*Official* Marantz 2017 NR1508/1608, SR5012/6012/7012 owner's thread - Page 153 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4561 of 4872 Old 07-22-2019, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Airsculpture View Post
Thanks for the response. I’m not using Aud. Just wanted to know if anyone had encountered similar issues using a USB drive plugged into the Marantz.

Didn’t want a debate on the merits or not of Hi Res music, lossless v lossy etc, just a little help with a USB drive.

I personally don’t hear much difference if any with the Hi Res files but you know that itch when you can’t get something to work that should work, that’s all.


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I haven't tried a USB stick with music on it. I have one I use in my car I can try plugging into the Marantz 7012, but it doesn't contain any music files with bitrates or sampling rates above normal so the results might not mean much. What format are your files on the USB stick in? (i.e. ALAC, FLAC, WAV or something else/newer?) It might not be able to read a given format, for example rather than anything to do with the audio contained within that container for it.

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post #4562 of 4872 Old 07-22-2019, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Airsculpture View Post
Anyone had any joy plugging in a USB portable drive into the front USB port and using to play music on the Marantz 6012 ?

Mine seems formatted correctly in FAT32 but the Marantz just shows the message “no content to display”

Wanted this to work as I’m shipping out my Oppo.

Thoughts ?


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i had the same issue on SR7012 with a sandisk cruzer fit usb 2.0 drive; i tried fat16/fat32 and different file formats and none were recognized.
it worked without issues with sandisk ultra fit usb 3.0 and 3.1 drives; verbatim store n go nano drives, usb 2.0/3.0 too worked without issues.
i wanted a small form factor drive, so that i can leave the usb drive plugged and keep the front flap closed.
when i contacted Marantz, i was told that not all drives would work and that they don't have any planned updates for this.
please note that i am not for/against any brands and am just sharing my experience.
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post #4563 of 4872 Old 07-22-2019, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by polkandwhat View Post
i had the same issue on SR7012 with a sandisk cruzer fit usb 2.0 drive; i tried fat16/fat32 and different file formats and none were recognized.

it worked without issues with sandisk ultra fit usb 3.0 and 3.1 drives; verbatim store n go nano drives, usb 2.0/3.0 too worked without issues.

i wanted a small form factor drive, so that i can leave the usb drive plugged and keep the front flap closed.

when i contacted Marantz, i was told that not all drives would work and that they don't have any planned updates for this.

please note that i am not for/against any brands and am just sharing my experience.


Thanks mate, that’s what I thought. It’s nothing to do with the drive format, or the format of the files as there are all sorts on the drive as stated previously - not just hires but also mp3 and AAC 120/192 and ALACs

I’ll just use my hires DAP instead.


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post #4564 of 4872 Old 07-22-2019, 10:14 PM
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My equipment is attached to power conditioner so no lighting or brownouts. Is there hdmi diagnostic menu on marantz 6012?


How to access that?

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post #4565 of 4872 Old 07-23-2019, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by MagnumX View Post
In reply to the post questioning my statements on digital audio, well performed double blind tests prove what can be heard and what cannot. Typically the claim about a given audio issue is that someone can hear something that someone else cannot. A DBX box with a double blind test can determine whether or not this claim is true. The problem is that most people making those claims don't want to take these tests to prove their assertions are true. That creates a simple opinion versus opinion situation that cannot be resolved definitively. I've seen reasons given (e.g. the DBX switch somehow magically obliterates just those differences they claimed to hear in the signal, etc. or that there's not enough time to decide, the latter of which isn't an issue. Take all the time you want.)

Digital sampling theory is well understood (frequency is controlled by the sampling rate and dynamic range by the number of bits used) and only people that believe they can hear things others cannot buy into more bits and higher sampling rates are needed. A human cannot hear beyond 20kHz. A human would not want to hear much more than 96dB dynamic range (very bad for your hearing) and most recordings don't even come close, even many of the ones praised by high-end music rags as being the best recordings ever made. More dynamic range means quieter on the bottom end, which means you have to crank the volume to hear it and that means the louder sounds are VERY loud indeed. It's why they squash the crap out of most recordings to play on the radio (and then later with CDs too) as people get angry when they cannot hear anything in the car and other loud locations (wearing cheap earbuds in crowds/outside for example). Less dynamic range means less differences in volumes which makes it easier to hear in poor environments. Hence why so many CDs are so loud and the records sometimes sound better (you can only squash it so much before a needle will jump out of the groove, limiting how much damage these people can do to records a little bit). Those are the real reasons we have poor CD recordings.

