The "OFFICIAL" Yamaha RX-A880 / RX-A780 / RX-A680 Aventage AVR Owners' Thread - Page 5 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #121 of 172 Old 02-26-2019, 10:54 AM
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Don’t worry, people who are subscribed to a topic will check in regularly for new information, and see updated posts. Future readers will see the updated/revised post as they read through.

Bear in mind that some may have email notification of posts, so repeated, frequent replies multiply the e-mails. E.g. “Joe posted to the topic,” “Joe posted to the topic,” “Joe posted to the topic,” ad nauseam.

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post #122 of 172 Old 02-26-2019, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
Don’t worry, people who are subscribed to a topic will check in regularly for new information, and see updated posts. Future readers will see the updated/revised post as they read through. Bear in mind that some may have email notification of posts, so repeated, frequent replies multiply the e-mails. E.g. “Joe posted to the topic,” “Joe posted to the topic,” “Joe posted to the topic,” ad nauseam.

I have always considered it good posting etiquette to only edit a post for spelling and grammar. Sometimes a poster edits a post for corrections after they are pointed out by another poster but that usually includes a post indicating the edit for the correction. Updates with the issue at hand are common. There are a few threads that have the first post edited but that is usually stated in the beginning as a practice for the thread.


I have way too many subscriptions to use email notifications, that would overwhelm my inbox and wouldn't help me with the way I use AVS . The way I use this site is to check my subscriptions for threads with new posts and then click on the icon to take me to the first unread post. There is no way I am going to scan 100s if not 1000s of posts looking for post edits with new information. I appreciate posters who update a thread indicating the status of their resolved problems. Too many posters just walk away leaving us to wonder.


I agree with you that future readers will catch the edits.

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post #123 of 172 Old 03-10-2019, 03:26 PM
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Greetings! I'm about to buy either a V685 or an A780, but I am unable to figure out the exact differences, besides the 5th foot, metal front and slightly different connections in the back. I read that the V685 can not activate YPAO volume while any listening room simulations are running (DSP simulating virtual theaters, cinemas etc) because that is limited to the Aventage line. Is the A780 able to activate YPAO volume while the 3D DSP sim is running, or does that start with the 4 digit Aventages?


And does anyone know anything about the used headphone amplifiers (or do they use the main amplifier for that)? Also any other differences, like maybe the power supply, or any other parts, that may affect life expectancy? Thanks!
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post #124 of 172 Old 03-13-2019, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oliver H. View Post
Greetings! I'm about to buy either a V685 or an A780, but I am unable to figure out the exact differences, besides the 5th foot, metal front and slightly different connections in the back. I read that the V685 can not activate YPAO volume while any listening room simulations are running (DSP simulating virtual theaters, cinemas etc) because that is limited to the Aventage line. Is the A780 able to activate YPAO volume while the 3D DSP sim is running, or does that start with the 4 digit Aventages?


And does anyone know anything about the used headphone amplifiers (or do they use the main amplifier for that)? Also any other differences, like maybe the power supply, or any other parts, that may affect life expectancy? Thanks!
The same limitation noted on p. 50 (V685 Owner's manual), is also noted on p. 54 (A780 Owner's manual) and p. 60 (A1080 Owner's manual).

Quote:
When the Dolby Atmos decoder is working, virtual surround processing (such as Virtual CINEMA FRONT) does not work.


Also note, the "A" models feature a 3 year warranty vs. only 2 with the "V" series.
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post #125 of 172 Old 03-13-2019, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
The same limitation noted on p. 50 (V685 Owner's manual), is also noted on p. 54 (A780 Owner's manual) and p. 60 (A1080 Owner's manual).



Also note, the "A" models feature a 3 year warranty vs. only 2 with the "V" series.

