"OFFICIAL" 2017 Denon "S-Series" / "X-Series" AVR Owner's Thread + FAQ (Posts 1-8) - Page 285 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #8521 of 13373 Old 10-16-2018, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post
Ouch!

(I'm saying that on behalf of the HDMI cable )

Unfortunately, a tight bend like what I'm visualizing can actually damage the wires inside the cable.
There are right-angle HDMI adapters which can be used in cramped areas.

I'm glad to know that you managed to resolve the problem.
It's actually not bad, but a right angle wouldn't hurt. Its a big sweep now so should be fine. The cable that is.
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post #8522 of 13373 Old 10-16-2018, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ Lushious View Post
Okay, here's an odd one I've never experienced. I just bought an SVS PB-2000 subwoofer and when I hook it up to the 12v trigger on my X4400h the Front Left speaker buzzes. I've tried 3 different mono 3.5mm cables and both 12v trigger outputs and still get the same behavior. Has anyone experienced this before? I'm going with the sub's auto-sense now, but the 12v trigger was a selling point for me on this sub.

I've owned two SVS subs (currently a PB13 Ultra). You shouldn't need a trigger set up if you set the sub to Auto/Standby. This control is on the back of the sub. I've always used this and basically the sub turns on when a signal is present and turns off after a few minutes when no signal is present. Should solve your problem.
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post #8523 of 13373 Old 10-16-2018, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan in St. Louis View Post
Buzz and hum can both be ground-loop symptoms. (Buzz is just "hum with sharp edges.") Try reversing the subwoofer power plug, then the AVR power plug, then both until you see if which combination minimizes the fault. Use "cheater" adapters if necessary if the plugs are polarized.

I'm pretty sure the AVR power cord is 2-conductor. If the woofer power cord is not, try a cheater plug to interrupt the ground.

Come back and tell us what finally works.
I would definitely categorize it as a "buzz."


Now, when you say "2-conductor" power cord, would the cord be devoid of the three female slots in the following example, the third ground prong, or both? I will have to check the power cords I am using. I will 100% admit that I had my BIC PL-200 II where the SVS is now and didn't bother to replace the BIC power cord with the SVS', I merely switched subwoofer places.



I'll do some more troubleshooting after work and provide an update. Thanks!
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post #8524 of 13373 Old 10-16-2018, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ Lushious View Post
Now, when you say "2-conductor" power cord, would the cord be devoid of the three female slots in the following example, the third ground prong, or both?
Generally the "pin count" will be the same at both ends. If EITHER end has 2, it is a 2-conductor cord.

Below--2-conductor on the left, 3 on the right; at the "source" end
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post #8525 of 13373 Old 10-16-2018, 10:38 AM
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Generally speaking, for a 7.2.4 setup and Denon AVR, how long does it take to run Audyssey?
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post #8526 of 13373 Old 10-16-2018, 10:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ctsv510 View Post
Generally speaking, for a 7.2.4 setup and Denon AVR, how long does it take to run Audyssey?
About 15 minutes.
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post #8527 of 13373 Old 10-16-2018, 10:42 AM
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About 15 minutes.
Thanks!
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post #8528 of 13373 Old 10-16-2018, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ Lushious View Post
Now, when you say "2-conductor" power cord, would the cord be devoid of the three female slots in the following example, the third ground prong, or both?

FYI, that 3rd barrel shaped pin does not have an electrical function under normal use. It is 'merely' a ground that will shunt the circuit should a failure occur (which could otherwise create a deadly dangerous situation... so use grounded plugs).
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post #8529 of 13373 Old 10-16-2018, 12:36 PM
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Does anyone happen to have a similar setup to mine I need some settings help

2017 LG E7 OLED 65inch
2017 Denon Avr 2400h
LG UBK90 bluray player
2017 Nvidia Shield Console

Im having serious problems with ARC and how to run the HDMIs into receiver then to the TV

THANKS....
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post #8530 of 13373 Old 10-16-2018, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by labboypro View Post
will shunt the circuit should a failure occur (which could otherwise create a deadly dangerous situation... so use grounded plugs).
Have you looked at your Denon power cord lately<G>?

