*Official* Marantz 2017 NR1508/1608, SR5012/6012/7012 owner's thread - Page 98 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2911 of 4834 Old 10-25-2018, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
No. This feature is only available on the "flagship" Denon AVRs.
Is the following true, which I once read on some forum (likely this one but I can't recall for sure)? That the power amp bypass feature found on some of the top units means the signal is severed from going to the internal power amps and instead only goes to the preamp out jacks, so the power amps never even see the signal unlike in most designs, hence they rest and stay idle, however they still stay powered up?

[I tried posting this earlier but I accidentally nuked it. Sorry. ]
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post #2912 of 4834 Old 10-25-2018, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
They each have the same adjustable settings as the "Custom" settings but each has a fixed (ie. non-adjustable) gamma coefficient.



.

Mine only has pic adjustments in Custom mode.

bob
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post #2913 of 4834 Old 10-25-2018, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
Mine only has pic adjustments in Custom mode.

bob
Hi, Leaning towards purchasing a 6012 (prices look good). I have a couple questions...

1) I've read it gets quite hot in operation. I plan to not use at least the FLC speaker outputs and route FLC to a multi-channel NAD amp I have, and just use the surround and atmos speaker outputs. Has anyone done this, and does it run cooler w/ disconnected FLC?

2) It has 11 channel processing, but 9 channel speaker out (from what I've read). If I should ever go 7.2.4, can the external amp be for the FLC, and reassign the speaker outputs to the remaining 8 smaller speakers (surround+atmos)? Can't tell if it has this flexibility.

thanks
Mark
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post #2914 of 4834 Old 10-25-2018, 10:57 PM
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It will likely run cooler if you offload FR, C and FL. If not a fan will take care of it. I have one and added a fan. Never gets too warm.

It can do 11 with the extra amp you are going to use.

Spoiler!
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post #2915 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoo View Post
Hi, Leaning towards purchasing a 6012 (prices look good). I have a couple questions...

1) I've read it gets quite hot in operation. I plan to not use at least the FLC speaker outputs and route FLC to a multi-channel NAD amp I have, and just use the surround and atmos speaker outputs. Has anyone done this, and does it run cooler w/ disconnected FLC?
While offloading some of the receiver's amp duties to external amps does reduce the receiver's temperature somewhat, a significant fraction of the total comes from the HDMI and video chips. Also, from people's descriptions, I've gotten the impression that the temperatures can vary from one unit to another, although it also could be that one person's "warm" is another person's "hot". Actual temperature readings aren't provided very often. At any rate, using an external fan can reduce the temperature significantly (e.g. to ~85° F instead of over 100° F). AC Infinity fans are popular here on AVS.
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2) It has 11 channel processing, but 9 channel speaker out (from what I've read). If I should ever go 7.2.4, can the external amp be for the FLC, and reassign the speaker outputs to the remaining 8 smaller speakers (surround+atmos)? Can't tell if it has this flexibility.
Some of the "Amp Assign" menu options do reassign amps (e.g. to Height2 if the Fronts are designated as "preamp"), although you can't explicitly say "use this amp for that speaker." Among recent D&M models, the latter capability is provided only by the Denon AVR-X7200WA and AVR-X8500H.

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post #2916 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
Mine only has pic adjustments in Custom mode.

bob
Can anyone confirm or deny pic adjustments in ISF modes?

thx

bob
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post #2917 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post
While offloading some of the receiver's amp duties to external amps does reduce the receiver's temperature somewhat, a significant fraction of the total comes from the HDMI and video chips. Also, from people's descriptions, I've gotten the impression that the temperatures can vary from one unit to another, although it also could be that one person's "warm" is another person's "hot". Actual temperature readings aren't provided very often. At any rate, using an external fan can reduce the temperature significantly (e.g. to ~85° F instead of over 100° F). AC Infinity fans are popular here on AVS.

Some of the "Amp Assign" menu options do reassign amps (e.g. to Height2 if the Fronts are designated as "preamp"), although you can't explicitly say "use this amp for that speaker." Among recent D&M models, the latter capability is provided only by the Denon AVR-X7200WA and AVR-X8500H.
Again, that would be only the "flagship" models going back about at least 8 years actually.
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post #2918 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoo View Post
Hi, Leaning towards purchasing a 6012 (prices look good). I have a couple questions...

1) I've read it gets quite hot in operation. I plan to not use at least the FLC speaker outputs and route FLC to a multi-channel NAD amp I have, and just use the surround and atmos speaker outputs. Has anyone done this, and does it run cooler w/ disconnected FLC?

