Marantz AV8805 15.2 XLR Pre/Pro Official Thread - Page 114 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3391 of 4099 Old 03-06-2019, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekohn00 View Post
Ethernet splitters are flaky. Get rid of it and see if the 8805 works. You may have to reset the Ethernet.
If it works, then you know it may have been the splitter. Invest in a 5 port switch instead.


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I actually have a 5 port switch but still took your advice. Unbelievable but 2 of the ports won’t work with the 8805. Up and running again. Thanks for the help, streaming some killer tunes as I type!
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post #3392 of 4099 Old 03-07-2019, 06:15 PM
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First post here, not even sure if I'm doing it right. LOL! I just hooked up my 8805 about a week and a half ago and I have a ton of questions. This thing does more than I could ever imagine. After calibrating the system with Audyssey it sounds freaking amazing! However, I find that the bass is lacking a little bit. I read that a lot of people kick up the bass about 3db or so to their liking. There are a few areas to increase the bass I'm not sure which one to use. What do you recommend? Tia.
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post #3393 of 4099 Old 03-08-2019, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by AudioVideoManiac View Post
First post here, not even sure if I'm doing it right. LOL! I just hooked up my 8805 about a week and a half ago and I have a ton of questions. This thing does more than I could ever imagine. After calibrating the system with Audyssey it sounds freaking amazing! However, I find that the bass is lacking a little bit. I read that a lot of people kick up the bass about 3db or so to their liking. There are a few areas to increase the bass I'm not sure which one to use. What do you recommend? Tia.
Subwoofer Level Adjust: change here becomes the current subwoofer setting for all sources (this setting now mirrors the Manual Setup - Levels - Test Tones - Subwoofer setting)

Option - Channel Level Adjust - Subwoofer: change here does not change the above setting, but rather is applied to the above setting but only for the specific source that is selected.

So for example, if the current subwoofer setting after running Audyssey is -6dB, most owners will want to increase that a few dB using the Subwoofer Level Adjust to say about -1dB which then would apply to all sources. If you then want to increase/decrease that setting for a specific source you would use the Channel Level Adjust setting. So if set to -2dB for the CBL/SAT source, with the previous -1dB Subwoofer Level Adjust setting, the actual value for that source would be -3dB (ie. -1dB reduced by -2dB to -3dB).
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post #3394 of 4099 Old 03-08-2019, 10:50 AM
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Oh, I see. This is great, I'll check it out tonight. Thank you for your help. 😉
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post #3395 of 4099 Old 03-08-2019, 11:55 AM
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When I play a CD on my Oppo 203 that's connected to my 8805 via HDMI, no music plays until I turn on my TV! The TV is connected via the Monitor2 input (non-ARC) and the HDMI Control and ARC are both set to Off.

This is annoying. Any tips?
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post #3396 of 4099 Old 03-08-2019, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo-Echo View Post
When I play a CD on my Oppo 203 that's connected to my 8805 via HDMI, no music plays until I turn on my TV! The TV is connected via the Monitor2 input (non-ARC) and the HDMI Control and ARC are both set to Off.

This is annoying. Any tips?
This issue presents from time to time depending on the TV and source device in the HDMI chain. You may want to consider adding an HDMI switch/splitter between the AVP and the TV so the EDID information from the TV is copied to the splitter/switch and the AVP sees it without the TV having to be powered on.
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post #3397 of 4099 Old 03-09-2019, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo-Echo View Post
When I play a CD on my Oppo 203 that's connected to my 8805 via HDMI, no music plays until I turn on my TV! The TV is connected via the Monitor2 input (non-ARC) and the HDMI Control and ARC are both set to Off.

This is annoying. Any tips?
I have the same issue with my Sony TV. My solution was to start with the TV on, and then if I don't want a visual, I use the Pic Off function in the Sony. This keeps the HDMI chain intact, but no image.
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post #3398 of 4099 Old 03-09-2019, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by hawkster27 View Post
I have the same issue with my Sony TV. My solution was to start with the TV on, and then if I don't want a visual, I use the Pic Off function in the Sony. This keeps the HDMI chain intact, but no image.
Same here, when I play a music only BD it insists on turning on my Sony TV. I'm also using Pic Off as a work around.

