hooked up to the same circuit. It doesn't matter if the MiniDSP is unplugged from power and remote (I can pull that connector out of the MiniDSP) and as long as it's also connected to any of my amps, noise. Happens with any, or no, source. Constant noise. And it's over a wide range, not just 60Hz or 120Hz.

Here's the strange part - if I put my Allen & Heath ZED-10 mixer between the receiver and the MiniDSP, such that it goes receiver -> mixer -> MiniDSP -> amplifiers, the noise is completely gone. The mixer is also plugged into the same circuit. I can also plug the receiver straight into any of my amps and it's also fine.

Could this be related to the MiniDSP's relatively low input impedance rating of 10kOhm?

I'm a little discouraged about this. I don't want to keep the mixer in the room (it's a very small room and the mixer is part of a different system). I don't want to spend money on a different DSP that may or may not have an issue (not even if I sell the MiniDSP - selling stuff used brings an unreasonable drop in price). I don't want to buy or build any additional buffers that I have to keep on the shelf to go with my >$1000 AVR that should just work.

Any suggestions of things to try aside from just getting a different receiver? Perhaps I should try making an RCA cable with just a 10kOhm resistor on it, putting that on one of the Marantz's preouts and see if that causes any noise.


Thanks

Edit: attempting to attach a picture I took with an app on my phone with peak hold. Peaks = orange line = with the noise. White line is with the MiniDSP unplugged which only removes the noise because I have no speakers plugged into the Marantz itself. If I had speakers in the Marantz it would be making noise even with the MiniDSP unplugged from power. In the white line here there is no noise OR signal. Edit to note: Some of the difference is error from the app but there is plenty of real noise there.

There is actually no signal being played either way. The upper line is just noise.
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post #4445 of 5016 Old 07-04-2018, 02:16 AM
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Update

Got some minor update:
was 6440-2017-8432-4554
now 6440-2017-8482-4554
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post #4446 of 5016 Old 07-04-2018, 03:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vn800art View Post
I was replying to his specific question:
"Are these IC replaceable through DIY?"
I believe it's not possible.
Could he use X-rays? I believe not.
Regards
Alessandro
I would. Heat the IC chip evenly with one of those mini-butane torches until it becomes loose. Pull it out. Inspect and clean the pcb's contact pads of possible shorts.
Reverse the process for soldering on the new IC chip (of course, with fresh solder balls/beads at its contact points array). Align the chip properly onto the pcb. Heat it up evenly until the solder balls melt onto the pcb's contact pads.
Done.
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post #4447 of 5016 Old 07-04-2018, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Fruit View Post
I would. Heat the IC chip evenly with one of those mini-butane torches until it becomes loose. Pull it out. Inspect and clean the pcb's contact pads of possible shorts.
Reverse the process for soldering on the new IC chip (of course, with fresh solder balls/beads at its contact points array). Align the chip properly onto the pcb. Heat it up evenly until the solder balls melt onto the pcb's contact pads.
Done.
There is no IC that would likely survive being heated with literally any kind of torch to the point that the solder flows. If you made it happen you got REALLY lucky. You can only use hot air or laser for this (laser wouldn't be done by hand - that would be a machine). It's very risky but maybe possible with hot air.

See Louis Rossman's Youtube channel; he doesn't work on audio gear but he fixes a lot of Macbooks and iPhones and he talks a lot about the risks of reballing a lot of BGA components. His channel isn't backup for my claim that you can't use a torch or anything - that's just common sense to an electronics technician. You take a torch anywhere near that chip and you will kill the chip, the PCB, and a bunch of other components on the PCB. Guaranteed.

Even when using hot air you have to take a bunch of precautions like shielding off anything on the board that you don't want to heat up.
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post #4448 of 5016 Old 07-04-2018, 11:45 AM
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Just to be informed, any news about the update mentioned in post #4445 ?