SACD gives the impression of being better sounding because they often go back and remaster to higher quality level. They then pretend it's the higher bit rates, etc. that made the difference. It's pure BS. Take the SACD "hires" recording and sample it at CD rates and even burn a new CD with it. It will sound IDENTICAL. You can do the same thing with vinyl records. Take the best record you have and sample it and play back the digital version. You will not be able to tell the difference other than any new dust/clicks/pops that the record keeps acquiring. This has been shown with double blind tests to be true. Don't believe it? It's easy to reproduce at home with a DBX box. Sony pulls another fast one and outputs the SACD signal on double-sided discs LOUDER than the signal from the CD side and this is Psychology 101. If it sounds slightly louder, humans tend to associate it with "more detail" rather than volume level as you can hear more detail coming out of the noise floor. It proves nothing, but it's a good way to fool people. It's the same reason during the Pepsi vs. Coke challenge that Pepsi used to do at malls they'd give you Pepsi FIRST every single time. Why? A less sweet drink tastes even less sweet or "odd" after drinking something more sweet. Since Coke has less sugar in it than Pepsi, this made Coke taste bad/off to most people and thus most people would pick the first drink and they'd reveal it to be Pepsi! They would then think, gee, I should give Pepsi another try! It's dishonest and it's deceptive.

I find most people who would rather believe 24/96 sounds better think that "stair step drawings" show the problem with digital audio and that more steps means getting closer to that nice analog curve. But that's 100% fallacy. THAT is the LIE that poor magazines have put out for some time to make you think that's how digital works. It does NOT work that way at all. There are no "stair steps" in digital audio. Sampling when put through the reconstruction filter outputs a perfectly reproduced and smooth sine wave. There are no "steps" to it. All audio is comprised of well understood wave theory. A transfer function at any moment in time can perfectly describe any electrical signal. People need to read less Stereophile fairy tales and read some actual scientific papers on digital audio.

So why do they try to sell a format like SACD? Money. It's the same problem the movie industry is having now. How do we keep selling the same movies to people over and over again? VHS tapes would wear out. DVDs would scratch (bad). Blu-Rays hold up much better against scratches and are pretty high resolution. So, let's go to 4K! Can't see a big difference on TV screens under 100 inches? Well, let's invent HDR (trick method to make contrast situations most cameras cannot capture without multiple exposures at once). You can see that even if you sit 20 feet away! Let's put Atmos only on 4K discs so they think it's part of the 4K format (when it's not). What are they going to do next? Even people that know little about the formats know that 8K is total overkill unless you have a giant screen or sit inches away from one. This is a real problem for the industry as their money grab for older material is going away. So the solution long term is STREAMING. Don't SELL movies. RENT them. Rent them en masse even (Netflix). They need a steady stream of income that never ends. The music industry has already figured this out and hence Apple Music, Spotify, etc. You're paying a rental charge that never goes away. Stop paying that fee and you have NO music library whatsoever. They got you. Perpetual lifetime payments for something that most people only like a limited number of music titles. But they'll tell you it's selection and convenience and a tiny fee compared to buying all those titles. Yes, like cable. That got up to $123 a month for me and most months I didn't want much TV at all (filled with commercials to boot). It's a really GREAT value alright...if that's all you do is sit there and watch TV all month.
Excellent write-up. Why didnt you just say that at the start?
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post #4566 of 4872 Old 07-23-2019, 01:57 PM
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Excellent write-up. Why didnt you just say that at the start?
Scott
It's a lot of typing for one thing and I find myself repeating the same diatribe's over the years in many different forums (starting with Usenet back when). Maybe I should just save a copy and paste in the future.

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post #4567 of 4872 Old 07-23-2019, 03:51 PM
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*Official* Marantz 2017 NR1508/1608, SR5012/6012/7012 owner's thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnumX View Post
It's a lot of typing for one thing and I find myself repeating the same diatribe's over the years in many different forums (starting with Usenet back when). Maybe I should just save a copy and paste in the future.


Would have been useful too had I actually asked anything about that in my original post about accessing a USB drive, the drive having all sorts of files on it.

