Official Pioneer Elite VSX-LX503 Thread - Page 22 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #631 of 684 Old 08-23-2019, 12:16 PM
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Hey guys, Wondering if someone can help. Looking at pulling the trigger on a new Pioneer AVR. Can someone tell me is the VSX-LX504 is worth it over the VSX-LX503? Thanks!
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post #632 of 684 Old 08-23-2019, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Ramzal View Post
Hey guys, Wondering if someone can help. Looking at pulling the trigger on a new Pioneer AVR. Can someone tell me is the VSX-LX504 is worth it over the VSX-LX503? Thanks!
I think the main difference is the use of MCACC Advanced in LX504. Whether that's worth an extra $450 to you - I think only you can decide.

If you have around $1K to spend, there are plenty of other good options out there aside from LX504, like Denon X3600H, for example.

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post #633 of 684 Old 08-23-2019, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete7874 View Post
I think the main difference is the use of MCACC Advanced in LX504. Whether that's worth an extra $450 to you - I think only you can decide.

If you have around $1K to spend, there are plenty of other good options out there aside from LX504, like Denon X3600H, for example.

Thanks so much! What exactly is MCACC advanced? is "IMAX ENHANCED" worth?
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post #634 of 684 Old 08-23-2019, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Ramzal View Post
What exactly is MCACC advanced?
https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Home/MCACC

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...cc-thread.html


MCACC aside, the 504 is still crippled by a single crossover setting. Whether that's important or not depends on your particular setup and the specific speakers you use.

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post #635 of 684 Old 08-24-2019, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramzal View Post
Hey guys, Wondering if someone can help. Looking at pulling the trigger on a new Pioneer AVR. Can someone tell me is the VSX-LX504 is worth it over the VSX-LX503? Thanks!
Not sure what your set-up is or how often you buy an AVR, but it's a challenging time to buy one. Next year, many AVRs will be future-proofed with HDMI 2.1 chips. Until that happens, my approach was to buy the least expensive AVR that does what I need. There are some that have aspects of HDMI 2.1, but not the full spectrum.

I doubt the enhanced MCACC or IMAX capabilities are worth almost double the price for the 504.
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post #636 of 684 Old 08-24-2019, 02:22 PM
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it's a challenging time to buy one. Next year, many AVRs will be future-proofed with HDMI 2.1 chips. Until that happens, my approach was to buy the least expensive AVR that does what I need.
+1
I ended up grabbing a refurbished Denon S740H to hold me over.

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post #637 of 684 Old 08-25-2019, 05:58 AM
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Has anyone else had issues with the LX503 not playing a lot MKV rips? I am getting really frustrated with this receiver. I had the VSX-1121 which worked perfectly with all of these rips I have. They also play fine on my PC. But the LX503 won't play them. The latest is a DTS, 48.0 kHz, 24bit, 6 ch DTS.

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post #638 of 684 Old 08-27-2019, 08:13 AM
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I just set up my VSX-LX503 and have a few questions, if someone could help?

My setup:

Vizio 65Q
JBL front Studio 280's
JBL Studio 235c center
JBL Studio 230 side surrounds
Monoprice Monolith 10" sub (ported)
Sonance MAGR6R 6.5" in ceiling speakers (4)
LG UBK90 Blu Ray


1. In configuration should I set the 4 ceiling speakers as Dolby or height? The picture on the setup screen shows the Dolby setup as upfiring speakers, not in ceiling (like the height setting does).

2. When playing a Dolby Atmos source, Atmos is not one of the options on the receiver, only Dolby Surround, Drama, Action, etc. According to the manual, it should specifically say "Dolby Atmos"

3. Should I set the speakers all to small? I noticed if the fronts are set to small, all of the other speakers options (including double bass) greys out.

4. The LG player just started showing a pink screen when trying to play a disk (the menu shows fine and audio plays). I tried different inputs and cables and no difference. I might just take the player back to Costco tonight after I try it hooked straight to the TV.

Thanks for any help!

*Edited to include my sub!

Last edited by Xenuprime; 08-27-2019 at 08:46 AM.
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post #639 of 684 Old 08-27-2019, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenuprime View Post
I just set up my VSX-LX503 and have a few questions, if someone could help?



My setup:



Vizio 65Q

JBL front Studio 280's

JBL Studio 235c center

JBL Studio 230 side surrounds

Monoprice Monolith 10" sub (ported)

Sonance MAGR6R 6.5" in ceiling speakers (4)

LG UBK90 Blu Ray





1. In configuration should I set the 4 ceiling speakers as Dolby or height? The picture on the setup screen shows the Dolby setup as upfiring speakers, not in ceiling (like the height setting does).



