*Official* Marantz 2017 NR1508/1608, SR5012/6012/7012 owner's thread - Page 148 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4411 of 4557 Old 06-11-2019, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by JayNTee View Post
I am using PURE DIRECT but I don't necessarily need to. Is this the only sound mode that automatically switches to match the audio signal coming from the source? i.e. 2.0 5.1, 5.2.1, Atmos, DTS:X, Dolby Digital, etc.

Just found the answer to this. Is there a benefit between Pure Direct and Auto Direct?
Yes indeed. DIRECT and PURE DIRECT both disable Audyssey and bass management (which is why neither is recommended if you prefer using Audyssey) while AUTO selects the mode based on the signal received.

Personally, I don't use any of them, rather simply selecting the MOVIE button on the remote and then selecting the surround mode I want to use which is then remembered the next time that same source audio is received.
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post #4412 of 4557 Old 06-11-2019, 04:11 PM
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So, jdsmoothie,
"Auto" will use Audyssey and bass management?
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post #4413 of 4557 Old 06-11-2019, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by vince48 View Post
So, jdsmoothie,
"Auto" will use Audyssey and bass management?
Correct.
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post #4414 of 4557 Old 06-12-2019, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Correct.
Thank you
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post #4415 of 4557 Old 06-12-2019, 12:43 PM
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JD I just got a 7012 and when I turn it on it comes on on dvd for the input. How do you make it come on to last source?I have it hooked up to a new lg b8 tv and the tv remote has taken over to where it cuts off and on the Marantz, cant seem to find out how to disable that in the tv menu.I just replaced a 7008 with the 7012 so I should know this but its driving me crazy.

Thanks.
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post #4416 of 4557 Old 06-12-2019, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Banks1 View Post
JD I just got a 7012 and when I turn it on it comes on on dvd for the input. How do you make it come on to last source?I have it hooked up to a new lg b8 tv and the tv remote has taken over to where it cuts off and on the Marantz, cant seem to find out how to disable that in the tv menu.I just replaced a 7008 with the 7012 so I should know this but its driving me crazy.

Thanks.
You probably have to disable CEC to keep it from switching to an active source. I have mine turned off and it goes the last source used.

Click THEATER (Updated: May-22-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 7-5-19)
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post #4417 of 4557 Old 06-12-2019, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MagnumX View Post
You probably have to disable CEC to keep it from switching to an active source. I have mine turned off and it goes the last source used.
Thanks do you turn it off in settings ? I have my wifes firestick hooked up on the dvd input.
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post #4418 of 4557 Old 06-12-2019, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Banks1 View Post
Thanks do you turn it off in settings ? I have my wifes firestick hooked up on the dvd input.
It's under HDMI control settings.

I had other problems like the Nvidia Shield suddenly stop playing which seemed to be an errant CEC code happening (for unknown reasons). The AppleTV 4K would turn off my entire system if it went to sleep (I could turn that off at the source, though; the AVR itself seemed to stop the NVidia Shield playing randomly). It just gave me less issues with it off. I had to push a couple of more buttons to turn the system on, but so what, I figure.

Click THEATER (Updated: May-22-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 7-5-19)
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post #4419 of 4557 Old 06-12-2019, 01:52 PM
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I will try that ,thank you very much. That got it

Last edited by Banks1; 06-12-2019 at 02:01 PM.
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post #4420 of 4557 Old 06-14-2019, 03:12 PM
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So I recently connected a turntable to my SR6012 and it sounds good. Would there be any sonic advantage to using an outboard phono preamp like the Schitt Mani or similar? I use a Sumiko Olympia MM cartridge.

Spoiler!
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post #4421 of 4557 Old 06-14-2019, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by RickD1225 View Post
So I recently connected a turntable to my SR6012 and it sounds good. Would there be any sonic advantage to using an outboard phono preamp like the Schitt Mani or similar? I use a Sumiko Olympia MM cartridge.
I'd suggest comparing a $4,500 one to a ~$100 one using your ears, not others: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/173-2...challenge.html
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post #4422 of 4557 Old 06-14-2019, 08:02 PM
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m.zillch, thanks for the link, interesting.
m. zillch likes this.

Spoiler!
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post #4423 of 4557 Old 06-15-2019, 05:37 AM
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@PGC 55

I've had great success using Onkyo M-5010 stereo power amps to drive my fronts. Got two now chained together simultaneously driving front in-walls and a pair of floorstanders I wasn't really using. I plan on adding a third for twinned up centres later. Using external power amps to drive the front three really takes the strain off my 7010's power supply enabling the 8 surround channels in my 7.2.4 setup to really sing out. That's why people are suggesting big budget Emotiva 3-channel and similar.