Anyway, thanks to polkandwhat for answering my question. I didn’t mean to cause an argument if that’s what happened


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post #4568 of 4872 Old 07-23-2019, 04:04 PM
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Would have been useful too had I actually asked anything about that in my original post about accessing a USB drive, the drive having all sorts of files on it
I gave you a possible solution (use another/dedicated media player). You rejected it on the basis of it not producing that "hires" sound. I was simply pointing out that if there's no audible difference, why worry about it? (As was pointed out, you cannot play them at those bit/sampling rates with Audyssey turned ON anyway so you'd have to give up room correction, which can make a real audible difference in many rooms). You still have the master files either way. I think the 7012 can access DLNA servers for shared music. You could try that with your PC instead of a USB stick or as was pointed out, a different brand USB stick. I don't think you ever said what format the files were in either. It's possible the 7012 can't read certain file formats for music files.

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post #4569 of 4872 Old 07-23-2019, 07:39 PM
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*Official* Marantz 2017 NR1508/1608, SR5012/6012/7012 owner's thread

I did.
I also told you I had the Apple TV but wanted to get the USB working because “it was an itch I wanted to scratch”

Never mind sorted now. Have a great day mate.


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post #4570 of 4872 Old 07-25-2019, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
The HDMI is working TV->AVR, thus no display on the TV. Open the AVR's door and read from the front display of the AVR
Here is Marantz' response to why the 7012 GUI does not display when source is TV:
The 7012's GUI (menu) won't be available when using an internal TV App as the video source at that point is the TV. In order to get GUI output the video source needs to feed through the 7012.

For example, if you had a media streaming device (Firestick, Roku, Apple TV, etc.) connected to the 7012, the video from that device would feed through the receiver and then out to the TV. In that scenario, the GUI and OSD (On Screen Display) would overlay onto the image. Because the TV is generating the video in this case, the receiver is only getting the audio track fed back via ARC or the optical connection.

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post #4571 of 4872 Old 07-25-2019, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post
Here is Marantz' response to why the 7012 GUI does not display when source is TV:
The 7012's GUI (menu) won't be available when using an internal TV App as the video source at that point is the TV. In order to get GUI output the video source needs to feed through the 7012.

For example, if you had a media streaming device (Firestick, Roku, Apple TV, etc.) connected to the 7012, the video from that device would feed through the receiver and then out to the TV. In that scenario, the GUI and OSD (On Screen Display) would overlay onto the image. Because the TV is generating the video in this case, the receiver is only getting the audio track fed back via ARC or the optical connection.

Scott
Makes sense.

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post #4572 of 4872 Old 07-25-2019, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by polkandwhat View Post
i had the same issue on SR7012 with a sandisk cruzer fit usb 2.0 drive; i tried fat16/fat32 and different file formats and none were recognized.

it worked without issues with sandisk ultra fit usb 3.0 and 3.1 drives; verbatim store n go nano drives, usb 2.0/3.0 too worked without issues.

i wanted a small form factor drive, so that i can leave the usb drive plugged and keep the front flap closed.

when i contacted Marantz, i was told that not all drives would work and that they don't have any planned updates for this.

please note that i am not for/against any brands and am just sharing my experience.


Hit and miss recognizing folders and files despite all the files sitting within the allowed ones from the manual shown below




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post #4573 of 4872 Old 07-26-2019, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by polkandwhat View Post
when i contacted Marantz, i was told that not all drives would work and that they don't have any planned updates for this.
please note that i am not for/against any brands and am just sharing my experience.
So yesterday, I discovered I had a Patriot XT USB3 drive here that worked fine in a USB2 slot, but was not recognized in a USB3 slot on my relatively current desktop machine. On another machine, it was recognized in both, and a third machine had the same symptoms as mine did.

So I spent an hour Googling around to discover that certain (mostly but not all older internal design) flash drives just won't work with certain USB controllers and/or drivers. There are combinations of controller chips inside the drives and USB chipsets/drivers in some hardware that simply won't talk to each other enough to even recognize that a drive's been plugged in, never mind read its contents.

If it's a driver issue, it's possible an update might fix it. But if it's a USB chipset issue in the hardware, it can't be fixed with an update - the hardware chipset would have to be replaced, an unlikely scenario for any motherboard or AVR or anything similar.

