The "OFFICIAL" Yamaha RX-A870 / RX-A770 / RX-A670 Aventage AVR Owners' Thread - Page 12 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #331 of 528 Old 06-23-2018, 06:07 PM
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I can see the osd but not the first 10 or or so characters... Looks like the menu is shufted too far left.
Meant shifted too far left.
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post #332 of 528 Old 07-03-2018, 07:31 PM
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Any of you struggled with W3 warning in YPAO?? I did for several days and could not believe that it was the Kilpsch 8SW subwoofer having too strong a presence in my layout. The Kilpsch was a resent add-on and the 8" size smallish by most peoples standards, at least, I thought. I set up the sub per the manual's suggestion and could not get past the W3 warning out of level range. Didn't make sense; plus it showed the other speakers blinking in various combinations. I tried many scenarios over three days. Late this morning, I reduced the gain on the sub to about 1/3 rotation from zero. Bingo, the warning was gone and the db adjustments were significantly different. I returned my speakers to their original positions and ran it again. The sub was still at -10db, which is the limit. Now, at least, I have a very balanced "Atmos capable" system. Now to tweak and see if it was even worth it ........ LOL

Happy 4th to us Yanks.

Samsung UN82MU8000 4K UHD TV | Onkyo TX NR787 9.2 AVR with Klipsch R-15M L&R and R-34C front stage speakers | Klipsch G-12 surrounds | 2 Atrium 5 Front Tops | 2 Klipsch R-14SA Rear heights | Dual BIC RtR EV-1200 Subs | 5.1.4 Atmos system | Samsung UBD M9500 BD Player | FireTV 4K | Logitech Harmony 750 | TIVO BOLT OTA 849000
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post #333 of 528 Old 07-03-2018, 07:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Meant shifted too far left.
Quick tip: you can edit your previous topic posts, you don't have to post again to correct something.
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post #334 of 528 Old 07-04-2018, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck666 View Post
Any of you struggled with W3 warning in YPAO?? I did for several days and could not believe that it was the Kilpsch 8SW subwoofer having too strong a presence in my layout. The Kilpsch was a resent add-on and the 8" size smallish by most peoples standards, at least, I thought. I set up the sub per the manual's suggestion and could not get past the W3 warning out of level range. Didn't make sense; plus it showed the other speakers blinking in various combinations. I tried many scenarios over three days. Late this morning, I reduced the gain on the sub to about 1/3 rotation from zero. Bingo, the warning was gone and the db adjustments were significantly different. I returned my speakers to their original positions and ran it again. The sub was still at -10db, which is the limit. Now, at least, I have a very balanced "Atmos capable" system. Now to tweak and see if it was even worth it ........ LOL

Happy 4th to us Yanks.
Most subs are very efficient and in many cases, the sub gain knob should start out at 9 o'clock (ie. 1/4) instead of 12 o'clock (ie. 1/2) and actually in some cases, it needs to be set at 7 o'clock.
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post #335 of 528 Old 07-04-2018, 10:07 AM
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Thanks, jdsmoothie..

That is a well keep secret from newbies..... Should I rerun YPAO with a lesser gain value trying to achieve a smaller db compensation? It's -10db now.

Happy 4th............

Samsung UN82MU8000 4K UHD TV | Onkyo TX NR787 9.2 AVR with Klipsch R-15M L&R and R-34C front stage speakers | Klipsch G-12 surrounds | 2 Atrium 5 Front Tops | 2 Klipsch R-14SA Rear heights | Dual BIC RtR EV-1200 Subs | 5.1.4 Atmos system | Samsung UBD M9500 BD Player | FireTV 4K | Logitech Harmony 750 | TIVO BOLT OTA 849000
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post #336 of 528 Old 07-04-2018, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Chuck666 View Post
Thanks, jdsmoothie..

That is a well keep secret from newbies..... Should I rerun YPAO with a lesser gain value trying to achieve a smaller db compensation? It's -10db now.

