*Official* Marantz 2017 NR1508/1608, SR5012/6012/7012 owner's thread - Page 54 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1591 of 4785 Old 06-04-2018, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Dennis L. View Post
It works as it should on my 1608 (Antenna tv, Netflix, Amazon)
Yeh ... not always the case depending on the brand/model of TV.
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post #1592 of 4785 Old 06-05-2018, 06:09 PM
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Hi.
Which is the latest firmware version for the SR6012?
I couldn’t find it anywhere.
I see that there was a recent update but I don’t see a notification.

I currently have 5130-7240-7332-4154.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Display: LG OLED55E6P | AVR: Marantz SR6012, 5.1.2 (Dolby Atmos setup)
Speakers: Fronts: KEF Q700 | Atmos Front Modules: Klipsch RP-140SA | Centre: KEF Q650 | Surrounds: BIC America Venturi DV84 | Sub: BIC America F12
Sources: Oppo UDP-205, Apple TV 4K, Chromecast, Xbox One S, Xbox 360 Elite, PlayStation 3, Nintendo Wii, Toshiba HD-A2 HD-DVD
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post #1593 of 4785 Old 06-05-2018, 11:15 PM
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Marantz SR5012 optimization question

Hello,

I am new to this thread and new to AVR. I am just getting into home theater and have been trying to find the best way to optimize my sound.

Equipment:

Marantz SR5012
Canton Chrono SL 595.2 Towers x2
Canton Chrono SL 555.2 Center

I initially had this setup, but the sound was a bit thin on the low end, and bright on the highs, so I am getting ear fatigue very quickly. I am thinking about adding an additional Power Amp. I currently have a Marantz MM7025 2-channel. I haven't set it up yet as I am still thinking about whether to keep it or return it for something more powerful or 3-channel? I'm looking at the Schiit Vidar, but it's a 2-channel also.

My question is, if I stick with a 2-channel amplifier, will the power from the AVR be enough for the center speaker? Should I get a 3-channel power amp so that the tower and the center have equivalent amping? Any recommendations on good 3-channel amps?

A second question is if I do keep the 2-channel, should I go straight from Pre-Out L/R into the 2-channel amp to power the speaker? Or should I explore bi-amping? Bi-amp L/R Pre-Out > 2-channel amp > LF (My understanding is you can't use the same pre-out and speaker out?). Then Surround Speaker Out L/R > HF. Is this even worth doing?

Thank you for your time, I hope this is enough information to answer the question.
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post #1594 of 4785 Old 06-06-2018, 01:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tri Le View Post
Hello,

I am new to this thread and new to AVR. I am just getting into home theater and have been trying to find the best way to optimize my sound.

Equipment:

Marantz SR5012
Canton Chrono SL 595.2 Towers x2
Canton Chrono SL 555.2 Center

I initially had this setup, but the sound was a bit thin on the low end, and bright on the highs, so I am getting ear fatigue very quickly. I am thinking about adding an additional Power Amp. I currently have a Marantz MM7025 2-channel. I haven't set it up yet as I am still thinking about whether to keep it or return it for something more powerful or 3-channel? I'm looking at the Schiit Vidar, but it's a 2-channel also.

My question is, if I stick with a 2-channel amplifier, will the power from the AVR be enough for the center speaker? Should I get a 3-channel power amp so that the tower and the center have equivalent amping? Any recommendations on good 3-channel amps?

A second question is if I do keep the 2-channel, should I go straight from Pre-Out L/R into the 2-channel amp to power the speaker? Or should I explore bi-amping? Bi-amp L/R Pre-Out > 2-channel amp > LF (My understanding is you can't use the same pre-out and speaker out?). Then Surround Speaker Out L/R > HF. Is this even worth doing?

Thank you for your time, I hope this is enough information to answer the question.
What master volume level on the AVR are you using? You would be better served adding a good quality subwoofer first before adding an external amp for the speakers.
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post #1595 of 4785 Old 06-06-2018, 03:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tri Le View Post
Hello,

I am new to this thread and new to AVR. I am just getting into home theater and have been trying to find the best way to optimize my sound.

Equipment:

Marantz SR5012
Canton Chrono SL 595.2 Towers x2
Canton Chrono SL 555.2 Center

I initially had this setup, but the sound was a bit thin on the low end, and bright on the highs, so I am getting ear fatigue very quickly. I am thinking about adding an additional Power Amp. I currently have a Marantz MM7025 2-channel. I haven't set it up yet as I am still thinking about whether to keep it or return it for something more powerful or 3-channel? I'm looking at the Schiit Vidar, but it's a 2-channel also.