Marantz Sr7011, Galactron Mk10b, Pioneer VsxLx50. Klipsch Cornwall, Wharfedale 9.1, Klipsch CP-6. Sony UbpX800, Lg Up970, Hisense 55M5500. 110 inches rolling screen, excelvan cl720d.
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post #4449 of 5016 Old 07-04-2018, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by DonoMan View Post
There is no IC that would likely survive being heated with literally any kind of torch to the point that the solder flows. If you made it happen you got REALLY lucky. You can only use hot air or laser for this (laser wouldn't be done by hand - that would be a machine). It's very risky but maybe possible with hot air.

See Louis Rossman's Ebay channel; he doesn't work on audio gear but he fixes a lot of Macbooks and iPhones and he talks a lot about the risks of reballing a lot of BGA components. His channel isn't backup for my claim that you can't use a torch or anything - that's just common sense to an electronics technician. You take a torch anywhere near that chip and you will kill the chip, the PCB, and a bunch of other components on the PCB. Guaranteed.

Even when using hot air you have to take a bunch of precautions like shielding off anything on the board that you don't want to heat up.
I am suggesting an outline of a process for one to be adventurous when about to lose a whole board.
I am suggesting a "DIY" process that can be done in a home environment, not in a Lab environment with a proper rework station with all the bells and whistles.

This simple outline takes into consideration:
1. Solders used in BGA's need much lower temperature, so much so that BGA chips can sometimes be detached by their own heat during normal operation at slightly elevated temperatures.
2. Not using a home instrument that heats the chip thru CONVECTION like blowing hot air. Localised heating would be difficult to achieve.
3. Heating thru RADIATION is preferrable. Localised heating can be performed with precision using one of those butane-micro-mini-soldering-torches/pens. Use controlled movements of the tool to evenly heat the chip up to the correct temperature.
4. The investment is tiny compared to the potential reward.

Like science, logical un-common sense could be useful.
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post #4450 of 5016 Old 07-05-2018, 10:38 AM
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I am looking at a Marantz 6011 from Accessories4Less. Is it possible to set it up as 5.1.6 instead of 7.1.4? Even if I use a 2nd receiver? I ask as behind my MLP is an area that will ultimately end up being a bar making 7.1.4 tricky.
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post #4451 of 5016 Old 07-05-2018, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by HarpNinja View Post
I am looking at a Marantz 6011 from Accessories4Less. Is it possible to set it up as 5.1.6 instead of 7.1.4? Even if I use a 2nd receiver? I ask as behind my MLP is an area that will ultimately end up being a bar making 7.1.4 tricky.
No. Only the current "flagship" models (Denon X8500H and Marantz AV8805) can do more than 4 Height speakers.
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post #4452 of 5016 Old 07-05-2018, 11:13 AM
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No. Only the current "flagship" models (Denon X8500H and Marantz AV8805) can do more than 4 Height speakers.
So, for a 7.1.4 set up with a projector, is there any reason why I shouldn't get the 6011? Eventually, I'd like to get a 4k HDR projector, and this should work with that. My room is a great room and I can't imagine going beyond 7.2.4.

Thanks!
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post #4453 of 5016 Old 07-05-2018, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by HarpNinja View Post
So, for a 7.1.4 set up with a projector, is there any reason why I shouldn't get the 6011? Eventually, I'd like to get a 4k HDR projector, and this should work with that. My room is a great room and I can't imagine going beyond 7.2.4.

Thanks!
Will you use the features of that receiver right now, or are you only thinking about it to be prepared for your 4k upgrade?

If you will use some of the features right now, and the SR6011 has the features you want, I think it's fine now.

If you've already got a receiver that currently does what you need, then hold off on buying a receiver until you buy a 4k display. Because if you wait long enough you might be able to get HDMI 2.1 (which will probably be out on some products in 2019, maybe 2020 for some products). It will bring new features like quick media switching, quick frame transport, variable refresh rate, etc. It will be better for people who game (VRR) and for people who switch sources on their receiver a lot and don't like how long HDCP handshakes take (QMS + QFT together deliver this improvement).

