*Official* Marantz 2017 NR1508/1608, SR5012/6012/7012 owner's thread - Page 107 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3181 of 4771 Old 11-18-2018, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by PG55 View Post
Hello,


If I set my "reference level offset" to 15db for listening to music in stereo as recommended do I have to reset it back to 0db when watching movies or does the Marantz AVR save the setting for each source?
By source but you can also use a SMART SELECT button to save this setting as well.
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post #3182 of 4771 Old 11-18-2018, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by muscles View Post
Apples to oranges comparison. CPU's do not behave like amplifiers. The reason I attributed it to heat was that when I used it for longer periods of time the hum would get louder and louder, upon cooling it was almost non-existent. I have owned more AV equipment than almost anyone and I can tell you that this current gen of Marantz receivers get VERY hot for what they are. My Mcintosh gear doesn't even get warm, even when pushed to the limit for hours.

Authorized dealer even thought it was heat related. Keep them cool guys!

Greg
So by your standards my Mark Levinson amp is a piece of crap, eh? Well, you seem to have a "thing" about equipment running cool. My ML would get pretty toasty when run moderately hard (it was NEVER driven to it's capacity in the 30+ years that I've had it). And how would you know that you have owned more equipment than "almost everyone". Are you trying to establish some sort of "street cred" for your comments to carry more weight. Sorry, but it didn't work for me. cheers!


PS: And my Marantz AVR doesn't get too hot, either, FYI. It's just a few months old--NR1608.

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post #3183 of 4771 Old 11-18-2018, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
Can I save my XT32 cal and reload it later if I don't like the new results? This is using the AVR setup. What if I buy the $20 app?

thx

bob
Yes. Saving to a thumb drive saves all of the config settings + Audyssey to the same file name each time so either you have to save different back ups to a separate thumb drive or you would have to rename it to something else and then rename it back to LOAD it. The MultEQ Editor app is much simpler in that it is only saving the EQ and you can provide your own file name for each saved EQ such that multiple EQs (or the primary EQ and multiple copies that you can then edit to try out different settings) can be saved on your phone/tablet.
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post #3184 of 4771 Old 11-18-2018, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
Is there a way to not have the volume level move so fast when press and hold? I know you can tap tap but looking for a happy medium!

bob
One easy work around is to have the AVR initial volume start at your normal TV listening volume level. Then you need only tap-tap-tap to raise it a few dB when you want to watch movies a little louder.
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post #3185 of 4771 Old 11-18-2018, 04:57 PM
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Thank you so much and have a great week!
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post #3186 of 4771 Old 11-18-2018, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muscles View Post
Apples to oranges comparison. CPU's do not behave like amplifiers. The reason I attributed it to heat was that when I used it for longer periods of time the hum would get louder and louder, upon cooling it was almost non-existent. I have owned more AV equipment than almost anyone and I can tell you that this current gen of Marantz receivers get VERY hot for what they are. My Mcintosh gear doesn't even get warm, even when pushed to the limit for hours.

Authorized dealer even thought it was heat related. Keep them cool guys!

Greg
We'll have to agree to disagree. I've got a Class A/AB power amplifier that gets MUCH hotter in Class A mode than this and it's 2-channel only! I mean HOT! (you can't keep your hand there). I still use that amp (mostly in AB mode since Carver ribbons need more power than Class A mode offers with it, but it's almost 35 years old now and still works like new! It's only slightly less hot in Class AB mode as the Marantz (180 watts into 4 Ohms). This 7012 I have gets warm at best (i.e. I can keep my hand on top of it all day long). My Yamaha AVR is probably 10-15 degrees cooler (lukewarm by comparison, but then it's a lot less power per channel and two less channels total and doesn't run HDMI. My 1st Gen AppleTV got at least 20 degrees warmer than this Marantz. You could barely touch it for long. It still lasted 10 years before I retired it (still works) despite "apples to oranges" as you seem to think despite the fact a transistor is a transistor and Marantz sells these units to be operated at these temperatures with a warranty for 3 years.

