Yamaha RX-A3070 / A2070 / A1070 Aventage Owners' Thread - Page 177 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5281 of 5341 Old 05-25-2020, 05:41 PM
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Anybody have a reference for Yamaha dealer. I
Go directly to Deals Thread, do not pass GO, do not collect $200.

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post #5282 of 5341 Old 05-25-2020, 06:04 PM
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Go directly to Deals Thread, do not pass GO, do not collect $200.
Chrome is correct. Please take any deals, street pricing or where to buy to the deals sticky or deals forum.

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post #5283 of 5341 Old 05-25-2020, 06:34 PM
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Chrome is correct. Please take any deals, street pricing or where to buy to the deals sticky or deals forum.
My apologies. I'm a bit confused. I didn't ask for a deal or price. I only asked for a reference for a dealer. I'm subscribed to other threads were dealers are recommended based on the customer service and shipping reliability. Is this an AVS rule that I'm breaking?
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post #5284 of 5341 Old 05-25-2020, 06:37 PM
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My apologies. I'm a bit confused. I didn't ask for a deal or price. I only asked for a reference for a dealer. I'm subscribed to other threads were dealers are recommended based on the customer service and shipping reliability. Is this an AVS rule that I'm breaking?
No worries, but if you opened up the link, you'd see this


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They don't want the tech forum to turn into street pricing or where to buy/dealer discussions.

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post #5285 of 5341 Old 05-25-2020, 06:45 PM
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Chrome is correct. Please take any deals, street pricing or where to buy to the deals sticky or deals forum.
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No worries, but if you opened up the link, you'd see this


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We do not allow price discussions or "where to buy" X receiver/amp etc in this forum. We have added this sticky

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...l#post54630702

for those discussions and questions. We have a "great deals" forum (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/122-great-found-deals/) for that discussion too.

If pricing and other related discussions continue, you'll receive an infraction and maybe banned from participating in that thread


************************

They don't want the tech forum to turn into street pricing or where to buy/dealer discussions.
Thank you for the clarification. I did open the link, but interpreted it different. I thought saying where to buy was referred to members saying you should buy this model from this person at this price.
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post #5286 of 5341 Old 05-25-2020, 10:06 PM
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Is the DTS decoding removal for dolby tracks, a reason enough to stick to A3070 instead of A3080?
One of my friend is looking and I suggested Yamaha, being a happy customer of A3070 for 2 years now.

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Anybody have a reference for Yamaha dealer. I
What's your location?

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post #5287 of 5341 Old 05-26-2020, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by BhootZ View Post
Is the DTS decoding removal for dolby tracks, a reason enough to stick to A3070 instead of A3080?
One of my friend is looking and I suggested Yamaha, being a happy customer of A3070 for 2 years now.
I believe that would depend on how much you use/rely on the DTS decoding. Myself, I prefer Dolby Surround in my environment so don't use DTX Neural:X.

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post #5288 of 5341 Old 05-26-2020, 01:13 PM
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I believe that would depend on how much you use/rely on the DTS decoding. Myself, I prefer Dolby Surround in my environment so don't use DTX Neural:X.
I've seen a lot of times the dsu not really utilizing the top channels whereas dts does use them.
Also in dsu the height speakers are limited to left and right in stereo mode. So in case you're running 4 on top, it'll profuse same sound in both the left and both the right speakers, whereas dts can actually run a .4 discrete channel
Read
https://www.highdefdigest.com/blog/d...er-comparison/

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post #5289 of 5341 Old 05-29-2020, 10:03 AM
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Even when you pair something with a new device, be sure to DELETE the pairing from the previous device. I can't speak to the menus (p.133 ?), but in the AVR, ensure you've removed the remembered paring with the Jambox.

Try the AVR's advanced settings web interface at http://[ip address of AVR]/Setup/ . The specific page may differ from model to model.

I have deleted the paring in the aspect that the paired devices only show the yellow check mark on the 'devices' page which doesn't show in the manual - it only appears when you actually search to connect a device. It shows all paired devices and the yellow check mark is next to the device I want to use. There are other devices present on this screen and that's where I'm think the issue may lie - even though only one device has the check mark denoting active, other devices are present and when I turn on the other device the current device loses connectivity - like the AVR is trying to connect to two devices which is why I wanted to delete the other device.


