Marantz AV8805 15.2 XLR Pre/Pro Official Thread - Page 171 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5101 of 5449 Old 05-17-2020, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by SAM ZEOLI View Post
I figured it out. I have a separate amp for my surround speakers and the power cord came loose in the middle of me moving my equipment rack in and out. I do have a couple of other questions. Cable and Netflix are the same volume but when I play a blue ray on my PS3 the volume is lower. When my Outlaw 990 was in the system all my sources were the same volume. Also when playing blue rays the display reads multi channel in 7.1. Shouldn't it say Dolby digital or DTS etc. thx again.
1. There is a <Source Level> setting (p. 209 Owner's manual) that can be used to normalize the volume levels of your sources (if the difference bothers you).
2. The PS3 is decoding the DD/DTS to PCM 7.1. Set it to "bitstream" so the DD/DTS passes untouched and then the AVP can decode it.
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post #5102 of 5449 Old 05-17-2020, 04:30 PM
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Thanks a lot JD!
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post #5103 of 5449 Old 05-17-2020, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Consider turning the fans around such that the warm air is pulled "away" from the top of the AVP.



That would have been my preference. However I took the back panel off of this particular cabinet to gain access for the wiring. So I would not be able to create a closed system where I could draw the air out over the unit from the back. So the next best thing was to blow air over the unit from the back. It seems to work.
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post #5104 of 5449 Old 05-19-2020, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by jima4a View Post
It cost me about $130 to ship my amp back to ATI using their rates recently. It cost about $75 a couple years ago to ship it to me initially if I remember correct.
Well a AV8805 should be no where near that price to ship. Should be $75 tops with no discount. Might want to ask your dealer if he will ship it for you so you get a better rate if you are getting $130
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post #5105 of 5449 Old 05-19-2020, 05:11 PM
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Shipped out my Fathom today. Here's hoping Brown is gentle with her.
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post #5106 of 5449 Old 05-20-2020, 03:20 PM
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Tried to fool PreAmp and use Zone 2 to add a 2nd set of front speakers without going through assigning an output for an A B setup. Using Zone 2 didn't work because there is a delayed audio signal the comes out of it. I can play with lip sync setting and get it close but not dead on. The manual is not really clear on setting up the A B configuration for the front. I t looks like I'd have to change the speaker configuration from 13.2 to 11.2 if I am understanding correctly. Anyone else use the A B configuration yet? If so what steps did you take?

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post #5107 of 5449 Old 05-20-2020, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Maddmaster View Post
Tried to fool PreAmp and use Zone 2 to add a 2nd set of front speakers without going through assigning an output for an A B setup. Using Zone 2 didn't work because there is a delayed audio signal the comes out of it. I can play with lip sync setting and get it close but not dead on. The manual is not really clear on setting up the A B configuration for the front. It looks like I'd have to change the speaker configuration from 13.2 to 11.2 if I am understanding correctly. Anyone else use the A B configuration yet? If so what steps did you take?
Correct. A maximum of 13 channels can be processed in the main zone ... 11.2 + 2 (Front B) = 13.
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post #5108 of 5449 Old 05-26-2020, 02:27 PM
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Hello,

What is the deal with this HEOS on the Marantz. I had my Bose Mini SoundLink playing via my iPad in my bedroom and I turned on my tv in my living using the TV Audio in Auro 3D and next thing I know there is a pause and bam the music playing in my bedroom all of a sudden the music blares over my speakers and the Marantz switches to HEOS..I had to turn it down in a hurry..I'm concerned if there would be any damage to my speakers cause of the sudden spike and the HEOS all of a sudden kicking in when it shouldnt have needed too..is it because HEOS is connected to my network and my Bose SoundLink is overridden by the bluetooth of the HEOS? Very annoying to say the least. So basically I cannot have two systems running at the same time? One on bluetooth in my bedroom and the other playing just audio through my speakers from another input or else the HEOS will kick in? Thoughts anyone? Is there a way to prevent this from happening? And yes I know make sure you turn off the bluetooth on the Ipad..is that the only solution..what if I want to play my bluetooth in the bedroom and have the Marantz play out in my living say I have a guest watching tv and I want to listen to music in another room using my bluetooth speaker? My guest will jump right of their seat all of a sudden. Can this spike potentially do any damage to speakers? Thanks all. Appreciate any thoughts.

