*Official* Marantz 2016 NR-1607, SR-5011/6011/7011 owner's thread - Page 165 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4921 of 4949 Old 06-19-2019, 01:38 AM
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Timing seems to be the real problem. If I use the TV's remote and have audio switching on, then the TV comes on and a couple of seconds later the Marantz receiver comes on and the sound is fine. I have not found a way to delay the powering on of the receiver in the Harmony remote software. I'm using Harmony Remote software 7.70. The remote is a Logitec Remote Harmony One. If there is a way to delay the power up of the receiver in the software I'd appreciate it if you could direct me on this.

If the Marantz audio switching is off, the sound starts at the receiver but switches to the TV.

Jeff
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post #4922 of 4949 Old 06-19-2019, 03:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Runch Machine View Post
Timing seems to be the real problem. If I use the TV's remote and have audio switching on, then the TV comes on and a couple of seconds later the Marantz receiver comes on and the sound is fine. I have not found a way to delay the powering on of the receiver in the Harmony remote software. I'm using Harmony Remote software 7.70. The remote is a Logitec Remote Harmony One. If there is a way to delay the power up of the receiver in the software I'd appreciate it if you could direct me on this.

If the Marantz audio switching is off, the sound starts at the receiver but switches to the TV.
Contact the Logitech support staff and they can easily assist with setting up the delay on the Harmony remote.
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post #4923 of 4949 Old 06-19-2019, 09:05 AM
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last night, received a firmware update on my bedroom NR1607, thanks to Marantz for continuing to support and improve the 3 year old boy!

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post #4924 of 4949 Old 06-19-2019, 08:45 PM
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Also firmware update for my SR5011...it is cool that they are still supporting their kit.
I do wonder what this latest update does. Nothing that jumps out at me.

TV: Samsung 60KS8000, AVR: Marantz SR5011, Speakers: front/Paradigm Prestige 15B bookshelf, center/Paradigm Prestige 45C, surround/Paradigm Atom, sub/SVS SB3000, DVD: LG UBK 90 UHD DVD Player, Remote: Logitech Harmony Ultimate Home
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post #4925 of 4949 Old 06-20-2019, 04:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Runch Machine View Post
Timing seems to be the real problem. If I use the TV's remote and have audio switching on, then the TV comes on and a couple of seconds later the Marantz receiver comes on and the sound is fine. I have not found a way to delay the powering on of the receiver in the Harmony remote software. I'm using Harmony Remote software 7.70. The remote is a Logitec Remote Harmony One. If there is a way to delay the power up of the receiver in the software I'd appreciate it if you could direct me on this.

If the Marantz audio switching is off, the sound starts at the receiver but switches to the TV.
I have a Harmony One also - start software - pick an activity - settings - bottom option should be "review the order in which devices are powered on"

You can also go into the individual devices - settings and change the "delays"

Good luck!

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post #4926 of 4949 Old 06-20-2019, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob brennan View Post
I have a Harmony One also - start software - pick an activity - settings - bottom option should be "review the order in which devices are powered on"

You can also go into the individual devices - settings and change the "delays"

Good luck!
Bob, I've looked at the options in the remote settings under the receiver and I don't know which one I should change so that the receiver is turned on a bit later than the TV. I previously made sure under Activities that the TV is turned on before the receiver but the remote turns on the receiver immediately after it turns on the TV. Under devices Receiver, I changed Inter Device Delay but that did nothing. None of the other options delayed the amount of time that the receiver was turned on after the TV was turned on. Do you have any suggestions?

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post #4927 of 4949 Old 06-21-2019, 04:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Runch Machine View Post
Bob, I've looked at the options in the remote settings under the receiver and I don't know which one I should change so that the receiver is turned on a bit later than the TV. I previously made sure under Activities that the TV is turned on before the receiver but the remote turns on the receiver immediately after it turns on the TV. Under devices Receiver, I changed Inter Device Delay but that did nothing. None of the other options delayed the amount of time that the receiver was turned on after the TV was turned on. Do you have any suggestions?
this might have something to do with CEC on the TV (see below). If that doesn't work I might post of the Marantz SR7013 forum that has a lot more traffic - they are very similar receivers! Good Luck!

What is CEC on my TV?
Consumer Electronics Control (CEC) is a feature of HDMI designed to allow users to command and control devices connected through HDMI by using only one remote control. For example, by using the remote control of a television set to control a set-top box and/or DVD player.