That seems to be refering to virtual surround processing while Atmos / DS:X and is being decoded. I meant using YPAO volume, while running Cinema DSP though.
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post #126 of 172 Old 03-22-2019, 09:35 AM
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Hi, I'm wondering if I can get a little assistance. I just got a home theater setup on a LG Oled 65C8PUA with a Yamaha rx-a780 receiver and a 5.1.2 dolby atmos home theater speaker package. I had a home theater professsional install it. He did a fantastic job so if anyone needs an install in the Boston area let me know because he was really good. He ran what is I believe a toslink to my tv and a hdmi cable from my tv's hdmi to my receiver. The tv's sound was setup externally through optical. He also plugged my xbox one x into my receiver. I bought the 5.1.2 mostly for the dolby atmos. However when I run it on my xboxonex it says ATMOS/PCM on the receiver. When I run the Dolby Access LG smart hub app the receivers panel says DD or Dolby Digital.
Also it seems on Comcast cable tv my audio is breaking up every now and then. I'm wondering if any of you guys have faced this issue and would know how to troubleshoot this. Thanks!

Kim
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post #127 of 172 Old 03-22-2019, 09:57 AM
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The HDMI-ARC or S/PDIF audio from the TV will be limited to 5.1.x compressed or 2.0 uncompressed; typically Dolby Digital or Dolby Digital Plus. The audio from your Xbox is dependent upon the audio options you select on the Xbox.

What the AVR is showing you is not an problem. Simply displaying the audio format received. You can cycle this with the INFO button on the remote or front panel (depends upon the model).

Read your Yamaha OM for more information.

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A: Yamaha RX-V775; Chromecast Audio; iPod Classic, Touch. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550. Apple TV 4gen. Chromecast 1gen, Samsung UN40ES6150.
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post #128 of 172 Old 03-22-2019, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
The HDMI-ARC or S/PDIF audio from the TV will be limited to 5.1.x compressed or 2.0 uncompressed; typically Dolby Digital or Dolby Digital Plus. The audio from your Xbox is dependent upon the audio options you select on the Xbox.

What the AVR is showing you is not an problem. Simply displaying the audio format received. You can cycle this with the INFO button on the remote or front panel (depends upon the model).

Read your Yamaha OM for more information.
Hi,
Yes. I understand that what it is displaying is not anything wrong with the receiver, but I think perhaps the way it is setup. I'm thinking I have to use the HDMI Arc port strictly, and take out the toslink, but is there a way to get non lossy Dolby Atmos. It would be through HDMI but if its not gained with an HDMI Arc port can it be gained in a different HDMI port?

Kim
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post #129 of 172 Old 03-22-2019, 01:03 PM
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(forum tip: click the LINKS in my response for further reading)

Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Hi,
Yes. I understand that what it is displaying is not anything wrong with the receiver, but I think perhaps the way it is setup. I'm thinking I have to use the HDMI Arc port strictly, and take out the toslink, but is there a way to get non lossy Dolby Atmos. It would be through HDMI but if its not gained with an HDMI Arc port can it be gained in a different HDMI port?
Nope, ARC and S/PDIF protocols are limited to compressed multichannel, or uncompressed PCM, unless and until you have equipment supporting eARC. (Some Aventage models incl. the 780 will get eARC support via firmware at a later date TBD.)

Choosing between S/PDIF and HDMI-ARC, with a 5.1.2 setup, I'd favor the HDMI-ARC (for potential Atmos object data in Dolby Digital Plus streams) with the caveat that some people experience manufacturer conflicts with ARC and HDMI-CEC. There's no "other HDMI port" to use, ARC is ARC, and typically only operated on the HDMI OUT of the AVR to a suitably marked HDMI IN on the display device. (ARC means "audio return channel," literally a backwards way of carrying display device audio back to the AVR.)

Here's some further reading for you:
The only way to get non-lossy multichannel (i.e. Dolby TrueHD or DTS HD MA) is via HDMI from a suitable device e.g. Blu-ray Disc player, Apple TV, et al.

Check if your new TV does or will support eARC. Owners in that other thread you posted to will probably know.

"Sell crazy some place else -- we're all stocked up here."
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A: Yamaha RX-V775; Chromecast Audio; iPod Classic, Touch. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550. Apple TV 4gen. Chromecast 1gen, Samsung UN40ES6150.
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post #130 of 172 Old 03-23-2019, 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
Nope, ARC and S/PDIF protocols are limited to compressed multichannel, or uncompressed PCM, unless and until you have equipment supporting eARC. (Some Aventage models incl. the 780 will get eARC support via firmware at a later date TBD.)