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post #5109 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 06:04 AM
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Audyssey and Bass Management

If I switch the Audyssey setting to Front L/R By-pass does that also by-pass bass management for the FL/FR speakers? I have often wondered just how interconnected those two facilities, Audyssey and Bass Management, are.


Any help appreciated.
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post #5110 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by DJB of Poole View Post
If I switch the Audyssey setting to Front L/R By-pass does that also by-pass bass management for the FL/FR speakers? I have often wondered just how interconnected those two facilities, Audyssey and Bass Management, are.


Any help appreciated.
Speaker size (large / small) and crossover settings are independent from Audyssey, even though there are some inter-dependencies in what you should and should not do in regards to adjusting crossover frequencies after running an Audyssey calibration. If my memory is correct, it's OK to adjust the crossover to a higher frequency after a calibration, but it's not OK to adjust it to a lower frequency after a calibration because Audyssey wouldn't have made adjustments for frequencies below the crossover point that was used for the calibration.


You should be able to cycle through the 4 choices for Audyssey (Reference, L/R Bypass, Flat, and Off) at will without having any effect on your bass management settings.
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post #5111 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJB of Poole View Post
If I switch the Audyssey setting to Front L/R By-pass does that also by-pass bass management for the FL/FR speakers? I have often wondered just how interconnected those two facilities, Audyssey and Bass Management, are.
That's a good question. Gsr's response seems correct to me as well however according to the manual re. Front L/R bypass:

"Selects the reference setting, but bypasses MultEQ® XT32 on the front left and right speakers"

and MultEQ XT32 reference is defined as:

"MultEQ® XT32 compensates for both time and frequency characteristics of the listening area based on Audyssey® Setup measurement results. Selection is done from three types of compensation curves. We recommend the “Reference” setting. Reference(Default):Selects the default calibrated setting with a slight roll off at high frequencies, which is optimized for movies."

So by a strict interpretation of what it says "distance correction", time, is neutralized. I suspect this is not actually true for incoming digital sources however this may be accurate for incoming analog sources.
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post #5112 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
That's a good question. Gsr's response seems correct to me as well however according to the manual re. Front L/R bypass:

"Selects the reference setting, but bypasses MultEQ® XT32 on the front left and right speakers"

and MultEQ XT32 reference is defined as:

"MultEQ® XT32 compensates for both time and frequency characteristics of the listening area based on Audyssey® Setup measurement results. Selection is done from three types of compensation curves. We recommend the “Reference” setting. Reference(Default):Selects the default calibrated setting with a slight roll off at high frequencies, which is optimized for movies."

So by a strict interpretation of what it says "distance correction", time, is neutralized. I suspect this is not actually true for incoming digital sources however this may be accurate for incoming analog sources.
The only difference between the Reference and L/R Bypass options is whether the front left & right speakers are using the Audyssey calibration. The bass management settings (distance, size, and crossover frequency) are not affected by switching between the Audyssey choices. When the Audyssey app has been used to modify the calibration curve, my understanding is that the Reference and L/R Bypass options use the user modified curve while Flat does not.


What happens with incoming analog sources will depend on the surround mode you've selected. So if you choose Direct, for example, that will disable some or all of the bass management features, but if you stick with the other modes, distance, size, and crossover settings will still apply. Further, if you have Audyssey set to L/R Bypass and then choose Direct for your surround/music mode, that should still disable Audyssey just as it would if you had Audyssey set to Reference or Flat.
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post #5113 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 09:55 AM
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Speaking of Audyssey, when I get my sub back from the shop will I have to rerun it? I’m guessing not because nothing has really changed. But she’s a fickle beast.

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post #5114 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post
What happens with incoming analog sources will depend on the surround mode you've selected. So if you choose Direct, for example, that will disable some or all of the bass management features, but if you stick with the other modes, distance, size, and crossover settings will still apply.
My testing of an AV7005 years ago found this not to be the case. Using Direct or Pure Direct for an incoming 2ch stereo PCM source neutralized distance correction for analog source inputs but oddly maintains it for the three digital ins: optical, coax digital, and HDMI. My unit only had MultEQXT, not XT32, however when forum member krabapple tried the same test on his Denon XT32 AVR he found it worked that way too.

I wrote Audyssey/Zendesk (Chris Kyriakakis usually) about this inconsistency and got the standard response, paraphrased: "We just measure stuff. The manufacturer is the one that makes the decisions of what to do with it."

