Onkyo TX-NR787 Has 9-Channel Atmos and DTS:X for $799 MSRP - Page 11 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #301 of 331 Old 02-20-2020, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrifttech View Post
Yes, I believe it does. I'll give that a try thanks. On the Tidal app via the receiver I've been able to listen between 41khz/16bit and 48khz/24bit, but nothing higher. I can tell a difference between those two especially Spotify, which isn't CD quality Hi Fi, and Tidal Hi Fi at both 41khz and 48khz 12 and 24 bit respectively. So I'm curious about 96khz to see if it's worth it before I would invest in a MQA audio streamer because I do enjoy the difference I've heard so far.
The difference is worth it. And the catalog for me too. Not just at 96Khz but also

Take a look at mqalist.com
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post #302 of 331 Old 02-20-2020, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Neilson View Post
My TX-NR787 sometimes makes a loud click sound whenever I am watching a TV show or a movie and there is a loud bass sound. The click sound doesn't come out of my speakers; it comes out of the receiver. I have a 5.0 speaker setup (see the speakers in my signature); I don't have a subwoofer. My KX-12 Series 2 front speakers have large woofers; see their specs (my signature should link to the official AVS Forum thread for DCM KX series speakers, and the specs are linked to from the first post or the second post, I think).
Has anyone else experienced this click sound due to loud bass sounds out of full-range front speakers that have large woofers, or due to something else?
Mine does this also.
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post #303 of 331 Old 02-20-2020, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrifttech View Post
Mine does this also.
That's probably the amp relay switching modes, my Integra did this when my sub died and I was running full range until I set it to 4 ohm default.
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post #304 of 331 Old 02-21-2020, 02:08 PM
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Is anyone here using 2 subs with this amp? How does the setup process account for it if both outputs are split from the same source?

OPTOMA UHD51A 4K projector + Elite Screens 100" 16X9 screen
ONKYO TX-NR787 ATMOS/DTS X in a 7.2.2 configuration
PARADIGM Monitor 7s L+R, CC350 Center, Monitor 3 X4, Mini Monitor X2
PARADIGM PS1000 X 2 + ENERGY CS12 (near field)
4 X Dayton Audio TT25-16 PUCK tactile transducers
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post #305 of 331 Old 02-21-2020, 03:48 PM
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@crutzulee I believe (like many others) it has an internal Y splitter so each sub gets the same signal. I imagine accueq acts like there is 1 sub, so each of them get the same correction?
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post #306 of 331 Old 03-08-2020, 02:12 PM
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Question

I've calibrated this AVR using its automated calibration and have set the volume display settings to "relative". After calibration, is the relative value 0.0 dB (reference volume) set to THX's reference volume (85 dB) or is it set to some other reference value? Furthermore, is it set such that I hear audio at that volume at my sitting position, no matter how far away I am from my speakers (within the limits of being in the THX Select 2 class) and no matter what my room's size is (within the limits of being in the THX Select 2 class)?

In addition, how do the following quotes apply to my question?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tingham View Post
82 is reference. According to the manual, if you can stand it that loud, it should say "82.0Ref" on the display. I'm using the relative scale.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge DeBoulet View Post
I don't think the displayed volume level is absolute. It's "accuracy" is affected by input source levels and things like IntelliVolume tweaking. Set IntelliVolume to +12dB for your BR player input and you would have to set your receiver's master volume at -27dB to get the same apparent sound level as 0dB for IntelliVolume and -15dB master volume with the same input. Switch to your Fire TV and you'd have to crank it back up to -15dB to get the theater experience.

I'm just saying that the master volume display is very likely offset from the "true" reference level of 0dB by -12dB or so to accommodate the maximum IntelliVolume gain.

Caveat: I'm not remotely qualified as an audio engineer. I did sell home audio equipment back in the 70s and early 80s, though ... and I slept in a Holiday Inn Express last night
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxbat121 View Post
On your Onkyo, change the the volume display settings to display relative dbs and that will be the same for any brands when properly calibrated.

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This last quote might answer my question, but I'm still seeking clarification.

