*Official* Marantz 2017 NR1508/1608, SR5012/6012/7012 owner's thread - Page 165 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4921 of 4961 Old 01-07-2020, 10:25 AM
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^ Maybe you could mod it?
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post #4922 of 4961 Old 01-07-2020, 11:04 AM
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That seems rather risky 😳😅

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post #4923 of 4961 Old 01-07-2020, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVTimme View Post
Hi! I can’t turn on the blue ring on the 6012? I tried holding the dimmer button on but it doesn’t work
Only the AVR/AVP 7000/8000 series feature the blue ring.
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post #4924 of 4961 Old 01-08-2020, 03:13 PM
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Want that blue ring 😢😢

Living Room: Marantz SR6012 - KEF LS50 - SVS SB16 Ultra - HECO On wall - LG C8
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post #4925 of 4961 Old 01-08-2020, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by AVTimme View Post
Want that blue ring 😢😢
Not sure how many other people it applies to but on my Windows 10 PC, using Firefox as my browser, your emoticon appears as random gibberish, sort of like this without the spaces: & # x1f 6 22 ;&#x 1f62 2;

Does anyone know how I can see it without manually doing a web search for the string each time?
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post #4926 of 4961 Old 01-08-2020, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Not sure how many other people it applies to but on my Windows 10 PC, using Firefox as my browser, your emoticon appears as random gibberish, sort of like this without the spaces: & # x1f 6 22 ;&#x 1f62 2;

Does anyone know how I can see it without manually doing a web search for the string each time?
Same for me using EDGE so likely for everyone. Not worrying about it.
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post #4927 of 4961 Old 01-08-2020, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Same for me using EDGE so likely for everyone. Not worrying about it.
Not sure but maybe other people using cellphones may be seeing it?
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post #4928 of 4961 Old 01-09-2020, 05:14 AM
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Hi everyone,

I have an NR1508 width Q Acoustics Q3050 (the other speakers and sw are not important for this question, I think) and am having problems with sibilance that are driving me crazy. When I listen to Spotify Connect (even through a hdmi-connected mediaplayer, or my Rega p1 turntable) in stereo, I'm getting quite a lot of sibilance, even on low volume. It's like the high frequencies are a bit exaggerated, and it gets a bit tiring to listen to after a while. Using Audyssey (calibrated properly following all the "rules" from the Audyssey thread FAQ) or switching to Pure or Pure Direct doesn't have any noticeable impact on this.

Both my brother and my dad have Q3050 (one pair driven by a Yamaha AVR and one with a H/K stereo amp) and they sound amazing at both places, so I'm figuring my Marantz is the culprit here. Is the AVR and these specific speakers just a bad match?

Is there anything that I could try to mitigate this? Does anyone happen to have this combo of AVR and speakers, and is having different results than me?

I would very much appreciate any input on this. Thank you!

Edit: Just wanted to add that music without too much high frequencies sounds AMAZING! So basically the entire band, except for the part that produces "female sss sounds and like drum cymbals" (I really don't know how to explain this any better) sounds superb.

Last edited by danielcrk; 01-09-2020 at 01:18 PM.
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post #4929 of 4961 Old 01-09-2020, 07:32 AM
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Is there a simply way to keep the DEQ offset level to the input source? I won’t 0db off set for my media player input and 15db offset for internet radio and HEOS

Or is this automatically saved just by entering a offset level for each input?

Living Room: Marantz SR6012 - KEF LS50 - SVS SB16 Ultra - HECO On wall - LG C8
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post #4930 of 4961 Old 01-09-2020, 07:50 AM
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Sorry for my question. I just realized the offset level is saved in each input source

Good 🙂

Living Room: Marantz SR6012 - KEF LS50 - SVS SB16 Ultra - HECO On wall - LG C8
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post #4931 of 4961 Old 01-09-2020, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielcrk View Post
Hi everyone,

I have an NR1508 width Q Acoustics Q3050 (the other speakers and sw are not important for this question, I think) and am having problems with sibilance that are driving me crazy. When I listen to Spotify Connect (or even my Rega p1 turntable) in stereo, I'm getting quite a lot of sibilance, even on low volume. It's like the high frequencies are a bit exaggerated, and it gets a bit tiring to listen to after a while. Using Audyssey (calibrated properly following all the "rules" from the Audyssey thread FAQ) or switching to Pure or Pure Direct doesn't have any noticeable impact on this.

Both my brother and my dad have Q3050 (one pair driven by a Yamaha AVR and one with a H/K stereo amp) and they sound amazing at both places, so I'm figuring my Marantz is the culprit here. Is the AVR and these specific speakers just a bad match?