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post #5115 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Waboman View Post
Speaking of Audyssey, when I get my sub back from the shop will I have to rerun it? I’m guessing not because nothing has really changed. But she’s a fickle beast.
If in the same position and same gain /level etc.. you shouldn't but and I mean but the sub may not be the same after the repair and therefore to settle that little nagging wabo that will bother you till no end! So yeah if it were me I'd do another calibration
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post #5116 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
My testing of an AV7005 years ago found this not to be the case. Using Direct or Pure Direct for an incoming 2ch stereo PCM source neutralized distance correction for analog source inputs but oddly maintains it for the three digital ins: optical, coax digital, and HDMI. My unit only had MultEQXT, not XT32, however when forum member krabapple tried the same test on his Denon XT32 AVR he found it worked that way too.
First of all, there's no such thing as a PCM analog source. PCM is a digital encoding (as is DSD), analog by definition isn't digital.



Second, I said that what happens for analog inputs is that some or all of the distance, size, and crossover selections are disabled when Direct / Pure Direct is selected which agrees with your findings, so I'm not sure why you're disagreeing with me. I made no mention of what happens to digital inputs.


The bottom line is that the manufacturers make it extremely difficult to determine what actually happens when you use the various combinations of input types, surround modes, and Audyssey settings. It's obviously a reasonably complicated set of rules, but they should have been able to figure out how to clearly document how this all works by now. Instead, there's a ton of confusion about how it actually works.



Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
I wrote Audyssey/Zendesk (Chris Kyriakakis usually) about this inconsistency and got the standard response, paraphrased: "We just measure stuff. The manufacturer is the one that makes the decisions of what to do with it."
That's correct - what is done with analog inputs isn't something Audyssey, the company, controls.
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post #5117 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 10:18 AM
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If in the same position and same gain /level etc.. you shouldn't but and I mean but the sub may not be the same after the repair and therefore to settle that little nagging wabo that will bother you till no end! So yeah if it were me I'd do another calibration
Agreed, it probably makes sense to do a new calibration in case the gain level changed or the state of the amp was bad enough to have an effect on the calibration when you (@Waboman) ran it previously.
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post #5118 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 10:50 AM
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First of all, there's no such thing as a PCM analog source. PCM is a digital encoding (as is DSD), analog by definition isn't digital.
I discussed a matter which involved both analog and digital inputs so I stand by my decision to mention the source material was encoded in PCM:

Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Using Direct or Pure Direct for an incoming 2ch stereo PCM source neutralized distance correction for analog source inputs but oddly maintains it for the three digital ins: optical, coax digital, and HDMI.
Mentioning the source signal was encoded in PCM is pertinent to the full sentence because digital inputs were part of the discussion. Incoming 2ch Dolby Digital 2.0 material might have behaved differently, for example, so I included the form the digital information was encoded in.

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post #5119 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by gsr View Post
What happens with incoming analog sources will depend on the surround mode you've selected. So if you choose Direct, for example, that will disable some or all of the bass management features, but if you stick with the other modes, distance, size, and crossover settings will still apply.
I misread this. My mistake, sorry.
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post #5120 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 11:13 AM
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That's correct - what is done with analog inputs isn't something Audyssey, the company, controls.
What annoyed me was what was happening with the digital inputs actually.

My measurement mic found a 3 inch difference in the FL and FR speakers. The manual implied I'd have the correction my prepro applied neutralized by selecting Pure Direct and that was not the case for digital inputs getting PCM from my disc player. I needed the L and R to be same so when I sent my preamp level signal to an outboard headphone amp or recording device I'd have the two channels in correct phase. Having a button labelled "Pure Direct" which couldn't actually accomplish that with a quick, single button selection for digital inputs was annoying.

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post #5121 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
What annoyed me was what was happening with the digital inputs actually.

My measurement mic found a 3 inch difference in the FL and FR speakers. The manual implied I'd have the correction my prepro applied neutralized by selecting Pure Direct and that was not the case for digital inputs getting PCM from my disc player. I needed the L and R to be same so when I sent my preamp level signal to an outboard headphone amp or recording device I'd have the two channels in correct phase. Having a button labelled "Pure Direct" which couldn't actually accomplish that with a quick, single button selection for digital inputs was annoying.
Sure it's a valid complaint, but the gripe is with the AVR / pre-pro manufacturer, not with Audyssey on that.


