The "Official" Yamaha RX-A1060, RX-A2060 and RX-A3060 AVENTAGE AVR Thread - Page 113 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3361 of 7127 Old 02-26-2017, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jm10 View Post
Hi guys... I recently purchased a 3060. I am still in learning mode. While looking at the PEQ results I found a doubled parameter in PEQ...62.5 Hz is repeated for the Right speaker only (see image). Is this normal/expected?
Normal
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post #3362 of 7127 Old 02-27-2017, 12:29 AM
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Hooking up to Samsung 2016 TV

After 20 years putting up with an old HiFi stack system, I treated myself to a shiny new Yahama RX - A1060. It's working fine with most inputs but has confused me when trying to connect it to my Samsung UE49K9000 TV.

In short, when I plug in the HDMI cable into the ARC socket on the TV and plug it into the HMMI ARC socket on the Amp, I don't hear any sound through the connected speakers at all. If I plug in an optical cable from the TV to the Amp, it works fine. Tuner is also outputting to all speakers so I don't think it's a speaker issue.

I'm fairly new to all this HDMI stuff and suspect it's (ahem) 'user error' - something really obvious - is there anyone out there that point me in the right direction? I scrolled through all the various input options on the amp, just in case I'd chosen the wrong one, but still nothing. As I say, I reckon it's something really obvious.

Thanks folks

Steve
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post #3363 of 7127 Old 02-27-2017, 02:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveP-UK View Post
After 20 years putting up with an old HiFi stack system, I treated myself to a shiny new Yahama RX - A1060. It's working fine with most inputs but has confused me when trying to connect it to my Samsung UE49K9000 TV.

In short, when I plug in the HDMI cable into the ARC socket on the TV and plug it into the HMMI ARC socket on the Amp, I don't hear any sound through the connected speakers at all. If I plug in an optical cable from the TV to the Amp, it works fine. Tuner is also outputting to all speakers so I don't think it's a speaker issue.

I'm fairly new to all this HDMI stuff and suspect it's (ahem) 'user error' - something really obvious - is there anyone out there that point me in the right direction? I scrolled through all the various input options on the amp, just in case I'd chosen the wrong one, but still nothing. As I say, I reckon it's something really obvious.

Thanks folks

Steve
On the Samsung TV, ensure Anynet+ is enabled.

On the Yamaha AVR, ensure HDMI Control = ON and ARC = ON.
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post #3364 of 7127 Old 02-27-2017, 06:02 PM
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Sorry if this was asked before, I scrolled through a few pages of this long thread and couldn't find the answer on the Yamaha web page either, the answer is probably right in front of me but cant find it, so I thought I'd ask here.
I would like to know what are the lowest priced Yamaha receivers that has dual independent sub outs, something similar to Audyssey MultEQ XT32 with Sub Eq?
Thanks
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post #3365 of 7127 Old 02-27-2017, 06:04 PM
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ugh! My 3060 is on backorder and not due in for a 2-3 more weeks :'(
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post #3366 of 7127 Old 02-28-2017, 03:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gto69 View Post
sorry if this was asked before, i scrolled through a few pages of this long thread and couldn't find the answer on the yamaha web page either, the answer is probably right in front of me but cant find it, so i thought i'd ask here.
I would like to know what are the lowest priced yamaha receivers that has dual independent sub outs, something similar to audyssey multeq xt32 with sub eq?
Thanks
Yamaha A2060
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post #3367 of 7127 Old 02-28-2017, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by reburg99 View Post
ugh! My 3060 is on backorder and not due in for a 2-3 more weeks :'(
Yup. Seems to be a factory shortage of them at this time.
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post #3368 of 7127 Old 02-28-2017, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by dashcam88 View Post
The Video Out option won't show up for your AV inputs, only the built in apps.

However, I found it strange an AVR as powerful/full featured as the 3060 couldn't do what you wanted so I did some digging in the manual and settings and sure enough, there is a way.

First, you need to go to the setup menu > function > input assignment.



Assign the optical/coaxial input you want to use (in your case whatever one your PC is on) to the AV input that the video source you'd like to view while your PC audio is playing is hooked up to.

Eg: for my test, I ran optical into optical 1, then assigned it to AV 1 which my Oppo is hooked up to.

Next, you'll select the video source you want to view with your PC music.
In my test, this was the Oppo.

Finally, you will now bring up the option menu on screen and under 'audio select' you will be able to select the optical/coaxial input from your PC that you assigned to the source.



I was able to watch video from my Oppo and listen to music from the PS3 no problem.