FWIW I did speak to Yamaha and they said the only way to remove a paired device was to perform a hard reset using a series of button presses from the main panel - not the remote. They did send me the series of commands just haven't gone there yet.
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post #5290 of 5341 Old 05-30-2020, 03:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BhootZ View Post
Is the DTS decoding removal for dolby tracks, a reason enough to stick to A3070 instead of A3080?
One of my friend is looking and I suggested Yamaha, being a happy customer of A3070 for 2 years now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
I believe that would depend on how much you use/rely on the DTS decoding. Myself, I prefer Dolby Surround in my environment so don't use DTX Neural:X.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BhootZ View Post
I've seen a lot of times the dsu not really utilizing the top channels whereas dts does use them.
Also in dsu the height speakers are limited to left and right in stereo mode. So in case you're running 4 on top, it'll profuse same sound in both the left and both the right speakers, whereas dts can actually run a .4 discrete channel
Read
https://www.highdefdigest.com/blog/d...er-comparison/
I also prefer Neural:X because I think it sounds crystal clear while by comparison the DSU sounds muddy to me. Never went so far as to figure out why. I just keep the surround decoder set to Neural:X and turn it off and on using the Straight button next to the Surround Decode button ("SUR. DECODE") - I avoid using the Surround Decode button itself because that toggles through all the DSP choices.

I keep it set by default to Straight, but if Display shows that the film doesn't use Atmos or X a quick tap of the Straight button turns on Neural:X. Exception: if I know a film is in 2.0, I use the all channel stereo option - what I think of as "Car Stereo" mode: it ties all channels on each side of the room together. On the 3070 it's called "9 Channel Stereo" (though it really should be called "11").

But the original poster's question really should be answered, since I thought Dolby had recently agreed to drop its ban on using other upmixers on their tracks.
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post #5291 of 5341 Old 05-30-2020, 03:56 AM
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I also prefer Neural:X because I think it sounds crystal clear while by comparison the DSU sounds muddy to me. Never went so far as to figure out why. I just keep the surround decoder set to Neural:X and turn it off and on using the Straight button next to the Surround Decode button ("SUR. DECODE") - I avoid using the Surround Decode button itself because that toggles through all the DSP choices.



I keep it set by default to Straight, but if Display shows that the film doesn't use Atmos or X a quick tap of the Straight button turns on Neural:X. Exception: if I know a film is in 2.0, I use the all channel stereo option - what I think of as "Car Stereo" mode: it ties all channels on each side of the room together. On the 3070 it's called "9 Channel Stereo" (though it really should be called "11").



But the original poster's question really should be answered, since I thought Dolby had recently agreed to drop its ban on using other upmixers on their tracks.
I think the dsu will give effects to even a 2.0 track, just not sure how good it'll go to heights. You could try the legacy dsurr/dts by leaving it in auto throughout. A lot of the new re-release uhd blu ray switched from DTS 5.1 HD to Atmos and most people myself included found it sounding awful. 9 channel stereo is only for radio/casual listening imo.

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post #5292 of 5341 Old 05-30-2020, 06:01 AM
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Hey folks, question - although I am sure it's nothing to do with my AVR but rather other technology. I was watching remember the titans on BR disk, my player decided to default to 5.1DD. My 2070 and 820 both displayed DD encoding. There was an audio option in the disk menu for 5.1DD uncompressed so I picked that thinking it should be better. Oddly, the AVR just displayed PCM after that with no other indicators of surround mode. Also, my player also did not display any surround decode info. I don't understand this behavior, any ideas?


(I just left it in 5.1 uncompressed without jumping back and fourth trying to determine which is better, my wife was already in the room and she is extremely impatient to me attempting to learn about these things)

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post #5293 of 5341 Old 05-30-2020, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BhootZ View Post
Is the DTS decoding removal for dolby tracks, a reason enough to stick to A3070 instead of A3080?
One of my friend is looking and I suggested Yamaha, being a happy customer of A3070 for 2 years now.

