New Behringer NX Series: 1000/3000/6000 in Black - Page 19 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #541 of 568 Old 11-02-2019, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ghart999 View Post
Weird. It saved the 3rd time. Do I need to touch any of the switches on the back?
What switches? You said you have the NX6000D

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Originally Posted by ghart999 View Post
Need help setting up a NX6000D...

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post #542 of 568 Old 11-02-2019, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
What switches? You said you have the NX6000D
Oops. I wasn't looking on the amp itself. Just in the manual.

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post #543 of 568 Old 11-04-2019, 03:42 PM
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Man nobody? I’m waiting on this to order.

Edit, this is about post 527. Do these still have turn off thump when used with one of those power strips that controls off additional outlets after the master shuts down?

Last edited by rr14; 11-04-2019 at 03:49 PM.
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post #544 of 568 Old 11-05-2019, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by rr14 View Post
Man nobody? I’m waiting on this to order.

Edit, this is about post 527. Do these still have turn off thump when used with one of those power strips that controls off additional outlets after the master shuts down?
@rr14 I purchased the NX6000D the month it was released and have NEVER experienced the "Thump" issues.

It has been a part of my setup from before using the 12v trigger on my AVR. I have also used it with an older Sony 5.1 AVR, older Onkyo 7.1, a newer Denon and now a Marantz prepro.

All the speakers it powers are nearfield so I would know if it had a Thump issue.. lol


I cannot speak to any other models.


FYI, I use a solid state Relay rated up to 40 amps ( like $16) to interrupt one of the power wires using the 12v Trigger from my AVR. ( Before I upgraded my AVR, I used my TVs USB port as the trigger)

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Last edited by kagtha; 11-05-2019 at 11:00 PM.
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post #545 of 568 Old 11-05-2019, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crunchman12001 View Post
My NX6000D has the same issue on

my windows 10 laptop. No solutions out there so far.
@DavidinGA

I have used NXedit on my big powerful desktop with Windows 10 as well as two separate laptops running Windows 10 with absolutely zero issues.

Try unplugging all USB peripherals including a USB mouse just to be sure there are no conflicts.

Try turning off any Security software as some restricts USB usage.

Last but not least, if it is a work computer you may not have permission. But to check, try right clicking the NXEDIT icon and "Run as Administrator"

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post #546 of 568 Old 11-06-2019, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagtha View Post
@DavidinGA

I have used NXedit on my big powerful desktop with Windows 10 as well as two separate laptops running Windows 10 with absolutely zero issues.

Try unplugging all USB peripherals including a USB mouse just to be sure there are no conflicts.

Try turning off any Security software as some restricts USB usage.

Last but not least, if it is a work computer you may not have permission. But to check, try right clicking the NXEDIT icon and "Run as Administrator"

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
I'll have to go back and revisit it all; I gave up on the program ever working a while back...

I couldn't get it to work on two different win10 pc's, so I figured it was a poorly written program.

I never tried unplugging my usb devices, but I did try a number of other things such as: run in compatibility mode, run as admin, uninstall/reinstall multiple times. The app would simply never connect to the nx3000d. I think I tried multiple usb cables too, thinking that was the issue; never worked.


*edit*
I also tried it on my laptop and the nx3000d was the only usb device attached, so I guess I actually did try the no other usb devices attached suggestion - it didnt' work from my laptop either...

Other suggestions?

--------------------------------------------------
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post #547 of 568 Old 11-06-2019, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidinGA View Post
I'll have to go back and revisit it all; I gave up on the program ever working a while back...

I couldn't get it to work on two different win10 pc's, so I figured it was a poorly written program.

I never tried unplugging my usb devices, but I did try a number of other things such as: run in compatibility mode, run as admin, uninstall/reinstall multiple times. The app would simply never connect to the nx3000d. I think I tried multiple usb cables too, thinking that was the issue; never worked.


*edit*
I also tried it on my laptop and the nx3000d was the only usb device attached, so I guess I actually did try the no other usb devices attached suggestion - it didnt' work from my laptop either...

Other suggestions?

