"OFFICIAL" 2018 Denon "S-Series" / "X-Series" AVR Owner's Thread + FAQ (Posts 1-8) - Page 261 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #7801 of 7969 Old 05-22-2020, 09:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mborner View Post
This may have been answered earlier in this thread, but I didn't see it. I see that the X3600H and above now have cooling fans. I also notice that they're placed at the bottom of the unit. Does anyone know which direction this fan is blowing, up or down? thanks.
Have never heard anyone indicate the fan actually powering on as the internal temp must reach at least 158F.
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post #7802 of 7969 Old 05-22-2020, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tb123 View Post
Anyone with external Zone 2 / Zone 3 setup on a 4500H, can you confirm if you can set a default power on volume level?

I have mine set for -35db but they usually just come on at whatever volume I switch them off at. My 4311 used to function perfectly in this respect. I have actually seen it work on the 4500 but it was only very briefly and seems tied up with the same setting on the main zone (when I set the same thing there, it seems to break the external Zones)
Confirm the Zone 2/3 <Power On Volume> (p. 254 Owner's manual) is set to -35dB rather than "Last" which is the factory default or what would be set after doing a microprocessor reset.

If set correctly, refer to post 4 and start down the line of resets.
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post #7803 of 7969 Old 05-22-2020, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Confirm the Zone 2/3 <Power On Volume> (p. 254 Owner's manual) is set to -35dB rather than "Last" which is the factory default or what would be set after doing a microprocessor reset.

If set correctly, refer to post 4 and start down the line of resets.
Thanks JD, I can confirm that I definitely have all 3 zones set as

Main > -25db
Zone 2 > -35db
Zone 3 > -35db

I haven’t tried the resets as yet, however after some playing around have found that if I have the Main Zone switched ON, when I turn on Zone 2, it turns on at the correct volume level (-35db), if I have the Main Zone switched OFF then Zone 2 turns on at whatever the last volume level was set at. This would be why I saw it working once, happened to have the Main Zone on at the same time

The Main Zone turns on at the set volume each time.
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post #7804 of 7969 Old 05-22-2020, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tb123 View Post
Thanks JD, I can confirm that I definitely have all 3 zones set as

Main > -25db
Zone 2 > -35db
Zone 3 > -35db

I haven’t tried the resets as yet, however after some playing around have found that if I have the Main Zone switched ON, when I turn on Zone 2, it turns on at the correct volume level (-35db), if I have the Main Zone switched OFF then Zone 2 turns on at whatever the last volume level was set at. This would be why I saw it working once, happened to have the Main Zone on at the same time

The Main Zone turns on at the set volume each time.
So then either it's a bug with your unit or model wide. Try doing the "Restart" or "soft reset" and see if that resolves the issue.

In the meantime, can another X4500H owner test the above to see if the Zone 2/3 "Power on Volume" is resorting back to LAST when set to a specific dB level and changed to a different volume before being powered off?
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post #7805 of 7969 Old 05-22-2020, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
So then either it's a bug with your unit or model wide. Try doing the "Restart" or "soft reset" and see if that resolves the issue.

In the meantime, can another X4500H owner test the above to see if the Zone 2/3 "Power on Volume" is resorting back to LAST when set to a specific dB level and changed to a different volume before being powered off?
Can I test even if I don't have a Zone 2/3?

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post #7806 of 7969 Old 05-22-2020, 05:40 PM
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AVR-x3500H (new user) + Kenwood 7030 EQ
I have an old Kenwood 7030 EQ on my rack.
Im not trying to loop it in for sound adjustment or anything, really just to tie in the spectrum analyser.
I figured I could just send an RCA from one of the preouts over to the 7030....all it needs is “signal”.
If tried all the preouts and the only one that works is zone 2.
I dont know why the front preouts dont work, is there any type of setting im missing?
I have directv, xbox one and xbox 360, all HDMI into the 3500.....
again, the 7030 spectrum picks up when im connected to zone 2, but I dont see why it shouldn't work just using one of the preouts from the main.....
????
thanks for your help!
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post #7807 of 7969 Old 05-22-2020, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
So then either it's a bug with your unit or model wide. Try doing the "Restart" or "soft reset" and see if that resolves the issue.