Perhaps that's what's happening here.
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post #4574 of 4872 Old 07-26-2019, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post
Here is Marantz' response to why the 7012 GUI does not display when source is TV:
The 7012's GUI (menu) won't be available when using an internal TV App as the video source at that point is the TV. In order to get GUI output the video source needs to feed through the 7012.

For example, if you had a media streaming device (Firestick, Roku, Apple TV, etc.) connected to the 7012, the video from that device would feed through the receiver and then out to the TV. In that scenario, the GUI and OSD (On Screen Display) would overlay onto the image. Because the TV is generating the video in this case, the receiver is only getting the audio track fed back via ARC or the optical connection.

Scott
This is of course true for "overlay" of the GUI as there is no source video passing through the AVR for the GUI to "overlay" on; however, for simply displaying the GUI on a black background, it should display (at least it does on Denon anyway).
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post #4575 of 4872 Old 07-27-2019, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
This is of course true for "overlay" of the GUI as there is no source video passing through the AVR for the GUI to "overlay" on; however, for simply displaying the GUI on a black background, it should display (at least it does on Denon anyway).
Agreed, but it doesnt on the SR7012.

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post #4576 of 4872 Old 07-27-2019, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
This is of course true for "overlay" of the GUI as there is no source video passing through the AVR for the GUI to "overlay" on; however, for simply displaying the GUI on a black background, it should display (at least it does on Denon anyway).
Agreed, but it doesnt on the SR7012.
That sound like it is entirely the fault of the TV as it controls whether an incoming source can override the internally generated picture from an app or not as the TV has essentially become another video switcher. There may even be a setting somewhere on the TV for this behavior. It would be essentially the same as in the old days switching to antenna on the TV and wondering why you can't see the VCR picture anymore. Without ARC you wouldn't get any sound from the antenna or apps either through the AVR. It would have to be routed through an AVR input for it to work. ARC is meant to be for audio only so why would it override the TV input setting? However, some manufacturers add custom functions. Even without ARC, the TV can potentially monitor sources connected to its inputs and allow it to override or automatically switch to that input, at least momentarily, but that's up to the TV not the 7012.

I don't think any other AVR would behave any differently unless the TV's ARC function has non-standard features/commands (common with ARC and different manufacturers adding their own crap) that would allow one brand to override and not another. I would find it more likely there's either a TV setting to control the behavior or it won't work for any AVR that way.

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post #4577 of 4872 Old 07-27-2019, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by MagnumX View Post
That sound like it is entirely the fault of the TV as it controls whether an incoming source can override the internally generated picture from an app or not as the TV has essentially become another video switcher. There may even be a setting somewhere on the TV for this behavior. It would be essentially the same as in the old days switching to antenna on the TV and wondering why you can't see the VCR picture anymore. Without ARC you wouldn't get any sound from the antenna or apps either through the AVR. It would have to be routed through an AVR input for it to work. ARC is meant to be for audio only so why would it override the TV input setting? However, some manufacturers add custom functions. Even without ARC, the TV can potentially monitor sources connected to its inputs and allow it to override or automatically switch to that input, at least momentarily, but that's up to the TV not the 7012.

I don't think any other AVR would behave any differently unless the TV's ARC function has non-standard features/commands (common with ARC and different manufacturers adding their own crap) that would allow one brand to override and not another. I would find it more likely there's either a TV setting to control the behavior or it won't work for any AVR that way.
Agreed but I am not using ARC. It would be most helpful if someone with a 7012 would report their findings using a similar hookup and a TV-based app.

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post #4578 of 4872 Old 07-27-2019, 10:08 AM
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My projector doesn't have apps so I can't test it. Maybe someone here has a smart TV and a 7012.

Click THEATER (Updated: Nov-12-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 11-01-19)
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post #4579 of 4872 Old 07-28-2019, 01:28 PM
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SR5012 - No Subwoofer Output

I have had a SR5012 for the last couple years and I have been having a lot of trouble with the subwoofer. I have an SVS SB2000 that sounds great... when I can get it to work. First, in the interest of full disclosure, I did not set up the system. I hired a home theater company to install everything and set it up. I'm fairly tech savvy but not too well versed in home theater set up and I was building a new house so I just had someone wire everything and set it all up.

When I first had everything set up, the sub worked fine. Then it would intermittently cut out and stop working all together for periods of time. The installer used cheap coaxial connectors, so I upgraded everything and got a dedicated subwoofer cable and and better connectors. I could get the sub to work intermittently, but not all the time. At this point I contacted SVS and they were kind enough to send me a new sub because they said something could be loose internally.