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post #8531 of 13373 Old 10-16-2018, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ Lushious View Post
I would definitely categorize it as a "buzz."
A second possibility: I assume the subwoofer ic connected by a shielded cable with "RCA" plus on both ends. Wiggle the cables near each end, and rotate the male plugs on the female jack in a wiping motion. Listen for changes in the buzz volume and character.

I have seen oxidation build up on these connectors and interrupt the ground path. If the "twist-n-clean" works you are done! If wiggling the cable ends helps, throw that cable away and get one that is still intact.
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M = Mega, m = milli. K = Kelvin, k = kilo. B = Bytes, b = bits. G = Giga, g = gravity. Dan in Saint Louis
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post #8532 of 13373 Old 10-16-2018, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ Lushious View Post
I will 100% admit that I had my BIC PL-200 II where the SVS is now and didn't bother to replace the BIC power cord with the SVS', I merely switched
Should be ok but I'd definitely add it to your list of troubleshooting changes.

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post #8533 of 13373 Old 10-16-2018, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tybo971 View Post
Does anyone happen to have a similar setup to mine I need some settings help



2017 LG E7 OLED 65inch

2017 Denon Avr 2400h

LG UBK90 bluray player

2017 Nvidia Shield Console



Im having serious problems with ARC and how to run the HDMIs into receiver then to the TV



THANKS....


Well first, do not run ARC.

Run your Shield and LG Bluray player into corresponding HDMI ports, run 1 HDMI from the receiver output to any HDMI 2.0 port on the TV.

Run Netflix, Amazon, Vudoo from Shield and get best audio results from there. If you need audio from the tv, use optical cable from the tv to the receiver and set the receiver in the setup for optical audio.

Viola


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tv: Samsung UN75MU800, Receiver: Denon AVR 730H, speakers: 4x M&K S-1B and M&K S85c for center, sub: MKsound V12 HTPC, Samsung UBP-K8500, Rogers Digital PVR, Chromecast Ultra
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post #8534 of 13373 Old 10-16-2018, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Quicksilv3r View Post
Well first, do not run ARC.

Run your Shield and LG Bluray player into corresponding HDMI ports, run 1 HDMI from the receiver output to any HDMI 2.0 port on the TV.

Run Netflix, Amazon, Vudoo from Shield and get best audio results from there. If you need audio from the tv, use optical cable from the tv to the receiver and set the receiver in the setup for optical audio.

Viola


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Ok I'll try that thank you.....

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post #8535 of 13373 Old 10-17-2018, 03:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Are you using a Quick Select? Are you using a Harmony (or other Universal) remote?



As noted in post 4 (Issues):



All Zones Power ON - When using a universal remote (eg. Harmony) to power on the multi zone models, all zones will be powered on (ie. main, Zone2, Zone3). A few work arounds include: (a) "teaching" the universal remote the discrete power on sequence for each zone from the Denon remote, (b) select an individual source button which will also power on the AVR as well, or (c) simply set the Zones 2/3 "Power On Volume" to either "Mute" or some low volume level (eg. 40 or -40db). Note this can also occur when using the Denon remote, so if you power OFF the AVR and the front panel says "Main Zone OFF" but the unit still remains powered ON, that means you have Zone 2 (and/or 3) powered on as well and must turn them OFF to power off the AVR. With the X4400H and X6400H remotes you can also set the remote to only affect changes in the main zone (p. 263 (X4400H) / p. 262 (X6400H) Owner's manual).


This doesn't seem to work.

Even if I set it as per the guide, the GAME input button enables zones 2 and 3.... Which I then cannot turn off with the remote as it's locked to main zone.

Very annoying.


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post #8536 of 13373 Old 10-17-2018, 06:03 AM
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Amplifier "loses" channels

Hey there, I thought I'd ask here before buying a new receiver, maybe I can salvage my current one.


A year or so ago I bought a Denon AVR-S930H since I had just got a 4K TV (LG OLED C6.) I'm using my previous speakers which are Energy Take 5.1 Classic (link to cutsheet PDF). I think they should be fine together given the wattage and ohm.


I noticed after a little while I was losing voices altogether. Surround from one side or both side also happened. It can be any channel really. It just stopped or the sound coming out from the affected speaker was really faint.


