The "Official" Yamaha RX-A1060, RX-A2060 and RX-A3060 AVENTAGE AVR Thread - Page 240 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #7171 of 7207 Old 10-09-2019, 02:03 PM
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Hi everybody,


I'm seeking help with the following issue I have with my RX-A2060 avr.

When I was purchasing this unit a few years back, the plan was to hook it up eventually in my new home, which back then a distant future dream. A few years have passed and I will be moving in soon.

My needs for the system are as follows:
Main living room with 5.1.2 setup, where .2 is dolby atmos ceiling mounded speakers (Zone 1).
Bedroom - 2 speakers (Zone 2).
Kitchen - 2 speakers (Zone 3).
I don't need to use the system in all 3 zones at the same time, but I was hoping that avr's up to 3 zone support (technically up to 4, with 4th through hdmi out2) would fulfil my needs with ease.
And here's where I think I might have overestimated what this AVR is actually capable of.

My understanding was that I would be able to have the above setup with no problem but to my surprise when I started to dig through the speakers setup menu, I started to doubt I can actually get the setup I wanted.

If you look at the back of the avr, it actually says that Zones speakers (Extra Sp1 and 2) are fed from the same source as presence speakers.

Now here's the big question. If I get this correct it means that I would be able to connect only one extra zone, say Zone 2 on top of Zone 1?. But not 3 zones AND at the same time being able to have Atmos speakers in Zone 1 (living room)? Am I getting this right? If so, what are my options? Adding extra stereo amp and feed it through pre outs?

Interestingly enough, I guess it's not the maximum overall no of speakers that is an issue but the way these are being assigned across the zones. For example, with Zone 2 and Zone 3 hooked up to their designated speakers outputs (Extra Sp1 and 2), there's still 2 spare speaker outputs in Zone 1 that I don't need - Surround Back. I don't have plans to use these speakers at all.

So, here's where there might be an option to utilise those 'spare' pair of speakers as.. Dolby Atmos.

I also found the following statement in avr's manual:
To have a full effect of Dolby Atmos contents, we recommend using a speaker system with a ★ mark. However, you can also play back Dolby Atmos contents with the 7.1 system (using surround back speakers).

Does that mean that I could actually use Surround Back speakers for the ceiling and enjoy proper Dolby Atmos? If so, what is the difference between using Presence outputs and Surround Back outputs? Can someone please clarify this?

Thanks in advance.
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post #7172 of 7207 Old 10-09-2019, 02:19 PM
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@nivepl I do not own an a2060 but from what I understand, you can use the full 5.1.2 in the main zone and listen to 2 channel stereo in zones 2 and 3 when using those zone preouts. It sounds like you might be using the zone 2 and 3 speaker terminals themselves?
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post #7173 of 7207 Old 10-09-2019, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by eriksells916 View Post
I do not own an a2060 but from what I understand, you can use the full 5.1.2 in the main zone and listen to 2 channel stereo in zones 2 and 3 when using those zone preouts. It sounds like you might be using the zone 2 and 3 speaker terminals themselves?

See the thing is, I know it's technically possible to connect those surround back and drive ceiling speakers with these. But isn't it that Atmos requires actually those Presence outputs in order to work properly, instead surround back? Isn't it that instead of sounds that were meant to be driven to presence speakers I would hear only those meant for surround back? Basically I try to establish here whether the naming of the outputs has anything to do with what sounds are being pushed into particular speaker. I mean for centre or main left and right channels this is obvious. But with so many different surround/presence channels, it gets confusing to say the least.

My concern is that if I'm using surround back channels as 'atmos' speakers, this would actually be 7.1 not 5.1.2 setup.
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post #7174 of 7207 Old 10-09-2019, 03:35 PM
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@nivepl that was confusing. OK so this is from a quick google search hope it helps?