I don't know what every manufacturer is using these days but Class D amps have become much more popular. They are far more efficient (so they can run cooler) than Class AB. Class A typically runs the hottest as it's the least efficient.

Hum that increases says to me it's likely a transformer issue. That would likely get worse as it heats up if there's a defect in it (partial break in winding) until it snaps (dead receiver as the power supply would be dead). That would not happen without a defect, however.
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Click THEATER (Updated: May-22-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 10-13-19)
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post #3187 of 4771 Old 11-18-2018, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dave1812dave View Post
So by your standards my Mark Levinson amp is a piece of crap, eh? Well, you seem to have a "thing" about equipment running cool. My ML would get pretty toasty when run moderately hard (it was NEVER driven to it's capacity in the 30+ years that I've had it). And how would you know that you have owned more equipment than "almost everyone". Are you trying to establish some sort of "street cred" for your comments to carry more weight. Sorry, but it didn't work for me. cheers!


PS: And my Marantz AVR doesn't get too hot, either, FYI. It's just a few months old--NR1608.
How is this relevant to what I posted? I have had 6 receivers in the last 5 years, I was merely stating that the marantz unit was by far the hottest running AVR. You are posting in the wrong forum, I am not familiar with NR1608???? I even spoke to Marantz a number of times over the phone and they told me to take it to an authorized repair center. I stated that the problem intensified as the unit got hotter (that is why I mentioned heat).

Nothing you posted helped or was even related to my issue with my SR7012.

I realize there could be many variables to why this happened and the defect. Just seemed weird to have it happen after about a year of flawless work from the AVR.

Subwoofers: Dual Rythmik F18SEs - SB13 Ultra
Speakers: Martin Logan Expressions - Martin Logan ESL-C - SVS Ultra Surrounds - KEF LS50W
Audio:McIntosh C2600 Pre - Marantz SR-8012 -Dual McIntosh 601's- McIntosh MT5 - McIntosh MP100 - Oppo UDP-205 - Panamax M5300PMx2 - Apple TV 4k - BlueSound Node 2
TV: Samsung 75" Q9FN - Sony 75" 940D
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post #3188 of 4771 Old 11-18-2018, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by MagnumX View Post

I don't know what every manufacturer is using these days but Class D amps have become much more popular. They are far more efficient (so they can run cooler) than Class AB. Class A typically runs the hottest as it's the least efficient.

Hum that increases says to me it's likely a transformer issue. That would likely get worse as it heats up if there's a defect in it (partial break in winding) until it snaps (dead receiver as the power supply would be dead). That would not happen without a defect, however.
Do you think this could have happened after a year of normal use? Would this be something that would have started right away if it were a defect? It doesn't matter at this point. I turned the AVR in and have something else now.

Greg

Subwoofers: Dual Rythmik F18SEs - SB13 Ultra
Speakers: Martin Logan Expressions - Martin Logan ESL-C - SVS Ultra Surrounds - KEF LS50W
Audio:McIntosh C2600 Pre - Marantz SR-8012 -Dual McIntosh 601's- McIntosh MT5 - McIntosh MP100 - Oppo UDP-205 - Panamax M5300PMx2 - Apple TV 4k - BlueSound Node 2
TV: Samsung 75" Q9FN - Sony 75" 940D
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post #3189 of 4771 Old 11-18-2018, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by muscles View Post
Do you think this could have happened after a year of normal use? Would this be something that would have started right away if it were a defect? It doesn't matter at this point. I turned the AVR in and have something else now.

Greg
I guess it doesn't matter now. But yes, transformer defects/problems aren't exactly rare things. Most LED or compact fluorescent light bulbs I have had fail in less than a year are due to faulty transformers on them (the actual LED lasts forever by comparison). On larger fluorescent lights, it's the ballast (same thing, though).

Click THEATER (Updated: May-22-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 10-13-19)
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post #3190 of 4771 Old 11-19-2018, 02:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muscles View Post
Do you think this could have happened after a year of normal use? Would this be something that would have started right away if it were a defect? It doesn't matter at this point. I turned the AVR in and have something else now.