As I said in one of my other posts, these companies would do everyone (including themselves due to fewer support calls) a huge favor if they did a better job of documenting how these features actually work and interact with each other.
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post #5122 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 11:27 AM
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Sure it's a valid complaint, but the gripe is with the AVR / pre-pro manufacturer, not with Audyssey on that
Make that manufacturers, plural, since krabapple found the same oddity on his Denon AVR made a year or so later than my Marantz prepro. [Although I realize D+M Group, then D&M Holdings I believe, is the same company.]

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post #5123 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by audiofan1 View Post
If in the same position and same gain /level etc.. you shouldn't but and I mean but the sub may not be the same after the repair and therefore to settle that little nagging wabo that will bother you till no end! So yeah if it were me I'd do another calibration

Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post
Agreed, it probably makes sense to do a new calibration in case the gain level changed or the state of the amp was bad enough to have an effect on the calibration when you (@Waboman) ran it previously.
Yeah, you guys are probably right. Will have to run another cal. Been so long I don't remember my mic positions. I'll have The Franin come over and work his magic. Think I still have some Vegemite masks leftover. For proper social distancing.
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post #5124 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 05:51 PM
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Couple of questions:

1) Is the 8805 XLR inputs/outputs fully balanced?

2) can someone help explain the Smart Select feature is and how you guys use it? I read the manual and it didn’t really help.
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post #5125 of 5449 Old 05-30-2020, 11:51 PM
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Trouble w/ bass?

Hey guys - so I finally got a Mini DSP 2x4 HD to connect dual subs. When I started Audyssey, it sent a tone to the subs for me to Level match them. Easy. Then I got into REW and spent a couple hours making it sound right, got a decent flat response. So, I finish everything up and went to watch TV, no bass. I waited a few hours (because I needed break from it) and went back into Audyseey. Checked sub levels....almost no sound. Very low and the trim is at -6. I started Audyssey again to check, and it picked them up again. Loud and vibrated the room. Went into REW and ran a sweep....came back w/ the same graph as before. Went back into level test...nothing.

I thought it was the mini dip, so I unhooked it and ran the xlr straight into the back of the 8805....ran the levels..almost nothing. Is there some weird hiccup that's happening or something that needs to be reset? As I type this, I ran another sweep and I get the exact same graph I had before....so its clearly picking up that subs are there. I have spent hours on this and can't find the answer anywhere. I was going to call Mini DSP, but it seems that its not the issue - seems that something has happened w/ the LFE on the 8805. Any thoughts/ideas? Thanks in advance, probably a simple solution I haven't thought of

Speakers: JTR 212RTs - JTR 210RM - JTR 110HTs (x4)
Subwoofer: Dual Rythmik G25HPSE
Audio Gear: Marantz 8805 - Krell Chorus 5200 + D-Sonic M3a-800S - BS Node 2i - Oppo 203
TV: LG 65 OLED
Bedroom: ML Ethos - ML Motion 30 - Samsung Q8 LED
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post #5126 of 5449 Old 05-31-2020, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Ethos4Lyfe View Post
Hey guys - so I finally got a Mini DSP 2x4 HD to connect dual subs. When I started Audyssey, it sent a tone to the subs for me to Level match them. Easy. Then I got into REW and spent a couple hours making it sound right, got a decent flat response. So, I finish everything up and went to watch TV, no bass. I waited a few hours (because I needed break from it) and went back into Audyseey. Checked sub levels....almost no sound. Very low and the trim is at -6. I started Audyssey again to check, and it picked them up again. Loud and vibrated the room. Went into REW and ran a sweep....came back w/ the same graph as before. Went back into level test...nothing.

I thought it was the mini dip, so I unhooked it and ran the xlr straight into the back of the 8805....ran the levels..almost nothing. Is there some weird hiccup that's happening or something that needs to be reset? As I type this, I ran another sweep and I get the exact same graph I had before....so its clearly picking up that subs are there. I have spent hours on this and can't find the answer anywhere. I was going to call Mini DSP, but it seems that its not the issue - seems that something has happened w/ the LFE on the 8805. Any thoughts/ideas? Thanks in advance, probably a simple solution I haven't thought of
What master volume level is set when you run the test tone? As a lower frequencies are more "felt" than "heard", the master volume would have to be set fairly high.