1. You cannot have a 5.1.2 configuration that uses rear presence as opposed to front presenc. Configure the setup as you would if configuring front presence and then choose the OVERHEAD option in the manual speaker configuration CONFIGURATIONS/LAYOUT setting. This would tell the receiver that you are using overhead speakers as opposed to front presence.

2. If you've a 5.1.2 setup then you'd only have front pressence speakers and no option to gave rear presence speakers. Simply use the LAYOUT/FRONT PRESENCE option to designate the fact that they are OVERHEAD as opposed to being FRONT HEIGHT.
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post #7175 of 7207 Old 10-09-2019, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by eriksells916 View Post
that was confusing. OK so this is from a quick google search hope it helps?


1. You cannot have a 5.1.2 configuration that uses rear presence as opposed to front presenc. Configure the setup as you would if configuring front presence and then choose the OVERHEAD option in the manual speaker configuration CONFIGURATIONS/LAYOUT setting. This would tell the receiver that you are using overhead speakers as opposed to front presence.

2. If you've a 5.1.2 setup then you'd only have front pressence speakers and no option to gave rear presence speakers. Simply use the LAYOUT/FRONT PRESENCE option to designate the fact that they are OVERHEAD as opposed to being FRONT HEIGHT.

We don't understand each other. Open the following link please: ibb.co/kD9bCwP.
I'll try to be as blunt as possible to explain what I mean.
With 5.1.2 setup and using front presence channels as overhead speakers (Atmos) I could only connect Zone 2, not Zone 3. Yes, or no?


In above linked photo, red channels are used as ceiling (overhead) speakers, green channels are used to feed Zone2, and blue are used to feed Zone 3 through external amp connected through RCA pre outs. This however is not something I am after, as this means adding extra amp to the setup and this is not preferred option;(

Last edited by nivepl; 10-09-2019 at 05:04 PM.
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post #7176 of 7207 Old 10-10-2019, 09:54 AM
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Going 5.1.2 from 5.1. Purchased ELAC Debut 2.0 A4.2 for front. Know they are the bounce type, but was restricted to those. 5.1 already amazing, but wanted to add new listening dimension. 4K Amazon Fire Stick will be source of most dedicated ATMOS sources. Am I correct in that DTS-Neural X will decode 5.1 to simulate 5.1.2?

How to I assign these within the Yamaha RX-A3060? And any tips for setup of speakers? Room is pretty solid for these types of speakers. Flat ceiling, not too high, not too far from speakers, 9.8 ft. Not as good as in ceilings, I realize.

Thanks.

Man Cave HT: Yamaha RX-A3060 | Chane A5RX-C | Chane A2.4 | Chane A1.4 | HSU VTF-3 MK5 HP
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post #7177 of 7207 Old 10-10-2019, 11:10 PM
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Hi Everyone!

Sorry it's been a LONG time. I bought a Yamaha RX-A3060 before Christmas and then I had health issues which prevented me from pulling my old receiver and installing the new. I bought it refurbished from accessoriesforless and it has an 18 month warranty. I am about 11 months into that. I plugged it in and turned it on around Christmas time but that's all I did.

After my emergency stomach surgery and hard recovery, I was then dealing with electrical issues in the house that further delayed everything. Finally, last night, I plugged everything into the Yamaha and now it is turned on and working. As mentioned I have an old Adcom GFA-555 external amp. I always leave it on because I'm lazy I guess. My previous receiver was a Sony ES STR-ZA5000ES. When I turned on my previous receiver, I would hear a POP sound because my external amp was on. It wasn't a loud damaging pop. When I turned on the Yamaha, the POP was a bit louder. The worrying part is that on the Yamaha, every time I switch inputs, I get a pop from the amp. On my Sony ES, I never got pops while changing inputs. So do I have a problem with the receiver or is it a problem with the amp?