That thread is too long to go through everything you did. I did see someone mentioned to download the software from musictribe, but I downloaded mine from the support section of the regular behringer website. (see attached, it is still V1)

The only other thing I can think of is maybe you were running nxedit without unzipping it. Once downloaded you must unzip the nxedit.exe in a new place so it is not sitting in the nxedit.zip folder. Or possibly move it from your desktop to the root C drive and see if you can run it as admin from there just in case your desktop folder has some weird policy.

Did you ever install the inuke software on any of those computers? I have not, maybe it is conflicting?

I doubt this would be an issue but did you delete the first memory slot on the NX3000d? I did not. It is still there sitting next to 17 other saved config files.

Sorry I am all out of ideas if that does not work and you have verified you have a good usb cable. If that does not work.... from my perspective the only thing left to change is the operator.


I went through the whole process again just for you, you know what I learned? I got a damn good price on my unit for purchasing it before release. $ Should have bought 100 and sold em to you guys.. lol
Attached Thumbnails
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post #548 of 568 Old 11-06-2019, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagtha View Post
That thread is too long to go through everything you did. I did see someone mentioned to download the software from musictribe, but I downloaded mine from the support section of the regular behringer website. (see attached, it is still V1)

The only other thing I can think of is maybe you were running nxedit without unzipping it. Once downloaded you must unzip the nxedit.exe in a new place so it is not sitting in the nxedit.zip folder. Or possibly move it from your desktop to the root C drive and see if you can run it as admin from there just in case your desktop folder has some weird policy.

Did you ever install the inuke software on any of those computers? I have not, maybe it is conflicting?

I doubt this would be an issue but did you delete the first memory slot on the NX3000d? I did not. It is still there sitting next to 17 other saved config files.

Sorry I am all out of ideas if that does not work and you have verified you have a good usb cable. If that does not work.... from my perspective the only thing left to change is the operator.


I went through the whole process again just for you, you know what I learned? I got a damn good price on my unit for purchasing it before release. $ Should have bought 100 and sold em to you guys.. lol
Ok, thanks for your help.

I'll revisit the issue maybe this weekend and see if I can get anything working.

--------------------------------------------------
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post #549 of 568 Old 11-08-2019, 06:00 PM
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I have a dumb question. I am constructing a BOSS, from the hidden theatre thread, and have ordered the NX3000d amp. I received it today, but looking at the back on the connectors. What is everybody using for the input and output connections?
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post #550 of 568 Old 11-08-2019, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xpertpredator View Post
I have a dumb question. I am constructing a BOSS, from the hidden theatre thread, and have ordered the NX3000d amp. I received it today, but looking at the back on the connectors. What is everybody using for the input and output connections?
From AVR to NX3k: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-XLR.../dp/B001VLW398

From NX3k to drivers, it depends. You can do SpeakOn to bare wire connection on the drivers or SpeakOn to a SpeakOn connector on the platform.

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post #551 of 568 Old 11-13-2019, 10:16 PM
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Is anyone using the NX series amps for full range HT use?

Did the reported high frequency fix on the NX work (i.e. Benefit from a linear frequency response at any speaker load, by virtue of the NX4-6000's SmartSense loudspeaker impedance compensation)?

Do they hiss or him or have any noise through the speakers when used for full range, or have and turn on or off thumps or pops?

I've read about the fan noise and poor heat dissippation from the cost-cutting to produce an inexpensive unit. That is one shortcoming that I can deal with: I have read many fan and heatsink mod threads. I'm happy to mod them to be quiet and extend the longevity with a little investment in each unit if that overcomes these shortcomings. But I can't do anything about issues related to using them as full range home theater amps, so those are the issues I am most interested in hearing about.

I have read about a relay mod for the main power switch to make them trigger on a 12v trigger signal from a processor. Has anyone done it or know where the information is located? If so, can you share a link to that please?

Are the ULF frequency power output drops that much of a concern? Is the better or worse than the same problem the Crown XLS 2502 seems to have (i.e. has anyone measured both and compare power output below 40Hz down to 5Hz)?

The reason I ask is because a stack if NX4-6000 amps seem ideal for a 16 channel home theater setup. The power is overkill but the price is exceptional. You could use 4 of them (16 amp channels) for bed layer and heights, and bridge a couple more for subwoofer duty (a bridged NX4-6000 seems identical to an NX6000). You would then have redundancy, if one failed you could send it in for warranty repair and swap things around so the least important channels were without an amp during the repair.

