"OFFICIAL" 2018 Denon "S-Series" / "X-Series" AVR Owner's Thread + FAQ (Posts 1-8) - Page 143 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4261 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 01:15 AM
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Need advice for uncommon temporary test setup.
Expecting a new center channel speaker this week (Chane A2.4). I would like to run just this one CC speaker, in “FULL”, by itself, just to hear how it sounds at a medium volume, as well as to break it in a bit letting it handle full range with the low frequencies. This way I can let it play for awhile, without ANY of the other speakers in my 7.1 setup playing - OFF! Then, I’d set it to “SMALL”, and let it break in some more. (owners of this speaker say a break in period is helpful, not interested in debating that). After a short break in, it will be setup for normal use as “small” and probably with a 100 kHz crossover, letting my Rythmik F12G subwoofer handle the lows, hopefully allowing for clearer CC movie dialog.

Looking at my Denon 3500 AVR manual, I don’t see an easy way to do the above. I do not want to physically disconnect any of the current speakers. Don’t see any menu items to simply software disable all the other speakers. I could lower the gain for each channel via menu, but only up to -12.

Is what I’d like to do (leaving current speakers wired), possible? Hopefully this is in JD’s wheel house, no one knows the menu options better. Suggestions welcome. Thanks.

HDTV: Panasonic P55VT50 Plasma
AVR: Denon X3500H
SPEAKERS: Ohm (mains), Chane 2.4 (center), Rythmik F12G (sub), DefTech ProMonitor 80 (sats)
MEDIA PLAYER: Oppo BD83
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post #4262 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 01:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mactavish View Post
Need advice for uncommon temporary test setup.
Expecting a new center channel speaker this week (Chane A2.4). I would like to run just this one CC speaker, in “FULL”, by itself, just to hear how it sounds at a medium volume, as well as to break it in a bit letting it handle full range with the low frequencies. This way I can let it play for awhile, without ANY of the other speakers in my 7.1 setup playing - OFF! Then, I’d set it to “SMALL”, and let it break in some more. (owners of this speaker say a break in period is helpful, not interested in debating that). After a short break in, it will be setup for normal use as “small” and probably with a 100 kHz crossover, letting my Rythmik F12G subwoofer handle the lows, hopefully allowing for clearer CC movie dialog.

Looking at my Denon 3500 AVR manual, I don’t see an easy way to do the above. I do not want to physically disconnect any of the current speakers. Don’t see any menu items to simply software disable all the other speakers. I could lower the gain for each channel via menu, but only up to -12.

Is what I’d like to do (leaving current speakers wired), possible? Hopefully this is in JD’s wheel house, no one knows the menu options better. Suggestions welcome. Thanks.
Nope. At a minimum the Front L/R speakers must always be active so you're only option is to disconnect their plugs/wires from the AVR.

This is a great example of why using banana plugs makes testing so much easier.
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post #4263 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Could be a defective DTS decoder, although rare. Refer to post 5 and start with a "restart" and if no joy, a microprocessor reset.
Thank you for your reply
Steps were made so far:
  • attempt to reduce number of channels from 7.1.4 down to 2.0
  • microprocessor reinitialisation
  • reset to factory firmware FW 2101-5133-8132-4054 (DTS 3.90.35.00)
No luck.
It seems "defective DTS decoder" is the most likely case
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post #4264 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 07:30 AM
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Has anyone used the (internal) HDMI DIAGNOSTICS test on a 3500? It always errors on start-up.

I might type 2K for 1080p.
UDP-203/ATV4K(6,2)/X3500/LG C8
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post #4265 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Nope. At a minimum the Front L/R speakers must always be active so you're only option is to disconnect their plugs/wires from the AVR.

This is a great example of why using banana plugs makes testing so much easier.
True, unless they are like mine, GLS “locking” banana plugs, located in hard to reach location.
Thanks JD.

