The "Official" Yamaha RX-A1060, RX-A2060 and RX-A3060 AVENTAGE AVR Thread - Page 128 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3811 of 7185 Old 04-01-2017, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jong1 View Post
My argument on this is that both DV and even HLG, can pass perfectly well over HDMI 2.0a, which this year's Yamahas say they support. The Yamahas are not required to do anything other than pass the datastream through. This is not like adding a new audio format, which the AVR would need to decode.

If there is something Yamaha have done in their design that "breaks compatibility with some HDMI 2.0 sources" (probably related to the wayytheir menu system and/or the way they mediate EDID info, via their "4K Modes"), then they should either fix or, if that is impossible, offer customers an upgrade program.
Yes, I agree with you. And that takes us back to where we started on this question some months back. Unfortunately, unless Yamaha confirms (which is tantamount to a commitment to make any adjustments needed to ensure there aren't problems) or we finally get a DV UHD to test it -- we just don't know.

The announcement for DV on the 2017 models says "support for Dolby Vision". What does that mean? Passthru? An addition to the video processing?

Specifically: "On the video side of the equation, each of these new AV receivers support 4K Ultra HD at 60p 4:4:4 for watching entertainment and gaming content in this high-resolution format. They also offer high dynamic range (HDR) and BT.2020 compatibility, providing spectacular detail for both dark and bright image content, as well as provide a wide spectrum of color for 4K.

Providing even greater viewing pleasure on these new AV receivers is the addition of Hybrid Log-Gamma HDR and Dolby Vision™ compatibility, which will be available with a firmware update by fall of 2017. Leveraging the HDR innovation that powers Dolby’s most advanced theaters, Dolby Vision transforms the TV watching experience in the home by delivering greater brightness and contrast, as well as a fuller palette of rich colors."

Notice that is "compatibility" and a later firmware commitment like DTS:X was for 2016. I don't know the technology, but to me that could still describe passthru. But I certainly welcome your thoughts.
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post #3812 of 7185 Old 04-01-2017, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert ham View Post
I have a 3050 that is basically a 3060 for 99% of the specifications. These new DV compatible Yamaha receivers are a BIG STEP backwards compared to our top of the line models. So,,, if DV requires a specific Chip Set, then none of us are going to get upgrades, so the 3070 future model will probably have DV,,

But!!!!!! Remember that all new 4K HDR type BluRay players have Dual HDMI Outputs.. One is Video/Audio but and the second HDMI output can be just Audio.. So if your TV set is DV capable, just run the Audio HDMI to the 3050,3060 and run the DV Video to the TV sets HDMI.. You still have ATMOS and DTS-X,, so nothing actually changes, you have great picture and great sound...

All that DV means on a AV receiver is you can use a single HDMI cable and the Yamaha will strip off the audio and pass the video on to the TV set.. So it is more of a convenience feature, not a requirement to display DV on your TV set and Atmos or DTS-X sound on your Yamaha.. The good news is this feature is more of a marketing tool, but in no way is your Yamaha receivers now obsolete!!!
This.
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post #3813 of 7185 Old 04-01-2017, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
This.
If this is referring to the DV question, I saw that quote by @robert ham previously and disagree. He is entitled to use his AVR as he chooses, but the ability to utilize the OnScreen display is a major function of the AVR -- it was a major driver for my originally giving up a Lexicon to move to a Yamaha A820. While I agree, the main purpose of the AVR is to obtain the audio quality and function, being able to configure and monitor OnScreen is a huge asset.

I just went through a two week process of trying to figure out why I had lost audio using an optical cable from my LG to the AVR to allow exploiting the AVRs audio vs the LG speakers. Because the sound is going directly (via optical) from the LG to the AVR, the OnScreen Display is not available in that configuration (the video output from the AVR doesn't go to the TV, it comes from the Directv RVU). I know from first hand experience of the past two weeks that it's a significant pain to monitor/control the AVR on the front panel (or as I finally had to do, with the browser Setup interface) while connected to the Directv 4K content (as would be true with audio bypass from BR to AVR). So much so, that I have setup system configuration options that routinely allow me to switch between standard (HD) Directv usage and the 4K viewing. Trying to debug my optical cable issue was relatively simple using the OnScreen display, but those settings don't apply when switching to the Directv RVU mode -- hence the browser interface.