If I "jiggle" the cables (banana plugged) behind my receiver, I can usually get back all channels for a little while. Sometimes it'll be fine for weeks and then all of sudden it'll start acting up again, plaguing my experience for months.


I noticed the banana plugs aren't solidly held into place. I have room to jiggle them around. Not sure if that's normal.



Here's what I tried:
- Reset the AVR
- Reset the TV
- Calibrate speakers via the receiver (many, many times)
- Bought and installed banana plugs
- Changed wires completely (new roll)

- Disable/Enable HDMI ARC
- Tried 3 different HDMI cables (some older, some modern)

- Re-screwed the wires on the speakers and the AVR (many times)
- Cleaning all the dust I could possibly from plug holes



There's a sale going on and I'm thinking I might buy a new receiver hoping this will fix all my woes. I previously owned a Denon (refurbished too) that didn't support 4K and that one worked perfectly fine, I've now passed it on to a friend and it's still great. However, I think I might try a Onkyo or something like that for a change.


Anything I should try as a last resort? Warranty is definitely expired on this refurbished unit. I'm not very savvy in terms of electronics, I'm not sure looking into it would amount to anything unless there were obvious signs.
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post #8537 of 13373 Old 10-17-2018, 06:31 AM
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Banana plugs should be tight, with no wiggle. If they are wiggling they are not making the proper contact with the speaker wire terminals. Have you tried removing the banana plugs and just using the bare wire in the speaker wire terminals? You mentioned changing the wire and re-tightening the wire, but you didn't specify if you tried it without the bananas. Try bare wire before buying a new receiver. You can also try locking banana plugs or "z-plugs" if you insist on using banana plugs.

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post #8538 of 13373 Old 10-17-2018, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Jawaburger View Post
Banana plugs should be tight, with no wiggle. If they are wiggling they are not making the proper contact with the speaker wire terminals. Have you tried removing the banana plugs and just using the bare wire in the speaker wire terminals? You mentioned changing the wire and re-tightening the wire, but you didn't specify if you tried it without the bananas. Try bare wire before buying a new receiver. You can also try locking banana plugs or "z-plugs" if you insist on using banana plugs.

Thanks for your answer!



I tried bare wires for most of the life of this receiver. The problems were the same unfortunately. Banana plugs were a way to try and fix the issue.


I'll take a look at z-plugs or try to find a way to solidify the contact on my banana plugs. However, since it happened before with bare wires, not sure if that's the issue. It might be a new issue I created though!
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post #8539 of 13373 Old 10-17-2018, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeromegn View Post

maybe I can salvage my Denon AVR-S930H

I noticed after a little while I was losing voices altogether. Surround from one side or both side also happened. It can be any channel really. It just stopped or the sound coming out from the affected speaker was really faint.

If I "jiggle" the cables (banana plugged) behind my receiver, I can usually get back all channels for a little while. Sometimes it'll be fine for weeks and then all of sudden it'll start acting up again, plaguing my experience for months.

Anything I should try as a last resort? Warranty is definitely expired on this refurbished unit.

jeromegn,

Mistar Muffin has a dramatic last resort.

My S930H behaved like yours -- and eventually had an intermittent fault every night. Two returns (for repair) under warrantee did not fix the problem.

Mistar Muffin described a design detail in "*Official* Marantz 2016 NR-1607 ... owner's thread" post #4383 . It's also present in my Denon.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mistar Muffin View Post
From what I can tell this issue is probably just an oversight or design flaw rather than some kind of overall indicator of build quality. The solder joints are all very strong and tidy and the PCB are well laid out and of good quality. Everything seems well engineered and of a good material. Taking one of these things apart really reminds you just how much of an "all in one" device AVRs are expected to be. There is everything but the kitchen sink inside this box and it is really impressive that the quality is what it is considering the price. I got my SR6011 for under $800.