HDTV: Panasonic P55VT50 Plasma
AVR: Denon X3500H
SPEAKERS: Ohm (mains), Chane 2.4 (center), Rythmik F12G (sub), DefTech ProMonitor 80 (sats)
MEDIA PLAYER: Oppo BD83
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post #4266 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by GREMeZ View Post
Thank you for your reply
Steps were made so far:
  • attempt to reduce number of channels from 7.1.4 down to 2.0
  • microprocessor reinitialisation
  • reset to factory firmware FW 2101-5133-8132-4054 (DTS 3.90.35.00)
No luck.
It seems "defective DTS decoder" is the most likely case

Modern AVRs don't have a separate "DTS decoder" that can go bad. Vanilla DTS (not necessarily the various artificial enhancers which may use proprietary chips) and Vanilla DD are typically handled by the same OEM DSP chip and the decoding is part of the chip firmware programming (i.e., no separate hardware areas). So one of them is unlikely to "go bad". This decoding is done as early as possible and rest of the hardware is common to both.

Also, if the audio is able to play for a while and then starts distorting or goes silent, it is typically not a decoder (or a hardware) problem but a buffering and/or resampling issue in the digital path, typically with non-dedicated audio equipment.

To narrow down the problem you have to simplify your set up to the smallest configuration possible that can display the issue, not juggle 3 or 4 different combination of sources each with multiple options on how the audio is processed and make arbitrary guesses as to what is going wrong. You are likely to make bad guesses based on correlation than cause.

In your case, the simplest would be to eliminate Plex and Xbox and use Kodi on your Nvidia Shield playing two local (or on USB) files, one with DTS audio and one with DD (not DD+). First, go to Kodi Audio options and set everything to default. Then enable Pass through and make sure that both DD (AC3) and DTS capabilities (receiver capable) are checked. It is also better if both source files use the same sampling rate (preferably 44.1 or 48). Also get DD and DTS samples from different sources (demo videos on YouTube are the best bet, not various pirated media one can play through Kodi which can have bad processing). Its is also useful to select the sources so that both have 2.0 or both have the same multi-channel recording.

Now, switch the AVR to direct mode and play the two files and make sure that the OSD or app status display of the AVR shows DD or DTS for the input.

Now see if you can reproduce the problem.

If the problem occurs, in the Kodi audio options, turn off passthrough. Do the same test (AVR should just say PCM for both not DD or DTS in this step). Does the problem occur again for the two sources?

Next try enabling Passthrough but toggle DD and DTS capable options individually so that one is off and one is on (two separate tests).

Or if you have a DVD/BR player, the most reliable test would be to play legit, original (not ripped or cloned) discs one with DTS and another with DD audio connected to the AVR with audio on the player set to passthrough (so that AVR is showing DD or DTS on its inputs not PCM). These have less options than the Xbox. Or you can play the discs through the Xbox and skip Kodi/Plex.

Also make sure that both formats go through the same cable to the AVR (HDMI or Optical). If you have options between the two, try switching between them.

Gather some info on the above tests and post them and perhaps that will lead to better diagnosis.
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Last edited by audimus; 07-21-2019 at 11:21 AM.
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post #4267 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jhumur View Post
Exactly. That's been my experience all along until this sudden change in the system. In the past when I switched from Direct to one of the "filtered" modes, there would be some changes of course but nothing this dramatic. Now, it swings from a volume level that is loud to something that is indiscernible.
Your core problem seems to be either an upstream issue with sources "reducing volume" (some sources can be set to fixed or variable volume to get volume control on the source) or (less likely) a gain stage in the input processing board gone bad leading to a very low signal into the audio processor on the AVR. The post-processing and EQ can somewhat offset this by increasing gain but the quality will be poor and mask the core issue.

All the experimentation with Audyssey, Crossovers, etc are like trying to fix a clogged fuel filter on a car by using cruise control. This is the problem with these kitchen sink audio equipment where people go on auto-pilot and everything looks like a nail to hit with a hammer.

Try connecting a different or a stable source through a single verified or new cable (try HDMI and Optical as two test cases if possible) and try to get decent volume in a direct mode. Also make sure that you are testing via passive speakers and not some soundbars or active speaker setups that can introduce their own complications.