Happy 4th............
Egads, YES. You've got the sub way too high if the AVR is at its max (?) limit of compensation.

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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Most subs are very efficient and in many cases, the sub gain knob should start out at 9 o'clock (ie. 1/4) instead of 12 o'clock (ie. 1/2) and actually in some cases, it needs to be set at 7 o'clock.
General rule of thumb, after initial setting that @jdsmoothie suggested above, is to adjust the sub gain a wee bit, then run YPAO again, adjust the sub gain a wee bit again, run YPAO again, et cetera,... until the YPAO suggested compensation is +/- 2 db. If you like to leave the sub in an "AUTO ON" setting, I shoot for +2 dB so that the AVR is sending a slightly stronger than median signal to "wake" it. You can always trim it down in the AVR options if it's booming a bit much in a particular movie.

Happy Fourth.

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post #337 of 528 Old 07-04-2018, 11:35 AM
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TY CJ,

Second try at 8:30 clock, +2.5db. OK for now, on Auto pwr. Now, I corrected spk to ALL SMALL and set xover to 80? Believe that is the method?

Now, I have an SPL meter. I believe all readings should be similar when I check them? I did this earlier before you answered, and know some were not close? How close should one expect? And, if adjusting, change the "level"?

SORRY FOR THE 4th Interruption!!!!!

EDIT all spkrs within abt 2.5 db, except SW. 63.5-66 for them. SW AT 40 barely.. I know the level cntl won't do enough; back to sw gain cntl or what? A conundrum? Ideas.

Samsung UN82MU8000 4K UHD TV | Onkyo TX NR787 9.2 AVR with Klipsch R-15M L&R and R-34C front stage speakers | Klipsch G-12 surrounds | 2 Atrium 5 Front Tops | 2 Klipsch R-14SA Rear heights | Dual BIC RtR EV-1200 Subs | 5.1.4 Atmos system | Samsung UBD M9500 BD Player | FireTV 4K | Logitech Harmony 750 | TIVO BOLT OTA 849000

Last edited by Chuck666; 07-04-2018 at 11:46 AM.
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post #338 of 528 Old 07-04-2018, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck666 View Post
Thanks, jdsmoothie..

That is a well keep secret from newbies..... Should I rerun YPAO with a lesser gain value trying to achieve a smaller db compensation? It's -10db now.

Happy 4th............
With a final result closer to 0dB (eg. +/-3dB), the sub is more likely to power on if set to AUTO.
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post #339 of 528 Old 07-04-2018, 03:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Chuck666 View Post
TY CJ,

Second try at 8:30 clock, +2.5db. OK for now, on Auto pwr. Now, I corrected spk to ALL SMALL and set xover to 80? Believe that is the method?

Now, I have an SPL meter. I believe all readings should be similar when I check them? I did this earlier before you answered, and know some were not close? How close should one expect? And, if adjusting, change the "level"?

SORRY FOR THE 4th Interruption!!!!!

EDIT all spkrs within abt 2.5 db, except SW. 63.5-66 for them. SW AT 40 barely.. I know the level cntl won't do enough; back to sw gain cntl or what? A conundrum? Ideas.
Depending upon your main speakers you can set the bass crossover higher, or lower, than the Dolby recommended default of 80 Hz. It really depends upon the capabilities of your main speakers.

If you're playing with an SPL, you may be over-tweaking to hit some numbers, instead of just getting it sounding "right" to you. Use the test tone (it may be different in "Settings," "Manual," "Levels" than in Settings/Manual/PEQ) and cycle through all the speakers while sitting in your MLP. Do they all sound about the same? If so, fine, don't change them; watch some movies instead, notice if you can hear music, dialog, surround effects clearly. (N.B. Some movies the dialog/center channel can be a bit muted, i find that I have to boost dialog 1 dB in 1 out of 5 movies. Maybe that's why Yamaha includes a "Dialog Adjust" option. )

