*Official* Marantz 2017 NR1508/1608, SR5012/6012/7012 owner's thread - Page 160 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4771 of 4839 Old 10-11-2019, 07:32 PM
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I am the proud owner of an sr6012. I have had no luck getting ARC to lip sync correctly ( video arrives before audio) so I have decided to connect to the AVR first and out to TV. I have noticed the video is not as clean as it was when connected direct to TV from the cable box with HDMI. Can anyone suggest optimal settings on the Marantz for a cleaner video output? Or what about best settings to get the lip sync working through ARC correctly. Thanks for any help.

Sony XBR900F/Marantz SR6012/Pioneer Andrew Jones SP-FS52-LR/Pioneer SP-C22-center/Energy Take classic 5.1 Height and Subwoofer/Polk T15 surround-LR/Apple TV 4K/Xbox one x

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post #4772 of 4839 Old 10-16-2019, 01:31 PM
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I cannot for the life of me get discrete atmos to output from 6012. This includes a fire stick 4k hooked directly, Nvidia shield and Panasonic ub820. The Blu-ray is outputting bitstream secondary audio off. The only option I get is Dolby digital +Dolby surround. I've changed the amp assign to every option, moved from heights to Dolby Atmos no luck. I'm missing something stupid I just know it .....
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post #4773 of 4839 Old 10-16-2019, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by quicksilver View Post
I cannot for the life of me get discrete atmos to output from 6012. This includes a fire stick 4k hooked directly, Nvidia shield and Panasonic ub820. The Blu-ray is outputting bitstream secondary audio off. The only option I get is Dolby digital +Dolby surround. I've changed the amp assign to every option, moved from heights to Dolby Atmos no luck. I'm missing something stupid I just know it .....
If you have SB or Top/Height speakers configured and the source is set to "bitstream" with Secondary Audio or Mix disabled, and you have the Atmos track selected on the source (as it's not always the default), then you should see Atmos as a surround sound option.
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post #4774 of 4839 Old 10-16-2019, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
If you have SB or Top/Height speakers configured and the source is set to "bitstream" with Secondary Audio or Mix disabled, and you have the Atmos track selected on the source (as it's not always the default), then you should see Atmos as a surround sound option.
Ok, now what? Height speakers configured and Pana UB820 set to bitstream, secondary disabled, Spider-man Far From Home Atmos track selected. Still nothing? I literally just had my LGC8 calibrated by ChadB today and he noticed it wasn't outputting discrete Atmos. And he double checked all settings as well. The Fire stick 4K is connected directly HDMI to the Marantz and the porthole does say "Atmos/surround" when playing Netflix but info button only says Dolby Digital +Dolby surround. Same goes for the Netflix app from LG TV using ARC. Why would Atmos not work on all 3 sources? That's why I keep assuming its the Marantz? I thought when I first purchased "Dolby Digital +dolby surround" WAS discrete Atmos until ChadB corrected me today. So it hasn't worked since day one. But what the heck am I missing?! It can't be defective? That's an odd defect to NOT play Atmos but everything else lol?
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post #4775 of 4839 Old 10-16-2019, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by quicksilver View Post
Ok, now what? Height speakers configured and Pana UB820 set to bitstream, secondary disabled, Spider-man Far From Home Atmos track selected. Still nothing? I literally just had my LGC8 calibrated by ChadB today and he noticed it wasn't outputting discrete Atmos. And he double checked all settings as well. The Fire stick 4K is connected directly HDMI to the Marantz and the porthole does say "Atmos/surround" when playing Netflix but info button only says Dolby Digital +Dolby surround. Same goes for the Netflix app from LG TV using ARC. Why would Atmos not work on all 3 sources? That's why I keep assuming its the Marantz? I thought when I first purchased "Dolby Digital +dolby surround" WAS discrete Atmos until ChadB corrected me today. So it hasn't worked since day one. But what the heck am I missing?! It can't be defective? That's an odd defect to NOT play Atmos but everything else lol?
Nevermind, Netflix on the LG OLED to Marantz using ARC does OUTPUT Atmos! So at least I can rule out the Marantz. Something's up with the Panasonic.
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post #4776 of 4839 Old 10-17-2019, 10:39 AM
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Speaker Trim Levels

jd-As always thanks for sharing your exhaustive knowledge of these products.