My question is, if I stick with a 2-channel amplifier, will the power from the AVR be enough for the center speaker? Should I get a 3-channel power amp so that the tower and the center have equivalent amping? Any recommendations on good 3-channel amps?

A second question is if I do keep the 2-channel, should I go straight from Pre-Out L/R into the 2-channel amp to power the speaker? Or should I explore bi-amping? Bi-amp L/R Pre-Out > 2-channel amp > LF (My understanding is you can't use the same pre-out and speaker out?). Then Surround Speaker Out L/R > HF. Is this even worth doing?

Thank you for your time, I hope this is enough information to answer the question.
I did something similar with an Emotiva XPA-3 (275Wx3) and amped the front three speakers. With the amp installed, I no longer used the receiver (Denon 4308) amps....just the pre-outs. Before that, I had pretty good results as well - I was bi-amping the fronts and had a 6.2 setup (one rear). The bigger amp provided clarity and presence that wasn't there before - especially in stereo with a high quality CD. It was like I bought new speakers.

I remember when I bought the Emotiva, I was following some on-line advice to amp the center as well as the fronts, but when I watched movies or other surround sources, I didn't notice the difference as much as stereo.

I think your amp is quite capable at 140W x 2 and I agree with jdsmoothie's comment above...try a sub (and did you do room corrections with Audyssey?)

Last edited by Dennis L.; 06-06-2018 at 03:08 AM.
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post #1596 of 4785 Old 06-06-2018, 05:14 AM
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Hi guys, this is my first port here, so I hope I'm not breaking any forum etiquette.

I own a NR1508 since a few weeks ago (3.1 system, Q-acoustics 3050, 3090c and 3070s, fantastic combo!) and am super happy, specially with all the connectivity the NR1508 offers. I'm a heavy Spotify user this is the first time I've had any equipment width Spotify Connect, and it works superb!

However, I'm having a small issue with the GUI output, specially noticeable on the "now playing" screen when using Spotify Connect/Heos Music. The output looks terrible, something like an upscaled 480p signal or something like that (the tv is 1080p), and I can't seem to find any settings for it.
Now, I know that the NR1508 is an AVR and not some media player, and I was surprised that it even offers a GUI for Heos Music, but since it does, worth a shot of trying to get it to look nicer

TL;DR: The GUI output from the NR1508 looks very low-res, specially noticeable on the "now playing" screen. Is there something that can be done about it?

Thanks!
Daniel, Sweden
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post #1597 of 4785 Old 06-06-2018, 07:05 AM
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Well, I've just joined the 6012 owners club - or will do on Tuesday when I pick her up.

Without breaking any forum rules I hope, I can say that the discounting of these models has begun in the UK. Full price down 1/3 over RRP, and with the trade in I did for an Onkyo 818, got that down to less than half RRP (UK).

For me, it's just a stop-gap, and I'm going to use it as a simple processor until the 13 channel scene settles down a bit - I was going to buy the 8805 processor, but with talk of some Blu-ray producers 'hard-coding' 7.1.4 Atmos tracks, I'm going to sit it out for a little while until the situation becomes clearer, and the UK prices of the 8805 ease somewhat! Once I do go 'all in' with a 13 channel processor, this'll go in the 'snug' for gaming.

Looking forward to setting it up next week and finally seeing what the Atmos fuss is all about!
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Exclamation

Hello everybody... Sorry for my bad english...


I have Marantz sr7012, and i found bug... Very important...


Shortly: If you set up to AVR, that network "always on" and set heos settings (probably spotify listening to music) AND set up to AVR, that turn off after 15 minutes, the avr does not turn off automatically.


This is the problem, because it will stay on.


All settings will shut down except heos (if the avr always on network)


Competent peaople please forward it for Marantz engineers.


Thanks a lot, and have a nice day everybody.




Thomas
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post #1599 of 4785 Old 06-06-2018, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by UK Dreamer View Post
Well, I've just joined the 6012 owners club - or will do on Tuesday when I pick her up.

Without breaking any forum rules I hope, I can say that the discounting of these models has begun in the UK. Full price down 1/3 over RRP, and with the trade in I did for an Onkyo 818, got that down to less than half RRP (UK).

