*Official* Marantz 2017 NR1508/1608, SR5012/6012/7012 owner's thread - Page 127 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3781 of 4531 Old 02-18-2019, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
True, however, I've got the Custom Mode spreadsheet so you could have received your response yesterday had you been more direct with your request.

Can't get more direct than this:


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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
Anyone have the Service Manual for the SR7012 yet?

It only required a yes or no answer (which you never provided).


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post #3782 of 4531 Old 02-19-2019, 03:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
Can't get more direct than this:





It only required a yes or no answer (which you never provided).

No, I don't have the service manual and am moving on. Good luck.
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post #3783 of 4531 Old 02-19-2019, 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ffactoryxx View Post
As a reminder I am using NR1608 in 3.1 and in addition to my Heos question I tried out Netflix and put on Solo. Dialogue was super low using the Auto Detected DD+

I put on Neural X over whatever the AVR Auto detected and it was better

Do you think my MartinLogan X3 could be underpowered by this unit?

I would find it hard to believe because I watched some demos like Pacific Rim on YouTube and it was loud around 60 to 70.

I put on solo on Netflix and had to crank it to 80+

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Not unless you are having to raise the volume above 80 and also hear distortion, no. Rather simply different sources have different input volume levels which is why the <SOURCE LEVEL> setting exists for those that prefer to have each source to have the same volume at a given master volume level.
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post #3784 of 4531 Old 02-19-2019, 05:38 AM
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Hi There,


How to get Zone 2 display show current source selected for zone2.



I am using Sr6012 receiver and trying to setup zone2 for outdoor setup. In the main zone i have 5.1 speaker config with Bi-amp mode. Zone two speakers are connected to Height2 L/R. I can play different source audio to Zone2. Trying to get the display working for it.



TV port 1 HDMI is connect to monitor 1 on AVR, TV HDMI port 2 connected to zone 2 HDMI port on AVR. If I select USB as source for zone 2. How to get this on the display for zone 2 so could see the USB menu to select tracks.



If main zone source is USB, it shows the menu on monitor1 so one could select the tracks. Is it possible to display equivalent menu on zone2 display, when zone2 source is USB. I tried connecting TV hdmi port 2 to monitor 2 on AVR also. But it seems monitor 1 and monitor 2 display are both used for main zone.



It looks like i my configuration is not right, Can some one please explain how to enable zone2 display.


Thanks

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post #3785 of 4531 Old 02-19-2019, 05:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tama1 View Post
Hi There,


How to get Zone 2 display show current source selected for zone2.



I am using Sr6012 receiver and trying to setup zone2 for outdoor setup. In the main zone i have 5.1 speaker config with Bi-amp mode. Zone two speakers are connected to Height2 L/R. I can play different source audio to Zone2. Trying to get the display working for it.



TV port 1 HDMI is connect to monitor 1 on AVR, TV HDMI port 2 connected to zone 2 HDMI port on AVR. If I select USB as source for zone 2. How to get this on the display for zone 2 so could see the USB menu to select tracks.



If main zone source is USB, it shows the menu on monitor1 so one could select the tracks. Is it possible to display equivalent menu on zone2 display, when zone2 source is USB. I tried connecting TV hdmi port 2 to monitor 2 on AVR also. But it seems monitor 1 and monitor 2 display are both used for main zone.



It looks like i my configuration is not right, Can some one please explain how to enable zone2 display.


Thanks
1. No. There is no Zone 2 display. You can however, use the 2016 Marantz AVR Remote app to display the information.
2. Correct. Monitor 1 and Monitor 2 outputs are for main zone only.
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post #3786 of 4531 Old 02-19-2019, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
No, I don't have the service manual and am moving on. Good luck.
Now, that wasn't so hard, was it? Thanks to another member (and only one PM), I have what I requested, and didn't have my time wasted with childish games.