Is there anything that I could try to mitigate this? Does anyone happen to have this combo of AVR and speakers, and is having different results than me?

I would very much appreciate any input on this. Thank you!

Edit: Just wanted to add that music without too much high frequencies sounds AMAZING! So basically the entire band, except for the part that produces "female sss sounds and like drum cymbals" (I really don't know how to explain this any better) sounds superb.
Sibilance is usually in transducers, sometimes because they are faulty: phono cartridges, headphones, microphones, speakers. You mention the problem with the turntable but don't mention what particular cartridge it is nor if this problem occurs with other sources. Does it? What's the cartridge? How do you clean the stylus? Are you sure it is on all records, not just one recording?

Last edited by m. zillch; 01-09-2020 at 10:18 AM.
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post #4932 of 4961 Old 01-09-2020, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Sibilance is usually in transducers, sometimes because they are faulty: phono cartridges, headphones, microphones, speakers. You mention the problem with the turntable but don't mention what particular cartridge it is nor if this problem occurs with other sources. Does it? What's the cartridge? How do you clean the stylus? Are you sure it is on all records, not just one recording?
The problem is not related to the turntable, I'm hearing the exact samme issue when using the built-in Spotify Connect, like I mentioned. I will try the same music through a media player and hdmi, but I'm quite confident the sources aren't the problem.

Edit: I've now listened to same music through Spotify Connect and through a media player connect with hdmi, and can't hear any difference. Both feel a bit more "shrill" than I would like to.

I guess that I could disable MultiEQ and play around with the manual EQ, and I also guess that is probably going to be my only option, but it would be such a shame to miss out on Audyssey.

Last edited by danielcrk; 01-09-2020 at 01:21 PM.
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post #4933 of 4961 Old 01-09-2020, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielcrk View Post
The problem is not related to the turntable, I'm hearing the exact samme issue when using the built-in Spotify Connect, like I mentioned. I will try the same music through a media player and hdmi, but I'm quite confident the sources aren't the problem.

Edit: I've now listened to same music through Spotify Connect and through a media player connect with hdmi, and can't hear any difference. Both feel a bit more "shrill" than I would like to.

I guess that I could disable MultiEQ and play around with the manual EQ, and I also guess that is probably going to be my only option, but it would be such a shame to miss out on Audyssey.
How about trying another specimen of an Audyssey microphone. The one you've used may be faulty; it might not have responded correctly to those frequencies so Audyssey tried to compensate.

Last edited by Fruit; 01-09-2020 at 02:10 PM.
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post #4934 of 4961 Old 01-09-2020, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielcrk View Post
The problem is not related to the turntable, I'm hearing the exact samme issue when using the built-in Spotify Connect, like I mentioned. I will try the same music through a media player and hdmi, but I'm quite confident the sources aren't the problem.

Edit: I've now listened to same music through Spotify Connect and through a media player connect with hdmi, and can't hear any difference. Both feel a bit more "shrill" than I would like to.

I guess that I could disable MultiEQ and play around with the manual EQ, and I also guess that is probably going to be my only option, but it would be such a shame to miss out on Audyssey.
I got increased sibilance to the point it was objectionable the first time I ran Audyssey (compared to with it off). Trying again with the toe-in changed a bit on the front speakers (forget if i toed them in more or less, though) and moving the mic around a bit more seemed to get rid of most of it (or if I only ran Audyssey up to 250Hz in the editor). But if you get the increased sibilance with Audyssey turned off, it's likely something with the speaker and/or room having too much energy around the 5kHz-8kHz band (sometimes a bit higher depending on sensitive your ears are). Also, if you have the Audyssey editor, you can actually tailor the curve to drop a bit in that region to get rid of some or most of it. Adjusting the speakers and/or some absorption room treatments might help a little too if the room is very bright sounding.

Click THEATER (Updated: Nov-12-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 11-01-19)
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post #4935 of 4961 Old 01-09-2020, 02:33 PM
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Any point in re running audessey? Maybe something wasnt right the first time around.. not going to hurt to re run


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post #4936 of 4961 Old 01-09-2020, 02:44 PM
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Any point in re running audessey? Maybe something wasnt right the first time around.. not going to hurt to re run


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It helped here, but I also changed the toe-in a bit.

Click THEATER (Updated: Nov-12-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 11-01-19)
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post #4937 of 4961 Old 01-10-2020, 06:22 AM
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I really appreciate your input guys!