2) It has 11 channel processing, but 9 channel speaker out (from what I've read). If I should ever go 7.2.4, can the external amp be for the FLC, and reassign the speaker outputs to the remaining 8 smaller speakers (surround+atmos)? Can't tell if it has this flexibility.

thanks
Mark
1. Sufficient ventilation shouldn't result in any overheating issue at all, otherwise, if enclosed in a tight space, then consider adding an AC Infinity Aircomm T8.
2. You can externally power either the FL/FR or HT2L/HT2R at your discretion to expand from 9CH --> 11CH. Beyond that, you can externally power as may additional speakers as you prefer with the AVR powering the remainder.
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post #2919 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
Mine only has pic adjustments in Custom mode.

bob
That's all it should have.
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post #2920 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
Can anyone confirm or deny pic adjustments in ISF modes?

thx

bob
To gain access to the ISF "Custom" settings (ie. same settings as with the "Custom" mode) you must:

Press/hold the INFO button for 5 seconds with the Setup - Video – Picture Adjust – ON - ISF Day setting displayed (although same settings as used with the “Custom” mode, there is a different “Gamma Coefficient” setting (not adjustable) for each of the ISF Day/Night settings). The ISF Day settings should be followed by the ISF Night settings.
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post #2921 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Is the following true, which I once read on some forum (likely this one but I can't recall for sure)? That the power amp bypass feature found on some of the top units means the signal is severed from going to the internal power amps and instead only goes to the preamp out jacks, so the power amps never even see the signal unlike in most designs, hence they rest and stay idle, however they still stay powered up?

[I tried posting this earlier but I accidentally nuked it. Sorry. ]
Correct.
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post #2922 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 11:01 AM
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AURO 3D 10.1 set up questions

Hello all, I understand that for the top VOG speaker that it requires manually setting the speaker to a 11.1 channel and then assigning the top speaker to external amp and using the AVRs sub 2 out as the input for the second AMP.

Where I am uncertain as I’m not familiar with separates, is do s the external amp have to be a power amp specifically or can I use a small integrated amp like a schist mani or ps audio sprout type device! Before I bought this extra device I wanted to make sure it would work. Also assuming that whatever amp I go with, if it has the two (red/white) rca inputs, would I need to get some sort of Y splitter to convert the single sub to two rca for the amp or could I plug into the red or white only? I may end up just finding an Amp only that has the single Black rca input but I wanted to know all my options.

I’ve already spoken with svs reharding my dual subs and how I could split them off the single sub out so that I would not lose one of my subs.

Anyway, thanks for any feedback.

Mike

Btw, I have the sr7012.
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post #2923 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 11:28 AM
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My 7012 comes in the mail today so I have been researching and stumbled upon critical information.. So if running auro 3d the 9.1 setup that runs dtsx with atmos or auro you need to set the rear height to rear height and not surround heoght..


I plan to take out my rear surround and turn them into the rear heights above the side surrounds...I wont lose much without my 2 rear surrounds will I?

So instead of running say 7.1.2 dolby with 2 rear surrounds and 2 front heights ill run 9.1 auro 3d and no rear surrounds...

Also can I run all my height speakers in bi pole mode, I have polk fxi4 which has a switch for dipole...bipole...

Last edited by burts; 10-26-2018 at 11:34 AM.
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post #2924 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmorrison55 View Post
Hello all, I understand that for the top VOG speaker that it requires manually setting the speaker to a 11.1 channel and then assigning the top speaker to external amp and using the AVRs sub 2 out as the input for the second AMP.

Where I am uncertain as I’m not familiar with separates, is do s the external amp have to be a power amp specifically or can I use a small integrated amp like a schist mani or ps audio sprout type device! Before I bought this extra device I wanted to make sure it would work. Also assuming that whatever amp I go with, if it has the two (red/white) rca inputs, would I need to get some sort of Y splitter to convert the single sub to two rca for the amp or could I plug into the red or white only? I may end up just finding an Amp only that has the single Black rca input but I wanted to know all my options.

I’ve already spoken with svs reharding my dual subs and how I could split them off the single sub out so that I would not lose one of my subs.

Anyway, thanks for any feedback.

Mike

Btw, I have the sr7012.

I was researching a lot last night and I swear I came to a article that stated that the voice of god speaker basically has no decoding for consumers...Basically I wanted 10.1
but now im going to setup 9.1 as the middle height speaker would be silent? Or am I wrong?

https://www.audioholics.com/editoria...ing-evaluation

“Auro-3D calls for an overhead speaker for a third, top layer, which is unique to the Auro-3D format. The third speaker is commonly called the "Voice of God" channel because it reproduces sounds from above. While DTS:X can theoretically support the top speaker among its speaker layout agnostic architecture I'm not aware of any consumer-based AVR that allows you to use it with DTS:X. I can't use the top speaker on the Denon AVR-X7200WA with DTS:X content. Therefore, for purposes of our discussion, we'll consider the third layer—the overhead layer—unique to Auro-3D in today’s consumer AVR electronics.”