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post #4928 of 4949 Old 06-22-2019, 04:51 AM
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Hi!
my config:

Tv LG 55c8
Marantz SR6010
Ps4
himedia q10 pro
firetv stick

no audio ARC no CEC command
I have tried several HDMI cables. but no result
now I'm using a 2.0b premium certified cable

I ran a microcontroller reset, but no result.

if I connect the ps4 directly to the TV the CEC commands work normally
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post #4929 of 4949 Old 06-22-2019, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maurizio Arci View Post
Hi!
my config:

Tv LG 55c8
Marantz SR6010
Ps4
himedia q10 pro
firetv stick

no audio ARC no CEC command
I have tried several HDMI cables. but no result
now I'm using a 2.0b premium certified cable

I ran a microcontroller reset, but no result.

if I connect the ps4 directly to the TV the CEC commands work normally
Oops! Wrong thread. This is the 2016 Owner's thread which discusses the SR6011. Please repost in the 2015 Owner's thread which discusses the SR6010.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...-s-thread.html
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post #4930 of 4949 Old 06-22-2019, 05:09 PM
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sorry, right thread, wrong model. my Marantz is SR6011
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post #4931 of 4949 Old 06-22-2019, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maurizio Arci View Post
sorry, right thread, wrong model. my Marantz is SR6011
HDMI Control = ON (p. 189 Owner's manual)

ARC = ON (p. 190 Owner's manual)

If still no joy, use a universal remote (eg. Harmony) for power on and an optical cable from the TV --> AVR to pass audio from TV back to AVR.
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post #4932 of 4949 Old 06-22-2019, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
HDMI Control = ON (p. 189 Owner's manual)

ARC = ON (p. 190 Owner's manual)

If still no joy, use a universal remote (eg. Harmony) for power on and an optical cable from the TV --> AVR to pass audio from TV back to AVR.
I'll Use Home Assistant to power on and off the sr6011. I will find a way to overcome the problem. but it seems incredible that there is neither a reason nor an official solution.

without a solution to the problem the convenience of the CEC and the ARC is lost
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post #4933 of 4949 Old 06-23-2019, 02:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maurizio Arci View Post
I'll Use Home Assistant to power on and off the sr6011. I will find a way to overcome the problem. but it seems incredible that there is neither a reason nor an official solution.

without a solution to the problem the convenience of the CEC and the ARC is lost
HDMI issues have existed ever since HDMI was first introduced and exist with all brands of devices which is why TV installers more often simply connect an optical cable from the TV to the AVR.
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post #4934 of 4949 Old 06-23-2019, 05:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maurizio Arci View Post
I'll Use Home Assistant to power on and off the sr6011. I will find a way to overcome the problem. but it seems incredible that there is neither a reason nor an official solution.

without a solution to the problem the convenience of the CEC and the ARC is lost
You've now experienced what most of the rest of us do at one time or another, ARC/CEC works fine until one day it doesn't, and no amount of fixing will fix it until one day 6-12 months later after changing nothing it will work again, this will be the legacy or CEC/ARC.

I long ago gave up this fight, it's no big deal in my house to just grab the right remote out of the basket
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post #4935 of 4949 Old 06-23-2019, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maurizio Arci View Post
I'll Use Home Assistant to power on and off the sr6011. I will find a way to overcome the problem. but it seems incredible that there is neither a reason nor an official solution.

without a solution to the problem the convenience of the CEC and the ARC is lost
Perhaps you know this but just in case, make sure you are using the TV's HDMI-2 for ARC, it's the only one that works with ARC.
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post #4936 of 4949 Old 07-02-2019, 12:55 PM
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Anyone ever come up with any sort of change list for the latest firmware update?
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post #4937 of 4949 Old 07-11-2019, 01:38 PM
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It looks that I also got a 7011 with random buzzing and distorted sound. Mostly surround rears, but sometimes even the front left. Really strange since fronts and centers are on an external amp (Vincent SAV-P200). Bought my 7011 from Germany and live in Sweden so all official support will be messy I guess.

Probably its 2 different problems. Rears are affected by bad construction in Marantz speaker terminals, as described earlier in this thread, and front left is affected by something else. All I can say is that it sucks getballe.

