The "OFFICIAL" Yamaha TSR-7810/RX-v781 Owner's thread. - Page 56 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1651 of 2140 Old 05-19-2018, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by tootull View Post
I have the RX-V781 hooked up to two TV monitors with HDMI. When I turn off the second (HDMI2) monitor, I must select HDMI1only or I get drop outs at a steady pace on the main TV (HDMI1).



Cheers!Another tea-time another day older.
Ding ding ding! We have winner!!! Thank you. This is EXACTLY the information that I needed - and YES I did try connecting without the HDMI extenders in the mix.
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post #1652 of 2140 Old 05-21-2018, 10:37 AM
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Nintendo WII Component to 7810 to LG OLED65C7 HDMI

Looking for suggestions to get WII video working through 7810 to LG OLED65C7.

Have WII with analog component cables connected to 7810 (AV2).
The 7810 is connected to LG via single HDMI-1 output
XBOX, Windows Media Center, Comcast box all work with HDMI through the 7810 to the LG.

The 7810 displays states the WII at 480I @ 60Hz analog out
The TV format info shows 480I @50 (all the other combos allow 50,60,24hz)

I tried changing with Video processing options ( is this for analog to digital only?)
The goal is to keep the receiver in direct or pass through.
Note, the video on the TV continues to display the 7810 piano screen when selecting AV2 input

Shouldn't the 7810 be able to output video via HDMI
The manuals notes 480I -> 480P and more as possible HDMI output

My 7 year old Onkyo worked in this configuration (WII/LG OLED)

I am aware of the inexpensive WII -> HDMI converters.
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post #1653 of 2140 Old 05-21-2018, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mextreme View Post
Looking for suggestions to get WII video working through 7810 to LG OLED65C7.

Have WII with analog component cables connected to 7810 (AV2).
The 7810 is connected to LG via single HDMI-1 output
XBOX, Windows Media Center, Comcast box all work with HDMI through the 7810 to the LG.

The 7810 displays states the WII at 480I @ 60Hz analog out
The TV format info shows 480I @50 (all the other combos allow 50,60,24hz)

I tried changing with Video processing options ( is this for analog to digital only?)
The goal is to keep the receiver in direct or pass through.
Note, the video on the TV continues to display the 7810 piano screen when selecting AV2 input

Shouldn't the 7810 be able to output video via HDMI
The manuals notes 480I -> 480P and more as possible HDMI output

My 7 year old Onkyo worked in this configuration (WII/LG OLED)

I am aware of the inexpensive WII -> HDMI converters.
Wow that's so weird -- it should output it no problem. It might not look very good but it should do it. I can't guarantee it because i haven't even tried using my playstation 2 -- I'm not even sure if it's hooked up correctly, when i got the TSR 7810. I just switched all the inputs to similar ones.
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post #1654 of 2140 Old 05-24-2018, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by mextreme View Post
Looking for suggestions to get WII video working through 7810 to LG OLED65C7.

Have WII with analog component cables connected to 7810 (AV2).
The 7810 is connected to LG via single HDMI-1 output
XBOX, Windows Media Center, Comcast box all work with HDMI through the 7810 to the LG.

The 7810 displays states the WII at 480I @ 60Hz analog out
The TV format info shows 480I @50 (all the other combos allow 50,60,24hz)

I tried changing with Video processing options ( is this for analog to digital only?)
The goal is to keep the receiver in direct or pass through.
Note, the video on the TV continues to display the 7810 piano screen when selecting AV2 input

Shouldn't the 7810 be able to output video via HDMI
The manuals notes 480I -> 480P and more as possible HDMI output

My 7 year old Onkyo worked in this configuration (WII/LG OLED)

I am aware of the inexpensive WII -> HDMI converters.
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Originally Posted by Briguy65 View Post
Wow that's so weird -- it should output it no problem. It might not look very good but it should do it. I can't guarantee it because i haven't even tried using my playstation 2 -- I'm not even sure if it's hooked up correctly, when i got the TSR 7810. I just switched all the inputs to similar ones.
I have successfully connected my Nintendo Gamecube to my RX-781 + KS8000 via component cables. The 781 then does its thing and displays on my HDMI-only KS8000. I'm pretty sure I fiddled with a few video settings on the 781, but I cannot recall exactly which (probably the processing ones).