Thoughts?

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post #552 of 568 Old 11-16-2019, 04:46 PM
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NX3000D Limit LED Question

Used software to set NX3000D in Bridge mode and connected single in (from preamp) and out (to subwoofer) on channel A. Set the channel A limit to 700W for 4 ohm load. Saved all settings. When using, I put the input signal levels on channel A to about the 11 o'clock position and channel B to zero. On some loud passages I see green LEDs for both channels light up and if the passage is very dynamic (e.g.: heavy bass drum, cannon fire, etc.) the red limit LED on channel B (but not necessarily on A) will light momentarily. Since I'm only connected to channel A for input and output in Bridge mode and channel B's limit setting is blanked out and gain level is set to zero, why am I getting any signal level and limit LEDs on channel B? Thanks to all.
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post #553 of 568 Old 11-16-2019, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagtha View Post
@DavidinGA

I have used NXedit on my big powerful desktop with Windows 10 as well as two separate laptops running Windows 10 with absolutely zero issues.

Try unplugging all USB peripherals including a USB mouse just to be sure there are no conflicts.

Try turning off any Security software as some restricts USB usage.

Last but not least, if it is a work computer you may not have permission. But to check, try right clicking the NXEDIT icon and "Run as Administrator"

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Thank you for the reply kagtha, I tried it again as an administrator, turned off pop up blockers and anti virus. Still cannot get the s
software to connect. I will have to see if I can get my wife who is in "IT" to try it. I will report back. It really shouldn't be this hard. ****ty software IMO.
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post #554 of 568 Old 11-16-2019, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rag_Dude View Post
Used software to set NX3000D in Bridge mode and connected single in (from preamp) and out (to subwoofer) on channel A. Set the channel A limit to 700W for 4 ohm load. Saved all settings. When using, I put the input signal levels on channel A to about the 11 o'clock position and channel B to zero. On some loud passages I see green LEDs for both channels light up and if the passage is very dynamic (e.g.: heavy bass drum, cannon fire, etc.) the red limit LED on channel B (but not necessarily on A) will light momentarily. Since I'm only connected to channel A for input and output in Bridge mode and channel B's limit setting is blanked out and gain level is set to zero, why am I getting any signal level and limit LEDs on channel B? Thanks to all.
Considering the limiter software claims 5000 watts at full power vs the 3000 watts claimed by the manual, one would assume the 700 watt setting to really be closer to 420 watts. If you want to set the limiter to a true 700 watts, try setting the limiter to 1167.

Channel B's amp is also being used in Bridge mode, thus both sets of lights lighting. Due to tolerances, each channel will not necessarily be exactly equal in power or report that power exactly alike, so one red light may light before the other.

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post #555 of 568 Old 11-16-2019, 06:16 PM
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Just got the NX3000D, and wow, these are much nicer looking and sounding than the iNukes were. I also have the iNuke 3000DSP, and the NX series is definitely an improvement in just about every way. Absolutely love it.

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post #556 of 568 Old 11-17-2019, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
Considering the limiter software claims 5000 watts at full power vs the 3000 watts claimed by the manual, one would assume the 700 watt setting to really be closer to 420 watts. If you want to set the limiter to a true 700 watts, try setting the limiter to 1167.

Channel B's amp is also being used in Bridge mode, thus both sets of lights lighting. Due to tolerances, each channel will not necessarily be exactly equal in power or report that power exactly alike, so one red light may light before the other.
Of course, you're correct that the B channel amp is used in bridge mode! Don't know what I was thinking! Guess the software graphics blanking out the channel limit settings threw my mind off track. Anyway, thanks for setting me straight. Now the indications make sense. I'll also look into bumping up that watt limit too when I get back into it. Thanks again!
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post #557 of 568 Old 11-17-2019, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
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Thank you for the reply kagtha, I tried it again as an administrator, turned off pop up blockers and anti virus. Still cannot get the s

software to connect. I will have to see if I can get my wife who is in "IT" to try it. I will report back. It really shouldn't be this hard. ****ty software IMO.
Yeah , I still can't make mine work either....