If your budget is tight, however, buy a modest power amp and use it to drive the back pair of Atmos overheads.

I bought an OSD Audio XMP100 power amp recently for "muzak" service around the home and it was disappointingly quiet. I was planning on using it to drive two pairs of speakers but it could barely drive one! I then bought a pair of Monoprice Unity100 half-width power amps and they're working fine. Those are $130 in the US before tax so figure £200 including VAT in the UK.
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post #4424 of 4557 Old 06-15-2019, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Darren Heal View Post
@PGC 55

I've had great success using Onkyo M-5010 stereo power amps to drive my fronts. Got two now chained together simultaneously driving front in-walls and a pair of floorstanders I wasn't really using. I plan on adding a third for twinned up centres later. Using external power amps to drive the front three really takes the strain off my 7010's power supply enabling the 8 surround channels in my 7.2.4 setup to really sing out. That's why people are suggesting big budget Emotiva 3-channel and similar.

If your budget is tight, however, buy a modest power amp and use it to drive the back pair of Atmos overheads.

I bought an OSD Audio XMP100 power amp recently for "muzak" service around the home and it was disappointingly quiet. I was planning on using it to drive two pairs of speakers but it could barely drive one! I then bought a pair of Monoprice Unity100 half-width power amps and they're working fine. Those are $130 in the US before tax so figure £200 including VAT in the UK.
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post #4425 of 4557 Old 06-15-2019, 07:03 PM
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First off, I couldn't find a dedicated 7013 thread, so I thought I'd try here.

My new SR7013 is working great, but I am running into an issue with the setup -> video -> on screen display -> now playing -> auto off setting.

The AVR continuously displays the now playing screen when streaming Tidal via the Heos input (from remote).

This is a huge deal, but I would really prefer the black screen after 30 seconds. Have any of you ran into this?

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post #4426 of 4557 Old 06-15-2019, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bretcoe View Post
First off, I couldn't find a dedicated 7013 thread, so I thought I'd try here.

My new SR7013 is working great, but I am running into an issue with the setup -> video -> on screen display -> now playing -> auto off setting.

The AVR continuously displays the now playing screen when streaming Tidal via the Heos input (from remote).

This is a huge deal, but I would really prefer the black screen after 30 seconds. Have any of you ran into this?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
The SR7013 is a 2018 model therefore is discussed in the 2018 Marantz thread …

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...sts-1-7-a.html
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post #4427 of 4557 Old 06-17-2019, 10:30 PM
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I have a Marantz sr5012. Since updating the last two firmwares I get a stutter when using air playing from either iPhone or iPad or Mac when manually hitting next and going to the next song from iTunes. If I let the song finish there is no stutter before the next song. Very irritating to say the least. Contacted Marantz last year and there response was no one else reported this problem so we are not looking into it. Load of crap if you ask me. Anyway neither here nor there. Anyone else see this problem when using iTunes,airplay,and Marantz receiver. If I roll back the firmware to August 2018 the problem goes away.
Thanks for any insight or help.
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post #4428 of 4557 Old 06-17-2019, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by spers25 View Post
I have a Marantz sr5012. Since updating the last two firmwares I get a stutter when using air playing from either iPhone or iPad or Mac when manually hitting next and going to the next song from iTunes. If I let the song finish there is no stutter before the next song. Very irritating to say the least. Contacted Marantz last year and there response was no one else reported this problem so we are not looking into it. Load of crap if you ask me. Anyway neither here nor there. Anyone else see this problem when using iTunes,airplay,and Marantz receiver. If I roll back the firmware to August 2018 the problem goes away.
Thanks for any insight or help.
How do you roll back FW and save your existing if you want to go back to it?

bob
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post #4429 of 4557 Old 06-17-2019, 11:23 PM
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How do you roll back FW and save your existing if you want to go back to it?