Re-reading my initial post, I realise I might have gotten a bit hung up on sibilance. The sound is just a bit brighter than I would like, and I think that the sibilance is just a result of that. Also, I might be over-exaggerating when I say "sibilance" as it's really relative, I've got nothing to compare to. I don't want to give the impression that the situation is horrible (then toeing the speakers etc would hardly help), I just want to smoothen the high frequencies out a bit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fruit View Post
How about trying another specimen of an Audyssey microphone. The one you've used may be faulty; it might not have responded correctly to those frequencies so Audyssey tried to compensate.
Yes, that might be worth a shot, if I can find one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnumX View Post
I got increased sibilance to the point it was objectionable the first time I ran Audyssey (compared to with it off). Trying again with the toe-in changed a bit on the front speakers (forget if i toed them in more or less, though) and moving the mic around a bit more seemed to get rid of most of it (or if I only ran Audyssey up to 250Hz in the editor). But if you get the increased sibilance with Audyssey turned off, it's likely something with the speaker and/or room having too much energy around the 5kHz-8kHz band (sometimes a bit higher depending on sensitive your ears are). Also, if you have the Audyssey editor, you can actually tailor the curve to drop a bit in that region to get rid of some or most of it. Adjusting the speakers and/or some absorption room treatments might help a little too if the room is very bright sounding.
I've re-run Audyssey a few times, but didn't actually change that much in-between takes. Adjusting the toeing of the speakers sounds interesting, it didn't even cross my mind that it could have an effect on this.

But regarding your last point about the Audyssey editor, please tell me if I'm understanding things correctly:
The NR1508 has a manual EQ that could probably help me out here, but in order to engage it, MultiEQ has to be disabled, together with DynamicEQ (which I really enjoy when listening at low volumes). But you are saying there is away to actually tweak MultiEQ itself, lowering the 5kHz-8kHz (or there around) band a bit?

When you say "the Audyssey editor", do you refer to the iOS app "Audyssey MultiEQ Editor app"? The app description contains a list of supported AVRs and NR1508 unfortunately doesn't seem supported. Is there another way of editing the curve on the NR1508?

Again, thank you for helping out!


Edit: The iOS app mentions this: "Enable/Disable midrange compensation to make the sound brighter or smoother". Can "midrange compensation" in any way be related to my problem?

Last edited by danielcrk; 01-10-2020 at 06:26 AM.
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post #4938 of 4961 Old 01-10-2020, 07:02 AM
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I was referring to the app editor that apparently isn't available for your AVR.

Click THEATER (Updated: Nov-12-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 11-01-19)
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post #4939 of 4961 Old 01-10-2020, 02:04 PM
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So I re-did the Audyssey setup again, this time angling my fronts straight towards the microphone (they were just slightly angled towards the center before, but almost 45 deg after adjusting), and at this point I really don't know anymore if I'm imagining things or not, but I believe that it might have taken the edge off, the sounds seems to be a little bit warmer now. I've returned the speakers to their old angle and will spend some more time listening.
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post #4940 of 4961 Old 01-10-2020, 05:05 PM
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I recently tried to use Bluetooth with my NR1508 and found that it would start to cut out/stutter almost immediately and would not recover. This is with the transmitting device sitting an inch away from the AVR... I generally find the vagaries of Bluetooth to be infuriating, but this is the worst case I have encountered. Anything that can tweaked on the AVR side? Have there been any Marantz firmware updates that specifically address this issue? Its hard to find release notes.


EDIT: I decided to try a firmware update and it seems to have worked; played music for 30 minutes with no interruptions. As a bonus, it enabled AirPlay so I can ignore Bluetooth altogether for compatible devices.

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post #4941 of 4961 Old 01-10-2020, 05:09 PM
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One last update: I'm was getting obsessed by this and started to listen to the same movies and music through a bunch of different devices and headphones, really focusing on the parts that I blamed my poor Marantz for being overly bright - and I was basically being a fool, in all of the cases I have been able to reproduce, the media itself was the problem. I had only been focusing on the same few songs over and over, when trying to diagnose and fix this.

Let me just give you an example: I started looking into if my "problem" was only evident in stereo or also with the different surround modes. Started Netflix and just browsed some modern shows, thinking they would have high-end audio recording (streaming and compression aside). I mainly wanted to focus on speech, as it was mainly there I heard the sibilance. So I ended up starting the show "You", and basically wanted to cry. The beginning of the first episode has a voice-over, which sounds TEEEERRIBLE. The voice sounds like it's been compressed 10 times over. I wanted to throw out both the AVR and the speakers through the window. Then I listened to the same voice-over through my iPhone and a pair of decent Sennheisers, and a huge weight was lifted off my chest - it sounded exactly the same, just as terrible. I repeated the process for a few other movies and songs that sounded bad, and of course, the same result there.

