The "Official" Yamaha RX-A3080, RX-A2080 and RX-A1080 AVENTAGE AVR Thread - Page 17 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #481 of 1508 Old 02-05-2019, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H Stevens View Post
What's happening is when you run multi position you are telling YPAO that you have a much larger listening position, you do not mention in your post how far apart you are positioning the mic. If you are measuring a wide area with the 8 positions, YPAO is trying to compensate for this large listening area that you are telling it that you have and will increase subwoofer and surround channel levels to compensate and find a happy medium for all listening positions.

Also, you need to lower the gain/volume control on the sub amplifier because in single position measurement the -10 and -8 is saying that it is set too high, my opinion.

If you would like to run a multi measure, keep the mic within a foot or two of each position beginning with the center of the listening position as position one.

This link is somewhat helpful, although I disagree with some of his opinion/findings:

https://simpleonline.blog
Thanks for the link. I will check it too.

I have a question about the measurement. I have a room about 4 meters x 5 meters (13x16 foot). Usually have 2 listeners. So I put the mic center (between the 2 listeners, ear hight) and the 2. is 1 foot left and the 3. is 1 foot right from the center. Then I start angle/height measure. Is this good this way or should I use only single measurement? I sit around 2 meters (7 foot) away from the TV and around 8 from the Fronts.
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post #482 of 1508 Old 02-05-2019, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renatto View Post
Thanks for the link. I will check it too.

I have a question about the measurement. I have a room about 4 meters x 5 meters (13x16 foot). Usually have 2 listeners. So I put the mic center (between the 2 listeners, ear hight) and the 2. is 1 foot left and the 3. is 1 foot right from the center. Then I start angle/height measure. Is this good this way or should I use only single measurement? I sit around 2 meters (7 foot) away from the TV and around 8 from the Fronts.
The single measure vs. multi measure is something that you would have to compare for yourself if that is possible because you would be relying on your ears, you could also do some testing with REW if you have the ability. Personally, I prefer single measure with angle & height measurements in my room vs. multi measure but I have been doing this for years and know my system well.

Some proponents of multi measure would argue that you are providing a better "sample" for YPAO/Audyssey and there may be some validity to that, I would say that you are simply telling the software that you have a larger listening area and more listeners, which in turn forces the software to find a happy medium for all positions as it simple cannot offer all of it's correction capability to 8 positions.

For you with two listeners, I would suggest that you start with a single measure in the middle of the two positions as described in the manual and then run the angle & heights form the same spot. Listen to this for a while (weeks) until you are very familiar with how it sounds and then try a multi measure if you choose.
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post #483 of 1508 Old 02-05-2019, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H Stevens View Post
The single measure vs. multi measure is something that you would have to compare for yourself if that is possible because you would be relying on your ears, you could also do some testing with REW if you have the ability. Personally, I prefer single measure with angle & height measurements in my room vs. multi measure but I have been doing this for years and know my system well.

Some proponents of multi measure would argue that you are providing a better "sample" for YPAO/Audyssey and there may be some validity to that, I would say that you are simply telling the software that you have a larger listening area and more listeners, which in turn forces the software to find a happy medium for all positions as it simple cannot offer all of it's correction capability to 8 positions.

For you with two listeners, I would suggest that you start with a single measure in the middle of the two positions as described in the manual and then run the angle & heights form the same spot. Listen to this for a while (weeks) until you are very familiar with how it sounds and then try a multi measure if you choose.
Thank for your reply! Because I always used these 3 position for measure in the past, maybe I will hear the difference immediately with the single measure. So I give it a try.

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post #484 of 1508 Old 02-05-2019, 10:26 AM
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Hey guys,
long time reader first time poster.
I have owned Yamaha receivers for a long time, particularly the ones offered through our local Costco Warehouse. Currently I own, RX-V775.
I have a 5.1 system (polk audio floor standing speakers + center) with 12" subwoofer all that in my living room TV. I also have the same receiver powering two outdoor speakers and I am using the second HDMI out to give me signal to the outside TV.