2. When playing a Dolby Atmos source, Atmos is not one of the options on the receiver, only Dolby Surround, Drama, Action, etc. According to the manual, it should specifically say "Dolby Atmos"



3. Should I set the speakers all to small? I noticed if the fronts are set to small, all of the other speakers options (including double bass) greys out.



4. The LG player just started showing a pink screen when trying to play a disk (the menu shows fine and audio plays). I tried different inputs and cables and no difference. I might just take the player back to Costco tonight after I try it hooked straight to the TV.



Thanks for any help!



*Edited to include my sub!
1. Height. You explain it yourself.
2. Are u trying cycling through Direct button?
3. I preffer to set the big boys as Large and activate the Double Bass.
4. No idea.
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post #640 of 684 Old 08-28-2019, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by asabrag View Post
1. Height. You explain it yourself.
2. Are u trying cycling through Direct button?
3. I preffer to set the big boys as Large and activate the Double Bass.
4. No idea.
1. Thank you! I saw someone early in this thread say that when set at height the AVR won't send the correct Dolby signals to the speakers, then later in the thread someone said they prefer set as height because then the AVR sends a better range to teh speakers.

2. I left the Auto/Direct button set to auto and am cycling through the Surr button. Last night I tried another disk (Spider-Man: Homecoming) and Atmos came on. I tried the other movie again (Ready Player One) and like magic it is now showing Atmos. It's like the Fonz came over and hit it, lol

3. I tried a few combinations last night and honestly, the only setting that made a difference was double bass and going from 120 to 80 on the crossover.

4. I guess the Fonz hit this too because it started working. It' s from Costco, so I'm not worried. I might take it back and pick up a Sony 800m2.


New question: Is there a way to get the AVR to test an individual speaker? Or maybe a test disk to do that? The guys who ran the wires in the wall didn't do a great job with labeling and I had to guess on some left/right ones.



I have a LOT to learn, but it's been fun. I haven't even started on the Monolith sub settings.
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post #641 of 684 Old 08-28-2019, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenuprime View Post
1. Thank you! I saw someone early in this thread say that when set at height the AVR won't send the correct Dolby signals to the speakers, then later in the thread someone said they prefer set as height because then the AVR sends a better range to teh speakers.



2. I left the Auto/Direct button set to auto and am cycling through the Surr button. Last night I tried another disk (Spider-Man: Homecoming) and Atmos came on. I tried the other movie again (Ready Player One) and like magic it is now showing Atmos. It's like the Fonz came over and hit it, lol



3. I tried a few combinations last night and honestly, the only setting that made a difference was double bass and going from 120 to 80 on the crossover.



4. I guess the Fonz hit this too because it started working. It' s from Costco, so I'm not worried. I might take it back and pick up a Sony 800m2.





New question: Is there a way to get the AVR to test an individual speaker? Or maybe a test disk to do that? The guys who ran the wires in the wall didn't do a great job with labeling and I had to guess on some left/right ones.







I have a LOT to learn, but it's been fun. I haven't even started on the Monolith sub settings.
Did you run the MCCA room correction? That should send sounds cyclinh through every single speaker.
After initial set up you can go again to Speakers, Levels, and again sound will be sent to every speaker..
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post #642 of 684 Old 08-28-2019, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by asabrag View Post
Did you run the MCCA room correction? That should send sounds cyclinh through every single speaker.
After initial set up you can go again to Speakers, Levels, and again sound will be sent to every speaker..
I ran the single listening position MCCA and plan to run it again (fully this time) this weekend. I think it might indicate on screen which speaker it is supposed to be playing.

I'll check out that level settings too, thanks!
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post #643 of 684 Old 08-30-2019, 08:17 AM
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Quick question for everyone.
I think I already know the answer to this question, but I thought I would ask for "confirmation"
I have my LX503 connected to my set of Infinity Beta speakers, and at the moment that means Beta 50 Floorstander's as front's, C360 as center, and a pair of ES250's in the rear, connected as 2 separate monopole speakers for 7.1.0, and it work's great. I have an Emotiva XPA-5 Gen1 amplifier, and it's currently powering the Front Left, Right, and Center speakers. 2 channels are unused at the moment.