I'm actually not 100% clear on what you're asking in your post. Are you not getting any audio and video?
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post #1655 of 2140 Old 05-24-2018, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by pg22 View Post
I have successfully connected my Nintendo Gamecube to my RX-781 + KS8000 via component cables. The 781 then does its thing and displays on my HDMI-only KS8000. I'm pretty sure I fiddled with a few video settings on the 781, but I cannot recall exactly which (probably the processing ones).

I'm actually not 100% clear on what you're asking in your post. Are you not getting any audio and video?
The only video output I have on HDMI with the WII compontent input selected is the 7810 screen saver (piano screen).
I do hear the audio from the WII on the 7810.

Can you post the analog input values from the Nintendo and the KS8000 EDID information.

I am guessing the 7810 isn't converting to HDMI because the LG TV EDID doesn't show 480i @ 60Hz as an option
and it will not covert it for example to 480P @ 60Hz which the LG TV EDID shows as supported.
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post #1656 of 2140 Old 05-25-2018, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by mextreme View Post
The only video output I have on HDMI with the WII compontent input selected is the 7810 screen saver (piano screen).
I do hear the audio from the WII on the 7810.

Can you post the analog input values from the Nintendo and the KS8000 EDID information.

I am guessing the 7810 isn't converting to HDMI because the LG TV EDID doesn't show 480i @ 60Hz as an option
and it will not covert it for example to 480P @ 60Hz which the LG TV EDID shows as supported.
Analog input values from the Nintendo and the KS8000 EDID information? not following, sorry.
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post #1657 of 2140 Old 05-26-2018, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by pg22 View Post
Analog input values from the Nintendo and the KS8000 EDID information? not following, sorry.
On the Information Menu: The Video Signal section will show the video format being provided on the input source.
I believe the HDMI Monitor section displays the EDID information returned from you TV / monitor.
In my case, it appears the TV is reporting it only supports 480I @ 50 Hz + a lot of other combinations.
In my case, The Video Signal Section from my WII is reporting 480I @ 60 Hz.
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post #1658 of 2140 Old 05-28-2018, 09:05 AM
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I am having trouble getting a software update to work.

I recently switched my CC Speaker, so went through the process of redoing the settings with the Calibration Mic (then adjusted things a bit). While I was going through everything afterwards, I noticed that one of the Menu screens stated that there was an update available. I tried going through the process (connected via WiFi) and for about 20 minutes the front panel of the Yamaha said "Verifying" and the progress meter kept moving. Then, a "Not Found" message appeared and nothing else happened. I waited for at least another 10 minutes, but nothing changed. The AVR wouldn't respond to anything until I pressed the Power button on the front of the AVR. It then powered up, but it appears it did not upgrade (the "New Firmware Available message still appears in the same place - under Information : System option).

I tried it again a second time with the same results. This time I waited for close to 30 minutes after the "Not Found" appeared.

Any suggestions?

I will try to hook it up via Ethernet later and try again, but not sure if that's the issue.
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post #1659 of 2140 Old 05-28-2018, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by John Schneider View Post
I am having trouble getting a software update to work.

I recently switched my CC Speaker, so went through the process of redoing the settings with the Calibration Mic (then adjusted things a bit). While I was going through everything afterwards, I noticed that one of the Menu screens stated that there was an update available. I tried going through the process (connected via WiFi) and for about 20 minutes the front panel of the Yamaha said "Verifying" and the progress meter kept moving. Then, a "Not Found" message appeared and nothing else happened. I waited for at least another 10 minutes, but nothing changed. The AVR wouldn't respond to anything until I pressed the Power button on the front of the AVR. It then powered up, but it appears it did not upgrade (the "New Firmware Available message still appears in the same place - under Information : System option).

I tried it again a second time with the same results. This time I waited for close to 30 minutes after the "Not Found" appeared.

Any suggestions?