I remember having a Yamaha RX-V3300 good ole receiver but it would NOT work with this Adcom amp and the tech told me why and that Yamaha RX-V3300 is still in the basement somewhere. I hate to think of it but do I need a newer or more updated receiver? It worked fine on the Sony ES. It's the time of year where I start buying Christmas presents and I don't want to have to buy a new amp right now.

I have not ran the setup yet on the receiver. I haven't set it up as a 7.2.4 receiver and I plan to do that tomorrow. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!
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post #7178 of 7207 Old 10-12-2019, 07:19 AM
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Update to internet radio -
Yesterday all my old Favorites showed up in the folder and are there today. AFAIK, I did nothing to cause a restore, do not even know if there is such a thing.
Internet radio app is now running as before, except is seems faster to start up than previously.
Many channels sound much better than my local FM. Local all-classical station (WCRB) uses such heavy compression as to be mostly unlistenable, except maybe in a car. Listening now to Audiophile Baroque, based in Athens, sounds very good.

Happy camper again.
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post #7179 of 7207 Old 10-12-2019, 04:01 PM
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So long as everything with HDMI is running into the AVR, and the TV is running through HDMI OUT, you ought to be able to tune the TV to the game (over the air? 75 ohm cable into the TV?) while still playing music on the Apple TV. If switching inputs on the TV switches the AVR to the TV HDMI-ARC audio, then select the input for the ATV again. If this insists on changing the TV, then turn off HDMI Control (aka HDMI-CEC) on teh AVR and try again. Should work.
I'm trying to do the same thing: Watch one source and listen to another. Specifically, I want to watch Apple TV video while listening to AirPlay audio. (I get so sick of college football announcers who feel like they have to fill every single microsecond with their vapid chatter and would rather listen to the radio coverage for audio.)

It's hard to believe you can't do this with a flagship receiver like the 3060, but for the life of me I can't figure out how. I've looked through every screen on the browser-based setup menu, the AV Controller app, the front panel, the remote, you name it.

Frustrated and wide open to suggestions. (Yes, I can always route a different HDMI cable to the TV and switch its source but at the moment everything runs through the 3060 and I'd prefer to keep it that way.)

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post #7180 of 7207 Old 10-13-2019, 01:43 AM
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I'm trying to do the same thing: Watch one source and listen to another. Specifically, I want to watch Apple TV video while listening to AirPlay audio. (I get so sick of college football announcers who feel like they have to fill every single microsecond with their vapid chatter and would rather listen to the radio coverage for audio.)

It's hard to believe you can't do this with a flagship receiver like the 3060, but for the life of me I can't figure out how. I've looked through every screen on the browser-based setup menu, the AV Controller app, the front panel, the remote, you name it.

Frustrated and wide open to suggestions. (Yes, I can always route a different HDMI cable to the TV and switch its source but at the moment everything runs through the 3060 and I'd prefer to keep it that way.)
While listening to Airplay hit the Option button on remote. Go to Input Settings. Change Video Out to Apple TV.
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post #7181 of 7207 Old 10-13-2019, 01:45 AM
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While listening to Airplay hit the Option button on remote. Go to Input Settings. Change Video Out to Apple TV.


Huge thanks! Will put this into practice tomorrow.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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post #7182 of 7207 Old 10-13-2019, 01:48 AM
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Huge thanks! Will put this into practice tomorrow.


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Welcome.
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post #7183 of 7207 Old 10-18-2019, 04:48 PM
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Amplifier Configuration

Ok, I've owned this AVR for quite sometime and a RX-A1000 before that and I thought I knew these Yamahas thoroughly. Well, I have to humbly admit I do not. I recently bought another amplifier to setup an additional zone (Zone3 via pre-outs). I originally had a 5.2.4 system in the main zone and a zone 2 setup with the main set as 7.2.4 ext. [Front]. I was pretty sure Zone 3 would not work configured that way and this was confirmed that anything X.X.4 prevented Zone 3 from working. Now here is what I don't understand. If I select the [Basic] amplifier configuration everything thing seems to work as I desire. The main zone is 5.2.4 , Zone 2 works with preamp Zone2 outputs and Zone 3 works with Preamp Zone3 outputs. I cannot find anything in the manual that adequately explains this. I just want to ensure this is correct as I do not want to sacrifice the full functionality of the main zone. Any advice or recommendations are welcome.

