The Official Onkyo 2017 TX-NR575 and TX-NR676 Thread - Page 32 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #931 of 957 Old 05-05-2019, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rufunky View Post
Thanks again. I just reset to defaults, set everything back up and still the sub isn't kicking in. I even tried turning the bass settings on the AVR to 10.
Would it have anything to do with what's playing? What I mean is I haven't hooked up anything to play movies yet. I just was testing it via Bluetooth and Spotify.

EDIT!

I got it working! Apparently, the cable was shorting the sub and causing it to turn off even though the green light was on. I shut the sub off, disconnected the cable, tried the new cable and bam.

Now, when using the mic to automatically setup speakers it seemed if I had the settings on the sub at certain levels it would kick the sub into protection mode until I toggled the on-off. what settings should I have the low pass frequency set to on the back of the sub??

Last edited by rufunky; 05-05-2019 at 04:54 PM.
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post #932 of 957 Old 05-05-2019, 05:02 PM
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OK...
Glad U got it working...

Just my $0.02...
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post #933 of 957 Old 05-06-2019, 07:56 AM
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I have what might be an issue but it's most likely settings. I switched from an older model Onkyo to the 676 back in December to gain 4K capabilities. I only have a 5.1 setup. I did the initial calibration using the setup mic. I've noticed a distinct difference in overall volume between the new AVR and my old one. The older Onkyo would turn on at 45 and I'd rarely go above 50. With the 676 I'm always going past 55 and usually almost to 60. I've also noticed my sub (SVS PB10) doesn't kick in as much as it used to. For the HBO "AHHHH" intro it would ALWAYS kick on at that point from my previous AVR, but didn't last night watching the same intro for GoT. I also just purchased new SVS surrounds (front Bookshelfs and rear satellites) but overall did not notice hardly a difference from my 10 year old crappy HTiB satellites I was using. Really stumped.



Trying to figure out what's going on and what settings are incorrect.
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post #934 of 957 Old 05-08-2019, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stryker412 View Post
I have what might be an issue but it's most likely settings. I switched from an older model Onkyo to the 676 back in December to gain 4K capabilities. I only have a 5.1 setup. I did the initial calibration using the setup mic. I've noticed a distinct difference in overall volume between the new AVR and my old one. The older Onkyo would turn on at 45 and I'd rarely go above 50. With the 676 I'm always going past 55 and usually almost to 60. I've also noticed my sub (SVS PB10) doesn't kick in as much as it used to. For the HBO "AHHHH" intro it would ALWAYS kick on at that point from my previous AVR, but didn't last night watching the same intro for GoT. I also just purchased new SVS surrounds (front Bookshelfs and rear satellites) but overall did not notice hardly a difference from my 10 year old crappy HTiB satellites I was using. Really stumped.



Trying to figure out what's going on and what settings are incorrect.
There's nothing wrong with your settings. I noticed the same thing when upgrading from my HT-R693. Most times on the old receiver I never had to go above 40 - 45 max for really loud volume. Most times the volume knob was in the 30s. When I upgraded to the TX-NR676, I too was having to push volume level up into the 60s. However, I was coming from the stock 6ohm speakers that came with my Onkyo HTIB. I got Polk S15's, S35, T15's and Bose 161's for the new receiver and they are all 8ohm, so power output was less, but much cleaner.

One thing you can do is check your trim levels and intellivolume settings. When I ran calibration on my setup, my fronts, heights and center are anywhere from -1 to -3, nothing more. My rears are from -4 to -7 but they are right behind my couch. I also have intellivolume on my Apple TV 4K at +4 and my Sony BDP-S6700 is at +2. Now, depending on content, my volume range is anywhere from 40 - 55. I've noticed 2 channel PCM is the loudest. 5.1 channel PCM content still has a bit of a range (anywhere from 48 - 55). Dolby content though really booms at no more than 50 volume.

EDIT:

Regarding your sub, what is the trim level set to? Mine is -3 but I have the volume knob on back of sub set at the half way point. There is also a setting in the menu for LFE gain. You may want to play around with that as well. I have HBO through my Amazon Prime account so using the Prime Video app with volume around 50 I always get a nice bass rumble on that HBO intro "AHHHHH".

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post #935 of 957 Old 05-08-2019, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eriksells916 View Post
I saw this in the xbox and sony tv forum. We often overlook something simple that is causing the handshake issues; wrong cable, settings are wrong in the tv or cable box, blu-ray player, etc. or source is playing something the tv or avr can't handle (4k, uhd, DV).

So Try all of these and see what works?

