The "Official" Yamaha RX-A1060, RX-A2060 and RX-A3060 AVENTAGE AVR Thread - Page 234 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6991 of 7185 Old 03-23-2019, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by tedhontz View Post
Well guys I finally have been given permission to lift and bend, so I was excited to FINALLY get started on inserting the Yamaha 3060 into my system, until I noticed a problem. I have two Monster Power Surge Centers. They normally sit in front of me and therefore I see the same bright lights every night. But I noticed some bright lights were not lit, on both units. The "wiring ok" and "grounded ok" lights are out on both. I've owned this house just over a year and I've experienced multiple electrical issues. Right when moving in there were flickering lights. I didn't care because I was replacing with all new light fixtures and light bulbs. After installing the new fixtures, light bulbs are blowing out on a monthly basis. I've replaced 20 total in a year. Then the new light fixtures began to fail. My newer central A/C unit has blown the hard start kit 4 times. My whole house filtration system is dead. My whole house humidifier is dead. These are just the electrical issues. I've had many other issues that were hidden from the inspector that have since then gone out.

Had an electrician come over and he pulled an outlet in the home theater room. It was all rigged up. Had 8 wires running to an outlet instead of 3. There were cut up wires shoved to the back of the outlet boxes and there were red wires introduced as black wires and speaker wire was being used as ground wire! It's a disaster! I talked to the realtor because the homeowner must disclose anything that is wrong with the home. They disclosed nothing. But I was told that I need to take them to court which means also getting a lawyer and it would be my burden to prove all the problems were there before I bought the house. I don't know how I'm supposed to prove they knew about it. For example, a day after moving in, the faucet handle fell off the tub/shower faucet. It was GLUED on because the screw was stripped. That cost $300. I can say they glued it to pass inspection and they can say I glued it. So I don't know what to do. The Yamaha just sits longer while I'm going to have to figure out what to do about all these wiring and electrical issues in the house.
Damn, sorry to learn about all that. Call the electric company and see if they have any communications with the previous owner at that same address. I'm sure that won't help, but it's worth a try...you never know.
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post #6992 of 7185 Old 03-23-2019, 01:50 AM
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Damn, sorry to learn about all that. Call the electric company and see if they have any communications with the previous owner at that same address. I'm sure that won't help, but it's worth a try...you never know.
The electrician I have is an electrician from church. He was surprised to see the wiring mess so I'm going to assume he's never been here before lol. I just made a wattage comment on your JL Fathom post! You need to put pictures of your setup on your page! Wish I could afford 4 of those subs. I have JL audio amp in my car and Memphis Audio subs. But, for some reason for about the last year I don't like listening to loud music in the car anymore! Growing up I guess.......
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post #6993 of 7185 Old 03-23-2019, 05:30 AM
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...I have two Monster Power Surge Centers. They normally sit in front of me and therefore I see the same bright lights every night. But I noticed some bright lights were not lit, on both units. The "wiring ok" and "grounded ok" lights are out on both. I've owned this house just over a year and I've experienced multiple electrical issues.

So I don't know what to do. The Yamaha just sits longer while I'm going to have to figure out what to do about all these wiring and electrical issues in the house.
I wouldn't hook up the receiver until that nightmare of an electrical system is fixed. I had a guy working on our older generator; messing around with voltage. While he was "testing," dummy me didn't think to unplug the receiver. The inconsistent power tripped the fuse in my Yammy. Luckily for me it was just a fuse. I thought he had fired it. But all the time and effort to disconnect EVERYTHING from it, drop it off at a dealer to get "repaired" and reconnect everything back... UGH... I still remember that crap... I paid an additional fee to get "expedited" service. What THAT really meant was instead of sitting on a shelf for two days, they "repaired" it the same day...
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post #6994 of 7185 Old 03-23-2019, 10:57 AM
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I wouldn't hook up the receiver until that nightmare of an electrical system is fixed. I had a guy working on our older generator; messing around with voltage. While he was "testing," dummy me didn't think to unplug the receiver. The inconsistent power tripped the fuse in my Yammy. Luckily for me it was just a fuse. I thought he had fired it. But all the time and effort to disconnect EVERYTHING from it, drop it off at a dealer to get "repaired" and reconnect everything back... UGH... I still remember that crap... I paid an additional fee to get "expedited" service. What THAT really meant was instead of sitting on a shelf for two days, they "repaired" it the same day...
Yep! Yamaha is just sitting unplugged. And it won't be plugged in until all of my issues are resolved. So frustrating!
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post #6995 of 7185 Old 03-23-2019, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by tedhontz View Post
Yep! Yamaha is just sitting unplugged. And it won't be plugged in until all of my issues are resolved. So frustrating!
Ugh!

FWIW, I have my AV rack supplied by a large UPS (uninterruptible power supply, basically a battery backup) just for such reasons. The power is always stable. As our house was custom new construction I’m not worried about interior wiring issues but neighborhood voltage fluctuations and surges are always a threat.

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post #6996 of 7185 Old 03-23-2019, 07:31 PM
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Ugh!

FWIW, I have my AV rack supplied by a large UPS (uninterruptible power supply, basically a battery backup) just for such reasons. The power is always stable. As our house was custom new construction I’m not worried about interior wiring issues but neighborhood voltage fluctuations and surges are always a threat.

I try not to go into such details because when I do, people like ChromeJob make a big deal about it. But I therefore left out some details when I explained that I wouldn't be able to setup the Yamaha 3060 due to wiring problems. I have two Monster Power Surge Centers. About three weeks about, the power went off and on really quickly, like 5 times in 10 seconds. After 10 seconds the problem stopped. Around that time, either right before or right after, I noticed while sitting in my chair that each Monster Surge Center had two lights that weren't lit up. I went and looked and both units both had "wiring ok" and "grounded ok" lights now off. Due to me not being able to do physical lifting or anything, I didn't mess with it for the last three weeks. My TV and stereo was still working fine. Yamaha 3060 was not plugged in but my Sony ES STR-ZA5000ES was plugged in and it's working fine. So for about three weeks I used the system with the wiring ok and ground ok lights off. But then last week I noticed another new light that came on the Monster Surge Center. It said"Abnormal Voltage" and this particular light actually flashed red on and off to get my attention. I noticed that my voltage was 126.6 according to the Monster. I then was worried for my equipment and decided to call the power company. They showed up and messed around, then turned my power off for quite awhile and messed around some more. Finally I had power and a power company employee simply came to my door and said "We've got your voltage problem fixed. Your neighbor had the problem also." I said goodbye and figured everything was fine.