But if you don't have any receiver right now, or if you have an ancient and/or low-end receiver that limits your audio setup, then waiting for HDMI 2.1 probably doesn't make sense for you. If you have a receiver right now that does everything you want except 4k and Atmos, then you can decide if waiting on Atmos is worth getting HDMI 2.1 improvements, or if you'd rather have Atmos ASAP and don't care too much about HDMI 2.1.

SR6011 is a 2016 model but the good news is you won't be left behind for Dolby Vision or Hybrid Log Gamma: https://marantz.custhelp.com/app/ans...-compatibility
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post #4454 of 5016 Old 07-05-2018, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by HarpNinja View Post
So, for a 7.1.4 set up with a projector, is there any reason why I shouldn't get the 6011? Eventually, I'd like to get a 4k HDR projector, and this should work with that. My room is a great room and I can't imagine going beyond 7.2.4.

Thanks!
Nope, unless there is a feature on the SR7011 that you would like (eg. Zone 3, Custom 2CH settings, HEOS module, 2 line display on front panel, HD Radio, Learning remote).
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post #4455 of 5016 Old 07-05-2018, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by DonoMan View Post
Will you use the features of that receiver right now, or are you only thinking about it to be prepared for your 4k upgrade?

If you will use some of the features right now, and the SR6011 has the features you want, I think it's fine now.

If you've already got a receiver that currently does what you need, then hold off on buying a receiver until you buy a 4k display. Because if you wait long enough you might be able to get HDMI 2.1 (which will probably be out on some products in 2019, maybe 2020 for some products). It will bring new features like quick media switching, quick frame transport, variable refresh rate, etc. It will be better for people who game (VRR) and for people who switch sources on their receiver a lot and don't like how long HDCP handshakes take (QMS + QFT together deliver this improvement).

But if you don't have any receiver right now, or if you have an ancient and/or low-end receiver that limits your audio setup, then waiting for HDMI 2.1 probably doesn't make sense for you. If you have a receiver right now that does everything you want except 4k and Atmos, then you can decide if waiting on Atmos is worth getting HDMI 2.1 improvements, or if you'd rather have Atmos ASAP and don't care too much about HDMI 2.1.

SR6011 is a 2016 model but the good news is you won't be left behind for Dolby Vision or Hybrid Log Gamma: https://marantz.custhelp.com/app/ans...-compatibility
I am wired for 7.1.4, but only run 5.1.2 on a Denon 2200. My set up is definitely budget oriented. My projector is an Epson 3500, and I would eventually want a projector that did HDR...wobble 4k isn't a deal breaker.

I don't use VR and rarely switch HDMI. I use my universal remote to turn the receiver on to what I will use, so don't switch.
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post #4456 of 5016 Old 07-05-2018, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by HarpNinja View Post
I am wired for 7.1.4, but only run 5.1.2 on a Denon 2200. My set up is definitely budget oriented. My projector is an Epson 3500, and I would eventually want a projector that did HDR...wobble 4k isn't a deal breaker.

I don't use VR and rarely switch HDMI. I use my universal remote to turn the receiver on to what I will use, so don't switch.
I don't mean to sound pushy but I think you misunderstood what I said so I'd like to clarify. If you still aren't interested in what I'm saying, that's fine. Just want to make sure I'm getting the correct point across for you to make a proper decision.

I'm not talking VR. VRR is "variable refresh rate" and it's like VESA/AMD FreeSync or Nvidia GSync on PCs where if your source drops below 60fps, your display can slow down in sync with your source so you don't see judder or tearing artifacts. It makes gaming look a lot smoother when your PC or gaming console can't keep up with your display's frame rate. Many games do drop frames on both modern gaming consoles and even high-end gaming PCs.

And when I talk about QMS and QFT, if you want to see what I mean, go turn on your Blu-ray player and your cable box/streaming device. Switch between them on your receiver. Your screen will probably go blank for around 5 seconds. HDMI 2.1 will supposedly reduce this delay significantly.