For me, it's just a stop-gap, and I'm going to use it as a simple processor until the 13 channel scene settles down a bit - I was going to buy the 8805 processor, but with talk of some Blu-ray producers 'hard-coding' 7.1.4 Atmos tracks, I'm going to sit it out for a little while until the situation becomes clearer, and the UK prices of the 8805 ease somewhat! Once I do go 'all in' with a 13 channel processor, this'll go in the 'snug' for gaming.

Looking forward to setting it up next week and finally seeing what the Atmos fuss is all about!
Sounds like a huge win with the trade in......
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post #1600 of 4785 Old 06-06-2018, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas Tamas View Post
Hello everybody... Sorry for my bad english...


I have Marantz sr7012, and i found bug... Very important...


Shortly: If you set up to AVR, that network "always on" and set heos settings (probably spotify listening to music) AND set up to AVR, that turn off after 15 minutes, the avr does not turn off automatically.


This is the problem, because it will stay on.


All settings will shut down except heos (if the avr always on network)


Competent peaople please forward it for Marantz engineers.


Thanks a lot, and have a nice day everybody.




Thomas
As the issue is with your unit, you are best served personally contacting Marantz directly to report the problem as it may not present on other units.
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post #1601 of 4785 Old 06-06-2018, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielcrk View Post
Hi guys, this is my first port here, so I hope I'm not breaking any forum etiquette.

I own a NR1508 since a few weeks ago (3.1 system, Q-acoustics 3050, 3090c and 3070s, fantastic combo!) and am super happy, specially with all the connectivity the NR1508 offers. I'm a heavy Spotify user this is the first time I've had any equipment width Spotify Connect, and it works superb!

However, I'm having a small issue with the GUI output, specially noticeable on the "now playing" screen when using Spotify Connect/Heos Music. The output looks terrible, something like an upscaled 480p signal or something like that (the tv is 1080p), and I can't seem to find any settings for it.
Now, I know that the NR1508 is an AVR and not some media player, and I was surprised that it even offers a GUI for Heos Music, but since it does, worth a shot of trying to get it to look nicer

TL;DR: The GUI output from the NR1508 looks very low-res, specially noticeable on the "now playing" screen. Is there something that can be done about it?

Thanks!
Daniel, Sweden
It is low rez and nothing can be done about it.
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Sounds like a huge win with the trade in......
I think it’s a cracking bargain, particularly as the reseller is currently including a 5 year warranty on their D&M products!
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post #1603 of 4785 Old 06-06-2018, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
It is low rez and nothing can be done about it.
That's too bad Before I got the NR1508, I streamed music from my phone to an AppleTV 4, which has a pretty gorgeous now-playing screen. I've used it plenty as a background when having people over etc. NR1508's screen actually looks pretty descent, hadn't it been for the strangely low resolution.

Last edited by danielcrk; 06-06-2018 at 01:31 PM.
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Does anyone know if the Apple TV 4K remote can be set up to change the volume on any of these receivers through CEC? My AVR is kept behind a door so I don't have line of site to use the remote's IR blaster. I know that Marantz has a CEC option in settings, but I'm not sure exactly how it works. I do have an old Harmony remote but it turns out I really like the Apple touchpad for browsing my Plex library.

If any receiver can change volume with ATV remote, I'll probably buy it. :-)
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post #1605 of 4785 Old 06-06-2018, 08:19 PM
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Apple TV CEC

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shizzlenits View Post
Does anyone know if the Apple TV 4K remote can be set up to change the volume on any of these receivers through CEC? My AVR is kept behind a door so I don't have line of site to use the remote's IR blaster. I know that Marantz has a CEC option in settings, but I'm not sure exactly how it works. I do have an old Harmony remote but it turns out I really like the Apple touchpad for browsing my Plex library.

If any receiver can change volume with ATV remote, I'll probably buy it. :-)
YES

See this

https://support.apple.com/en-us/ht205225
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post #1606 of 4785 Old 06-06-2018, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Shizzlenits View Post
Does anyone know if the Apple TV 4K remote can be set up to change the volume on any of these receivers through CEC? My AVR is kept behind a door so I don't have line of site to use the remote's IR blaster. I know that Marantz has a CEC option in settings, but I'm not sure exactly how it works.
I have the NR1608. The way HDMI-CEC/ARC works is that the TV volume controls change the receiver's volume. Therefore if your TV supports ARC and your ATV remote can change the TV volume, then the remote will also control the Marantz receiver volume once ARC is enabled in both the TV and the receiver.