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post #3787 of 4531 Old 02-19-2019, 05:40 PM
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Hey all. A couple weeks ago I bought a NAD T758 v3. I got it hooked up last week and while setting it up discovered it's got some problem with atmos (5-10 minutes into a movie it starts dropping audio at random). Tried multiple cables, sources, etc... No luck. Waiting to hear back from NAD atm, but I'm guessing I'll probably have to return it.

Anyway... What's relavent here is that, knowing what's probably coming, I jumped on one of the 7012 closeout deals yesterday. I'm pretty familiar with the setup and operation of the NAD at this point, so I'm going to try the 7012 out while the 758 is in transit. If I like the 7012 better, I'll just get the refund on my nad. Otherwise I bought the 7012 from world wide stereo and have the 45 day no questions asked return, if I decide to try my luck with a replacement 758. (Yay...)

The 7012 has a lot more features than I probably need, but lacks Dirac, but I mostly watch movies and I've read that Audessey might have the edge there. So... Should be interesting to see (if I get the same atmos dropouts with the marantz, then I don't know what I'm going to do! )

So, while I was waiting for it to arrive I had a quick question about the preouts and speaker setup. I'm currently running a 5.1.2 setup to an emotiva LPA-1 external Amp. I'm toying with the idea of expanding that 5.1.4. If I do so, I would just let the 7012 handle the side surrounds and atmos speakers. Doing so would free up 3x125W channels for use on the lpa. What I'm curious about doing is using two of those to biamp my front mains. Is it possible to do so using the preouts on the 7012, or can it only be done by using the on board assignable amplification?

Thanks!

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post #3788 of 4531 Old 02-19-2019, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueWRXPride View Post
Yes, I will see what ECO mode does next time I'm down there for a movie. I appreciate the enthusiasm of everyone to help me out though!
Turns out ECO mode makes a huge difference. Temperatures dropped about 20 degrees compared to having it set to auto. Looks like I'll be keeping it on as I wasn't able to hear any difference.
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post #3789 of 4531 Old 02-19-2019, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by HarBlar View Post
Hey all. A couple weeks ago I bought a NAD T758 v3. I got it hooked up last week and while setting it up discovered it's got some problem with atmos (5-10 minutes into a movie it starts dropping audio at random). Tried multiple cables, sources, etc... No luck. Waiting to hear back from NAD atm, but I'm guessing I'll probably have to return it.

Anyway... What's relavent here is that, knowing what's probably coming, I jumped on one of the 7012 closeout deals yesterday. I'm pretty familiar with the setup and operation of the NAD at this point, so I'm going to try the 7012 out while the 758 is in transit. If I like the 7012 better, I'll just get the refund on my nad. Otherwise I bought the 7012 from world wide stereo and have the 45 day no questions asked return, if I decide to try my luck with a replacement 758. (Yay...)

The 7012 has a lot more features than I probably need, but lacks Dirac, but I mostly watch movies and I've read that Audessey might have the edge there. So... Should be interesting to see (if I get the same atmos dropouts with the marantz, then I don't know what I'm going to do! )

So, while I was waiting for it to arrive I had a quick question about the preouts and speaker setup. I'm currently running a 5.1.2 setup to an emotiva LPA-1 external Amp. I'm toying with the idea of expanding that 5.1.4. If I do so, I would just let the 7012 handle the side surrounds and atmos speakers. Doing so would free up 3x125W channels for use on the lpa. What I'm curious about doing is using two of those to biamp my front mains. Is it possible to do so using the preouts on the 7012, or can it only be done by using the on board assignable amplification?

Thanks!
Yes, you can connect "Y" splitter cables to the FL/FR pre-outs of the SR7012 and connect them to 4 of the amps on the LPA-1. However, without using external crossover switches as well, may not provide any additional benefit.
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post #3790 of 4531 Old 02-19-2019, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Yes, you can connect "Y" splitter cables to the FL/FR pre-outs of the SR7012 and connect them to 4 of the amps on the LPA-1. However, without using external crossover switches as well, may not provide any additional benefit.
Isn't that what would be considered bi-wiring?