Please do me a favour and listen to the voice-over in the beginning of the first episode of "You" on Netflix, to give you an idea of what I thought my system generally sounded like.

This is basically the first time I have an audio system good enough for the source to actually matter, and I had no idea that Spotify and Netflix had releases of such a varying quality. I can't believe the difference in quality between different albums on Spotify, despite having the same bitrate. I'm guessing the poor ones were ripped at a much less bitrate to begin with.

Last edited by danielcrk; 01-10-2020 at 05:14 PM.
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post #4942 of 4961 Old 01-11-2020, 06:15 AM
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Need advice, I have recently connected my 7012 using all pre out to external amps. My issue is that the right front height and right rear height will not send sound out through the pre out. The left side heights are all fine which is really got me wondering what I have missed. Then connected directly through onboard amps and is all good. Any ideas would be appreciated


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post #4943 of 4961 Old 01-11-2020, 07:15 AM
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Need advice, I have recently connected my 7012 using all pre out to external amps. My issue is that the right front height and right rear height will not send sound out through the pre out. The left side heights are all fine which is really got me wondering what I have missed. Then connected directly through onboard amps and is all good. Any ideas would be appreciated


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Verify the issue isn't the external amp or the Front/Rear right speakers themselves by swapping the wires around.

If both the amp and speakers are confirmed working, then try doing a "Restart" and/or "soft reset" as discussed below:

1. "Restart" - set the AVR to Standby and press/hold the power ON button until "Restart" is displayed on the front panel (no loss of settings).

If no joy, then ...

2. Soft reset - set the AVR to Standby and unplug the power cord for about 10 minutes, then plug back in the power cord and turn ON (no loss of settings).
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post #4944 of 4961 Old 01-12-2020, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Verify the issue isn't the external amp or the Front/Rear right speakers themselves by swapping the wires around.



If both the amp and speakers are confirmed working, then try doing a "Restart" and/or "soft reset" as discussed below:



1. "Restart" - set the AVR to Standby and press/hold the power ON button until "Restart" is displayed on the front panel (no loss of settings).



If no joy, then ...



2. Soft reset - set the AVR to Standby and unplug the power cord for about 10 minutes, then plug back in the power cord and turn ON (no loss of settings).


Just confirmed that amp is faulty, tried another amp and works fine. Thx for the help


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post #4945 of 4961 Old 01-14-2020, 04:50 PM
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Just popped in to share an experience with you all. I recently found another pair of speakers that match what I already have so I can go to 7.3.4. As most of you know, external amplification is needed with the SR6012 to accomplish that. I was looking at used amps, new amps, the usual suspects like Outlaw, Monolith, Emotiva. I was reading reviews and asking opinions. One of the consensus was since I usually watch movies at -15 (unless Disney crap audio) I wouldn't notice much a difference. I figured the SR6012 is rated at 110 watts two channel driven the Marantz MM7025 at 140 watts two channels driven wouldn't be two much of a difference, pair well with what I have, and at $500 refurbished gentle on my pocket. I just got it today and was able to hook up my towers and have my system running in less than 15 minutes. Bought both speakers and amp Friday. Seller of speakers dropped for shipping yesterday where the amp was dropped Friday and arrived today. Popped in a CD and put the receiver in Direct Mode. That amp made a HUGE difference in my sound quality. Most notable difference was in lower frequencies at my normal volume level. My biggest disappointment is I can't return the amp unless I pay a restocking fee. I should have sucked it up, spent the money, and bought the Monolith for my base layer 7 channel. Experience and learn I guess. Maybe I can keep an eye out for MM7055 deal.

7.3.4 Setup---TV: LG OLED 65B7A, Receiver: Marantz SR-6012, External 2-channel amplifier: Marantz MM7025, Blu-Ray Player: LG UBK90, Fronts: JBL S312, Center: JBL S-Center, Surrounds: JBL S38, Surround Back: JBL S36 ,Top: JBL S36 (4), Subwoofer: 2 PSA S3000i and one PSA XS-30se
http://www.blu-ray.com/community/col...&action=hybrid
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post #4946 of 4961 Old 01-15-2020, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Joshua Chmiel View Post
Just popped in to share an experience with you all. I recently found another pair of speakers that match what I already have so I can go to 7.3.4. As most of you know, external amplification is needed with the SR6012 to accomplish that. I was looking at used amps, new amps, the usual suspects like Outlaw, Monolith, Emotiva. I was reading reviews and asking opinions. One of the consensus was since I usually watch movies at -15 (unless Disney crap audio) I wouldn't notice much a difference. I figured the SR6012 is rated at 110 watts two channel driven the Marantz MM7025 at 140 watts two channels driven wouldn't be two much of a difference, pair well with what I have, and at $500 refurbished gentle on my pocket. I just got it today and was able to hook up my towers and have my system running in less than 15 minutes. Bought both speakers and amp Friday. Seller of speakers dropped for shipping yesterday where the amp was dropped Friday and arrived today. Popped in a CD and put the receiver in Direct Mode. That amp made a HUGE difference in my sound quality. Most notable difference was in lower frequencies at my normal volume level. My biggest disappointment is I can't return the amp unless I pay a restocking fee. I should have sucked it up, spent the money, and bought the Monolith for my base layer 7 channel. Experience and learn I guess. Maybe I can keep an eye out for MM7055 deal.
The reason being, there is no bass management when using DIRECT mode, therefore your Front L/R speakers were carrying the load of a full range signal.