In the meantime, can another X4500H owner test the above to see if the Zone 2/3 "Power on Volume" is resorting back to LAST when set to a specific dB level and changed to a different volume before being powered off?
Neither “reset” or “soft reset” fixed it.

I’ll try a full factory reset later
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post #7808 of 7969 Old 05-22-2020, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
So then either it's a bug with your unit or model wide. Try doing the "Restart" or "soft reset" and see if that resolves the issue.

In the meantime, can another X4500H owner test the above to see if the Zone 2/3 "Power on Volume" is resorting back to LAST when set to a specific dB level and changed to a different volume before being powered off?
It seems to be something particular to my setup.

I saved the config and did a couple of full factory resets from the menu.

While the 4500 was default, set a power on level for Z2 and it worked as expected while the main zone was off. I also tried setting a power on level for the main zone, but Z2 still worked (I didn’t try setting up Z3).

I loaded my config back in and it went straight back to the previous issue. I tried setting Z3 as “last” just fir the fun of it, but still the same issue.

Looks like I’m going to have to sit down and do a full setup again and hope that works.
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post #7809 of 7969 Old 05-22-2020, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tb123 View Post
It seems to be something particular to my setup.

I saved the config and did a couple of full factory resets from the menu.

While the 4500 was default, set a power on level for Z2 and it worked as expected while the main zone was off. I also tried setting a power on level for the main zone, but Z2 still worked (I didn’t try setting up Z3).

I loaded my config back in and it went straight back to the previous issue. I tried setting Z3 as “last” just fir the fun of it, but still the same issue.

Looks like I’m going to have to sit down and do a full setup again and hope that works.
Well, after setting everything up from default, I had it working, but now it’s stopped working again which is quite frustrating.

It seems as long as I have either the Main Zone or Zone 3 active, then Zone 2 will power on at the set level. If I have Main / Zone 2 active, then Zone 3 will power on at the correct level, but if no zones are active, then Zone 2 or Zone 3 just power on at their last used level.

This is using both the physical remote and Denon app.

Last edited by tb123; 05-22-2020 at 08:45 PM.
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post #7810 of 7969 Old 05-22-2020, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
Amp will definitely be class D. I think we should figure out how to disconnect the offending video card. I don't do upscaling and once set up, I could live without the OSD if it really helps.
IMHO it's the high bias current at idle that Denon/Marantz amps design in that accounts for their higher temps but if in an open air environment(no obstructions within 8 inches or so of any enclosure slot) and using Auto Eco mode the receiver is still giving off considerable heat something else is going on because with no load on the amps the top or sides should be just slightly warm at best. Those impedance settings will only effect things if you connect up a difficult to drive 4 Ohm load at higher levels. My 2016 X4300H at idle with only 1.5 inches of top clearance and fully open to the room on both sides only runs slightly warm to the touch but the room is small and I keep a ceiling fan going 24/7 for air circulation. You might also invest in a cheap IR gun off of Amazon and find out actually what temps you are looking at. I saw a poster one time show pictures of where he added small cheap Chinese heat sinks to each one of the tops of his receivers HDMI boards individual chips. I've replaced laptop processor chips using a similar method with a heat paste syringe. Didn't have a 3 year factory warranty to worry about though.
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post #7811 of 7969 Old 05-22-2020, 11:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by aj9 View Post
AVR-x3500H (new user) + Kenwood 7030 EQ
I have an old Kenwood 7030 EQ on my rack.
Im not trying to loop it in for sound adjustment or anything, really just to tie in the spectrum analyser.
I figured I could just send an RCA from one of the preouts over to the 7030....all it needs is “signal”.
If tried all the preouts and the only one that works is zone 2.
I dont know why the front preouts dont work, is there any type of setting im missing?
I have directv, xbox one and xbox 360, all HDMI into the 3500.....
again, the 7030 spectrum picks up when im connected to zone 2, but I dont see why it shouldn't work just using one of the preouts from the main.....
????
thanks for your help!
The main zone pre-outs should all be hot (ie. there is no setting to turn them on) which is what some have used when setting up an identical setup in another room or what those who have moved on to DIRAC use with REW prior to passing the signal on to an external amp. Refer to post 4 and do a "restart" or "soft reset". Also, if you have another amp or AVR, trying connecting the pre-outs to it as a test.
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post #7812 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 01:06 AM
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Hello.