1. verify 18gbps hdmi cables - no guessing or taking someone elses word for it
2. plug hdmi from cable box directly into tv input 1 (did that fix the issue?)
3. turn off anynet, arc-cec, dolby vision or UHD in the tv
4. your cable box might not be hdcp 2.2 compliant
5. set tv, blu-ray player, etc to detect in "auto" mode
5. power down everything, unplug the power cords for cable box, tv and receiver, then plug them back in one at a time. turn on the receiver, wait 10 seconds, turn on the tv wait 10 seconds and then the cable box. If that doesn't work then try a different order, the cable box, then receiver then tv.

Good luck!
The good luck is not with me .Nothing happened unfortunately ...
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post #936 of 957 Old 05-08-2019, 09:20 AM
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I'm noticing when I have my sub just over 50 percent power and turn the volume on my receiver up past 65 on high base songs my sub clips out and I have to turn off and on again. Both the receiver and the sub are set to around 100 Hertz. Any suggestions?
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post #937 of 957 Old 05-09-2019, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stryker412 View Post
I have what might be an issue but it's most likely settings. I switched from an older model Onkyo to the 676 back in December to gain 4K capabilities. I only have a 5.1 setup. I did the initial calibration using the setup mic. I've noticed a distinct difference in overall volume between the new AVR and my old one. The older Onkyo would turn on at 45 and I'd rarely go above 50. With the 676 I'm always going past 55 and usually almost to 60. I've also noticed my sub (SVS PB10) doesn't kick in as much as it used to. For the HBO "AHHHH" intro it would ALWAYS kick on at that point from my previous AVR, but didn't last night watching the same intro for GoT. I also just purchased new SVS surrounds (front Bookshelfs and rear satellites) but overall did not notice hardly a difference from my 10 year old crappy HTiB satellites I was using. Really stumped.



Trying to figure out what's going on and what settings are incorrect.
Volume knob levels are basically irrelevant - it's just one part of the overall gain structure. If the same speakers are putting out the same volume then they're getting the same wattage regardless of volume knob. Regarding the sub the advice on trim levels and Intellivolume is good.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rufunky View Post
I'm noticing when I have my sub just over 50 percent power and turn the volume on my receiver up past 65 on high base songs my sub clips out and I have to turn off and on again. Both the receiver and the sub are set to around 100 Hertz. Any suggestions?
What does "50% power" mean? Are you referring to the gain knob on your sub's amp?
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post #938 of 957 Old 05-15-2019, 11:11 AM
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New user here, few issues -

1. Is it possible to get the front panel to display the sound mode instead of input name?
2. I upgraded from an older Onkyo (TX-NR609) and it had more options in menus - e.g. I cannot find an option to display volume in dB vs 0-100. Is that gone?
3. I bought an open box unit without remote. My older Onkyo remote works but it cannot open the setup menu. Is there a way to use another universal remote?
4. The display OSD doesn't come up over currently playing content. I only see volume OSD.
5. I hear a lot more clicking from the relays than in my older model. Again not sure if this is normal.
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post #939 of 957 Old 05-15-2019, 02:56 PM
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Just a heads up

figured i'd post this just in case someone has the same issue.
i have the TX-NR676 and i had a problem that i thought was the receiver, so i reset it. i'm on the most recent firmware, and when i set everything back up i noticed that i could no longer get 4k 60 hdr on my ps4 or pc. after about 2 days of pulling my hair out i checked the notes on the firmware update and it seems theres a 4k standard and 4k enhanced mode, and when i reset the receiver, it defaults now to standard mode.

you need to hold the bd/dvd button on the unit and press the power button. the screen will show 4k:standard, keep holding the bd/dvd button and press the power again to switch to 4k:enhanced.
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post #940 of 957 Old 05-15-2019, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Defcon View Post
New user here, few issues -

1. Is it possible to get the front panel to display the sound mode instead of input name?
2. I upgraded from an older Onkyo (TX-NR609) and it had more options in menus - e.g. I cannot find an option to display volume in dB vs 0-100. Is that gone?
3. I bought an open box unit without remote. My older Onkyo remote works but it cannot open the setup menu. Is there a way to use another universal remote?
4. The display OSD doesn't come up over currently playing content. I only see volume OSD.
5. I hear a lot more clicking from the relays than in my older model. Again not sure if this is normal.
No.

Don't believe this is an option on the 676.

Probably but you can always buy another cheap remote.

What do you mean 'display OSD'?

Relay clicks are normal, and without knowing your exact use scenario it's hard to say.
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post #941 of 957 Old 05-15-2019, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by KSpan View Post
No.

Don't believe this is an option on the 676.

Probably but you can always buy another cheap remote.

What do you mean 'display OSD'?