Then I went into my home theater room and noticed that while the voltage was at 120.5, good, the two lights saying "wiring ok and ground ok" were still off on both Monster units. So, I thought maybe my Monster units got zapped and were toast. I remembered I had a third cheaper Monster surge unit in my closet and I plugged it into the outlet where my other two Monsters are. The wiring ok and ground ok lights wouldn't come on on the third Monster surge unit. So that told me my Monster units were fine. So I thought my outlet was bad. I then took my third Monster unit and plugged it into another outlet in my home theater room and the two important lights still didn't light up. So now I don't think it's the outlet. Then I took my third Monster into another room and boom, all the important lights came on. So it's something isolated to the home theater room. That's when I called an electrician. He noted that I have wiring issues in other rooms as well, but the home theater wiring was the worst.

He "looked" at the circuit breaker panel and made sure everything was tight, but he didn't hook any instruments to it to test it so when he said my circuit breaker box, a pushmatic box, is ok, I still am questioning that. I do know for sure that I have rigged up wiring in my home theater room. But I also had surges a few weeks ago that could've set the problem off and I also had an abnormal voltage issue that was dealt with less than a week ago and that could've caused problems as well. That complicates things more as I don't know what caused my problems. As I mentioned in another post, I've had a lot of other electrical items go out in the house in just one year. But my Monster Surge Centers without a doubt saved my equipment, notified me of abnormal voltage, made me call the power company, and alerted me that there still are problems which got me to get an electrician over here. Without the Monster units, I wouldn't have called the power company or an electrician. I'm in the home theater room right now and the power is "working" fine but the Monsters still are alerting me of problems. But everything in the room seems completely normal. Good lights and stereo and TV. Unfortunately they don't make the Monster units anymore. What I liked about them was that from 12 feet away you could tell if one or more of the bright lights weren't lit and then I could act on that. You can also clearly see from 12 feet away what your voltage and amps are. The new Panamax displays are black and white and tiny displays and can't be read from a distance, so they do a terrible job of alerting you of issues.

When I solve everything, I'm also going to install a whole home surge protector. The highly recommended one on Amazon is $65 so I don't know why I shouldn't do that. But I don't think I could live with the Monsters and being able to clearly see all that is going on and being able to easily be alerted to issues. Current ones on the market today don't do that. Most of them are meant to go behind the audio equipment where the lights can't be seen. I continue to search eBay occasionally in case anyone happens to sell a "NEW" Monster unit like mine. The problems with the Monster units were that the lights were so bright and colorful, that the lights eventually would burn out. But I myself want the bright colorful lights and want the big digit display of voltage and amps, so I'll stick to the Monsters for as long as I can. I know the Monsters saved my equipment but there are multiple possibilities for why all the sudden I'm having this problem. Yes I have rigged wiring in the home theater room, but my equipment and both Monsters were working on that wiring without issue for over 8 months. It could be due to the multiple surges from a few weeks ago. It could also be due to an abnormal voltage issue that he just now been fixed. Also could be a problem with the circuit breaker box as it is 51 years old.
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post #6997 of 7185 Old 03-24-2019, 12:22 AM
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I try not to go into such details because when I do, people like ChromeJob make a big deal about it. But I therefore left out some details when I explained that I wouldn't be able to setup the Yamaha 3060 due to wiring problems. I have two Monster Power Surge Centers. About three weeks about, the power went off and on really quickly, like 5 times in 10 seconds. After 10 seconds the problem stopped. Around that time, either right before or right after, I noticed while sitting in my chair that each Monster Surge Center had two lights that weren't lit up. I went and looked and both units both had "wiring ok" and "grounded ok" lights now off. Due to me not being able to do physical lifting or anything, I didn't mess with it for the last three weeks. My TV and stereo was still working fine. Yamaha 3060 was not plugged in but my Sony ES STR-ZA5000ES was plugged in and it's working fine. So for about three weeks I used the system with the wiring ok and ground ok lights off. But then last week I noticed another new light that came on the Monster Surge Center. It said"Abnormal Voltage" and this particular light actually flashed red on and off to get my attention. I noticed that my voltage was 126.6 according to the Monster. I then was worried for my equipment and decided to call the power company. They showed up and messed around, then turned my power off for quite awhile and messed around some more. Finally I had power and a power company employee simply came to my door and said "We've got your voltage problem fixed. Your neighbor had the problem also." I said goodbye and figured everything was fine.

Then I went into my home theater room and noticed that while the voltage was at 120.5, good, the two lights saying "wiring ok and ground ok" were still off on both Monster units. So, I thought maybe my Monster units got zapped and were toast. I remembered I had a third cheaper Monster surge unit in my closet and I plugged it into the outlet where my other two Monsters are. The wiring ok and ground ok lights wouldn't come on on the third Monster surge unit. So that told me my Monster units were fine. So I thought my outlet was bad. I then took my third Monster unit and plugged it into another outlet in my home theater room and the two important lights still didn't light up. So now I don't think it's the outlet. Then I took my third Monster into another room and boom, all the important lights came on. So it's something isolated to the home theater room. That's when I called an electrician. He noted that I have wiring issues in other rooms as well, but the home theater wiring was the worst.

He "looked" at the circuit breaker panel and made sure everything was tight, but he didn't hook any instruments to it to test it so when he said my circuit breaker box, a pushmatic box, is ok, I still am questioning that. I do know for sure that I have rigged up wiring in my home theater room. But I also had surges a few weeks ago that could've set the problem off and I also had an abnormal voltage issue that was dealt with less than a week ago and that could've caused problems as well. That complicates things more as I don't know what caused my problems. As I mentioned in another post, I've had a lot of other electrical items go out in the house in just one year. But my Monster Surge Centers without a doubt saved my equipment, notified me of abnormal voltage, made me call the power company, and alerted me that there still are problems which got me to get an electrician over here. Without the Monster units, I wouldn't have called the power company or an electrician. I'm in the home theater room right now and the power is "working" fine but the Monsters still are alerting me of problems. But everything in the room seems completely normal. Good lights and stereo and TV. Unfortunately they don't make the Monster units anymore. What I liked about them was that from 12 feet away you could tell if one or more of the bright lights weren't lit and then I could act on that. You can also clearly see from 12 feet away what your voltage and amps are. The new Panamax displays are black and white and tiny displays and can't be read from a distance, so they do a terrible job of alerting you of issues.

