*Official* Marantz 2017 NR1508/1608, SR5012/6012/7012 owner's thread - Page 111 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3301 of 4785 Old 11-30-2018, 06:31 PM
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Odd one, but I hooked up a 1/4" cable to use to trigger my SB16-Ultra today, and as soon as I plug the end into my 7012 it starts a low buzz through both of my mains (Klipsch RP280s for what it's worth).

It's not a super costly cable, a Hosa brand, but I have always had great results with their AV gear.

Ideas? As soon as I unplug it - silence.
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post #3302 of 4785 Old 11-30-2018, 06:41 PM
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Sounds like a ground loop to me. They are a bear to isolate because it has nothing to do with how the music signal flows but rather how each device derives their ground. Hosa are good and switching to an alternate won't help. The problem is some device is establishing a new alternate ground potential [voltage] when you make that connection. I'll try to come up with a solution in a moment.

UPDATE. I'm back. OK idea 1: Kill/sever the outer shield of the hosa trigger wire by unsoldering it at one end so only the inner conduit of electricity works..

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

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post #3303 of 4785 Old 11-30-2018, 06:48 PM
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Looks like I'm not the first to think of this and this guy seems to have been successful with a similar scheme.
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post #3304 of 4785 Old 11-30-2018, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Sounds like a ground loop to me. They are a bear to isolate because it has nothing to do with how the music signal flows but rather how each device derives their ground. Hosa are good and switching to an alternate won't help. The problem is some device is establishing a new alternate ground potential [voltage] when you make that connection. I'll try to come up with a solution in a moment.

UPDATE. I'm back. OK idea 1: Kill/sever the outer shield of the hosa trigger wire by unsoldering it at one end so only the inner conduit of electricity works..
Makes perfect sense, you only need one side of the cable to 'tip' the sub. I will mess with it in the morning.

Thanks!
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post #3305 of 4785 Old 12-01-2018, 03:02 AM
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Hello,

Yesterday I bought on a deal new only opened Marantz SR5012 even with extended warranty. And Im unable to do any network connection. When I go to the menu, it just sayin please wait, waited 20 minutes, nothing happens. Tryied to do network reset, as someone here has pointed earlier in the thread and when "Press and hold the main unit's DIMMER and TUNER PRESET CH - at the same time for at least 3 seconds." when Im on Heos, I got only Connect Wait .... Did a complete reset and when the setup assistant got me to the network part, again stuck on please wait.

Anyone any advice what to do ?
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post #3306 of 4785 Old 12-01-2018, 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Dobromir Dimitrov View Post
Hello,

Yesterday I bought on a deal new only opened Marantz SR5012 even with extended warranty. And Im unable to do any network connection. When I go to the menu, it just sayin please wait, waited 20 minutes, nothing happens. Tryied to do network reset, as someone here has pointed earlier in the thread and when "Press and hold the main unit's DIMMER and TUNER PRESET CH - at the same time for at least 3 seconds." when Im on Heos, I got only Connect Wait .... Did a complete reset and when the setup assistant got me to the network part, again stuck on please wait.

Anyone any advice what to do ?
Try instead doing a microprocessor reset (press/hold M-DAX and ZONE 2 SOURCE buttons while powering on the AVR. Hold the 2 buttons until "INITIALIZED" is displayed on front panel).

If still no joy, return it and either exchange it or get your money back.
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post #3307 of 4785 Old 12-01-2018, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Dobromir Dimitrov View Post
Hello,

Yesterday I bought on a deal new only opened Marantz SR5012 even with extended warranty. And Im unable to do any network connection. When I go to the menu, it just sayin please wait, waited 20 minutes, nothing happens. Tryied to do network reset, as someone here has pointed earlier in the thread and when "Press and hold the main unit's DIMMER and TUNER PRESET CH - at the same time for at least 3 seconds." when Im on Heos, I got only Connect Wait .... Did a complete reset and when the setup assistant got me to the network part, again stuck on please wait.