I would like to add a set of 4 Micca M-8C speakers for Atmos in my yet to be finished theater room, and the manual states that it expects Surround Back to be powered with an amplifier, but if I assign the 2 Surround Back channels to my XPA-5 with my current ES250's, I will have half of each speaker powered by the amp, and the other half powered by the receiver. This doesn't seem ideal to me. Is there any way to "reassign" the receiver's internal amplifier channels from the unused front channels to the surround back?

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post #644 of 684 Old 08-30-2019, 08:30 AM
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Klipsch RP-6000F / Pioneer Elite VSX-LX503 Blown Horns

Hi everyone,

I have been a lurker here for a few years but just decided to create an account to share my experience and ask for possible advice. Last year I picked up two RP-6000F speakers from klipsch, because they made a mistake on my initial order they upgraded me to these bad boys for free. So I walked away grabbing the pair for about $320, in my excitement the first thing I did was try to find an amplifier capable of driving them. Frys had a sale going on an I was able to pickup a Pioneer Elite VSX-LX503 for another $425. This was around March of 2018, and everything was perfect until recently.

About four months ago I bi-amped the speakers to bypass the internal crossovers and noticed a big improvement, added a 120sw subwoofer for a 2.1 setup. I kept the configuration in place and have been enjoying my weekends. Two days ago I was listening to Perez Prada at -1.5 Db and had no problem identifying all the tones, and while I was pushing the speakers the pitch was perfect and there was no distortion. If you have never heard the song I suggest you give it a listen!

That same evening about 6 hours later, I put on Chopin nocturne’s and realized all the high frequencies were missing from the music. It was a pretty shocking moment!

Since then I have confirmed that both horns are not working on the speakers, drivers work fine. Tested different speakers and a different receiver. At this point I’m pretty sure the diaphragms on both horns are busted, I have replacements coming tomorrow and will be attempting to reconstruct the horns.

I’m starting to think that what may have caused this problem is speaker impedance, while the receiver supports 8ohm the setting doesn’t exist as an option. And I had it set to 6ohm, would this mean that I had double the wattage going to the high frequency binding posts on the rear of the speaker?

Now I don’t proclaim to know anything I’m talking about, my father was a HiFi guy and had Mcintosh everything and I grew up experiencing what most people never get a chance to experience- feeling music instead of listening to it. When my pops passed away a few years ago it brought back a lot of those memories from childhood. Strangely enough audio has become a huge passion for me in the last year and a half, however there is still very much to learn.

I guess the point being of this post other than to introduce myself, is some clarification where I went wrong.

Thanks!!!!!
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post #645 of 684 Old 08-30-2019, 08:33 AM
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Perez Prado - Guaglione

Is the song, guess I can’t edit my original post 😆
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post #646 of 684 Old 08-30-2019, 11:13 AM
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You say you were listening at -1.5dB, was this -1.5 on the Master Volume (MV)? Did you calibrate the speakers to Reference (0MV = 105dB peak)? If you just ran MCACC, did you verify the speakers were outputting 75dB at 0MV with the internal test tones?

If the speaker levels were calibrated correctly, -1.5dB is extremely loud and could very well fry some tweeters if that level is maintained for extended periods of time.

And just an FYI, passive bi-amping (which is what you are doing, unless you opened up the speakers and physically bypassed the internal crossovers and then added external crossovers) results in no benefit to the listener. It only benefits speaker wire manufacturers.
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Last edited by Alan P; 08-30-2019 at 11:32 AM.
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post #647 of 684 Old 08-30-2019, 11:35 AM
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@zryder I do not think you can re-assign. This is from another member here back in May...hope it helps with your config!

My setup is similar except I am using 7 channels of external amps. I have an Emotiva XPA-3 for my L/C/R and an Emotiva UPA-500 for my LS/RS/BLS/BRS both connected to the pre-outs on the LX503. I then have 4 Polk Audio MC60’s connected directly to the Height 1 and Height 2 speaker connections on the LX503. Running MCACC, the AVR recognizes 11 independent channels.

There are also pre-outs for Height 2 speakers (Page 10 Item 19). I’m not sure why the manual doesn’t show a diagram for leaving your back surrounds connected to your AVR and connecting the second height speakers to the external amp but it appears that is a possibility as well. (I just have not confirmed this. Page 57 shows connecting an amp the Height 2 pre-outs)
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post #648 of 684 Old 08-30-2019, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
You say you were listening at -1.5dB, was this -1.5 on the Master Volume (MV)? Did you calibrate the speakers to Reference (0MV = 105dB peak)? If you just ran MCACC, did you verify the speakers were outputting 75dB at 0MV with the internal test tones?