Just to confirm-My front L&R floor standers are showing 5db lower than my center and surround channels so if I want to raise my floor standing towers to match the center and surround channels I simply go into the speaker levels which has the tones and raise the front left and right channels from the current setting of -3.5 to +1.5 and it will raise the level by 5db and theoretically be the same volume as the rest of the system.

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post #4777 of 4839 Old 10-17-2019, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by PG55 View Post
jd-As always thanks for sharing your exhaustive knowledge of these products.

Just to confirm-My front L&R floor standers are showing 5db lower than my center and surround channels so if I want to raise my floor standing towers to match the center and surround channels I simply go into the speaker levels which has the tones and raise the front left and right channels from the current setting of -3.5 to +1.5 and it will raise the level by 5db and theoretically be the same volume as the rest of the system.

Thanks,
PG55
The L&R are louder at the MLP, or the Center is blocked, or smaller, or whatever. That is why Audyssey set the levels at -3.5. They are already set at the same volume as the rest.

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post #4778 of 4839 Old 10-17-2019, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
The L&R are louder at the MLP, or the Center is blocked, or smaller, or whatever. That is why Audyssey set the levels at -3.5. They are already set at the same volume as the rest.
Actually the L&R are lower at the MLP. I noticed this after calibrating with Audyssey so I used the Axiom calibration disc test tones and they showed the front left and right to be 69-70 db and the center and surrounds at 75db. Audyssey currently has my front left and right set at -3.5 db so if I understand correctly I would simply adjust it manually to about 0 to +2 and all channels should be at 75db.

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post #4779 of 4839 Old 10-17-2019, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by PG55 View Post
Actually the L&R are lower at the MLP. I noticed this after calibrating with Audyssey so I used the Axiom calibration disc test tones and they showed the front left and right to be 69-70 db and the center and surrounds at 75db. Audyssey currently has my front left and right set at -3.5 db so if I understand correctly I would simply adjust it manually to about 0 to +2 and all channels should be at 75db.
Adjusting manually after calibration pretty much defeats the purpose of using Audyssey. Maybe something changed, either in your layout or your room. Re-run Audyssey.
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post #4780 of 4839 Old 10-17-2019, 01:05 PM
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*Official* Marantz 2017 NR1508/1608, SR5012/6012/7012 owner's thread



This is what audessey did not all exactly the same. I only changed the crossover manually to 80..
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post #4781 of 4839 Old 10-17-2019, 01:29 PM
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This is what audessey did not all exactly the same. I only changed the crossover manually to 80..
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Huh? Is there a question there?
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post #4782 of 4839 Old 10-17-2019, 01:34 PM
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Lol. No someone was mentioning changing his speaker settings i believe to all the same . The last poster mention defeats purpose of audessey.. unless i just read compley wrong. If so appologies


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post #4783 of 4839 Old 10-17-2019, 01:39 PM
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Lol. No someone was mentioning changing his speaker settings i believe to all the same . The last poster mention defeats purpose of audessey.. unless i just read compley wrong. If so appologies


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Ah. Always helps to quote the post in which you are responding to so your post makes more sense.
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post #4784 of 4839 Old 10-17-2019, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Ah. Always helps to quote the post in which you are responding to so your post makes more sense.

Absolutely correct usually do .. brain .....