Now unfortunately, with this way if there are potentially multiple video sources you want to use with the PC audio input, you'd have to change the input assignment each time. I thought about registering a scene to save the settings but the scenes cannot include input assignments as part of their saved parameters (annoyingly).

However, this will let you ditch your other device, and at the end of the day even switching input assignments is super fast on screen.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just wanted to bump this post and thank this gentleman for posting this. It just helped me fill in the blanks on audio setup and OMG is this receiver the sickest ever or what? Proud new A1060 owner reporting in!
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post #3369 of 7127 Old 02-28-2017, 07:42 AM
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I'm finally retiring my ancient Onkyo 875. She served me well for almost 10 years but I'm ready to go to 5.1.4 from my current 5.1 setup and I'm tired of staring at my atmos modules in their boxes.

My new 2060 is arriving on Thurs (thanks to JD and AV Science). Finally, I won't have to use anymore workarounds for my 3D and 4K sources.
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post #3370 of 7127 Old 02-28-2017, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Yup. Seems to be a factory shortage of them at this time.
no worries, they are on a slow boat from Japan...
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post #3371 of 7127 Old 02-28-2017, 09:08 AM
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no worries, they are on a slow boat from Japan...
You mean Malasia or China don't you ?

Cheers
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post #3372 of 7127 Old 02-28-2017, 10:03 AM
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^^^ that too lol
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post #3373 of 7127 Old 02-28-2017, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Yamaha A2060
Thanks for the answer to my question. It looks like we have to go pretty high up in the line up to get the better room correction.
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post #3374 of 7127 Old 03-01-2017, 04:18 AM
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And it is almost end of model year.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Yup. Seems to be a factory shortage of them at this time.
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post #3375 of 7127 Old 03-01-2017, 04:27 AM
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And it is almost end of model year.
Last year these models were released in July.
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post #3376 of 7127 Old 03-01-2017, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by reburg99 View Post
ugh! My 3060 is on backorder and not due in for a 2-3 more weeks :'(
B&H, Best buy and Newegg have it in stock.
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post #3377 of 7127 Old 03-02-2017, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by dm View Post
I am setting up my newly acquired 3060 with YPAO. I have Magnepan 1.6 (planar) and Mirage OMNISAT (omnipolar) speakers in my hometheater. The planar and omnipolar speakers produce a very different sound pattern then traditional box speakers.

The YPAO measured speaker distances vary from what I measure from the MLP with a measuring tape as follows:

SPEAKER, YPAO Distance, Measured Distance, Error
Front L, 12.8ft, 9.2ft, +3.6ft
Center, 14.2 ft, 11ft, +3.2ft
Front R, 14.6ft, 9.2ft, +5.4ft
Front Ceiling/Presence L, 8.4ft, 7.9ft, +1.5ft
Front Ceiling/Presence R, 14.4ft, 9.1ft, +5.3ft
Rear Ceiling/Presence L, 6.4ft, 9.5ft, -3.1ft
Rear Ceiling/Presence R, 10.2ft, 12.1, -1.9ft
SL, 11.8ft, 13.3ft, -1.5ft
SR, 19.2ft, 14.6ft, +4.6ft

When measuring I did put the microphone up on a stand so that it was ear level, although I do have high back recliner chairs.

The question is should I adjust the distances to what I measured with a tape measure or leave the auto YPAO settings?

Are my planar and omnipolar speaker radiation patterns causing YPAO to generate less then optimal measurements?
My distance results with YPAO are quite accurate, except for the right rear speaker closest to my MLP. It is 50% off.

I am also wondering if I should adjust to real distance or keep the YPAO measurement? It also sets this speaker level much too high. So I adjust it down to match the level of the other speakers and results are much better.

Man Cave HT: Yamaha RX-A3060 | Chane A5RX-C | Chane A2.4 | Chane A1.4 | HSU VTF-3 MK5 HP
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post #3378 of 7127 Old 03-02-2017, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammonje View Post
My distance results with YPAO are quite accurate, except for the right rear speaker closest to my MLP. It is 50% off.

I am also wondering if I should adjust to real distance or keep the YPAO measurement? It also sets this speaker level much too high. So I adjust it down to match the level of the other speakers and results are much better.
There could be an issue with that speaker. Try swapping the speaker wires and see if the issue follows the speaker.
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post #3379 of 7127 Old 03-02-2017, 07:23 AM
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So I upgraded from a non-4k Yamaha to a RX-A760 and I'm having issues hooking up more than 1 device. Right now I have my Xbox 1S hooked into HDMI 1 on the Yamaha, then I have the HDMI out on the Yamaha going into my Samsung TV (going into HDMI 2). All that works great, every time, no problem (I got the 4k into the right mode through that hidden menu).