Choosing between S/PDIF and HDMI-ARC, with a 5.1.2 setup, I'd favor the HDMI-ARC (for potential Atmos object data in Dolby Digital Plus streams) with the caveat that some people experience manufacturer conflicts with ARC and HDMI-CEC. There's no "other HDMI port" to use, ARC is ARC, and typically only operated on the HDMI OUT of the AVR to a suitably marked HDMI IN on the display device. (ARC means "audio return channel," literally a backwards way of carrying display device audio back to the AVR.)

Here's some further reading for you:
The only way to get non-lossy multichannel (i.e. Dolby TrueHD or DTS HD MA) is via HDMI from a suitable device e.g. Blu-ray Disc player, Apple TV, et al.

Check if your new TV does or will support eARC. Owners in that other thread you posted to will probably know.
Thanks for the long response and the links ChromeJob! I unplugged the toslink from the receiver and figured out how to get the Atmos working but it's compressed since I don't have eArc. The tv is a 2018 model. I thought it is impossible to get unlossy atmos sound without an eArc but if I can get Dolby TrueHD via Blu Ray can I get unlossy Atmos via BluRay? If not I do hope the higher end LG tvs get a firmware update to eArc since I read that Sony is talking about it.

This is the article I read about dolby truehd that mentions two ways it can be converted through BluRay.

https://www.lifewire.com/dolby-truehd-4110228

Kim
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post #131 of 172 Old 03-23-2019, 04:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Thanks for the long response and the links ChromeJob! I unplugged the toslink from the receiver and figured out how to get the Atmos working but it's compressed since I don't have eArc. The tv is a 2018 model. I thought it is impossible to get unlossy atmos sound without an eArc but if I can get Dolby TrueHD via Blu Ray can I get unlossy Atmos via BluRay? If not I do hope the higher end LG tvs get a firmware update to eArc since I read that Sony is talking about it.

This is the article I read about dolby truehd that mentions two ways it can be converted through BluRay.

https://www.lifewire.com/dolby-truehd-4110228
Lossless HD audio (eg. Dolby TrueHD/Atmos) can be passed over HDMI (but not optical), currently only from a 3rd party device (eg. Blu Ray, game box) connected to the AVR and eventually via eARC when both the TV and AVR are eARC capable (via either firmware update or out of the box).

Lossy audio (ie. DD+/Atmos which Netflix uses) does not require eARC but rather can be passed via current ARC from the TV to the AVR.

An important note regarding that article you linked to … Atmos audio must be "bitstreamed" to the AVR in order for the Atmos decoder to decode the Atmos metadata (ie. cannot use multi analog cables as is possible with non-Atmos Dolby TrueHD), so HDMI is the only cable connection type that will work with Atmos audio.
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Last edited by jdsmoothie; 03-23-2019 at 04:39 AM.
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post #132 of 172 Old 03-23-2019, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Thanks for the long response and the links ChromeJob! I unplugged the toslink from the receiver and figured out how to get the Atmos working but it's compressed since I don't have eArc. The tv is a 2018 model. I thought it is impossible to get unlossy atmos sound without an eArc but if I can get Dolby TrueHD via Blu Ray can I get unlossy Atmos via BluRay? If not I do hope the higher end LG tvs get a firmware update to eArc since I read that Sony is talking about it.

This is the article I read about dolby truehd that mentions two ways it can be converted through BluRay.

https://www.lifewire.com/dolby-truehd-4110228
I'm wondering if any of you guys have problem getting audio when trying to use the smart tv. I am using a logitech controller and when I choose the 'Watch Smart TV' function the cable tv starts along with the programs audio. When I choose a smart home app the cable tv audio remains and the smart home app audio does not come on. I'd like to use this instead of a roku since LG allows playback of Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos in all of the content that supports it, unlike Roku and Amazon Fire Stick.
I'm wondering if you guys have experienced this or know what to do. This is what my 'Watch Smart TV' activity looks like.


1) LG TV Power On
2) Yamaha AV Receiver Power On
3) LG TV Input Smart TV
4) Yamaha AV Receiver HDMI Out

Yamaha Receiver Setup on RX-A780.

