NAD 758 v3 - Page 301 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9001 of 9927 Old 07-10-2019, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tparm View Post
Yep, done and displayed when choosing the recording source.

SVS suspects it is due to using their wireless adapter for my sub. Will connect via "hard wire" LFE and retest.
You've the nail on the head, wireless adapters add a considerable delay. If at all possible - hardwire.

Regards, Mike.
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post #9002 of 9927 Old 07-10-2019, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
The NAD mic does have a calibration file, and it should be used. If you've installed Dirac Live for NAD, you already have it on your computer. It needs to be loaded at the beginning of Dirac.
Different calibration files for different NAD mics?

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post #9003 of 9927 Old 07-10-2019, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tparm View Post
All good suggestions. I asked about the mic (or adapter) being the issue and they didn't feel that is the case. Also the NAD supplied mic plugs into the USB output on the back of the receiver or directly into a computer, not the front of the receiver. Thought about ordering a UMIK-1 but if it is truly DSP then that won't make a difference. When I used Audyssey on my Marantz prepro (via the app) I always had to go back in and adjust the level as it was set wayyyyy too low according to my ears and SPL meter. It also measured at 24' from my listening position and it was 2' (behind sofa of main listening position) so they may be on to something......

I've never had an issue with measurements and I also use an SVS sub. I'm sure it would be quite easy to find lots of other users in this thread using SVS subs as well with no issue. I'm skeptical the sub would have anything to do with your particular problem.
I have dual SVS PC 4000 with my NAD and no issues other than people complaining about the walls shaking &#x1f642;
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post #9004 of 9927 Old 07-10-2019, 02:51 PM
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My still under warranty 758 has the dreaded Atmos speaker hiss and after hearing a recording of the hiss, the NAD customer service representative said I likely have a bad AM230 card. My nearest NAD service facility (in the Chicago area) would involve at least 5 hours on the road to deliver it and another 5+ hours to pick it up.

I'm out of the country on vacation for 3 weeks in August and my plan is to ship the 758 in for service just before I leave, hoping it will have been returned to me by the time I get back. I know nothing about the NAD approved service centers in the Chicago area, but my past service experience indicates some facilities are just quicker at getting a job done than others.

Since I'm shipping the receiver off to somewhere, I'd prefer to send it to a repair place that has dealt with this issue before and can get the parts ordered, installed and the unit returned to me reasonably quickly. Can anyone here who has had their AM230 card repaired or replaced recommend a service center to me. Apparently NAD does not have a "factory" service center in the US.

Thanks for any suggestions. Please feel free to post or PM, if you'd prefer.

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post #9005 of 9927 Old 07-10-2019, 05:44 PM
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Pretty pleased at the moment! Ran LFE cable to my sub, ran Dirac again via mic to laptop and there you go.... Have to say, Dirac guys were responsive and easy to communicate with, but SVS client service is second to none. The few times I have reached out they are on top of it, super knowledgeable and helpful. Kudos to those guys.

And thanks to you all for helping me out and your patience.

Time to listen.....
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post #9006 of 9927 Old 07-10-2019, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tparm View Post
Pretty pleased at the moment! Ran LFE cable to my sub, ran Dirac again via mic to laptop and there you go.... Have to say, Dirac guys were responsive and easy to communicate with, but SVS client service is second to none. The few times I have reached out they are on top of it, super knowledgeable and helpful. Kudos to those guys.

And thanks to you all for helping me out and your patience.

Time to listen.....
Yes, Dirac and SVS both have excellent customer support. I will heartily endorse KEF USA as being every bit as good as SVS, I have all of them.
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post #9007 of 9927 Old 07-10-2019, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tparm View Post
Pretty pleased at the moment! Ran LFE cable to my sub, ran Dirac again via mic to laptop and there you go.... Have to say, Dirac guys were responsive and easy to communicate with, but SVS client service is second to none. The few times I have reached out they are on top of it, super knowledgeable and helpful. Kudos to those guys.