Now I'm trying to hook up my Nintendo Classic Edition (I've tried a laptop as well) and when I plug them into HDMI inputs on the Yamaha, I get sound but no picture....unless I hit the On Screen button on the remote. Once the Yamaha menu pops up on screen, I can see and hear everything just fine. Once I exit that menu it all goes away.

I get how receivers work, but the Input menu on this one seems very basic, so I'm not sure what I'm missing here.When I look at the inputs it only shows what audio in it is mapped to, nothing about video in or video out on a single HDMI.
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post #3380 of 7127 Old 03-02-2017, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dm View Post
I am setting up my newly acquired 3060 with YPAO. I have Magnepan 1.6 (planar) and Mirage OMNISAT (omnipolar) speakers in my hometheater. The planar and omnipolar speakers produce a very different sound pattern then traditional box speakers.

The YPAO measured speaker distances vary from what I measure from the MLP with a measuring tape as follows:
...

The question is should I adjust the distances to what I measured with a tape measure or leave the auto YPAO settings?

Are my planar and omnipolar speaker radiation patterns causing YPAO to generate less then optimal measurements?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
There could be an issue with that speaker. Try swapping the speaker wires and see if the issue follows the speaker.
All my main level speakers are Mirage -- Fronts are omnipolar, Surrounds are bipolar. My results are basically identical to measurements, but I have found that "pointing" the Fronts at the MLP is important for distance accuracy and sound. Some thoughts -- I assume you have run YPAO more than once to compare results. Especially the Magnepans ought to be adjusted (twisted) for best distance results (although I have no idea of what would be best with them -- I returned the Magnepans many years ago after trying them in my house). Also, are you using a multipoint YPAO test? There is some discussion about whether multipoint (at least 3 or 4 positions) helps, but most say to run multiple positions.

I've found that odd shaped rooms and large furniture can affect YPAO results -- that's why I suggest several runs to compare. A "hard" room may also add reflections that affect results. Since most find that YPAO is accurate and helpful, to me you would want to find how speaker position and room adjustments can help you get YPAO results that are closer to actual measurements. Otherwise those "odd" YPAO results are trying to compensate for some anomaly that has been detected.

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post #3381 of 7127 Old 03-02-2017, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammonje View Post
My distance results with YPAO are quite accurate, except for the right rear speaker closest to my MLP. It is 50% off.

I am also wondering if I should adjust to real distance or keep the YPAO measurement? It also sets this speaker level much too high. So I adjust it down to match the level of the other speakers and results are much better.
Recall, the distances that are reported are strictly based on measured delays till the sound from the speaker reached the mic. So, if there is any additional delays in the signal path to the speaker they will be off accordingly.

I believe that it is a bad idea to change the reported distances since what you really care about is the arrival time of the sound to your ears (mic position). You want all of the sound from the different speakers to arrive at your ears in sync.

Also, I'd say that speaker levels is much more subjective...it's what sounds good to you. Distances are objective since the delay (if set correctly) is either correct or your imaging will be off.

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2) Sony 75Z9D, Yamaha RX-A3080, 2xOutlaw Audio 2200s, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
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post #3382 of 7127 Old 03-02-2017, 12:41 PM
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So I've just got my first UHD TV (Samsung UE65KS8000) which was then followed by Sky Q. I then discovered my current AVR (Pioneer SC-LX56) isn't HDCP2.2 so I have had to resort to Sky Q direct to the TV and ARC back to the AVR - I hate this!

So, a new AVR is on the cards... I've decided it's either going to be the A3060 or A2060 - are there any compelling features to make the A3060 a must have over the A2060?
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post #3383 of 7127 Old 03-02-2017, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Rodz85 View Post
So I've just got my first UHD TV (Samsung UE65KS8000) which was then followed by Sky Q. I then discovered my current AVR (Pioneer SC-LX56) isn't HDCP2.2 so I have had to resort to Sky Q direct to the TV and ARC back to the AVR - I hate this!

So, a new AVR is on the cards... I've decided it's either going to be the A3060 or A2060 - are there any compelling features to make the A3060 a must have over the A2060?
I believe the biggest difference is that the A3060 supports 11 channels (with the addition of a separate 2 channel amp) so that you can have up to a 7.2.4 channel setup.
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3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
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post #3384 of 7127 Old 03-02-2017, 01:37 PM
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I believe the biggest difference is that the A3060 supports 11 channels (with the addition of a separate 2 channel amp) so that you can have up to a 7.2.4 channel setup.
The 3060 can also apply Yamaha's advanced DSP processing to full Atmos programs while the 2060 can only offer direct playback for Atmos.