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by whitey019; 10-18-2019 at 05:57 PM.
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post #7184 of 7207 Old 10-18-2019, 05:33 PM
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Ok, I've owned this AVR for quite sometime and a RX-A1000 before that and I thought I knew it thoroughly. Well, I have to humbly admit I do not. I recently bought another amplifier to setup an additional zone (Zone3 via pre-outs). I originally had a 5.2.4 system in the main zone and a zone 2 setup with the main set as 7.2.4 ext. [Front]. I was pretty sure Zone 3 would not work configured that way and this was confirmed that anything X.X.4 prevented Zone 3 from working. Now here is what I don't understand. If I select the [Basic] amplifier configuration everything thing seems to work as I desire. The main zone is 5.2.4 , Zone 2 works with preamp Zone2 outputs and Zone 3 works with Preamp Zone3 outputs. I cannot find anything in the manual that adequately explains this. I just want to ensure this is correct as I do not want to sacrifice the full functionality of the main zone. Any advice or recommendations are welcome.

Thanks in advance.
If you have your back speakers connected to SURROUND BACK and not R. PRESENCE that should work fine (technically 7.2.2). The only thing I think you lose is when Zone 2 is turned on it kills the output to the surround back speakers. That should be easy enough to test.

The closest thing in the manual is probably 7.2.2 + 1 Zone on page 32 which doesn't show that you can also run Zone 3 on the pre-outs.
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post #7185 of 7207 Old 10-18-2019, 05:44 PM
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If you have your back speakers connected to SURROUND BACK and not R. PRESENCE that should work fine (technically 7.2.2). The only thing I think you lose is when Zone 2 is turned on it kills the output to the surround back speakers. That should be easy enough to test.

The closest thing in the manual is probably 7.2.2 + 1 Zone on page 32 which doesn't show that you can also run Zone 3 on the pre-outs.
I do not have any surround back speakers ( Just L, R, C, SL, SR, FPL, FPR, RPL, RPR, SW). Both Zone 2 & 3 are using pre-outs.
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post #7186 of 7207 Old 10-19-2019, 11:26 AM
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I do not have any surround back speakers ( Just L, R, C, SL, SR, FPL, FPR, RPL, RPR, SW). Both Zone 2 & 3 are using pre-outs.
Have you tried listening to different sources on main, zone2, and zone3 at the same time? Keep in mind that the FP and RP speaker outputs can also be used for zone2 or zone3 depending on the configuration.

When you have both front & back presence speakers enabled they should take over those zone2 & zone3 pre-outs when the main zone is on. Not sure what happens when the main zone is off.
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post #7187 of 7207 Old 10-19-2019, 01:40 PM
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Have you tried listening to different sources on main, zone2, and zone3 at the same time? Keep in mind that the FP and RP speaker outputs can also be used for zone2 or zone3 depending on the configuration.

When you have both front & back presence speakers enabled they should take over those zone2 & zone3 pre-outs when the main zone is on. Not sure what happens when the main zone is off.
I'm ok if Zone3 only works if the main zone is off, which is what seems to be happening. I just don't understand the 'Basic' configuration option and why it exists.
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post #7188 of 7207 Old 10-21-2019, 01:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitey019 View Post
Ok, I've owned this AVR for quite sometime and a RX-A1000 before that and I thought I knew these Yamahas thoroughly. Well, I have to humbly admit I do not. I recently bought another amplifier to setup an additional zone (Zone3 via pre-outs). I originally had a 5.2.4 system in the main zone and a zone 2 setup with the main set as 7.2.4 ext. [Front]. I was pretty sure Zone 3 would not work configured that way and this was confirmed that anything X.X.4 prevented Zone 3 from working. Now here is what I don't understand. If I select the [Basic] amplifier configuration everything thing seems to work as I desire. The main zone is 5.2.4 , Zone 2 works with preamp Zone2 outputs and Zone 3 works with Preamp Zone3 outputs. I cannot find anything in the manual that adequately explains this. I just want to ensure this is correct as I do not want to sacrifice the full functionality of the main zone. Any advice or recommendations are welcome.