When I solve everything, I'm also going to install a whole home surge protector. The highly recommended one on Amazon is $65 so I don't know why I shouldn't do that. But I don't think I could live with the Monsters and being able to clearly see all that is going on and being able to easily be alerted to issues. Current ones on the market today don't do that. Most of them are meant to go behind the audio equipment where the lights can't be seen. I continue to search eBay occasionally in case anyone happens to sell a "NEW" Monster unit like mine. The problems with the Monster units were that the lights were so bright and colorful, that the lights eventually would burn out. But I myself want the bright colorful lights and want the big digit display of voltage and amps, so I'll stick to the Monsters for as long as I can. I know the Monsters saved my equipment but there are multiple possibilities for why all the sudden I'm having this problem. Yes I have rigged wiring in the home theater room, but my equipment and both Monsters were working on that wiring without issue for over 8 months. It could be due to the multiple surges from a few weeks ago. It could also be due to an abnormal voltage issue that he just now been fixed. Also could be a problem with the circuit breaker box as it is 51 years old.
I also have a Panamax and a older Monster Power conditioner. The Panamax unit I have have nice decent sized displays...and it can go really bright if you want it to. I did see the one you were talking about with the black display, and I decided to go with with something that had a better looking display. I don't know if I have a voltage problem or not, but the volts on the Panamax usually reads 124 and sometimes 125 (I've seen it at 126 once.) Since my Panamax is also a voltage regulator, it tries to adjust the voltage AFTER it reaches beyond a certain range for example, it does nothing to correct the voltage between 115V and 125V. However if it goes below 115V, it will then raise to Voltage to something like 116V or 117V. If it goes above 125V, it will only bring it back down to about 124V or somewhere near there. Another words, it does not try to keep it at a constant 120V.

One display shows the input voltage (usually displays 124V) which is a current reading, and the other displays the output voltage (mine is currently displaying 117V,) and that is what the last correction was...so that's going to be different than the current input voltage. The output voltage does not change, it only shows what the last correction was...so it will always display the output voltage as 117V, unless it tries to correct for a overage of 125V or corrects if the voltage drops below 115V. That's the only time the output voltage value changes on the display.

The point of all this is it seems odd to me that I seem to have a voltage rating (at least on this one circuit) of 124V. The older Monster Power conditioner unit by the way is on the same circuit and it's showing 123V. And then after the first day of usage, I woke up the next morning only to find the output voltage on the Panamax was displaying 116V...meaning at one point the voltage went from 124V and dropped below 115V that early morning...(the input voltage at that moment was at 124V so another words, it went back up on it's own.) Since there is no way to reset the output display, I have no idea if this is happening on a daily basis, or only now and then.
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post #6998 of 7185 Old 03-24-2019, 12:30 AM
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The electrician I have is an electrician from church. He was surprised to see the wiring mess so I'm going to assume he's never been here before lol. I just made a wattage comment on your JL Fathom post! You need to put pictures of your setup on your page! Wish I could afford 4 of those subs. I have JL audio amp in my car and Memphis Audio subs. But, for some reason for about the last year I don't like listening to loud music in the car anymore! Growing up I guess.......
Hi Ted,

Here's a picture of my setup. Notice the Yamaha 3060 on the table as that will soon (in just little over a month) take the place of the current Pioneer Elite currently in use.)

I think your saying you wish you could get 4 of those subs. I hope I did not give you the impression I'm getting four, I'll only be getting two of them early next week, and they will be placed in front of and a little inside the front two main speakers. This picture is from about a month ago, since then I've dragged out my matching center channel, and I've upgraded the rears from one pair to two (new) pair for surround and back audio.
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post #6999 of 7185 Old 03-24-2019, 02:48 AM
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I also have a Panamax and a older Monster Power conditioner. The Panamax unit I have have nice decent sized displays...and it can go really bright if you want it to. I did see the one you were talking about with the black display, and I decided to go with with something that had a better looking display. I don't know if I have a voltage problem or not, but the volts on the Panamax usually reads 124 and sometimes 125 (I've seen it at 126 once.) Since my Panamax is also a voltage regulator, it tries to adjust the voltage AFTER it reaches beyond a certain range for example, it does nothing to correct the voltage between 115V and 125V. However if it goes below 115V, it will then raise to Voltage to something like 116V or 117V. If it goes above 125V, it will only bring it back down to about 124V or somewhere near there. Another words, it does not try to keep it at a constant 120V.

One display shows the input voltage (usually displays 124V) which is a current reading, and the other displays the output voltage (mine is currently displaying 117V,) and that is what the last correction was...so that's going to be different than the current input voltage. The output voltage does not change, it only shows what the last correction was...so it will always display the output voltage as 117V, unless it tries to correct for a overage of 125V or corrects if the voltage drops below 115V. That's the only time the output voltage value changes on the display.

The point of all this is it seems odd to me that I seem to have a voltage rating (at least on this one circuit) of 124V. The older Monster Power conditioner unit by the way is on the same circuit and it's showing 123V. And then after the first day of usage, I woke up the next morning only to find the output voltage on the Panamax was displaying 116V...meaning at one point the voltage went from 124V and dropped below 115V that early morning...(the input voltage at that moment was at 124V so another words, it went back up on it's own.) Since there is no way to reset the output display, I have no idea if this is happening on a daily basis, or only now and then.
Hi, you might have a voltage issue as well. I have two different Monster models. Both have bright indicator lights but one of them has a voltage VU meter that is hard to see until you go up to look at it. My other monster unit displays the voltage and amps in nice big bright red digits. Since I watch it every day, I noticed that it goes as low as 118 and as high as 122. That is normal. After the surges three weeks ago, my voltage was all over the place but never high, it kept going as high as 122 which is normal. The problem is that it was dipping really low, sometimes staying around 110.2 volts for the entire day. I thought it was weird but I never was alarmed because while I do know a decent amount about audio and video, I admit that I know nothing about electricity itself. I was only worried when the "abnormal voltage" red light started flashing on and off. My voltage on the low side was 124.8 and on high was 126.6. I noticed when the voltage dropped below 125, the red light would stop blinking and when it would go over 125, the red light would start blinking again. Since the electric company came out and did something to fix the voltage problem, not only is it not going too high, but I no longer have it dipping really low either. Before, my voltage was going between 110.2 to 126.6. Now ever since the voltage fix, the voltage at it's lowest has been 118.4 and the highest it's been is 121.8. As I'm typing this to you, it is settled on 121.6 and hasn't moved. That is completely normal. I would highly advise that you have your local power company come out. My power company was here within 10 minutes of me calling. Customer service told me that if they checked everything out and found nothing wrong, they would have to charge me a $38 service trip fee. I felt it was worth $38 for peace of mind. And if the power company would've said there was nothing wrong, then I would've really been worried about the high voltage. So I highly recommend you have your power company over. Now yeah the power company didn't fix all my issues and I have many, but they did fix the voltage issue.