Last edited by burts; 10-26-2018 at 11:51 AM.
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post #2925 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 12:09 PM
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I was researching a lot last night and I swear I came to a article that stated that the voice of god speaker basically has no decoding for consumers...Basically I wanted 10.1
but now im going to setup 9.1 as the middle height speaker would be silent? Or am I wrong?

https://www.audioholics.com/editoria...ing-evaluation

“Auro-3D calls for an overhead speaker for a third, top layer, which is unique to the Auro-3D format. The third speaker is commonly called the "Voice of God" channel because it reproduces sounds from above. While DTS:X can theoretically support the top speaker among its speaker layout agnostic architecture I'm not aware of any consumer-based AVR that allows you to use it with DTS:X. I can't use the top speaker on the Denon AVR-X7200WA with DTS:X content. Therefore, for purposes of our discussion, we'll consider the third layer—the overhead layer—unique to Auro-3D in today’s consumer AVR electronics.”
In that article:
A 10.1 Auro-3D setup adds the voice of God in-ceiling speaker above the listening position. While there are native Auro-3D mixes above 10.1, today’s consumer-level AVRs with Auro-3D don’t support the additional channels natively so they will be down-mixed.


The way I understood that Artie hat it was above 10.1, meaning that 10.1 does work. I’ve heard it’s great for gaming (think overhead choppers, gunfire, etc) and music especially.movies I think depends on the movie and how it was mixed. It seems most of the rally good auro3d blue rays come from overseas. I don’t have a problem with this as I but lots of movies from amazon up because they are one of the few places you can still buy new 3D movies. So I’ll Chechen for auro 3Dmovies the next time I order some flicks.

My only question is what are my options for the section nearby amp. I would rather not spend a-2k on a 2 channel amp if I don’t have to. And some smaller integrated might fit my needs, but.i would like some confirmation that others have verified before I buy anything else.

I will likely go with 9.1 for the time being but want the vog speaker at some point in the near future.

Last edited by mmorrison55; 10-26-2018 at 02:02 PM.
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post #2926 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmorrison55 View Post
Hello all, I understand that for the top VOG speaker that it requires manually setting the speaker to a 11.1 channel and then assigning the top speaker to external amp and using the AVRs sub 2 out as the input for the second AMP.

Where I am uncertain as I’m not familiar with separates, is do s the external amp have to be a power amp specifically or can I use a small integrated amp like a schist mani or ps audio sprout type device!
Using an amplifier simplifies the configuration, but isn't necessary. If you use a device with a preamp built into it, then you should set its volume control to ~80 % of maximum. Mark it in some way so you can return its volume control to that setting if it gets changed. Then rerun the receiver's Audyssey calibration procedure, including for the Top Surround (VOG) speaker.
Quote:
Before I bought this extra device I wanted to make sure it would work. Also assuming that whatever amp I go with, if it has the two (red/white) rca inputs, would I need to get some sort of Y splitter to convert the single sub to two rca for the amp or could I plug into the red or white only? I may end up just finding an Amp only that has the single Black rca input but I wanted to know all my options.
When using a stereo amp, you should use only one of the red or white RCA connections (i.e. use either the Right or Left channel). Don't use a Y connection.

You can use the other channel for some other standalone speaker channel: the Center, perhaps, or you can just leave it idle.
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post #2927 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 01:06 PM
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Well, I had enough waiting to hear what this BS "Imax Enhanced" is supposed to offer. No firmware for the 8500 as promised so far and even DTS refused to write back when I asked them what difference there would be, particularly on the Denon 8500H. They lost an 8500H sale. I'm not going to shell out $4K on a whim and a prayer that they will get rid of that damn 11-channel DTS limit that makes the 8500 near pointless save Native Atmos only (not enough Auro-3D 13.1 native content to care). It can't use 13 channels for DSU or Neural X. Awful limitations....

I ended up ordering a Marantz 7012 to replace my 7010. If I get the 7010 fixed, I can always combine to get true wides or resell it. I should get it in a couple of days.
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Click THEATER (Updated: Nov-12-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 11-01-19)
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post #2928 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 01:57 PM
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Well, I had enough waiting to hear what this BS "Imax Enhanced" is supposed to offer. No firmware for the 8500 as promised so far and even DTS refused to write back when I asked them what difference there would be, particularly on the Denon 8500H. They lost an 8500H sale. I'm not going to shell out $4K on a whim and a prayer that they will get rid of that damn 11-channel DTS limit that makes the 8500 near pointless save Native Atmos only (not enough Auro-3D 13.1 native content to care). It can't use 13 channels for DSU or Neural X. Awful limitations....

I ended up ordering a Marantz 7012 to replace my 7010. If I get the 7010 fixed, I can always combine to get true wides or resell it. I should get it in a couple of days.
I hope you got it from crutchfield or similar that had it for the discounted 1100 price. I ended up ordering through Best Buy who priced matched Crutchfield. I wasn’t sure if bb is just late to mark this avr down or crutchfield has some crazy good price.
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post #2929 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post
Using an amplifier simplifies the configuration, but isn't necessary. If you use a device with a preamp built into it, then you should set its volume control to ~80 % of maximum. Mark it in some way so you can return its volume control to that setting if it gets changed. Then rerun the receiver's Audyssey calibration procedure, including for the Top Surround (VOG) speaker.

When using a stereo amp, you should use only one of the red or white RCA connections (i.e. use either the Right or Left channel). Don't use a Y connection.