Therefore, saying that we have what is needed by simply using the Audio Only HDMI out of the BR player is passable, but it is certainly not optimal or convenient -- nor do I relish the additional configuration setup needed to employ yet another device (much as I love my OPPO 203) which bypasses the AVR.

The ideal and optimal solution is that the AVR video passthru works with Dolby Vision. I'm not trying to say that Yamaha has an obligation to provide a retroactive firmware fix if passthru does not enable DV, but for a top-of the-line product that was being developed/released at the same time that Dolby Vision was rolling out, it would be an attractive and appropriate fix for Yamaha to supply.

Will I buy a new A3070 just to get Dolby Vision? Hell no! But I think my request for firmware (if needed) on the A3060 is reasonable. I made my choice of the A3060 because these AVRs have always provide video passthru. Dolby Vision was on my radar when I made that choice. All in all, I hope all of this is moot and passthru just works as we would (and frankly should) expect.

Ok, <hot button off>.

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post #3814 of 7185 Old 04-01-2017, 06:39 PM
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For the life of me I can not figure out how to manually adjust the peq settings my calibration did. I know we can go to manual but the eq is all flat. Is there not a way to change the curves manually the Ypao came up with

Edit. NM. I finally found the peq data copy button.

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post #3815 of 7185 Old 04-02-2017, 07:17 AM
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Hey everyone, getting my 1060. I'm pretty excited to upgrade my AVR into the world of HDMI. I've been doing a lot of reading about atmos speaker placement. I was hoping someone could weigh in on the following:

I'm shooting for a 5.1.2 system, and I'm not sure what the best atmos speaker placement would be.

a) Traditional 5.25 driver bookshelf speaker, front mounted ceiling height.

b) 3 or 4in driver cube style speaker, wall mounted ceiling height, just in front of the MLP - closer to atmos spec.

What frequency are the overhead speakers expected to reproduce? Is the sound quality vital?

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post #3816 of 7185 Old 04-02-2017, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nobread View Post
Hey everyone, getting my 1060. I'm pretty excited to upgrade my AVR into the world of HDMI. I've been doing a lot of reading about atmos speaker placement. I was hoping someone could weigh in on the following:

I'm shooting for a 5.1.2 system, and I'm not sure what the best atmos speaker placement would be.

a) Traditional 5.25 driver bookshelf speaker, front mounted ceiling height.

b) 3 or 4in driver cube style speaker, wall mounted ceiling height, just in front of the MLP - closer to atmos spec.

What frequency are the overhead speakers expected to reproduce? Is the sound quality vital?

Fronts: Polk RTI a7
center: csi a4
Surrounds rti a3
Are in-ceiling speakers an option in your room? If so, some Polk V80's would work well with your setup.

If you are limited to wall mounting then option b) would be best. A pair of the Polk Atrium series of speakers might be something to consider, I know they have worked well for others. You can contact Polk for guidance on what model would be best paired with your existing Polk speakers.
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post #3817 of 7185 Old 04-02-2017, 11:32 AM
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OK, so I'm having a major problem with my setup. While watching DirecTV, FireTV, Blurays or even playing XBOX (so any and all sources) the TV goes blank periodically, sound goes off and on the AVR, the red HDMI lights go dark momentarily.

It's obviously a huge distraction.

My #1 troubleshooting step is going to be recabling all the HDMI cables. I currently have Amazon basic cables that are supposed to be UHD ready but screw it, I'll be ordering some of those monoprice ones in about 3 minutes.

