The "OFFICIAL" Yamaha TSR-7810/RX-v781 Owner's thread. - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 2051 Old 12-06-2016, 09:19 PM
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I also have a question for someone to answer...Is it possible to apply video processing on a per input basis or does one have to apply it to all inputs (i.e., globally)?
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post #32 of 2051 Old 12-06-2016, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmk2888 View Post
My HDMI cables are new and most recent.
No the HDMI red light on the receiver doesn't turn off it's still on while the video goes out.

As I use my unit more more, the black outs are happening less and less.
After more and more research, my HDMI cables are to blame for my black outs.
I have force the receiver to output 4K at 4:4:4 (mode 1) and my HDMI cables are 18gb but not 4:4:4 certified.
During my recent email to Monoprice, they replied, "Unfortunately the only cables we have that would be capable of 4:4:4 would be our Certified Premium cables.

All of our other 18gb cables would only support 4:2:0,"

Looks like I have to exchange my cables, wish me luck...
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post #33 of 2051 Old 12-07-2016, 08:26 AM
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what is the difference between the TSR-7810 and the RX-A760BL?
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post #34 of 2051 Old 12-07-2016, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Grier View Post
what is the difference between the TSR-7810 and the RX-A760BL?

The main difference is that the 7810 has 7.2-channel preamp outputs, and perhaps (although I haven't checked), one less digital input.
UPDATE: The 7810 also has a second HDMI output, whereas the 760 only has one. Both have the same number of HDMI and digital inputs. The 760, however, has a fifth foot on the bottom middle of the receiver (to further reduce vibrations), as well as a detachable power cord, if those things are important to you. For me, the preamp outputs and second HDMI output on the 7810 are way more valuable than what the 760 has over it.

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post #35 of 2051 Old 12-07-2016, 09:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, I ran across something tonight that is somewhat of a short-coming on the 7810, but it may not affect a lot of you out there. I have a JVC D-VHS deck that can output a 1080i signal through its component output. I have the D-VHS deck connected to the component AV1 input on the Yamaha, but I did not connect a component video out to the TV from the Yamaha, assuming that this receiver transcodes the component video input signals to the HDMI outputs. My 2011 NAD T757 could do this, but apparently this 2016 Yamaha cannot. I could not get the video to show up on my LG flat screen for quite a while until I forced the VCR to output 480i. Only then did I get video to show up on the TV. Apparently, the Yamaha can up-convert 480i to 4K through the HDMI, but it cannot transmit signals from the component inputs higher than 480i and output them through the HDMI outputs. This is shown on page 141 of the TSR-7810 manual. Even the Yamaha RX-A1050 handles component video this way. It's totally weird and a bit disappointing, but not enough to make me return it. I have a bunch of D-Theater movies in 1080i, and I have to down-convert them to 480i on the JVC deck, only to have them up-converted to 1080p by the Yamaha. The resulting video still looks pretty darn good, but it's not quite as crisp as I remember it to be with the NAD at 1080i.

Yea, that's a drag. Maybe a converter might work better than a down-convert and then a up-convert.


https://www.amazon.com/Zepthus-Compo...HDMI+Converter


http://www.hdtvsupply.com/rgbrlhd.html


Robert
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post #36 of 2051 Old 12-07-2016, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by MrSanRamon View Post
Yea, that's a drag. Maybe a converter might work better than a down-convert and then a up-convert.


https://www.amazon.com/Zepthus-Compo...HDMI+Converter


http://www.hdtvsupply.com/rgbrlhd.html


Robert
Robert, yeah, that might be an option and thanks for the suggestion, but 1) all of my HDMI inputs are taken up by other components (except the front one), and 2) that's one more wall-wart I'll have to plug in somewhere! I'd have to upgrade to the RX-A860 to get two more HDMI inputs. It would be a lot easier if Yamaha could fix this with a firmware update, but that's not likely to happen considering it would have to be implemented across all their lines.
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post #37 of 2051 Old 12-07-2016, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Comparison...7810 to v760, not a lot of differences:
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post #38 of 2051 Old 12-07-2016, 10:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N2AUDIO View Post
I also have a question for someone to answer...Is it possible to apply video processing on a per input basis or does one have to apply it to all inputs (i.e., globally)?


It can be done per input...I think. Will have too check.




No, it's universal...direct or "processing" on all inputs.