Anyone any advice what to do ?
This may sound stupid, but did you connect the WiFi antennas on the back? I did notice my 7010 didn't have a good connection (low signal even with the antennas), but my new 7012 picks up great.

Click THEATER (Updated: Oct-19-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 10-13-19)
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post #3308 of 4785 Old 12-01-2018, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Try instead doing a microprocessor reset (press/hold M-DAX and ZONE 2 SOURCE buttons while powering on the AVR. Hold the 2 buttons until "INITIALIZED" is displayed on front panel).


If still no joy, return it and either exchange it or get your money back.

Already tried it three times and nothing. There is no other Marantz to exchange, only Denon's, so it seems it's gonna be a money back, but this is going to be a great pain in the ass, cause Im in the 3rd world ... That's why I really wanted to try everything first.





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This may sound stupid, but did you connect the WiFi antennas on the back? I did notice my 7010 didn't have a good connection (low signal even with the antennas), but my new 7012 picks up great.

Well, the wifi antenas are not detachable on this unit, they only have some holders to lay during transport. Tried even with cable in the ethernet port with no success. Every network application is stuck on please wait, seems to me the entire network module is not working.
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post #3309 of 4785 Old 12-01-2018, 05:29 AM
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This issue would normally present when a loose speaker wire from one post is touching another post, however, with only two active speakers connected, there are no speaker wire connections. If using the Zone 2 Setup - Volume Level - Variable (default) setting, then try raising the volume on the active speakers to at least 80% of maximum.

I have tried this and the result was that when volume of active speakers was at 80 % of maximum receiver goes to standby mode with very quickly after several seconds.
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post #3310 of 4785 Old 12-01-2018, 06:25 AM
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I even tryied to update the firmware from USB, but the update process is unable to start because when I set to Heos Input Ive got Conect Please wait message ..
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post #3311 of 4785 Old 12-01-2018, 10:03 AM
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I have tried this and the result was that when volume of active speakers was at 80 % of maximum receiver goes to standby mode with very quickly after several seconds.
Then set the speakers to a volume level where it doesn't shut the AVR down, otherwise, there could also be a short in the speakers.
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post #3312 of 4785 Old 12-01-2018, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Dobromir Dimitrov View Post
Already tried it three times and nothing. There is no other Marantz to exchange, only Denon's, so it seems it's gonna be a money back, but this is going to be a great pain in the ass, cause Im in the 3rd world ... That's why I really wanted to try everything first.
What's wrong with exchanging for a Denon? Roughly 80% of the internals of the Denon sister model, X2400H, is the same as the SR5012. If you want main zone pre-outs, upgrade to the X3400H which also then uses the much more advanced Audyssey MultEQ XT32 as well as having received the eARC update to allow an eARC capable TV to pass HD audio back to the AVR (ie. whenever services start streaming HD audio).
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post #3313 of 4785 Old 12-01-2018, 02:22 PM
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It's not a problem to get a X3500H, but Im after audio quality in terms of stereo music. I owned a Denon 1912 and wasn't impressed at all, muddy and lack of dynamics. I know Im listening the Marantz for 2 days but I really like the way it sounds, dont think Yamaha or Denon could deliver that sound, so Im gonna chase the Marantz xD
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post #3314 of 4785 Old 12-01-2018, 04:43 PM
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I would like to add a Bluetooth transmitter and headphones to my home theater system which uses the SR5012.

1. The Bluetooth transmitter should be “always on” So that when I engage the headphones I don’t have to do any fiddling on the Marantz unit.

2. The transmitter should output a signal regardless of the input I’m using whether it be television via my TiVo or a Blu-ray disc or streaming video from Roku again without fiddling around too much.

So, with those requirements, is anybody doing this already? If so please tell me about your rig. If not, are you doing something similar?