Is there anything else obvious I should check? Since it's all sources, I figure it has to be something in common with all of them (cables or the actual AVR)

Edit: I should probably point out that when I had the entire set up in my old Den I had no video dropouts even with the same cables. So maybe they are not the problem but I'm going to start there anyway because it's cheap and easy and monoprice has a 15% off coupon for today only.
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post #3818 of 7185 Old 04-02-2017, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by TrojanHorse View Post
OK, so I'm having a major problem with my setup. While watching DirecTV, FireTV, Blurays or even playing XBOX (so any and all sources) the TV goes blank periodically, sound goes off and on the AVR, the red HDMI lights go dark momentarily.

It's obviously a huge distraction.

My #1 troubleshooting step is going to be recabling all the HDMI cables. I currently have Amazon basic cables that are supposed to be UHD ready but screw it, I'll be ordering some of those monoprice ones in about 3 minutes.

Is there anything else obvious I should check? Since it's all sources, I figure it has to be something in common with all of them (cables or the actual AVR)

Edit: I should probably point out that when I had the entire set up in my old Den I had no video dropouts even with the same cables. So maybe they are not the problem but I'm going to start there anyway because it's cheap and easy and monoprice has a 15% off coupon for today only.
1) Good call on the monoprice cables---just make sure to get the "certified" ones

2) If you are using 4K sources (or display) verify 4K "Mode 1" is set in the Yamaha's advanced settings. While there, verify the current Yamaha firmware (1.27) is installed.

3) If the HDMI cable form the AVR to the display is greater than 15' check out this thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-hd...hat-works.html

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post #3819 of 7185 Old 04-02-2017, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bluechunks View Post
2) If you are using 4K sources (or display) verify 4K "Mode 1" is set in the Yamaha's advanced settings.
Mode 1 is definitely necessary for all 4K goodness, but be aware that switching to Mode 1 is quite likely to cause problems with anything but the most flawless of HDMI cables over a few feet.

Mode 2 limits HDMI to modes <9Gbps, so can make poorer cables work. Mode 1 allows all HDMI modes up to the full 18Gbps, but, of course, this means cables that work up to 9Gbps but not up to 18Gbps will fail when the source asks to use them. In fact, I was going to ask if this mode had been changed when re-locating the kit, because switching from Mode 2 to Mode 1 could well cause these symptoms to show up.
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Originally Posted by jong1 View Post
Mode 1 is definitely necessary for all 4K goodness, but be aware that switching to Mode 1 is quite likely to cause problems with anything but the most flawless of HDMI cables over a few feet.

Mode 2 limits HDMI to modes <9Gbps, so can make poorer cables work. Mode 1 allows all HDMI modes up to the full 18Gbps, but, of course, this means cables that work up to 9Gbps but not up to 18Gbps will fail when the source asks to use them. In fact, I was going to ask if this mode had been changed when re-locating the kit, because switching from Mode 2 to Mode 1 could well cause these symptoms to show up.

Bluejeans have very reliable cables (Belden) at reasonable prices with a 30 days return.
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/...hdmi-cable.htm
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post #3821 of 7185 Old 04-02-2017, 03:42 PM
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New 3060 Owner, first question!!

I'm running 9 speakers plus two subs. Getting ready to add the rear prescensce speakers for the full 11 ch. I have an older rotel power amp to drive the new speakers.

I have a basement home theatre setup, so I have drop ceilings. I was thinking about a set of Yamaha ceiling mount speakers. They are about $100 a pair. Thoughts on the speakers and should I mount them directly above my listening/ viewing couch? And typically how far should they be spaced apart?

My room is approx. 25' long and 15' wide!

And would this be considered Dolby atmos?
Thanks, Troy.
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post #3822 of 7185 Old 04-02-2017, 04:33 PM
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The &quot;Official&quot; Yamaha RX-A1060, RX-A2060 and RX-A3060 AVENTAGE AVR Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Comp1demon View Post
So I installed a DLNA Server application on my PC and added the folders I want to show up.



Went to my 3060.

It saw the DLNA.

Opened it

All the folders I added were there.

Went into the folder, the music was there.

Pressed play.

DOES NOT WORK - get a Can not play file error.



Here is the File.



This is not an SACD or a DSD file - these are high bitrate FLAC files from my understanding the 3060 should play them direct over the network??