You can use the other channel for some other standalone speaker channel: the Center, perhaps, or you can just leave it idle.
Thanks Selden for the feedback. Much appreciated.
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post #2930 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mmorrison55 View Post
I hope you got it from crutchfield or similar that had it for the discounted 1100 price. I ended up ordering through Best Buy who priced matched Crutchfield. I wasn’t sure if bb is just late to mark this avr down or crutchfield has some crazy good price.
I got it from an authorized dealer through Amazon (free shipping) at the sale price (chosen to get it here faster). Best Buy doesn't have it in stock here so it would have taken longer. The 30 day return policy I'd get as an elite member would be nice if something went wrong early, but beyond that there's not much difference. My credit card gives me an extra year of warranty so that's 4 years instead of 3 in either case (no ridiculous overpriced BB warranty needed that won't cover it if the manufacturer's warranty does already anyway).

I'm hoping (but not expecting) that my 7010 learning remote will work with the 7012. I'd hate to have buy yet another remote when that one worked so well for my other devices.

(Anyone else think these forums are going MUCH slower in the past few weeks than usual?)

Click THEATER (Updated: Nov-12-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 11-01-19)

Last edited by MagnumX; 10-26-2018 at 02:13 PM.
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post #2931 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 03:56 PM
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Hello, new Marantz SR6012 owner.....my trusty 7.5 year old Anthem MRX gave up the ghost. I decided
On this AVR primarily for the Audyssey Platinum (I came from using Anthem's Highly regarded room EQ)
This Marantz has a ton of new features I will probably never use. (Atmos,HEOS,CEC/ARC etc)
I fell like it's been A LONG TIME since I set-up a new AVR...things have definitely changed!!

My set up is a very simple one and is not likely to change
Standard 5 speakers and 2 subs.
I use 2 mono-blocks to power the left/right speakers. (They are hooked up to the Marantz pre-amp output)
My TV is a 65" Sony 1080p and all my sources are 1080p.
No zone 2 or 3. Or B speakers
Initial set-up went great

I have a few questions if someone has time:

1)-for my setup what is the correct configuration for the "amp select/assign" for ny system. It seems as
Though there are a ton of options. Which is correct for me???

2)Audyssey set my Fronts to 'large full band'. I can't seem to figure out how to set them to SMALL.
My center and surrounds were set small with 60 hz xover. I would ideally like to run them at 80hz
And the left/right at 60hz. I noticed that I could change ALL speakers to small with an xover of 80hz,
Which is a global xover.? I don't really want to use 'LFE+Main' as I've have read that creates too much
Bass bloat?
What I do want is when I play a 2channel music source is to have the subs playing/reinforcing the mains!

3) what is the best way to perform firmware updates?? USB stick or over the wireless network?? Do I even
Need firmware updates with my simple system.

4)am I correct in assuming the 'smart select" buttons on the remote are only used if you have hdmi ARC/CEC
functions???

Thanks for any assistance, I've been reading thru this thread and I'm up to page 22.

(Main)-Marantz 6012*Outlaw Audio M2200*Rythmik F12 subs*Paradigm Signature S6,C1,S1
******Harman Kardon DMC1000 (music)-Assassin HTPC (movies).
(Bedroom)-Marantz SR5003*Paradigm Studio 40,SE Center,SE One*SVS SB-2000 subs*Sony S6200
(Music room)-Outlaw Audio RR2150*Sierra Two ribbon speakers*Rythmik L12 sub*Yamaha CDR-HD1500
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post #2932 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 05:00 PM
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I received my 7012 about a month ago and have been using it in a 5.1 configuration with two subs. I have the additional speakers to add rear surrounds and 4 in-ceiling speakers for a 11.2.4 Atmos setup. I have been waiting to complete the install due to an extremely hot attic (Houston TX area). While waiting I have been trying to get through this entire thread (caught up now) as well as trying to plan out my final speaker locations.

I have heard that a proper Dolby Atmos configuration does not translate well to Auro 3D , but have not heard anything about how Dolby Atmos would play through an Auro 3D setup. This is just a planning exercise at this point but idle minds will wander! My in ceiling speakers are Jamo 610 LCR FG II ( a 3 way with 10" woofer, and aim-able silk dome 1.5" mid range and 1" tweeter), which can be arranged and directed toward the listening positions (a single couch at 2/3 the length of our room).

For Auro 3D this would have front height speakers in ceiling above my left/right speakers and side height speakers in ceiling above my side surrounds. My other choice would be to just use the ceiling speakers in the normal Dolby Atmos locations: two in ceiling in front of the couch in line with my L/R fronts and two in ceiling behind the couch. A possible 3rd choice would be to fudge the ceiling Auro 3D locations more toward the preferred Dolby Atmos locations to attempt a workable compromise.

Additional info: I have Paradigm Signature 8 series for the 5 speaker configuration, two Jamo 8" in walls in the rear, all at ear height. I am using 2 ch. and 5 ch. Sunfire amps for the 7 ear level speakers and will be using the internal amps of the 7012 for the ceiling level speakers.

Thoughts?