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post #4938 of 4949 Old 07-18-2019, 04:53 AM
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I think I know the answer but I have to ask. A thunderstorm took out my receiver. It will not power up, is there a fuse I can replace or is the unit toast? Also is it worth fixing or time for a new AVR?
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post #4939 of 4949 Old 07-18-2019, 09:39 AM
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I think I know the answer but I have to ask. A thunderstorm took out my receiver. It will not power up, is there a fuse I can replace or is the unit toast? Also is it worth fixing or time for a new AVR?
Likely toast. You don't mention which model you have, however, your home owner's warranty may replace it with something more current.
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post #4940 of 4949 Old 07-18-2019, 10:54 AM
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Likely toast. You don't mention which model you have, however, your home owner's warranty may replace it with something more current.
It's a 5011 but I think I have an extended warrantee on it. Lost the cable modem and router as well. The cable modem was covered (business account) the router was replaced this morning. I have dual subs I hope there ok but no way to test them right now. They light up but so did the router.
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post #4941 of 4949 Old 07-18-2019, 06:10 PM
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Hello,

I currently have the SR7011 and typically run it with a 5.1.2 setup. Occasionally we have to use headphones (Sennheiser HD 598 Cs) for night viewing. Right now I'm using the headphone output on the front of the receiver with a splitter to run 2 pairs of headphones simultaneously. I'm considering switching to a headphone amplifier to see if it improves audio quality.

From reading through the thread, it looks like the best way to set this up would be to use the zone 2 pre-outs to a headphone amp with at least 2 outputs and mute the audio in zone 1 while using the headphones.

Is there a better way to set this up or is that likely to be the best configuration for the best quality audio?
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post #4942 of 4949 Old 07-18-2019, 10:23 PM
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Hello,

I currently have the SR7011 and typically run it with a 5.1.2 setup. Occasionally we have to use headphones (Sennheiser HD 598 Cs) for night viewing. Right now I'm using the headphone output on the front of the receiver with a splitter to run 2 pairs of headphones simultaneously. I'm considering switching to a headphone amplifier to see if it improves audio quality.

From reading through the thread, it looks like the best way to set this up would be to use the zone 2 pre-outs to a headphone amp with at least 2 outputs and mute the audio in zone 1 while using the headphones.

Is there a better way to set this up or is that likely to be the best configuration for the best quality audio?
In order for the HDMI audio to pass to Zone 2, either the HDMI source itself must be stereo, or if not, you'd have to use the ALL ZONE STEREO surround mode.
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post #4943 of 4949 Old 07-19-2019, 05:00 PM
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In order for the HDMI audio to pass to Zone 2, either the HDMI source itself must be stereo, or if not, you'd have to use the ALL ZONE STEREO surround mode.
Thanks. Is that likely going to be the best way to feed a signal to a headphone amp without losing sound quality? I had read other users have used the front L/R pre-outs to feed a headphone amp but I feel like that would end up in a significant amount of lost sound because the center, bass, surround, and height channels would be lost whereas if I understand it properly, all that other information would be downmixed into stereo using zone 2 and All Zone Stereo.
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post #4944 of 4949 Old 07-19-2019, 06:44 PM
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Thanks. Is that likely going to be the best way to feed a signal to a headphone amp without losing sound quality? I had read other users have used the front L/R pre-outs to feed a headphone amp but I feel like that would end up in a significant amount of lost sound because the center, bass, surround, and height channels would be lost whereas if I understand it properly, all that other information would be downmixed into stereo using zone 2 and All Zone Stereo.
Correct when using ALL ZONE STEREO, however, there is no down mixing when playing a 5.1 source, rather the source must be stereo.
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post #4945 of 4949 Old 07-20-2019, 07:21 AM
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Correct when using ALL ZONE STEREO, however, there is no down mixing when playing a 5.1 source, rather the source must be stereo.
Interesting. So if I'm using the headphone out on the front of the receiver while playing a 5.1 or Atmos source, are my headphones just receiving the front L/R channels or does the receiver perform downmixing for the headphone out?
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post #4946 of 4949 Old 07-20-2019, 11:28 AM
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Interesting. So if I'm using the headphone out on the front of the receiver while playing a 5.1 or Atmos source, are my headphones just receiving the front L/R channels or does the receiver perform downmixing for the headphone out?
It downmixes the audio to the headphone out, but at the same time muting the surround speakers.
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post #4947 of 4949 Old 07-21-2019, 08:21 AM
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Thanks. I started doing a lot of testing over the weekend in advance of obtaining a headphone amp and have been very surprised by what I'm hearing. Playing stereo sources through my receiver; with audio files over the network through the HEOS app, or Youtube via my Roku Ultra or Sony UBP-X700, or media files on flash drive through the Roku sounds significantly worse than playing the same files or videos through my cheap windows laptop, Samsung Tab S5E, or SanDisk clip jam mp3 player. Using the same pair of HD598Cs for all testing of course. A significant amount of the lower end and mid-bass is missing when connecting my headphones to the receiver (without any splitters) vs connecting to other sources.