I will try to hook it up via Ethernet later and try again, but not sure if that's the issue.
John, what you are describing was the exact thing that happened to me when I tried to upgrade over the internet. Wouldnt do it. So I downloaded the firmare from the Yamaha site, put it on a usb thumb drive, and she upgraded that way no problem. And it didnt take long at all to upgrade just a minute or so.
Here's the latest fimware v2.56

https://usa.yamaha.com/support/updat...0_rx-a860.html
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post #1660 of 2140 Old 05-28-2018, 11:22 AM
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John, what you are describing was the exact thing that happened to me when I tried to upgrade over the internet. Wouldnt do it. So I downloaded the firmare from the Yamaha site, put it on a usb thumb drive, and she upgraded that way no problem. And it didnt take long at all to upgrade just a minute or so.
Here's the latest fimware v2.56

https://usa.yamaha.com/support/updat...0_rx-a860.html
Thank you kind Sir! That did the trick (once I figured out that all the buttons to be pushed were on the front of the AVR rather than the remote :doh: )

I gotta go through and make sure all of my settings are still in place, then attempt the thing that startied this whole mess: can't get my DirecTV remote to run the basic functions of the Yamaha - specificaly On/Off.

Thanks again davee1!
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post #1661 of 2140 Old 05-28-2018, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by davee1 View Post
John, what you are describing was the exact thing that happened to me when I tried to upgrade over the internet. Wouldnt do it. So I downloaded the firmare from the Yamaha site, put it on a usb thumb drive, and she upgraded that way no problem. And it didnt take long at all to upgrade just a minute or so.
Here's the latest fimware v2.56

https://usa.yamaha.com/support/updat...0_rx-a860.html

What a timely post! We just installed our TSR-7810 yesterday and I tried to do a firmware update. I was having the exact same problem as the previous poster that you helped. Mine is connected to the network via an Ethernet cable, not wireless, so it doesn't seem to matter which method is used as far as the problem occurring.


I will give the USB thumb drive solution a try when I get home this evening and try to update it. However, I wonder why this is happening at all?
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post #1662 of 2140 Old 05-29-2018, 03:18 PM
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Our set up sounds exactly the same. Not sure why I'm having trouble. When I do the Apple TV test for DV, it always reverts back to previous format which is the 4k SDR
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Originally Posted by Niko Pando View Post
It does pass HDR/Dolby Vision. My setup:

(1) Apple TV 4K > Yamaha TSR-7810 > Sony 940E
[this will pass HDR10 and Dolby vision content—verified by the Dolby Vision logo which briefly appears in the top right hand corner; it looks great too!]

(2) Fire TV 4K (3rd gen) > Yamaha TSR-7810 > Sony 940E
[this will pass HDR10—verified by HDR showing on the picture menu; looks obviously HDR but not as good as DV]

Cables are Monoprice Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable (6ft) 18Gbps

Netflix DV content (via Apple TV) looks *awesome*. HDR10 content looks nice but is clearly brightness constrained. Now that I've seen DV on my 940E, I'm happy I bought it. Also very happy with the Yamaha TSR-7810, so much so I bought a second one just so both my receivers work the same way.

I still can't get Dolby Vision to work with Apple TV 4k through 7810 to Sony TV. I've tested all cables which are Certified 18Gbps from Monoprice. All cable works with DV when connected directly to Sony but as soon as connect through TSR-7810, reverts back to 4k SDR. I've triple checked all settings with Mode 1, pass through, etc. XBox shows UHD which is better than the SDR the Apple TV is showing.

I even tried a different Apple TV 4k box and still the same.
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post #1663 of 2140 Old 05-30-2018, 09:58 AM
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I still can't get Dolby Vision to work with Apple TV 4k through 7810 to Sony TV. I've tested all cables which are Certified 18Gbps from Monoprice. All cable works with DV when connected directly to Sony but as soon as connect through TSR-7810, reverts back to 4k SDR. I've triple checked all settings with Mode 1, pass through, etc. XBox shows UHD which is better than the SDR the Apple TV is showing.

I even tried a different Apple TV 4k box and still the same.
Are you using the same HDMI input port on the Sony TV (worth asking)?
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post #1664 of 2140 Old 05-30-2018, 10:07 AM
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I updated last week. The AVR is connected via ethernet. Used the web interface/setup. Was getting many
not founds, but the update did go through.
Have never seen this with past updates.
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post #1665 of 2140 Old 05-30-2018, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niko Pando View Post
Are you using the same HDMI input port on the Sony TV (worth asking)?
I've tried both HDMI outs on the Yamaha as well as multiple HDMI in on the Sony... just in case the ARC HDMI was possible causing a hiccup... and various settings each time I made the change.
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post #1666 of 2140 Old 06-01-2018, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Schneider View Post
I am having trouble getting a software update to work.