TV: LG 47LW5700, AVR: Onkyo TX-NR787, speakers: DCM KX speakers:DCM KX-12 Series 2 (as front left and front right), DCM KX Center Series 2, DCM KX-6 Series 2 (as side surround left and right), sources: Xbox One S (with Kinect and Kinect for Windows adapter), Playstation 2 (fat model), Nintendo GameCube (model with digital AV output) with GameBoy Player, Panasonic VCR (PV-4661), PC: Microsoft Surface Pro (5th generation), phone: iPhone 7 Plus
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post #307 of 331 Old 03-09-2020, 07:54 AM
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The relative volume level ensures you get the same sound volume with the test tones or same source material at the calibration location. Of course, if you play a loud music source vs soft music source will have different sound levels. Reference is just that, reference. So that next time when you switch to a different (auto-calibration capable) receiver, or a different set of speakers, you still can use your familiar volume settings as before. For example, mine is always set at -25db for last decade or so with 4 different AVRs and two different speaker sets.

Don't confuse that with auto volume leveling. That's totally different things.

The reason to use relative volume setting is that it is implemented in a standard way. If you use absolute volume, I have seen different AVR brands assign different meanings or scales to those levels so that you can't compare them from one brand to another.
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Last edited by Foxbat121; 03-09-2020 at 08:01 AM.
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post #308 of 331 Old 03-09-2020, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Neilson View Post
My TX-NR787 sometimes makes a loud click sound whenever I am watching a TV show or a movie and there is a loud bass sound. The click sound doesn't come out of my speakers; it comes out of the receiver. I have a 5.0 speaker setup (see the speakers in my signature); I don't have a subwoofer. My KX-12 Series 2 front speakers have large woofers; see their specs (my signature should link to the official AVS Forum thread for DCM KX series speakers, and the specs are linked to from the first post or the second post, I think).
Has anyone else experienced this click sound due to loud bass sounds out of full-range front speakers that have large woofers, or due to something else?
Quote:
Originally Posted by theike View Post
Mine clicks like when it power cycles usually after a certain amount of time being powered on. Haven’t noticed it correlating to certain tracks...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrifttech View Post
Mine does this also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by qirex View Post
That's probably the amp relay switching modes, my Integra did this when my sub died and I was running full range until I set it to 4 ohm default.
Would you mind explaining this?

I spoke with someone in Onkyo's technical support department several months ago, and here is the note that I wrote: the clicking noise is the receiver activating or deactivating any of my speakers when they aren't being used, when the movie is using all of those speakers but isn't, momentarily, using one or more of those speakers and the AVR isn't--at that moment--sending power to it.

I might try to get clarification from Onkyo's technical support department later. I'm not even sure that what I was told is correct.

TV: LG 47LW5700, AVR: Onkyo TX-NR787, speakers: DCM KX speakers:DCM KX-12 Series 2 (as front left and front right), DCM KX Center Series 2, DCM KX-6 Series 2 (as side surround left and right), sources: Xbox One S (with Kinect and Kinect for Windows adapter), Playstation 2 (fat model), Nintendo GameCube (model with digital AV output) with GameBoy Player, Panasonic VCR (PV-4661), PC: Microsoft Surface Pro (5th generation), phone: iPhone 7 Plus
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post #309 of 331 Old 03-10-2020, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxbat121 View Post
The relative volume level ensures you get the same sound volume with the test tones or same source material at the calibration location. [...] So that next time when you switch to a different (auto-calibration capable) receiver, or a different set of speakers, you still can use your familiar volume settings as before. [...] The reason to use relative volume setting is that it is implemented in a standard way.
Thanks for answering that question, but one question remains:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Neilson View Post
After calibration, is the relative value 0.0 dB (reference volume) set to THX's reference volume (85 dB) or is it set to some other reference value?

TV: LG 47LW5700, AVR: Onkyo TX-NR787, speakers: DCM KX speakers:DCM KX-12 Series 2 (as front left and front right), DCM KX Center Series 2, DCM KX-6 Series 2 (as side surround left and right), sources: Xbox One S (with Kinect and Kinect for Windows adapter), Playstation 2 (fat model), Nintendo GameCube (model with digital AV output) with GameBoy Player, Panasonic VCR (PV-4661), PC: Microsoft Surface Pro (5th generation), phone: iPhone 7 Plus
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post #310 of 331 Old 03-11-2020, 04:38 PM
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Yes, it is. But no one would listen at that level.
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post #311 of 331 Old 03-23-2020, 05:45 PM
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No ATMOS on Onkyo TX-NR787