Very curious how to solve this...
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post #3315 of 4785 Old 12-01-2018, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ivangs View Post
Hello,

I have a problem with NR1608.
After 1 hour work it stops into standby mode as red-light is flashing very frequently.
After restart it works again without problems for the same period for about 1 hour.
The configuration is Tv setup box connected with HDMI to NR1608 and receiver connected to LG C8 Tv with HDMI (ARC).I have two jbl lsr305 active speakers connected to the NR1608 zone2 pre-out.
I use “All zone stereo” mode to get output to Zone 2 pre-out.
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Then set the speakers to a volume level where it doesn't shut the AVR down, otherwise, there could also be a short in the speakers.
The unit may be going into a "thermal runaway" situation caused by incorrect setting of the thermal tracking and biasing circuitry for the output transistors. There is not much one can do about this defect except to exchange it or have it repaired.
In order to confirm the defect, try this experiment. Run the unit normally as before to warm/heat it up. Mute it when it is already hot, maybe after 50 minutes. Do not turn it off or put it in standby. If it shuts down within an hour with flashing red light even when it's muted then it has definitely gone into a "thermal runaway".

If not, then either the setting of its high temperature threshold is too low or that the unit is simply being pushed beyond its capability.

Last edited by Fruit; 12-02-2018 at 01:52 AM.
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post #3316 of 4785 Old 12-02-2018, 03:07 AM
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I would like to add a Bluetooth transmitter and headphones to my home theater system which uses the SR5012.

1. The Bluetooth transmitter should be “always on” So that when I engage the headphones I don’t have to do any fiddling on the Marantz unit.

2. The transmitter should output a signal regardless of the input I’m using whether it be television via my TiVo or a Blu-ray disc or streaming video from Roku again without fiddling around too much.

So, with those requirements, is anybody doing this already? If so please tell me about your rig. If not, are you doing something similar?

Very curious how to solve this...
You only have two choices for connecting the BT transmitter:

(1) Front L/R pre-outs: always hot, but in order to get center channel dialog you would have to select the STEREO surround mode and the surround speakers would still be active

(2) Zone 2 pre-outs: as the SR5012 cannot pass HDMI audio to Zone 2 (rather only possible on the SR6012/SR7012/SR8012) either the source would have to be analog only (ie. connecting RCA cables from the source to the AVR in addition to the HDMI cable) in which case the main zone speakers could be muted, or for HDMI only sources, you would have to select the <ALL ZONE STEREO> surround mode in which case the main zone would be downmixed to stereo as well.
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post #3317 of 4785 Old 12-02-2018, 04:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by nhw3w View Post
I would like to add a Bluetooth transmitter and headphones to my home theater system which uses the SR5012.

1. The Bluetooth transmitter should be “always on” So that when I engage the headphones I don’t have to do any fiddling on the Marantz unit.

2. The transmitter should output a signal regardless of the input I’m using whether it be television via my TiVo or a Blu-ray disc or streaming video from Roku again without fiddling around too much.

So, with those requirements, is anybody doing this already? If so please tell me about your rig. If not, are you doing something similar?

Very curious how to solve this...
You only have two choices for connecting the BT transmitter:

(1) Front L/R pre-outs: always hot, but in order to get center channel dialog you would have to select the STEREO surround mode and the surround speakers would still be active

(2) Zone 2 pre-outs: as the SR5012 cannot pass HDMI audio to Zone 2 (rather only possible on the SR6012/SR7012/SR8012) either the source would have to be analog only (ie. connecting RCA cables from the source to the AVR in addition to the HDMI cable) in which case the main zone speakers could be muted, or for HDMI only sources, you would have to select the <ALL ZONE STEREO> surround mode in which case the main zone would be downmixed to stereo as well.
A couple of things:

1. Can anyone recommend a specific Bluetooth transmitter that they are successfully using with the SR5012 for this purpose (also curious about the headphones being used as well)?

2. If I’m using headphones which are, I think, stereo devices, should I care about “ in order to get center channel dialog you would have to select the STEREO surround mode”?
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post #3318 of 4785 Old 12-02-2018, 04:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhw3w View Post
A couple of things:

1. Can anyone recommend a specific Bluetooth transmitter that they are successfully using with the SR5012 for this purpose (also curious about the headphones being used as well)?