And thanks to you all for helping me out and your patience.

Time to listen.....
Awesome!! & your levels look a lot better too bud!! Only wish my room measured as good as your LOL!!
Enjoy!!
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post #9008 of 9927 Old 07-11-2019, 12:11 AM
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I have run into a new issue with my T758.

When using the coaxial/optical outputs, and the analog input is switched OFF the following happens:
There is a static white noise that gets louder with the volume ( This also reduced when the volume is reduced)
When I switch the analogue input back ON the noise stops.
This removes the hiss when the music is stopped, but now there is a slight pops every-time between tracks as it will look for analogue and then back to digital.

Has anyone else experienced this?
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post #9009 of 9927 Old 07-11-2019, 07:54 AM
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Okay, so I'm having a video quality issue when trying to play 4k content on my fire tv stick 4k. This may not have anything to do with the T758 at all, but it is plugged directly into the back of the unit, so I just thought I'd check here to see if anyone else uses a firestick 4k as well.


I've posted in the streaming section of the forum, and the fire stick thread, but haven't had any responses, so maybe I can get somewhere here. It's hard to give a perfectly clear example of the issue when trying to take a picture of the TV, but if you focus on the sky in the background of the image I attached, hopefully you can see what I mean. There's like a wavy outline, and then another line above that following the same curve, and another above that, and so on. Instead of having a smooth clear picture of the sky, it's basically in pixelated sections instead. Is this compression / "blocking"?



The reason I'm thinking it has to be an issue with either the fire stick or the AVR, rather than what most people would point to first (connection speed), is because the same visual issues DON'T happen if I play 4k content straight through my internal TV apps. Everything is setup on the same wi-fi and my internet speed is 600mbps.


Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting? Anyone else that also uses a fire stick plugged directly into their NAD that can see if they have any issues?
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post #9010 of 9927 Old 07-11-2019, 08:06 AM
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It's likely the fault of the Fire Stick as the NAD doesn't touch the video (hence why there's no GUI overlay)
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post #9011 of 9927 Old 07-11-2019, 09:38 AM
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Any nad /dirac gurus care to look over my results and help me make the most out of it, please?
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post #9012 of 9927 Old 07-11-2019, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by sb01gt View Post
Okay, so I'm having a video quality issue when trying to play 4k content on my fire tv stick 4k. This may not have anything to do with the T758 at all, but it is plugged directly into the back of the unit, so I just thought I'd check here to see if anyone else uses a firestick 4k as well.


I've posted in the streaming section of the forum, and the fire stick thread, but haven't had any responses, so maybe I can get somewhere here. It's hard to give a perfectly clear example of the issue when trying to take a picture of the TV, but if you focus on the sky in the background of the image I attached, hopefully you can see what I mean. There's like a wavy outline, and then another line above that following the same curve, and another above that, and so on. Instead of having a smooth clear picture of the sky, it's basically in pixelated sections instead. Is this compression / "blocking"?



The reason I'm thinking it has to be an issue with either the fire stick or the AVR, rather than what most people would point to first (connection speed), is because the same visual issues DON'T happen if I play 4k content straight through my internal TV apps. Everything is setup on the same wi-fi and my internet speed is 600mbps.


Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting? Anyone else that also uses a fire stick plugged directly into their NAD that can see if they have any issues?
This is commonly referred to as "banding" and is seen when taking an image with a gradient from 16-bit depth down to 8-bit, to give an example. It can also be more prevalent with compression.

Can you stream the same scene from the Fire stick plugged into the TV to help diagnose?
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post #9013 of 9927 Old 07-11-2019, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
This is commonly referred to as "banding" and is seen when taking an image with a gradient from 16-bit depth down to 8-bit, to give an example. It can also be more prevalent with compression.

Can you stream the same scene from the Fire stick plugged into the TV to help diagnose?