Hi All,

I recently purchased an Onkyo receiver but I am not able to obtain ATMOS audio

-I have a Roku Ultra 4640X (9.2 firmware) connected to the "BD/DVD" input of the Onkyo TX-NR787 (firmware 1071-0000-1060-0011)
-My Sony X900e is connected to the "main" output of the Onkyo TX-NR787
-The Onkyo TX-NR787 is configured in 5.1.4
-I set the Onkyo receiver to Enhanced HDMI (onkyoXcom/manual/sup/upd/hdmi_4k_onk.pdf)
-The Roku Ultra detects a 4K 60Hz HDR Display
-I'm using HDMI high-speed cables

-On Amazon Prime, Jack Ryan is available in HDR, but only 5.1 (No Atmos Logo)
-On Disney+, Star Wars is available in 4K HDR10, but only 5.1 (No Atmos Logo)

Any tips on getting ATMOS audio on my new receiver?

Thanks!
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post #312 of 331 Old 03-23-2020, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by js999 View Post
Hi All,



I recently purchased an Onkyo receiver but I am not able to obtain ATMOS audio



-I have a Roku Ultra 4640X (9.2 firmware) connected to the "BD/DVD" input of the Onkyo TX-NR787 (firmware 1071-0000-1060-0011)

-My Sony X900e is connected to the "main" output of the Onkyo TX-NR787

-The Onkyo TX-NR787 is configured in 5.1.4

-I set the Onkyo receiver to Enhanced HDMI (onkyoXcom/manual/sup/upd/hdmi_4k_onk.pdf)

-The Roku Ultra detects a 4K 60Hz HDR Display

-I'm using HDMI high-speed cables



-On Amazon Prime, Jack Ryan is available in HDR, but only 5.1 (No Atmos Logo)

-On Disney+, Star Wars is available in 4K HDR10, but only 5.1 (No Atmos Logo)



Any tips on getting ATMOS audio on my new receiver?



Thanks!
At this time, I would test Atmos from a physical media, no streaming.
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post #313 of 331 Old 03-25-2020, 10:44 AM
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Question Quick Menu --> AccuEQ Room Calibration default setting

When I first set up my TX-NR787 using its automatic calibration routine, and was browsing through its settings afterwards, I noticed that under quick menu --> AccuEQ --> AccuEQ Room Calibration, the selected setting was "On (ex. L/R)". Since this AVR had been used before I bought it, I assumed that that had been the selected setting of its previous owner. I changed the setting to "On (All Ch)". However, I recently went through its setup routine again, and yesterday I was browsing through the quick menu settings again, and I noticed that that setting went back to "On (ex. L/R)". I'd like to know if the default setting is "On (ex. L/R)" and, if so, why. I could go through the setup routine again to find out, but it would be very tedious moving the setup microphone around from position to position again, and I hope that someone who might have an easier time of finding this out or who already knows the answer will tell us.

TV: LG 47LW5700, AVR: Onkyo TX-NR787, speakers: DCM KX speakers:DCM KX-12 Series 2 (as front left and front right), DCM KX Center Series 2, DCM KX-6 Series 2 (as side surround left and right), sources: Xbox One S (with Kinect and Kinect for Windows adapter), Playstation 2 (fat model), Nintendo GameCube (model with digital AV output) with GameBoy Player, Panasonic VCR (PV-4661), PC: Microsoft Surface Pro (5th generation), phone: iPhone 7 Plus
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post #314 of 331 Old 03-26-2020, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Neilson View Post
When I first set up my TX-NR787 using its automatic calibration routine, and was browsing through its settings afterwards, I noticed that under quick menu --> AccuEQ --> AccuEQ Room Calibration, the selected setting was "On (ex. L/R)". Since this AVR had been used before I bought it, I assumed that that had been the selected setting of its previous owner. I changed the setting to "On (All Ch)". However, I recently went through its setup routine again, and yesterday I was browsing through the quick menu settings again, and I noticed that that setting went back to "On (ex. L/R)". I'd like to know if the default setting is "On (ex. L/R)" and, if so, why. I could go through the setup routine again to find out, but it would be very tedious moving the setup microphone around from position to position again, and I hope that someone who might have an easier time of finding this out or who already knows the answer will tell us.
Page 130 of Manual::::::

AccuEQ Room Calibration: Enable or disable the equalizer function that
corrects for sound distortion caused by the acoustic environment of the room.
To enable this setting, normally select "On (All Ch)", and to disable only the front
speakers, select "On (ex. L/R)". The setting can be set for each input.