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post #4785 of 4839 Old 10-17-2019, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by PG55 View Post
Actually the L&R are lower at the MLP. I noticed this after calibrating with Audyssey so I used the Axiom calibration disc test tones and they showed the front left and right to be 69-70 db and the center and surrounds at 75db. Audyssey currently has my front left and right set at -3.5 db so if I understand correctly I would simply adjust it manually to about 0 to +2 and all channels should be at 75db.
It's your setup. Adjust the speaker/sub volume settings to suit your preference, regardless of what they were set to after running Audyssey.
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post #4786 of 4839 Old 10-20-2019, 06:03 PM
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I have a Marantz 5012 and I live in Greece.Does HEOS support Amazon music HD?I read on Amazon website Amazon is available on HEOS but I dont see it.
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post #4787 of 4839 Old 10-20-2019, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phldavisg View Post
I am the proud owner of an sr6012. I have had no luck getting ARC to lip sync correctly ( video arrives before audio) so I have decided to connect to the AVR first and out to TV. I have noticed the video is not as clean as it was when connected direct to TV from the cable box with HDMI. Can anyone suggest optimal settings on the Marantz for a cleaner video output? Or what about best settings to get the lip sync working through ARC correctly. Thanks for any help.
I struggled with this, as well. The AVR only has audio delay. I mostly solved it by using optical in for the audio and HDMI for the video.

bob
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post #4788 of 4839 Old 10-20-2019, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by zerocool7545 View Post
I have a Marantz 5012 and I live in Greece.Does HEOS support Amazon music HD?I read on Amazon website Amazon is available on HEOS but I dont see it.

Yes
I just tried an ultra hd track from amazon hd


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post #4789 of 4839 Old 10-21-2019, 05:41 AM
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Cool Humming Noise

Yesterday was a bad day. First my Panasonic Plasma suddenly turned off then back on and locked on the SmartViera screen. I hooked up a spare Vizio (crappy picture compared to the Panasonic) and we were back in business. Unfortunately a humming noise is now coming from the speakers. I traced it to the HDMI connection betweead n my 3 month old TiVO Bolt and Marantz 7012 AVR. Its a new noise, never had it before...if I disconnect the HDMI cable from either the TiVO or the 7012, the new humming disappears. I seem to vaguely recall I've had this in the distant past and some people on here have had the noise......

Does anyone have a suggested solution? The HDMI cable is new and came witht he TiVO...change it out?

Thank you,
Scott

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post #4790 of 4839 Old 10-21-2019, 06:43 AM
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Yesterday was a bad day. First my Panasonic Plasma suddenly turned off then back on and locked on the SmartViera screen. I hooked up a spare Vizio (crappy picture compared to the Panasonic) and we were back in business. Unfortunately a humming noise is now coming from the speakers. I traced it to the HDMI connection betweead n my 3 month old TiVO Bolt and Marantz 7012 AVR. Its a new noise, never had it before...if I disconnect the HDMI cable from either the TiVO or the 7012, the new humming disappears. I seem to vaguely recall I've had this in the distant past and some people on here have had the noise......

Does anyone have a suggested solution? The HDMI cable is new and came witht he TiVO...change it out?

Thank you,
Scott
Change the cable. If still no joy, then do a "soft reset" of the AVR by powering off the AVR and TiVo, unplugging their power cables and the "new" HDMI cable that connects them for 10 minutes.
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post #4791 of 4839 Old 10-21-2019, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post
Yesterday was a bad day. First my Panasonic Plasma suddenly turned off then back on and locked on the SmartViera screen. I hooked up a spare Vizio (crappy picture compared to the Panasonic) and we were back in business. Unfortunately a humming noise is now coming from the speakers. I traced it to the HDMI connection betweead n my 3 month old TiVO Bolt and Marantz 7012 AVR. Its a new noise, never had it before...if I disconnect the HDMI cable from either the TiVO or the 7012, the new humming disappears. I seem to vaguely recall I've had this in the distant past and some people on here have had the noise......

Does anyone have a suggested solution? The HDMI cable is new and came witht he TiVO...change it out?

Thank you,
Scott

If you disconnect the incoming cable feed from the Bolt, does the hum stop?


If so, search Amazon for "cable tv ground isolation transformer" and pick one to use.


Alternately, you could try an inexpensive cable amplifier on the incoming feed, but those don't always isolate the ground.
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post #4792 of 4839 Old 10-21-2019, 01:40 PM
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Cool

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Originally Posted by DougDingle View Post
If you disconnect the incoming cable feed from the Bolt, does the hum stop?