Just tested with it plugged straight into the TV and picture quality was the same. Good to know the proper technical term for this now, maybe I'll be able to do some better research on if it's curable. I guess this also narrows it down to being a fire stick problem though.

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post #9014 of 9927 Old 07-11-2019, 04:08 PM
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Any nad /dirac gurus care to look over my results and help me make the most out of it, please?
Dirac welcomes clients to DropBox your project to their client service e-mail and they will review it and offer input. If you have questions I highly recommend it.

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post #9015 of 9927 Old 07-11-2019, 09:25 PM
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Dirac welcomes clients to DropBox your project to their client service e-mail and they will review it and offer input. If you have questions I highly recommend it.
I did not know that!
Many thanks.
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post #9016 of 9927 Old 07-14-2019, 11:37 AM
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I just got the NAD 758 V3 and am ready to run calibrations!


#1 - Do I unplug the BluOS thing and plug the mic in that USB? Or do I plug mic into one of the extra USB's on BluOS hub?


#2 I already own a UMIK-1 - forgive my ignorance: When I got the UMIK a few years ago I did download 90 degree cal file and installed it. But I no longer have that computer. I just downloaded the 90 degree file again, buy my computer is never giving me any sort of option to install it. Since I had done it before, is it already installed in the mic? So I should be able to just plug my UMIK into the NAD (or BluOS) and be good to go?


#3 without even having mic hooked up I was just screwing around and started a calibration.. I noticed it played sound through FL speaker and asked me to set volume. Anything over -20 is almost deafening. How loud should I set it for calibration?
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I just got the NAD 758 V3 and am ready to run calibrations!


#1 - Do I unplug the BluOS thing and plug the mic in that USB? Or do I plug mic into one of the extra USB's on BluOS hub?


#2 I already own a UMIK-1 - forgive my ignorance: When I got the UMIK a few years ago I did download 90 degree cal file and installed it. But I no longer have that computer. I just downloaded the 90 degree file again, buy my computer is never giving me any sort of option to install it. Since I had done it before, is it already installed in the mic? So I should be able to just plug my UMIK into the NAD (or BluOS) and be good to go?


#3 without even having mic hooked up I was just screwing around and started a calibration.. I noticed it played sound through FL speaker and asked me to set volume. Anything over -20 is almost deafening. How loud should I set it for calibration?
https://live.dirac.com/content/uploa...nt-version.pdf
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post #9018 of 9927 Old 07-14-2019, 12:11 PM
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The intended use is to have them all plugged in to the USB ports at the same time.

The calibration files aren't "installed".

I recommend connecting the UMIK-1 to your computer and telling Dirac to use that, and select the calibration file.

Dirac has on-screen instructions that help you dial in the gain/volume. But since you have a UMIK, it was recommended by someone from Dirac or NAD (can't remember) to set all your speakers to around 75dB using the speaker setup before starting Dirac so that the system doesn't have to use big offsets.

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post #9019 of 9927 Old 07-14-2019, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
The intended use is to have them all plugged in to the USB ports at the same time.

The calibration files aren't "installed".

I recommend connecting the UMIK-1 to your computer and telling Dirac to use that, and select the calibration file.

Dirac has on-screen instructions that help you dial in the gain/volume. But since you have a UMIK, it was recommended by someone from Dirac or NAD (can't remember) to set all your speakers to around 75dB using the speaker setup before starting Dirac so that the system doesn't have to use big offsets.
I believe it’s recommended by NAD to calibrate to 75db prior to running a Dirac session. Personally, I’ve never even bothered doing this as Dirac indeed sets levels & delays with the information it receives from the FIRST mic position. My trims are almost always within +/- 2db post Dirac so I don’t really believe it’s 100% necessary to set levels prior....I also use a Umik-1 mic.
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post #9020 of 9927 Old 07-14-2019, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
The intended use is to have them all plugged in to the USB ports at the same time.

The calibration files aren't "installed".