Greg
Just to add my thoughts on the hum and heat issue.
From experience, 90% of amplifiers I have seen that show this exact behaviour have their output transistors go into thermal runaway. They start off cool and drain current normally, then progressively gets hotter and hotter - draining more and more current. At a certain point they would sound very nice as they transition into class A (and beyond). Then when the source is silent, one would notice the hums also progressively get louder. The output transistors would be draining too much current that the power supply circuit can no longer effectively filter the pulsating DC hums.
This thermal runaway situation can be due to deterioration of the cheap potentiometers used to adjust the thermal tracking circuitry (Vbe multiplier) to dynamically adjust the 'bias' of the amplifiers.
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post #3191 of 4771 Old 11-19-2018, 03:39 AM
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I also asked the Marantz support if the AV-Receivers that already have Dolby Vision support will also get an upgrade that supports HDR10+ passthrough.

I just received the following answer from the support:


According to our current information, there will be no HDR10 + upgrade for the NR1608. If there is a change, we will announce this on our homepage.


I hope this will change. My TV and Blu-Ray Player already support HDR10+.



*** answer about the awkward USB-Stick playback performance still open ***
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post #3192 of 4771 Old 11-19-2018, 08:53 AM
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So I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this but since Alexa works with the marantz I thought I would ask since I'm assuming some will have experience with Marantz and Alexa. I have everything connected via my Marantz for one.I'm able to play Music from Alexa to the Marantz somewhat still trying to get hang of it. When I turn on my gear directv/sony a1e I'm able to use the directv remote turns on simultaneously, the Marantz I have to use the Marantz remote(not a big deal). How can I turn on if possible everything simultaneously The directv/sony A1e and the Marantz sr7012 with Alexa. Not sure if anyone is set up this way. If wrong place to post let me know.

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post #3193 of 4771 Old 11-19-2018, 11:29 PM
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My marantz also gets toasty just driving 4 height speakers, I purchased a AcInfinity Aircom t9 to keep it chilly
It also follows the curve of the marantz front facia
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post #3194 of 4771 Old 11-20-2018, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Arr V Rrr View Post
I just received the following answer from the support:


According to our current information, there will be no HDR10 + upgrade for the NR1608. If there is a change, we will announce this on our homepage.

I hope this will change. My TV and Blu-Ray Player already support HDR10+.



*** answer about the awkward USB-Stick playback performance still open ***



*** update: I asked the Marantz support which model i should buy now if i want to be sure to get HDR10+ support in the future. The only AVR that gets an HDR10+ upgrade is the Marantz AV8805. Thats 4000 bucks VS the 400 bucks i paid for my little NR1608. So i personally wait for a new slim NR-model that will support HDR10+ and sell my poor little 1608. Good thing is my info and knowledge-lvl increased and i can lay back and watch the HDR10+ / Dolby Vision war ***
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post #3195 of 4771 Old 11-20-2018, 08:13 AM
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My marantz also gets toasty just driving 4 height speakers, I purchased a AcInfinity Aircom t9 to keep it chilly
It also follows the curve of the marantz front facia

Toasty isn't a helpful or useful description. Please measure the measured temperature of the case in several places and post the results. Please also describe your units installation or post a picture.
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post #3196 of 4771 Old 11-20-2018, 08:32 AM
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Turns out that this receiver actually died. I suspect the design isn't the best from a cooling perspective. I have always kept it in an open air environment and have always been amazed at how hot this unit gets. If you are thinking of purchasing a Marantz receiver, I suggest you get the extended warranty. This is the fastest I have seen a receiver burn out (little less than a year). Keep in mind that I use it light to medium, not a heavy user. They don't make stuff like they used to

Greg

The Marantz warranty is 3 years on a new unit purchased from an authorized dealer. Using a Citibank credit card, Costco Visa for example, will add 2 years. Do you have actual extensive failure data to back your recommendation?
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post #3197 of 4771 Old 11-20-2018, 09:04 AM
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Toasty isn't a helpful or useful description. Please measure the measured temperature of the case in several places and post the results. Please also describe your units installation or post a picture.
My marantz is in open air, I have not followed the recent discussion nor had any major concern for its temperature as every avr I ever had gets ToastY. With the ac infinity it gets hot no more,I purchased the fan unit because I dont know what to do with my money.... It also makes sense as it doesnt go past 85 now..