The issue with the binding posts, in more detail, is this:

The binding posts themselves are gold plated and have a little gold "tongue" that sticks inside the case. The motherboard/PCB has a piece of silver metal that is soldered to it. That metal rises up and bends 90 degrees right where the binding post's little gold tongue enters the case. The problem is that the gold tongue and silver piece only make contact by pressure. They are both slid inside a little plastic housing. With enough flexing of the binding posts the little gold tongue no longer makes good contact with the silver leg that connects to the motherboard. I used a Dremel to remove the plastic housing so I could see where the gold tongue and silver leg were making contact and laid some solder across the two. I would hope that if this issue is widespread that it will be changed in future models.

From my Denon:





From somebody else's Marantz:





Carl

Last edited by cTwining; 10-17-2018 at 11:46 AM.
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post #8540 of 13373 Old 10-17-2018, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post
D&M requires a mono trigger cable connection, but mono jack (female) to stereo plug (male) adapters are readily available.

One with an external insulated cover probably is best. The trigger outputs of D&M equipment are notorious for being easily damaged by accidental grounding. Supposedly recent models have had improved protection designed into them, though.

An example is shown at https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_...seq=1&format=2
As an update, for those who may want to do this. I actually found a mono to stereo mini plug cable. Interestingly enough, although it worked, there was a long delay in the amp being triggered to shut off when the x6400 was turned off.

Reading online, people had success using a stereo cable with Denon (not frying anything). Gave that a whirl and it works flawlessly and instantaneously. YMMV, and it's not recommended by Denon so do it with caution, but works awesome for me.
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post #8541 of 13373 Old 10-17-2018, 12:57 PM
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@cTwining For anyone interested in attempting this DIY project. The OP said it took them over 6 hours and neccesitated the removal of the HDMI board as well as the cutting of the plastic to get at the connection points. Definitely not for the faint of heart.
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post #8542 of 13373 Old 10-17-2018, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan in St. Louis View Post
A second possibility: I assume the subwoofer ic connected by a shielded cable with "RCA" plus on both ends. Wiggle the cables near each end, and rotate the male plugs on the female jack in a wiping motion. Listen for changes in the buzz volume and character.

I have seen oxidation build up on these connectors and interrupt the ground path. If the "twist-n-clean" works you are done! If wiggling the cable ends helps, throw that cable away and get one that is still intact.
Yeah, it's an RCA cable. More specifically, it's a Mediabridge ULTRA cable. It was purchased in March. I did the twist, just to be sure, and still the same buzz.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Madmax67 View Post
Should be ok but I'd definitely add it to your list of troubleshooting changes.
Here's where it gets good: the buzzing happens even when the subwoofer is unplugged from the electrical outlet. This is with the subwoofer cable and 12v trigger cable plugged in, though.

Why would the sole addition of a connected 12v trigger cause this on the AVR side? I am definitely not knowledgeable enough in this area to even take a guess.
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post #8543 of 13373 Old 10-17-2018, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ Lushious View Post
Yeah, it's an RCA cable. More specifically, it's a Mediabridge ULTRA cable. It was purchased in March. I did the twist, just to be sure, and still the same buzz.


Here's where it gets good: the buzzing happens even when the subwoofer is unplugged from the electrical outlet. This is with the subwoofer cable and 12v trigger cable plugged in, though.

Why would the sole addition of a connected 12v trigger cause this on the AVR side? I am definitely not knowledgeable enough in this area to even take a guess.
Yeah, Dan's the EE here not me ( I just read waaaay too much) so I'll defer to his thoughts on this but with the power cable removed from the sub it seems like it might be something more upstream from it that's the issue. Try disconnecting any cable or satellite coax coming into your setup. The other troubleshoot I was going to suggest was just partially inserting the 12 Volt RCA jack into the sub so that only the 12 Volt control signal was making contact and see if the noise went away but with your newest update that might not be the issue with the sub's power cable removed. Another EE here on AVS suggested this if the 12 Volt cable was the culprit:

"If you can handle a soldering iron you could stick a 10 ohm resistor in series with the ground and that will probably fix the problem."

There's multiple threads about these SVS 12 Volt triggers causing noise issues but many have found fixes other than the simplest which is not to use it but I understand you do have it so you want to use it.