I recommend connecting the UMIK-1 to your computer and telling Dirac to use that, and select the calibration file.

Dirac has on-screen instructions that help you dial in the gain/volume. But since you have a UMIK, it was recommended by someone from Dirac or NAD (can't remember) to set all your speakers to around 75dB using the speaker setup before starting Dirac so that the system doesn't have to use big offsets.
I have always connected my Umik 1 to the NAD USB and run calibration that way...what is the benifit of connecting the Umik 1 to the computer instead as you have recommended?

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post #9021 of 9927 Old 07-14-2019, 07:28 PM
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I have always connected my Umik 1 to the NAD USB and run calibration that way...what is the benifit of connecting the Umik 1 to the computer instead as you have recommended?
It's the only way I could get it to work.
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post #9022 of 9927 Old 07-14-2019, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
The intended use is to have them all plugged in to the USB ports at the same time.

The calibration files aren't "installed".

I recommend connecting the UMIK-1 to your computer and telling Dirac to use that, and select the calibration file.

Dirac has on-screen instructions that help you dial in the gain/volume. But since you have a UMIK, it was recommended by someone from Dirac or NAD (can't remember) to set all your speakers to around 75dB using the speaker setup before starting Dirac so that the system doesn't have to use big offsets.
I have always connected my Umik 1 to the NAD USB and run calibration that way...what is the benifit of connecting the Umik 1 to the computer instead as you have recommended?
Don’t know if there are any benefits but I’ve always connected to my computer as well.
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post #9023 of 9927 Old 07-15-2019, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carminepesce View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
The intended use is to have them all plugged in to the USB ports at the same time.

The calibration files aren't "installed".

I recommend connecting the UMIK-1 to your computer and telling Dirac to use that, and select the calibration file.

Dirac has on-screen instructions that help you dial in the gain/volume. But since you have a UMIK, it was recommended by someone from Dirac or NAD (can't remember) to set all your speakers to around 75dB using the speaker setup before starting Dirac so that the system doesn't have to use big offsets.
I have always connected my Umik 1 to the NAD USB and run calibration that way...what is the benifit of connecting the Umik 1 to the computer instead as you have recommended?
Don’t know if there are any benefits but I’ve always connected to my computer as well.
Ive never had a problem with the umik in the NADs USB slot. Curious if anyone has ever compared or if NAD says one is preferred for any reason...

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post #9024 of 9927 Old 07-15-2019, 08:38 AM
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I was having challenges before because I was using phone app as opposed to computer program of Dirac. I figured everything out easily with computer program.


I have a 5.5 system


The five main speakers are all the same, 1700 emotions (bought this house recently and will replace). The five subs are Seaton F18.


Question: Do ya'll typically group the speaker and sub all together? Or would I typically group the sub by itself and apply my ski slope. Then group the five mains and maintain the typical eq it suggests? I could care less about my mains sound. I'm more concerned with sick bass.
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post #9025 of 9927 Old 07-15-2019, 08:46 AM
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I was having challenges before because I was using phone app as opposed to computer program of Dirac. I figured everything out easily with computer program.


I have a 5.5 system


The five main speakers are all the same, 1700 emotions (bought this house recently and will replace). The five subs are Seaton F18.


Question: Do ya'll typically group the speaker and sub all together? Or would I typically group the sub by itself and apply my ski slope. Then group the five mains and maintain the typical eq it suggests? I could care less about my mains sound. I'm more concerned with sick bass.

From the DIRAC target curve page http://mehlau.net/audio/dirac-live-2/



"Use the very same target curve for all your speakers including the subwoofer. Do NOT use different target curves amongst speakers."