Not everyone games, not everyone switches sources on their receiver often, and the delay doesn't bother everyone. If you're in this camp, that's fine (and is better for you because you will have no "need" to wait for the new tech). Just wanted to make sure that I explained these points properly.

If none of this is necessary to you and the SR6011 meets your needs then go ahead and buy it anytime.

EDIT to note: Just to make sure you're aware, SR6011 only has 9 amps built in. You'll need an external 2+ channel amp to get to 11 channels.
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post #4457 of 5016 Old 07-05-2018, 11:46 AM
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I don't mean to sound pushy but I think you misunderstood what I said so I'd like to clarify. If you still aren't interested in what I'm saying, that's fine. Just want to make sure I'm getting the correct point across for you to make a proper decision.

I'm not talking VR. VRR is "variable refresh rate" and it's like VESA/AMD FreeSync or Nvidia GSync on PCs where if your source drops below 60fps, your display can slow down in sync with your source so you don't see judder or tearing artifacts. It makes gaming look a lot smoother when your PC or gaming console can't keep up with your display's frame rate. Many games do drop frames on both modern gaming consoles and even high-end gaming PCs.

And when I talk about QMS and QFT, if you want to see what I mean, go turn on your Blu-ray player and your cable box/streaming device. Switch between them on your receiver. Your screen will probably go blank for around 5 seconds. HDMI 2.1 will supposedly reduce this delay significantly.

Not everyone games, not everyone switches sources on their receiver often, and the delay doesn't bother everyone. If you're in this camp, that's fine (and is better for you because you will have no "need" to wait for the new tech). Just wanted to make sure that I explained these points properly.

If none of this is necessary to you and the SR6011 meets your needs then go ahead and buy it anytime.
Thanks for clarifying, as I totally misunderstood your post. My son uses an Xbox One S hooked up to the receiver. So you're saying the new HDMI would make that run smoother too? Thanks!
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post #4458 of 5016 Old 07-05-2018, 11:48 AM
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Thanks for clarifying, as I totally misunderstood your post. My son uses an Xbox One S hooked up to the receiver. So you're saying the new HDMI would make that run smoother too? Thanks!
That I cannot answer. While the improvements would be useful for Xbox or Playstation, we don't know if Microsoft or Sony will be able to add those features to the existing consoles with a firmware update, or if these improvements will only be useful when the "Xbox Two" or "PS5" come out. (Edit: They could also choose to release new revisions of the existing consoles with new HDMI chips if those turn out to be required, but I think this is unlikely. If they did go this route, you would have to spend money to get the improvement. But that is probably the least likely route.)

But in general, if you expect to buy new game consoles in the future, then HDMI 2.1 will be useful to you. Or your son, anyway. How much the new features will improve the gaming experience depends on the specific game. The worse the performance of a game, the more VRR will help improve the experience. Some games do perform quite poorly, even on consoles where you might expect the "standardized hardware" would enable developers to prevent that situation. But that's what you get with low-to-mid grade hardware which is what consoles have.

It may get added to PS4 or XBOne, but I don't know.

Edit: If VRR in particular did happen to interest you / pique your curiosity, you can look up what people say about FreeSync for PCs, because FreeSync and VRR are almost the same standard. Nvidia Gsync is a competing standard that works similarly but under the hood works a bit differently. But it still accomplishes the same task.
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post #4459 of 5016 Old 07-06-2018, 06:33 AM
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This is the most temperamental receiver I've ever had. How is it that the HDMI ports can't just all be the same? The ****ing SNES mini classic works on like 2 of the ports, the Cisco cable box worked perfectly for months now refuses to work on the sat/cbl input, yet every other source works on that input and the visa versa. I love the sound on this thing but the HDMI input is so garbage, even compared to receivers that cost 1/3 of it.
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post #4460 of 5016 Old 07-06-2018, 11:23 AM
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An SR-7011 is on the way to me. I needed to replace my Yamaha RX-Z7 since it will not pass 4K and I just got a 4K TV. My main room is a 5.1 surround set up. I want to use Zone 2 to power a pair of stereo speakers and send a signal via the Zone 2 HDMI output to the TV in my bedroom. Zone 3 will be for a pair of speakers in my living room. That's how I have the Yamaha set up though it only has Zone 2 video via Component connections. I've already run a quality HDMI cable from the receiver area in the family room to the TV in the bedroom.