Here is a copy of the media info.

Any idea why it does not work?



I'm at a loss. I reripped a CD set when I found that one of the tracks had errors, and decided to try out FLAC. I ripped at 16 word length, and 48k sampling rate) and played off my Netgear ReadyShare network drive. Played fine on my older, lower end Yamaha.

Q: are you ripping a CD at 96k/24, or is that a studio master? If ripping, why?

What compression are your FLAC files? Compression doesn't effect audio quality, only the time it takes to encode and decode. Try ripping a file at mid-range compression (5/10) or no compression as a control test.

Another idea… Download a FLAC that someone else has prepared and try that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacovish View Post
For the life of me I can not figure out how to manually adjust the peq settings my calibration did. I know we can go to manual but the eq is all flat. Is there not a way to change the curves manually the Ypao came up with



Edit. NM. I finally found the peq data copy button.
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Last edited by ChromeJob; 04-02-2017 at 04:50 PM.
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post #3823 of 7185 Old 04-03-2017, 03:15 AM
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Just to be certain...
I currently have a 9.2 setup with front presence and back surrounds. The Enhanced DSP will treat those as overhead/ceiling speakers if they are assigned that way in a 5.2.4 configuration?
If so how much sound is likely to be coming from the overhead/ceiling speakers with 2.0/5.1/7.1 content? Is it very significant?
I ask because I will be watching very little true Atmos content.
Wondering how much of an upgrade the 3060 will be over my 2030.
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post #3824 of 7185 Old 04-03-2017, 05:38 AM
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Bestbuy has RX-A660 for $300 as deal of the day. Amazon also dropped to $400. I ordered one to use until 2017 models come out. Then I'll make this one my secondary receiver once I get my A2070 or A3070.
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post #3825 of 7185 Old 04-03-2017, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
Just to be certain...
I currently have a 9.2 setup with front presence and back surrounds. The Enhanced DSP will treat those as overhead/ceiling speakers if they are assigned that way in a 5.2.4 configuration?
If so how much sound is likely to be coming from the overhead/ceiling speakers with 2.0/5.1/7.1 content? Is it very significant?
I ask because I will be watching very little true Atmos content.
Wondering how much of an upgrade the 3060 will be over my 2030.
The Ehanced DSP with treat those speakers similarly to how the A3060 would distribute the Atmos metadata sound to them. Enhanced emulates what Yamaha expects Atmos or DTS:X might do with the soundtrack. Atmos or DTS:X would sound as defined. Some minor forward and rearward sound from the Main and Surrounds would be distributed to the FP and the "new" RP to emulate Atmos and essentially "elevate" the sound.

If your Rear speakers are already in the ceiling, it's difficult to say how much that "enhanced elevation" would make a difference. I tried a setup with FPs and identified my floor standing rear speakers as the RPs and honestly didn't think there was a great difference and chose to buy rear ceilings for RPs and go with the 7.2.4 config. Of coourse, that meant another amp too...

I'd be interested in what others think also.

Atmos/DTS:X HT in Vaulted Room -- LG OLED Settings Options
Yamaha RX-A3060: 7.2.4 or 7.2.2 + Zone2 (switchable); OPPO 203; LG OLED65B6P; Harmony 650 & Home Hub
Base: Mirage OM-6 (FLR), MC-si (C), OM-R2 (SLR), FRx-nine (BLR)
Presence: ELAC A4s (FP), RSL C34Es (RP); 2 aci Titan subs; RP amp: AudioSource AMP100VS
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post #3826 of 7185 Old 04-03-2017, 08:18 AM
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Is there a way to adjust default volume for a given input on 1060?

I've searched the forums but haven't found an answer to this question.
When I listen to cable/sat at night, a volume of -50 is ideal. When I switch to radio/tuner, that same -50 is actually loud, and I have to turn it down to -70. Then I switch back to cab/sat, and that -70 is too low, so I have to turn it up to -50.