So, its an input dependent setting.

Samsung UN82MU8000 4K UHD TV | Onkyo TN-NR787 9.2 AVR with Klipsch RP-600M L&R and R-34C front stage speakers | Klipsch G-12 surrounds | 4 Atrium 5 front & rear Tops | Dual BIC RtR EV-1200 Subs | 5.1.4 Atmos system | Samsung UBD M9500 BD Player | Logitech Harmony 700 | TIVO BOLT OTA 849000 | AppleTV 4K | HT PC |
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post #315 of 331 Old 04-01-2020, 03:39 PM
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Picked up a refurb model 787 the other day. It's replacing a 2008 Pioneer Elite VSX-01TXH. I'm continuing to run my 7.1 system but will eventually add a couple of ceiling speakers to take advantage of Atmos / X. I have a couple of questions as the manual isn't particularly clear.

1. The rear of the unit has 2 HDMI outputs and 6 inputs (1 input on the front labelled AUX). Input #6 is not labelled like the other 5 inputs and there doesn't seem to be a input button for it.

2. Listening Mode. Say I'm playing a BD with DTS-Master 7.1. Pressing info. shows "Input DTS-Master 5.1" Output shows the mode you have selected. I notice quite a difference when "Direct" is selected rather than the others. The sound is much fuller with Direct. The manual states that Direct bypasses all processing. Does that include the auto-calibration feature?

Thank-you.
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post #316 of 331 Old 04-01-2020, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by js999 View Post
Hi All,

I recently purchased an Onkyo receiver but I am not able to obtain ATMOS audio

-I have a Roku Ultra 4640X (9.2 firmware) connected to the "BD/DVD" input of the Onkyo TX-NR787 (firmware 1071-0000-1060-0011)
-My Sony X900e is connected to the "main" output of the Onkyo TX-NR787
-The Onkyo TX-NR787 is configured in 5.1.4
-I set the Onkyo receiver to Enhanced HDMI (onkyoXcom/manual/sup/upd/hdmi_4k_onk.pdf)
-The Roku Ultra detects a 4K 60Hz HDR Display
-I'm using HDMI high-speed cables

-On Amazon Prime, Jack Ryan is available in HDR, but only 5.1 (No Atmos Logo)
-On Disney+, Star Wars is available in 4K HDR10, but only 5.1 (No Atmos Logo)

Any tips on getting ATMOS audio on my new receiver?

Thanks!
Make sure your Roku Audio settings are on Auto(Dolby Digital Plus, DTS)

Afro GT
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post #317 of 331 Old 05-08-2020, 11:39 PM
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Well, I just wrote a long detailed post regarding all the issues I ran into with the initial setup of my new NR797 today, and wiped it out with one idiot keystroke. Here's the distilled version...

Trying to get the new receiver to play nice with a Sony XBR-75X900F TV via ARC (the hdmi 3 input on that TV), an Xbox One S, a Sony Bluray player, a Toshiba HD DVD player, a Roku Ultra, and a Raspberry Pi 3 running Kodi. My prior receiver had no HDMI capabilities, so the Xbox, Roku, and Pi were all plugged directly into the TV, and I ran an optical cable from the TV out to my old receiver for sound... maxing out at Dolby Digital due to the constraints of optical digital audio. Bluray and HD DVD players each had their own optical audio outs to the receiver, and their HDMI outputs went to an HDMI switcher, then on to the television. It all worked great, but no DD+, DTS:X, ATMOS, or other upgraded discrete surround formats past dolby digital and DTS ES, and the HDMI switcher would get kind of buggy at times. All of the gear other than the Roku, Pi, and Xbox were located behind the viewing couch, and cables/wires were run through walls and ceiling to reach the speakers and television. The HDMI cable from the switcher to the TV is 25 feet long, and it's a pretty early one. Bluray playback has never been a problem and has always looked great. UHD discs played on the Xbox have always worked fine, too, but that's connected directly to the TV with a 6 foot cable. NONE of my cables are the newer 2.0 HDMI spec.