If so, search Amazon for "cable tv ground isolation transformer" and pick one to use.


Alternately, you could try an inexpensive cable amplifier on the incoming feed, but those don't always isolate the ground.
Yes, the hum stops when I disconnect the incoming cable feed to the Bolt. And it also stops if I disconnect the HDMI cable going from the Bolt to the AVR.

So, this is a "ground loop," right? Or the cable feed isnt grounded properly? Why would it start all of a sudden and be simultenous with my Panasonic TV turning off, turning back on and locking?

But thank you. I will look into the device you recommended...

Scott

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post #4793 of 4839 Old 10-21-2019, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post
Yes, the hum stops when I disconnect the incoming cable feed to the Bolt. And it also stops if I disconnect the HDMI cable going from the Bolt to the AVR.

So, this is a "ground loop," right? Or the cable feed isnt grounded properly? Why would it start all of a sudden and be simultenous with my Panasonic TV turning off, turning back on and locking?

But thank you. I will look into the device you recommended...

Scott

Classic ground loop, caused by some change somewhere, usually the cable feed having a ground disconnected, or corroded, or something completely different.



Perhaps the Panasonic being plugged in and hooked into the system was supplying the necessary low resistance ground, and now that you've taken it out of the system, it no longer is.



In any case, a decent ground isolator on the incoming cable feed should fix it. Get one with an operating frequency range of 5 - 1,000 MHz so you get all your channels, especially if you are using a Tuning Adapter with the TiVo.
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post #4794 of 4839 Old 10-22-2019, 02:46 PM
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Can someone expand on the quote below?

Note: Regardless of whether using a 9CH or 11CH configuration, if you want to use the same configuration for both Atmos and DTS:X, so you don't have to reload a new Audyssey EQ each time, you must use Layout = "Front Height + Rear Height."

I'm not sure what is meant by needing to rerun audyssey between DTS-X and Dolby Atmos if one doesn't have height speakers at front heights and front rears. I am using a Marantz SR-6012, with my heights set up on my ceiling. So I have the 6012 configured as Top Front and Top Rear. And while I only have one movie with DTS-X at the moment. It seemed to be ok with me. I thought DTS-X and Atmos setups were compatible. I thought it was Auro 3d that is incompatible. Is my setup wrong?

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post #4795 of 4839 Old 10-22-2019, 03:01 PM
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Can someone expand on the quote below?

Note: Regardless of whether using a 9CH or 11CH configuration, if you want to use the same configuration for both Atmos and DTS:X, so you don't have to reload a new Audyssey EQ each time, you must use Layout = "Front Height + Rear Height." ...

Where did you find that quote?
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post #4796 of 4839 Old 10-22-2019, 03:25 PM
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Can someone expand on the quote below?

Note: Regardless of whether using a 9CH or 11CH configuration, if you want to use the same configuration for both Atmos and DTS:X, so you don't have to reload a new Audyssey EQ each time, you must use Layout = "Front Height + Rear Height."

I'm not sure what is meant by needing to rerun audyssey between DTS-X and Dolby Atmos if one doesn't have height speakers at front heights and front rears. I am using a Marantz SR-6012, with my heights set up on my ceiling. So I have the 6012 configured as Top Front and Top Rear. And while I only have one movie with DTS-X at the moment. It seemed to be ok with me. I thought DTS-X and Atmos setups were compatible. I thought it was Auro 3d that is incompatible. Is my setup wrong?
I don't like the words "incompatible" even with Auro-3D as the net result are really only slight shifts in some places for rear/height objects that have no reference to begin with. I think Auro should have just let their setup work with standard Atmos setups to begin with and very few would have been the wiser for it as DTS has (as it claims to be compatible with BOTH setups and it's typically channel-based just like Auro-3D in nearly all the Blu-Rays out there. What makes it compatible/incompatible? NOTHING. It's a fruit salad mish-mash where a consumer wouldn't know the difference either way since there are no visual references to sound behind you to tell where they are "supposed to be". This applies to Atmos too because an object in 5.1.4 will be much closer to your seating location than the same soundtrack played back in the same room with 7.1.4 enabled and the rear speakers further back than the side surrounds. I think Auro/Atmos confusion is over nothing and DTS simply IGNORES BOTH and says it "works" with both (well it does; that doesn't mean it's "optimal" for both, but good luck telling which version is better/worse without a frame of reference for accuracy as I indicated.