PS - I have really been enjoying the sound of the 7012. My previous 7.2 channel dedicated theater system was the Paradigm speakers, Sunfire Amps and an Anthem D2 processor which also sounded incredible, but I do not feel like I am losing much with the Marantz. Plus it is so much more versatile than the Anthem. Love the Air Play of my I tunes Library (All ripped CD's in Apple Lossless) from my computer system in my office to the family room. so easy and sounds great! I am sure there will be more that I can discover about this receiver that I have not had a chance to play with.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

John Dixon
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post #2933 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 05:30 PM
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I've gotten the impression that the temperatures can vary from one unit to another, although it also could be that one person's "warm" is another person's "hot".
I don't think they differ serial number to serial number, at all, its {as you say} how loud they play it, how long they play it, the speaker load, and hugely important is the environment they put it in. Zillions of people put them in shelving units but if you read the fine print they often warn, to paraphrase: "That's fine, but just be sure the shelf above is at least 12 inches away or more and that there is 6 inches of clearance to the sides and back of the unit too." Hardly anyone with shelving units adhere to this.
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Originally Posted by AV-NUT-99 View Post
I have heard that a proper Dolby Atmos configuration does not translate well to Auro 3D , but have not heard anything about how Dolby Atmos would play through an Auro 3D setup. This is just a planning exercise at this point but idle minds will wander! My in ceiling speakers are Jamo 610 LCR FG II ( a 3 way with 10" woofer, and aim-able silk dome 1.5" mid range and 1" tweeter), which can be arranged and directed toward the listening positions (a single couch at 2/3 the length of our room).

For Auro 3D this would have front height speakers in ceiling above my left/right speakers and side height speakers in ceiling above my side surrounds. My other choice would be to just use the ceiling speakers in the normal Dolby Atmos locations: two in ceiling in front of the couch in line with my L/R fronts and two in ceiling behind the couch. A possible 3rd choice would be to fudge the ceiling Auro 3D locations more toward the preferred Dolby Atmos locations to attempt a workable compromise.
I can't attest to how Auro-3D sounds through a "Top Front/Top Rear" ceiling speaker Atmos configuration, but like you, I've heard it can sound less than optimal, but certainly if you're to believe Wilfried Van Baelen's own comments (the guy who created Auro-3D), it just sounds FANTASTIC through an Auro speaker layout (by that he meant his own production theater, of which I've seen photos and it's sides above ear height and heights 2/3 up the ceiling on the sides.

What I CAN say is how Auro-3D and Atmos sound in a "height" speaker setup in my own room (12x24x8.5). In my case, my front speakers (Front Wide + Left Main and Right Main and Left Front Height and Right Front Height) are all PSB B15 speakers save the center which is a T45 (same woofer/tweeter as B15 but with a full size cabinet and one extra woofer; I'm still trying to locate two more T45 to replace the L/R speakers; two I ordered never shipped and the seller disappeared so I ended up with only one from another person just selling one). The front height speakers are mounted on the top shelf of a book shelf on either side of the 92" screen pointing slightly downward). The rear speakers are PSB X1T (rear surround towers) and PSB CS500 (ceiling mounted rear height) and they have the same woofer/tweeter as each other and are 95% the same sound as the earlier T45/B15/S50 speakers, IMO. I have PSB S50 bipolar angled side surrounds 2/3 up the wall on the sides (can't go higher due to ceiling joist box) with Def Tech B2 bipolar surrounds below them at ear level (bipolar in these locations play evenly to front and rear rows as I have 3 rows of seating).

The 7010 (now having an issue; I've got a 7012 coming Sunday to replace it) powered the bed speakers (7 speakers) and my old Yamaha powered the front and rear heights (front because I use an active mixer to create a "dialog lift" effect for the projection screen so dialog appears to come from just below center height on the screen by mixing L/C/R into the front heights + the actual front height channels, which play at ceiling height). Due to the need to externally mix the L/C/R channels, I have to power it with the Yamaha AVR instead. The Marantz gives me no choice to with the rear heights; you HAVE to pick them or the front mains to power externally; it won't let you pick front height so those channels sit unused). My side heights are powered by the two Onkyo ES500 Pro Logic units I have to extract a "Top Middle" channel from front/rear heights (really that also means the front heights had to be externally powered to remove the middle phase sounds from those channels as well). They have 50W per channel each for the side heights. I use a Monoprice 2-in/2-out speaker selector/control box to switch the side heights between Auro-3D "surround height" (by swapping rear height with side height) and the extracted "Top middle" for Atmos/X. I can also have rear height play at the same time as surround height (driven in parallel). This means the Yamaha runs the side heights for Auro-3D instead of the Onkyo units. I could also send Top Middle to rear height instead, but that wouldn't make much sense (the Monoprice has volume adjustments so I can make sure switching the speakers keeps even volume regardless).