As for how hot it was before? Probably just as hot as every other owners 7012 gets imo


i also returned my first 7012 after 2 weeks due to other problems and have a replacement with less them 3 hours on it...Seems like it runs at the same temp as the last one, feeling by hand, no problem imo...The fan unit was cheap enough, im actually waiting for a replacement as my temp probe on the fan unit was defective

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post #3198 of 4771 Old 11-20-2018, 12:07 PM
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The Marantz warranty is 3 years on a new unit purchased from an authorized dealer. Using a Citibank credit card, Costco Visa for example, will add 2 years. Do you have actual extensive failure data to back your recommendation?
Marantz wanted me to get it serviced by either taking it to an authorized repair center or actually sending it to one. I don't like to be without my setup so I just bought an SR8012 with an extended warranty. I don't like to waste too much time on things, as it is I spent a good 5+ hours troubleshooting this thing. I didn't feel it was necessary to spend any more precious time on a budget receiver. Onward and upward.

Greg

Subwoofers: Dual Rythmik F18SEs - SB13 Ultra
Speakers: Martin Logan Expressions - Martin Logan ESL-C - SVS Ultra Surrounds - KEF LS50W
Audio:McIntosh C2600 Pre - Marantz SR-8012 -Dual McIntosh 601's- McIntosh MT5 - McIntosh MP100 - Oppo UDP-205 - Panamax M5300PMx2 - Apple TV 4k - BlueSound Node 2
TV: Samsung 75" Q9FN - Sony 75" 940D
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post #3199 of 4771 Old 11-20-2018, 08:27 PM
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Weak IR 7012

I have to point right at the 7012 to get it to respond. Yes, new Duracell batteries. Same issue with URC Remote so it's the sensor end. Normal for these?

thx

bob
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post #3200 of 4771 Old 11-21-2018, 05:08 AM
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I have to point right at the 7012 to get it to respond. Yes, new Duracell batteries. Same issue with URC Remote so it's the sensor end. Normal for these?

thx

bob
I noticed that too. I think the remote IR emitter is pretty narrowly focused.

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post #3201 of 4771 Old 11-21-2018, 05:28 AM
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I have to point right at the 7012 to get it to respond. Yes, new Duracell batteries. Same issue with URC Remote so it's the sensor end. Normal for these?

thx

bob
IR reception is much worse on my 6012 compared to the 6008 that it replaced.

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post #3202 of 4771 Old 11-21-2018, 06:07 AM
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I have to point right at the 7012 to get it to respond. Yes, new Duracell batteries. Same issue with URC Remote so it's the sensor end. Normal for these?

thx

bob
I don't have that issue here with my 7012 (general direction works fine), but then I'm using the learning remote from my old 7010 instead as it's a vastly better remote, IMO.

Click THEATER (Updated: May-22-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 10-13-19)
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post #3203 of 4771 Old 11-22-2018, 08:14 AM
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SR7012 and Audyssey question. Love the receiver. Actually using it as a pre/pro running a Parasound Halo for my fronts and a Cinepro for my center and rears. Only running 5.1. I just moved from an old AV7005 and I have to say the SR7012 does not disappoint for music or video. Couple of questions and I hope this is the right place to ask. When running Audyssey it lowers my levels to the point I have to crank the volume on the 7012 to 70-75 to get moderate to loud volume. Maybe this okay? More importantly it calls my Legacy Audio Focus HDs full range (Which they are) and sets crossover at 40hz. Should I leave them at full range or change them to small? Does it matter at a crossover of 40hz? My Focus HD towers range are 18Hz – 30 kHz. Thanks for any help or pointers.