Robert

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post #39 of 2051 Old 12-07-2016, 10:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmk2888 View Post
After more and more research, my HDMI cables are to blame for my black outs....


Some of these aren't too expensive: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...2.2+hdmi+cable+

If you try a 4K cable, post on how it works.


Thanks.

Robert
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post #40 of 2051 Old 12-07-2016, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSanRamon View Post
Some of these aren't too expensive: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...2.2+hdmi+cable+

If you try a 4K cable, post on how it works.


Thanks.

Robert
Here http://www.soundandvision.com/conten...eY1Pjeqy3KP.97 is the only trustworthy comparison of HDMI cables that I know of. I suggest you read this article and select your HDMI cable based on this study.

Anál nathrach, orth’ bháis’s bethad, do chél dénmha
Display: LG OLED 65e6p, Player: OPPO UDP-203, AVR:Yamaha TSR 7810, Streaming: Comcast 60Mbps RG6 to Cat6a, Speakers: Mains Vandersteen IIC, Center, Surrounds, Rears Klipsch
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post #41 of 2051 Old 12-07-2016, 11:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Postmoderndesign View Post
I suggest you read this article and select your HDMI cable based on this study.


The only thing is that most of these are really expensive and there are a lot of other manufacturers that sell (supposed) conforming cables that weren't
tested.


Not saying one should buy the cheapest cables possible, but perhaps trying some to see if they work might be OK.


Robert
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post #42 of 2051 Old 12-07-2016, 11:36 AM
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It can be done per input...I think. Will have too check.




No, it's universal...direct or "processing" on all inputs.


Robert
That's what I was thinking; it'd be nice to have it applied individually as an option. Can't see that it would be too hard to implement with a firmware fix. Yamaha, are you listening??!!
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post #43 of 2051 Old 12-07-2016, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSanRamon View Post
The only thing is that most of these are really expensive and there are a lot of other manufacturers that sell (supposed) conforming cables that weren't
tested.


Not saying one should buy the cheapest cables possible, but perhaps trying some to see if they work might be OK.


Robert
I will quote a post from Otto Pylot today:
"Cable specs, for the most part, are just carefully worded market-speak to convince the customer that they are purchasing the best that there is. Most of the specs given are nothing more than the HDMI 2.0a hardware specs regurgitated. Even properly certified cables are not 100% guaranteed to deliver the promised performance given distance, bend radius, connected hardware, etc. It would appear that for distances longer than about 20' the fiber optic cables have a better track record than any copper wire, but they are pricey."

But there is always the possibility an untested cable will work. If you find one post it.

But you might search the forum for experience with any cable before you buy it.

Anál nathrach, orth’ bháis’s bethad, do chél dénmha
Display: LG OLED 65e6p, Player: OPPO UDP-203, AVR:Yamaha TSR 7810, Streaming: Comcast 60Mbps RG6 to Cat6a, Speakers: Mains Vandersteen IIC, Center, Surrounds, Rears Klipsch
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post #44 of 2051 Old 12-07-2016, 04:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N2AUDIO View Post
Robert, yeah, that might be an option and thanks for the suggestion, but 1) all of my HDMI inputs are taken up by other components (except the front one), and 2) that's one more wall-wart I'll have to plug in somewhere! I'd have to upgrade to the RX-A860 to get two more HDMI inputs. It would be a lot easier if Yamaha could fix this with a firmware update, but that's not likely to happen considering it would have to be implemented across all their lines.

Well, there are always auto sensing hdmi switches...


https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_st_r...rt=review-rank

Robert
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post #45 of 2051 Old 12-07-2016, 04:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Postmoderndesign View Post
But there is always the possibility an untested cable will work. If you find one post it.
Again, I suggested Amazon due to the availability of suppliers, price, possibly free shipping and the ability to easily return non-complying cables.

I ask anyone with suggestions on products to inform us.

Thanks.

Robert

Take a look at post #54: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-hd...p-color-2.html

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post #46 of 2051 Old 12-07-2016, 10:19 PM
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I also got one in the Costco sale.

As far as 4K cables go, I just replaced some aging (and green-speckling at mere 1080i between TiVo and Xbox One) HDMI cables with new Amazon Basics and they work superbly (at least at the 3-10ft range) at a reasonable price. These are the two I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T4MO (10ft 2 pack) https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-...dp/B014I8SP4W/ (3ft 2 pack)

For the most part, everything is awesome. It replaced an ancient Pioneer VSX-D812K (super pre HDMI, it does have component and multichannel preamp inputs).