This is one of the reasons I kept my old A2050 as well. Setting aside all the DSU vs DTS:X comparisons, the basic encoding/decoding fabric has led me to a virtual "Chinese wall" between the 2. That is, I tend to use DSU for Dolby-based soundtracks and Neural:X for DTS-based soundtracks. Having said that, I almost never use DSU for anything--instead favoring some of the Yamaha DSP modes (Adventure/Sci-Fi/etc). Neural:X really shines on some "custom" DTS soundtracks, like the older Star Wars (1-6) and T2 6.1 mixes.

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post #5294 of 5341 Old 05-30-2020, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by marcosphoto View Post
Hey folks, question - although I am sure it's nothing to do with my AVR but rather other technology. I was watching remember the titans on BR disk, my player decided to default to 5.1DD. My 2070 and 820 both displayed DD encoding. There was an audio option in the disk menu for 5.1DD uncompressed so I picked that thinking it should be better. Oddly, the AVR just displayed PCM after that with no other indicators of surround mode. Also, my player also did not display any surround decode info. I don't understand this behavior, any ideas?


(I just left it in 5.1 uncompressed without jumping back and fourth trying to determine which is better, my wife was already in the room and she is extremely impatient to me attempting to learn about these things)
I guess it's more to do with the player not able to decode the track properly, have you tried the Surr Auto? Probably will default to Dsurr (DSU)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Stanton View Post
This is one of the reasons I kept my old A2050 as well. Setting aside all the DSU vs DTS:X comparisons, the basic encoding/decoding fabric has led me to a virtual "Chinese wall" between the 2. That is, I tend to use DSU for Dolby-based soundtracks and Neural:X for DTS-based soundtracks. Having said that, I almost never use DSU for anything--instead favoring some of the Yamaha DSP modes (Adventure/Sci-Fi/etc). Neural:X really shines on some "custom" DTS soundtracks, like the older Star Wars (1-6) and T2 6.1 mixes.
Hate all these brand wars that have started forcing brands and promotions over others. Like the compulsory Netflix dedicated button that needs to exist in remotes for licensing Netflix services. From that day I've stopped my Netflix subscription and reprogrammed the dedicated button as a shortcut to Spotify. All Tvs and all Shields. Easy to do it in Android TV OS.
I just don't like hard sells and compulsory weights. I do miss a few shows and I'm sure that Netflix isn't going to shut down coz I unsubscribed, but I do right by me...

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post #5295 of 5341 Old 05-30-2020, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by BhootZ View Post
Hate all these brand wars that have started forcing brands and promotions over others. Like the compulsory Netflix dedicated button that needs to exist in remotes for licensing Netflix services. From that day I've stopped my Netflix subscription and reprogrammed the dedicated button as a shortcut to Spotify. All Tvs and all Shields. Easy to do it in Android TV OS.
I just don't like hard sells and compulsory weights. I do miss a few shows and I'm sure that Netflix isn't going to shut down coz I unsubscribed, but I do right by me...
On my new Shield I used the Button Mapper app (from the built-in Google Play Store link) to simply de-activate a single press of the Neflix button - which is large, raised, and easily hit by accident, taking you out of whatever's playing. I set it for
One press=No action
Double press=App Switcher
Press and Hold=Setup menu.

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post #5296 of 5341 Old 05-30-2020, 10:38 AM
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Would be nice if someone answered the original poster's question about whether the x080 series allows Neural:X to be used on Dolby soundracks.

Phil
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Would be nice if someone answered the original poster's question about whether the x080 series allows Neural:X to be used on Dolby soundracks.
Posting in the x080 thread might be a good place to start.

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Posting in the x080 thread might be a good place to start.
OK thanks I'll do that.



Quote:
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On my new Shield I used the Button Mapper app (from the built-in Google Play Store link) to simply de-activate a single press of the Neflix button - which is large, raised, and easily hit by accident, taking you out of whatever's playing. I set it for

One press=No action

Double press=App Switcher

Press and Hold=Setup menu.
Using the same app.

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Hi, I call an RX-A3070 my own, which replaced my RX-V3067 when I switched to an LG 65C8 and needed everything 4K ready. Besides the subpar and slow UI, which every 20 EUR device with UI can do better, I am quite happy.

I just have one problem to solve, I want to be able to use the amp as audio device on my Windows 10 PC. A HDMI connection would be the easiest way, but that's at the moment not possible. Using the "Server" function is more or less useless with a larger audio library and I am limited to formats, which the amp can read.