Rather than testing with an SPL, I use frequency sweeps from audiocheck.net or a test CD like the Boston Acoustic Society sells (a version comes free with Hsu Research subwoofers). With the subwoofer turned off, and base management turned off (all speakers set to "large"), I played descending low frequency sweeps as well as discrete ULF test tones. Now technically my old Bose 401s can play down to something like 60 hz, due to a tuned bass reflex chamber and tuned port, but they're not reliable. The point where the 401s stop playing ULF tones consistently -- they kind fade out and in again -- is something like 90 hz. So I have my bass crossover at 110 hz, a good 20 hz before the speakers lose their abilities, and a point where my Hsu VTF2 subwoofer produces tones confidently and clearly.

Only takes a little while and some discerning listening to detect this. Another good test to judge the results? The "Special Edition" of Star Wars (1977) when the Millenium Falcon is being tractored into the Death Star and Han Solo turns off the engines and boasts, "They won't get ME without a fight," and Obi-wan talks sense into him, "There ARE alternatives." Nice, clean, smooth, loooooowwww ULF tones as the engines "spool down." You can hear it smoothly descending all the way to the 30 hz or so bottom. (I hope my memory of this is correct.) If you don't have a copy of the BD or DVD, your local public library surely does.

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post #340 of 528 Old 07-05-2018, 09:53 AM
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Thanks CJ, for insightful description of alternatives.

Quick background summary of my situation; I started in the Atmos forum for guidance on my quest to upgrade. Those guys convinced me that I needed to change my speaker locations to better define the listening area. Which, I did last weekend. Next, they convinced me that I needed to add a "real SW". I added the Klipsch R8SW 8" subwoofer. That brought me to this forum to "fix/understand" the W3 warning message from my new A670 AVR. What I didn't mention in this forum was that I use Bose Accoutimass 3 and 7's for other 5 speakers and Onkyo 410's for the Presence speakers.

I am now struggling to get the very best 5.1 system sound, before tuning for Atmos. As CJ noted above, I may be trying to be "too" discrete in achieving that goal. It's hard to be subjective when you have worn an ole Engineer's hat for 51 years. Also, at 75, I have less than perfect hearing. But, there is only me to please in my MLP.. LOL. Don't trust me ears, much.

I wondered yesterday if part of my problem is that the Bose base/bass modules are causing conflicts with my new SW? Again, NOT an audiophile, and don't know enough speaker theory to separate fact from fiction?

@CJ, most of my YPAO test results have almost identical results for the 7 speakers and variable results for the SW. So, I've accepted those values for the 7 and have been experimenting (OMG, HA) with SW gain. Thought I had a good setting (10 oc) and then played Dr Strange on Netflix. Got what seemed rumbling, so turned ti down to 9:30 oc.. I believe that is what you meant from the above post?

Let it rain ideas and feedback. This is just good brain teasing!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Samsung UN82MU8000 4K UHD TV | Onkyo TX NR787 9.2 AVR with Klipsch R-15M L&R and R-34C front stage speakers | Klipsch G-12 surrounds | 2 Atrium 5 Front Tops | 2 Klipsch R-14SA Rear heights | Dual BIC RtR EV-1200 Subs | 5.1.4 Atmos system | Samsung UBD M9500 BD Player | FireTV 4K | Logitech Harmony 750 | TIVO BOLT OTA 849000
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post #341 of 528 Old 07-05-2018, 11:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry, what I gave you above was more than enough to get you started on your own experimentation. If you try to over-engineer this you’ll never get it “just right” as there is no such thing. Just what works for you.

Yes, if the sub was “rumbling” and burbling outside of any sounds in the movie, turn it down. IMHO you shouldn’t usually “hear” the sub, just notice more ULF bottom for other bass sounds than when it’s turned off.