Thanks in advance.
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I do not have any surround back speakers ( Just L, R, C, SL, SR, FPL, FPR, RPL, RPR, SW). Both Zone 2 & 3 are using pre-outs.
First, you don't mention it, but you are referring to an A3060.

If you don't have Surround Back speakers, then the "7.2.4 (EXT Front)" is not the correct AMP ASSIGN setting as that presumes you are using 11 speakers in the main zone, which you are not, rather instead you should be using the "BASIC" setting for your 9 speaker setup.
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post #7189 of 7207 Old 10-21-2019, 07:09 PM
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Yes it's a RX-A3060 and thanks. I guess I just picked 7.2.4 (Front) initially because there wasn't a 5.2.4 (Front) and it didn't matter at the time.
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post #7190 of 7207 Old 10-26-2019, 09:48 AM
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Is the Tidal app on the 3060 capable of playing Tidal Masters in enhanced quality?
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post #7191 of 7207 Old 10-30-2019, 10:35 AM
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Looking for an easy way to get Tidal MQA to my 3060. For some reason my stupid Windows 10 laptop will not see my Yamaha as an audio device (all windows and driver updates are installed). Seems silly to have to buy an external DAC, when the 3060 has a very good ESS inside.
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post #7192 of 7207 Old 10-31-2019, 07:37 AM
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Looking for an easy way to get Tidal MQA to my 3060. For some reason my stupid Windows 10 laptop will not see my Yamaha as an audio device (all windows and driver updates are installed). Seems silly to have to buy an external DAC, when the 3060 has a very good ESS inside.
can you connect the pc with an optical cable or hdmi?
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post #7193 of 7207 Old 10-31-2019, 10:27 AM
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Unhappy Ongoing no sound from TV to amp, no controls/power on/off, ARC/CEC issue

Setup
Sony KD-75 (originally the 2016 now the 2018 model) KD-75XF9005 -issue recurs
Yamaha RX-A3060 - issue occured with hdmi mode 2 default, very recently switching to HDMI mode 1 for apple tv 4k passthrough of dolby vision has not solved issue.
I had a Yamaha RX-A3080 for 6 weeks loan, had sound from tv, bravia sync all worked, devices in bravia list, remote control codes and group power on/off all worked, there was no issue during 6 weeks with loaner 3080 amp.
QED high end HDMI arc cable, now 2x as had 2nd one installed -issue recurs on either cable
Panasonic Bluray DMP-UB900 (2016 4K highend player)
added chromecast and later apple tv 4k but issue predates that hardware
Adding Optical or another cable is not really a possibility due to install. Plus needing all the remotes to do anything is a total pain.


I've had a recurrent problem with my setup from month1, now ongoing for 3 years. After a few weeks the amp stops receiving sound from the TV - and it stays that way. Then HiFi store that installed everything & sold all gear comes out lends me a interim amp. They take my RXA3060 off, test it say it's fine, then reinstall it and it works for a while until it fails a few weeks later. It seems to be a cec/arc failure because the remote commands for other hardware, and turn on/off together, no longer go through either, and inside the Sony the Bravia sync list no longer shows any devices.

Richer Sounds is extremely reluctant to upgrade my problematic 3060 (which they say by now has a value now of £0 - yet 34months after I first reported the problems) to the 3080 loaner which has worked fine for weeks while my 3060 was being tested (not by yamaha as yet), given the amount of grief and lost work days this has cost me I am not content with this stance - I paid for a working install - I still don't have a working install.