I have Denon X4500H and so far I'm very happy with it, I also have Yamaha 5.1 system (NS-777, NS-444- NS-333 and NS-300 sub, and I must say I'm happy how X4500H makes them sound even if I know they're not that great speakers) I run Audyssey and it did set my fronts as ''Large'', center at 80Hz, and surrounds at 120Hz, I know that in most cases fronts should be set as ''Small'', so I try to run Audyssey again and yet again the same settings has been choosed by it, I manually changed my fronts to ''Small'' and tried both 80Hz and 60Hz, the thing is that they sould worse when I change it, if I stick to what Audyssey set the sound is ''fuller'' even guitars sounds much more ''punchier'', but the problem is that my subwoofer stays silent, unless I enable LFE+Main, and now the tricky part, if I enable it I can still choose crossover for my fronts, but I don't think my ears can tell any difference beside that subwoofer also plays some small portion on the bass now.
My question is what's the point of being able to set crossover for fronts in LFE+Main mode if they are set as "Large'' anyway?

Thank you in advance and I'm sorry if that has been answered before.
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post #7813 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Madmax67 View Post
IMHO it's the high bias current at idle that Denon/Marantz amps design in that accounts for their higher temps but if in an open air environment(no obstructions within 8 inches or so of any enclosure slot) and using Auto Eco mode the receiver is still giving off considerable heat something else is going on because with no load on the amps the top or sides should be just slightly warm at best. Those impedance settings will only effect things if you connect up a difficult to drive 4 Ohm load at higher levels. My 2016 X4300H at idle with only 1.5 inches of top clearance and fully open to the room on both sides only runs slightly warm to the touch but the room is small and I keep a ceiling fan going 24/7 for air circulation. You might also invest in a cheap IR gun off of Amazon and find out actually what temps you are looking at. I saw a poster one time show pictures of where he added small cheap Chinese heat sinks to each one of the tops of his receivers HDMI boards individual chips. I've replaced laptop processor chips using a similar method with a heat paste syringe. Didn't have a 3 year factory warranty to worry about though.
When I came back to the media room after an hour break, I noticed how warm the room was at the door way and I smelled hot electronics. I immediately went over to the Denon and it was hot to the touch. It was considerably warmer than my hand, probably around 110 degrees. I shut it off. I appreciate the ideas but clearly the heat is not trapped inside so coming up with ways to dissipate the heat faster aren't going to be the solution I'm looking for. I need to stop the heat production.

I am going to experiment this weekend with this and when my French-made Hypex NCore amp gets here I can set the AVR to 11-channel mode and use the front preouts and go full low-power mode (4 ohm) on the rest of the amps when using just the front speakers. If that doesn't do the trick, you might be right, but we'll see. Someone posted in here last year that it worked for him.

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post #7814 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
When I came back to the media room after an hour break, I noticed how warm the room was at the door way and I smelled hot electronics. I immediately went over to the Denon and it was hot to the touch. It was considerably warmer than my hand, probably around 110 degrees.
You've got another problem going on then because 110 degrees Fahrenheit is not hot for an AV receiver. Dual active fans at the bottom of the receivers case don't even turn on until internal temps reach 158 degrees and most who use some type of external fan set it to about 90 or a bit under.

Quote:
I appreciate the ideas but clearly the heat is not trapped inside so coming up with ways to dissipate the heat faster aren't going to be the solution I'm looking for. I need to stop the heat production.
I never said the heat was trapped inside and 110 degrees is not that hot for a linear power supply. I was basing that one posters hack on something higher than the temps you are describing. That particular hack is really only a mitigater for the fairly expensive HDMI boards chipset and not for cooling anything else in the enclosure. That's a product of the inefficiency of a class AB amp(up to 40% I think) combined with a high bias current at idle. Active and passive cooling techniques in the case itself are well known mitigators for what you're describing.



Quote:
I am going to experiment this weekend with this and when my French-made Hypex NCore amp gets here I can set the AVR to 11-channel mode and use the front preouts. If that doesn't do the trick, you might be right, but we'll see. Someone posted in here last year that it worked for him.
The internal amps of a receiver don't get turned off even when using an external amp even with that L/R 11 channel pre out disconnect mode and the efficiency of a class D amp is best seen under a load. My receivers just as warm with my 5 channel Outlaw 5000 at idle as it was without it. I have Hypex modules in my subs so I'm familiar with them. Linear power supply though because SMPS aren't usually the best design for the instant power sub's require.