I didn't want to have to cut drywall and do a mess on my current home, but since I purchase a new home, having to do that is not as concerning as it wont be occupied at the moment. Time for major work.
My idea is to add to my existing setup, speakers in the master bed/bath (minimum of 2), garage, 2 additional outdoor speakers for the far corners of the patio, and a new zone 3 for the upstairs living room (this could just be HDMI video/audio without powered speakers).

I was looking at the new Yamaha receivers, particularly the RXA3080 and its ability to retain my main setup of sharing main zone with zone 2 video and audio, and the new zone 3 independent capability. How would you guys go about working the other speakers? do you think buying the A3080 is a good investment, or going with an amp for other zones would work with my current setup?

I like to simplify things and use one single receiver to control it all. I will wire everything to a media cabinet (currently house is wired for CAT5e on most rooms). Most of the time I use the party-mode function to power the inside and outside speakers, as well as video inside and outside. In this new case, I guess having the ability to just have audio on the garage, or master bedroom would be important but also retaining the same functionality I currently have.

Any suggestions of how you guys would approach this will be greatly appreciated. My pocket is not a bottomless pit, so considering money is also of importance (hence the reuse of my current setup).

Thanks
Regards,
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post #485 of 1508 Old 02-05-2019, 06:17 PM
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I returned them all and kept my 1800. It just sounds better, much better really. I was shocked but I just couldn’t get the quality I was used to with the newer receivers. The 1800 just sounds richer to me. Much better quality and I’m looking for a 3800 or another 1800 as a backup.

Yes. Bass is MUCH better on the 1800. What’s funny is even video is better when I run it through the 1800....can’t explain it but it just looks like it has more punch.

I know you're done with the 3080 and I totally see your point. FWIW- I hooked up my old 3800 and copied over the exact parametric settings to the 3080. Boosted the 50HZ frequencies only, by 2 DBS, which is what the bass tone control actually does, according to the Yamaha manual. So I disregarded YPAO entirely and set it up by ear, and I'll use a SPL meter soon. It sounds MUCH better now. Better than the 3800? NO! But almost as good. Worth the price ? NO. I already have the 3800, so why buy another amp that brings nothing to the party at all.


For me, comparing them head on, Dolby Surround is not an improvement on DD+. For me, DD+ is slightly better in most of the movies I've checked it against. That's a surprise and a disappointment. Disclaimer: I only have a 4.0 system, but my 2 main speakers rock. I'm still playing with it, but likely I'll return it- I still need a solution to get DD+ out of my media streamers to my 3800. ALSO: haven't listened to Blu Rays with uncompressed DD True HD- but those already sound terrific so I don't think the 3080 will beat the 3800.



So I'm curious if anyone else has listened to Dolby Digital Plus VS Dolby Surround, back and forth? I prefer DD+.
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post #486 of 1508 Old 02-05-2019, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr Steve View Post
I know you're done with the 3080 and I totally see your point. FWIW- I hooked up my old 3800 and copied over the exact parametric settings to the 3080. Boosted the 50HZ frequencies only, by 2 DBS, which is what the bass tone control actually does, according to the Yamaha manual. So I disregarded YPAO entirely and set it up by ear, and I'll use a SPL meter soon. It sounds MUCH better now. Better than the 3800? NO! But almost as good. Worth the price ? NO. I already have the 3800, so why buy another amp that brings nothing to the party at all.


For me, comparing them head on, Dolby Surround is not an improvement on DD+. For me, DD+ is slightly better in most of the movies I've checked it against. That's a surprise and a disappointment. Disclaimer: I only have a 4.0 system, but my 2 main speakers rock. I'm still playing with it, but likely I'll return it- I still need a solution to get DD+ out of my media streamers to my 3800. ALSO: haven't listened to Blu Rays with uncompressed DD True HD- but those already sound terrific so I don't think the 3080 will beat the 3800.