When you bi-amp on the 7012 using the internal amp, you use the main L/R for the Lows and an assignable set of speaker connections for the highs, with the 7012 acting as an active crossover, if I understand that correctly, anyway. I was just wondering if extra preouts could be assigned to perform the same crossover function?

I'm currently running Infinity Beta 50's as my mains an honestly don't know if it would be worth it or not. I am, however, looking at building a full front channel set of diysoundgroup elusive 1099'sat some point. I'm not sure if they could be run this way or not, but imagine if they could they'd probably be able to really take advantage of it.

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post #3791 of 4531 Old 02-19-2019, 11:28 PM
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Since the SR7012 actually processes 11 channels, you could always Bi-amp the fronts with the SR7012, and run the remaining 7 channels to the Emotiva.

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post #3792 of 4531 Old 02-20-2019, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by HarBlar View Post
Isn't that what would be considered bi-wiring?

When you bi-amp on the 7012 using the internal amp, you use the main L/R for the Lows and an assignable set of speaker connections for the highs, with the 7012 acting as an active crossover, if I understand that correctly, anyway. I was just wondering if extra preouts could be assigned to perform the same crossover function?

I'm currently running Infinity Beta 50's as my mains an honestly don't know if it would be worth it or not. I am, however, looking at building a full front channel set of diysoundgroup elusive 1099'sat some point. I'm not sure if they could be run this way or not, but imagine if they could they'd probably be able to really take advantage of it.
1. Nope. Bi-wiring is connecting a second set of speaker wires from the same amp.

2. Not true. Using the AVR's "Bi-amp" setting definitely won't provide any benefit as the AVR simply passes the same exact signal to both sets of speaker posts drawing on the same single power supply.
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post #3793 of 4531 Old 02-20-2019, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
1. Nope. Bi-wiring is connecting a second set of speaker wires from the same amp.

2. Not true. Using the AVR's "Bi-amp" setting definitely won't provide any benefit as the AVR simply passes the same exact signal to both sets of speaker posts drawing on the same single power supply.
Ah! So basically just a marketing gimmick, more less? Sure it'd get me more power to the highs and lows on each speaker, but without the active crossover it seems like a good way to blow tweeters and add more distortion to the mix. (Well, I mean, it probably still passes through the speakers passive crossover, but with no way to dial it back for the high-end).

Thanks for clarifying. I know a lot of people get confused by this (myself included!)

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post #3794 of 4531 Old 02-20-2019, 08:52 AM
 
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Both bi-wiring and bi-amplifying (passively, i.e. no electronic crossover used) should both be avoided due to the time, expense, and lack of audible benefits.

Active bi-amping on the other hand has some benefits and added control, in fact the methodology where we separate the low bass from the signal being amplified and sent to the main speakers and instead send it to the more powerful sub amp with its more suitable, larger woofer via an electronic crossover [called "bass management"] is a very popular and useful type of active bi-amping most of us use.

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post #3795 of 4531 Old 02-20-2019, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by HarBlar View Post
Ah! So basically just a marketing gimmick, more less? Sure it'd get me more power to the highs and lows on each speaker, but without the active crossover it seems like a good way to blow tweeters and add more distortion to the mix. (Well, I mean, it probably still passes through the speakers passive crossover, but with no way to dial it back for the high-end).

Thanks for clarifying. I know a lot of people get confused by this (myself included!)
Yup.
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post #3796 of 4531 Old 02-20-2019, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarBlar View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
1. Nope. Bi-wiring is connecting a second set of speaker wires from the same amp.

2. Not true. Using the AVR's "Bi-amp" setting definitely won't provide any benefit as the AVR simply passes the same exact signal to both sets of speaker posts drawing on the same single power supply.
Ah! So basically just a marketing gimmick, more less? Sure it'd get me more power to the highs and lows on each speaker, but without the active crossover it seems like a good way to blow tweeters and add more distortion to the mix. (Well, I mean, it probably still passes through the speakers passive crossover, but with no way to dial it back for the high-end).
Some amps have level controls on them. My Carvers are active bi-amped, but there was a time when they were still passive, but I was having a problem with one song "snapping" my ribbons (you could see the ripple damage on the ribbon).