In the past I used AirFoil which allows to stream audio to an AirPlay device, but that stopped working some day. The logical solution would be some Windows MusicCast server, but seems Yamaha is only promoting more and more MusicCast hardware and does not care for the software side. At least I was not able to find a Windows MusicCast app/server.

My last idea was, to connect the RX-A3070 as a Bluetooth speaker, but my Windows is not able to find the amp as audio device. Can I connect the amp as USB device?

I simply want to be able to route audio from any Windows 10 application to the amp. Best solution would be in form of an audio device, because this would allow this per application option and would not collide with other setups running on my PC.

Does anyone have a solution or should I fiddle out a way to connect via HDMI? But having another display device on my setup (triple monitors plus VR), when I just need audio is overkill, not speaking of problems like turning off displays after x minutes killing the audio link and so on.
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post #5300 of 5341 Old 06-04-2020, 02:41 PM
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Hi, I call an RX-A3070 my own, which replaced my RX-V3067 when I switched to an LG 65C8 and needed everything 4K ready. Besides the subpar and slow UI, which every 20 EUR device with UI can do better, I am quite happy.

I just have one problem to solve, I want to be able to use the amp as audio device on my Windows 10 PC. A HDMI connection would be the easiest way, but that's at the moment not possible. Using the "Server" function is more or less useless with a larger audio library and I am limited to formats, which the amp can read.

In the past I used AirFoil which allows to stream audio to an AirPlay device, but that stopped working some day. The logical solution would be some Windows MusicCast server, but seems Yamaha is only promoting more and more MusicCast hardware and does not care for the software side. At least I was not able to find a Windows MusicCast app/server.

My last idea was, to connect the RX-A3070 as a Bluetooth speaker, but my Windows is not able to find the amp as audio device. Can I connect the amp as USB device?

I simply want to be able to route audio from any Windows 10 application to the amp. Best solution would be in form of an audio device, because this would allow this per application option and would not collide with other setups running on my PC.

Does anyone have a solution or should I fiddle out a way to connect via HDMI? But having another display device on my setup (triple monitors plus VR), when I just need audio is overkill, not speaking of problems like turning off displays after x minutes killing the audio link and so on.
So I am a li'l confused. Maybe it's the sleep. You want to play media from your pc to the receiver, eg movies TV music etc? I'd suggest buying an nvidia shield and that li'l bugger has an app to play a thing and everything. I personally use plex and I have a huge collection of media that I view. Another option with nvidia shield is kodi.

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post #5301 of 5341 Old 06-05-2020, 03:40 AM
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So I am a li'l confused. Maybe it's the sleep. You want to play media from your pc to the receiver, eg movies TV music etc? I'd suggest buying an nvidia shield and that li'l bugger has an app to play a thing and everything. I personally use plex and I have a huge collection of media that I view. Another option with nvidia shield is kodi.

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I just want to play audio (from e.g. my browser like SoundCloud, Foobar or whatever is playing on my PC) and I want a simple setup. I have a Shield and use Kodi too. But using the Shield forces me to turn on my OLED TV and I cannot control everything from my PC. Or is there some kind of remote app so I can use the Shield headless?
But must of the time I am sitting at my desk with my PC on anyway when working. So I want a simple way to play a audio source from my PC to my not so cheap amp. Would I have a Mac I could use AirPlay and it's shame that there is no such simple solution for Windows 10 based systems. At least I have not found one.



The most elegant way would be to nest the Yamaha amp as audio device in the system or have some kind of MusicCast app. HDMI or simple analog connection is no option.
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post #5302 of 5341 Old 06-05-2020, 03:57 AM
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If browser is the main problem then take analogue out from computer to analog in receiver. Since most of the things will not have anything more than 2 channel compressed audio encoding, you won't really miss out on the finer details.
As far as my files are concerned, my yamaha A3070 is able to connect to my freenas server through "NET" button connected over ethernet and play every audio file I've thrown at it. Don't think I've hit a wall anywhere.
A little more complicated setup would be the best IMO. Connect the computer to the amp via hdmi and use out 2 from AVR to desktop monitor. Using the "HDMI out" key on the remote, you can choose when you want the receiver to send video to TV or to the monitor or to both. You can even put it to off and the signal won't be sent anywhere.
I generally use the off button when I am streaming podcasts or listening to playlists.