Relay clicks are normal, and without knowing your exact use scenario it's hard to say.
On the 609 when I pressed display I saw onscreen OSD with input format, output format, sound mode etc in a little overlay over content.

Clicks - e.g when I am watching Dolby demo channel on the Roku I hear clicks when it starts playing a clip and when it ends. Prob sound mode switch but I never had that before.

I haven't done a fw update because I'm scared of bricking it like someone else mentioned above. Don't even know what I'd gain with a fw update since the list of changes doesn't even apply to me.

How well does the built in Chromecast work? Can it be used to play music without turning on tv and can it be controlled via phone apps or Google Mini?
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post #942 of 957 Old 05-16-2019, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Defcon View Post
On the 609 when I pressed display I saw onscreen OSD with input format, output format, sound mode etc in a little overlay over content.

Clicks - e.g when I am watching Dolby demo channel on the Roku I hear clicks when it starts playing a clip and when it ends. Prob sound mode switch but I never had that before.

I haven't done a fw update because I'm scared of bricking it like someone else mentioned above. Don't even know what I'd gain with a fw update since the list of changes doesn't even apply to me.

How well does the built in Chromecast work? Can it be used to play music without turning on tv and can it be controlled via phone apps or Google Mini?
Gotcha. If you make sure your OSD option is on in the setup menu (might need the remote...) it will do that. My 656 does it exactly as you describe.

Yes, this clicking is normal. Possibly does it more now because of the larger variety of formats these days.

Can't comment on the fw or Chromecast because I haven't done the update and don't use that feature.
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post #943 of 957 Old 05-17-2019, 09:54 PM
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Alright I need opinions.
I have a Def-Tech Supercube III and a B&W PVD1.
I’m looking to sell both to get a proper dual sub setup....and maybe a new Receiver.

I’ve narrowed down my sub choices:
1.) Monolith Monoprice 10
2.) SVS Pb-2000

I already have an Onkyo Tx-Nr676 but I’m looking to upgrade to the RZ series. Or get a Denon X400H.


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post #944 of 957 Old 05-17-2019, 10:55 PM
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Do I need height speakers connected to enable Atmos? I only have 5.1 for now but when I play Atmos content I expect the Atmos decoder to be active - instead I see 'input: TrueHD 7.1 output: Dolby Surround', is that expected?

Also is there any way to change sound modes using the remote app? It only lists sound mode but won't even show me all the possible sound modes and is pretty unintuitive to use.
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post #945 of 957 Old 05-18-2019, 08:06 AM
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Can you control the TX-NR575 by voice through google home? If so is it only while using the built-in chrome cast? Just wondering if I can adjust the volume or anything else while playing movies..
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post #946 of 957 Old 05-18-2019, 09:44 PM
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Came across an issue I can't resolve tonight, and I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

A little background before I dive in. I have a 65c7p oled connected to a Pioneer VSX-LX101 receiver at my house. When I hit the source button on my remote for my LG TV, it will display all of the sources connected to my receiver, assuming via HDMI-CEC.

So now on to my issue. I was helping a friend connect his new Onkyo 686 to his 65b8p oled TV tonight. The receiver is very similar to my Pioneer, since they're both made by Onkyo. When we connected his receiver to the TV and hit the source button on his TV remote, it's only showing his PS4 as being connected to the receiver. It's not showing his Directv Genie box that is also connected. If we manually change the input on the receiver to CBL/SAT, it will let us watch Directv of course, but it's strange how it won't detect the Directv box as an input connected to the receiver. I went into the settings on the Directv box and confirmed that HDMI control is turned on, so I'm kind of at a loss.

Is this an issue with the Onkyo receiver? Directv box? Or possibly something wonky with the HDMI cable?
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post #947 of 957 Old 05-18-2019, 10:43 PM
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Question about Atmos

I have an Onkyo 676 but I suspect this may a common behavior across receivers with Atmos so I just want to confirm.

I have a 5.1 setup at present. When I am playing Atmos sources, I see in the audio info - input: TrueHD 7.1, output: Dolby Surround.

My qn is - do you need to have height speakers for the AVR to show Atmos? I assume it only shows DS as output mode since there are not enough speakers present? But I want to make sure that my source is passing the correct signal and AVR is working as expected.
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post #948 of 957 Old 05-19-2019, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Defcon View Post
I have an Onkyo 676 but I suspect this may a common behavior across receivers with Atmos so I just want to confirm.

I have a 5.1 setup at present. When I am playing Atmos sources, I see in the audio info - input: TrueHD 7.1, output: Dolby Surround.