To get it to pass 4K HDR to my TV I had to change to Mode 1 from the default Mode 2 for 4K (Xbox One reported no HDR capability otherwise, even though the AVR itself showed the connection to TV supporting it).

I do have one annoyance: My Samsung UN65JS8500 (if I'm remembering the model right), when powering on, uses HDMI CEC to force the AVR to ARC input, even though it's not launching any apps on startup (instead going to it's video input from the AVR). This means that the audio from my Xbox One (and through it TiVo) are no longer audible and I must manually switch input to HDMI 1 after every startup. I do want ARC to work, so I must leave CEC on... this is probably an issue to lay at the Samsung's feet rather than the Yamaha's, though.

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post #47 of 2051 Old 12-08-2016, 06:44 AM
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I do want ARC to work, so I must leave CEC on... this is probably an issue to lay at the Samsung's feet rather than the Yamaha's, though.
I do think that ARC is a problematic feature regardless of the manufacturer, because there are too many "handshaking" variables for manufacturers to think about. With so many different TV manufacturers and satellite boxes and what-not, I don't think ARC has a chance to work right on a large scale. Just my opinion, but I think manufacturers should downplay the benefits of ARC and market it as less of a "feature" that only seems to be half-baked at best.
ARC difficulties aside, congratulations on your new Yamaha receiver!

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post #48 of 2051 Old 12-08-2016, 08:11 AM
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Just saying hi. My TSR 7810 just arrived today and I am excited to get it setup with my P75. I am sure I will have more questions to come.
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post #49 of 2051 Old 12-08-2016, 09:36 AM
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Just saying hi. My TSR 7810 just arrived today and I am excited to get it setup with my P75. I am sure I will have more questions to come.
Well, pull up a chair and make yourself at home! Let us know you like it once you get it set up.
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post #50 of 2051 Old 12-08-2016, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
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I do think that ARC is a problematic feature regardless of the manufacturer, because there are too many "handshaking" variables for manufacturers to think about. With so many different TV manufacturers and satellite boxes and what-not, I don't think ARC has a chance to work right on a large scale. Just my opinion, but I think manufacturers should downplay the benefits of ARC and market it as less of a "feature" that only seems to be half-baked at best.
ARC difficulties aside, congratulations on your new Yamaha receiver!
Apparently, Samsung are just stupid and force the input to themselves after power on. No fix other than perhaps setting up some kind of automation such that when the Xbox is powered on, HDMI 1 is sent to the AVR repeatedly for a minute ...
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post #51 of 2051 Old 12-08-2016, 01:12 PM
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Sounds like it is working properly. The AVR needs to know what input you want to use.
For standby through the manual says for auto, you can use the input selection keys, which
implies to me you need to select manually, or the last input would be used. When using some other
input function I would normally hit the Tv scene button prior to shutting off the avr.
You may also need to have standby sync set to auto.



For some reason the TV scene button is factory defaulted to to input av4.
I use a Comcast dvr STB connected to HDMI2.
I have also reassigned the TV scene button to use HDMI2 as the input for the tv scene.


Old Mike
Old Mike, it seems the more I play around with the "Standby Through" function the more I learn something. I mentioned before that this function works only under two conditions, namely: 1) I have to be on the Dish TV input prior to placing the Yamaha on standby, or 2) Selecting the Dish TV HDMI input button (HDMI #2 on my setup) without powering up the Yamaha. Well, it turns out that's not entirely accurate. If I power down the Yamaha while watching Dish TV, I lose the picture only for a brief moment but the Dish comes back on immediately after that while the Yamaha is in standby mode. However, if I do the same thing, but then also power the Dish TV and monitor down and leave them like that for, say a half-hour or so, and then try to turn them back on, I get no connection through the Yamaha to allow me to see a picture, even though it's in Standby Through mode. That's when I have to manually select the HDMI #2 button on the Yamaha remote so that I can view my Dish TV again. It's almost as if it "loses" its memory of what input was previously selected after a certain period of time. So, it seems that there is a period of time where the Yamaha will pass signals through while in Standby Through, but only for a while. After that, I have to remember to manually select HDMI input #2 in order to view my Dish TV on the TV set. Have you (or anyone else on this forum thread) noticed whether your Standby Through function behaves this same way?
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post #52 of 2051 Old 12-08-2016, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Have you (or anyone else on this forum thread) noticed whether your Standby Through function behaves this same way?