If you cannot get this to work, then playing around with any of the audio processing options on the AVR is wasting time. Also try, to limit to stereo sources first than multi-channel to isolate the problem. Make sure that the options on the source do not have an audio control that can be set to variable or fixed. If there is, set it to fixed and/or make sure that the volume selector on that source (possibly on its remote) is set to max.

If the problem persists with this, then you can call customer support with this simplified configuration to make their troubleshooting procedure easier and more effective.
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post #4268 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mactavish View Post
True, unless they are like mine, GLS “locking” banana plugs, located in hard to reach location.

Thanks JD.
It might be easier to remove one cable each from the speakers. Maybe easier to reach.
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post #4269 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mactavish View Post
Need advice for uncommon temporary test setup.

Expecting a new center channel speaker this week (Chane A2.4). I would like to run just this one CC speaker, in “FULL”, by itself, just to hear how it sounds at a medium volume, as well as to break it in a bit letting it handle full range with the low frequencies. This way I can let it play for awhile, without ANY of the other speakers in my 7.1 setup playing - OFF! Then, I’d set it to “SMALL”, and let it break in some more. (owners of this speaker say a break in period is helpful, not interested in debating that). After a short break in, it will be setup for normal use as “small” and probably with a 100 kHz crossover, letting my Rythmik F12G subwoofer handle the lows, hopefully allowing for clearer CC movie dialog.



Looking at my Denon 3500 AVR manual, I don’t see an easy way to do the above. I do not want to physically disconnect any of the current speakers. Don’t see any menu items to simply software disable all the other speakers. I could lower the gain for each channel via menu, but only up to -12.



Is what I’d like to do (leaving current speakers wired), possible? Hopefully this is in JD’s wheel house, no one knows the menu options better. Suggestions welcome. Thanks.
You could lower the levels of all the speakers other than the center using channel level adjust under option on the remote. You'll need to be in a multi channel setting to see all the channels in your setup there. It won't totally mute the other channels but will attenuate them pretty heavily. Just a thought.


EDIT: I speed read through your post and obviously missed the -12dB thought but that's a lot of attenuation. More than half the levels of the center channel. The other thing you could do is only disconnect the mains and attenuate the surrounds.

Chane A5 towers,Chane A2.4 center,RBH bipole side surrounds, Rythmik LV12R x2,Denon X4300H, Outlaw 5000,Front B speakers: Wharfedale Diamond 10.1 books. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...d-part-ii.html

Last edited by Madmax67; 07-21-2019 at 01:27 PM.
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post #4270 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 01:47 PM
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How to improve dialog clarity?

I have a 4.1 set up with no center channel. In some movies, the dialogs are not loud enough compared to the background sound and music.

So I am thinking of doing the following to enhance dialogs. Let me know if you feel it will work. Has anyone tried it?

Since most vocals are largely between 150 to 600 hz, I was planning to adding a 3 to 6 dB boost in Audyssey app in this frequency range.

My Audyssey app is currently not working. It keeps losing the connection with my Denon 3500. But if it works and others think that this might work, I will try it.

Has anyone tried this or anything else to enhance dialogs in a 4.1 set up?
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post #4271 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audimus View Post
Your core problem seems to be either an upstream issue with sources "reducing volume" (some sources can be set to fixed or variable volume to get volume control on the source) or (less likely) a gain stage in the input processing board gone bad leading to a very low signal into the audio processor on the AVR. The post-processing and EQ can somewhat offset this by increasing gain but the quality will be poor and mask the core issue.

All the experimentation with Audyssey, Crossovers, etc are like trying to fix a clogged fuel filter on a car by using cruise control. This is the problem with these kitchen sink audio equipment where people go on auto-pilot and everything looks like a nail to hit with a hammer.

Try connecting a different or a stable source through a single verified or new cable (try HDMI and Optical as two test cases if possible) and try to get decent volume in a direct mode. Also make sure that you are testing via passive speakers and not some soundbars or active speaker setups that can introduce their own complications.

If you cannot get this to work, then playing around with any of the audio processing options on the AVR is wasting time. Also try, to limit to stereo sources first than multi-channel to isolate the problem. Make sure that the options on the source do not have an audio control that can be set to variable or fixed. If there is, set it to fixed and/or make sure that the volume selector on that source (possibly on its remote) is set to max.