I have a Harmony remote but I program it to send my Sony TV volume remote commands, not the Marantz volume commands. This way my TV's volume bar overlay appears and it works for 4K signals, even though the NR1608 is handling all the sound.
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I have a Harmony remote but I program it to send my Sony TV volume remote commands, not the Marantz volume commands. This way my TV's volume bar overlay appears and it works for 4K signals, even though the NR1608 is handling all the sound.
Aha !!! Good idea !!! I'm going to steal it.
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Originally Posted by Dennis L. View Post
Aha !!! Good idea !!! I'm going to steal it.
Great! Here is what I did to use ARC and my TV's volume overlay instead of the Marantz volume bar (much uglier, overlay does not work for 4K signals): http://manuals.marantz.com/nr1608/na...SYkabkahie.php
* Connect my TV's ARC HDMI output to the NR1608
* Enable HDMI-CEC: Video...HDMI Setup...HDMI Control = On
* Enable ARC: Video...HDMI Setup...ARC = On
* Switch to ARC audio automatically: Video...HDMI Setup...TV Audio Switching = On
* Video...HDMI Setup...HDMI Control = On
* Disable the AVR's processing and GUI: Video...Output Settings...Video Conversion = Off
* Disable the AVR's volume bar: Video...On Screen Display...Volume = Off
* Disable the AVR's volume bar: Video...On Screen Display...Info = Off

You also need to enable HDMI-CEC and ARC in your TV's menus.

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Great! Here is what I did to use ARC and my TV's volume overlay instead of the Marantz volume bar (much uglier, overlay does not work for 4K signals): http://manuals.marantz.com/nr1608/na...SYkabkahie.php
* Connect my TV's ARC HDMI output to the NR1608
* Enable HDMI-CEC: Video...HDMI Setup...HDMI Control = On
* Enable ARC: Video...HDMI Setup...ARC = On
* Switch to ARC audio automatically: Video...HDMI Setup...TV Audio Switching = On
* Video...HDMI Setup...HDMI Control = On
* Disable the AVR's processing and GUI: Video...Output Settings...Video Conversion = Off
* Disable the AVR's volume bar: Video...On Screen Display...Volume = Off
* Disable the AVR's volume bar: Video...On Screen Display...Info = Off

You also need to enable HDMI-CEC and ARC in your TV's menus.
Can you still turn off the TV internal speaker and just use the Marantz? I have an LG OLED
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post #1610 of 4785 Old 06-07-2018, 09:01 AM
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Can you still turn off the TV internal speaker and just use the Marantz? I have an LG OLED
Absolutely. We always turn off the TV speakers if using an AV receiver for sound.

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post #1611 of 4785 Old 06-08-2018, 02:33 PM
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Quick question about Turntable hookup

Hey guys. Quick question...


Does it matter which input I use for a turntable on the Marantz SR 5012? I have a turntable with it's own preamp, and the Marantz doesn't have a Phono input anyway... I'm still stuck in the past with some things... It used to be that some analog inputs were better quality than others. ie. bertter s\n ratio on the CD input only... Is this still true? Which input should I use? Or are they all the inputs the same quality today?


Thanks for your input. - (No pun intended)
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post #1612 of 4785 Old 06-08-2018, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rlwings View Post
Hey guys. Quick question...


Does it matter which input I use for a turntable on the Marantz SR 5012? I have a turntable with it's own preamp, and the Marantz doesn't have a Phono input anyway... I'm still stuck in the past with some things... It used to be that some analog inputs were better quality than others. ie. bertter s\n ratio on the CD input only... Is this still true? Which input should I use? Or are they all the inputs the same quality today?