Carver sent a rep to find out what was happening (only one speaker had the problem and swapping amp channels didn't move it to the other speaker and I kid you not they replaced the woofer, ribbon and crossover and it still did it.

I went out and bought a used Yamaha class A/AB amp and it had input level knobs and bi-amped them with the passive crossover and the problem went away. I later bought a custom active crossover designed by a Carver engineer for their ribbons and removed the passive crossovers.

I'm still using them to this day 20+ years later (had to tighten the ribbons a couple of times, but that's it other than removing the oxidizing foam cover (I painted the ribbon frame black, which looks better and doesn't block the audio).

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post #3797 of 4531 Old 02-20-2019, 12:24 PM
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I just recently added surround and Atmos heights to my SR7012 for a 7.4.2 system. I’ve got a brand new Parasound A23+ running L/R. Immediately after install (perhaps a coincidence), I’m getting a weird video drop out issue with my PS4 Pro. The screen goes black, audio drops out, and the Marantz panel where it shows the active speakers goes dark and then comes back once the video returns. It looks like an HDMI handshake issue, but I never had this problem before the speaker install. No idea why they would be related. Haven’t had any issues on any other video sources. All video sources are running through the Marantz and then one cable out to my LG OLED. The HDMI cables are either what Sony provided or high speed Monoprice cables.

Any thoughts? It’s super frustrating.
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The issue is PS4 related. Try connecting to an HDMI input closer to the HDMI outputs on the AVR.
JD - thanks for the quick reply.

FWIW - moving from HDMI4 (Game) to HDMI 7 (CD) - the closest input to the outputs - did not work. However, on a whim, I turned off HDCP in the settings, and in limited testing, that did the trick. Not sure what effect it will have, if any, on anything else I do with the PS4 Pro, but I'm really only focused on the games.
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post #3798 of 4531 Old 02-20-2019, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by theph0xx View Post
JD - thanks for the quick reply.

FWIW - moving from HDMI4 (Game) to HDMI 7 (CD) - the closest input to the outputs - did not work. However, on a whim, I turned off HDCP in the settings, and in limited testing, that did the trick. Not sure what effect it will have, if any, on anything else I do with the PS4 Pro, but I'm really only focused on the games.
Most likely HDMI-CEC was disabled.
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post #3799 of 4531 Old 02-20-2019, 11:56 PM
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1. No. There is no Zone 2 display. You can however, use the 2016 Marantz AVR Remote app to display the information.
2. Correct. Monitor 1 and Monitor 2 outputs are for main zone only.



Thanks Jdsmoothie for confirming this. I will try the remote app, have heard a lot of bad review about it hence didnt try so far.



It seems that if you switch from USB => Bluetooth => USB the receiver doesnt play from the USB memory. It just keep on saying cannot play. Even though the USB memory playlist still exists. You need to select a track and then play it. From that point onwards it resumes the playlist.



Has anyone faced a similar issue?

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post #3800 of 4531 Old 02-21-2019, 12:04 AM
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Thanks Jdsmoothie for confirming this. I will try the remote app, have heard a lot of bad review about it hence didnt try so far.

It seems that if you switch from USB => Bluetooth => USB the receiver doesnt play from the USB memory. It just keep on saying cannot play. Even though the USB memory playlist still exists. You need to select a track and then play it. From that point onwards it resumes the playlist.

Has anyone faced a similar issue?
AFAIK, this is normal and to be expected.
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post #3801 of 4531 Old 02-21-2019, 04:37 AM
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I have been using the remote app on an iPad and it has worked flawlessly.

Spoiler!
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post #3802 of 4531 Old 02-21-2019, 05:21 PM
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I have been using the remote app on an iPad and it has worked flawlessly.



Thanks for your feedback.