So firstly hardware question -has anyone solved a similar ARC/CEC issue & if so how?

Secondly, does anyone have experience with Richer Sounds? - I like the guys at my local shop, I see them trying to help and I don't want necessarily to cause problems for them, but 3 years of problems is frankly a bit much, and the policy of not replacing the amp seems the stumbling block - In anyone else's experience am I going to get a solution by complaining to head office, or just potentially be left with the problem and a local store that no longer wants to help?
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post #7194 of 7207 Old 10-31-2019, 11:49 AM
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Setup
Sony KD-75 (originally the 2016 now the 2018 model) KD-75XF9005 -issue recurs
Yamaha RX-A3060 - issue occured with hdmi mode 2 default, very recently switching to HDMI mode 1 for apple tv 4k passthrough of dolby vision has not solved issue.
I had a Yamaha RX-A3080 for 6 weeks loan, had sound from tv, bravia sync all worked, devices in bravia list, remote control codes and group power on/off all worked, there was no issue during 6 weeks with loaner 3080 amp.
QED high end HDMI arc cable, now 2x as had 2nd one installed -issue recurs on either cable
Panasonic Bluray DMP-UB900 (2016 4K highend player)
added chromecast and later apple tv 4k but issue predates that hardware
Adding Optical or another cable is not really a possibility due to install. Plus needing all the remotes to do anything is a total pain.


I've had a recurrent problem with my setup from month1, now ongoing for 3 years. After a few weeks the amp stops receiving sound from the TV - and it stays that way. Then HiFi store that installed everything & sold all gear comes out lends me a interim amp. They take my RXA3060 off, test it say it's fine, then reinstall it and it works for a while until it fails a few weeks later. It seems to be a cec/arc failure because the remote commands for other hardware, and turn on/off together, no longer go through either, and inside the Sony the Bravia sync list no longer shows any devices.

Richer Sounds is extremely reluctant to upgrade my problematic 3060 (which they say by now has a value now of £0 - yet 34months after I first reported the problems) to the 3080 loaner which has worked fine for weeks while my 3060 was being tested (not by yamaha as yet), given the amount of grief and lost work days this has cost me I am not content with this stance - I paid for a working install - I still don't have a working install.

So firstly hardware question -has anyone solved a similar ARC/CEC issue & if so how?

Secondly, does anyone have experience with Richer Sounds? - I like the guys at my local shop, I see them trying to help and I don't want necessarily to cause problems for them, but 3 years of problems is frankly a bit much, and the policy of not replacing the amp seems the stumbling block - In anyone else's experience am I going to get a solution by complaining to head office, or just potentially be left with the problem and a local store that no longer wants to help?
I should say I just want a working system, with the Yamaha sound I've liked since my first Yammy DSP A2070 - I don't care at all whether it's with a rxa3060 or a 3080 I just want a system where I can get sound from the TV to the amp and all the ARC & CEC stuff works reliably.
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post #7195 of 7207 Old 10-31-2019, 08:10 PM
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Hi guys,

I have a 3060 avr and i can't get my alexa echo dot gen 3 to play music properly via music cast, it only can turn on/off and slip songs.

Any sugestions?
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post #7196 of 7207 Old 11-02-2019, 05:05 PM
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Hi just want to ask about my sub levels.

I have my sub knob at 12 noon and after YPAO calibration it set the sub level at the avr to -7.5

I went to the Manual Setup>Level and added 4dB so it's now at -3.5 and after that I went to Option>Subwoofer/Bass>Subwoofer Trim still added +6. So it's a total of 10dB added.

Is this fine regarding clipping? Thanks

Last edited by xb243; 11-02-2019 at 05:11 PM.
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post #7197 of 7207 Old 11-10-2019, 09:53 AM
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Got an audio question for my 3060.