My initial thoughts would be that I've configured something wrong but configuration options for headphone use seem limited to a few EQ settings that didn't amount to any noticeable improvements after playing with them.

Going to test zone2 pre-out > Monoprice Liquid Spark > HD598Cs later this week to see if that makes any noticeable difference before I invest in any more expensive equipment.
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post #4948 of 4949 Old Yesterday, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniel665544 View Post
Thanks. I started doing a lot of testing over the weekend in advance of obtaining a headphone amp and have been very surprised by what I'm hearing. Playing stereo sources through my receiver; with audio files over the network through the HEOS app, or Youtube via my Roku Ultra or Sony UBP-X700, or media files on flash drive through the Roku sounds significantly worse than playing the same files or videos through my cheap windows laptop, Samsung Tab S5E, or SanDisk clip jam mp3 player. Using the same pair of HD598Cs for all testing of course. A significant amount of the lower end and mid-bass is missing when connecting my headphones to the receiver (without any splitters) vs connecting to other sources.

My initial thoughts would be that I've configured something wrong but configuration options for headphone use seem limited to a few EQ settings that didn't amount to any noticeable improvements after playing with them.

Going to test zone2 pre-out > Monoprice Liquid Spark > HD598Cs later this week to see if that makes any noticeable difference before I invest in any more expensive equipment.
I've always kept my movies and music separate. Movies on my living room HT setup, music on my tower PC in my computer room.

That said, one time I DID try listening to a movie on my Fostex TH-X00 Purpleheart headphones through the front headphone jack on my 6011......and was quite underwhelmed :/

Streaming Tidal HiFi on my PC, with a Schiit Modi Multibit DAC and a Monoprice THX 789 amp is infinitely better, IMO. Though I suggest Electrostats always, if you can do it. Of all the headphones in my collection, my Stax electrostats are clearly superior.

TCL 55P607, OPPO UDP-203, 4K Fire TV, Marantz 6011, Rotel 1075 (Atmos)
DefTech SM 65 (X7), SVS PB16 Ultra (X2), SVS Prime Elevation (X4)
Headphone rig: PC-> Schiit Wyrd ->Schiit Modi Multibit ->Stax SRM-353X ->THX AAA 789
Headphones: Stax SR-207, Stax SR-L700, M1060, TH-X00 Purpleheart, HD600, HD6XX, etc
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post #4949 of 4949 Old Yesterday, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by daniel665544 View Post
Thanks. I started doing a lot of testing over the weekend in advance of obtaining a headphone amp and have been very surprised by what I'm hearing. Playing stereo sources through my receiver; with audio files over the network through the HEOS app, or Youtube via my Roku Ultra or Sony UBP-X700, or media files on flash drive through the Roku sounds significantly worse than playing the same files or videos through my cheap windows laptop, Samsung Tab S5E, or SanDisk clip jam mp3 player. Using the same pair of HD598Cs for all testing of course. A significant amount of the lower end and mid-bass is missing when connecting my headphones to the receiver (without any splitters) vs connecting to other sources.

My initial thoughts would be that I've configured something wrong but configuration options for headphone use seem limited to a few EQ settings that didn't amount to any noticeable improvements after playing with them.

Going to test zone2 pre-out > Monoprice Liquid Spark > HD598Cs later this week to see if that makes any noticeable difference before I invest in any more expensive equipment.
I did some more testing before adding an amp to the mix. I originally thought it was the low end that was missing or being filtered out when I plugged in headphones but some heavy bass tracks showed that was not the case. The bass sounded and felt great (for headphones). It's the mid range and mid-bass that is performing poorly with the receiver's phono jack.

Using zone-2 pre-out with fixed volume on the receiver at 0db, output to the Monoprice Liquid Spark was interesting. Definitely a different and better sound although not a mind-blowing clearly superior one. My play time was limited today though so I'll have to spend more time with it and see what adjustments I can make.
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