Meanwhile, there are those "type" of people (anal retentive?) that simply MUST do things as they are told 100% even if it makes little or no difference whatsoever. In other words, if DTS shows their "height" speakers in pictures or diagrams at 45 degrees and their "tops" at 60 degrees while Atmos shows their "height" speakers at 30 degrees and their "tops" speakers at 45 degrees, the anal rentitive type will go out of his way to use 45 degrees no matter how impractical in the room and THEN store two difference setups so that Atmos is set to use "tops" and DTS playback uses "heights" so that they MATCH the picture/diagram relative to the format. Thus, if they watch an Atmos movie, they use their Audyssey "tops" calibration with it set to decode to tops speakers. If they want to watch a DTS:X movie, they MUST (the impulse to do so is unrelenting in such people) then load the Audyssey setting that's calibrated for the "heights" configuration instead as DTS:X movies can only be watched in "heights" or it would be at the wrong ANGLE for the overhead speakers!!! (all because some photo/diagram shows this to be the angle used when they recorded the movie at the "heights" setting for DTS.

Now a "normal" person would just choose heights or tops (whichever sounded best to them overall) and LEAVE IT THERE for BOTH formats (diagram be damned) as the end result is only slightly shifted anyway and who can say just by listening whether it's "right" or "accurate" without a visual reference to compare the sound location to the actual object position ("where it's supposed to be")? You cannot, really. But these people claim they KNOW it's not right because that diagram said so! And they can't live with that so they spend countless minutes/hours every year loading these configuration changes so they can use "tops" with Atmos and "heights" with DTS:X with the SAME SPEAKERS mounted at 45 degrees (again because speakers at 45 degrees are called "Tops" by Atmos and supposedly "Heights" by DTS. DTS has said they wish they never published diagrams showing the positions because these people make their lives miserable and it doesn't freaking matter one iota in their minds (remember they want you to at least "believe" that DTS works with Auro-3D and Atmos layouts by sheer magic when in reality, they simply don't think surround images shifted slightly forward or backward or even inward/outward a few feet is a big deal whereas the anal retentive folk cannot live with knowing that the baseball flying overhead is supposed to be 10 feet into their room when DTS places it only 8 feet into the room since its expected to be at the 60 degree mark, not the 45 degree one with DTS engaged.... (and vice versa if you used Atmos instead)

I realize that's a lot to say, but it's hard to get across the thinking versus the reality in this situation. The Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince movie comes to mind. They are supposed to make this potion to win the "luck potion" if they make it perfectly. The problem is everyone's book says how to make it one way and Harry Potter's "used" book has notes in telling how to make it BETTER (or some may say perfectly or correctly) or perhaps more likely, it's at least EASIER for a student to get it right that way (e.g. by crushing the beans instead of cutting them, for example when they're darn hard to cut). Hermione refuses to crush her bean because, "NO, it clearly says 'cut" in the instructions and she MUST follow directions precisely or she can't live with herself as a "bad student" for not doing EXACTLY as she was told. Of course, it turns out that Harry's potion comes out perfect and everyone else's comes out like crap. But hey, at least they followed directions! Here, it's more like that's a LOT of extra work for "nothing" to store two sets of settings just because of a 15 degree angle difference that is literalyl meaningless in a real room as there is no visual reference for where the sound is supposed to be in terms of distance into the room and by using different size rooms and different speaker configurations (side versus side plus rear for example), you're changing those distances REGARDLESS so it's 100% MEANINGLESS. But you CANNOT get that across to the "Herminones" of the world because they must follow the diagram precisely no matter how miserable the end result might be in practice!