I don't believe mine does that, I'll have to check when I get home this evening.


Robert
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post #53 of 2051 Old 12-08-2016, 02:43 PM
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N2: I can leave it on overnight or longer in standby through, if I turn on the Comcast box and the tv, the avr
is always set to hdmi2 where I left it. This is using the Comcast remote.
Again I do not use arc or cec from the tv, unless using tv internet apps, but then turn the tv arc off,after I am done.
I have also configured the tv scene button to go to hdmi2 as the input.
HDMI control is set to on.


On another note, I love Neural X for cable 5.1, or anything else that needs the upmixer.
A totally fantastic home movie experience. Like it better than DSU, neural x is more aggressive.
There is even lots of height and side info in old 1966 star trek shows.
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Vizio-d58u-d3, Yamaha-TSR-7810
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post #54 of 2051 Old 12-08-2016, 08:58 PM
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Bluetooth disconnects frequently

I have had the TSR-7810 for about 1 month and am having issues with the bluetooth. I have several devices (iPad, Android phone) that connect to bluetooth for a few minutes and then disconnect. I have to manually connect them each time. I have placed the device on the receiver, but it still disconnects. I spoke with technical support and all they did was ask me to reset my device and check the WiFi antenna connection. But does not help. I had Costco send me a new unit. However, I am seeing the same problem. Is anyone else seeing this issue with the bluetooth?
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post #55 of 2051 Old 12-09-2016, 12:12 AM
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I tried hooking up 7810 with Def tech speakers 9060 and sound falls flat and is not able to drive enough as my old Onkyo. Anyone else have this problem?
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post #56 of 2051 Old 12-09-2016, 02:10 AM
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Okay, finally got her setup! But I'm having an issue. My Xbox says she's only reading in basic 4k, no HDR or 10 bit colour. Anyone have any ideas?

I have this cable running from my receiver to my KS8000's HDMI 1 port (audioquest pearl) http://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioque...?skuId=4619576

And then the cable that came with my Xbox one s from my HDMI 1 to my Xbox. Aren't both of these cables HDMI 2.0a?

Also, if I wanted to watch my netflix, hbo etc apps on my tv and get the 7.1 surround, would I have to hook up another cable to the ARC output on the TSR and hook the other end into HDMI 4 on the KS8000?

Thank you! I just got this setup and dying to get it to work right, LoL!
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post #57 of 2051 Old 12-09-2016, 06:00 AM
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I don't believe mine does that, I'll have to check when I get home this evening.


Robert
Good news! I turned on the TV and Dish Hopper this morning (with the Yamaha in Standby) and both units came on just like they're supposed to! So, it looks like the Simplink function of the LG wasn'the playing nice with the Yamaha. Once I turned that function off, it worked like a charm!
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post #58 of 2051 Old 12-09-2016, 07:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Attached Chart shows Resolution vs distance. Article: http://carltonbale.com/1080p-does-matter/
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post #59 of 2051 Old 12-09-2016, 01:28 PM
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Auto Calibration

Have 7810 coming from Costco and have a question about the auto calibration with the mic.. The O.M. indicates you may use from 1 measuring position up to 8 positions. Have any of you owners experimented to see which number of measurements produces the best immersive surround sound? Second question is are you happy with the bass output as setup using the auto calibration.

I have an Onkyo currently and have never been satisfied with the bass produced when using the Onkyo auto-calibration. It is an HT-180 using Audessy EQ.

Thanks,

Henry
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post #60 of 2051 Old 12-09-2016, 02:09 PM
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The TSR-7810 provides for connecting two self powered sub-woofers. I just depend on the acoustic couplers in my thirty year old Vandersteens.

You can experiment with YPAO and see if you like multiple or a single measuring positions. I think YPAO is OK and Mad Max Fury Road is growling at me adequately.

Anál nathrach, orth’ bháis’s bethad, do chél dénmha
Display: LG OLED 65e6p, Player: OPPO UDP-203, AVR:Yamaha TSR 7810, Streaming: Comcast 60Mbps RG6 to Cat6a, Speakers: Mains Vandersteen IIC, Center, Surrounds, Rears Klipsch
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amazon fire tv , hdmi (arc) , scad , vizio 2016/2017 e m & p-series displays , xbox one s , yahama , yamaha 585 , yamaha 7850

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