So I'm curious if anyone else has listened to Dolby Digital Plus VS Dolby Surround, back and forth? I prefer DD+.
I used my SPL meter, copied EQ settings and got them as close as possible and guess what, the 3800/1800 was better. It just had a fuller and richer sounds. The bass also seemed lower and just more of it too. I’m running a 7.1 system with two Buttkickers on their own amp too. The new 2070 and 3080 just couldn’t compete with he older model. Trust me, I spent over a week, 8 hours a day, playing with the settings. The older Dolby mixes sound more aggressive to me too, which is a good thing.
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post #487 of 1508 Old 02-05-2019, 07:07 PM
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I used my SPL meter, copied EQ settings and got them as close as possible and guess what, the 3800/1800 was better. It just had a fuller and richer sounds. The bass also seemed lower and just more of it too. I’m running a 7.1 system with two Buttkickers on their own amp too. The new 2070 and 3080 just couldn’t compete with he older model. Trust me, I spent over a week, 8 hours a day, playing with the settings. The older Dolby mixes sound more aggressive to me too, which is a good thing.

LOL!!! I get it!! (I just wish I could afford a set of Buttkickers!) It's probably goin back in a bit, but I have 6 weeks to return it, so may as well play with it. The only advantage I can find is that I can use all my remotes to control the volume but eh.. not worth almost 2K for that
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post #488 of 1508 Old 02-05-2019, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Gruson View Post
I used my SPL meter, copied EQ settings and got them as close as possible and guess what, the 3800/1800 was better. It just had a fuller and richer sounds. The bass also seemed lower and just more of it too. I’m running a 7.1 system with two Buttkickers on their own amp too. The new 2070 and 3080 just couldn’t compete with he older model. Trust me, I spent over a week, 8 hours a day, playing with the settings. The older Dolby mixes sound more aggressive to me too, which is a good thing.

Are you a Neural THX fan? I love that on music (and stereo films) so much, that's the big reason I haven't upgraded all these years. Looks like I was right to be concerned.
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post #489 of 1508 Old 02-05-2019, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr Steve View Post
So I'm curious if anyone else has listened to Dolby Digital Plus VS Dolby Surround, back and forth? I prefer DD+.
These are two different things.

Dolby Digital Plus is lossy compressed audio typically used by streaming video services.

Dolby Surround is an audio upmixer that is the next evolution of Dolby Pro Logic (II, IIx, IIz).
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post #490 of 1508 Old 02-05-2019, 08:45 PM
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These are two different things.

Dolby Digital Plus is lossy compressed audio typically used by streaming video services.

Dolby Surround is an audio upmixer that is the next evolution of Dolby Pro Logic (II, IIx, IIz).

Yes I know. My question perhaps should have been: who else prefers the native DD+ on films, as opposed to upmixing it with Dolby Surround? I prefer the DD+ straight.
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post #491 of 1508 Old 02-06-2019, 01:21 AM
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I hooked up my old 3800 and copied over the exact parametric settings to the 3080.
you are aware of the R.S.C. part (which doesn't exist in the old 3800)?
if you didn't clear the entire manual YPAO settings (incl. R.S.C.) you had a undefined mess of manual PEQ and R.S.C. settings, where typically the PEQ settings by YPAO do some "wieder corrections" for the much more subtle R.S.C. adjustments, they work hand in hand.
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post #492 of 1508 Old 02-06-2019, 04:17 AM
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you are aware of the R.S.C. part (which doesn't exist in the old 3800)?
if you didn't clear the entire manual YPAO settings (incl. R.S.C.) you had a undefined mess of manual PEQ and R.S.C. settings, where typically the PEQ settings by YPAO do some "wieder corrections" for the much more subtle R.S.C. adjustments, they work hand in hand.