I have a friend that works at a local high end audio shop. It's basically the only one in my city and they specialize in coming over to people's houses and they do custom setups and other things like that. I buy pallets of electronics at a time. And at other times I buy or bid on individual items. I have heard the JL Fathom 113v2. But isn't it like $4700 for one? I've heard it before and for a 13.5 inch sub, it is really amazing. I've had a SVS PB13Ultra and I thought it was decent as well. I buy and sell but selling certain things online is difficult, for example, heavy subs. So I have many gently used subs and speakers at my friend's shop. I give him a percentage of the sale. I love testing high end subs just to see how good they are. I currently have a REL sub that really blew me away. I like a lot of bass in my music and my old subs were flooded in my last home so insurance gave me the OK to get four new subs. Power Sound Audio is a sponsor of AVS and a vendor of AVS. I read their thread and it seems everyone thinks their subs are amazing, so I bought four of their 18" subs. I am really disappointed in them. I've used them on a Denon receiver and the bass was ok but my regular speakers sounded suffocated on the Denon. I switched to a Sony ES STR-ZA5000ES receiver and the front speakers sound amazing again but now I'm having problems with the subwoofers sounding right. On both receivers I've had to turn the gain up on all 4 subs to about 90% plus bump up the gain in the receiver. And on most music, there isn't enough bass IMO. But then on a certain song, if the song has an ultra low bass note, the subs come alive for a few seconds, and about tear the room in half with overpowering notes. On movies, again not much bass until something big happens and depending on that movie, when something big happens, the subs are overpowering. It seems the subs love to hit on really low frequencies but don't do much at all on normal lower frequencies. Maybe this is a nice way of saying these subs aren't musical. Now I bought the Yamaha 3060 with high hopes of getting the subs to sound better. But honestly I don't like my subs. I've learned that I shouldn't of listened to everyone on the Power Sound Audio thread. Everyone said they were amazing and I just don't agree. I posted on the Power Sound Audio thread and not only is it ran by their product owners, but the two owners of Power Sound Audio are on the thread and very active. I mentioned that I have to turn up my subs, all 4, to 90% gain and they still don't pump out enough. I mentioned that the subs hit hard on ultra low notes but they aren't "tight" and have no punch to them. Instead of anyone helping me, not only did multiple Power Sound Audio people on the thread tell me I was lying, but the owners of Power Sound Audio were really disappointing. They basically laughed and mocked me and refused to offer any advice. Obviously it's a very biased thread. So I wish I would've went with smaller drivers because I think the 18" drivers can't hit tight enough. If I can't get good subwoofer performance using the Yamaha 3060, I think I am going to take the 4 Power Sound Audio subwoofers to my friend's shop and sell all 4. My 4 subs are basically brand new and I know I'll take a hit on having to sell them used, but I want to be happy and I'm currently not. So after I get all the power problems fixed, then I'm going to setup the Yamaha and then mess with the subs to hopefully get them the way I want. Here is a pic of the front part of my room. Right now it's all torn down again because I needed to get back to the outlet and then plan to setup the Yamaha when it is safe too. My front mains look like basic Klipsch but they are much larger in person. They are the biggest Klipsch but the 18" subs make the dual 10's on the Klipsch look small. The Klipsch models are reference RF-7. They have been made off and on for over 20 years now. The are selling on eBay for about $3000 and they ship on a pallet. Previously I was using Definitive Tech flagship models and I like the Klipsch better. Before the Definitives I used a pair of KEF Q900s and again I prefer the Klipsch, and I've never been a Klipsch fan.
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post #7000 of 7185 Old 03-27-2019, 03:16 AM
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Hi, you might have a voltage issue as well. I have two different Monster models. Both have bright indicator lights but one of them has a voltage VU meter that is hard to see until you go up to look at it. My other monster unit displays the voltage and amps in nice big bright red digits. Since I watch it every day, I noticed that it goes as low as 118 and as high as 122. That is normal. After the surges three weeks ago, my voltage was all over the place but never high, it kept going as high as 122 which is normal. The problem is that it was dipping really low, sometimes staying around 110.2 volts for the entire day. I thought it was weird but I never was alarmed because while I do know a decent amount about audio and video, I admit that I know nothing about electricity itself. I was only worried when the "abnormal voltage" red light started flashing on and off. My voltage on the low side was 124.8 and on high was 126.6. I noticed when the voltage dropped below 125, the red light would stop blinking and when it would go over 125, the red light would start blinking again. Since the electric company came out and did something to fix the voltage problem, not only is it not going too high, but I no longer have it dipping really low either. Before, my voltage was going between 110.2 to 126.6. Now ever since the voltage fix, the voltage at it's lowest has been 118.4 and the highest it's been is 121.8. As I'm typing this to you, it is settled on 121.6 and hasn't moved. That is completely normal. I would highly advise that you have your local power company come out. My power company was here within 10 minutes of me calling. Customer service told me that if they checked everything out and found nothing wrong, they would have to charge me a $38 service trip fee. I felt it was worth $38 for peace of mind. And if the power company would've said there was nothing wrong, then I would've really been worried about the high voltage. So I highly recommend you have your power company over. Now yeah the power company didn't fix all my issues and I have many, but they did fix the voltage issue.