Quote:
and go full low-power mode (4 ohm) on the rest of the amps when using just the front speakers.
If this is referring to using the low impedance setting in the receiver that's a bad idea. If it's referring to using Eco mode On with the mains powered from an external amp that's a good idea. Good luck.

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post #7815 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 06:35 AM
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Has anyone upgraded from the X2400H to the X2500H?
Looking at the specs they seem very similar, however some reviewers have said it is more powerful and "muscular" over the X2400H. For someone with 1 sub, and a 5.1 system, running Triad speakers, wondering if I would notice a huge difference.

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post #7816 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by aj9 View Post
AVR-x3500H (new user) + Kenwood 7030 EQ
I have an old Kenwood 7030 EQ on my rack.
Im not trying to loop it in for sound adjustment or anything, really just to tie in the spectrum analyser.
I figured I could just send an RCA from one of the preouts over to the 7030....all it needs is &#226;€œsignal&#226;€.
If tried all the preouts and the only one that works is zone 2.
I dont know why the front preouts dont work, is there any type of setting im missing?
I have directv, xbox one and xbox 360, all HDMI into the 3500.....
again, the 7030 spectrum picks up when im connected to zone 2, but I dont see why it shouldn't work just using one of the preouts from the main.....
????
thanks for your help!
The main zone pre-outs should all be hot (ie. there is no setting to turn them on) which is what some have used when setting up an identical setup in another room or what those who have moved on to DIRAC use with REW prior to passing the signal on to an external amp. Refer to post 4 and do a "restart" or "soft reset". Also, if you have another amp or AVR, trying connecting the pre-outs to it as a test.
Technically I could connect my powered sub to one of the preouts to confirm its active/working....correct?
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post #7817 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
Amp will definitely be class D. I think we should figure out how to disconnect the offending video card. I don't do upscaling and once set up, I could live without the OSD if it really helps.

Can you please comment on what AMP options are on your table? And what your budget is?


Thanks
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post #7818 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by aj9 View Post
Technically I could connect my powered sub to one of the preouts to confirm its active/working....correct?
Sure could.

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post #7819 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 01:37 PM
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You've got another problem going on then because 110 degrees Fahrenheit is not hot for an AV receiver. Dual active fans at the bottom of the receivers case don't even turn on until internal temps reach 158 degrees and most who use some type of external fan set it to about 90 or a bit under.
Just to be clear I'm talking about hand feel on the top of the case. Internally the temperature would be much higher, if it could be measured. Probably at least 20 degrees. Again these are guesses based on hand feel. The fact that my small room was significantly heated by a unit that was not even being used is a serious cause of concern, and I need to find solutions to reduce the heat production.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Madmax67 View Post
If this is referring to using the low impedance setting in the receiver that's a bad idea. If it's referring to using Eco mode On with the mains powered from an external amp that's a good idea. Good luck.
I don't think the 4 ohm trick would result in any negative side effects if none of the amps are being used anyway in a 2 channel setup, right?

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post #7820 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 01:39 PM
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Can you please comment on what AMP options are on your table? And what your budget is?
Sure, I went with this: https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/power...m-p-14278.html
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post #7821 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 02:47 PM
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Just to be clear I'm talking about hand feel on the top of the case. Internally the temperature would be much higher, if it could be measured. Probably at least 20 degrees.
You were crystal clear in my mind so nothing I said was based on anything but that assumption. It can be measured with an IR gun but again assuming stilll 28 degrees lower than the OEM specs for kicking on the internal active fans so not a big deal. The better fix is always added ventilation and or an external cooling fan over an expensive albeit "worth every penny for what it does" external class D amp. You fix the issue either for free with placement or on the cheap with a fan but this is my advice for the many not the few and probably not for you with the setup and level of expertise you have. I'd love an N core amp or 2 in my setup but budget wont allow so I'm a bit jealous.


Quote:
Again these are guesses based on hand feel. The fact that my small room was significantly heated by a unit that was not even being used is a serious cause of concern, and I need to find solutions to reduce the heat production.
If it's literally heating your room like a space heater would then you've got either a room circ problem or a receiver problem. I'm in a sealed 1040 cubic foot room in the heart of Texas in the summertime on the second story of a house built in the mid 70's and never had anything heat related warming my space coming from my Denon AV receivers. I do properly run a self installed ceiling fan though and by properly I mean blade direction based on time of year. My receiver top is only ever slightly warm at best at idle which is why this is such a head scratcher to me.