Yes, I am, thanks for pointing it out. I redid all the YPAO with multiple positions. Didn't help. Setting it all by hand actually got me to a listenable place and I enjoyed good surround with Incredibles 2 last night, as well as some rock albums- but still not quite where my 3800 was, and still prefer DD+ to DSUR, after carefully A-B ing them . Sigh. This is why we call it a hobby- it drives us nuts. My problem at this point is getting 4k AND DD+from streaming to my legacy 3800- my option now is SPDIF/Optical out from my Sony OLED, which only carries DD, not DD+. My next step I think is to pick up an Oppo 203 and stream my ATV through that to my 3800- which is a bit of overkill. Anyone know of another solution to split an HDMI signal into video for a 4K TV and DD+ audio for a "legacy" AVR?
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post #493 of 1508 Old 02-06-2019, 04:44 AM
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Yes, I am, thanks for pointing it out. I redid all the YPAO with multiple positions. Didn't help. Setting it all by hand actually got me to a listenable place
that doesn't sound like you understood what R.S.C. really is...
it's not related to multiple positions at all! For example the RX-V6xx have R.S.C. but no multi point measurement.
you don't have access to the R.S.C. filters and can't even see their settings (except by doing a frequency response measurement on the pre-out, then you get the reverse of it). If you do a YPAO measurement and afterwards set the PEQ manually you still have the R.S.C. corrections in place, that's what I wanted to say.

Quote:
still prefer DD+ to DSUR, after carefully A-B ing them
you can't seriously do an A-B comparison between DD+ and DSUR!!!
that's like comparing BMWs with red cars...
one is a manufacturer the other a color! DD+ is a lossy encoded sound format, DSUR an up mixer, two COMPLETELY DIFFERENT things.
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post #494 of 1508 Old 02-06-2019, 07:38 AM
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If you have a 5.1 system, and are inputting "DD" or "DD+"; will you get the same output with "straight" vs. "surr-decode---auto or Dsur"? I would assume the answer is "yes" since there is no upmixing involved. However, I would also assume that "surr-decode---neural:x" provides the somewhat expanded sound "neural:x" creates on soundbars.

Would someone more knowledgeable confirm or correct my above assumptions? Thanks.

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Dolby Surround and Neural:X are best used with at least 2, preferably 4 Presence Speakers (Overhead/Height) to create a surround "bubble" around and above you.
It's intended to expand a native 5.1 track to enhance and "simulate" a native ATMOS/DTS:X 7.1.4 soundtrack with overhead effects/ambiance.

Anyone running a soundbar or a 4.0 speaker configuration (like Dr Steve) will see about the same level of audio benefit over straight DD 5.1,
as someone trying to compare video improvements of a new 4K/UHD/HDR/DV movie to an old DVD while viewing both on a 30 y/o 480i CRT TV.

If you want to realize the true benefits of a Modern Flagship 7.1.4 4K HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2 AVR,
...get out of the stone ages, add 7 more speakers, 4K capable player and 4K/HDR TV/Projector.

Complaining that your New 12 cylinder Lamborghini is under performing on the track,
then saying it's only running on 4 cylinders and you filled the tank with 87 octane is unreasonable. (IMHO)


I don't have an RX-A3080,
But have an RX-V1800, RX-V3900, RX-A3050 and an RX-A3070
(and that's just the last 12 years, Yamaha receivers exclusively since 1980)

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Question...

Can the A3080 (or A5200) play from the TV ARC input 7 channels (9 channels) in the main zone and 2 channels in zone 2 simultaneously?

Thanks...
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post #497 of 1508 Old 02-06-2019, 11:17 AM
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Adorama has the 80 series models marked "closeout". Have new models been announced, or is this just a marketing move by Adorama?
Maybe they are not carring Yamaha anymore

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As I know the new models come only August-September (Marantz, Denon, Yamaha - EU).
Correct, new units mid to late summer.....
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post #498 of 1508 Old 02-06-2019, 11:32 AM
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Maybe they are not carring Yamaha anymore
Not according to them. Where did you get that information? Edit:After re-reading I see you said "maybe". That's not the case according to them. Whoever does their website probably flagged a few models as closeout by mistake.