When I received the new sub it worked initially but then I started running into the same issues. At this point, I can't get the sub to work at all. I have tested the sub using my phone and plugged a wire directly into it and there is bass, so the sub itself works.

Right now I'm wondering if there is some setting that I could have changed inadvertently or if there is something I can do to increase the output to the sub. I want to try everything I can before I have the installer send someone out to look at it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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post #4580 of 4872 Old 07-28-2019, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mummer43 View Post
I have had a SR5012 for the last couple years and I have been having a lot of trouble with the subwoofer. I have an SVS SB2000 that sounds great... when I can get it to work. First, in the interest of full disclosure, I did not set up the system. I hired a home theater company to install everything and set it up. I'm fairly tech savvy but not too well versed in home theater set up and I was building a new house so I just had someone wire everything and set it all up.

When I first had everything set up, the sub worked fine. Then it would intermittently cut out and stop working all together for periods of time. The installer used cheap coaxial connectors, so I upgraded everything and got a dedicated subwoofer cable and and better connectors. I could get the sub to work intermittently, but not all the time. At this point I contacted SVS and they were kind enough to send me a new sub because they said something could be loose internally.

When I received the new sub it worked initially but then I started running into the same issues. At this point, I can't get the sub to work at all. I have tested the sub using my phone and plugged a wire directly into it and there is bass, so the sub itself works.

Right now I'm wondering if there is some setting that I could have changed inadvertently or if there is something I can do to increase the output to the sub. I want to try everything I can before I have the installer send someone out to look at it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Pull the coax cable from the AVR's sub pre-out and with the sub powered ON, rub your finger over the tip. Hear static from the sub? If no, the cable is bad. If yes, there may be an issue with the sub pre-out jack or possibly simply the sub trim level needs to be increased.

Under <Manual Setup - Levels - Test Tone Start - Subwoofer>, what does the Sub level indicate? Is Audyssey enabled (press the INFO button while a source is playing)?
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post #4581 of 4872 Old 07-28-2019, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mummer43 View Post
Right now I'm wondering if there is some setting that I could have changed inadvertently or if there is something I can do to increase the output to the sub
Might you be using "Direct" or "Pure Direct"? Those will kill the sub output when listening to stereo sources.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #4582 of 4872 Old 07-30-2019, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by tekdredger View Post
Ok, this one has me puzzled and I apologize in advance if this has been addressed previously.

I'm setting up a new SR7012 and I have an LG 4k HDR LCD smart TV connected to the HDMI 1 output and my Panasonic PT-AE4000U projector connected to HDMI output 2. Everything is fine when viewing the TV but when I want to watch the projector I get screen blanking every 10 or 15 seconds. Sometimes when it goes to black there will be a flash of color near the bottom and eventually after doing this several times it goes totally blank and loses audio as well. It looks like a typical HDMI handshake problem. HDMI output is set to Auto(dual). But here is the curious part...if I leave the TV powered on at the same time then the projector plays fine. Watched an entire movie the other night without so much as a glitch. I have tried every possible setting combination and permutation that I can think of, things like ARC and HDMI control, resolution settings, etc., etc., etc. but the only thing that works is to set the HDMI output to HDMI 2, not both. I have also tried various recommended power up sequences, even did a factory reset on the Marantz to no avail. Input source has no effect. I am flummoxed. If anyone has any tips or has had the same experience I would greatly appreciate your advice.


Maybe I am misinterpreting the function of this setting but it does seem obvious what it should do when set to "Auto", i.e. direct the output to the active device. One of the reasons for buying a new AVR was to simplify my switching scheme to make it easier for other family members to use. If I have to go into settings to change the output then I haven't really gained anything - frustrating.
I have/had the same issue. Thought my projector was going bad - had a PT-ax200u so I replaced it with a PT-AE8000u. Much better picture but same problem. Replaced a 30 ft HDMI run, same thing , got a wireless hdmi transmitter/receiver still had same issue. Eventually stumbled upon the solution after getting a different AVR. I had given up on my projector and gone back to solely viewing on my 65" Sony 850c.