If the speaker levels were calibrated correctly, -1.5dB is extremely loud and could very well fry some tweeters if that level is maintained for extended periods of time.

And just an FYI, passive bi-amping (which is what you are doing, unless you opened up the speakers and physically bypassed the internal crossovers and then added external crossovers) results in no benefit to the listener. It only benefits speaker wire manufacturers.
Hi Alan,

I appreciate the feedback! I will try to answer your questions as best I can. My setup is actually pretty non-standard since I have the towers in the rear part of a 20ft garage, and typically listen to them outside by just rolling up the garage door. I have a rural property in the desert on a few acres, and have a nice lounge area directly outside of the garage for stargazing - at nearly 35ft away I could hear the drivers AND the horns working their magic.

At the time of getting the Pioneer I setup everything using the MCACC with the microphone. I had all doors, windows, and ac turned off during the initial calibration. I then experimented with tuning levels, treble, bass, etc, crossover to get everything comparable to the Denon AVR-S504bt I was previously using. I did NOT calibrate the speakers to 0MV = 105dB peak as I was under the impression this was being done by the MCACC, I did verify the test tones working properly though. MCACC to be honest is confusing, and many menu options you would expect on the pioneer appear to be missing from the interfaces...

I typically listened to the volume between 6.5 and 3.5 for hours at a time, so I’m assuming that it was using the default values on the receiver. Maybe I misled myself into thinking it appeared to be the optimal loudness of the horns without damaging them.

On the Bi-amping, I have had mixed results trying to understand passive vs active capability of the speaker with how the internal crossover works. Per klipsch’s documentation on the RP-600M it showed specifically the separation on the binding posts, the top for horn and bottom for the driver. It mentioned that using bi-amping would bypass the internal crossover and use the crossover setting on the external amp or receiver. I was originally Bi-wiring with the Denon but because the pioneer supported bi-amping I decided to go that route instead.

I did notice a huge improvement removing the binding post and bi-amping - especially with the horns. They seemed muted before when it was bi-wired, and prior to that still had the bridges attached. I’m not in disagreement and I understand the internal crossover is designed to limit and give the best overall performance to the speakers. Perhaps it was my imagination but there appeared to be a big jump in the horns fidelity. If I was actively bi-amping the speakers, and the internal network of the klipsch prevented that additional wattage from affecting the horns - was the power looped back to the receiver?

Thanks!
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post #649 of 684 Old 09-04-2019, 01:36 PM
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Sorry for the late reply, I was on vacation over the long weekend.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Magicmissile View Post
Hi Alan,

I appreciate the feedback! I will try to answer your questions as best I can. My setup is actually pretty non-standard since I have the towers in the rear part of a 20ft garage, and typically listen to them outside by just rolling up the garage door. I have a rural property in the desert on a few acres, and have a nice lounge area directly outside of the garage for stargazing - at nearly 35ft away I could hear the drivers AND the horns working their magic.
Well, this explains why are listening at -1.5MV.

35 feet is a very long distance to be away from your speakers. As you can see from this SPL calculator, you would need ~250 watts to each speaker to achieve -1.5dB below Reference (103.5dB). Your AVR (according to Pioneer, and most likely inflated specs) is capable of only 230 w/ch (1 ch Driven). Pushing the MV up as high as you are, you are causing distortion and/or clipping, both of which can blow a driver in short order.

You need to move the speakers closer to where you listen, or limit the MV to around -10MV to be safe.



Quote:
At the time of getting the Pioneer I setup everything using the MCACC with the microphone. I had all doors, windows, and ac turned off during the initial calibration. I then experimented with tuning levels, treble, bass, etc, crossover to get everything comparable to the Denon AVR-S504bt I was previously using. I did NOT calibrate the speakers to 0MV = 105dB peak as I was under the impression this was being done by the MCACC, I did verify the test tones working properly though. MCACC to be honest is confusing, and many menu options you would expect on the pioneer appear to be missing from the interfaces...
In theory, MCACC will calibrate you to Reference...in practice, it is always smart to verify the speaker levels afterwards with an SPL meter.


Quote:
I typically listened to the volume between 6.5 and 3.5 for hours at a time, so I’m assuming that it was using the default values on the receiver. Maybe I misled myself into thinking it appeared to be the optimal loudness of the horns without damaging them.
Did you mean -6.5MV to -3.5MV? If you are actually creeping into the positive range, you really need to back it off.