Personally, I use "height" settings for everything and have the speakers at 30/110 (front mid) and put the rear heights where they should be symmetrically (there is not 150 working angle relative to the main listening position as it's in front of the center point of the room. That means it MUST be greater than 150 and is more like 167. But since I use multiple rows, it must be symmetrical for all positions, not just one row and thus the speakers should try to be evenly placed across the room as much as possible (e.g. side surround and top middle is at the mid-point of the room and front height and rear height are in the same positions at the end of the room and the rows adjusted accordingly from that with front wide and side surround #2 inserted at mid-points between rows to the greatest extent practical (pulled back slightly if seating won't allow it, etc.) The extra front wides and side surround #2 speakers are matrixed/arrayed so that phantom positions "seem" to be in the correct positions for all seating, but pulls towards those points and can be adjusted via the mixer to get them as precise as desired. Adding "top middle" (which I put in the surround height location as there's a steel beam preventing any easy way to have "ceiling" speakers there) bridges the angles and creates a cohesive overhead sound field regardless of which row someone sits in here. I use "height" settings and extract to middle and use Audyssey with matrixed speakers turned ON so that the overall soundfield arriving at the main seat is flat as possible, not just the single speaker since all are on in practice. REW graphs show a flatter soundfield in matrixed mode as a result (typically +/- 3dB from 20Hz to 20kHz with most of it less than that). I don't hear any sound oddities between Auro-3D, DTS:X and Dolby Atmos.

I can also shrink Atmos down to 5.1.4 and extend Auro-3D up to 9.1.6 (rear beds don't function in Auro-3D, but surround #2 does as it's matrixed). Surprisingly or not surprisingly, Blade Runner 2049 in Dolby Atmos played as 5.1.4 instead of 7.1.6 (using first half of the room only) sounds almost EXACTLY like the Auro-3D version of Blade Runner 2049 does in the same room using the same speakers played back as 5.1.4. Similarly, expanding the Auro-3D version (using Scatmos and matrixing) to 9.1.6 sounds reasonably similar to 11.1.6 in Atmos (minus the final rear bed speakers, which if I wanted to improve slightly I could copy from the side surrounds as an array mix in that mode as well, but I'd need a speaker selector and mixer added to do so and have to push a few more buttons). As the rear seat alone is the only one affected very much (other than rear bed sounds not going back quite as far for the middle row), they sound otherwise identical. Since the Auro-3D track is MADE FROM the Atmos master, this really shouldn't be that shocking to find that in practice, they sound more or less the same to the extent that the speakers employed in playback match as closely as possible. Atmos in 5.1.4 sounds almost exactly like Auro-3D in 5.1.4 (Auro 9.1 configuration) and Auro expanded as far as it can be, sounds "more like" Atmos when expanded to the rear of the room with mid fill here. It is missing rear beds (folded into sides), but you could set sides to be the rear speakers and extract a mid-point like I'm doing for the heights in that situation and basically retrieve it mostly intact in the same fashion).

Basically, all the big deal about "channel" versus "objects" is a name game. You can turn a rendered 7.1.4 into 12.1.10 no problem with Neural X and DTS:X Pro as all speakers are simply spaced at mid-points between existing skeletal main channels (front/side/rear). Once Atmos is rendered into channels, there is no real functional difference save perhaps how much leakage there is between channels with "rendered" Atmos versus extracted "Neural X" in DTS:X Pro from a 7.1.4 skeleton. Even Auro-3D extra speakers are just mid-point extractions. Center height, for example is just an extra speaker extracted between front height left and front height right. You could create a "channel" for that speaker from the final Atmos rendering by putting a Pro Logic processor that extracts a "center" between the two front height channels and send it to the center height speaker. Voila. The SAME thing. The only difference is whether the guy rendering the final mixes actually USES that location for sounds or not (e.g. Auro-3D "RED TAILS" was made only for Auro-3D and so it uses that location quite a bit whereas I've noticed some Atmos movies have sound there and some do not, depending on whether one might belong there and whether the guy mixing it thought about putting a sound at that location even if it's just a "phantom" sound. Far too big of deals is made about the three formats differences when in reality, they have a LOT in common in the final rendering in real rooms at home.