Quote:
I don't think the 4 ohm trick would result in any negative side effects if none of the amps are being used anyway in a 2 channel setup, right?
It's a dumbed down version of the Eco mode setting so why not just use that instead? I do. Trick is the right word for it as well. I'm just against using that feature in general as newbs think they need to impedance match their amp to their speakers when they don't. At lower listening levels I admit it probably does no harm but still can cause issues at higher levels as 4 Ohm loads need power. For your use case not a big deal but I'd still just use Eco On mode.
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post #7822 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 04:30 PM
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If it's literally heating your room like a space heater would then you've got either a room circ problem or a receiver problem. I'm in a sealed 1040 cubic foot room in the heart of Texas in the summertime on the second story of a house built in the mid 70's and never had anything heat related warming my space coming from my Denon AV receivers. I do properly run a self installed ceiling fan though and by properly I mean blade direction based on time of year. My receiver top is only ever slightly warm at best at idle which is why this is such a head scratcher to me.
Room is a 1430 cu ft bedroom on the 2nd floor. It does have cheap, townhome builders-grade windows making the room susceptible to heating on hot days (or at least I think that's the cause). I'm just reluctant to spend the big bucks for new ones. But that's another issue - I just don't want to add onto it with hot A/V components.

Regarding the AVR, the source of the heat is clearly right over the top of this (pictured is the X3600H, but I understand the internals are largely the same):

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Maybe there is something about my settings that is causing the hot idle. I have video scaling and overlays OFF, so there shouldn't be much contribution from the GPU. Amps just set to 5.1 for now, if that makes any difference. Only 2 speakers are hooked up to Front L and R, set to large. They are 4 ohm speakers: Buchardt S400.

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It's a dumbed down version of the Eco mode setting so why not just use that instead? I do. Trick is the right word for it as well. I'm just against using that feature in general as newbs think they need to impedance match their amp to their speakers when they don't. At lower listening levels I admit it probably does no harm but still can cause issues at higher levels as 4 Ohm loads need power. For your use case not a big deal but I'd still just use Eco On mode.
I agree, general advise is to leave it alone. But maybe it's another tool in the box, in combination with the eco mode.

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post #7823 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 07:42 PM
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Room is a 1430 cu ft bedroom on the 2nd floor. It does have cheap, townhome builders-grade windows making the room susceptible to heating on hot days (or at least I think that's the cause). I'm just reluctant to spend the big bucks for new ones. But that's another issue - I just don't want to add onto it with hot A/V components.



Regarding the AVR, the source of the heat is clearly right over the top of this (pictured is the X3600H, but I understand the internals are largely the same):







Maybe there is something about my settings that is causing the hot idle. I have video scaling and overlays OFF, so there shouldn't be much contribution from the GPU. Amps just set to 5.1 for now, if that makes any difference. Only 2 speakers are hooked up to Front L and R, set to large. They are 4 ohm speakers: Buchardt S400.





I agree, general advise is to leave it alone. But maybe it's another tool in the box, in combination with the eco mode.
I think that top one is the HDMI board and below that is the video card but I'm not 100% certain on that. Had someone tell me the removal process once for getting at the internal speaker connections and it involved first removing the top HDMI board. I get the new window guys knocking on my door at least a few times a week and I'm not too interested in spending a car note to replace all my windows either. Hopefully the Hypex fixes your issue but I'm skeptical.

Only way to know for sure is to try it out though and see if it helps. I'm just glad my 4300 doesn't have this issue least in my space it doesn't. My experience with Denon receivers is they run a bit hotter than Yamaha but not as hot as older Onkyo's. Certain newer Onkyos use class D. My last Denon ran for 12 years straight without ever being powered off the last 6 years or so and is still going as far as I know for some deal oriented Goodwill shopper.

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post #7824 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 08:36 PM
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I bought the NCore before the Denon because I wanted to give the S400's their own stout amp no matter what I did with the AVR - but it turns out it may be a great match with the Denon's ability to power the other 9 channels, among the other reasons we're talking about.