1) HDMI Out 1 - HDMI 2 (ARC) from TV to Yamaha Receiver HDMI Out 1
2) HDMI Out 2 - HDMI output from Xfinity box to Yamaha Receiver HDMI Out 2
3) HDMI Out 3 - HDMI output from Xbox One X to Yamaha Receiver HDMI Out 3

Kim
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post #133 of 172 Old 03-23-2019, 11:32 AM
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It’s possible that the cable audio continues in the “Smart Hub” until you start launch a specific app; that's how my Samsung behaves.

…Reading in your devices’ owners manuals will really help. Go do that. For further help on your LG TV, suggest you post to the LG TV owners' thread that I see you're already participating in.

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A: Yamaha RX-V775; Chromecast Audio; iPod Classic, Touch. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550. Apple TV 4gen. Chromecast 1gen, Samsung UN40ES6150.

Last edited by ChromeJob; 03-23-2019 at 12:02 PM.
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post #134 of 172 Old 03-23-2019, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I'm wondering if any of you guys have problem getting audio when trying to use the smart tv. I am using a logitech controller and when I choose the 'Watch Smart TV' function the cable tv starts along with the programs audio. When I choose a smart home app the cable tv audio remains and the smart home app audio does not come on. I'd like to use this instead of a roku since LG allows playback of Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos in all of the content that supports it, unlike Roku and Amazon Fire Stick.
I'm wondering if you guys have experienced this or know what to do. This is what my 'Watch Smart TV' activity looks like.


1) LG TV Power On
2) Yamaha AV Receiver Power On
3) LG TV Input Smart TV
4) Yamaha AV Receiver HDMI Out

Yamaha Receiver Setup on RX-A780.

1) HDMI Out 1 - HDMI 2 (ARC) from TV to Yamaha Receiver HDMI Out 1
2) HDMI Out 2 - HDMI output from Xfinity box to Yamaha Receiver HDMI Out 2
3) HDMI Out 3 - HDMI output from Xbox One X to Yamaha Receiver HDMI Out 3
I got this working! Also I got everything playing Dolby Atmos in DTHD. Took a while but its definitely worth it.

Kim
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post #135 of 172 Old 03-25-2019, 12:49 PM
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Question Yamaha RX-A780 AVENTAGE receiver

I recently purchased the Yamaha RX-A780 AVENTAGE receiver. When I connect the HDMI output from my satellite box to this receiver's input and then connect receiver's HDMI output (says "ARC") to my 67" HL67A750 LED DLP TV (9 years old), the video and audio are full of static and unwatchable. I cannot make out the onscreen menu. Why?


I should note that when I connect the HDMI cable from the satellite box DIRECTLY to the TV it looks fine.
Also, I can only get clear sound if I use the digital optical cable.

Last edited by jeffbon; 03-26-2019 at 06:51 AM. Reason: new info
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post #136 of 172 Old 03-26-2019, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffbon View Post
I recently purchased the Yamaha RX-A780 AVENTAGE receiver. When I connect the HDMI output from my satellite box to this receiver's input and then connect receiver's HDMI output (says "ARC") to my 67" HL67A750 LED DLP TV (9 years old), the video and audio are full of static and unwatchable. I cannot make out the onscreen menu. Why?

I should note that when I connect the HDMI cable from the satellite box DIRECTLY to the TV it looks fine.
Also, I can only get clear sound if I use the digital optical cable.
Some more detail would help. When you hook the satellite box to the TV, what resolution does the TV report it's getting?

Now when you connect the satellite box to the AVR, select the Setup, Sound, Information and Setup, Video, Information screens, to determine the format being received. Under Option, Video Processing, is it set to "Direct" or "Processing?"

When you say the "onscreen menu" is illegible, is that the satellite box menu? How does the Yamaha AVR onscreen information appear?

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A: Yamaha RX-V775; Chromecast Audio; iPod Classic, Touch. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550. Apple TV 4gen. Chromecast 1gen, Samsung UN40ES6150.

Last edited by ChromeJob; 03-26-2019 at 10:57 PM.
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post #137 of 172 Old 03-30-2019, 02:25 PM
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Sorry guys, this answer was difficult for me to find, not sure how to search in this case so apologies if this has been answered before.