The Yamaha also powers the front wides which are matrixed from an active mixer combo of front + side surrounds. They blend in seamlessly, but don't standout too much in a room that's not that wide and doesn't have the material removed from the mains. Besides, Atmos uses "snap to" which tends to snap any unique sounds to the mains anyway. The 7010 supported true front wides (you had to lose a set of either rear surrounds or a set of height speakers to use them) and I tried every demo I had and the hell if I could tell any difference between the matrixed wides and true ones with that material (i.e. the wide information is typically out of phase in the mains anyway which in a narrow room puts them pretty darn close phantom image wise to where the front wides are anyway so from the MLP, I couldn't tell any noticeable difference between them. I think it sounds a bit smoother from other seating locations as the matrixed wides at least minimize the stereo pull to any given direction compared to without. I imagine in wider room, it would make a much larger difference for imaging).

So how does it sound? Pretty damn good when it was working. The Atmos helicopter demo moves smoothly around the room (you can't really tell it's not moving in perfectly straight line (as side heights are 2 feet outward compared to front/rear heights). The Atmos demos all sound great. Compared to using front/rear height alone, I now get even "rain" across the whole room with effects like that etc. The Auro-3D demo has the plane moving smoothly, etc. The positions change slightly if I use just rear height or just side height or both at the same time with it, but it sounds good either way to my ears. With quad-mic recordings, I think it's better to use the side height locations. By using the Monoprice switchbox, I can leave the AVR set to "rear height" (since Auro-3D is channel based, it makes zero difference from a location standpoint whether it's played out of the side or rear height speakers or both; it gets the same signal, unlike choosing a different "location" for various Atmos speakers whereby the renderer changes what comes out of them). I've got three movies that I have both in Atmos and native Auro-3D. Blade Runner 2049 sounded very similar either way, IMO. Auro-3D had a lack of rear sound from other than the MLP and a few height sounds seemed a little different (probably due to the lack of those speakers), but otherwise sounded similar.

But Atmos over side heights blended right in. I can't imagine them sounding night and day different from the true "top middle" location two feet over except maybe in a seat directly under the speakers (not for the better in that case, IMO). The reason is the ceiling height is so low compared to an actual cinema. The difference in angle is minimal by comparison. For that reason alone, I think Auro-3D would sound OK from Atmos ceiling speakers in a room with 8-9 foot ceilings. In an actual movie theater, the ceiling might be 20-30 feet high. That's a huge difference. You'll notice in large movie theaters with Atmos, the side surrounds are well above ear level, often halfway up or more. I think this is to minimize the angle difference BETWEEN the side surrounds and ceiling speakers. Otherwise, imaging between the two would tend to fall apart. The down side is "bed" sounds are well above ear level regardless and thus ceiling and "bed" are both "height" speakers in a sense. At home, the ceiling is so much lower that ceiling side height are very similar in height, but in wider rooms the side heights would change the imaging between front and rear (unless you had those heights much wider than normal) and you can then, of course have bed speakers at or just above ear level instead.

What I'd conclude is that in relatively narrow rooms (like my 12x24), front wides aren't really needed (although probably better with than without) and side heights work just fine instead of ceiling speaker for Atmos. Such a room works well for both Atmos and Auro-3D and X, possibly with EITHER setup. I think that in wider rooms, the front wides become more and more relevant and the differences between Atmos ceiling speakers and side height speakers becomes greater and greater due to the width separation between the two (at some point that helicopter is going to sound like it's moving diagonally to the side wall and then back diagonally again to the rear, something that panning between front mains and side surrounds and rear surrounds ALREADY DOES on any 7.1 system that isn't in a very narrow room). However, in a reverse room (24x12), the front wides are probably much more important while the top middle speakers aren't even needed (for Atmos/X at least). Such a room wouldn't need the top middle ceiling speakers for Atmos anyway so side heights would be for Auro3D only and in such a case, I'd use a speaker selector like I'm using now to swap rear height with side height (or both at the same time) and leave the overall config for front/rear height regardless. This would give you up to 9.1.4 for Atmos and/or X and 9.1 for Auro-3D (10.1 if you want to add the VOG). For a room that is both long AND wide (e.g. 24x24), 9.1.6 is the only option that will truly fill the room. You'd have to combine receivers and/or add extraction or matrix mixers to get there outside the ultra-high-end stuff. But even here, one could use a speaker selector to swap between top middle and side height if desired or in the case of the 8500H, you can save two different configurations (not a lot of native Auro 3D content, so you probably wouldn't have to load them very often).

Click THEATER (Updated: Nov-12-2019) for pics: Epson 3100 3D Projector, DaLite 92" screen, 11.1.6 (Marantz SR7012 + Yamaha HTR-5960 + Onkyo ESPro) - Dialog Lift - PSB T45/B15/S50/X1T/CS500 Speakers & Def Tech PF-1500 15" sub; 2nd Room (Updated Apr-22-2019): 48" Plasma TV, Carver AL-III, Carver C-5 Pre-Amp, Technics SH-AC500D, Dual Carver TFM-35x Amps (Active Bi-Amp), Klipsch Surrounds ; Sources: PS4, LG UP875 UHD, Nvidia Shield (KODI), ATV4K, Zidoo X9S, LD, GameCube : Props (Updated 11-01-19)
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post #2935 of 4834 Old 10-26-2018, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
To gain access to the ISF "Custom" settings (ie. same settings as with the "Custom" mode) you must:

Press/hold the INFO button for 5 seconds with the Setup - Video – Picture Adjust – ON - ISF Day setting displayed (although same settings as used with the “Custom” mode, there is a different “Gamma Coefficient” setting (not adjustable) for each of the ISF Day/Night settings). The ISF Day settings should be followed by the ISF Night settings.
Thanks, JD

Did not see that in the manual!