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--------------------------------------------------
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post #558 of 568 Old 11-17-2019, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidinGA View Post
Yeah , I still can't make mine work either....

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Did you guys unzip it?

If you did not unzip it, you will be able to see "Extract All..." as on option when you right-click the file.

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post #559 of 568 Old 11-19-2019, 04:28 AM
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nuke6k run a pair of othorns

I am on the verge of building 2 more othorns and was wondering if the mentioned amp would be sufficient at running a pair of ots?
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post #560 of 568 Old 11-30-2019, 07:04 PM
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Ah dang it. Didn't think about that.

The good news: DHL notified me they will deliver today.

The bad news: It is really a 240V version per the user manual. What to do now?

Power Supply, Voltage, Current Consumption (Breaker / Fuses)
USA / Canada 120 V~, 60 Hz, (T 25 A H 250 V) 100-120 V~, 50/60 Hz,
(T 10 A H 250 V)

UK / Australia / Europe 220-240 V~, 50/60 Hz, (T 12 A H 250 V) 220-240 V~, 50/60 Hz,
(T 6.3 A H 250 V)

Power consumption @ 2 Ω,
1⁄8 rated power
— 620 W 350 W
Power consumption @ 4 Ω,
1⁄8 rated power
620 W 620 W — —
Mains connector Standard IEC receptacle
I realize that this post is already a few months old. However, looking at pictures of the Printed Circuit Board posted elsewhere in this thread, it appears as if the voltage rating is added as a label (i.e. 120V or 220V/240V) instead of being printed as part of the silk screen process. This tells me that Behringer is most likely using the same PCB for both configurations. The difference can be as simple as populating a component such as a resistor between different pads to define the voltage configuration.

Has anyone looked into this layout design? Difficult to read the details from the pictures.

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post #561 of 568 Old 11-30-2019, 08:14 PM
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Yeah, I think I read somewhere that there is a jumper you can cut, or vice versa.

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post #562 of 568 Old 12-02-2019, 03:39 AM
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Yeah, I think I read somewhere that there is a jumper you can cut, or vice versa.
That looks like it. If the INuke is the same as the NX, then this video shows removing of two jumpers and adding one jumper to go from 110 to 220. Interesting that Behringer use through hole jumpers instead of zero ohm surface mount parts.

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post #563 of 568 Old 12-02-2019, 03:46 AM
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Also found this thread in the DIY subwoofer section

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...110v-220v.html

From the discussion it appears as if there are more jumpers involved on the 6000 (as per the video above) than just the single one shown in the pictures for the 3000.

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Last edited by RamKat; 12-02-2019 at 03:55 AM. Reason: More info
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post #564 of 568 Old 12-02-2019, 08:40 AM
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The real question is...

Do they output any more power running off 220 vs 110?

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post #565 of 568 Old 12-02-2019, 12:52 PM
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The real question was whether the OP, who accidentally bought the 220 version, could convert it to 110.

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post #566 of 568 Old 12-02-2019, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
The real question was whether the OP, who accidentally bought the 220 version, could convert it to 110.
ah... missed that..

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post #567 of 568 Old 12-02-2019, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
The real question was whether the OP, who accidentally bought the 220 version, could convert it to 110.
Correct, In my case I am considering buying a NX3000D from the same source as the OP at a significant reduced price when compared to the current NA prices. Since I will forfeit the warranty by replacing the fan (from whom ever supplier I buy) I may as well add this 240V to 120V mod to the mix if it would save me some dough. I have a 220/240V outlet in my workshop so I could test the unit and even run it for a while before doing the mods. This should take care of DOA or any infancy failures. The only thing to get certainty about is if adding a single jumper to the PCB on the NX-3000D is the only mod required.

I have a hunch that the current high prices in NA have to do with maybe a short supply? This is based on the observation that PE has been out of stock on the NX3000D pretty much when the price increase happened from the other suppliers.

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post #568 of 568 Old 12-06-2019, 10:06 PM
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Ok so I have found a big difference in distortion on the limiters when comparing the inukes to the nx series. With a long hold/release limiter there was no audible distortion in the inukes, it just capped the volume but with the nx6000dsp it distorts like crazy. Tested on two amps with the same result and the distortion gets worse as you turn down the threshold or smash it harder. Am I missing something here?
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