I will report that I had the 4500 running for several hours today, idling as I was elsewhere in the house, just like last time. Only this time, I had the AVR in 4 ohm mode. It wasn't as hot. There is definitely a difference in temps, maybe 10F or so. It's still pretty warm but it's no longer alarmingly warm. That's promising.

My X4000 reached around these same temps and was very reliable, but the temps from the X4500 the other night in normal 8 ohm mode is new territory for me.

On that note, it would be nice if we could turn off everything we are not using - especially the amps and the GPU.

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post #7825 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 09:27 PM
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I bought the NCore before the Denon because I wanted to give the S400's their own stout amp no matter what I did with the AVR - but it turns out it may be a great match with the Denon's ability to power the other 9 channels, among the other reasons we're talking about.



I will report that I had the 4500 running for several hours today, idling as I was elsewhere in the house, just like last time. Only this time, I had the AVR in 4 ohm mode. It wasn't as hot. There is definitely a difference in temps, maybe 10F or so. It's still pretty warm but it's no longer alarmingly warm. That's promising.



My X4000 reached around these same temps and was very reliable, but the temps from the X4500 the other night in normal 8 ohm mode is new territory for me.



On that note, it would be nice if we could turn off everything we are not using - especially the amps and the GPU.
Good to hear but there is no such thing as an impedance matching mode in an amp. It's a term made up by their marketing people. Others get similar temp lowering results by simply using Auto Eco mode which will automatically stop limiting the rail voltage at a certain listening level unlike using the impedance switch setting. For those who use external amplification to power the bed layer Eco On mode works as well. There's simply never a good reason to take the impedance setting off its default setting with these 2 Eco modes available.

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post #7826 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 09:42 PM
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Good to hear but there is no such thing as an impedance matching mode in an amp. It's a term made up by their marketing people. Others get similar temp lowering results by simply using Auto Eco mode which will automatically stop limiting the rail voltage at a certain listening level unlike using the impedance switch setting. For those who use external amplification to power the bed layer Eco On mode works as well. There's simply never a good reason to take the impedance setting off its default setting with these 2 Eco modes available.
I get what you're saying about the impedance setting - but it actually wasn't just for marketing, it was to meet test bench specs. The AVRs get too hot when running 4 ohm speakers (go figure!). So, in order to be able to claim 4 ohm and not end up in trouble, they lower the voltage.

I'm already using ECO mode and that was ON when I made my initial report. There should be no downsides in my case to lowering the voltage further for the amps I'm not using with the 4 ohm setting.

Maybe in the future we will have all Class D amplified AVRs. The way things are going, that is probably going to happen, but not today.

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post #7827 of 7969 Old 05-23-2020, 10:50 PM
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I get what you're saying about the impedance setting - but it actually wasn't just for marketing, it was to meet test bench specs. The AVRs get too hot when running 4 ohm speakers (go figure!). So, in order to be able to claim 4 ohm and not end up in trouble, they lower the voltage.
I'm aware of all that but that's still done for marketing purposes . We had it going on in the auto industry as well.

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Quote:
I'm already using ECO mode and that was ON when I made my initial report. There should be no downsides in my case to lowering the voltage further for the amps I'm not using with the 4 ohm setting.
Eco mode noticeably dropped my AVR's temp without changing any impedance setting. When you change the default impedance setting it disables any Eco mode setting under Setup->General so it's not cumulative.



Quote:
Maybe in the future we will have all Class D amplified AVRs. The way things are going, that is probably going to happen, but not today.
Class D has to do a better job driving low impedance loads consistently at a reasonable price point but it's getting closer to being the standard for sure. I think in 5 years or so all AVR makes will offer some type of class D.

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post #7828 of 7969 Old 05-24-2020, 02:16 AM
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When you change the default impedance setting it disables any Eco mode setting under Setup->General so it's not cumulative.
Really? This is the first I've heard this. I'll do more testing...it's only Day 3. Thanks!

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post #7829 of 7969 Old 05-24-2020, 02:30 AM
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Really? This is the first I've heard this. I'll do more testing...it's only Day 3. Thanks!
That is new. What is the ECO mode then?
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post #7830 of 7969 Old 05-24-2020, 03:29 AM
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That is new. What is the ECO mode then?
Not new. Manual is readily available here....http://downloads.denon.com/documentm...df_im_v00a.pdf
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