I have the Costco branded model, TSR-7850. I have a PC which is outputting DVI to HDMI (which I put into HDMI input 1, 2 and 3 with the same result, currently plugged into HDMI input 1). My audio card outputs coaxial which I input into the only coaxial input on this receiver (Audio 3). So, I can get video on HDMI and audio on Audio 3 but not both together. Is this possible? I tried ARC on/off. I tried using HDMI input 3 thinking maybe it aligns with Audio 3, no love. Thank you.

P.S. I updated to the latest firmware. The manual is pretty skimpy, downloading the PDF now.
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post #138 of 172 Old 03-30-2019, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by home4sale2 View Post
Sorry guys, this answer was difficult for me to find, not sure how to search in this case so apologies if this has been answered before.

I have the Costco branded model, TSR-7850. I have a PC which is outputting DVI to HDMI (which I put into HDMI input 1, 2 and 3 with the same result, currently plugged into HDMI input 1). My audio card outputs coaxial which I input into the only coaxial input on this receiver (Audio 3). So, I can get video on HDMI and audio on Audio 3 but not both together. Is this possible? I tried ARC on/off. I tried using HDMI input 3 thinking maybe it aligns with Audio 3, no love. Thank you.

P.S. I updated to the latest firmware. The manual is pretty skimpy, downloading the PDF now.
Ok, first step, download manual versus asking redundant question, the answer is on page 142-143 of the 7850 manual. Simply hit setup, system, Audio In and align the audio source to the HDMI port of your choice.
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post #139 of 172 Old 03-30-2019, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by home4sale2 View Post
Ok, first step, download manual versus asking redundant question, the answer is on page 142-143 of the 7850 manual. Simply hit setup, system, Audio In and align the audio source to the HDMI port of your choice.
For further discussion of your model, look into the “yamaha RX-V*85/TSR-7850” thread in this forum section.

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A: Yamaha RX-V775; Chromecast Audio; iPod Classic, Touch. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550. Apple TV 4gen. Chromecast 1gen, Samsung UN40ES6150.
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post #140 of 172 Old 04-16-2019, 07:29 AM
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I am looking at the RX-a780 as a new receiver. I am looking to do 7.1.4 Can this receiver support that if I add a stereo amp for the height speakers?
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post #141 of 172 Old 04-16-2019, 08:20 AM
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Good news, Yamaha is finaly bringing eARC support and Airplay 2 support to their receivers later this month.

Quote:
Yamaha Enhances Home Audio Products with AirPlay 2, New

Music Streaming and Voice Control Capabilities

BUENA PARK, Calif. (April 15, 2019) — Yamaha is bringing music and entertainment fans closer to their favorite artists by giving them access to even more streaming and voice control capabilities with a series of upcoming firmware and app updates. Beginning this month, 15 current home audio products, including a sound bar, wireless speakers and AV receivers, will start offering Apple AirPlay 2 support, Qobuz high-res streaming services and expanded Spotify Connect capabilities. Additionally, starting tomorrow, more than 70 Yamaha audio products will gain support for Actions on Google through an update to the Yamaha MusicCast app.

These new capabilities join a growing family of built-in services – including Spotify, Pandora®, SiriusXMInternet Radio, Deezer, TIDAL and Napster – as well as an impressive lineup of features such as high-resolution audio support, voice control via an Alexa device, and Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity.

Firmware updates will also add eARC (enhanced audio return channel) functionality to 23 of its industry-leading AV receivers.

“Our line of home audio products features some of the most robust hardware in the industry. We’ve been meticulously focused on building on that foundation to enhance the value our customers derive from our latest products through a series of free firmware updates,” said Alex Sadeghian, director, Consumer Audio, Yamaha Corporation of America. “With these firmware updates, we’re giving our customers more choices for how they enjoy their favorite music and audio content. Plus, they now have the option to use their favorite voice assistant, whether it’s Siri, the Google Assistant or Alexa, to control the experience throughout their homes.”