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post #499 of 1508 Old 02-06-2019, 03:28 PM
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Not according to them. Where did you get that information? Edit:After re-reading I see you said "maybe". That's not the case according to them. Whoever does their website probably flagged a few models as closeout by mistake.
Just checked the stocks in one of the biggest company's site (and Yamaha importer Hungary - EU). They have only 2 of 2080,but not 1080/3080. Only cheaper models. And they don't have any of the Marantz SR5013/6/7 or Denon X3/4/6, but I can preorder. I see one SR6013 for sale with 25% discount from yesterday (on price checker). So I think they "know" (from sales statistic) most of the people who want to buy new "higher end" receiver get it by 1-6 months after release, so between August-January. So maybe they just start to sell out the 2018 models in time.

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post #500 of 1508 Old 02-06-2019, 04:14 PM
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YPAO Question

Hello Everyone,

YPAO says to be ran with subwoofer at 50% gain and crossover at maximum, which I do. But then I want the sub to cut frequency at 80~90Hz. Should I run YPAO with the crossover set at 80~90Hz instead of maximum?

Thank you.
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Originally Posted by SleepyKat View Post
Hello Everyone,

YPAO says to be ran with subwoofer at 50% gain and crossover at maximum, which I do. But then I want the sub to cut frequency at 80~90Hz. Should I run YPAO with the crossover set at 80~90Hz instead of maximum?

Thank you.
That's not how it works.

Crossover settings are for Speakers (set to small) Not for Subwoofers.
YPAO will set your small speakers and crossovers according to their measured capability.

It is advisable to change any speakers that YPAO set to Large by manually override to Small. (Speaker>Setup>Manual...)
Regardless of the physical size of your speakers and set the crossover at 80Hz. (see article links below)
Do not re-run YPAO after making the manual changes.

The Sub will get all the <80Hz content from all speakers,
+ everything in the LFE (.1) Channel that can range from 3Hz to 120Hz.
LFE signals will not go to your speakers unless they are set to Large (Full Range)

If you limit the crossover on the Sub at 80Hz,
you would be throwing way all LFE (.1) content between 80Hz - 120Hz and have a hole in your FR

Set the Sub to FULL range and let the AVR send the appropriate info to the right speakers/subs.

My Subs are fully capable from 10Hz-250Hz and have 4800w peak output each,
Why would I want to limit their capabilities by cutting them off at 80Hz ?

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post #502 of 1508 Old 02-06-2019, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PioManiac View Post
Dolby Surround and Neural:X are best used with at least 2, preferably 4 Presence Speakers (Overhead/Height) to create a surround "bubble" around and above you.
It's intended to expand a native 5.1 track to enhance and "simulate" a native ATMOS/DTS:X 7.1.4 soundtrack with overhead effects/ambiance.

Anyone running a soundbar or a 4.0 speaker configuration (like Dr Steve) will see about the same level of audio benefit over straight DD 5.1,
as someone trying to compare video improvements of a new 4K/UHD/HDR/DV movie to an old DVD while viewing both on a 30 y/o 480i CRT TV.

If you want to realize the true benefits of a Modern Flagship 7.1.4 4K HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2 AVR,
...get out of the stone ages, add 7 more speakers, 4K capable player and 4K/HDR TV/Projector.