After hooking everything up today directly to the receiver, still behind the viewing couch, with the only connection to the television now being the aforementioned 25 foot HDMI cable to the HDMI ARC port on the TV from the NR797, I ran into a PILE of weirdness. Pictures from the Bluray and HD DVD looked great, but I couldn't get any sound. Couldn't get anything from the Roku at all. No sound from the TV back to the receiver via ARC. No stranger to troubleshooting, I disconnected everything, reset the receiver to factory settings, re-ran the initial setup procedure, and hooked up JUST the television via ARC and the Bluray player. I had read in this forum about holding down the BD input button while pressing the power button on the 797 to toggle back and forth between standard and extended definition settings, and I set it to extended definition. Couldn't get any sound with that setting. If I set it to standard definition, I can get sound. That ended up being true not only for the Bluray player, but for the HD DVD and Roku boxes, too. Strangely, the Xbox One S would ONLY play a UHD disc with the setting toggled to extended definition, and after downloading the Dolby-enabling app, it played the Atmos soundtrack, too. HOWEVER, the Xbox would not play anything on Disney+ unless I toggled the receiver back to standard definition via the BD/Power button dance.

Getting sound from the TV via ARC was a mess, too. The only way I could make that happen was to enable "Bravia Sync" or something like that on the TV, which made no sense at all to me. Other than the Bluray player, there's no other Sony equipment in this setup... it's a Sony TV talking to an Onkyo receiver. I had enabled the ARC on the receiver during initial setup.. and, during that process, it did initially return an error message of some kind and the TV and receiver both clicked and sounded like they reset relay or something. I ran the ARC initialization again and it seemed to work the second time. After enabling the aforementioned Bravia-sync or whatever, the ARC is working and I'm getting sound to the receiver, although I'm not convinced the apps on the TV (Netflix, Prime, and Disney+) are providing the soundtracks at the high quality formats advertised for the sources. The "Privilege 4k" app movies are, and sound great... "IMax Enhanced" or whatever is displayed on the receiver. The only time I've seen the word "Atmos" displayed, regardless of the amount of knob twirling, has been when playing an Atmos BluRay disc... no other sources, including UHD discs on the Xbox, even if the sources have the "atmos" logo advertised.

Soooo... why am I getting no sound when I have the HDMI setting toggled to "Enhanced," except when playing a UHD disc on the Xbox, but getting sound on the "standard" setting... EXCEPT for a UHD disc on the Xbox? Why do I have to have "Bravia Sync" and CEC enabled to get sound via ARC from the TV? I don't mind juggling remote controls... In my experience, CEC linking causes more confusion and problems than it's worth.

Any suggestions and experiences you'd like to relate would be great. I have checked, rechecked, and quintuple-checked the input and output formats of every device... bitstream audio, Xbox verifies that all video formats are supported by the receiver and TV, etc... I've been through every menu a zillion times, but the sheer number of hidden settings is overwhelming.

Before going further into madness, I've ordered a new, high quality 30 foot 2.0 HDMI cable to replace the one long one, and enough 2.0 cables to replace all of the short ones. I suppose it's entirely possible that a lot of this could be caused by cables that just aren't up to the task, although I'm baffled as to why so many things DO work.... great picture always, and sound that varies between none (depending upon the standard/enhanced HDMI setting on the receiver) to good but only Dolby Digital, to excellent full-fledged Atmos 5.1, DTS:Neural, or Imax formats. If the cables were at fault, you'd think the picture and sound quality would suffer or not work at all.

I'm all eyes... your thoughts? and.. thank you.
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post #318 of 331 Old 05-09-2020, 06:48 AM
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Onkyo 797 has known defects when connected to Xbox One. It is a Onkyo problem. You'd better post it in the 797 thread not 787 thread because they are not the same.

25ft HDMI cable: good luck with that one. I won't trust any HDMI cable of that length. HDMI 2.0 cables need to be certified with a certification label printed on. However Lab Certification doesn't apply to anything over 15ft.