Thanks for your input. - (No pun intended)
Nope.
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post #1613 of 4785 Old 06-09-2018, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by mikey94025 View Post
Absolutely. We always turn off the TV speakers if using an AV receiver for sound.
I tried your setup and it didn't work on mine. Well, I should say, some things didn't work. The TV controlled the Marantz volume with 4K video just fine and I got a volume graphic on the TV but when I went to initially power on everything with the Logitech remote, the TV would turn on, then turn off. Looked like something in the CEC world was acting twice. Probably should just use the TV power on and not both the TV and the receiver. But, I ran out of patience in troubleshooting and put it back the way it was (due to complaining from the better half).
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post #1614 of 4785 Old 06-09-2018, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis L. View Post
I tried your setup and it didn't work on mine. Well, I should say, some things didn't work. The TV controlled the Marantz volume with 4K video just fine and I got a volume graphic on the TV but when I went to initially power on everything with the Logitech remote, the TV would turn on, then turn off. Looked like something in the CEC world was acting twice. Probably should just use the TV power on and not both the TV and the receiver. But, I ran out of patience in troubleshooting and put it back the way it was (due to complaining from the better half).
If you ever do try it again, yes the CEC stuff conflicts with the Harmony way of things. I used to always disable CEC for everything and only rely on my Harmony remote to power on/off all my devices, but with the new ARC capability with built-in TV apps I finally gave into HDMI-CEC. It's probably easiest to change your Harmony setup to only power on the TV and rely on CEC to power on everything else (i.e., not the normal Harmony way). Are you sending a power toggle command in your Harmony TV device? That would explain why your TV turns on (via CEC) and then turns off (Harmony sends power toggle thinking it will turn on the TV). If your Harmony LG TV device supports discrete power on and power off commands then that could also fix things.

I actually use a more complicated CEC device configuration (actual device setup, not the Harmony device):
* My Sony TV does not automatically power on via CEC
* My Marantz NR1608 does automatically power on via CEC
* My Harmony watch TV activity powers on the Marantz first, then the TV, and I also added a 5-sec delay between these two Harmony activity startup commands
* I programmed my Comcast cable remote to send the Sony TV's power and volume commands

My goal was for the Harmony remote to operate everything just the way I like it, but allow the "more friendly" cable remote to also work for basic TV watching. The cable remote just powers on the TV and the Marantz automatically powers up via CEC. Turning off the TV via the cable remote also automatically powers down the Marantz via CEC. My Harmony device for the Marantz uses discrete power on and power off commands, so if I use my Harmony remote then extra power on and power off commands get sent to the Marantz but these don't conflict with what CEC is doing.

This setup works pretty well, except occasionally my Sony TV decides to use its internal speakers instead of the Marantz. There's some timing issue with the Sony detecting when to use ARC. The Sony TV doesn't have a setting to always use external speakers, just one to automatically switch to external speakers when it detects them. I've tried various Harmony activity startup delays but can't get it 100% correct, just mostly correct. I believe this is a quirk on the Sony TV, not Harmony or Marantz.

Sony XBR-65A1E OLED | Yamaha RX-S602 | B&W M1/PV1 | Sony UBP-X700 | Amazon Fire TV
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post #1615 of 4785 Old 06-09-2018, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by mikey94025 View Post
If you ever do try it again, yes the CEC stuff conflicts with the Harmony way of things. I used to always disable CEC for everything and only rely on my Harmony remote to power on/off all my devices, but with the new ARC capability with built-in TV apps I finally gave into HDMI-CEC. It's probably easiest to change your Harmony setup to only power on the TV and rely on CEC to power on everything else (i.e., not the normal Harmony way). Are you sending a power toggle command in your Harmony TV device? That would explain why your TV turns on (via CEC) and then turns off (Harmony sends power toggle thinking it will turn on the TV). If your Harmony LG TV device supports discrete power on and power off commands then that could also fix things.

I actually use a more complicated CEC device configuration (actual device setup, not the Harmony device):
* My Sony TV does not automatically power on via CEC
* My Marantz NR1608 does automatically power on via CEC
* My Harmony watch TV activity powers on the Marantz first, then the TV, and I also added a 5-sec delay between these two Harmony activity startup commands
* I programmed my Comcast cable remote to send the Sony TV's power and volume commands

My goal was for the Harmony remote to operate everything just the way I like it, but allow the "more friendly" cable remote to also work for basic TV watching. The cable remote just powers on the TV and the Marantz automatically powers up via CEC. Turning off the TV via the cable remote also automatically powers down the Marantz via CEC. My Harmony device for the Marantz uses discrete power on and power off commands, so if I use my Harmony remote then extra power on and power off commands get sent to the Marantz but these don't conflict with what CEC is doing.

This setup works pretty well, except occasionally my Sony TV decides to use its internal speakers instead of the Marantz. There's some timing issue with the Sony detecting when to use ARC. The Sony TV doesn't have a setting to always use external speakers, just one to automatically switch to external speakers when it detects them. I've tried various Harmony activity startup delays but can't get it 100% correct, just mostly correct. I believe this is a quirk on the Sony TV, not Harmony or Marantz.
I was using those Harmony remote delays and running into trouble with things not working right. Then when I went back to edit the sequence - I saw that the Harmony software on my iMac changed the order of commands back to the default. The delay was still there but out of place. I sent an email to Logitech and they kind of admitted there was work to be done there (software). I believe they know about it but aren't in a big hurry to fix it.