I recently switched my CC Speaker, so went through the process of redoing the settings with the Calibration Mic (then adjusted things a bit). While I was going through everything afterwards, I noticed that one of the Menu screens stated that there was an update available. I tried going through the process (connected via WiFi) and for about 20 minutes the front panel of the Yamaha said "Verifying" and the progress meter kept moving. Then, a "Not Found" message appeared and nothing else happened. I waited for at least another 10 minutes, but nothing changed. The AVR wouldn't respond to anything until I pressed the Power button on the front of the AVR. It then powered up, but it appears it did not upgrade (the "New Firmware Available message still appears in the same place - under Information : System option).

I tried it again a second time with the same results. This time I waited for close to 30 minutes after the "Not Found" appeared.

Any suggestions?

I will try to hook it up via Ethernet later and try again, but not sure if that's the issue.
Update via USB. I never use wifi to do so and and this is why.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

TCL 65r615
Yamaha TSR 7810
Pioneer Sub SW8MKII...
RBH Impression Series 7.0
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post #1667 of 2140 Old 06-01-2018, 11:22 PM
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I had zero issues updating firmware by LAN cable. Took less time than many reported.
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post #1668 of 2140 Old 06-02-2018, 07:07 AM
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I've run into a odd issue, at least I think so, with my RX-V781. When I set the DSP to "Movie - Standard" and play something like 'Last Week Tonight' everything sounds like it's trapped in a glass jar and is extremely echo'y.

Is that just how that DSP is built, or is something wrong with my unit? If I switch to "Straight" it sounds normal, but the audio feels lacklustre and without any "omph" to it when in "Straight"

(for reference, my system is a 3.0, with two fronts and a center)
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post #1669 of 2140 Old 06-02-2018, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinterbird View Post
I've run into a odd issue, at least I think so, with my RX-V781. When I set the DSP to "Movie - Standard" and play something like 'Last Week Tonight' everything sounds like it's trapped in a glass jar and is extremely echo'y.

Is that just how that DSP is built, or is something wrong with my unit? If I switch to "Straight" it sounds normal, but the audio feels lacklustre and without any "omph" to it when in "Straight"

(for reference, my system is a 3.0, with two fronts and a center)
On my setup, which has an old junk Sony sub, I agree with you 100%. So far, I just put it in "7 Channel" mode and that's what sounds best to me.
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post #1670 of 2140 Old 06-03-2018, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Vinterbird View Post
I've run into a odd issue, at least I think so, with my RX-V781. When I set the DSP to "Movie - Standard" and play something like 'Last Week Tonight' everything sounds like it's trapped in a glass jar and is extremely echo'y.



Is that just how that DSP is built, or is something wrong with my unit? If I switch to "Straight" it sounds normal, but the audio feels lacklustre and without any "omph" to it when in "Straight"



(for reference, my system is a 3.0, with two fronts and a center)
Not sure that Movie standard adds “oomph,” just accentuates the audio qualities of the content. For a show with mostly center channel activity, I wouldn’t expect much. Try that DSP with an actual movie.

For shows like that, I leave my older AVR in Dolby PL II Music (slightly wider center channel performance), but for DD or DTS content it reverts to Straight. I don’t personally like the Cinema DSP modes, but YMMV.

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post #1671 of 2140 Old 06-03-2018, 03:01 AM
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Not sure that Movie standard adds “oomph,” just accentuates the audio qualities of the content. For a show with mostly center channel activity, I wouldn’t expect much. Try that DSP with an actual movie.

For shows like that, I leave my older AVR in Dolby PL II Music (slightly wider center channel performance), but for DD or DTS content it reverts to Straight. I don’t personally like the Cinema DSP modes, but YMMV.
Thanks for the feedback. So it is a situation where I need to constantly change the DSP mode depending on what I'm watching?

From what I can read in the manual, and understand (which is the hard part), I get that "Straight Mode" is closets to a 'this is how it was designed to sound' experience, or is it just a way to circumvent whatever added effects is happening on all the other DSP modes? The manual says that "Straight" will send whatever available channels in the content out, so if I am watching a 7.1 show on a 3.0 system I assume I am loosing out on a ton of audio-information?
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post #1672 of 2140 Old 06-03-2018, 07:50 AM
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Hi all,

I can't get HDR to work on anything. Netflix does 4k over Chromecast Ultra but HDR doesn't show up on titles that should have it. I can't get it going. With the PS4 and 1080p HDR is pink, I can't seem to fix it. Everything is running through a Yamaha TS-R7810, I went into the settings and turned off video processing (Direct). All cables are new 18gbps units from Monoprice. JVC x590r.