ARC: it is always a hit and miss between different brands. ARC relies on HDMI CEC to work which in different brand has different terms. Bravia Sync is Sony's term for HDMI CEC and of course it needs to be on.
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Last edited by Foxbat121; 05-09-2020 at 06:52 AM.
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post #319 of 331 Old 05-09-2020, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxbat121 View Post
Onkyo 797 has known defects when connected to Xbox One. It is a Onkyo problem. You'd better post it in the 797 thread not 787 thread because they are not the same.

25ft HDMI cable: good luck with that one. I won't trust any HDMI cable of that length. HDMI 2.0 cables need to be certified with a certification label printed on. However Lab Certification doesn't apply to anything over 15ft.

ARC: it is always a hit and miss between different brands. ARC relies on HDMI CEC to work which in different brand has different terms. Bravia Sync is Sony's term for HDMI CEC and of course it needs to be on.
Thanks for the reply. I couldn't find the 797 thread, but maybe it was just the bleary eyes and mental frustration..I'll try again. I didn't realize that ARC depended upon CEC. CEC is used to pass along commands and control inputs, allowing devices to automatically react in desired ways to changes elsewhere in the system, while "Audio Return Channel" is just that...a means of transfering an audio signal in rhe reverse direction of an input HDMI cable. Interesting that they both need to be enabled separately for ARC to work. Not too happy about Sony deciding to name CEC something else...why and how is THAT helpful to anyone?
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post #320 of 331 Old 05-09-2020, 07:48 AM
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Sony called it one way. Samsung call it AnyNet. LG and Panasonic all have their own names. But the purpose is the same: to trick you only buy stuff from the same brand.

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post #321 of 331 Old 05-09-2020, 07:57 AM
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There might not be a 797 thread. You should start one. The problem with Xbox and 797 was discussed a while back in this thread as well as Xbox One thread. But that problem does not apply to 787 at all. Onkyo acknowledged the problem exists but not sure if they fixed it or not. Again, not a 787 issue. So we, the 787 owners, don't care about it.

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post #322 of 331 Old 05-10-2020, 08:11 AM
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I finally got around to sourcing a matching PARADIGM PS1000 sub for my rig (well, a V2 to match my existing V1). In the past, I had opted to run the 787's setup procedure with just the 1 sub and then add my non matching ENERGY sub to the mix and dial it in manually. While I had achieved acceptable results with this, I have always wanted to source out a second PARADIGM sub.

Placing the two matching subs an equal distance from the MLP, I ran the setup procedure. The difference from my old setup was noticeably better after applying some of my usual tweaks (setting all speaker cuttoffs to 80Hz and dialing up each sub by 2 notches). There is definitely a more cohesive soundstage and everything seems to more naturally blend together. The only anomaly I have noticed is that the setup has calculated the sub "distance" as being exactly double what they really are (both being exactly 7.5 feet away, ACCUEQ shows 15 feet).

I will spend a few days testing this setup out before I try it with the distance manually set to the actual 7.5 feet, but I'm wondering how others are handling two subs with this receiver. While I'm more comfortable using the internal calibration with matching subs (same info going to both), I will eventually look at something like a mini-dsp to satisfy my itch to tinker. In the interim, I would like suggestions on getting the two matching subs setup before I try to redeploy my now spare ENERGY sub as a "nearfield" option.

OPTOMA UHD51A 4K projector + Elite Screens 100" 16X9 screen
ONKYO TX-NR787 ATMOS/DTS X in a 7.2.2 configuration
PARADIGM Monitor 7s L+R, CC350 Center, Monitor 3 X4, Mini Monitor X2
PARADIGM PS1000 X 2 + ENERGY CS12 (near field)
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post #323 of 331 Old 05-12-2020, 01:04 PM
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Hello. I'm upgrading from my TX NR676 TO A NR787 because I want to have not 2 but 4 ATMOS speakers on the ceiling. The vendor is also offering me the newest NR696 but it only provides 2 ATMOS speakers. I will be using it with my Apple TV4K and a UHD player all connected to a LG C9 OLED TV.

I would like to hear movies and shows with ATMOS tracks either by being played through the ATV4K, the UHD player or the LG C9 itself. I would also like my LG C9 to do all the video processing. Basically, I would like the NR787 to correctly decode all the audio tracks played by those devices.

Can that be possible to achieve with the NR787? I've read some problems while trying to play ATMOS movies using the ATV4K.