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post #3399 of 4099 Old 03-09-2019, 06:34 PM
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Switch to 7.1 Analog Inputs

I an currently running a set of 7.1 analog cables from an Oppo unit to the Marantz 7.1 Analog Inputs. How does one switch to the 7.1 Inputs via remote control or on the Front Panel of the unit. The only way I have found how to do this is either via the Marantz web interface or directly within Marantz settings. Both methods totally inconvenient ...
Thanks
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post #3400 of 4099 Old 03-09-2019, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by snaven View Post
I an currently running a set of 7.1 analog cables from an Oppo unit to the Marantz 7.1 Analog Inputs. How does one switch to the 7.1 Inputs via remote control or on the Front Panel of the unit. The only way I have found how to do this is either via the Marantz web interface or directly within Marantz settings. Both methods totally inconvenient ...
Thanks
If you are using HDMI as well from the Oppo (which the vast majority of owners likely prefer as doing so allows Audyssey to be enabled while using the 7.1 inputs disables Audyssey), then set up another source name for the Oppo (eg. DVD) and select the INPUT MODE = 7.1 CH IN which should then be remembered when you select that source.
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I’m using HDMI control as it is handy that we can use any of the original component controls. One strange behavior is that I’m finding that if I’m just playing music (via an optical or analog connection - with the TV off), the unit will play fine, but eventually will switch to my DISH network source which if off, but since it is a DVR, it really is always on. Any workaround for this? Not sure what is triggering the unit to switch, but assume it is HDMI control? Thanks. SJ
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post #3402 of 4099 Old 03-12-2019, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekohn00 View Post
Ethernet splitters are flaky. Get rid of it and see if the 8805 works. You may have to reset the Ethernet.
If it works, then you know it may have been the splitter. Invest in a 5 port switch instead.
Am I the only one confused by the term 'ethernet splitter' since there's no such thing.

We used to have just 'hubs' and now we have just 'switches' (for gigabit ethernet). I could explain the difference but won't bore everyone here. In any case, both of these are designed to pass multiple simultaneous independent data streams and neither could be called flaky. Without them - no Internet.
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post #3403 of 4099 Old 03-12-2019, 08:34 AM
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Am I the only one confused by the term 'ethernet splitter' since there's no such thing.

We used to have just 'hubs' and now we have just 'switches' (for gigabit ethernet). I could explain the difference but won't bore everyone here. In any case, both of these are designed to pass multiple simultaneous independent data streams and neither could be called flaky. Without them - no Internet.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=https%3A%2F%2Fe...itch-and-a-hub
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post #3404 of 4099 Old 03-12-2019, 08:39 AM
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I confess I have not waded through all 100+ pages of this thread. I started, but then realised how many pages there are and that I'd never get through all of them. So if this question has already been asked, I do apologise.

Currently, the AV8805 has 15 output channels, but only 13 'processed' channels internally. What's stopping them from having 15 internal processed channels?

Surely that's just software? It has the hardware for the data input (HDMI) and the 15 channel output so surely the number of independent channels it can handle/process internally has to be just down to software. Or is there specific hardware required for each channel that isn't catered for with the existing 15 channel outputs?

Obviously, I want a 15.x channel processor as I think 9.2.6 is the optimum layout (I just don't think I'd be allowed to add any more speakers ), but I'd want 15 discreet channels without any internal 'fudging' (such as the current 8805 does) and for it to not cost the earth.

So, is it feasible that Marantz could 'upgrade' the 8805 to full-time 15 channel processor with just a software update?
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post #3405 of 4099 Old 03-12-2019, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by UKenGB View Post
I confess I have not waded through all 100+ pages of this thread. I started, but then realised how many pages there are and that I'd never get through all of them. So if this question has already been asked, I do apologise.

Currently, the AV8805 has 15 output channels, but only 13 'processed' channels internally. What's stopping them from having 15 internal processed channels?

Surely that's just software? It has the hardware for the data input (HDMI) and the 15 channel output so surely the number of independent channels it can handle/process internally has to be just down to software. Or is there specific hardware required for each channel that isn't catered for with the existing 15 channel outputs?

Obviously, I want a 15.x channel processor as I think 9.2.6 is the optimum layout (I just don't think I'd be allowed to add any more speakers ), but I'd want 15 discreet channels without any internal 'fudging' (such as the current 8805 does) and for it to not cost the earth.

So, is it feasible that Marantz could 'upgrade' the 8805 to full-time 15 channel processor with just a software update?
There's only enough processing power, and presumably enough DAC channels to process 13 channels at a time. The output can be routed to the desired 13 outputs at any given time, but the 13 channel limit is definitely a hardware limit.
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post #3406 of 4099 Old 03-12-2019, 11:25 PM
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why on earth would anyone use the splitter?
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post #3407 of 4099 Old 03-13-2019, 03:28 AM
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why on earth would anyone use the splitter?
Now that’s a great question!
I’ve never seen one used. And never would consider it over a switch.
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post #3408 of 4099 Old 03-16-2019, 01:30 AM
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I repeat, there’s no such thing as an Ethernet Splitter.