I have a friend that works at a local high end audio shop. It's basically the only one in my city and they specialize in coming over to people's houses and they do custom setups and other things like that. I buy pallets of electronics at a time. And at other times I buy or bid on individual items. I have heard the JL Fathom 113v2. But isn't it like $4700 for one? I've heard it before and for a 13.5 inch sub, it is really amazing. I've had a SVS PB13Ultra and I thought it was decent as well. I buy and sell but selling certain things online is difficult, for example, heavy subs. So I have many gently used subs and speakers at my friend's shop. I give him a percentage of the sale. I love testing high end subs just to see how good they are. I currently have a REL sub that really blew me away. I like a lot of bass in my music and my old subs were flooded in my last home so insurance gave me the OK to get four new subs. Power Sound Audio is a sponsor of AVS and a vendor of AVS. I read their thread and it seems everyone thinks their subs are amazing, so I bought four of their 18" subs. I am really disappointed in them. I've used them on a Denon receiver and the bass was ok but my regular speakers sounded suffocated on the Denon. I switched to a Sony ES STR-ZA5000ES receiver and the front speakers sound amazing again but now I'm having problems with the subwoofers sounding right. On both receivers I've had to turn the gain up on all 4 subs to about 90% plus bump up the gain in the receiver. And on most music, there isn't enough bass IMO. But then on a certain song, if the song has an ultra low bass note, the subs come alive for a few seconds, and about tear the room in half with overpowering notes. On movies, again not much bass until something big happens and depending on that movie, when something big happens, the subs are overpowering. It seems the subs love to hit on really low frequencies but don't do much at all on normal lower frequencies. Maybe this is a nice way of saying these subs aren't musical. Now I bought the Yamaha 3060 with high hopes of getting the subs to sound better. But honestly I don't like my subs. I've learned that I shouldn't of listened to everyone on the Power Sound Audio thread. Everyone said they were amazing and I just don't agree. I posted on the Power Sound Audio thread and not only is it ran by their product owners, but the two owners of Power Sound Audio are on the thread and very active. I mentioned that I have to turn up my subs, all 4, to 90% gain and they still don't pump out enough. I mentioned that the subs hit hard on ultra low notes but they aren't "tight" and have no punch to them. Instead of anyone helping me, not only did multiple Power Sound Audio people on the thread tell me I was lying, but the owners of Power Sound Audio were really disappointing. They basically laughed and mocked me and refused to offer any advice. Obviously it's a very biased thread. So I wish I would've went with smaller drivers because I think the 18" drivers can't hit tight enough. If I can't get good subwoofer performance using the Yamaha 3060, I think I am going to take the 4 Power Sound Audio subwoofers to my friend's shop and sell all 4. My 4 subs are basically brand new and I know I'll take a hit on having to sell them used, but I want to be happy and I'm currently not. So after I get all the power problems fixed, then I'm going to setup the Yamaha and then mess with the subs to hopefully get them the way I want. Here is a pic of the front part of my room. Right now it's all torn down again because I needed to get back to the outlet and then plan to setup the Yamaha when it is safe too. My front mains look like basic Klipsch but they are much larger in person. They are the biggest Klipsch but the 18" subs make the dual 10's on the Klipsch look small. The Klipsch models are reference RF-7. They have been made off and on for over 20 years now. The are selling on eBay for about $3000 and they ship on a pallet. Previously I was using Definitive Tech flagship models and I like the Klipsch better. Before the Definitives I used a pair of KEF Q900s and again I prefer the Klipsch, and I've never been a Klipsch fan.
Hi Ted,

Currently I'm not too concerned about the voltage, but what you mentioned about the power company coming over and that low amount they charged sounded interesting. Though I have been told by the people that sold me the power conditioner that the power in Arizona is not really reliable (as far as voltage is concerned.) (I really don't know if that's true or not.) Voltage is one thing, having electricity is another. I've only seen the power go out like once every couple years or so, and actually it seems like less than that...I actually can't remember the when the electricity went out around here, however I do remember when it did, it was only off for less than 10 minutes. What I'm more concerned about is when the voltage goes below 115V. I'll call the electric company and ask them a few questions about that and see what they say. As far as electricity around my house, it seems to be fine. I have not had any electrical components go out over and over again because of some sort of issue with the electricity, wiring etc.

Yes, you are correct about the cost of the JL Fathom 113v2. Originally I was going to get a pair of Seaton SubMersives as they are a incredible value, but my availability and time was an issue, so I went with the pair of Fathoms. I went with them because the delivery and set up could be taken care of by the same local company where I originally bought them, along with the fact I of course wouldn't have to do any of the heavy lifting. There was in fact no effort on my part (that was really nice!) I totally relate with what you were saying about SVS (I had considered a pair of those) and considered a pair of Power Sound Audio. In the end, I decided to just spend the extra money on the JLs, as I was tired of reading about how to get more bass from bass heads as they keep saying there's never such a thing as too much bass. Well maybe not, but then then of course there's the issue of quality...and that of course comes at a cost. Well I feel there's a point where the bass can eventually muddy up (get in the way of) the higher frequencies in the midrange and higher frequency drivers. Maybe that can be equalized out, and maybe that can work well with more substantial main speakers, but every time when the bass is turned up (even a little bit) too loud, at least on my system it gets in the way of the clarity of what's going on.

You mentioned REL. Within my system currently sits a REL Stadium II sub I bought some years ago and it went out something like four or five years ago. Currently it's used as a table behind the cabinetry so I can place my older Monster Power unit (the same one you have!) and a Satellite receiver on it so I can have room to place my older Adcom amp along the top of my main cabinetry along the left side of the system.

To address what you were saying about your subs not being loud enough, I've noticed with music, your right; mainly the bass should be balanced with the rest of the music...almost as if there may not be substantial low frequencies you would think you would get if you have dedicated subs. Of course you could turn them up, but then the bass might overpower the rest of the recorded material. Of course that all depends on how it was mixed and mastered. Movies generally have lower and more powerful bass, and of course certain types of music can also have some powerful bass.

Ideally the subs should blend and pretty much disappear with the rest of the system. In that case if there's some really loud bass, it was simply the way it was mixed in the recording. Many times during regular music material, you really don't notice the subs too much unless you turn them off and all of a sudden everything falls flat and sounds thin. Too much bass and everything sounds boomy and unnatural. Once the subs are balanced with the rest of the system, it's very desirable (with many) to want to run the subs a little hot...maybe by a couple, or three decibels above the rest of the system. Currently that's how mine are set up. Others will probably want more, but when adjusting subs; just listen and make sure the bass does not make the rest of the audio recording sound less detailed.

Please remember my system won't be professionally calibrated for at least a month or so, but even so, I mainly adjusted the sub levels to match my other speakers, and bumped them up about two decibels. I even set the distance to be 26' 9" for a rough phase adjustment. If your subs are even with your mains, set your electronic distance setting on the subs to be 12 feet further away from your mains. Because my subs are set closer to my listening area than my mains, I had to add another foot or more (additional) distance to compensate for their placement. (There's more that needs to be done, but I'm only doing a rough setup so I can at least enjoy the subs till the rest of the system is professionally calibrated.) Yea I know that sounds confusing, but subs react differently than main speakers. There's about a 12 millisecond delay with subs, (at least with the JLs) so to compensate, for every millisecond delay, a foot of electronic distance setting in the receiver needs to be added for the subs to be timed correctly with the rest of the system. This forces the subs to start 12 milliseconds sooner than the rest of the system, but at least the audio waves will be timed and the audio from all speakers will all arrive to your ears at the same time...assuming you have the rest of your speaker distance settings set. If the subs are closer to you than your mains, like one foot closer, then the distance would need to be set 13' further than your mains. Your subs look like they are pretty much even with your mains. They are angled a little bit however, so if your subs turn out to be about a half inch closer to you than your mains, set your subs to be 12' 5" further than your mains. If your mains are 10' away from you, that would equal out to a setting of 22' 5" for your sub distance setting in your receiver.