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post #8544 of 13373 Old 10-18-2018, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madmax67 View Post
Yeah, Dan's the EE here not me ( I just read waaaay too much) so I'll defer to his thoughts on this but with the power cable removed from the sub it seems like it might be something more upstream from it that's the issue. Try disconnecting any cable or satellite coax coming into your setup. The other troubleshoot I was going to suggest was just partially inserting the 12 Volt RCA jack into the sub so that only the 12 Volt control signal was making contact and see if the noise went away but with your newest update that might not be the issue with the sub's power cable removed. Another EE here on AVS suggested this if the 12 Volt cable was the culprit:

"If you can handle a soldering iron you could stick a 10 ohm resistor in series with the ground and that will probably fix the problem."

There's multiple threads about these SVS 12 Volt triggers causing noise issues but many have found fixes other than the simplest which is not to use it but I understand you do have it so you want to use it.
I tried reading an electrical diagram a little while ago and it made my brain hurt. So, I'm glad to have you and Dan around. Haha!


RE: Italicized
I don't have any coax signals directly coming into the setup. The coax I do have is an HD Homerun, but that just sits on the network and is far removed from the AV setup.


RE: Underlined
Soldering is a great skill to know, but definitely not for me. And that solution seems to allude to the same electrical knowledge that makes my brain hurt.


RE: Bolded
Yeah, I am happily using the subwoofer set to "Auto-On." At this point, though, I'm invested in understanding why this is happening. I have a Dayton Audio 2-channel amp that is hooked up to the Denon's other 12v trigger and I have no issues. Though, and I don't know if this helps even further, if I go through the Dayton's 12v trigger out I get the same buzzing.
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post #8545 of 13373 Old 10-18-2018, 10:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Google Home

In addition to working with Alexa (eg. Echo/Echo Dot), Denon and Marantz HEOS models are now able to work with Google Home.

https://marantz.custhelp.com/app/ans...Fconfiguration
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post #8546 of 13373 Old 10-18-2018, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ Lushious View Post
I tried reading an electrical diagram a little while ago and it made my brain hurt. So, I'm glad to have you and Dan around. Haha!


RE: Italicized
I don't have any coax signals directly coming into the setup. The coax I do have is an HD Homerun, but that just sits on the network and is far removed from the AV setup.


RE: Underlined
Soldering is a great skill to know, but definitely not for me. And that solution seems to allude to the same electrical knowledge that makes my brain hurt.


RE: Bolded
Yeah, I am happily using the subwoofer set to "Auto-On." At this point, though, I'm invested in understanding why this is happening. I have a Dayton Audio 2-channel amp that is hooked up to the Denon's other 12v trigger and I have no issues. Though, and I don't know if this helps even further, if I go through the Dayton's 12v trigger out I get the same buzzing.
Its related to electronics not having a common path to ground. Thats why breaking that path for one of the devices by removing power or using a cheater plug as a troubleshoot gets rid of the noise but isnt a permanent fix for safety or practicality reasons. Cable coax's are notorious for causing this just because of the varying skill levels of cable and sat installers. STAR grounding where all electronics are wired together in a specific pattern is one fix. Isolation transformers inserted into the offending signal path are another. Also using the same surge protector fo all of your electronics can be yet another fix. Different paths to ground can mean different ground potentials. Thats where the dreaded 60HZ ground loop comes in and only either by combining or cutting that path can the noise be eliminated.

More tecnical explanation:

https://www.ecmweb.com/content/findi...ops-av-systems

Easier explanation (IMO):

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/artic...woofer-hum.htm

Chane A5 towers,Chane A2.4 center,RBH bipole side surrounds, Rythmik LV12R x2,Denon X4300H, Outlaw 5000,Front B speakers: Wharfedale Diamond 10.1 books. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...d-part-ii.html
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post #8547 of 13373 Old 10-18-2018, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
In addition to working with Alexa (eg. Echo/Echo Dot), Denon and Marantz HEOS models are now able to work with Google Home.

https://marantz.custhelp.com/app/ans...Fconfiguration

Nice. Thanks for posting.
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post #8548 of 13373 Old 10-18-2018, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ Lushious View Post
I would definitely categorize it as a "buzz."


Now, when you say "2-conductor" power cord, would the cord be devoid of the three female slots in the following example, the third ground prong, or both? I will have to check the power cords I am using. I will 100% admit that I had my BIC PL-200 II where the SVS is now and didn't bother to replace the BIC power cord with the SVS', I merely switched subwoofer places.