The example shown is a UTP splitter. That just uses the fact that 10 and 100baset only use 2 pairs which allows a single 4 pair cable to carry more than one connection. This might allow 2 Ethernet connections, or as we used to do in structured cabling installations, 1 x Ethernet and 1 x telephone. But that does NOT split the Ethernet network connection which is simply not possible. In any case, you can’t do it with Gigabit Ethernet as that uses all 4 pairs.

I say again, there’s no such thing as an Ethernet Splitter.
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post #3409 of 4099 Old 03-16-2019, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by gsr View Post
There's only enough processing power, and presumably enough DAC channels to process 13 channels at a time. The output can be routed to the desired 13 outputs at any given time, but the 13 channel limit is definitely a hardware limit.
Ok, thanks. Guess we just have to wait for an upgraded model with 15 channel processing hardware.
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post #3410 of 4099 Old 03-16-2019, 01:36 AM
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Now that’s a great question!
I’ve never seen one used. And never would consider it over a switch.
Splitting a UTP cable to carry 2 connections can be very useful although as I said no longer possible with Gigabit, but in any case it is a completely different function than a hub or switch. It’s simply not doing the same thing at all.
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So I finally got my 8805 hooked up with four Atmos speakers -- I popped in Game of Thrones on Blu-ray, which is advertised as having an Atmos soundtrack. It ran the Atmos demo when the disc first loaded, and the display on the Marantz said "Dolby Atmos". However, when the first episode played, the display then showed "Dolby D + Dolby Surround". There does not appear to be a way for me to select Atmos -- am I doing something incorrectly? Thanks in advance.
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Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post
So I finally got my 8805 hooked up with four Atmos speakers -- I popped in Game of Thrones on Blu-ray, which is advertised as having an Atmos soundtrack. It ran the Atmos demo when the disc first loaded, and the display on the Marantz said "Dolby Atmos". However, when the first episode played, the display then showed "Dolby D + Dolby Surround". There does not appear to be a way for me to select Atmos -- am I doing something incorrectly? Thanks in advance.
To get ready for April 14th, we just re-watched seasons 1 through 7 on Blu-ray. Although my current system is not Atmos capable, I discovered the default soundtrack on some Blu-ray GOT series discs is DD+. Atmos has to be selected from the Blu-ray disc audio menu. With my system, selecting Atmos resulted in Dolby TrueHD 7.1.
That's as good as it gets for my system.

Curiously, when I first purchased the GOT seasons 1-4 package on Blu-ray, the highest fidelity audio on that release was DTS HD Master, not Dolby. Don't recall if it was 5.1 or 7.1.

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post #3413 of 4099 Old 03-16-2019, 04:06 PM
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Marantz AV8805 15.2 XLR Pre/Pro Official Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post
So I finally got my 8805 hooked up with four Atmos speakers -- I popped in Game of Thrones on Blu-ray, which is advertised as having an Atmos soundtrack. It ran the Atmos demo when the disc first loaded, and the display on the Marantz said "Dolby Atmos". However, when the first episode played, the display then showed "Dolby D + Dolby Surround". There does not appear to be a way for me to select Atmos -- am I doing something incorrectly? Thanks in advance.


You have to select the Atmos track on the GOT discs either from the menu before you start the episode or changing the audio track while playing which will depend on your player

The Atmos audio sounds pretty good on those discs and obviously better with the recent seasons

Atmos isn’t always the default track for movies either so always good idea to confirm what is playing which I do from the app


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Is it worth it to include front wides I'm currently using surround backs and i do like what they add and it seems most surround uses surround backs.
should I just add front wides and still keep the back speakers I hate to lose them. I did hooked up front wides+ surround backs and they didn't make much noise even when i disabled back speakers.
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post #3415 of 4099 Old 03-17-2019, 12:26 AM
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I have not done that yet. I know when I have played stuff from HEOS in the past, it doesn’t sound that great to me compared to when I had my Parasound Halo Integrated connected in the chain. I am going back to that over the weekend so that I can listen to all of the hires streaming services in all of their glory. The Integrated has theater bypass which allows me to pass the 2 channel speakers and amplifier straight through to the Marantz when watching DirecTV or Blu-ray’s through my OPPO or Pioneer Elite 4K player. By reconnecting the Parasound, I will run the Bluesound Node2i straight in to the Parasound via optical and analog so I can compare the DAC in the Bluesound and the DAC in the Parasound and listen to music from the Parasound connected to my L and R main speakers. I have BG Radia planar magnetic towers that sound awesome with the right equipment.


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I decided to pickup a Meridian 218 from a local dealer. Very understated and undermarketed device, geared towards custom installers. Has their well regard proprietary dac with full MQA decoding. Super simple installation, plugged it in, added to roon and connected it ito the analogue bypass on the 8805. Playing Tidal, comparing to HEOS, the 218 completely changed the sound dynamics added clarity and resolution with super smooth highs and accurate bass. This is on HiFi, on MQA even better. The HEOS is a tad bass heavy and instruments like violin and piano sound more realistic and crisper with the 218.