My qn is - do you need to have height speakers for the AVR to show Atmos? I assume it only shows DS as output mode since there are not enough speakers present? But I want to make sure that my source is passing the correct signal and AVR is working as expected.
True HD 7.1 is the "base" level that is present in an Atmos bitstream. I'm not sure what should be displayed when it is downmixed to 5.1, but I think what you're seeing is normal.
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post #949 of 957 Old 05-19-2019, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Defcon View Post
I have an Onkyo 676 but I suspect this may a common behavior across receivers with Atmos so I just want to confirm.

I have a 5.1 setup at present. When I am playing Atmos sources, I see in the audio info - input: TrueHD 7.1, output: Dolby Surround.

My qn is - do you need to have height speakers for the AVR to show Atmos? I assume it only shows DS as output mode since there are not enough speakers present? But I want to make sure that my source is passing the correct signal and AVR is working as expected.
Yes, either a 5.1.2 or a 7.1 configuration.
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post #950 of 957 Old 05-19-2019, 12:26 PM
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Atmos soundtracks contain channels and objects (audio that is not mixed into channels but instead assigned a x,y,z location in 3D space). If you configure speakers that are fed only by objects, like wides or heights, then the Atmos decoder will be activated.

Sanjay
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post #951 of 957 Old 05-19-2019, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Yes, either a 5.1.2 or a 7.1 configuration.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobknavs View Post
True HD 7.1 is the "base" level that is present in an Atmos bitstream. I'm not sure what should be displayed when it is downmixed to 5.1, but I think what you're seeing is normal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdurani View Post
Atmos soundtracks contain channels and objects (audio that is not mixed into channels but instead assigned a x,y,z location in 3D space). If you configure speakers that are fed only by objects, like wides or heights, then the Atmos decoder will be activated.
Thanks everyone. I'm looking for height speakers to buy so I can finally hear Atmos.
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post #952 of 957 Old 05-25-2019, 08:15 PM
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I got my hands on an DTS-X Demo Disc. Including this disk, everything I watch plays through my PC. I typically keep my AVR on Dolby.

Do I have to change the movie mode based on what I am watching?
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post #953 of 957 Old 05-28-2019, 09:16 AM
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Ok, another question. Hopefully, someone can answer this one.

As I stated above, I have my ONKYO connected to my PC which plays all of my media. I have "passthrough" selected on my media players in order to allow the ONKYO to do all of the decodings.

Is there a way to control the volume through the PC still with passthrough enabled or do I have to adjust the volume directly from the ONKYO?
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post #954 of 957 Old 05-28-2019, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rufunky View Post
Ok, another question. Hopefully, someone can answer this one.



As I stated above, I have my ONKYO connected to my PC which plays all of my media. I have "passthrough" selected on my media players in order to allow the ONKYO to do all of the decodings.



Is there a way to control the volume through the PC still with passthrough enabled or do I have to adjust the volume directly from the ONKYO?


I believe once passthrough is enabled any control is now the responsibility of the Onkyo. All the Pc does is provide the encoded content.


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post #955 of 957 Old 05-28-2019, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Dwalker112 View Post
I believe once passthrough is enabled any control is now the responsibility of the Onkyo. All the Pc does is provide the encoded content.


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I was afraid that would be the answer. Thank you though
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post #956 of 957 Old 06-02-2019, 04:25 PM
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Hopefully enough of you still see this thread as I'm having an issue that's baffling me. I recently purchased a Samsung Q90R. All my components are hooked to the 676 then the out goes to the One Connect Box of the Samsung. ALL of my components except my Nvidia Shield have the TV turn off after 20 minutes. I cannot figure it out. I have gone through all settings on both the 676 and the Q90 to be sure there aren't any econo settings that would turn it off and they're all disabled. I had used the same components and the 676 for months prior to upgrading the TV. I also cannot figure out why the Shield is not experiencing this same issue. I can still hear the device playing after the TV turns off so it's some sort of issue with the signal being sent from the 676 that the TV thinks is not there. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Here is what I've tried so far:


1) Changed the HDMI cable to the ROKU - no change
2) Turned off Auto Standby - No change
3) Switched to the CEC input on the OCB - no change
4) Connected the Roku direct to the OCB - no shutoffs during a 60 minute episode
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post #957 of 957 Old Today, 02:42 AM
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Hi guys, I have a new NR676E, used for 14 months watching movies n playing xbox, now the HDMI display output is missing signal. Did minor troubleshooting myself by swapping HDMI cables, devices, n still had the same problems. Brought down to distributor n the tech told me cost 500 to change the board! Is more than half the price of a new unit when first bought. Brought the unit home without changing n switched it on few days. It worked again for a few movies and back to same problem. Is there a cheaper alternative to change the board or whatever that is causing this problem? Or do I need to get a new unit? Thanks.

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