From the manual (p. 77)....

About Dolby Atmos®

• Dolby Atmos contents are decoded as Dolby TrueHD or Dolby Digital Plus in the following situations. (Dolby Atmos PCM format is always decoded as Dolby Atmos.)

– Neither surround back nor presence speakers are used.
– Headphones are used (2-channel playback).
– (RX-A2060 only) Any of CINEMA DSP program is selected.
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post #3385 of 7127 Old 03-02-2017, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
I believe the biggest difference is that the A3060 supports 11 channels (with the addition of a separate 2 channel amp) so that you can have up to a 7.2.4 channel setup.
I don't he a full home theatre setup so this probably won't be too much of an issue. The A2060 can still do 7.2.2 though yes?

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Originally Posted by bluechunks View Post
The 3060 can also apply Yamaha's advanced DSP processing to full Atmos programs while the 2060 can only offer direct playback for Atmos. (The 2060 can apply DSP to the "core" TrueHD data on Atmos materials.)
I appreciate it's quite subjective but is this worth an extra £500? Would the difference only be noticeable on really high end speakers?
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post #3386 of 7127 Old 03-02-2017, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Rodz85 View Post
I appreciate it's quite subjective but is this worth an extra £500? Would the difference only be noticeable on really high end speakers?
It is quite subjective and I'm very happy with my 2060.

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post #3387 of 7127 Old 03-02-2017, 05:09 PM
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Coming from a 5.1 RX-A1000 system to a 5.1.4 RX-A3060 I've just noticed something I must have overlooked before. When I engage the various Music DSP modes the surround speakers are not enabled; just the mains and the four presence speakers (no LED indicators on the front panel). All speakers function as expected in the movie surround modes. This is probably normal, but I've just never noticed it before and it wasn't an option obviously with my RX-A1000. I can't find anything in the manual that references this.
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post #3388 of 7127 Old 03-02-2017, 06:30 PM
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I am a Pretty Big Gamer. I have 5 Systems hooked up to my Yamaha 3060. Xbox one, PS4, Shield, WiiU and Tonight a Nintendo Switch.
I just bought a Elgato HD60s - it has a 1080p 60FPS passthrough which you connect your Game console IN to it and use the HDMI out to a Monitor or TV and USB out to your PC (in mycase Laptop).
IT is supposed to be lagless, but my intentions are not to use the OUT to a TV that I play on.
I was wondering if I connect the HDMI 2 of the Yamaha to the Elgato Capture device, if my HDMI will still output to my 4K tv as normal and the second HDMI will output to the elgato so I can record on my laptop?
Anyone have any experience with this?
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post #3389 of 7127 Old 03-02-2017, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Comp1demon View Post
I am a Pretty Big Gamer. I have 5 Systems hooked up to my Yamaha 3060. Xbox one, PS4, Shield, WiiU and Tonight a Nintendo Switch.
I just bought a Elgato HD60s - it has a 1080p 60FPS passthrough which you connect your Game console IN to it and use the HDMI out to a Monitor or TV and USB out to your PC (in mycase Laptop).
IT is supposed to be lagless, but my intentions are not to use the OUT to a TV that I play on.
I was wondering if I connect the HDMI 2 of the Yamaha to the Elgato Capture device, if my HDMI will still output to my 4K tv as normal and the second HDMI will output to the elgato so I can record on my laptop?
Anyone have any experience with this?
I haven't received my RX-A3060 yet so I can't say definitively, but I've been told it works the same as my RX-A3000.

I currently use one HDMI out to my TV, and the second to my Projector in the same room. Whatever video shown on my TV can be the same as what I get on my projector.

What I don't know, however, is if both HDMI's are always active because I don't watch both at the same time.
Sweetmeat is offline  
post #3390 of 7127 Old 03-02-2017, 09:53 PM
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Unless the Elgato Capture device is 4K as well it may not output 4K to your TV. I had the same problem with a new 4K blu-ray player and had me baffled for a time. I have hdmi 2 going to a splitter feeding several other TV's that are only 1080p and that is all the player would output. I turned off hdmi 2 and instantly got 4K HDR on the main TV.
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1060 , arc , computer , dolby atmos , lgtv , OLED65C6P , RX-A1060 , RX-A3060 , savant , Sonos , Yamaha , yamaha 1060

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