Highly recommended, this little device punches way over its price point and pairs well with 8805.
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post #3416 of 4099 Old 03-17-2019, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDEATON View Post
To get ready for April 14th, we just re-watched seasons 1 through 7 on Blu-ray. Although my current system is not Atmos capable, I discovered the default soundtrack on some Blu-ray GOT series discs is DD+. Atmos has to be selected from the Blu-ray disc audio menu. With my system, selecting Atmos resulted in Dolby TrueHD 7.1.
That's as good as it gets for my system.

Curiously, when I first purchased the GOT seasons 1-4 package on Blu-ray, the highest fidelity audio on that release was DTS HD Master, not Dolby. Don't recall if it was 5.1 or 7.1.
Quote:
You have to select the Atmos track on the GOT discs either from the menu before you start the episode or changing the audio track while playing which will depend on your player

The Atmos audio sounds pretty good on those discs and obviously better with the recent seasons

Atmos isn’t always the default track for movies either so always good idea to confirm what is playing which I do from the app
Thanks to both of you! I watched two episodes of season 3 last night, and it sounded great!
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post #3417 of 4099 Old 03-18-2019, 09:54 AM
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Connecting two monitors

Until now I have used a 1080p projector on monitor one and a small 1080p TV as a secondary monitor for occasional use on, for example, Blu-ray Audio menus. I tried an old non-HD TV today and discovered that the Marantz reset both to the lower resolution. It was easy enough to get it all back where I wanted it, but it triggers a question: can I connect two monitors which are different resolutions and set each independently to its own resolution?


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post #3418 of 4099 Old 03-18-2019, 10:16 AM
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Until now I have used a 1080p projector on monitor one and a small 1080p TV as a secondary monitor for occasional use on, for example, Blu-ray Audio menus. I tried an old non-HD TV today and discovered that the Marantz reset both to the lower resolution. It was easy enough to get it all back where I wanted it, but it triggers a question: can I connect two monitors which are different resolutions and set each independently to its own resolution?
Short answer: NO

Long answer:

HDMI by nature requires a "handshake" between all the components in the chain, where they each report their individual capabilities. When you have the source split to two different "sinks" (endpoints), then the source is going to see the capabilities of both sinks. If one of the sinks reports "I can't accept a 1080p input signal" then the source isn't going to send it, regardless of the capabilities of the other sink. Nothing to do with the Marantz, this will happen with ANY setup with an HDMI splitter/matrix output trying to send the same source to two different sinks with non-identical capabilities.

The exact same thing happens on the audio side -- if you split an HDMI source with one sink being an AVR that can accept multichannel bitstream audio, and the other being a TV that can only accept stereo signals, then guess what? The source is going to send stereo, even though the AVR can decode multich bitstreams.
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post #3419 of 4099 Old 03-18-2019, 10:45 AM
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Short answer: NO

Long answer:

HDMI by nature requires a "handshake" between all the components in the chain, where they each report their individual capabilities. When you have the source split to two different "sinks" (endpoints), then the source is going to see the capabilities of both sinks. If one of the sinks reports "I can't accept a 1080p input signal" then the source isn't going to send it, regardless of the capabilities of the other sink. Nothing to do with the Marantz, this will happen with ANY setup with an HDMI splitter/matrix output trying to send the same source to two different sinks with non-identical capabilities.

The exact same thing happens on the audio side -- if you split an HDMI source with one sink being an AVR that can accept multichannel bitstream audio, and the other being a TV that can only accept stereo signals, then guess what? The source is going to send stereo, even though the AVR can decode multich bitstreams.
Rather what I thought. That also means that once I get a 4K projector, I shall have to use a 4K small monitor too. That is useful. Thanks.


Dave
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post #3420 of 4099 Old 03-18-2019, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DJB of Poole View Post
Until now I have used a 1080p projector on monitor one and a small 1080p TV as a secondary monitor for occasional use on, for example, Blu-ray Audio menus. I tried an old non-HD TV today and discovered that the Marantz reset both to the lower resolution. It was easy enough to get it all back where I wanted it, but it triggers a question: can I connect two monitors which are different resolutions and set each independently to its own resolution?


Dave
The only way it would work via the AVP is if you connected one of the monitors to the Zone 2 HDMI monitor output and passed a different source than what is selected for the main zone. Note, however, this is simply a pass through (ie. no video processing), so whatever the source is passing is what will be passed to the Zone 2 monitor. Another option would be using either the 2016 Marantz Remote app or a laptop/tablet using the Web Control feature.
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