Ive got 3 audio profiles set up fir video:



Scene 1: TV - for watching standard TV using Directv box.
Scene 2: HTPC: for watching movies off my HTPC.
Scene 3: for streaming using on-board Netflix and Amazon Prime video on my TV



Im using the ARC port on my TV going into my receiver for the on-board apps. My problem is this: Due to audio requirements for ARC, I have Scene 3 set up to use AVI1. Whenever I turn on Scene 1 or 2, after about 20 secs, the receiver switches to AVI1, cutting off sound for Scene 1 and 2. Its an easy fix with my Harmony, as I just hit fix it myself, Receiver, Scene 1 or 2, where it switches back to those Scenes.


Its not a huge deal, just annoying. Any ideas how to stop this from happening? I tried turning HDMI control off, which works, but it appears that turns ARC off, so no audio for on-board TV apps.


Any ideas?

My system: Yamaha RX-A3060, Emotiva XPA-2, Salk Song3, Salk Songcenter RT, Polk FXiA6, Rythmik FV15HP, Intel i7 HTPC running JRiver Media Center
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post #7198 of 7207 Old 11-10-2019, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xb243 View Post
Hi just want to ask about my sub levels.

I have my sub knob at 12 noon and after YPAO calibration it set the sub level at the avr to -7.5

I went to the Manual Setup>Level and added 4dB so it's now at -3.5 and after that I went to Option>Subwoofer/Bass>Subwoofer Trim still added +6. So it's a total of 10dB added.

Is this fine regarding clipping? Thanks

No, thats not proper. You need to back down on your sub from noon a couple of notches (to turn it down) and re-run YPAO until it calibrates at 0.0 with no more than +/- 2. From there, if you need more bass, turn up the db on the reciever.
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My system: Yamaha RX-A3060, Emotiva XPA-2, Salk Song3, Salk Songcenter RT, Polk FXiA6, Rythmik FV15HP, Intel i7 HTPC running JRiver Media Center
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post #7199 of 7207 Old 11-10-2019, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
First, you don't mention it, but you are referring to an A3060.

If you don't have Surround Back speakers, then the "7.2.4 (EXT Front)" is not the correct AMP ASSIGN setting as that presumes you are using 11 speakers in the main zone, which you are not, rather instead you should be using the "BASIC" setting for your 9 speaker setup.

JD- is basic the correct setup if only using 5.1.4 with no zones, and using an amp for front L/R?

My system: Yamaha RX-A3060, Emotiva XPA-2, Salk Song3, Salk Songcenter RT, Polk FXiA6, Rythmik FV15HP, Intel i7 HTPC running JRiver Media Center
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post #7200 of 7207 Old 11-10-2019, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackangst View Post
Got an audio question for my 3060.



Ive got 3 audio profiles set up fir video:



Scene 1: TV - for watching standard TV using Directv box.
Scene 2: HTPC: for watching movies off my HTPC.
Scene 3: for streaming using on-board Netflix and Amazon Prime video on my TV



Im using the ARC port on my TV going into my receiver for the on-board apps. My problem is this: Due to audio requirements for ARC, I have Scene 3 set up to use AVI1. Whenever I turn on Scene 1 or 2, after about 20 secs, the receiver switches to AVI1, cutting off sound for Scene 1 and 2. Its an easy fix with my Harmony, as I just hit fix it myself, Receiver, Scene 1 or 2, where it switches back to those Scenes.


Its not a huge deal, just annoying. Any ideas how to stop this from happening? I tried turning HDMI control off, which works, but it appears that turns ARC off, so no audio for on-board TV apps.


Any ideas?
The easiest way to be rid of CEC problems is to shut it off and use Optical from the TV to AVR.
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1060 , a3060 , arc , computer , dolby atmos , lgtv , OLED65C6P , RX-A1060 , RX-A3060 , savant , Sonos , Yamaha , yamaha 1060

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