So not long after getting my SR5012 I decided to redo my HT room with new carpet and furniture. When setting my system back up I decide to go from 7.2 to a 5.2.2 Atmos configuration but like an idiot I had my unit turned on and dropped a speaker wire pairing and it landed on a metal heating vent and there was a loud pop and my receiver went into protect mode and nothing could bring it out.
I had been using Pioneer Elite unit but was having the projector issue and it only did 4k at 30p and no HDR so I got an inexpensive Onkyo 676. [I had great fortune prior to that with an onkyo TX-NR905 which had dual hdmi but not simultaneous so never had an issue. Fantastic AVR when it came out but I digress]].

Anyhow was having some sound issues (pop and crackle) which turned out to be unrelated to the 676 - HTPC audio driver became corrupted but decided to send off my 5012 for repair estimate ad I was never pleased with the audio on my 676 and discovered the projector video issue was fixed by having 1 output at a time active. To replace fried board(s) actually was reasonable $239 so I will soon be getting my 5012 back. Although getting useful info from the porthole display with my 50 yrs old eyes is pointless I recall really liking the sound of the 5012. Curious to see how it performs with all the new firmware updates and with my system (Paradigm monitor line speakers x7 , HSU VTF-2 & B+W ASW610 subs, 850c display and PTAE8000u proj., PS4, HTPC/gaming PC, Samsung 4k Blu-Ray player)

Also wondering how the headphone jack sounds. Using a Lawton nodded Foatex TH-900 headphone with dedicated Music Hall DAC and Garage 1317 Tube amp but sometimes it is easy to grab my Beyerdynamic DT990 and Jack straight into the AVR for fun listening or comfort + huge soundstage when gaming
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post #4583 of 4872 Old 07-31-2019, 11:34 AM
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So I've been using and, for the most part, very happy with my Yamaha 3050 for the past several years. However, in my last theater space (in my last house before I moved to have a dedicated home theater in December), while I noticed that YPAO didn't seem to be quite as effective as the Audyssey systems I had before, it wasn't significant of a difference to deter from the obvious improvement in overall sound quality that I noticed with the upgrade to the Yamaha (sorry, that was confusing: the sound on the Yamaha was amazing but was never really happy with YPAO results). But in my super-square cube theater room (a temporary space until I gut the large theater room that I moved into this house for), I've been extremely disappointed with the bass and the cohesiveness of the soundfield on the Yamaha. To the point where I didn't really enjoy watching movies anymore. Then it occurred to me: WHY NOT TRY OUT ANOTHER AUDYSSEY RECEIVER?!

So I started looking at slightly older Marantaz and Denon AVRs and settled on the Marantz 7012. I thought about upgrading to the Marantz 8805 but, since I want to wait for that upgrade until I do the big theater, it makes sense to wait and see if the Emotiva gets its bugs worked out and/or the Monoprice one ends up being a good option (though I REALLY like the upgradeability of the Emotiva ::fingers crossed:, so an older model suited me just fine. And honestly I would've been fine with a 7.2.2 (total processing channels) but it seems like all the higher-end versions do 7.2.4 anyways, so why not? BTW, don't waste your breath on convincing me to go to 7.2.4, I've tried it--I've always preferred the single pair of (middle) overheads. Now, SIX overheads I think will probably be the ideal... and with a 9.2+ lower layer. Anyhoo... rambling.

Long story short: I am so glad I'm back to an Audyssey receiver. The cohesiveness and absolute massive size of the soundfield on even films upmixed to Atmos is sublime. My M&K 150 LCRs now blend waaaay better with my Atlantic Tech 2200s that I've got in ever other speaker location. The "sound bubble" that I once had is now back. Phantom imagining between speakers is now back. The bass is also substantially better but that's not really a fair comparison. Simultaneously with the AVR upgrade, I also upgraded my 2x18" poorly designed DIY ported subs and rear 18" sealed (crappy) Dayton sub with 4 individual 15" sealed (in overbuilt cabinets) Dayton HOs in each corner elevated midwall. I haven't even gotten into treating the room for bass yet, but it's really damn good as it is. (I did also get a miniDSP but I won't know if I actually need it until I measure the room).