I use a Logitech Harmony remote in the family room controlling zone 1 and a different Logitech remote in the bedroom controlling zone 2. I've looked at the Marantz remote that comes with the SR-7011 as well as the buttons on the front panel of the receiver and it appears that you have to tell the receiver which zone you want to control with the remote each time you want to send a signal to a certain zone.

Currently if my wife is watching TV in the bedroom and I'm in the family room watching TV it's no problem to use the Logitech remotes to control their respective zones with out telling the receiver which zone it should control. Is that also possible with the Marantz SR-7011? With the Yamaha, you set the remote to control a specific zone so once you do that it only controls the zone it was set to control.

There is an IR pickup unit in the bedroom and an IR blaster in front of the receiver so getting the signal to the receiver is no problem.

Jeff
Sony XBR-77A1E TV, Sony UBP-X1000ES Blu-ray player, Marantz SR-7011 Home Theater Receiver
JBL L300 Speakers, Technics SL-1650 Turntable, Technics SL-P3 CD player, Teac A-6600 Reel to Reel tape deck,
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post #4461 of 5016 Old 07-06-2018, 05:24 PM
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An SR-7011 is on the way to me. I needed to replace my Yamaha RX-Z7 since it will not pass 4K and I just got a 4K TV. My main room is a 5.1 surround set up. I want to use Zone 2 to power a pair of stereo speakers and send a signal via the Zone 2 HDMI output to the TV in my bedroom. Zone 3 will be for a pair of speakers in my living room. That's how I have the Yamaha set up though it only has Zone 2 video via Component connections. I've already run a quality HDMI cable from the receiver area in the family room to the TV in the bedroom.

I use a Logitech Harmony remote in the family room controlling zone 1 and a different Logitech remote in the bedroom controlling zone 2. I've looked at the Marantz remote that comes with the SR-7011 as well as the buttons on the front panel of the receiver and it appears that you have to tell the receiver which zone you want to control with the remote each time you want to send a signal to a certain zone.

Currently if my wife is watching TV in the bedroom and I'm in the family room watching TV it's no problem to use the Logitech remotes to control their respective zones with out telling the receiver which zone it should control. Is that also possible with the Marantz SR-7011? With the Yamaha, you set the remote to control a specific zone so once you do that it only controls the zone it was set to control.

There is an IR pickup unit in the bedroom and an IR blaster in front of the receiver so getting the signal to the receiver is no problem.
The Marantz remote control can be set for a specific zone. Additionally, the 2016 Marantz Remote app can be used as well.
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post #4462 of 5016 Old 07-07-2018, 06:12 PM
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Hello everyone. I purchased a Marantz SR7011 roughly a month ago, calibrated using Audyssey, and now I'm having issues with dialogue getting muffled. It worked perfectly fine for the first 3-ish weeks, until I noticed the front left channel would occasionally sound like a pillow was in front of it. Now I'm getting the same problem with all 3 front speakers.

When I set it up I labeled every banana connector accordingly and made sure everything was perfect. Knowing that, I still went back there and checked every connector on the receiver and all the speakers. I swapped cables with different speakers (FL, FR & C) and the problem still persists.

99% of our viewing is used thru the CBL/SAT input (DirecTV) and the Blu-Ray input (PS4). Both equally frustrating for different reasons. While watching DirecTV, it's just a hot mess all around. Cutting in and out thru all 3 front channels. Same with watching Blu-ray disks and movies using VUDU. However, HBO NOW (via PS4/Blu-ray input) refuses to use the center channel completely, and I get all my dialogue (if any) thru my two towers.