bob
You would need to have each firmware update loaded to a separate USB thumb drive.
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post #4430 of 4557 Old 06-18-2019, 06:36 AM
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You have to get the firmware from Marantz and put it on a usb drive. Actually I had to roll the firmware back to June 2018 for airplay and iTunes to work correctly. If I recall I had to register with Marantz and give the serial number of receiver to download the firmware. Anyone know of a better fix as I would like to run the current firmware. The last few firmware versions have 3 files and the June 2018 firmware only has two files. The newer firmware has a added file named Firminfo.xml and wondering if that xml file is the problem. You can read the xml file but I do not understand what it all means. Any help appreciated as Marantz support is useless.
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post #4431 of 4557 Old 06-18-2019, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by spers25 View Post
You have to get the firmware from Marantz and put it on a usb drive. Actually I had to roll the firmware back to June 2018 for airplay and iTunes to work correctly. If I recall I had to register with Marantz and give the serial number of receiver to download the firmware.
FYI - The firmware files are available at: http://usa.marantz.com/us/support/pa...ctupdates.aspx . They ask for your serial number before giving you the download link for the latest firmware (only). Hint, you can enter "INTERNAL_TEST" for the serial for any model.
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post #4432 of 4557 Old 06-19-2019, 02:14 PM
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Does anyone know how to make TV AUDIO optical the default input on startup without using HDMI control? I can not get ARC to sync correctly at all. Optical is synced perfectly but I lose CEC control meaning to many button presses to get it all working.

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post #4433 of 4557 Old 06-19-2019, 02:15 PM
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Sorry SR6012

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post #4434 of 4557 Old 06-19-2019, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Phldavisg View Post
Does anyone know how to make TV AUDIO optical the default input on startup without using HDMI control? I can not get ARC to sync correctly at all. Optical is synced perfectly but I lose CEC control meaning to many button presses to get it all working.
Set it up as a SMART SELECT button (p. 146 Owner's manual).
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post #4435 of 4557 Old 06-19-2019, 07:01 PM
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@jdsmoothie I've got an issue that may involve the 7012 receiver; would appreciate your input.

I've had DirectTV for 2 years with the HDMI output from the DTV box going into the AVR and then AVR to HDMI 2 (ARC input) on the TV.

Normally we watch with TV audio, AVR off. When we want to use the AVR sound we turn it on and it switches.....no issues.

A few weeks ago we switched to Xfinity and their 4K reciever; same setup.

We've having an issue when the Xfinity receiver gets powered up (it's set for energy saver mode just like the DTV was), it comes up with audio (most of the time) but no video (most of the time). I've swapped out HDMI cables and Xfinity has swapped out their receivers, but still having the issue.

Is this something you've seen where going through the AVR is causing this issue? Does it sound plausible? I like the setup the way it is, but obviously having to yank out the power cable most every morning is not something I want to continue with. For what it's worth, Xfinity has no clue (but that's another story).

Thanks,
Bruce
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post #4436 of 4557 Old 06-20-2019, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by BruceWG View Post
@jdsmoothie I've got an issue that may involve the 7012 receiver; would appreciate your input.

I've had DirectTV for 2 years with the HDMI output from the DTV box going into the AVR and then AVR to HDMI 2 (ARC input) on the TV.

Normally we watch with TV audio, AVR off. When we want to use the AVR sound we turn it on and it switches.....no issues.

A few weeks ago we switched to Xfinity and their 4K reciever; same setup.

We've having an issue when the Xfinity receiver gets powered up (it's set for energy saver mode just like the DTV was), it comes up with audio (most of the time) but no video (most of the time). I've swapped out HDMI cables and Xfinity has swapped out their receivers, but still having the issue.

Is this something you've seen where going through the AVR is causing this issue? Does it sound plausible? I like the setup the way it is, but obviously having to yank out the power cable most every morning is not something I want to continue with. For what it's worth, Xfinity has no clue (but that's another story).

Thanks,
Bruce
This has been a very common occurrence ever since HDMI was first introduced 10 years ago, known as an "HDMI handshake". It can occur with any brand of AVR and any source, more often with cable/sat boxes as they are more commonly used. You can often mitigate HDMI handshakes by powering on each component in the HDMI chain as follows: TV, pause 5 seconds, AVR, pause 5 seconds, source.

Additional helpful information:
HDMI handshake issues will most often present as "audio dropouts" or sometimes video display issues. Ensure the source device having the issue has the latest firmware installed and has been reset (ie. powered down, unplugged for a few minutes, then powered back ON again). For a more detailed HDMI reset try the following procedure ....