Anyhoo, loving the new receiver. Yamahas put out some amazing sound, but I think YPAO is not very effective at correcting room or speaker mismatch anomalies. Maybe doing so results in a degradation of overall sound quality somewhat, but I guess it depends on what you think is important.
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post #4584 of 4872 Old 07-31-2019, 11:41 AM
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Oh, I do have a question... I'm trying to keep equipment in my A/V rack cool and, while it's no secret that Denon/Marantz AVRs get hot, but is it the amps that make them hot or something else? I ask because mine is only running the rear surrounds and the overheads, all other channels go to a Monoprice Monolith 5 channel amp (LCRs and Side Surrounds) and an older Emotiva XPA-5 (the four subs). So far I've never even noticed the big amps getting warm to the touch but the Marantz (like the Yamaha before it) gets HOT!! (and they all get very similar levels of ventilation and spacing in the rack) If it is the amps in the AVR, is there any way to mitigate that? I only just started tinkering with the amp/speaker configuration part the other day to get zone 2 working but I didn't notice an option to individually set speakers to be "pre-out" (if that would make a difference). Guess I also want to know if stand-alone pre-pros are also going to get hot. So far I've never had one but that upgrade is coming up on the horizon and I want to know if I should be treating AVRs and pre-pros like the hottest boys in the tower, because that is not something at all that I've been anticipating.
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post #4585 of 4872 Old 07-31-2019, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by javanpohl View Post
Oh, I do have a question... I'm trying to keep equipment in my A/V rack cool and, while it's no secret that Denon/Marantz AVRs get hot, but is it the amps that make them hot or something else? I ask because mine is only running the rear surrounds and the overheads, all other channels go to a Monoprice Monolith 5 channel amp (LCRs and Side Surrounds) and an older Emotiva XPA-5 (the four subs). So far I've never even noticed the big amps getting warm to the touch but the Marantz (like the Yamaha before it) gets HOT!! (and they all get very similar levels of ventilation and spacing in the rack) If it is the amps in the AVR, is there any way to mitigate that? I only just started tinkering with the amp/speaker configuration part the other day to get zone 2 working but I didn't notice an option to individually set speakers to be "pre-out" (if that would make a difference). Guess I also want to know if stand-alone pre-pros are also going to get hot. So far I've never had one but that upgrade is coming up on the horizon and I want to know if I should be treating AVRs and pre-pros like the hottest boys in the tower, because that is not something at all that I've been anticipating.
Something else … the video card.

With sufficient ventilation space (ie. >3-4" above with open sides/front/back) there shouldn't be as much of an issue. Note;however, a couple of options to help cool the AVR/AVP down is to use (a) an AC Infinity AirComm S8/T8 (rear exhaust) fan on top of the AVR or (b) set ECO mode to AUTO or ON which will generally lower the core temp by about 10F.
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post #4586 of 4872 Old 08-02-2019, 02:55 PM
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Hi all,

I just replaced a nr1403 with an sr6012 and I am now experiencing a hiss coming from my tweeters, which from what I understand is caused by the 'floor noise' of the amp and is considered 'normal'.

I already verified the following:
- hiss is present, even without any hdmi input/output sources connected to the amp
- hiss is present on all satellite/surround speakers
- hiss is present when hooking up a one different speaker, but also leaving all the other speakers still connected
- hiss volume does not change by increasing/lowering the amp volume

My speakers are harman kardon hkts20, which according to the spec are 8 ohms: SPL @ 1 watt/meter: 86dB

I heard the hiss the first night after replacing the amp while sitting at my normal sitting position which is about 1,8m from my surrounds and 2,5m from my fronts.
During the day with more ambient noise I can only hear it when I put my ear at about 0,5m in the path of the tweeter. But now I known it's there, it's difficult to 'unhear' it.

Does anybody who owns the sr6012 has a similar hiss?

Is there any steps that can be taken to 'reduce/remove' the hiss?
Cabling wise, my setup is still a bit of a mess. I haven't removed excess speaker wire and they form a bit of a mess behind the amp, bunched together with some power cables of the amp/tv receiver/media player.

If nothing can be done I guess I just have to accept it or return the amp in the next 2 weeks.

Thanks,

Werner
Regarding hiss on Marantz SR 6012.

I have had this receiver for nearly a year and it works great. Recently I noticed a hiss coming from the speakers. Effected all speakers. It was loud enough to hear in the quieter sections of music and definitely in movies. Even was quite audible when using only headphones. The hiss did not change with volume but was constant not matter what controls you adjusted. I tried resetting the receiver (by holding the power button down for 5 seconds) and the hiss continued.

I tried unhooking each source. The blue ray player, apple TV, cable box, xbox and turntable with its ground wire. The hiss continued.