Lastly, I get a buzz sound thru (what sounds like) my front tweeters when deep prolonged bass sounds occur. Not sure if the issues are connected somehow.

I have a 7:1 setup.

Polk Monitor 70 (Towers)
Polk CSiA6 (Center)
Polk RTiA3 (Sides)
Polk FXiA6 (Rears)
SVS PC13-Ultra (Sub)

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you guys and gals.
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post #4463 of 5016 Old 07-08-2018, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoopaFly View Post
Hello everyone. I purchased a Marantz SR7011 roughly a month ago, calibrated using Audyssey, and now I'm having issues with dialogue getting muffled. It worked perfectly fine for the first 3-ish weeks, until I noticed the front left channel would occasionally sound like a pillow was in front of it. Now I'm getting the same problem with all 3 front speakers.



When I set it up I labeled every banana connector accordingly and made sure everything was perfect. Knowing that, I still went back there and checked every connector on the receiver and all the speakers. I swapped cables with different speakers (FL, FR & C) and the problem still persists.



99% of our viewing is used thru the CBL/SAT input (DirecTV) and the Blu-Ray input (PS4). Both equally frustrating for different reasons. While watching DirecTV, it's just a hot mess all around. Cutting in and out thru all 3 front channels. Same with watching Blu-ray disks and movies using VUDU. However, HBO NOW (via PS4/Blu-ray input) refuses to use the center channel completely, and I get all my dialogue (if any) thru my two towers.



Lastly, I get a buzz sound thru (what sounds like) my front tweeters when deep prolonged bass sounds occur. Not sure if the issues are connected somehow.



I have a 7:1 setup.



Polk Monitor 70 (Towers)

Polk CSiA6 (Center)

Polk RTiA3 (Sides)

Polk FXiA6 (Rears)

SVS PC13-Ultra (Sub)



Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you guys and gals.


Have you tried a factory reset?

Klipsch Reference Premiere: 4 x RP-280's, 1 x RP 450C and dual R-115W's
Marantz 7011 AVR
LG OLED B6
Apple TV 4K
PlayStation Pro
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post #4464 of 5016 Old 07-08-2018, 03:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoopaFly View Post
Hello everyone. I purchased a Marantz SR7011 roughly a month ago, calibrated using Audyssey, and now I'm having issues with dialogue getting muffled. It worked perfectly fine for the first 3-ish weeks, until I noticed the front left channel would occasionally sound like a pillow was in front of it. Now I'm getting the same problem with all 3 front speakers.

When I set it up I labeled every banana connector accordingly and made sure everything was perfect. Knowing that, I still went back there and checked every connector on the receiver and all the speakers. I swapped cables with different speakers (FL, FR & C) and the problem still persists.

99% of our viewing is used thru the CBL/SAT input (DirecTV) and the Blu-Ray input (PS4). Both equally frustrating for different reasons. While watching DirecTV, it's just a hot mess all around. Cutting in and out thru all 3 front channels. Same with watching Blu-ray disks and movies using VUDU. However, HBO NOW (via PS4/Blu-ray input) refuses to use the center channel completely, and I get all my dialogue (if any) thru my two towers.

Lastly, I get a buzz sound thru (what sounds like) my front tweeters when deep prolonged bass sounds occur. Not sure if the issues are connected somehow.

I have a 7:1 setup.

Polk Monitor 70 (Towers)
Polk CSiA6 (Center)
Polk RTiA3 (Sides)
Polk FXiA6 (Rears)
SVS PC13-Ultra (Sub)

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you guys and gals.
First try doing a "soft reset" by simply powering off the AVR and unplugging the power cord for 10 minutes. If no joy, then as suggested in the above post, factory reset the AVR and run the setup again.

Did you try swapping the SL/SR with the FL/FR to determine if your speakers have gone bad?
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post #4465 of 5016 Old 07-08-2018, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
First try doing a "soft reset" by simply powering off the AVR and unplugging the power cord for 10 minutes. If no joy, then as suggested in the above post, factory reset the AVR and run the setup again.