If the problem persists with this, then you can call customer support with this simplified configuration to make their troubleshooting procedure easier and more effective.
Great advice and I get what you're saying but I've literally diagnosed/ corrected 100's of Denon/Marantz owners issues with sound here and on other home audio forums using your cruise control analogy. Sometimes in minutes. The overwhelming majority of issues are either , like you said, source related or in my experience directly related to a setup error. Not hardware related. In this particular case it might be but altering from checking crossover, low pass, proper bass mgmt., Audyssey tweaks, soft reset, processor reset and instead first remove other source devices and reduce cabling wastes time. You work back to that stuff not up from it.

We used to get customers in our shop saying their car door was rattling like crazy and they just knew there was something broken inside the door panel. A good tech checks for a small umbrella or ice scraper in the door pocket before he pulls the door panel. This happens more than you'd think it would.

"My 4x4 truck won't go over 20 miles an hour." Check that they didn't accidentally switch into 4 low. Bingo! Happened all the time.

As for helping a Denon CSR rep by telling them what you have already done. They are going to go through their script regardless of what any customer has said they have already done period. Those calls are recorded for a reason. Also contacting any makes customer support does not automatically mean that you are going to have to send your product in for repair on your dime one way. First they'll see if there are any bulletins out regarding your issue. At times makes have had beta firmware they'll send out directly to the customer again if it's an issue their already aware of and working to correct. Next they'll let you know all the nearest authorized repair centers if you wanted to make a small drive and save the shipping cost to their main repair centers. The best outcome is they offer a troubleshooting fix that wasn't done and helps that way.
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Last edited by Madmax67; 07-21-2019 at 02:59 PM.
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post #4272 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madmax67 View Post
You could lower the levels of all the speakers other than the center using channel level adjust under option on the remote. You'll need to be in a multi channel setting to see all the channels in your setup there. It won't totally mute the other channels but will attenuate them pretty heavily. Just a thought.


EDIT: I speed read through your post and obviously missed the -12dB thought but that's a lot of attenuation. More than half the levels of the center channel. The other thing you could do is only disconnect the mains and attenuate the surrounds.
Yeah, going -12db on all channels, looks like my only choice. I won’t bore everyone on why disconnecting wires while certainly possible, is undesirable here. I was just hoping there was a quick software menu option. Like a magic zone 2 setup, etc.

Setting all the other channels lower will still be helpful when doing the CC break in. I’m not going to blast it, but I have neighbors, and by reducing the overall SPL, I can run the break in longer, and not bother myself as well. At least I can turn the speakers to FULL for awhile, just to get the new CC’s mid-woofers moving a bit more, I’ll just have to be a little careful as my while my little mains can handle FULL, I wouldn’t want to push those, but if set to -12db, I should be fine.
Thanks!

HDTV: Panasonic P55VT50 Plasma
AVR: Denon X3500H
SPEAKERS: Ohm (mains), Chane 2.4 (center), Rythmik F12G (sub), DefTech ProMonitor 80 (sats)
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post #4273 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mactavish View Post
Yeah, going -12db on all channels, looks like my only choice. I won’t bore everyone on why disconnecting wires while certainly possible, is undesirable here. I was just hoping there was a quick software menu option. Like a magic zone 2 setup, etc.



Setting all the other channels lower will still be helpful when doing the CC break in. I’m not going to blast it, but I have neighbors, and by reducing the overall SPL, I can run the break in longer, and not bother myself as well. At least I can turn the speakers to FULL for awhile, just to get the new CC’s mid-woofers moving a bit more, I’ll just have to be a little careful as my while my little mains can handle FULL, I wouldn’t want to push those, but if set to -12db, I should be fine.

Thanks!
Welcome. Sounds like a plan. Good luck.
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post #4274 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 05:03 PM
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pass-through?

I'm making a new setup for my house with an LG C9 TV and the Denon AVR-3500.