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post #2936 of 4834 Old 10-27-2018, 07:54 AM
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Hello, new Marantz SR6012 owner.....my trusty 7.5 year old Anthem MRX gave up the ghost. I decided
On this AVR primarily for the Audyssey Platinum (I came from using Anthem's Highly regarded room EQ)
This Marantz has a ton of new features I will probably never use. (Atmos,HEOS,CEC/ARC etc)
I fell like it's been A LONG TIME since I set-up a new AVR...things have definitely changed!!
Hopefully for the better

Unfortunately, of course, with all the new features come more settings that you can adjust, making things all that much more complicated.
Quote:
My set up is a very simple one and is not likely to change
Standard 5 speakers and 2 subs.
I use 2 mono-blocks to power the left/right speakers. (They are hooked up to the Marantz pre-amp output)
My TV is a 65" Sony 1080p and all my sources are 1080p.
No zone 2 or 3. Or B speakers
Initial set-up went great

I have a few questions if someone has time:

1)-for my setup what is the correct configuration for the "amp select/assign" for ny system. It seems as
Though there are a ton of options. Which is correct for me???
You can start with any of the Amp Assign selections which includes the speakers that you do have, even the 11.1 configuration. The final speaker configuration will be the same, no matter which you start from. When the Audyssey calibration is run, it'll detect which speakers you have and enable and disable the appropriate speaker channels. Given your 5.1 speaker configuration, starting from the default (7.1 + Zone 2) is fine.

If you haven't already, you might want to consider running the "Setup Assistant". It'll carefully test each speaker individually and step you through the other important settings.
Quote:
2)Audyssey set my Fronts to 'large full band'. I can't seem to figure out how to set them to SMALL.
They're in the Manual speaker settings menu. Selecting that menu does not change any settings other than the ones that you actually adjust. For example, selecting it won't invalidate the Audyssey calibration unless you turn on speakers which were not previously calibrated. You can turn off calibrated speakers and then turn them back on, for example.

To get to that menu, press on the remote's Setup button.
In the resulting on-screen menu, scroll down to and select "Speakers"
then select "Manual Setup"
then select "Speaker Config."
There are separate "Speaker Config." menu items for each speaker pair where you can select Large or Small.
Quote:
My center and surrounds were set small with 60 hz xover. I would ideally like to run them at 80hz
And the left/right at 60hz. I noticed that I could change ALL speakers to small with an xover of 80hz,
Which is a global xover.?
Setting the global crossover frequency to be 80 Hz should be fine for your situation, although sometimes adjusting them individually can help make your system sound better. You can raise the crossover frequency above what Audyssey chose, but don't lower it. (Often people have some speakers with crossover frequencies which are well above 80 Hz. That high a crossover frequency can be inappropriate if applied globally: frequencies above about 80 Hz can be directional, bringing inappropriate attention to the location of the subwoofer.)
Quote:
I don't really want to use 'LFE+Main' as I've have read that creates too much
Bass bloat?
Right.
Quote:
What I do want is when I play a 2channel music source is to have the subs playing/reinforcing the mains!
Setting the fronts to be Small should accomplish this.

Quote:
3) what is the best way to perform firmware updates?? USB stick or over the wireless network??
A hard-wired ethernet connection is more reliable than wireless. If running an ethernet cable is too inconvenient, a power-line network adapter is a reasonable alternative. USB firmware updating also is reasonable, but the Web site's firmware often is not updated until a month or so after a firmware update has been made available over the network. This can be an advantage if a firmware update is discovered to be too buggy, which has happened a few times recently. You can roll-back a firmware update by simply installing the previous version.
Quote:
Do I even
Need firmware updates with my simple system.
In addition to bug fixes, D&M have released a few new features as no-fee updates. Most of them have been related to 4K video support, though, so they wouldn't be relevant to you until you upgrade your TV. (Support for Dolby Vision is an example of this.)

Note that for-fee firmware upgrades (specifically, to get Atmos-3D) are separate from no-fee firmware updates. You can turn off notices about upgrades while still getting notices about updates. Considering the higher-than-usual number of bugs in recent firmware updates, you might want to turn off having them applied automatically, while keeping their notices enabled.
Quote:
4)am I correct in assuming the 'smart select" buttons on the remote are only used if you have hdmi ARC/CEC
functions???
They're useful for much more than that.