Your AVR has no way of knowing the actual capabilities of your speakers and the calibration process will not make you immune to damaging your speakers.


Quote:
On the Bi-amping, I have had mixed results trying to understand passive vs active capability of the speaker with how the internal crossover works. Per klipsch’s documentation on the RP-600M it showed specifically the separation on the binding posts, the top for horn and bottom for the driver. It mentioned that using bi-amping would bypass the internal crossover and use the crossover setting on the external amp or receiver. I was originally Bi-wiring with the Denon but because the pioneer supported bi-amping I decided to go that route instead.
I am fairly certain that removing the post jumpers on your speakers will not bypass the internal crossover, at least I can't find any reference to that on the internet. The RP-600M manual does not mention it either.

Active bi-amping is achieved by removing the speaker's internal crossover and adding external crossovers between the amp and the individual drivers. This is pretty advanced stuff and is mostly relegated to DIY and pro-type speakers.


Quote:
I did notice a huge improvement removing the binding post and bi-amping - especially with the horns. They seemed muted before when it was bi-wired, and prior to that still had the bridges attached. I’m not in disagreement and I understand the internal crossover is designed to limit and give the best overall performance to the speakers. Perhaps it was my imagination but there appeared to be a big jump in the horns fidelity. If I was actively bi-amping the speakers, and the internal network of the klipsch prevented that additional wattage from affecting the horns - was the power looped back to the receiver?
The human brain will always interpret "louder" as "better".

After bi-amping, you were sending more power to both drivers which would result in an increase in SPL (louder).


If you want a rockin' garage system, you might want to take a look at much larger speakers with a higher sensitivity rating (JBL, DIY Sound Group, etc.) and adding a separate amplifier....or, just sit closer to the speakers you have.

Hope this helps!
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post #650 of 684 Old 09-13-2019, 06:52 PM
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No HDMI Video Output From VSX-LX503

Greetings! From one day to the next, I lost HDMI video output on my 4 mo old 503. Audio worked great. I tried a soft reset with no luck. I then did a factory reset, and now it tells me to do the Initial Setup from my TV screen, but as there is no video output, I can do nothing.

Anyone experienced this or have any suggestions? Thanks!
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post #651 of 684 Old 09-17-2019, 04:24 PM
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Hi All,

So my Integra DHC-40.1 Pre/Pro just bit the dust. Was running a 7.2 setup with an Emotiva UPA-7. I pulled the trigger on this unit as the price was too good and I'm behind the times with my 1080p Panny plasma and Oppo 83 to even consider HDMI 2.1. I had a VSX-82 TXS before going separates and always loved it.

A couple questions...

Is there a decent upmix surround mode if I add 2 front height channels without having a device that can even pass Atmos? Again I'm behind the times with all my gear and just want to experiment a little. Thinking a 7.2.2 system. Anyone running similar? I'm guessing I'll get the upgrade bug and start upgrading everything now.

Can I use the pre outs for Front, Center, Surround, Surround Back, and just wire the height channels to the Pioneer? The manual says to wire the pre outs to an external amp for height but that doesn't make sense to me as I figure it will be the least used channels.

One more thing. I'm going to miss Dolby Pro Logic IIx for Music. Bummed that it's been phased out. Any other decent multi channel music surround modes that anyone uses on this?

Thanks in advance.
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post #652 of 684 Old 09-18-2019, 05:46 AM
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Has anyone else had issues with the LX503 not playing a lot MKV rips? I am getting really frustrated with this receiver. I had the VSX-1121 which worked perfectly with all of these rips I have. They also play fine on my PC. But the LX503 won't play them. The latest is a DTS, 48.0 kHz, 24bit, 6 ch DTS.
I'm using Serviio to stream rips from my computer and the Pioneer 503 does not like a lot. BUT I have a Sony X800 UBR player that plays most things
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post #653 of 684 Old 09-18-2019, 05:47 AM
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I just picked up this receiver because I was having issues with HDR and my Denon. I have an Epson 5050, Nvidia Shield, and a 4k Xfinity box. The problem I was having, is when I would play HDR content, I'd get sound right away, but no video for 10 seconds. After 10 seconds, I'd get both audio and video. This happened on both the Shield, and the Xfinity box. If I ran the Shield or Xfinity box directly to the Epson, I'd get immediate audio and video. After hooking up the Pioneer, I thought I had it solved, because I get audio and video immediately. Unfortunately, after about 3 or 4 seconds, the video dropped out for about 5 seconds. So the Pioneer is kind of better, in that I only lose video for 5 seconds, as opposed to 10 seconds with the Denon. Does anyone know of any settings on the Pioneer that might eliminate the issue permanently?