But when I looked at the sequence on my ipad...it was OK. Strange.
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post #1616 of 4785 Old 06-09-2018, 05:53 PM
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I did something similar with an Emotiva XPA-3 (275Wx3) and amped the front three speakers. With the amp installed, I no longer used the receiver (Denon 4308) amps....just the pre-outs. Before that, I had pretty good results as well - I was bi-amping the fronts and had a 6.2 setup (one rear). The bigger amp provided clarity and presence that wasn't there before - especially in stereo with a high quality CD. It was like I bought new speakers.

I remember when I bought the Emotiva, I was following some on-line advice to amp the center as well as the fronts, but when I watched movies or other surround sources, I didn't notice the difference as much as stereo.

I think your amp is quite capable at 140W x 2 and I agree with jdsmoothie's comment above...try a sub (and did you do room corrections with Audyssey?)
Thank you for the response. I spoke to a few people and they said something similar. If I were to use an external amp, don't bother with bi-amping and all that complicated stuff, just let the amp power the speakers from the pre-outs. I picked up a Monoprice Monolith 3-channel and have been testing it against the Marantz MM7025.

The Marantz MM7025 definitely added more dynamics and power to the low end, but when I A/B it against the monolith, the difference was pretty clear. The low end was very punchy and tight. The bass was a lot more resolved and clear, I felt it was muddy with the MM7025. I went with the 3-channel for the center speaker, but after testing the center channel out of the AVR vs. External amp, I didn't notice a difference. It probably just uses high frequencies and that doesn't require as much current. I'm pretty happy with the Monolith 3-channel now and that should satisfy everything I need.

Thanks for the responses!
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post #1617 of 4785 Old 06-09-2018, 05:56 PM
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Fast Forward/Seek USB Music Marantz SR5012 Problem

I have a Marantz SR5012 AVR.

I play most of my music out of a 64gb USB flash drive I plug in through the front. I am having problems fast forwarding or rewinding. Has anyone else noticed this issue? When I hold the FF or Rewind button down on the remote, the green light lights up, but the track doesn't move. A single click does result in skipping to the next song or restarting the same song, so I know the button works. Has anyone else experienced an issue seeking tracks through USB playback?

When I play music from CDs, I use my XBOX, so the seeking is done through the game controller and it works fine. Also Spotify allows you to control the music location with the app. I am only experiencing this issue with the receiver playback.

Thanks!
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post #1618 of 4785 Old 06-10-2018, 07:10 AM
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post #1619 of 4785 Old 06-10-2018, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Tri Le View Post
I have a Marantz SR5012 AVR.

I play most of my music out of a 64gb USB flash drive I plug in through the front. I am having problems fast forwarding or rewinding. Has anyone else noticed this issue? When I hold the FF or Rewind button down on the remote, the green light lights up, but the track doesn't move. A single click does result in skipping to the next song or restarting the same song, so I know the button works. Has anyone else experienced an issue seeking tracks through USB playback?

When I play music from CDs, I use my XBOX, so the seeking is done through the game controller and it works fine. Also Spotify allows you to control the music location with the app. I am only experiencing this issue with the receiver playback.

Thanks!
Same thing here on my SR5012... I don't think this function is available in the AVR's internal app... Just on individual music apps.
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post #1620 of 4785 Old 06-11-2018, 05:43 AM
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Cool SR-5012, HEOS & BlueTooth

I recently bought and demo'd the HS2 Version of the HEOS 1 portable speaker. Functionally its terrific; sound-wise its terrible! The sound is flat, boring and without much definition. Bass in particular is pretty much non-existent. Anyway, its going back.

Since I do have a Bose SoundLink 300 which is heads above the HEOS 1 and has very decent bass and a form factor much more conducive to carrying around, and since it does have BlueTooth, I'm wondering:

* Can I fire up the HEOS environment (mainly Spotify) on the 5012 and then transmit it via BlueTooth to the SoundLink?

Thank you,
Scott

Panasonic 2013 55VT60
Marantz SR-5012 AVR
B&W 805 Speakers
Velodyne 10" Sub
TiVO Premiere
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