Those buttons are convenient whenever you want to configure the receiver quite differently in different situations, but don't want to have to push multiple buttons and step through several different menus to change all of the necessary settings. (E.g. sometimes disable Audyssey and DynEQ while listening to stereo.) Press and hold for a few seconds one of the "smart select" while the receiver is in one configuration, then press and hold another after you've put the receiver in the other configuration. Then a brief press will restore the desired settings.
Quote:
Thanks for any assistance, I've been reading thru this thread and I'm up to page 22.
The 6012's owner's manual can be downloaded from http://manuals.marantz.com/sr6012/na/en/

If you haven't already, please take the time to look through the Audyssey 101/FAQ. It'll help you to get a good calibration. The instructions in the equipment's owner's manual are pathetically inadequate.
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I had to reset my Marantz NR1608 yet again. I got only 12 days out of it since the last reset. the S/W apps became unresponsive again, except for the ability to turn on the unit by choosing an app such as Pandora and a station. But after doing that, I couldn't control the volume from either HEOS app or the Marantz 2016 AVR app. I tried from 2 android devices, and stopped the apps, rebooted, etc. I finally did what someone suggested to me on the 17th of Oct, on this thread: a soft reset. I did that and it all seems to be working again. Thankfully I didn't need to do a hard reset. I get tired of running thru the rigamarole of getting out the mic and redoing the Audysey calibration. sigh., this Marantz is quickly becoming a PITA.

LG OLED55B7 -LG OLED65C8 - Marantz NR1608
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post #2938 of 4834 Old 10-27-2018, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by dave1812dave View Post
I had to reset my Marantz NR1608 yet again. I got only 12 days out of it since the last reset. the S/W apps became unresponsive again, except for the ability to turn on the unit by choosing an app such as Pandora and a station. But after doing that, I couldn't control the volume from either HEOS app or the Marantz 2016 AVR app. I tried from 2 android devices, and stopped the apps, rebooted, etc. I finally did what someone suggested to me on the 17th of Oct, on this thread: a soft reset. I did that and it all seems to be working again. Thankfully I didn't need to do a hard reset. I get tired of running thru the rigamarole of getting out the mic and redoing the Audysey calibration. sigh., this Marantz is quickly becoming a PITA.
You can use the GENERAL - SAVE & LOAD settings to save a copy of the config file (which includes the Audyssey settings) to a USB drive and then load it back after doing a microprocessor reset.
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post #2939 of 4834 Old 10-27-2018, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post
Hopefully for the better

Unfortunately, of course, with all the new features come more settings that you can adjust, making things all that much more complicated.

You can start with any of the Amp Assign selections which includes the speakers that you do have, even the 11.1 configuration. The final speaker configuration will be the same, no matter which you start from. When the Audyssey calibration is run, it'll detect which speakers you have and enable and disable the appropriate speaker channels. Given your 5.1 speaker configuration, starting from the default (7.1 + Zone 2) is fine.

If you haven't already, you might want to consider running the "Setup Assistant". It'll carefully test each speaker individually and step you through the other important settings.

They're in the Manual speaker settings menu. Selecting that menu does not change any settings other than the ones that you actually adjust. For example, selecting it won't invalidate the Audyssey calibration unless you turn on speakers which were not previously calibrated. You can turn off calibrated speakers and then turn them back on, for example.

To get to that menu, press on the remote's Setup button.
In the resulting on-screen menu, scroll down to and select "Speakers"
then select "Manual Setup"
then select "Speaker Config."
There are separate "Speaker Config." menu items for each speaker pair where you can select Large or Small.

Setting the global crossover frequency to be 80 Hz should be fine for your situation, although sometimes adjusting them individually can help make your system sound better. You can raise the crossover frequency above what Audyssey chose, but don't lower it. (Often people have some speakers with crossover frequencies which are well above 80 Hz. That high a crossover frequency can be inappropriate if applied globally: frequencies above about 80 Hz can be directional, bringing inappropriate attention to the location of the subwoofer.)

Right.
Thank You very much Seldon for taking the time to answer my questions!!!

I've downloaded the owners manual onto my iPad and managed to get thru most of it.
I'm familiar with Audyssey, it's in use on my older Marantz and i actually got pretty proficient
Running ARC on my Anthem. The set-up assistant worked great for me, I was impressed with it.

I think I will disable the auto firmware updates for now. I've got a long Ethernet cable somewhere.

Thanks again!!

(Main)-Marantz 6012*Outlaw Audio M2200*Rythmik F12 subs*Paradigm Signature S6,C1,S1
******Harman Kardon DMC1000 (music)-Assassin HTPC (movies).
(Bedroom)-Marantz SR5003*Paradigm Studio 40,SE Center,SE One*SVS SB-2000 subs*Sony S6200
(Music room)-Outlaw Audio RR2150*Sierra Two ribbon speakers*Rythmik L12 sub*Yamaha CDR-HD1500
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post #2940 of 4834 Old 10-27-2018, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
You can use the GENERAL - SAVE & LOAD settings to save a copy of the config file (which includes the Audyssey settings) to a USB drive and then load it back after doing a microprocessor reset.
I didn't mention that on Oct 16th when I had the first issue needing a reset, I couldn't even do a SAVE. That was part of the issue going on with the unit. Subsequent to that, I have done one Save after the reset and re-do of Audysesy. (sp?)

LG OLED55B7 -LG OLED65C8 - Marantz NR1608
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