At least on my system, turning up the bass makes the audio system sound unbalanced. And like what you were saying; it mostly only plays moderately with the rest of the system till, or at least there's a lower bass note that all of a sudden overpowers everything and it's like the whole room (and my body) is shaking (and I'm on a cement floor that's covered by carpet, and my couch is also firmly planted on that same carpet (that's also on top of the same cement.) If I had a wooden floor, or if my couch was supported on some sort of wooden base, the bass effect would be greater. Also, the fact I went from one 10" ported sub, to two sealed 13.5" drivers takes a little bit of adjusting to get used to. The sealed subs don't constantly give me that air movement I was used to with the ported sub. However there were some really low bass notes that really surprised me when my body shook along with my house! Not only that, the level of that bass note was much louder than what was heard with the rest of the same song. Of course there's other songs I listened to that had some powerful low fast moving bass notes, and the JLs commanded those notes effortlessly in a way my older REL wouldn't be able to handle in the same way. Now of course that effect could be standing waves at a certain frequencies, (I think standing waves is when the sound from the bass is louder as apposed to canceling waves.) If that's what really going on, I hope of course that will all be taken care of and be more balanced when the calibration is taken care of. I do want to say that one note however (which I talk about below) is louder not because of a standing wave, but because I can clearly see the sub moving more than at other times. It really is moving more air.

Just for the heck of it, if you have the Dark Side of the Moon SACD, check out "Time" at the 2:09 mark. If you have the regular CD of Dark Side of the Moon, the same effect should be the same at the same spot of the same song, but the timing mark might be different on a regular CD.

To keep on topic with this thread, you can see in a couple of the pictures my Yamaha 3060 on the table that will replace my older Pioneer Elite SC-07 receiver in about a month.
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How are the presence speakers working for you guys? It seems no matter which speaker I hook up for presence speakers the volume is way too low. I tried listening in 9 channel music mode and putting my ear the speakers during atmos content too. The volume of presence speakers at master volume of -20db is like the volume the other speakers would be at master volume -45db.

Currently I have klipsch r41sa connected. In order to get volume at about the same level as my other speakers I had to set level to +10db and go into the eq for the presence speakers and raise all the bands to the maximum of +6db. It seems like the receiver doesn’t really power any speakers connected to presence speakers well.




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post #7002 of 7185 Old 04-08-2019, 05:27 PM
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How are the presence speakers working for you guys? It seems no matter which speaker I hook up for presence speakers the volume is way too low. I tried listening in 9 channel music mode and putting my ear the speakers during atmos content too. The volume of presence speakers at master volume of -20db is like the volume the other speakers would be at master volume -45db.

Currently I have klipsch r41sa connected. In order to get volume at about the same level as my other speakers I had to set level to +10db and go into the eq for the presence speakers and raise all the bands to the maximum of +6db. It seems like the receiver doesn’t really power any speakers connected to presence speakers well.




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I wish I could ring in here since I won't be adding Atmos speakers for at least a year. Sounds like you have something to measure sound pressure running a test and making sure they are all the speakers are set within 1db (if possible) or so. Of course have the receiver do the test tones of each speaker as you measure the level of sound coming from each speaker. Since I won't have my 3060 set up for about another month, I have no way of knowing how the 3060 handles the level of audio for presence speakers.

How do the surrounds sound when you watch a 5.1 or 7.1 movie that's known to have lots of rear channel audio like Resident Evil: Afterlife? I know many Atmos movies don't have much height audio, but there are a few movies known to be great demo material for Atmos.

The Best Five Dolby Atmos Movies Of All Time https://www.samma3a.com/tech/en/five...-atmos-movies/

I'm only suggesting the above link since I'm not sure where the presence channels get their audio source. Of course I'm guessing Atmos and presence are two entirely different effects.

In that case, are you letting the receiver know you have presence speakers hooked up? (I know, dumb question.)

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post #7003 of 7185 Old 04-08-2019, 05:39 PM
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I wish I could ring in here since I won't be adding Atmos speakers for at least a year. Sounds like you have something to measure sound pressure running a test and making sure they are all the speakers are set within 1db (if possible) or so. Of course have the receiver do the test tones of each speaker as you measure the level of sound coming from each speaker. Since I won't have my 3060 set up for about another month, I have no way of knowing how the 3060 handles the level of audio for presence speakers.



How do the surrounds sound when you watch a 5.1 or 7.1 movie that's known to have lots of rear channel audio like Resident Evil: Afterlife? I know many Atmos movies don't have much height audio, but there are a few movies known to be great demo material for Atmos.



The Best Five Dolby Atmos Movies Of All Time https://www.samma3a.com/tech/en/five...-atmos-movies/



I'm only suggesting the above link since I'm not sure where the presence channels get their audio source. Of course I'm guessing Atmos and presence are two entirely different effects.



In that case, are you letting the receiver know you have presence speakers hooked up? (I know, dumb question.)


The wiring for atmos speakers is the presence speakers. The surrounds are fine, loud even ,considering how close they are two the sides of the couch that’s no surprise. They have been lowered 2db in their respective levels to compensate.

I know there is audio being played back from “presence” speakers I have installed because when I put my ear to it at the ypao calibrated levels (or at any level lower than the exteme settings I have set now) I can hear the feint sounds of birds flapping,chirping and wooshing sound affects among other things from various atmos movies.

It seems strange to me that I would have to increase the eq setting of these speakers to max on every band while also setting their “levels” to max to actually match my other speakers.

I’m thinking I have a hardware issue or maybe they tuned these receivers to work with the power availabile (in which case it is underpowered in my opinion )to prevent damaging the receiver. The result is very quiet “presence speakers”. I just hope I don’t end up damaging the receiver.


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post #7004 of 7185 Old 04-08-2019, 06:05 PM
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The wiring for atmos speakers is the presence speakers. The surrounds are fine, loud even ,considering how close they are two the sides of the couch that’s no surprise. They have been lowered 2db in their respective levels to compensate.

I know there is audio being played back from “presence” speakers I have installed because when I put my ear to it at the ypao calibrated levels (or at any level lower than the exteme settings I have set now) I can hear the feint sounds of birds flapping,chirping and wooshing sound affects among other things from various atmos movies.

It seems strange to me that I would have to increase the eq setting of these speakers to max on every band while also setting their “levels” to max to actually match my other speakers.