The upcoming firmware updates include:

Support for Apple AirPlay 2, adding the ability to stream Apple Musicand other streaming services from your iPhone, iPad, HomePod and Mac to multiple Yamaha devices and other AirPlay 2-enabled speakers – simultaneously, perfectly in sync and throughout your home. And, with Siri on your iPhone, iPad,HomePod and AirPods, you can control what’s playing in every part of your home with just your voice.
Actions on Google,enabling voice control of compatible Yamaha devices via the Google Assistant. Now you can use your Google Home, Android or iOS devices with the Google Assistant app from the App store to control your Yamaha home theater with voice commands, link rooms hands-free, adjust volumes and more.
Ability to use Spotify Connectwith free Spotify accounts(previously only available for paid subscription-based accounts).
Qobuzstreaming and download service, with playback on updated Yamaha MusicCast devices at true high-resolution up to 192 kHz / 24-bit.
Addition of eARC (enhanced Audio Return Channel)feature to 2017 and 2018 AV receivers, supporting uncompressed audio formats such as Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD, and object-based surround such as Dolby Atmos and DTS:X.
Access to Qobuz will be available through the Yamaha MusicCast app, which allows playback on either a single device or on multiple MusicCast devices throughout the home. MusicCast also allows whole home audio playback of the music stored on your mobile devices, and – for sound bars and AV receivers – externally connected audio sources such as TV sound.

Release schedule

The firmware updates and MusicCast app updates will start on April 16. Those who have registered their products will also receive email notifications when new updates are available.Users will be automatically prompted to install the firmware via the MusicCast app. The schedule is as follows:

Actions on Google

April 16: All MusicCast models introduced since 2015 through an update to the MusicCast app.

AirPlay 2, Qobuz and Spotify Connect updates

Beginning in late April and released by model/series: MusicCast 20 and MusicCast 50 wireless speakers, MusicCast BAR 400 sound bar, RX-A 80 Series AV receivers, RX-V 85 Series AV receivers, RX-S602 slimline AV receiver, ATS-4080 sound bar, TSR-7850 AV receiver, CX-A5200 AV preamp/processor, XDA-QS5400 MusicCast Multi-Room Streaming Amplifier.

Second half of 2019:MusicCast VINYL 500 turntable.

eARC

Beginning in late April and released by model/series:RX-A 80 Series AV receivers, RX-A 70 Series AV receivers, RX-V 85 Series AV receivers, RX-V 83 Series AV receivers, RX-S602 Slimline AV receiver, TSR-7850 AV receiver, TSR-5830 AV receiver, CX-A5200 AV preamp/processor.
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post #142 of 172 Old 04-16-2019, 08:30 AM
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I am looking at the RX-a780 as a new receiver. I am looking to do 7.1.4 Can this receiver support that if I add a stereo amp for the height speakers?
No. The models in this thread (as well as the A1080) are 7CH models and can only support up to 7.1 or 5.1.2 (ie. no expansion beyond 7CH).

The A2080 is a 9CH model but also cannot expand beyond 9CH. Rather the only 2018 model that can do 7.1.4 is the A3080 which is a 9CH model that can expand to 11CH by adding a 2CH external amp.
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post #143 of 172 Old 04-22-2019, 07:12 PM
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Hello.


I'm hoping someone can help with an issue I'm having with a newly purchased 780.


The issue is that when I switch inputs from say "Cable" to "Roku" (or input 2 to input 4) things work fine. But, when switching back to "Cable" I lose all audio. From both the receiver and the TV. The only way I can get audio back is so unplug the cable from the receiver to the TV and plug it back in again. Doing that brings everything back fine.


I thought it had something to do with ARC but all of those options have been turned off everywhere and the issue is still there. It also doesn't matter if I'm using the ARC input on the TV or not. The result is the same.


Switching from say "Cable" to the blu-ray input and back again seems to be okay. But it's not just that input though. I have another input that I will sometimes use for a laptop and switching to that and back again causes the audio to disappear too. Unplug the cable from the TV and plug it back in again and everything is back.


Initial firmware was 1.31 (I think) and after updating to the current of 1.47 the issue is still there.


I don't get it and it's driving me crazy. I'm hoping someone has an idea. I have contacted Yamaha support and the issue has been escalated to level 2 but I'm waiting to hear back. The issue there is I can't be on the phone with them and at home pushing buttons because of their support hours. The hope is someone here might have some kind of clue what's happening and help.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks!
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post #144 of 172 Old 04-23-2019, 07:01 AM
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Problem on new A780

Hello.