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post #3803 of 4531 Old 02-21-2019, 08:55 PM
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Based on the Facebook Live with Marantz America, there are no plans to bring IMAX Enhanced to the 2017 or older models (excluding the SR8012).

-Ryan
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post #3804 of 4531 Old 02-22-2019, 05:57 PM
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I went from a SR7009 to a SR7012 and I noticed there is more white noise coming from all the speaker's tweeters compared to the SR7009. Has anyone noticed the white noise/Hissing coming from speakers tweeter? I know you should some white noise but what's normal?

Equipment List: Benq W6000, Darbee DVP-5000S Video Processor, JKP Affinity 100 inch 16x9 .9 gain reference screen, Marantz SR7013 Receiver, 3-Marantz Ma700 and 2-Ma6100 monoblocks, 7.4.2 Atmos, B&W Nautilus 805 front speakers, B&W Nautilus HTM2 center speaker, Volt 6 Atmos Speakers, Mirage HDT-R side speakers, Jamo THX surround one rear speakers, 2 PSA S3600I'S, and 2 UM18-22/iNUKE6000DSP DIY subs.

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post #3805 of 4531 Old 02-22-2019, 07:27 PM
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Mike, my SR6012 is dead silent, Zero white noise even with an ear up to any speaker.
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Spoiler!
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post #3806 of 4531 Old 02-23-2019, 01:30 PM
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Hello everyone I have a few questions on some things I am looking to do.

First, I am running a Marantz 6012 in my theater and until I get an amp I am using an old stereo to power atmos speakers. In deciding where to set the volume on that old receiver, i'm thinking that I need to break out my old spl meter and use that, if I can remember how to use it. The questions is: where do I get the test tones, or pink noise, to set the volume? Somewhere, I think I have that cd that HSU sends with their subs, I can't remember if it had tones on it though. And there is a chance that I have one of those old THX dvd movies with the THX optimizer on it. Would those work? Or is there another place I should look?

Question 2, the place for me to sit this reciever is about 9 feet away from the Marantz, is there a max length on interconnects before I have to worry about signal issues.


Lastly, I have a qestion about heos. Like I said, I have a 6012 in my theater and I have a Marantz 1608 in my living room. Throughout the house, I am using 4 echo dots with alexa. So I am wondering if I can listen to my audible books through HEOS. I tried to bluetooth connect my echo dot living room to the 1608 but the couldn't see each other, even though the echo is sitting on the reciever.

As always, thanks for the help.

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post #3807 of 4531 Old 02-23-2019, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by boxker View Post
Hello everyone I have a few questions on some things I am looking to do.

First, I am running a Marantz 6012 in my theater and until I get an amp I am using an old stereo to power atmos speakers. In deciding where to set the volume on that old receiver, i'm thinking that I need to break out my old spl meter and use that, if I can remember how to use it. The questions is: where do I get the test tones, or pink noise, to set the volume? Somewhere, I think I have that cd that HSU sends with their subs, I can't remember if it had tones on it though. And there is a chance that I have one of those old THX dvd movies with the THX optimizer on it. Would those work? Or is there another place I should look?

Question 2, the place for me to sit this reciever is about 9 feet away from the Marantz, is there a max length on interconnects before I have to worry about signal issues.


Lastly, I have a qestion about heos. Like I said, I have a 6012 in my theater and I have a Marantz 1608 in my living room. Throughout the house, I am using 4 echo dots with alexa. So I am wondering if I can listen to my audible books through HEOS. I tried to bluetooth connect my echo dot living room to the 1608 but the couldn't see each other, even though the echo is sitting on the reciever.