Can anyone help? Thank you.
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post #1673 of 2140 Old 06-03-2018, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Vinterbird View Post
Thanks for the feedback. So it is a situation where I need to constantly change the DSP mode depending on what I'm watching?



From what I can read in the manual, and understand (which is the hard part), I get that "Straight Mode" is closets to a 'this is how it was designed to sound' experience, or is it just a way to circumvent whatever added effects is happening on all the other DSP modes? The manual says that "Straight" will send whatever available channels in the content out, so if I am watching a 7.1 show on a 3.0 system I assume I am loosing out on a ton of audio-information?
I’m not sure but Straight could indeed be just dropping the surround channels if you’re only running 3.0. How does it sound if you watch “Last Week Tonight” in SUR DECODE, Dolby or DTS?

What format is your HBO coming into the AVR? PCM 2.0, DD 5.1?

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post #1674 of 2140 Old 06-03-2018, 10:29 AM
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I’m not sure but Straight could indeed be just dropping the surround channels if you’re only running 3.0. How does it sound if you watch “Last Week Tonight” in SUR DECODE, Dolby or DTS?

What format is your HBO coming into the AVR? PCM 2.0, DD 5.1?
Running "Last Week Tonight" in either SUR Decode, both Dolby Surround and Neural: X, doesn't give the same echo effect as with "Movie - Standard".

Comparing SUR Decode to Straight didn't seem to have any noticeable change. Will try something more traditional like a movie later and try to spot a difference.

HBO delivers it in Dolby Surround:
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post #1675 of 2140 Old 06-03-2018, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinterbird View Post
Running "Last Week Tonight" in either SUR Decode, both Dolby Surround and Neural: X, doesn't give the same echo effect as with "Movie - Standard".

Comparing SUR Decode to Straight didn't seem to have any noticeable change. Will try something more traditional like a movie later and try to spot a difference.
Read your manual. The Cinema DSP modes add simulated environment echo, delay, other treatments that supposed to be pleasing for movies or music listening. I wouldn't consider a talk show like "Last Week Tonight," "The Daily Show," "The Tonight Show" to be programming that will benefit much from "movie" DSP treatments.

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HBO delivers it in Dolby Surround:
That's not old style "Dolby Surround" (matrixed multi-channel over 2.0 media) in your picture, that's Dolby Digital+ EX (6.1 matrixed). It's already multichannel, so in a 3.0 system "Straight" will IIRC give you left, right, and center channels.

I think if you delve into the manual further, it will confirm that a minimum of 5 channels are recommended to use Cinema DSP modes. Doing it with only left, right, and center speakers isn't going to work very well, resulting in the issue you're experiencing.
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post #1676 of 2140 Old 06-04-2018, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
Read your manual. The Cinema DSP modes add simulated environment echo, delay, other treatments that supposed to be pleasing for movies or music listening. I wouldn't consider a talk show like "Last Week Tonight," "The Daily Show," "The Tonight Show" to be programming that will benefit much from "movie" DSP treatments.


That's not old style "Dolby Surround" (matrixed multi-channel over 2.0 media) in your picture, that's Dolby Digital+ EX (6.1 matrixed). It's already multichannel, so in a 3.0 system "Straight" will IIRC give you left, right, and center channels.

I think if you delve into the manual further, it will confirm that a minimum of 5 channels are recommended to use Cinema DSP modes. Doing it with only left, right, and center speakers isn't going to work very well, resulting in the issue you're experiencing.
Thanks for the insight. I've been studying the manual a lot, and maybe it's because I simply do not know a ton about audio stuff, but I can't get a clear understanding of what is the correct option for a 3.0 situation. Seemingly because there is a base assumption that everyone will use 5.1 or greater.

Ideally I was hoping for a "Movie" DSP could just be a selected option that would work between talkshows, movies, games and all the way down to Peppa Pig, due to the fact that having to do the guessing game of "what would be the best option here" sounds incredibly stressing.

I guess "Straight" might be the best option, even though I can't get a clear answer from the manual on whether it will roll in the missing channels into the L/R/C setup I have.