Is there a way to adjust the standard volume for a given input.. i.e. tell the receiver to make the radio 20db louder? So that at -50db, the cable/sat sounds the same volume as the radio/tuner?

I know one can do that with the Scenes functionality but if I don't want to rely on using the Scene buttons (since I won't usually be using my receiver remote) can I tell the receiver to make the radio/tuner louder?

Thanks,
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post #3827 of 7185 Old 04-03-2017, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lithnights View Post
I've searched the forums but haven't found an answer to this question.
When I listen to cable/sat at night, a volume of -50 is ideal. When I switch to radio/tuner, that same -50 is actually loud, and I have to turn it down to -70. Then I switch back to cab/sat, and that -70 is too low, so I have to turn it up to -50.

Is there a way to adjust the standard volume for a given input.. i.e. tell the receiver to make the radio 20db louder? So that at -50db, the cable/sat sounds the same volume as the radio/tuner?

I know one can do that with the Scenes functionality but if I don't want to rely on using the Scene buttons (since I won't usually be using my receiver remote) can I tell the receiver to make the radio/tuner louder?

Thanks,
Yes, there is. It's Called "Input Trim" and it's in the Options Menu.
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post #3828 of 7185 Old 04-03-2017, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jong1 View Post
Yes, there is. It's Called "Input Trim" and it's in the Options Menu.
That seems to work. I assume it can only be adjusted by plus or minus 6db, right?
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post #3829 of 7185 Old 04-03-2017, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jong1 View Post
Mode 1 is definitely necessary for all 4K goodness, but be aware that switching to Mode 1 is quite likely to cause problems with anything but the most flawless of HDMI cables over a few feet.

Mode 2 limits HDMI to modes <9Gbps, so can make poorer cables work. Mode 1 allows all HDMI modes up to the full 18Gbps, but, of course, this means cables that work up to 9Gbps but not up to 18Gbps will fail when the source asks to use them. In fact, I was going to ask if this mode had been changed when re-locating the kit, because switching from Mode 2 to Mode 1 could well cause these symptoms to show up.
I don't think I'm even aware of that setting so it's probably at whatever the default is. I don't think I'm using any 4k sources except for an infrequent UHD bluray (I only own two). I am not quite sure where the upscaling is taking place though but if the receiver is doing it, perhaps that's an issue. The TV is 4k but non HDR.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluechunks View Post
1) Good call on the monoprice cables---just make sure to get the "certified" ones

2) If you are using 4K sources (or display) verify 4K "Mode 1" is set in the Yamaha's advanced settings. While there, verify the current Yamaha firmware (1.27) is installed.

3) If the HDMI cable form the AVR to the display is greater than 15' check out this thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-hd...hat-works.html
Certified cables (the TV source cable is 25 feet long) arriving Thursday, will report back then.
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post #3830 of 7185 Old 04-03-2017, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richlife View Post
The Ehanced DSP with treat those speakers similarly to how the A3060 would distribute the Atmos metadata sound to them. Enhanced emulates what Yamaha expects Atmos or DTS:X might do with the soundtrack. Atmos or DTS:X would sound as defined. Some minor forward and rearward sound from the Main and Surrounds would be distributed to the FP and the "new" RP to emulate Atmos and essentially "elevate" the sound.

If your Rear speakers are already in the ceiling, it's difficult to say how much that "enhanced elevation" would make a difference. I tried a setup with FPs and identified my floor standing rear speakers as the RPs and honestly didn't think there was a great difference and chose to buy rear ceilings for RPs and go with the 7.2.4 config. Of coourse, that meant another amp too...

I'd be interested in what others think also.
Thanks. Will you link me to your ht build thread so I can have a better understanding?
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post #3831 of 7185 Old 04-03-2017, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrojanHorse View Post
Certified cables (the TV source cable is 25 feet long) arriving Thursday, will report back then.
Sounds like you are not watching much 4K content so leave the Yamaha in "Mode 2" and turn off the video processing in the Yamaha and let your devices send their native data to the TV.