Would you give up the possibility of having 4 ATMOS speakers instead of 2 just for getting the newest NR696 vs the "oldest" NR787?

Thank you a lot for your help!!
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post #324 of 331 Old 05-13-2020, 12:39 PM
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787 will fit your needs nicely. It handles all the audio codecs and has 9-ch amp which allows you do either 7.1.2 or 5.1.4 speaker layout. THere should be no problem with ATV4K's Atmos at all other than the fact that ATV 4K does not bitstream audio at all. You will get either Dolby MAT for atmos source or plain multi-ch PCM for everything else. That's the problem with ATV 4K. Not anything an AVR can help. ALso, 787 does not process video so you don't have to worry about it.

I assume the 696 you are looking at only offer you 7-ch amp which gives you maximum of 5.1.2 speak layout. However, there are some known compatibility issues with some 2019 Onkyo models with regard to support Dolby MAT correctly. This has been confirmed with the new 797 model and possibly 696 as well. Not a problem for the older 787.
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post #325 of 331 Old 05-13-2020, 04:06 PM
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Is anyone else using the 787 with dual subs?

If so, how are you setting it up?

OPTOMA UHD51A 4K projector + Elite Screens 100" 16X9 screen
ONKYO TX-NR787 ATMOS/DTS X in a 7.2.2 configuration
PARADIGM Monitor 7s L+R, CC350 Center, Monitor 3 X4, Mini Monitor X2
PARADIGM PS1000 X 2 + ENERGY CS12 (near field)
4 X Dayton Audio TT25-16 PUCK tactile transducers
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post #326 of 331 Old 05-13-2020, 04:28 PM
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I do. It really doesn't matter how you set it up as two sub outs are physically wired together.

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post #327 of 331 Old 05-13-2020, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxbat121 View Post
I do. It really doesn't matter how you set it up as two sub outs are physically wired together.

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Are you running the setup procedure with both subs hooked up? If so, are you finding that it lists the distance from the sub to MLP as the sum of the two distances?

OPTOMA UHD51A 4K projector + Elite Screens 100" 16X9 screen
ONKYO TX-NR787 ATMOS/DTS X in a 7.2.2 configuration
PARADIGM Monitor 7s L+R, CC350 Center, Monitor 3 X4, Mini Monitor X2
PARADIGM PS1000 X 2 + ENERGY CS12 (near field)
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post #328 of 331 Old 05-13-2020, 05:33 PM
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The location and distances of the subs are not very important. I have one sub up front and one on the back. So distance really doesn't matter in my setup. The amount of air these subs move around the room really makes not much difference if it is 1 ft or 10ft.

LFE is generally considers non directional.

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post #329 of 331 Old 05-13-2020, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxbat121 View Post
The location and distances of the subs are not very important. I have one sub up front and one on the back. So distance really doesn't matter in my setup. The amount of air these subs move around the room really makes not much difference if it is 1 ft or 10ft.

LFE is generally considers non directional.

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I would tend to disagree about distance not mattering as it speaks to the delay that the processor applies to the signal. I'm impressed with how accurate the setup procedure is at calculating the distances of all my speakers are to the MLP with the exception of the sub when 2 are connected.

At this price point, I don't expect the dual sub output to be anything more than a glorified splitter. I can ameliorate this as best as I can by using identical subs and placing them an identical distance to the MLP in as close to the same situation as possible (without being in the same place).
What I'm not sure of is whether or not the mistaken distance output is part of a complex room attenuation scheme.
Are your sub distance numbers way out of wack as well?

OPTOMA UHD51A 4K projector + Elite Screens 100" 16X9 screen
ONKYO TX-NR787 ATMOS/DTS X in a 7.2.2 configuration
PARADIGM Monitor 7s L+R, CC350 Center, Monitor 3 X4, Mini Monitor X2
PARADIGM PS1000 X 2 + ENERGY CS12 (near field)
4 X Dayton Audio TT25-16 PUCK tactile transducers

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post #330 of 331 Old 05-14-2020, 06:04 AM
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At that wave length of LFE and the fact that sound waves from subs bounces around the room (both of mine are down firing subs), I'm not surprised that precise measurement is not easy, especially if you have two subs in two different locations.
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