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post #654 of 684 Old 09-18-2019, 06:50 AM
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I just picked up this receiver because I was having issues with HDR and my Denon. I have an Epson 5050, Nvidia Shield, and a 4k Xfinity box. The problem I was having, is when I would play HDR content, I'd get sound right away, but no video for 10 seconds. After 10 seconds, I'd get both audio and video. This happened on both the Shield, and the Xfinity box. If I ran the Shield or Xfinity box directly to the Epson, I'd get immediate audio and video. After hooking up the Pioneer, I thought I had it solved, because I get audio and video immediately. Unfortunately, after about 3 or 4 seconds, the video dropped out for about 5 seconds. So the Pioneer is kind of better, in that I only lose video for 5 seconds, as opposed to 10 seconds with the Denon. Does anyone know of any settings on the Pioneer that might eliminate the issue permanently?
I have a 4K Xfinity box and it works flawlessly with my Pioneer VSX-LX503. However, I had the exact same problem you describe with my Sony UBP-X800m2 4K bluray player. Sometimes I would get no video at all, other times it would work fine. After a variety of attempts to fix the issue with settings and even adding a Dr. HDMI 4K to my system, I have tried new HDMI cables from monoprice and it seems to be working.
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post #655 of 684 Old 09-18-2019, 07:31 AM
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I have a 4K Xfinity box and it works flawlessly with my Pioneer VSX-LX503. However, I had the exact same problem you describe with my Sony UBP-X800m2 4K bluray player. Sometimes I would get no video at all, other times it would work fine. After a variety of attempts to fix the issue with settings and even adding a Dr. HDMI 4K to my system, I have tried new HDMI cables from monoprice and it seems to be working.
I have all Monoprice Premium Certified HDMI cables.

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post #656 of 684 Old 09-19-2019, 08:15 AM
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I have all Monoprice Premium Certified HDMI cables.
Do you have an extra you can swap out for the connection between the Pioneer and the Epson? I've had weird occurrences where a cable won't work for a particular component but is otherwise fine (tends to happen most often with Sony products )

Other than that, do you have CEC turned on in the Pioneer? If you don't need it, you might try turning it off and seeing if that helps.

I have definitely seen some odd video handshaking issues between the Pioneer and my LG OLED. Strangely, the Xfinity 4K box is the one component that always works.
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post #657 of 684 Old 09-19-2019, 08:18 AM
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Do you have an extra you can swap out for the connection between the Pioneer and the Epson? I've had weird occurrences where a cable won't work for a particular component but is otherwise fine (tends to happen most often with Sony products )



Other than that, do you have CEC turned on in the Pioneer? If you don't need it, you might try turning it off and seeing if that helps.



I have definitely seen some odd video handshaking issues between the Pioneer and my LG OLED. Strangely, the Xfinity 4K box is the one component that always works.
I fixed the problem by connecting my Shield to the Blu-ray input, which is right next to the HDMI out. Everything works great now. Thanks for the suggestion though.

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post #658 of 684 Old 09-19-2019, 12:22 PM
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I fixed the problem by connecting my Shield to the Blu-ray input, which is right next to the HDMI out. Everything works great now. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Glad you found a solution. Years ago that same fix worked for me with a Denon receiver that was having trouble with a PS3 (Game 2 worked but Game 1 was problematic). I appreciate the reminder because playing around with HDMI inputs might fix some of my intermittent problems with the Pioneer.
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post #659 of 684 Old 09-19-2019, 12:29 PM
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Glad you found a solution. Years ago that same fix worked for me with a Denon receiver that was having trouble with a PS3 (Game 2 worked but Game 1 was problematic). I appreciate the reminder because playing around with HDMI inputs might fix some of my intermittent problems with the Pioneer.
I wish my issue would be resolved so easily. I tried several HDMI ports and with the receiver in 'Enhanced mode' I get too many black screens watching 4k content. I tried several different brands of certified cables being as short as 3' and nothing will resolve the problem.

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post #660 of 684 Old 09-19-2019, 01:17 PM
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I wish my issue would be resolved so easily. I tried several HDMI ports and with the receiver in 'Enhanced mode' I get too many black screens watching 4k content. I tried several different brands of certified cables being as short as 3' and nothing will resolve the problem.
What is your source for playing 4k content?

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