Oh, one more point: ditch the Acoustimass crap. Use it in a bathroom or garage apartment. Once you move to one of these AVRs and real speakers, the newer Bose stuff will just muddy up the sound.
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post #342 of 528 Old 07-06-2018, 08:17 AM
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Sorry, what I gave you above was more than enough to get you started on your own experimentation. If you try to over-engineer this you’ll never get it “just right” as there is no such thing. Just what works for you.

Yes, if the sub was “rumbling” and burbling outside of any sounds in the movie, turn it down. IMHO you shouldn’t usually “hear” the sub, just notice more ULF bottom for other bass sounds than when it’s turned off.

Oh, one more point: ditch the Acoustimass crap. Use it in a bathroom or garage apartment. Once you move to one of these AVRs and real speakers, the newer Bose stuff will just muddy up the sound.

"Oh, one more point: ditch the Acoustimass crap. Use it in a bathroom or garage apartment. Once you move to one of these AVRs and real speakers, the newer Bose stuff will just muddy up the sound.[/QUOTE]"


The above cannot be emphasized enough !


Cheers
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post #343 of 528 Old 07-06-2018, 09:47 AM
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@ChromeJob TY.

That's the kind of affirmation I needed. LOL Just hard to recycle 22 year old $1200 POS speakers... LOL

Now to speakers to update and match me ole ears..

Quest time...

Samsung UN82MU8000 4K UHD TV | Onkyo TX NR787 9.2 AVR with Klipsch R-15M L&R and R-34C front stage speakers | Klipsch G-12 surrounds | 2 Atrium 5 Front Tops | 2 Klipsch R-14SA Rear heights | Dual BIC RtR EV-1200 Subs | 5.1.4 Atmos system | Samsung UBD M9500 BD Player | FireTV 4K | Logitech Harmony 750 | TIVO BOLT OTA 849000
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post #344 of 528 Old 07-12-2018, 10:23 PM
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Ok I finally got to hook up my audio equipment.

Equipment is in my signature.

Everything is working fine except no sound through the AVR using the LG TV Netflix app.

I have the ARC to ARC connected. The Bluray and Satellite are running to the AVR.

Any ideas?

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post #345 of 528 Old 07-17-2018, 01:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok I finally got to hook up my audio equipment. ... Equipment is in my signature. ... Everything is working fine except no sound through the AVR using the LG TV Netflix app.

I have the ARC to ARC connected. The Bluray and Satellite are running to the AVR. ... Any ideas?
HDMI-ARC connected, yes. HDMI-ARC, enabled on both TV and AVR...? Check that on both devices.

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post #346 of 528 Old 07-17-2018, 02:28 PM
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I'm picking up a pair of JBL Studio 590s and they are 6ohm but the Yamaha A770 says minimum impedance 8ohms, is that accurate?? Never heard of that from a nice mid range receiver and was looking to get this unit if it goes on sale anywhere. It is between that or the Denon AVR-X3400H.
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post #347 of 528 Old 07-17-2018, 03:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm picking up a pair of JBL Studio 590s and they are 6ohm but the Yamaha A770 says minimum impedance 8ohms, is that accurate?? Never heard of that from a nice mid range receiver and was looking to get this unit if it goes on sale anywhere. It is between that or the Denon AVR-X3400H.
Don't sweat it. Most Yamahas have an Advanced Setup option to adjust for lower ohm speakers (by reducing internal voltages), but it's solely there to pass UL stress testing. In normal operation, the default setting will be better, just don't turn the AVR volume up to "11." (Spinal Tap reference)

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post #348 of 528 Old 07-18-2018, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Majicpanda View Post
I'm picking up a pair of JBL Studio 590s and they are 6ohm but the Yamaha A770 says minimum impedance 8ohms, is that accurate?? Never heard of that from a nice mid range receiver and was looking to get this unit if it goes on sale anywhere. It is between that or the Denon AVR-X3400H.
As noted on p. 17 of the A770 Owner's manual ....