As always, thanks for the help.
1. Simply set the old stereo to about 80% of maximum volume and run Audyssey on the SR6012. Easy peasy.
2. Shouldn't be a problem.
3. Bluetooth connection ---> https://denon.custhelp.com/app/answe...-via-bluetooth
Using Alex Home Entertainment skill ---> https://denon.custhelp.com/app/answe...9Cc2VnJTIxJTIx
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post #3808 of 4531 Old 02-23-2019, 04:06 PM
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Has anyone encountered quirky remote control issues when linking the SR7012 and an LG C8 OLED via HDMI-CEC? When I hit the BACK button on the LG remote, it changes the input on the Marantz (for me from CABL/SAT to MEDIA PLYR). Other random button pushes on the LG seem to affect the 7012 as well. I just can't seem to get everything to work properly with any remote in the Simplink mode of the LG. My old Panny plasma played nicely with the Marantz till it died...

HT: Oppo 205, Oppo 93 (all region), DirecTV > Marantz SR7012/SimAudio MOON 340i (FL/FR) > B&W CM10S2, B&W Centre 2 S2, B&W 683 (surround), B&W ASW 610 sub; LG C8 OLED 55" monitor
2CH: Oppo 205, Rega RP3/Hana EH> Rega PSU-2 > SimAudio MOON Neo 310LP > SimAudio MOON 340i > B&W CM10S2
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post #3809 of 4531 Old 02-23-2019, 07:04 PM
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Has anyone encountered quirky remote control issues when linking the SR7012 and an LG C8 OLED via HDMI-CEC? When I hit the BACK button on the LG remote, it changes the input on the Marantz (for me from CABL/SAT to MEDIA PLYR). Other random button pushes on the LG seem to affect the 7012 as well. I just can't seem to get everything to work properly with any remote in the Simplink mode of the LG. My old Panny plasma played nicely with the Marantz till it died...
I have a different Marantz receiver and a Sony TV connected via HDMI-CEC, but AFAIK CEC only links the power and volume controls of your TV to also control the AVR. CEC doesn't change what your TV power and volume remote buttons do (to the TV) and it shouldn't do anything to the other buttons on your LG remote.

Is the LG remote a "universal" remote that can be configured to also control other devices? If so, go back to the LG remote configuration settings and see if there's something there that you can change. It looks like the LG cursor remote can be configured to control other devices: https://www.lg.com/us/support/produc...-motion-remote

Sony XBR-65A1E OLED | Yamaha RX-S602 | B&W M1/PV1 | Sony UBP-X700 | Amazon Fire TV
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post #3810 of 4531 Old 02-23-2019, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mikey94025 View Post
I have a different Marantz receiver and a Sony TV connected via HDMI-CEC, but AFAIK CEC only links the power and volume controls of your TV to also control the AVR. CEC doesn't change what your TV power and volume remote buttons do (to the TV) and it shouldn't do anything to the other buttons on your LG remote.
CEC is a public domain protocol, and pretty much every single manufacturer has 'customized' its features on their own stuff, making it a very difficult protocol to use consistently and reliably.

Manufacturers have dropped or modified features and commands, and added others which they won't document designed to work when the interconnected gear is all from them. It is unpredictable and crude, especially when it comes to things like switching AVR inputs around.

On my bedroom setup (Sony 900E, Marantz 1608, Amazon Fire), it took a while to work out how to get the TV turning on-off to turn on-off the Marantz (works about 80% of the time), and how to get the Marantz to switch to the Fire input when I hit the Home button on the Fire's remote (works about 90% of the time). Having the Marantz switch to the ARC mode when I fire up one of the 900's internal apps has generally been hit and miss.

In my main setup, I just gave up and use a programmable remote and a smart power strip to control power and routing. The CEC implementation between the LG OLED, Denon AVR, Fire TV, and Samsung UHD DVD was just totally random and unusable.

There are literally thousands of post all over AVSFORUM complaining about CEC.

I'd like to see a universal CEC 2.0 protocol, perhaps designed and implemented by the no nonsense HDMI consortium (or someone else - I don't care), with well defined commands, and the statement that this is the protocol, implement it or don't, but you can't change, or extend, or add, or fail to implement any of the commands. It is the only way to bring some sanity to the craziness.

Last edited by DougDingle; 02-23-2019 at 08:30 PM.
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