Anyway, thanks a ton for helping and providing feedback.
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post #1677 of 2140 Old 06-04-2018, 11:58 AM
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I have a couple of questions about the TSR-7810 before getting one.

1. IF I connect my DVD, ROKU, Directv, etc. TO the TSR-7810 via HDMI, and then a SINGLE HDMI from the 7810 to my OLED HDMI/ARC, with this receiver pass HDR/HDR10/and DOLBY Vision to the TV?

2. Other than simplicity in switching, is there any advantage to connecting my devices to the HDMI in the TSR-7810 or would it be just as good to connect all my devices directly to the TV and then just one HDMI from the tv (HDMI/ARC) to the 7810?

My TV is an OLED65B7P and it already has a great 4k/UHD upscaler. It also handles HDR10, HDR+, and Dolby Vision natively. What advantage, other than switching from the AVR instead of the TV is there. I have more than enough HDMI in the tv.

Thanks. Mike

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post #1678 of 2140 Old 06-04-2018, 01:45 PM
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The "OFFICIAL" Yamaha TSR-7810/RX-v781 Owner's thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinterbird View Post
Thanks for the insight. I've been studying the manual a lot, and maybe it's because I simply do not know a ton about audio stuff, but I can't get a clear understanding of what is the correct option for a 3.0 situation. Seemingly because there is a base assumption that everyone will use 5.1 or greater.
Ideally I was hoping for a "Movie" DSP could just be a selected option that would work between talkshows, movies, games and all the way down to Peppa Pig, due to the fact that having to do the guessing game of "what would be the best option here" sounds incredibly stressing.
I guess "Straight" might be the best option, even though I can't get a clear answer from the manual on whether it will roll in the missing channels into the L/R/C setup I have.
Anyway, thanks a ton for helping and providing feedback.
For 3.0 setup, I think I’d leave it in SUR DECODE and use Dolby Surround/PL II Movie or Music. You have insufficient speakers for Cinema DSP. Just my two cents.

P.S. Straight will not redirect surround channels to your fronts for 5.1 content, for that I think you’d have to just miss out on that. 2.0 content, the sounds will be there, just not redirected to the rear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Christcorp View Post
I have a couple of questions about the TSR-7810 before getting one.

1. IF I connect my DVD, ROKU, Directv, etc. TO the TSR-7810 via HDMI, and then a SINGLE HDMI from the 7810 to my OLED HDMI/ARC, with this receiver pass HDR/HDR10/and DOLBY Vision to the TV?

2. Other than simplicity in switching, is there any advantage to connecting my devices to the HDMI in the TSR-7810 or would it be just as good to connect all my devices directly to the TV and then just one HDMI from the tv (HDMI/ARC) to the 7810?

My TV is an OLED65B7P and it already has a great 4k/UHD upscaler. It also handles HDR10, HDR+, and Dolby Vision natively. What advantage, other than switching from the AVR instead of the TV is there. I have more than enough HDMI in the tv.

Thanks. Mike
If you have the latest firmware update, you should have support for DV.

The appeal in switching through the AVR is that HDMI-ARC will not pass the high def audio formats that a BD player and streaming devices may offer. (You said DVD, so I’m presuming that you mean you have a BD or UHD BD player. You wouldn’t care about HDR or DV with a DVD player.) Also HDMI-CEC will turn on all the components for you when you put in a disc or press a button on your Roku.

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Last edited by ChromeJob; 06-04-2018 at 02:31 PM.
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post #1679 of 2140 Old 06-04-2018, 03:18 PM
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Thx for the feedback chrom. Definitely something to think about.

Mike

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post #1680 of 2140 Old 06-07-2018, 09:54 AM
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Anyone have suggestions on what $200 sub to put on with my new 7810 setup I did a few months ago to replace my 14 year old Yamaha HTR-5930? I have been reusing the 5930 subwoofer the last few months as a user indicated it had pretty decent low frequency response vs replacing it. However, I want to give my old 5930 setup to a friend of mine who doesn't have much money and I want to give him the sub so he has a complete system for his man cave.



So needless to say, I need to replace the sub with something decent but I really don't want to spend more then $200 considering my current living conditions which is a very small apartment so I cannot crank my new setup very loud. I also 90% am playing PS4 games, 8% HTPC to watch MKV tv shows I torrented and rarely do I watch Blu Ray's, so I am not in need of an expensive, high and low frequency subwoofer as it pointless for my setup and living situation.











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