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post #3204 of 4771 Old 11-22-2018, 08:32 AM
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Does it matter what the volume level number is? Can it get as loud as you ever need? You may want to run Audyssey again being diligent about mic location and background noise, i.e. clocks ticking, refrigerator running, A/C or heat running, etc. I know it sounds overboard, but it does influence the calibration.


Assuming you have a sub(s) set them to small and let the "beasts" handle the frequencies they are better at. You can play with the crossover frequency to see what works best for your system in your room.

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post #3205 of 4771 Old 11-22-2018, 09:35 AM
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Anyone else try out the DTS: Virtual X mode? You have to change your amp assignments to get it to appear. I'm not sure what all works with it, but a 7.1 base with no overheads did. It will use all those bed speakers whereas the generic "virtual" mode only uses two speakers, but can be selected even with all 11.2 channels assigned. It also doesn't work as well for simulating heights.

First of note is that for Virtual X to function you must have a DTS source. In other words, it won't work with Atmos or any Dolby modes (I'm sure Dolby will be happy about that, but I wasn't). Most Auro-3D movies will work since they have a DTS base track (Red Tails being an exception as it's pure PCM based).

This is a shame as the height effect without my actual overheads being on is often uncanny!!! The DTS "object" ball demo was almost as good as using my actual six channel overheads from the MLP. The "callout" demo wasn't quite as believable (bit of sound bed noticeable compared to pure heights), but given it simulates four overheads (i.e. The rear speakers are used to create virtual rear heights on a 7.1 setup), it was pretty amazing just the same.

The down side is it doesn't function with Dolby sources and given most immersive soundtracks and thus far all streaming ones are Atmos, this means you'd miss out on a lot of material. Hell, if it weren't for that, I'd be seriously questioning whether it was truly worth all the time and money to do six overheads when its just me watching most of the time (clearly real overheads work well for all three rows).

Its actually pretty incredible how convincing the height effect is from the MLP. It reminds me of what Sony's Qsound did for Roger Waters' Amused To Death album (I still prefer that version to the newer surround mix for various reasons).

By comparison, Marantz/Denon's own virtual mode isn't remotely as good (using only two speakers), but did at least provide some "behind me" effect with the Atmos helicopter demo, although sounding more like the 5.1.4 iteration (half the room length 12x12 square) than my current 9.1.6 setup (full room length 12x24 rectangle)

Click THEATER (Updated: May-22-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 10-13-19)
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post #3206 of 4771 Old 11-22-2018, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by lovehifi14 View Post
SR7012 and Audyssey question. Love the receiver. Actually using it as a pre/pro running a Parasound Halo for my fronts and a Cinepro for my center and rears. Only running 5.1. I just moved from an old AV7005 and I have to say the SR7012 does not disappoint for music or video. Couple of questions and I hope this is the right place to ask. When running Audyssey it lowers my levels to the point I have to crank the volume on the 7012 to 70-75 to get moderate to loud volume. Maybe this okay?
The volume setting on your AV7005 should have been about the same.

After calibration, 80 nominally corresponds to the sound level in a calibrated commercial theater. This is too loud for a home listening environment, so most people turn it down about 10 dB or so. Much lower settings (~40-50) are common when Dynamic Volume is enabled.
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More importantly it calls my Legacy Audio Focus HDs full range (Which they are) and sets crossover at 40hz. Should I leave them at full range or change them to small? Does it matter at a crossover of 40hz? My Focus HD towers range are 18Hz – 30 kHz. Thanks for any help or pointers.
The usual recommendation is to enable bass management, so low frequencies are sent to the subwoofer: set all speakers as small and raise crossovers to 80Hz, but don't lower any that are higher.

If you haven't already, please take the time to look through the Audyssey 101/FAQ. It discusses bass management and crossover frequencies. It also will help you to get a good calibration. The instructions in the equipment's owner's manual are pathetically inadequate.