Is it better to connect my inputs (nvidia shield, ps4 pro and in the near future a bluray player) directly to the TV and have it sent to the receiver via eARC or connect everything to the receiver and from that to the tv (which would make my setup cleaner looking, but not sure if the video quality suffers in that way).
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post #4275 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 05:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Felipe Barbosa View Post
I'm making a new setup for my house with an LG C9 TV and the Denon AVR-3500.

Is it better to connect my inputs (nvidia shield, ps4 pro and in the near future a bluray player) directly to the TV and have it sent to the receiver via eARC or connect everything to the receiver and from that to the tv (which would make my setup cleaner looking, but not sure if the video quality suffers in that way).
If the source is not connected to the AVR, then there is no GUI/Info display screen, so better to connect directly to the AVR.
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post #4276 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Felipe Barbosa View Post
I'm making a new setup for my house with an LG C9 TV and the Denon AVR-3500.



Is it better to connect my inputs (nvidia shield, ps4 pro and in the near future a bluray player) directly to the TV and have it sent to the receiver via eARC or connect everything to the receiver and from that to the tv (which would make my setup cleaner looking, but not sure if the video quality suffers in that way).
It won't suffer. Best to run everything you can through the receiver then to the TV. That way you'll get the receivers on screen GUI and volume control. If at our under 25 feet for the longest HDMI run best practices is to run all Certified Premium HDMI cables with the shortest being 6 footers for the source devices to receiver ones. Monoprice offers a slim line CP cable up to 8 feet I believe if you want to save the thicker gauge for the longer run to the TV. There is also an enhanced HDMI setting for inputs that passes through 4K HDR 60HZ. Standard just passes 24. I run all my source devices through my Denon X4300H using all CP Monoprice HDMI cables and have never had any issues. 6 feet source to receiver and 20 feet from receiver to Sony TV.

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post #4277 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 06:20 PM
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Need advice for uncommon temporary test setup. ...
Something like in the picture. Create a 7.1 file... (you could swing it doing just 1.0 of the Center, but I'd have to explain too much), set all but the center to silent (uncheck them), and that's it. Play the .wav on Jukebox 2112 (or mostly anything else) and you get only the center sounding.


P.S. You can set JB2112 to repeat play of a single file, or loop around the list.
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post #4278 of 4910 Old 07-21-2019, 06:29 PM
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Something like in the picture. Create a 7.1 file... (you could swing it doing just 1.0 of the Center, but I'd have to explain too much), set all but the center to silent (uncheck them), and that's it. Play the .wav on Jukebox 2112 (or mostly anything else) and you get only the center sounding.


P.S. You can set JB2112 to repeat play of a single file, or loop around the list.
Interesting idea, would certainly work for doing a break in, not sure I could create any type of music file that would let me just hear the musicality of the new speaker. For that I’d be back to re-wiring. It’s not a big deal, I always come up with impractical ideas.....
Thanks

HDTV: Panasonic P55VT50 Plasma
AVR: Denon X3500H
SPEAKERS: Ohm (mains), Chane 2.4 (center), Rythmik F12G (sub), DefTech ProMonitor 80 (sats)
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post #4279 of 4910 Old 07-22-2019, 01:39 PM
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Does anyone know what frequencies does the dialog enhancer boost in 6500x and 8500x?

What all settings does it change in when dialog enhancer is selected?
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post #4280 of 4910 Old 07-22-2019, 01:56 PM
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Does anyone know what frequencies does the dialog enhancer boost in 6500x and 8500x?

What all settings does it change in when dialog enhancer is selected?
I measured the effect dialog enhancer has on my 4520ci...not sure how the newer AVRs are doing it though.
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post #4281 of 4910 Old 07-22-2019, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
I measured the effect dialog enhancer has on my 4520ci...not sure how the newer AVRs are doing it though.
Looks like about 3 dB boost at select frequencies. Is that enough to hear a difference?
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post #4282 of 4910 Old 07-22-2019, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SouthernCA View Post
Looks like about 3 dB boost at select frequencies. Is that enough to hear a difference?
Makes a difference in intelligibility for me. It's not a night-and-day difference, but it's a noticeable difference.
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post #4283 of 4910 Old 07-22-2019, 03:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SouthernCA View Post
Does anyone know what frequencies does the dialog enhancer boost in 6500x and 8500x?