I'll do some more troubleshooting after work and provide an update. Thanks!
I was getting this buzz/hum I’d never had before when my sub was connected. I’d recently moved and didn’t pay close attention when grabbing one to power up the BagEnd. I went back to my collections and found a very robust cord that was the original sub cord and replaced the other. Problem gone.
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post #8549 of 13373 Old 10-18-2018, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ Lushious View Post
I tried reading an electrical diagram a little while ago and it made my brain hurt. So, I'm glad to have you and Dan around. Haha!
Dan is definitely the man in this area. I'm just a self described wannabe book worm research junky who's dad was an electrician in the Navy and a telecom guy after that and I regret not quizzing him more for his electronics knowledge when he was around. My dad sold and helped install switching systems on top secret naval facilities over the years including Guantanamo Bay. He also helped design the first working video telephone back in the 70's working for Stromberg Carlson and was a tech writer for several large telecom companies as the years went on. This is all proof that shared DNA doesnt mean shared intelligence, lol ! I aint dumb but I sure ain't my old man. I do try to out research the limitations of my brain power though by reading everything I can get my hands on especially if it's somethin I'm interested in. Used to be cars. Now its home theater and the like.


Quote:
Soldering is a great skill to know, but definitely not for me. And that solution seems to allude to the same electrical knowledge that makes my brain hurt.
I concur but I would only call it a skill when used on circuit boards. If not its basically just like using a hot glue gun but with metal wire instead of glue sticks. You do need a soldering station, wire and some basic tools like a a pair of metal snips and a small fan but I'm with you on the not for me part. I do basic electrical work around the house installing ceiling fans and light fixtures and I open up my laptops to do mods but I've never owned or used a soldering iron in my life either. I twist, tape, clamp or wire nut.



Quote:
Yeah, I am happily using the subwoofer set to "Auto-On." At this point, though, I'm invested in understanding why this is happening. I have a Dayton Audio 2-channel amp that is hooked up to the Denon's other 12v trigger and I have no issues. Though, and I don't know if this helps even further, if I go through the Dayton's 12v trigger out I get the same buzzing.

All this just basically means is something in that signal path has an alternate path to ground. If both amp and receiver have a grounding screw you could connect a copper wire between the two and see if the noise goes away. This may not always work as that's just the chassis ground. There's another ground called signal ground:


https://www.analogictips.com/faq-gro...al-ground-faq/
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Chane A5 towers,Chane A2.4 center,RBH bipole side surrounds, Rythmik LV12R x2,Denon X4300H, Outlaw 5000,Front B speakers: Wharfedale Diamond 10.1 books. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...d-part-ii.html

Last edited by Madmax67; 10-18-2018 at 02:15 PM.
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post #8550 of 13373 Old 10-18-2018, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbarach View Post
2 channel playback

I'm running a 5.2 system with my x4400, and I just had my first look at the settings for 2-channel playback. My speakers were shown as SMALL (I set them that way after running Audyssey), with the crossover at 80 Hz. The front L and R levels matched what I had set in the Speakers screen (I'd changed them a bit from the Audyssey results). However, my speaker distances were set to 12 feet (they measure about 7 feet, and Audyssey was quite accurate in measuring them.)--I have no idea where that 12-feet number came from. I changed the distances to match what Audyssey had measured.

The only subwoofer setting is YES or NO. There is no way to set the subwoofer "distance" (delay) or level separately for 2-channel playback. So I'm wondering if the x4400 uses the subwoofer distance and level settings obtained by Audyssey, uses some default distance setting that matches that odd 12-foot default, or matches the change to subwoofer trim that I made myself in the regular Speaker Levels screen (like many, I increased the subwoofer trim there by several decibels.

The manual is mute about all of this.

Denon x4400h, Samsung LED 1080p TV, B&W 704 mains, two M&K subwoofers, Oppo 103, Roku 2, Darbeevision, etc.
Headphone system: Focal Clear, Sennheiser HD600, AKG K702, Hifiman HE-400i, Marantz HD-DAC1, Denon DVD-3910
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