Enable another surround mode (ie. other than DIRECT or PURE DIRECT) with the Front L/R speakers set to SMALL/80Hz, letting your subs take on the lower frequency load, and you're less likely to notice any difference in sound quality.
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post #4947 of 4961 Old 01-15-2020, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The reason being, there is no bass management when using DIRECT mode, therefore your Front L/R speakers were carrying the load of a full range signal.

Enable another surround mode (ie. other than DIRECT or PURE DIRECT) with the Front L/R speakers set to SMALL/80Hz, letting your subs take on the lower frequency load, and you're less likely to notice any difference in sound quality.
I know this. I know what the my speakers sound like in direct mode before and now after. I tried this first to see what differences there would be. I bought the amp because I needed so I could expand my system to 11 channels. Because of the improvement I want separates now. Logic dictates to me if it sounds better and does better below 80Hz when one method is 110 watts vs 140 from the same manufacture stated specs, I will get better performance on all my speakers when I get more power. Yes I can still cross over at 80Hz but there will be more capability. Just sharing my experience so others can consider.

7.3.4 Setup---TV: LG OLED 65B7A, Receiver: Marantz SR-6012, External 2-channel amplifier: Marantz MM7025, Blu-Ray Player: LG UBK90, Fronts: JBL S312, Center: JBL S-Center, Surrounds: JBL S38, Surround Back: JBL S36 ,Top: JBL S36 (4), Subwoofer: 2 PSA S3000i and one PSA XS-30se
http://www.blu-ray.com/community/col...&action=hybrid
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post #4948 of 4961 Old 01-15-2020, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Joshua Chmiel View Post
I know this. I know what the my speakers sound like in direct mode before and now after. I tried this first to see what differences there would be. I bought the amp because I needed so I could expand my system to 11 channels. Because of the improvement I want separates now. Logic dictates to me if it sounds better and does better below 80Hz when one method is 110 watts vs 140 from the same manufacture stated specs, I will get better performance on all my speakers when I get more power. Yes I can still cross over at 80Hz but there will be more capability. Just sharing my experience so others can consider.
My point being that your observation only holds true if you prefer to use DIRECT/PURE DIRECT modes for your music/movie listening; otherwise, for the vast majority who may not (ie. setting Front L/R to SMALL/80Hz and letting the dedicated sub handle the low end), the additional power from an external amp is not likely to provide any real benefit and therefore why it is much more cost effective to power the Height 2 speakers with a lower powered (eg. 50W) external amp.
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post #4949 of 4961 Old 01-17-2020, 09:25 PM
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Hi just noticed that the noise floor on my 7012 seems to be a little loud than usual. I can hear the hiss from my seating position which is 2 metres away. I have compared it to my 7011 which is almost inaudible unless close to the tweeter. My speaker are quite efficient whether that make any difference or not. Anyone having same issues or is it totally normal behaviour. Advice needed before calling service centre


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post #4950 of 4961 Old 01-17-2020, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by johnnyboy632 View Post
Hi just noticed that the noise floor on my 7012 seems to be a little loud than usual. I can hear the hiss from my seating position which is 2 metres away. I have compared it to my 7011 which is almost inaudible unless close to the tweeter. My speaker are quite efficient whether that make any difference or not. Anyone having same issues or is it totally normal behaviour. Advice needed before calling service centre


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Is the hiss from a single speaker or all speakers? If all speakers, try doing a "soft reset" by powering off the AVR and unplugging the power cord for 10 minutes.
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airplay , airplay problems , atmos , auro3d , bridging channels , clipping , distortion , dts:x , hdmi arc , issue , Marantz , marantz sr 6012 , marantz sr7012 , receivers , sr7012

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