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Marantz SR7009 avr + MM9000 amp --> Atmos 7.1.4
Fronts=NHT 2.9+AC2, FH+TM=DefTech PM1000, LCR+TM amped
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post #3207 of 4771 Old 11-22-2018, 05:45 PM
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I'd be surprised if the replacement unit didn't do the same. When that happens, it's almost always because some other component was sending it a 'wake up!' CEC command.

My 1608 did that a few times until I realized that my Amazon Fire device was waking up to check for updates, and that it sent an "I'm awake, you should be too" command to the 1608. I figured out the cause because the 1608 shut down with the TiVo input selected, and woke up with the Fire input selected.


CEC: The Devil's Protocol

I don't think anything woke it up via a CEC command, due to the fact that only my Cable Box, TV and Blu-Ray were connected and nothing else was on when t woke me up.


My new unit has arrived and all set up, worked beautifully with no glitches. All devices work beautifully with my new 6012 and the TV audio now comes out of the Marantz, like its suppose to!

happy camper once again...

Oh... and the sound is fantastic... pulled out my old 5th Element Blu-Ray and heard sounds that I haven't heard since I watched it in the theater!
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post #3208 of 4771 Old 11-22-2018, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by evolv View Post
I don't think anything woke it up via a CEC command, due to the fact that only my Cable Box, TV and Blu-Ray were connected and nothing else was on when t woke me up.


My new unit has arrived and all set up, worked beautifully with no glitches. All devices work beautifully with my new 6012 and the TV audio now comes out of the Marantz, like its suppose to!

happy camper once again...

Oh... and the sound is fantastic... pulled out my old 5th Element Blu-Ray and heard sounds that I haven't heard since I watched it in the theater!
Glad to hear you got it solved with a new unit. CEC/ARC issues can be difficult at times.
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post #3209 of 4771 Old 11-23-2018, 07:25 PM
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Marantz NR-1608/NAD C375 BEE Setup Question

Hi All,

I am trying to figure out the best/most efficient way to set up the components in my office, I have a Marantz NR-1608 Receiver with the following sources:

Sony XBR850 55" LED TV
FIOS Cable
AppleTV

And I also have a NAD C375 BEE Integrated Amplifier with the following sources:
SiriusXM Unit
DAC connection from iMac

Right now I want the sources from the Marantz to go through the NAD Amplifier to drive a set of B&W 683 tower speakers since the Marantz receiver is weak, but I am unsure of the best way to do this. It seems I could either run the Marantz in to an Aux input in the NAD amp, or attempt to split the RCA connection between the Marantz/NAD Pre-Outs going to the Main-In in the NAD amplifier, but when I have tried this, the sound seems off.

Does anyone have some insight on the best way to do this without degrading sound? I guess I could always run the Sirius XM unit to the Marantz, but that would still leave me without a solution for the DAC, as I don't believe the Marantz can accept USB in.

Any help is appreciated, thanks!
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post #3210 of 4771 Old 11-24-2018, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Tsurara View Post
Hi All,

I am trying to figure out the best/most efficient way to set up the components in my office, I have a Marantz NR-1608 Receiver with the following sources:

Sony XBR850 55" LED TV
FIOS Cable
AppleTV

And I also have a NAD C375 BEE Integrated Amplifier with the following sources:
SiriusXM Unit
DAC connection from iMac

Right now I want the sources from the Marantz to go through the NAD Amplifier to drive a set of B&W 683 tower speakers since the Marantz receiver is weak, but I am unsure of the best way to do this. It seems I could either run the Marantz in to an Aux input in the NAD amp, or attempt to split the RCA connection between the Marantz/NAD Pre-Outs going to the Main-In in the NAD amplifier, but when I have tried this, the sound seems off.

Does anyone have some insight on the best way to do this without degrading sound? I guess I could always run the Sirius XM unit to the Marantz, but that would still leave me without a solution for the DAC, as I don't believe the Marantz can accept USB in.

Any help is appreciated, thanks!
Simply connect the Front L/R pre-outs on the NR1608 to the NAD, set the NAD volume to 80% of max, run Audyssey on the NR1608.
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