Did you try swapping the SL/SR with the FL/FR to determine if your speakers have gone bad?
No I have not. I'll try that this afternoon. The towers are a few years old, but the center channel is newer than the receiver is. Still, I'll give it a whirl. Same with the "soft" and factory resets. I do have a question about that though. I've read other posts suggesting that and just ignored them because my receiver is still very new. Should that even be a factor, and IF it fixes the problem, will I have to do this regularly in the future?

Thank you for your feedback. I really appreciate it.
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post #4466 of 5016 Old 07-08-2018, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SoopaFly View Post
No I have not. I'll try that this afternoon. The towers are a few years old, but the center channel is newer than the receiver is. Still, I'll give it a whirl. Same with the "soft" and factory resets. I do have a question about that though. I've read other posts suggesting that and just ignored them because my receiver is still very new. Should that even be a factor, and IF it fixes the problem, will I have to do this regularly in the future?

Thank you for your feedback. I really appreciate it.
A reset is suggested at any point the AVR is acting up ... doesn't matter if it's new or it's old. Just because an AVR is older doesn't mean it's going to start requiring resetting.
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post #4467 of 5016 Old 07-10-2018, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoopaFly View Post
Hello everyone. I purchased a Marantz SR7011 roughly a month ago, calibrated using Audyssey, and now I'm having issues with dialogue getting muffled. It worked perfectly fine for the first 3-ish weeks, until I noticed the front left channel would occasionally sound like a pillow was in front of it. Now I'm getting the same problem with all 3 front speakers.

When I set it up I labeled every banana connector accordingly and made sure everything was perfect. Knowing that, I still went back there and checked every connector on the receiver and all the speakers. I swapped cables with different speakers (FL, FR & C) and the problem still persists.

99% of our viewing is used thru the CBL/SAT input (DirecTV) and the Blu-Ray input (PS4). Both equally frustrating for different reasons. While watching DirecTV, it's just a hot mess all around. Cutting in and out thru all 3 front channels. Same with watching Blu-ray disks and movies using VUDU. However, HBO NOW (via PS4/Blu-ray input) refuses to use the center channel completely, and I get all my dialogue (if any) thru my two towers.

Lastly, I get a buzz sound thru (what sounds like) my front tweeters when deep prolonged bass sounds occur. Not sure if the issues are connected somehow.

I have a 7:1 setup.

Polk Monitor 70 (Towers)
Polk CSiA6 (Center)
Polk RTiA3 (Sides)
Polk FXiA6 (Rears)
SVS PC13-Ultra (Sub)

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you guys and gals.

I might be the "LOOSE CONTACT INSIDE THE SPEAKER BINDING POST" issue as discussed for example in posts 3486, 3707 or 4352 in this forum.
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post #4468 of 5016 Old 07-11-2018, 08:54 AM
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So when is the AirPlay 2 update coming out for the 7011?

Klipsch Reference Premiere: 4 x RP-280's, 1 x RP 450C and dual R-115W's
Marantz 7011 AVR
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post #4469 of 5016 Old 07-11-2018, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by dianebrat View Post
You can find several hundred existing threads on why bi-amping in the way you're mentioning is a waste of time and energy, I don't have the link at hand but I know it's been discussed in this voluminous thread before.

Here's a good reference post.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...l#post51262753
I eventually bought an SR7010, tried the bi-amp option and did not hear any noticeable difference: no better depth, imaging, ease/flow; no better anything. You were right. This is quite a different experience with several other bi-amp situations before this (with two seperate power amplifiers driving the B&W's or other speakers). But it is what it is.
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post #4470 of 5016 Old 07-11-2018, 11:06 AM
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So when is the AirPlay 2 update coming out for the 7011?
Not aware of a release date although not likely until all of the 2018 models have been released, so perhaps late fall.
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