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post #5303 of 5341 Old 06-06-2020, 02:40 AM
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Thanks, I will play a little bit with those mention HDMI settings or maybe try to use my optical digital out from my PC.


I use the web interface to play and chose files from my network share, but browsing the content is awful slow.


Just hoped for some easy wireless/fully digital way, like AirPlay in the Apple world. Seems Windows is only for playing games
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post #5304 of 5341 Old 06-06-2020, 02:44 AM
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Yamaha and windows work with DLNA. Shared folders can be accessed through yamaha net.

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post #5305 of 5341 Old 06-06-2020, 01:34 PM
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If your PC has an HDMI output, connect it to the Yamaha and then you can find the Yamaha as an audio output device.

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post #5306 of 5341 Old 06-06-2020, 06:42 PM
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I have a triple monitor setup for my work and I am happy that the screens go to sleep after 15 minutes of idling, but this would also cut off the HDMI connection to the amp.
So if I would listen to music from my PC, all monitors must stay on. That's quite a lot for just listening to music. I guess I will try the optical digital out as a workaround.
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post #5307 of 5341 Old 06-06-2020, 07:39 PM
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I stream music that's in local storage on my computer using DLNA rendering, controlled from my phone. No need to turn on a monitor or protector.

The control apps are the free BubbleUPnP Server and the $5 Android BubbleUPnP, plus the $30 Twonky DLNA file server.

This combo makes music browsable on the phone - with album art while browsing - and searchable with mp3 tags, which can be applied to lossless FLAC files by the free Mp3tag utility.

Choose what you want and "cast" it to your 3070 in "server" mode, gaplessly. (The 3070, PC, and phone have to be on the same network, of course.) I use the term "cast" generically - the phone just tells BubbleUPnP Server on the PC to push the music to the 3070 as a DLNA "renderer" an approach that looks and feels like the Chromecast approach, except that the music doesn't go through the phone, which just acts as a controller. You can control volume and track selection with your phone.

Yamaha doesn't call their Aventage AVRs DLNA renderers - but they are, and they can be set as gapless OpenHome renderers inside BubbleUPnP Server. Set up a login and password and your phone can play your music away from home through its speaker or headphone jack - plug it into your car stereo! - and even link your library to a friend's DLNA player when your phone is on their wifi.

PS This also works for music and video files cast to an Oppo 103/105/203/205 disk player or foobar2000 on the PC.

PPS BubbleUPnP won't transcode your files unless you tell it to, so you can have full fidelity at home but set your phone ask for mp3s when you're using cellular data.

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post #5308 of 5341 Old 06-07-2020, 01:29 AM
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I have a triple monitor setup for my work and I am happy that the screens go to sleep after 15 minutes of idling, but this would also cut off the HDMI connection to the amp.
So if I would listen to music from my PC, all monitors must stay on. That's quite a lot for just listening to music. I guess I will try the optical digital out as a workaround.
You can select hdmi out off and that won't affect the status of the screens. When I listen to Spotify or podcasts I just select the nvidia shield as input and HDMI OFF for a "simple solution"

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post #5309 of 5341 Old 06-07-2020, 06:15 AM
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I just want to play audio (from e.g. my browser like SoundCloud, Foobar or whatever is playing on my PC) and I want a simple setup.
You have a few options. As bhootz said, Yamaha has DLNA built in to grab files from your network, you can use an hdmi cable to directly connect the amp and your computer. The other option would be to get a Bluetooth adapter for your computer (assuming it doesn’t already have one) and use the AVR’s built in MusicCast app. That’s probably the simplest method.

Why is there NO perfect equipment, only compromises?
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post #5310 of 5341 Old 06-12-2020, 09:21 AM
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Thanks for all the answers.

I have found this "Cast" option in Windows 10 and there is also a foobar2000 component called "UPnP MediaRenderer Output", which allows me to directly cast to the Yamaha from foobar. No extra cable, because everything is connected to my network anyway.

Now I need this cast option as a simple audio device, so every app in windows could use the Yamaha

My onboard Bluetooth controller seems not to able to identify the Yamaha as audio player? Or can the amp just transmit?

Last edited by Spawn182; 06-13-2020 at 12:43 AM.
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