2. If I’m using headphones which are, I think, stereo devices, should I care about [B] in order to get center channel dialog you would have to select the STEREO surround mode?
2. If the AVR is receiving a multi channel audio signal (eg. DD 5.1 from Blu Ray), that would mean the dialog is being sent to the center channel; however, if your BT transmitter is only connected to the FL/FR pre-outs, you wouldn't hear any dialog.
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post #3319 of 4785 Old 12-02-2018, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by nhw3w View Post
A couple of things:

1. Can anyone recommend a specific Bluetooth transmitter that they are successfully using with the SR5012 for this purpose (also curious about the headphones being used as well)?

2. If I’m using headphones which are, I think, stereo devices, should I care about [B] in order to get center channel dialog you would have to select the STEREO surround mode?
2. If the AVR is receiving a multi channel audio signal (eg. DD 5.1 from Blu Ray), that would mean the dialog is being sent to the center channel; however, if your BT transmitter is only connected to the FL/FR pre-outs, you wouldn't hear any dialog.
If he's using the STEREO decoding mode he certainly will get dialog (and everything else) out of those pre-outs. It folds all the channels down to two channels. (surrounds, dialog, everything).

To answer his question, no he shouldn't care while using headphones.

Click THEATER (Updated: Oct-19-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 10-13-19)
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I appreciate the advice and would live to hear specifics from someone who is using a Bluetooth transmitter and headphones with an SR5012
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post #3321 of 4785 Old 12-02-2018, 08:06 PM
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Makes perfect sense, you only need one side of the cable to 'tip' the sub. I will mess with it in the morning.

Thanks!
I ended up just letting the cable sit in the socket on the subwoofer side as opposed to plugged in completely. No reason to ruin the new Hosa 15' cable - I might end up using it elsewhere if I put in an SVS wireless connection.

Works fine - no mo' buzz...
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post #3322 of 4785 Old 12-03-2018, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by MagnumX View Post
If he's using the STEREO decoding mode he certainly will get dialog (and everything else) out of those pre-outs. It folds all the channels down to two channels. (surrounds, dialog, everything).

To answer his question, no he shouldn't care while using headphones.
You missed my point in that unless STEREO surround mode is selected, there would be no dialog.
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post #3323 of 4785 Old 12-03-2018, 08:09 AM
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I appreciate the advice and would live to hear specifics from someone who is using a Bluetooth transmitter and headphones with an SR5012
I tried this out this morning on my SR7012. Here are a few observations.

I hooked up a Bluetooth transmitter to Zone 3 RCA analog outputs, so it should approximate your Zone 2.
When listening to my Tivo set-top box connected via HDMI, I got no sound via Bluetooth unless I first selected Zone 3 and turned on All Zone Stereo in the options menu.
Once that was set up, I was able to hear the Tivo sound just fine.
Using All Zone Stereo does disable surround sound in the Main Zone.
The volume control did work using the Zone 3 volume on the remote.

Let me know if there is anything else you would like me to try.
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post #3324 of 4785 Old 12-03-2018, 10:04 AM
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I tried this out this morning on my SR7012. Here are a few observations.

I hooked up a Bluetooth transmitter to Zone 3 RCA analog outputs, so it should approximate your Zone 2.
When listening to my Tivo set-top box connected via HDMI, I got no sound via Bluetooth unless I first selected Zone 3 and turned on All Zone Stereo in the options menu.
Once that was set up, I was able to hear the Tivo sound just fine.
Using All Zone Stereo does disable surround sound in the Main Zone.
The volume control did work using the Zone 3 volume on the remote.