I’m thinking I have a hardware issue or maybe they tuned these receivers to work with the power available (in which case it is underpowered in my opinion )to prevent damaging the receiver. The result is very quiet “presence speakers”. I just hope I don’t end up damaging the receiver.


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I hope you don't damage it either. There may be the case (like you said) of the receiver running out of power. I will be using a older Adcom 6000 amp to power my mains, center and surrounds to help take the load off the Yamaha 3060. Another words, the only thing the Yamaha 3060 will be driving are the back speakers (the subs are self powered.) In a year or so; I'll be adding four Atmos speakers, so the only speakers the Yamaha 3060 will be driving are the two back speakers, and the four Atmos speaker...a total of six speakers. Generally the effects channels are not as demanding. At the same time, even if the receiver was running out of power; I don't think it should be as bad as what your experiencing. Little birds are one thing, how about one of those five movies on that list with great Atmos sounding effects. In the case of the new release of the Matrix "Atmos really brings up this science-fiction movie to a new dimension, with every fight scene and bullets fired heard like they are flying above you."


However, I would check to see if there's a way to rent these versions of those movies, or just outright buy one of them.

Again, I don't have my Yamaha 3060 set up just yet, however on my older receiver, I can manually play a test signal on each speaker that helps set each speaker to the same level. In this case, I would make sure all the speakers are set to "0," then start with the front left by simply turning up the sound (volume knob) on the receiver to get to the db level you want it to be...say 74db, (others will say higher,) but then do the same with the center, but this time use the receiver's built in level adjuster for that and the rest of the speakers without moving the volume control. Set the level for that speaker to the same 74db, then again do the same with the right, right surround, left surround then check the levels of those presence separately. Later if you need to, you could always do the auto setup again.

Another thing you could do is manually check the distance. That won't make the difference your looking for, however perfect measurement does time all your sounds to arrive when they're suppose to making for more of a solid listening experience. If you have a laser measuring device, that makes things really simple such as the BOSCH glm 20. https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Compact.../dp/B01CG97GR2

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post #7005 of 7185 Old 04-08-2019, 09:53 PM
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I hope you don't damage it either. There may be the case (like you said) of the receiver running out of power. I will be using a older Adcom 6000 amp to power my mains, center and surrounds to help take the load off the Yamaha 3060. Another words, the only thing the Yamaha 3060 will be driving are the back speakers (the subs are self powered.) In a year or so; I'll be adding four Atmos speakers, so the only speakers the Yamaha 3060 will be driving are the two back speakers, and the four Atmos speaker...a total of six speakers. Generally the effects channels are not as demanding. At the same time, even if the receiver was running out of power; I don't think it should be as bad as what your experiencing. Little birds are one thing, how about one of those five movies on that list with great Atmos sounding effects. In the case of the new release of the Matrix "Atmos really brings up this science-fiction movie to a new dimension, with every fight scene and bullets fired heard like they are flying above you."





However, I would check to see if there's a way to rent these versions of those movies, or just outright buy one of them.



Again, I don't have my Yamaha 3060 set up just yet, however on my older receiver, I can manually play a test signal on each speaker that helps set each speaker to the same level. In this case, I would make sure all the speakers are set to "0," then start with the front left by simply turning up the sound (volume knob) on the receiver to get to the db level you want it to be...say 74db, (others will say higher,) but then do the same with the center, but this time use the receiver's built in level adjuster for that and the rest of the speakers without moving the volume control. Set the level for that speaker to the same 74db, then again do the same with the right, right surround, left surround then check the levels of those presence separately. Later if you need to, you could always do the auto setup again.



Another thing you could do is manually check the distance. That won't make the difference your looking for, however perfect measurement does time all your sounds to arrive when they're suppose to making for more of a solid listening experience. If you have a laser measuring device, that makes things really simple such as the BOSCH glm 20. https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Compact.../dp/B01CG97GR2


I own 2 of the five I have rewatched John wick after adding my klipsch speakers in place of my previous presence speakers at the built in calibration levels. Sound was weak when I put my ear to the speakers I could hear the effects I shoul have been able to hear from my seat. Very quiet very feint.

I’ll have to rewatch the movie IT ,I own it too. I’m sure if I rewatch either of these with my “extreme adjustments I’ll get a much better experience.

Just watched hunger games and there were some interesting over heard and 3D effects in it. The levels were at my extreme settings.

You know I think I may return these klipsch speakers and try out the svs elevation with the ceiling mount option. The specs for klipsch literally just say meets Dolby atmos specification for sensitivity and frequency response. At least svs publishes their numbers. I’m thinking these specific klipsch speakers may have a low sensitivity rating worthy of being hidden in the specs, and this may be contributing to the large volume difference between the presence speakers and the rest of my system.




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post #7006 of 7185 Old 04-08-2019, 10:26 PM
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I own 2 of the five I have rewatched John wick after adding my klipsch speakers in place of my previous presence speakers at the built in calibration levels. Sound was weak when I put my ear to the speakers I could hear the effects I shoul have been able to hear from my seat. Very quiet very feint.

I’ll have to rewatch the movie IT ,I own it too. I’m sure if I rewatch either of these with my “extreme adjustments I’ll get a much better experience.

Just watched hunger games and there were some interesting over heard and 3D effects in it. The levels were at my extreme settings.

You know I think I may return these klipsch speakers and try out the svs elevation with the ceiling mount option. The specs for klipsch literally just say meets Dolby atmos specification for sensitivity and frequency response. At least svs publishes their numbers. I’m thinking these specific klipsch speakers may have a low sensitivity rating worthy of being hidden in the specs, and this may be contributing to the large volume difference between the presence speakers and the rest of my system.




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I may have missed it, however I'm not familiar with the Klipsch speakers you have. Are they mounted on the ceiling? Or, are they placed on your mains, aimed upwards to bounce the audio off the ceiling?

Even if you did a auto audio level with the included microphone (I'm assuming that of course) you might want to go in and see what level each and every speaker is set at. I would go out and get a SPL meter and see if the auto setup is way off, or close. Set it to C weighting and the response to slow.

I'm not an expert, but I would try to get the levels set with each channel to not be more different than + or - 1/2db or 1db at worse. I'm not talking about what's showing on the receiver, I'm talking about actual sound pressure coming from the speaker.


You should be able to level match all your speakers, or if you don't want to get a SPL meter or can't, try listening by ear. Start with one speaker at at a moderate level (running pink noise,) then automatically switch to each speaker to see if each speaker plays at about the same level. If those Atmos channels are playing about as loud as the other channels, then the issue could be either the artist's intent, or you may have a setting in your Blu-ray player that's preventing the audio of those Atmos channels to pass through correctly.