When a strange issue presents that cannot easily be explained or resolved, there are two steps to take:

1. Try doing a "soft reset" by powering off the AVP and unplugging the power cord for 10 minutes.

2. If still no joy, then do a microprocessor reset by powering off the AVP and while pressing/holding the GAME and INFO buttons on the AVP front panel power on the AVP. Continue holding the two buttons until you see the word "INITIALIZED" on the front panel display.
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post #5127 of 5449 Old 05-31-2020, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Ethos4Lyfe View Post
Hey guys - so I finally got a Mini DSP 2x4 HD to connect dual subs. When I started Audyssey, it sent a tone to the subs for me to Level match them. Easy. Then I got into REW and spent a couple hours making it sound right, got a decent flat response. So, I finish everything up and went to watch TV, no bass. I waited a few hours (because I needed break from it) and went back into Audyseey. Checked sub levels....almost no sound. Very low and the trim is at -6. I started Audyssey again to check, and it picked them up again. Loud and vibrated the room. Went into REW and ran a sweep....came back w/ the same graph as before. Went back into level test...nothing.

I thought it was the mini dip, so I unhooked it and ran the xlr straight into the back of the 8805....ran the levels..almost nothing. Is there some weird hiccup that's happening or something that needs to be reset? As I type this, I ran another sweep and I get the exact same graph I had before....so its clearly picking up that subs are there. I have spent hours on this and can't find the answer anywhere. I was going to call Mini DSP, but it seems that its not the issue - seems that something has happened w/ the LFE on the 8805. Any thoughts/ideas? Thanks in advance, probably a simple solution I haven't thought of

What sound mode and material are you trying with after setup?
Speaker size set to small? What crossover settings?


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post #5128 of 5449 Old 05-31-2020, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by todd1010 View Post
Couple of questions:

1) Is the 8805 XLR inputs/outputs fully balanced?

2) can someone help explain the Smart Select feature is and how you guys use it? I read the manual and it didn’t really help.
1) This is a controversial question... Not gonna touch it.

2) Think of these as a way to save a particular configuration and recall them with a press of a button. Basically, it will remember your input source, output, volume level, sound mode, etc., so pressing a Smart Select button will re-select or restore your settings. They will also turn the unit on. The best feature I like is they also select the HDMI output (my 8805 is feeding a projector and a TV) and it's the quickest way to choose the output by far. It's sort of like with programmable remotes, where you create macros for "Watch TV" (for example) to fire off a bunch of IR commands to set up your devices; the only difference here is that these are for the processor only, not other devices.
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post #5129 of 5449 Old 05-31-2020, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
What master volume level is set when you run the test tone? As a lower frequencies are more "felt" than "heard", the master volume would have to be set fairly high.

When a strange issue presents that cannot easily be explained or resolved, there are two steps to take:

1. Try doing a "soft reset" by powering off the AVP and unplugging the power cord for 10 minutes.

2. If still no joy, then do a microprocessor reset by powering off the AVP and while pressing/holding the GAME and INFO buttons on the AVP front panel power on the AVP. Continue holding the two buttons until you see the word "INITIALIZED" on the front panel display.
I even raised the sub trim to -12 and almost no sound. Very odd. Ok, I have it unplugged now and will try in 10 mins. If not, I'll try your other option as well.

Speakers: JTR 212RTs - JTR 210RM - JTR 110HTs (x4)
Subwoofer: Dual Rythmik G25HPSE
Audio Gear: Marantz 8805 - Krell Chorus 5200 + D-Sonic M3a-800S - BS Node 2i - Oppo 203
TV: LG 65 OLED
Bedroom: ML Ethos - ML Motion 30 - Samsung Q8 LED
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post #5130 of 5449 Old 05-31-2020, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Leeliemix View Post
What sound mode and material are you trying with after setup?
Speaker size set to small? What crossover settings?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
2 channel, tv, youtube videos, scenes from John Wick...zero bass. Running small/80hz across all 5. Its just some connection issue, hopefully the reset suggested above will work!

Speakers: JTR 212RTs - JTR 210RM - JTR 110HTs (x4)
Subwoofer: Dual Rythmik G25HPSE
Audio Gear: Marantz 8805 - Krell Chorus 5200 + D-Sonic M3a-800S - BS Node 2i - Oppo 203
TV: LG 65 OLED
Bedroom: ML Ethos - ML Motion 30 - Samsung Q8 LED
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