Let me know if there is anything else you would like me to try.
Unlike Zone 2 which can pass HDMI 2.0 PCM audio, Zone 3 cannot.
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Unlike Zone 2 which can pass HDMI 2.0 PCM audio, Zone 3 cannot.
Correct, that's why I chose to use Zone 3, to emulate Zone 2 on the SR5012 for this test.
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post #3326 of 4785 Old 12-03-2018, 10:14 AM
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Correct, that's why I chose to use Zone 3, to emulate Zone 2 on the SR5012 for this test.
As long as the source is 2CH stereo and not HDMI/Digital, it will pass to the Zone 3 pre-outs.
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post #3327 of 4785 Old 12-03-2018, 10:57 AM
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Sounds like a ground loop to me. They are a bear to isolate because it has nothing to do with how the music signal flows but rather how each device derives their ground. Hosa are good and switching to an alternate won't help. The problem is some device is establishing a new alternate ground potential [voltage] when you make that connection. I'll try to come up with a solution in a moment.

UPDATE. I'm back. OK idea 1: Kill/sever the outer shield of the hosa trigger wire by unsoldering it at one end so only the inner conduit of electricity works..

I did a brief review of the handling of grounds by various Denon/Marantz/Yamaha AVR's and AVP's for the trigger circuits, because of this series of posts. I found the only consistency is inconsistency, even within brands. Some units keep the trigger circuits separate (this seems a good idea), some combine the grounds with the relay grounds (which are likely dirty), and some combine the trigger ground with the digital ground. No doubt examining more units would should show more variation.

Because of this variation between units, the problem experienced with the exact set of equipment in the posts here, might or might not happen with other combinations. This information may not be particularly helpful in solving specific problems, but it can help to explain the cause of seemingly random problems, and help to allay the feeling that one is going crazy when encountering problems such as this.
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post #3328 of 4785 Old 12-03-2018, 11:15 AM
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I think that particular sub has its own ground wire (3-wire connection). AVRs typically only use the polarized [neutral] ground return (2-wire AC connector), which is grounded in the breaker box only. These are often not at the same exact ground potential (3rd prong is typically directly connected to a rod driven into the actual ground outside your home), creating the possibility for ground loop problems even on the same receptacle when connected to another unlike component (which is then at a slightly different ground potential). I'd prefer if all AV equipment used the 3-prong connection. You could still have an issue with another outlet on another breaker, but the potential for ground hum would be at least reduced.

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post #3329 of 4785 Old 12-03-2018, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ratledge View Post
I ended up just letting the cable sit in the socket on the subwoofer side as opposed to plugged in completely. No reason to ruin the new Hosa 15' cable - I might end up using it elsewhere if I put in an SVS wireless connection.

Works fine - no mo' buzz...
Hurray! I'm glad that using a slight variation of my suggestion solved your problem.
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post #3330 of 4785 Old 12-03-2018, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MagnumX View Post
I think that particular sub has its own ground wire (3-wire connection). AVRs typically only use the polarized [neutral] ground return (2-wire AC connector), which is grounded in the breaker box only. These are often not at the same exact ground potential (3rd prong is typically directly connected to a rod driven into the actual ground outside your home), creating the possibility for ground loop problems even on the same receptacle when connected to another unlike component (which is then at a slightly different ground potential). I'd prefer if all AV equipment used the 3-prong connection. You could still have an issue with another outlet on another breaker, but the potential for ground hum would be at least reduced.

While the neutral is bonded to the 3rd wire ground system, and the ground rod at the service entrance, the neutral is NOT a ground, and should not be treated as such. AVR's and AVP's (double-insulated) that use only a hot and neutral, do not treat the neutral as ground. The only connections to either of the power wires in these units is via low value capacitors. The case is also of course not connected to either of these wires in a double-insulated unit. As verification, if technical (balanced) power, in which both power wires are hot (+/- 60 V), is fed to an AVR that has a two wire power connector, the AVR will function normally and safely, as will any other equipment fed by technical power.

The ground rod system at the service entrance to a house is to provide some protection for the house from surges on the power lines from outside of the house, such as those caused by lightening strikes. The 3rd wire ground system inside the house is part of a system to protect humans injury or death from electrical power. This 3rd wire ground safety system inside the house will function effectively with or without the ground rod system.
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