Glad to learn you have at least one of those suggested Atmos titles. Yes, after checking all what I wrote about above, I would try playing IT, or Hunger Games in those certain areas (without the extreme settings) to see if that makes a difference. And again, check to see if your Blu-ray player is outputting the digital signal (so that your receiver decodes the signal,) make sure your Blu-ray player is not doing the decoding.

Even at that, try again with all the settings in the Blu-ray player to make sure there's nothing preventing the surround sound (Atmos) channels from being blocked in some way...full digital output to receiver so the receiver does the decoding...manually check by ear when the receiver plays pink noise around the room and see if the sound level is about the same on all the speakers.

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post #7007 of 7185 Old 04-14-2019, 10:26 PM
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Is there a way to separately select (switch between) the HDMI AV1 and the analogue AV1?



I'd like to use the HDMI AV1 to hook up a Blu-ray player, and I'd like to use the regular analogue AV1 to hook up a VHS machine.




Thanks.

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post #7008 of 7185 Old 04-15-2019, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Thebarnman View Post
Is there a way to separately select (switch between) the HDMI AV1 and the analogue AV1?

I'd like to use the HDMI AV1 to hook up a Blu-ray player, and I'd like to use the regular analogue AV1 to hook up a VHS machine.

Thanks.
Yes
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post #7009 of 7185 Old 04-15-2019, 09:58 PM
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Thanks next question if you don't mind or anyone else who may want to ring it...

I have a MiniDisc unit that I'd like to hook up to the Yamaha 3060.

I remember when it used to be simple. If I had a tape deck connected to a older receiver, I'd connect cables from the record output (on the tape out) to the recorder input, and all I had to do was flip a switch on the receiver to let it send what ever audio source was playing to the recorder.

I don't see a tape in or out on the back of the 3060. My MD unit has both a optical input and output, and a analog input and output.

Are there separate connections such as an output (for both digital and analog) on the 3060 that's always on so no matter what audio source I'm listening to; I'd be able to record to MiniDisc?

Movies must be OAR, sports and movies must also have 5.1 audio, No EE or NO SALE!
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post #7010 of 7185 Old 04-16-2019, 09:12 AM
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Thanks next question if you don't mind or anyone else who may want to ring it...

Spoiler!
Your manual will describe all connections on the back of the unit. Hint: PRE OUTs.

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post #7011 of 7185 Old 04-16-2019, 01:42 PM
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Problems with RX-A2060

I have been experiencing some problems switching from one input on my receiver. For example, switching from Apple TV to Comcast sometimes I get sound no picture. Some times pic no sound. The receiver seems to have a mind of its own lately where I have to re-boot a lot. This is new, it’s been smooth sailing for a couple years.

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post #7012 of 7185 Old 04-16-2019, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
Your manual will describe all connections on the back of the unit. Hint: PRE OUTs.
Thanks for that. However at the same time; I'm going to be using the pre-outs to a separate amplifier to take the load off the 3060. I'll be using the pre-outs for the mains (L&R,) Center and the two surrounds. The only speakers the 3060 will actually be driving will be the two back speakers. Next year in addition to the two back speakers; the 3060 will also be driving four Atmos speakers.

I do see there's a couple zone pre-outs, but I believe that's for the Atmos channels. But it is listed as being Zone Out/Pre-Out...so maybe that can be assignable.


Thanks, I'll look into that.

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post #7013 of 7185 Old 04-16-2019, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Silverfoxvtx View Post
I have been experiencing some problems switching from one input on my receiver. For example, switching from Apple TV to Comcast sometimes I get sound no picture. Some times pic no sound. The receiver seems to have a mind of its own lately where I have to re-boot a lot. This is new, it’s been smooth sailing for a couple years.
No image, (or no sound, either one), is a sign of a failed HDCP handshake. Its a brave new world of inconvenience. It may not be the AVR at all, lets blame the Comcrap box! Cable boxes are infamous for messing up handshakes.

Anyway, be sure the AVR is set to "Direct" video, no processing. I doubt there are any relevant settings in the cable box, but if there are you can try them. Avoid settings set to "auto". Last but not least, swap out both the HDMI cables - the ones from cable box to AVR, AND the one from AVR to TV. I suggest you get some new Premium Certified cables from Monoprice or the like.
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post #7014 of 7185 Old 04-17-2019, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post
No image, (or no sound, either one), is a sign of a failed HDCP handshake. Its a brave new world of inconvenience. It may not be the AVR at all, lets blame the Comcrap box! Cable boxes are infamous for messing up handshakes.

Anyway, be sure the AVR is set to "Direct" video, no processing. I doubt there are any relevant settings in the cable box, but if there are you can try them. Avoid settings set to "auto". Last but not least, swap out both the HDMI cables - the ones from cable box to AVR, AND the one from AVR to TV. I suggest you get some new Premium Certified cables from Monoprice or the like.
Thanks for the comeback, I have HDMI cables from Blue Jeans. What settings in the receiver should not be set to Auto? I am heading down to get a new cable box.

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post #7015 of 7185 Old 04-17-2019, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Silverfoxvtx View Post
Thanks for the comeback, I have HDMI cables from Blue Jeans. What settings in the receiver should not be set to Auto? I am heading down to get a new cable box.
Wait and see how the new box behaves. There's nothing in the AVR video settings to change other than having it set to "direct".
Make sure the Yamaha is set to HDMI Mode-1 in advanced settings.
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post #7016 of 7185 Old 04-18-2019, 06:22 AM
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Thanks for the comeback, I have HDMI cables from Blue Jeans. What settings in the receiver should not be set to Auto? I am heading down to get a new cable box.
It does not matter who made your cables. If they are not Premium Certified with the hologram sticker on their packages, they could be the cause of your handshake failures. Real PC cables are cheap from Monoprice and others.
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post #7017 of 7185 Old 04-18-2019, 06:52 AM
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post #7018 of 7185 Old 04-18-2019, 09:49 AM
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Blue Jeans has the same certification. I swapped out the cables with some old Monster cables I had, still the same handshake problem.

Chuck
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post #7019 of 7185 Old 04-18-2019, 10:01 AM
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Blue Jeans has the same certification. I swapped out the cables with some old Monster cables I had, still the same handshake problem.
Do they have the HDMI.ORG certified label, and are they $5 for 10 feet long?

HDMI.org website: https://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/pr...n_Program.aspx

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post #7020 of 7185 Old 04-18-2019, 10:18 AM
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Blue Jeans has the same certification. I swapped out the cables with some old Monster cables I had, still the same handshake problem.
You haven’t told us your cable lengths yet

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