  • HDMI HDCP reset
  • With all devices powered on, remove the two HDMI cables at both ends from the source device to the AVR and from the AVR to the TV.
  • Power off all devices and disconnect power cables to all devices.
  • Wait 10-15 minutes.
  • Reconnect HDMI and power cables to all devices.
  • Power on the devices in this order ... TV, wait a few secs, AVR, wait a few secs, and then source device (although this is the generally recommended order, in some instances, you may have better luck powering on the AVR first and then the TV, then the source last ... bottom line if it's still not working, try a different power on sequence).
If the issue only involves the cable/sat box, HDMI handshake issues with cable/sat boxes are quite common (with any brand of AVR) and are usually always the fault of the cable/sat box not being designed to be connected to an HDMI repeater (ie. AVR) which is why they work without issue connected directly to the TV. Give your cable/sat box provider a call to see if there is a separate firmware update that can be applied to the box to resolve the issue although note that in some cases, a future firmware update to the cable/sat box may very well cause an HDMI handshake issue as well, so your best option to avoid the issue now (or in the future) is to connect the cable/sat box HDMI directly to the TV and also connect an optical cable from the cable/sat box to the AVR for surround audio. If you don't have an optical cable available, and your cable/sat box has a coax digital "orange" output, you can also use a coax digital cable (note: a "yellow" composite video RCA cable is a suitable substitute) and connect it to the SAT/CBL coax digital input on the AVR (ie. right next to the optical jack). Note that with this configuration (ie. HDMI straight to TV) you will lose the GUI/status menu for the cable/sat box, but you retain the capability to watch TV using the TV speakers only with the AVR in Standby (eg. news, sports, wife, kids). Another option, if your AVR features a component video input is to connect both a component video cable and an optical (or digital coax) cable from the cable/sat box to the AVR noting that although you gain the GUI/status menu feature, you will lose the capability to watch TV using the TV speakers only. You may also want to try upgrading to a different model cable/sat box.

Other possible solutions:
  • Try inserting an HDMI switch in between the AVR and the TV (or better yet add either an HDMI Dective Plus or Dr HDMI).
  • Ensure there is proper ventilation around the AVR (at least 3-4" above the unit) and if enclosed in a cabinet, use a PC fan to exhaust the heated air out the back of the cabinet
  • HDMI performance can also vary between the different HDMI input jacks due to quirks of circuit board design so be sure to try each of the other HDMI inputs as one may work better than another
  • If you are having a video issue, try setting the "Resolution" setting to the resolution of the TV(eg. 1080p) rather than using the "Auto" setting.
  • Try inserting the Dr. HDMI between the AVR and the TV/PJ.

Last edited by jdsmoothie; 06-20-2019 at 12:21 AM.
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post #4437 of 4557 Old 06-20-2019, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
This has been a very common occurrence ever since HDMI was first introduced 10 years ago, known as an "HDMI handshake". It can occur with any brand of AVR and any source, more often with cable/sat boxes as they are more commonly used. You can often mitigate HDMI handshakes by powering on each component in the HDMI chain as follows: TV, pause 5 seconds, AVR, pause 5 seconds, source.
Thanks for the detailed info (I didn't quote the whole thing for space, but I did read through it). What's a bit discouraging for me is that I've run system the same way for a couple of years (through the AVR) and didn't have this issue with DTV.

Although we run the cable to the AVR and then to the TV, we don't have the AVR on most of the time. I guess I could run one cable out of the Xfinity box directly to the TV and take the AVR out of the picture, then have a second cable from the AVR to the xfinity box laying in the back and just swap them when I wanted to run it through the AVR. Kind of klunky but would eliminate the AVR from the problem.

Thanks,
Bruce
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post #4438 of 4557 Old 06-20-2019, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by BruceWG View Post
Thanks for the detailed info (I didn't quote the whole thing for space, but I did read through it). What's a bit discouraging for me is that I've run system the same way for a couple of years (through the AVR) and didn't have this issue with DTV.

Although we run the cable to the AVR and then to the TV, we don't have the AVR on most of the time. I guess I could run one cable out of the Xfinity box directly to the TV and take the AVR out of the picture, then have a second cable from the AVR to the xfinity box laying in the back and just swap them when I wanted to run it through the AVR. Kind of klunky but would eliminate the AVR from the problem.

Thanks,
Bruce
As I point out in my additional info, you can connect a coax digital cable from the cable box to the AVR for audio only so as not to have to change cables. No loss in audio quality, rather only loss of on screen GUI because the video is going to the TV and not through the AVR.
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post #4439 of 4557 Old 06-20-2019, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
As I point out in my additional info, you can connect a coax digital cable from the cable box to the AVR for audio only so as not to have to change cables. No loss in audio quality, rather only loss of on screen GUI because the video is going to the TV and not through the AVR.
I'm going to have to check the back of the box for that (I'm at work now). It's a very small box with limited connections, I don't remember if there is an output for that. I'll look when I get home - thanks for the reminder.
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post #4440 of 4557 Old 06-20-2019, 06:46 AM
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*Official* Marantz 2017 NR1508/1608, SR5012/6012/7012 owner's thread

On a whim here dont know anything about the xfinity boxes but can you check the settings in the box like you can do with the DTV boxes...


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