Panasonic EZ1000 65" OLED / Panasonic DMP UB400 / NAD T758v3 / Nvidia Shield TV
5.1.2 speaker setup - KEF R300 / R600c / Q50a / Focal Chorus SR800V / HSU ULS-15 mk2
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post #9026 of 9927 Old 07-15-2019, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by sb01gt View Post
From the DIRAC target curve page http://mehlau.net/audio/dirac-live-2/

"Use the very same target curve for all your speakers including the subwoofer. Do NOT use different target curves amongst speakers."
Thanks, and I forgot about lowering the entire curb -10 or so to avoid over-boosting any frenquencies. Austin Jerry's guide is super helpful: Custom Dirac Target Curves - it's for the DDRC-88A(BM) , but i'm assuming the dirac curves work same way..
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post #9027 of 9927 Old 07-15-2019, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by sb01gt View Post
From the DIRAC target curve page http://mehlau.net/audio/dirac-live-2/



"Use the very same target curve for all your speakers including the subwoofer. Do NOT use different target curves amongst speakers."
I've commented on this before. I don't see how this makes any sense. You are not supposed to attempt to boost your speakers below their F3, yet giving them your subwoofer curve is exactly what that would do. Right?

I think your speakers would be at risk if you ever set your speakers to large, disabling your crossover.

HT: Samsung PN64H5000 (recommended settings) | NAD T758 V3 | Buchardt S400 (2) | Emotiva E2 (2) | Rythmik Audio F12 (2)
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post #9028 of 9927 Old 07-15-2019, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
I've commented on this before. I don't see how this makes any sense. You are not supposed to attempt to boost your speakers below their F3, yet giving them your subwoofer curve is exactly what that would do. Right?

I think your speakers would be at risk if you ever set your speakers to large, disabling your crossover.

I understand what you mean, and I'm certainly not an expert on any of this, but what you're saying sounds right. Because you get 5 presets available on the T758v3 along with 3 dirac filter slots, the safe bet would be to save a bass boosted filter and a standard dirac curve filter to 2 of the slots, then make sure on any of your presets where you're switching the mains from small to large also change your filter to the standard curve rather than the bass boosted one.

Panasonic EZ1000 65" OLED / Panasonic DMP UB400 / NAD T758v3 / Nvidia Shield TV
5.1.2 speaker setup - KEF R300 / R600c / Q50a / Focal Chorus SR800V / HSU ULS-15 mk2
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post #9029 of 9927 Old 07-16-2019, 07:57 PM
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T758 V3 App v0.4.0 - Display DIRAC Profile Name

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrooding View Post
@ph73 I've just submitted version 0.2.1 to Google which supports changing the AV preset. It should hopefully be available within a few hours.

...
Hi @mrooding - unfortunately my post count is insufficient to send you feedback via PM. In the latest version of your app, you have implemented a feature where the user-input DIRAC Profile Name is displayed (instead of the profile number).

On my T777 v3, the DIRAC Profile Name now simply shows "Off" no matter what profile is selected (I have checked on the OSD of the AVR that the DIRAC profile is indeed selected and not off). Not sure if it's a compatibility issue with my T777 v3 or if my given name for the profile is too long i.e. "Sofa Focused (NAD Target Curve)".

Just thought that you would like to know

Cheers,
Nicholas
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post #9030 of 9927 Old 07-17-2019, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by poleepkwa View Post
I have run into a new issue with my T758.

When using the coaxial/optical outputs, and the analog input is switched OFF the following happens:
There is a static white noise that gets louder with the volume ( This also reduced when the volume is reduced)
When I switch the analogue input back ON the noise stops.
This removes the hiss when the music is stopped, but now there is a slight pops every-time between tracks as it will look for analogue and then back to digital.

Has anyone else experienced this?

I have a similar problem. I get a very annoying and random beep from surround channels when using the Optical inputs (any of them). I also get humming (not loud enough as to not enjoy the sound experience, but still) from my external amp when using the analogue outs from the Nad. Don´t get the hum when the amp is connected to my Yamaha receiver, using same cables.


I guess Nad did cut some costs in analogue and optical inputs to be able to sell the T758 for this price. This inputs really look cheap and they´re the most likely cause for this issues.
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