Just so you are not surprised later, even "certified" cables generally fail when trying to transmit 4K/60 over long (>15ft) distances. You should be fine with 1080p at that distance.

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Last edited by bluechunks; 04-03-2017 at 10:25 AM.
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post #3832 of 7185 Old 04-03-2017, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jm10 View Post
Bluejeans have very reliable cables (Belden) at reasonable prices with a 30 days return.
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/...hdmi-cable.htm
Changed all my cables to Blue Jeans, and they work great. Watched Billy Lynns Long Half Time Walk shot in 4K 60 FPS and it looked outstanding. That disc pushes the limit of any cable.

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post #3833 of 7185 Old 04-03-2017, 01:16 PM
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{woof} Wow. What year are we in where content pushes the limit of an interconnect cable. O_o
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A: Yamaha RX-V775; Chromecast Audio; iPod Classic, Touch. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
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post #3834 of 7185 Old 04-03-2017, 01:32 PM
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{woof} Wow. What year are we in where content pushes the limit of an interconnect cable. O_o
Agreed. I got the extended info screen on my Oppo 203 and I can't remember exactly what the transfer rate was, but it was way above 9 GBS. Like you I love all this stuff, it was my job for most of my working life. "Can't wait" for the next iteration of HDMI..HAHA. And then we'll get 8K and will need gear and cables that do 48 GBS. As long as we are addicted to this hobby I guess we will be beta testers to some degree. Thank God for guys like you and everyone on the forums.
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post #3835 of 7185 Old 04-04-2017, 07:14 AM
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Hi all.
I recently bought a RX-A3060 and a Shield TV Pro (2017), and I'm having some issues that I don't know how to fix.


I'm using a Logitech Harmony Elite remote to power on/off my TV, AVR and Shield.
My remote is programmed to not fully power down the Shield when it's not being used, and the settings within the Shield itself is set to Sleep after 2 hours of inactivity.


When I first power everything on, everything works as expected. However, after I press the off button on my remote, and within a few minutes or so I start the same activity, sometimes I do not get any video displayed on my TV. When I have this problem, sometimes I have audio and other times I don't. The only way I've found to resolve this issue is to unplug the Shield, wait for 30 seconds or so, and plug it back in.


Within my Shield settings, I have "CEC TV On" and "CEC TV Off" set to Off.


My TV uses (I think) HDMI 2 for HDMI-CEC, but I don't want to use HDMI-CEC (nor ARC), so I have disabled HDMI-CEC in my TV settings. I am also not using HDMI 2 on the TV, but instead using HDMI 4.


I have not yet checked the RX-A3060 HDMI Control settings, but the Owner's manual makes me believe the default setting is Off. Maybe I'm not remembering correctly, but I thought I needed to use HDMI 2 on the AVR to use HDMI-CEC, or maybe that's just ARC. I am using HDMI 3 for the Shield TV Pro.


Have any of you experienced this kind of issue? Is there a way to get around it? Is this a HDMI handshake issue, HDMI-CEC issue, HDMI cord issue, or something else? Would the order of powering on my devices make any difference?


I really like the functionality of the Shield, but if I can't find a way to resolve this I will need to return it and use the Apple TV 4 instead, as I don't have this same issue with that.

xbr75x900E and JVC RS420 with Elite 120" screen
Receiver - Yamaha RX-A3060/RX-A3000, WXA-50 MusicCast Amp for Zone 2
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post #3836 of 7185 Old 04-04-2017, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Sweetmeat View Post
Hi all.
I recently bought a RX-A3060 and a Shield TV Pro (2017), and I'm having some issues that I don't know how to fix.
As described this sounds more like a handshake issue. HDCP failure results in no video, or no audio, or both. The only resolution is a power off-on cycle. But do be sure that HDMI-Control is off in the 3060.

As to the handshake problem, try re-ordering the power-on sequence in the Elite software, and maybe add a delay somewhere. This type thing needs a lot of fiddling.
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post #3837 of 7185 Old 04-04-2017, 08:00 AM
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Good Advice

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Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post
As described this sounds more like a handshake issue. HDCP failure results in no video, or no audio, or both. The only resolution is a power off-on cycle. But do be sure that HDMI-Control is off in the 3060.