Then I noticed as I reached into the connectors at the back the hiss would change a little bit when touching the phono in jacks. I removed the phono and ground completely. It still hissed. Then I pushed on and near the RCA connector jack in the back. THE HISS STOPPED !! I tested the sound and a few minuets later I hear the hiss again. Taking the pressure off of the many connectors on the various RCA jacks and pushing with my finger on the RCA jacks I got the hiss to stop again.

I carefully reattached everything and turned the unit back into its normal position. I had to twist the unit 90 degrees to get at the connectors as I had no rear access.

The unit plays perfectly again with no hiss.

My conclusion is there is a intermittent bad connection in the area of the phono RCA jacks. I was lucky to have found it. If your unit or similar unit has hiss then it may be from a similar bad connection on the RCA plugs. If it does start hissing again at least I will know what would need to be serviced.
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post #4587 of 4872 Old 08-03-2019, 01:34 PM
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Accessory Cooling fan question

New to the Marantz fold with an SR7012 (thank you Accessories4less), I’ve read the roughly 4600 posts here, the recommendation is for the AC Infinity cooling fan, at the end of the day does their fan provide better cooling than a 17” laptop fan place above the AVR to pull air out?

Thoughts?

Thanks.

You haven't been there... and you haven't done it.
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post #4588 of 4872 Old 08-03-2019, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by stevemilleresq View Post
New to the Marantz fold with an SR7012 (thank you Accessories4less), I’ve read the roughly 4600 posts here, the recommendation is for the AC Infinity cooling fan, at the end of the day does their fan provide better cooling than a 17” laptop fan place above the AVR to pull air out?

Thoughts?

Thanks.
Yep, Ac is a good deal to keep your 7012 lasting a long time.The probe will read the temp and only come on at the temp you set it to.I think I have mine set at 88 and it only comes on when I push it hard.
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post #4589 of 4872 Old 08-03-2019, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by stevemilleresq View Post
New to the Marantz fold with an SR7012 (thank you Accessories4less), I’ve read the roughly 4600 posts here, the recommendation is for the AC Infinity cooling fan, at the end of the day does their fan provide better cooling than a 17” laptop fan place above the AVR to pull air out?

Thoughts?

Thanks.
The owner's manual makes zero mention of needing a fan and if you follow their placement guidelines you shouldn't need one. [Enclosed cabinets is a different story.] Think about it: the vast majority of consumers don't use one, nor does Marantz suggest owners should buy one, yet they can successfully market this unit with a 3 year warranty. How can that be possible? So let's look at the possibilities:

A
. Amplifiers aren't harmed by heat in their first, second, or third year but then they blow up in their 4th year or later.
B. Marantz is brand new to making amplifiers and doesn't know that they get hot, which kills them, so that's why the manual doesn't mention using an after market fan and they, Marantz, should expect to have to cover a huge amount of warranty repairs due to their blunder. Maybe they'll learn their lesson and suggest fans or reduce the warranty in the future, since they are brand new to this stuff.
C. Amplifiers, much like a car's engine compartment, get hot but they are built to withstand it.

Occum's Razor my friend.

Psst: Marantz has been in business since 1953 and know their stuff.

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post #4590 of 4872 Old 08-03-2019, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevemilleresq View Post
New to the Marantz fold with an SR7012 (thank you Accessories4less), I’ve read the roughly 4600 posts here, the recommendation is for the AC Infinity cooling fan, at the end of the day does their fan provide better cooling than a 17” laptop fan place above the AVR to pull air out?

Thoughts?

Thanks.
I bought the AC Infinity rear exhaust device and sent it back. On quieter content, I could hear it from inside a cabinet (with an open back) it at its lowest setting from 12 feet away.

I wound up using three 12 volt computer case cooling fans and a 7 or 8 volt wall wart, and have had zero issues. At the lowered voltage, the fans are inaudible. I tilted them up about 30 degrees using long bolts on one side, the tilt making them act as exhausts out the back, and used one of those inexpensive ($10) remote temperature gauges to determine the hottest spot on the cover, and placed the assembly over that.

I would think a laptop-style fan (perhaps tilted up slightly) would work fine.

I do have to say, the industrial design that went into the AC Infinity unit I got was really nice. Once placed on top of my Denon 4300, it looked like it was always there - matched perfectly for size and style. If the 4300 was out in the open, I would not have used those computer fans.
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