What all settings does it change in when dialog enhancer is selected?
AustinJerry provided a graph of the affect of each of the Dialog Enhancer settings (Low, Med, High) which is listed in the post below:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...l#post22413907

Last edited by jdsmoothie; 07-22-2019 at 04:01 PM.
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post #4284 of 4910 Old 07-22-2019, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
A forum member provided a graph of the affect of each of the Dialog Enhancer settings (Low, Med, High) in the link below:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...l#post22413907
Oh yes, forgot about Batpig's graphs!

And, I forgot to mention that my measurement was on the "Low" setting.
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post #4285 of 4910 Old 07-23-2019, 12:10 PM
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I tried searching high and low, but couldn't find an answer to this:

Is it normal that HEOS forgets password and login with a short power outage? It does it on both my X3500 and the X6500, and it's annoying the c**p out of me.

Is there a setting somewhere, or is there any way to enter the password through the IOS app? I usually use long (24+ char) passwords, and this is just a royal pain in the rear.

(I get they may want to reset if you for instance sell or similar, but really - on a 5min power outage it can't remember it?)
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post #4286 of 4910 Old 07-23-2019, 12:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by havfrue View Post
I tried searching high and low, but couldn't find an answer to this:

Is it normal that HEOS forgets password and login with a short power outage? It does it on both my X3500 and the X6500, and it's annoying the c**p out of me.

Is there a setting somewhere, or is there any way to enter the password through the IOS app? I usually use long (24+ char) passwords, and this is just a royal pain in the rear.

(I get they may want to reset if you for instance sell or similar, but really - on a 5min power outage it can't remember it?)
It never used to occur, but the same has been occurring for me as well this past year and living in Florida, we have outages at least once a month. As a result I now use a very easy password to remember, "HEOSHEOS".
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post #4287 of 4910 Old 07-23-2019, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
It never used to occur, but the same has been occurring for me as well this past year and living in Florida, we have outages at least once a month. As a result I now use a very easy password to remember, "HEOSHEOS".

I just logged in and changed all your favorites.

You do like Psy, don't you?


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post #4288 of 4910 Old 07-23-2019, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havfrue View Post
I tried searching high and low, but couldn't find an answer to this:

Is it normal that HEOS forgets password and login with a short power outage? It does it on both my X3500 and the X6500, and it's annoying the c**p out of me.

Is there a setting somewhere, or is there any way to enter the password through the IOS app? I usually use long (24+ char) passwords, and this is just a royal pain in the rear.

(I get they may want to reset if you for instance sell or similar, but really - on a 5min power outage it can't remember it?)
I had to re-enter my stupid long password after copying a “saved system”, back from the USB stick. All the custom settings were fine, HEOS was not working, until I re-entered password, all my saved stations, etc. were still intact.

Now oddly enough, had a thunderstorm a few days ago, being in a lower floor apartment I never have issues, but after I heard the first crack of thunder, my Denon shut itself OFF. There was no loss of AC power, and the TrippLite protected power strip looked fine, not sure if there was a power line surge or not, maybe the power strip took the surge if there was one. Anyways I stood in front of the Denon 3500, and watched it slowly reboot, I was happy it came back to life, but I have no idea what happened electrically, as nothing else was effected, and never saw that happen over the past 10 years with the Onkyo AVR. BUT, did not have to redo any settings, and HEOS worked after reboot, odd....
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post #4289 of 4910 Old 07-23-2019, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havfrue View Post
I tried searching high and low, but couldn't find an answer to this:



Is it normal that HEOS forgets password and login with a short power outage? It does it on both my X3500 and the X6500, and it's annoying the c**p out of me.



Is there a setting somewhere, or is there any way to enter the password through the IOS app? I usually use long (24+ char) passwords, and this is just a royal pain in the rear.



(I get they may want to reset if you for instance sell or similar, but really - on a 5min power outage it can't remember it?)
24 character password for HEOS?

WHY??????
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post #4290 of 4910 Old 07-23-2019, 03:26 PM
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24 character password for HEOS?

WHY??????
Just a habit when using a password app.
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