As to the handshake problem, try re-ordering the power-on sequence in the Elite software, and maybe add a delay somewhere. This type thing needs a lot of fiddling.
This advice is very good,, I use to use a Logitech remote but now and for the last several years use a sequence of powering on and off my equipment to avoid these handshaking issues... Yamaha on first, then the Cable box and LAST is the TV set,, ZERO handshaking issues... When powering down, reverse order, TV First, cable box second and the Yamaha is last... For me this is the magic potent.. I have a Panasonic 1080P 6 year old TV set in the bedroom... Cable Box hooked to the TV set directly... If I reboot the cable box,, I have to be sure ther TV is powered off... After the box has re-booted, I turn on the TV first then the cable box.. If I do it in the oposit direction the TV set has a black screen... Handshaking of HDMI is a real pain but varies from consumer device to consumer device...
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post #3838 of 7185 Old 04-04-2017, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by robert ham View Post
This advice is very good,, I use to use a Logitech remote but now and for the last several years use a sequence of powering on and off my equipment to avoid these handshaking issues... Yamaha on first, then..
This.

FWIW, I'm also using a 2017 Shield (non-pro) and it works fine in my setup with a Harmony remote (Bluetooth control of Shield via Hub) and all the CEC stuff turned off on all components. The Shield is never powered off.
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__________
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post #3839 of 7185 Old 04-04-2017, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert ham View Post
This advice is very good,, I use to use a Logitech remote but now and for the last several years use a sequence of powering on and off my equipment to avoid these handshaking issues... Yamaha on first, then the Cable box and LAST is the TV set,, ZERO handshaking issues... When powering down, reverse order, TV First, cable box second and the Yamaha is last... For me this is the magic potent.. I have a Panasonic 1080P 6 year old TV set in the bedroom... Cable Box hooked to the TV set directly... If I reboot the cable box,, I have to be sure ther TV is powered off... After the box has re-booted, I turn on the TV first then the cable box.. If I do it in the oposit direction the TV set has a black screen... Handshaking of HDMI is a real pain but varies from consumer device to consumer device...

Thank you for your suggestions.

I did a quick search on the internet about how to resolve HDMI handshake issues, and they recommended powering on devices in the following order. TV --> AVR --> Cable Box. I have no idea the order in which my devices are powered on right now, but I'll give this a try. I'll also make sure to turn everything off in the opposite order.

xbr75x900E and JVC RS420 with Elite 120" screen
Receiver - Yamaha RX-A3060/RX-A3000, WXA-50 MusicCast Amp for Zone 2
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post #3840 of 7185 Old 04-04-2017, 08:35 AM
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AVR First

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetmeat View Post
Thank you for your suggestions.

I did a quick search on the internet about how to resolve HDMI handshake issues, and they recommended powering on devices in the following order. TV --> AVR --> Cable Box. I have no idea the order in which my devices are powered on right now, but I'll give this a try. I'll also make sure to turn everything off in the opposite order.

After many months of trial and error I found that the AVR should be first, And the TV set is last, TV set is a Sony.. Just my experience.. Other ways work but occasionally they don't,,, my recommendations have been rock solid for over 2 years of,, AVR>Cable Box> TV Set.. But in the end it is what works for you.... I have a new Sony X800 4K UHD player,, when I turn it on, it will turn on the Sony TV set,, so the AVR would be last to turn on.. So far turning on the AVR has not been an issue but this is one Sony device talking to another Sony device, so you would expect the handshaking to be fine, the Yamaha just passes the HDMI through when turned off.. Also, turning on the AVR it is set to HDMI number 2, cable box, so I still have to go in and switch to the Sony X800 on HDMI 1,, and set the AVR to Straight so I can get ATMOS audio from the 4K movie... So for me,, just using the supplied remotes has been the easiest for me to deal with..
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Last edited by robert ham; 04-04-2017 at 08:40 AM.
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