Although as ChromeJob noted, you're best served not changing from the default 8-ohm setting, regardless of the speaker impedance.
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post #349 of 528 Old 07-19-2018, 12:07 PM
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The latest Vizio Firmware update 4.1.2.3 has resolved the inability of our AVRs to pass 4K 60Hz HDR into the display. My PS4 Pro and Roku Ultra are now performing as expected. It just should not have taken Vizio this long. Miss you Matt McCrae.

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post #350 of 528 Old 07-21-2018, 09:32 AM
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I just setup my new Yamaha receiver yesterday. I would like to find out if there is a way to have the front panel display the sound format or what the input is. For instance, right now when I am watching TV, the panel displays HDMI1 and ----- in the front. If I watch a blu-ray movie, it shows blu-ray on the panel.

I previously had an Onkyo TX-SR606 receiver and when watching TV, it would display CBL/SAT on the panel. I'm guess though that because one of the inputs on the back was actually labeled CBL/SAT, that is what the panel displayed. When watching a movie though, the panel would display the sound format (i.e. Dolby Tru HD, DTS, etc.). Even a Google image search for Yamaha RX-A670 shows that the panel can display Dolby Atmos (although some reviews of this receiver have supposedly mentioned that this doesn't actually display). The Onkyo receiver had a display button on the panel to change what was shown. I don't see this same thing on the Yamaha receiver or on the remote.

Also, for HD broadcast TV, is there only supposed to be 2 channel stereo sound?
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post #351 of 528 Old 07-21-2018, 11:50 AM
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I've read this entire thread and given myself a headache studying the manual for my RX-A770.

I want some clarification and confirmation on some of the settings.

When I set the sound to "straight" it will play the source as it is recorded or broadcast? Meaning 5.1 shows from my dish will play in 5.1, Dolby Atmos sources will play in Atmos, etc?

If the source is Dolby Atmos from Neflix TV app or Bluray will it automatically play Atmos or only under certain settings?

The manual isn't 100% clear on certain things for someone who is a complete novice to AVR's.

I have a 5.2.2 set-up with two ceiling speakers and want to make sure I'm getting the sound I was hoping for.

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post #352 of 528 Old 07-21-2018, 12:30 PM
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I've read this entire thread and given myself a headache studying the manual for my RX-A770.

I want some clarification and confirmation on some of the settings.

When I set the sound to "straight" it will play the source as it is recorded or broadcast? Meaning 5.1 shows from my dish will play in 5.1, Dolby Atmos sources will play in Atmos, etc?

If the source is Dolby Atmos from Neflix TV app or Bluray will it automatically play Atmos or only under certain settings?

The manual isn't 100% clear on certain things for someone who is a complete novice to AVR's.

I have a 5.2.2 set-up with two ceiling speakers and want to make sure I'm getting the sound I was hoping for.
In addition to using the "Straight" setting, you must also ensure the source is set to "bitstream" with Secondary Audio/Mix set to "OFF."
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post #353 of 528 Old 07-21-2018, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by cb2367 View Post
I just setup my new Yamaha receiver yesterday. I would like to find out if there is a way to have the front panel display the sound format or what the input is. For instance, right now when I am watching TV, the panel displays HDMI1 and ----- in the front. If I watch a blu-ray movie, it shows blu-ray on the panel.

I previously had an Onkyo TX-SR606 receiver and when watching TV, it would display CBL/SAT on the panel. I'm guess though that because one of the inputs on the back was actually labeled CBL/SAT, that is what the panel displayed. When watching a movie though, the panel would display the sound format (i.e. Dolby Tru HD, DTS, etc.). Even a Google image search for Yamaha RX-A670 shows that the panel can display Dolby Atmos (although some reviews of this receiver have supposedly mentioned that this doesn't actually display). The Onkyo receiver had a display button on the panel to change what was shown. I don't see this same thing on the Yamaha receiver or on the remote.

Also, for HD broadcast TV, is there only supposed to be 2 channel stereo sound?
The A770 is the lowest model that can rename the inputs to your desired name (eg. CBL/SAT),otherwise, per p. 49 in the Owner's manual, to change the information displayed on the front panel, press the INFO button on the front panel.