I've attached my room layout diagram (not precisely exact, but gives a good idea) and speaker angles employed relative to seating locations (click on them for larger versions) for "11.1.6" using extracted top middle and matrixed front wides and surround #2 for six seats across three rows in a room that has some compromises due to an outboard fireplace and a half bathroom but is 12'x24' long. I had to leave aisle room in the middle row and avoid someone hitting their head on the projector in the center middle seat (and so it has a view of the fireplace when running so it sits slightly behind the other chair to its left) and fit a table for remotes/drinks in the front so they are not strictly symmetrical to the sides, but those are small differences in a room with a lot of extra speakers to handle off-axis seating locations. The 24' room length makes for incredible REAR sounds when used (i.e. they aren't just behind you, but WAY behind you and that bird in the Atmos "Amazing" demo flies a long way around the room. I think it probably sounds more theater-like than most home theaters due to the larger length dimension and multiple rows of seating for different vantage points).

See My Theater (Updated: Oct-19-2019) for all photos and build information on my home theater.

Build diagram and speaker angles below for 11.1.6
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Click THEATER (Updated: Nov-12-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 11-01-19)

Last edited by MagnumX; 10-22-2019 at 03:53 PM.
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post #4797 of 4839 Old 10-22-2019, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
Where did you find that quote?
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...sts-1-8-a.html

YOU ARE HERE! Life EXISTS and Identity! That the powerful play goes on and you may contribute a verse. That the powerful play goes on and YOU... may contribute a verse. ......what will your verse be?
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post #4798 of 4839 Old 10-22-2019, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxker View Post
Can someone expand on the quote below?

Note: Regardless of whether using a 9CH or 11CH configuration, if you want to use the same configuration for both Atmos and DTS:X, so you don't have to reload a new Audyssey EQ each time, you must use Layout = "Front Height + Rear Height."
The quote was copied (incorrectly) from the 2018 Denon thread in reference to expanding the X4500H which uses Auro 3d. It does not apply to the X3600H expansion as it does not feature Auro 3D.
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post #4799 of 4839 Old 10-22-2019, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The quote was copied (incorrectly) from the 2018 Denon thread in reference to expanding the X4500H which uses Auro 3d. It does not apply to the X3600H expansion as it does not feature Auro 3D.
I was mostly focusing closely on:if you want to use the same configuration for both Atmos and DTS:X, so you don't have to reload a new Audyssey EQ each time, you must use Layout = "Front Height + Rear Height. Maybe I was looking at it wrong. There's a similar quote in the 2018 denon model thread, although that quote says if you want to use the same configuration across all three formats where as the 2019 quote just say for both atmos and Dts:x. I think that's what got me.

YOU ARE HERE! Life EXISTS and Identity! That the powerful play goes on and you may contribute a verse. That the powerful play goes on and YOU... may contribute a verse. ......what will your verse be?
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post #4800 of 4839 Old 10-23-2019, 07:07 AM
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by DougDingle View Post
Classic ground loop, caused by some change somewhere, usually the cable feed having a ground disconnected, or corroded, or something completely different.



Perhaps the Panasonic being plugged in and hooked into the system was supplying the necessary low resistance ground, and now that you've taken it out of the system, it no longer is.



In any case, a decent ground isolator on the incoming cable feed should fix it. Get one with an operating frequency range of 5 - 1,000 MHz so you get all your channels, especially if you are using a Tuning Adapter with the TiVo.
THIS WORKED! The hum is gone! Thank you Doug Dingle!
This is the device I installed:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HOWEVER, last night, I couldnt stream any movies from NetFlix or PrimeVideo! Everything else worked flawlessly. So, knowing the ground loop transformer was the only change to the system, I removed and STILL couldnt stream movies. DAMN. I cant see how the transformer could be to blame tho so I continue to trouble shoot the new issue.

Panasonic 2013 55VT60
Marantz SR-5012 AVR
B&W 805 Speakers
Velodyne 10" Sub
TiVO Premiere
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