I'm hoping someone can help with an issue I'm having with a newly purchased 780.


The issue is that when I switch inputs from say "Cable" to "Roku" (or input 2 to input 4) things work fine. But, when switching back to "Cable" I lose all audio. From both the receiver and the TV. The only way I can get audio back is so unplug the cable from the receiver to the TV and plug it back in again. Doing that brings everything back fine.


I thought it had something to do with ARC but all of those options have been turned off everywhere and the issue is still there. It also doesn't matter if I'm using the ARC input on the TV or not. The result is the same.


Switching from say "Cable" to the blu-ray input and back again seems to be okay. But it's not just that input though. I have another input that I will sometimes use for a laptop and switching to that and back again causes the audio to disappear too. Unplug the cable from the TV and plug it back in again and everything is back.


Initial firmware was 1.31 (I think) and after updating to the current of 1.47 the issue is still there.


I don't get it and it's driving me crazy. I'm hoping someone has an idea. I have contacted Yamaha support and the issue has been escalated to level 2 but I'm waiting to hear back. The issue there is I can't be on the phone with them and at home pushing buttons because of their support hours. The hope is someone here might have some kind of clue what's happening and help.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks!
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post #145 of 172 Old 04-24-2019, 07:27 AM
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Quick unsolicited tip: do not unplug and plug in HDMI components while the AVR or devices are powered on.

"Sell crazy some place else -- we're all stocked up here."
Are you new to the forum? Please read forum FAQs and stickies. Like posts that help you. RTFM, always.
A: Yamaha RX-V775; Chromecast Audio; iPod Classic, Touch. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center, Hsu VTF-2 Mk4.
V: Panasonic DMP-BDT215, Yamaha DVD-S550. Apple TV 4gen. Chromecast 1gen, Samsung UN40ES6150.
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post #146 of 172 Old 04-24-2019, 07:33 AM
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Quick unsolicited tip: do not unplug and plug in HDMI components while the AVR or devices are powered on.
Tip or not, it's been the ONLY way to bring things back to normal.
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post #147 of 172 Old 04-24-2019, 07:26 PM
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Could you go into detail with how things are set up? You have cable box, roku, and blu-ray player all as HDMI inputs to the Yamaha, then Yamaha to the TV via HDMI? Do you use TV apps for anything and make use of ARC?

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Hello.
Spoiler!
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post #148 of 172 Old 04-25-2019, 09:14 AM
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Tip or not, it's been the ONLY way to bring things back to normal.
AFAIK, a possibility of a short is present when powered HDMI connections are plugged in, risking damage. Power everything down (the AVR may only be in standby, unplug it; same with a TV), then play with HDMI connections.

There's probably something else at the root of your problem, and we'll try to help you. If you damage your equipment, you're on your own.
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post #149 of 172 Old 04-25-2019, 09:24 AM
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AFAIK, a possibility of a short is present when powered HDMI connections are plugged in, risking damage. Power everything down (the AVR may only be in standby, unplug it; same with a TV), then play with HDMI connections.

There's probably something else at the root of your problem, and we'll try to help you. If you damage your equipment, you're on your own.
Still more testing to do, but, I think I may have found the answer.


Apparently Samsung has a thing called Input Signal Plus on their TV's and that was enabled on the port that the receiver is plugged into. I turned that off and the problem is gone. The book doesn't give a ton of info on what that actually does so I'm not sure why that changes things. But, if after a couple more test the results are the same, that seems to be the solution.
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post #150 of 172 Old 04-25-2019, 09:35 AM
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That sure sounds like Samsung. :-\ Features with unique names and brief description. Consumer Reports and other sites recommend turning off ALL enhancement options on a modern TV, then calibrating and testing it to personal preference. That was the case with mine.

Google is your friend. => https://www.samsung.com/us/support/answer/ANS00082465/
Quote:
You connected your UHD Blu-ray player or UHD game console to your TV to watch a new release in 4K – now what? Use Input Signal Plus (also known as HDMI UHD Color) to optimize the TV for UHD content. The best part is on some of our TVs, the device is instantly recognized and this setting is turned on automatically.

Last edited by ChromeJob; 04-25-2019 at 10:16 AM.
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