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post #354 of 528 Old 07-21-2018, 08:29 PM
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Audio Dropping Out

I purchased an A770 from accessories4less a couple weeks ago. I mostly use my LG smartTV's apps (Netflix, Hulu, YouTube TV), but also have a Blu-ray player and Roku connected.

In the past few days, I've started seeing issues with the audio dropping out for half a second. It's rather random. It can sometimes be several minutes between instances but in the case of the video linked below, it happened three times in 15 seconds. I zoomed in on the receiver so y'all could see the Left and Right channel indicators flashing off and on. Video on the TV is playing smoothly the entire time.

This is only occurring (so far) via the Netflix app on the smartTV. It does not occur when using the Netflix app on the Roku.

It's my first time using HDMI ARC. I initially had some issues getting ARC to work but the firmware update (it's at the latest version, 2.58) or a series of reboots and HDMI cable reconnects seemed to have resolved it.


Any ideas on the issue? Do I just have a lemon A770?
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post #355 of 528 Old 07-22-2018, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fogelsong View Post
I purchased an A770 from accessories4less a couple weeks ago. I mostly use my LG smartTV's apps (Netflix, Hulu, YouTube TV), but also have a Blu-ray player and Roku connected.

In the past few days, I've started seeing issues with the audio dropping out for half a second. It's rather random. It can sometimes be several minutes between instances but in the case of the video linked below, it happened three times in 15 seconds. I zoomed in on the receiver so y'all could see the Left and Right channel indicators flashing off and on. Video on the TV is playing smoothly the entire time.

This is only occurring (so far) via the Netflix app on the smartTV. It does not occur when using the Netflix app on the Roku.

It's my first time using HDMI ARC. I initially had some issues getting ARC to work but the firmware update (it's at the latest version, 2.58) or a series of reboots and HDMI cable reconnects seemed to have resolved it.

Any ideas on the issue? Do I just have a lemon A770?
General rule of thumb when buying a unit first owned by someone else is to first INITIALIZE the unit before setting it up so all settings are returned to factory default.

ARC doesn't always work as desired, although the issue could be a result of the HDMI cable you're using from the AVR --> TV so try replacing it. If still no joy, instead connect an optical cable from the TV --> AVR.
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post #356 of 528 Old 07-22-2018, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
General rule of thumb when buying a unit first owned by someone else is to first INITIALIZE the unit before setting it up so all settings are returned to factory default.

ARC doesn't always work as desired, although the issue could be a result of the HDMI cable you're using from the AVR --> TV so try replacing it. If still no joy, instead connect an optical cable from the TV --> AVR.
I'll give this a shot. Thanks for the suggestion!
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post #357 of 528 Old 07-22-2018, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
In addition to using the "Straight" setting, you must also ensure the source is set to "bitstream" with Secondary Audio/Mix set to "OFF."
Is there an indicator when Atmos is being broadcast?

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post #358 of 528 Old 07-30-2018, 06:28 PM
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Re:audio dropping

Sometime a slow smart tv internet speed will also cause audio issues with Netflix
Something else to rule out.
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post #359 of 528 Old 08-02-2018, 07:19 PM
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Hello guys,

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I just bought a rx-a770, and it only came with a basic manual (the 120 page or so manual I can find online is not in the box). Do they not give a manual anymore to save paper or something? I can look online, but I am a bit old school and find it great to have a hard copy.

Thanks for the help!
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post #360 of 528 Old 08-02-2018, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GypsyDanger View Post
Hello guys,

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I just bought a rx-a770, and it only came with a basic manual (the 120 page or so manual I can find online is not in the box). Do they not give a manual anymore to save paper or something? I can look online, but I am a bit old school and find it great to have a hard copy.

Thanks for the help!
Aaah, nvm, reading through, I saw someone else mentioned that they no longer provide a hard copy one. Ugh! Oh well....
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