Complaining that your New 12 cylinder Lamborghini is under performing on the track,
then saying it's only running on 4 cylinders and you filled the tank with 87 octane is unreasonable. (IMHO)


I don't have an RX-A3080,
But have an RX-V1800, RX-V3900, RX-A3050 and an RX-A3070
(and that's just the last 12 years, Yamaha receivers exclusively since 1980)

Way beyond the stone ages here. Dedicated room, 119” screen, Epson 5040 (faux 4K), 7.1, Paradigm Studios all around, and two Buttkickers. The 3080 was no Lambo and not up to par with the rest of the system. Not complaining, just giving honest feedback when doing a direct comparison.
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post #503 of 1508 Old 02-06-2019, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SleepyKat View Post
Hello Everyone,

YPAO says to be ran with subwoofer at 50% gain and crossover at maximum, which I do. But then I want the sub to cut frequency at 80~90Hz. Should I run YPAO with the crossover set at 80~90Hz instead of maximum?
In addition to what Piomaniac said, if you're using the SUB PRE OUT on the AVR to a line level input on the sub, you most likely want to set the crossover or high pass filter on the sub to max, though on most subs it won't be used. (The sub's crossover is generally applied to powered speaker outputs into the sub, which the sub divvies up and sends frequencies above the cross over out to speakers attached to it.)

You're not using the crossover circuit on the sub at all, the AVR will be doing that.

Yes, set the sub gain to 25% (my recommendation), then run YPAO. If YPAO sets the level of the sub in the AVR speakers levels to anything lower than -8 dB, then turn the sub gain knob down 25% and run again; if YPAO sets higher than +5 dB, tweak the sub gain high and run YPAO again. You want YPAO to set the sub level from roughly -5 dB to +5 dB, so there is adjustment room up and down (at the AVR) to taste. You can then leave the sub gain knob alone for the next few years (seriously).

Read your subwoofer manual. If it's well written, it will explain the two different ways to use the sub (self-powered, or passive i.e. using speaker connections).

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post #504 of 1508 Old 02-07-2019, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gruson View Post
Way beyond the stone ages here. Dedicated room, 119” screen, Epson 5040 (faux 4K), 7.1, Paradigm Studios all around, and two Buttkickers. The 3080 was no Lambo and not up to par with the rest of the system. Not complaining, just giving honest feedback when doing a direct comparison.
My comments were directed to Dr Steve for his comparison between DD and Dolby Surround using only 4 speakers, no sub
and a Lossy Compressed DVD (circa 1995) as his source material.

That's not even close to the optimum testing parameters to fully appreciate the full benefits of a New 11 Channel Flagship AVR.
Who buys an 11.2 capable channel AVR to run 4 speakers and no sub(s).

DVD 5.1 DD is 24 years old
Bluray 7.1 is 13 years old

ATMOS/DTS:X has already been around for ~3 years
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post #505 of 1508 Old 02-07-2019, 07:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Cool

My room has no Drywall surfaces at all, and bookcases on 3 walls for sound wave diffusion.

Walls are velvet stapled to wood studs over Roxul (controls and light and sound reflections and acts as a bass trap)
I carefully setup my speaker locations, measured and calibrated my Audio and Video for peak performance.
(REW/UMIK-1/MiniDSP 2x4HD/Spyder5/HDFury Vertex)



I've spent a substantial amount in equipment upgrades in just the last 3 years for 4K HDCP 2.2/HDMI 2.0
and moving from 7.1 to 7.4.4 ATMOS/DTS:X was a Total Audio Game Changer!

I still have my 10 y/o RX-V3900 (left) repurposed as an amp utilizing the Multi-Channel inputs to power my 4 Presence Speakers,
My current RX-A3070 (right) replaced my 3 y/o RX-A3050, drives the 7 bed layer channels only.



...then to top that off added 9600 watts of Funk Audio Sub Power up front,
a pair of 15" Velodyne 2000w rear near field subs and 4 Crowson Motion Actuators (500w) x 4 running off the D-501 amp.



On the Video side, a JVC X750 (RS500) Projector retired my 8 y/o Epson Projector, and a 65 OLED replaced my 10 y/o 50" Pioneer Kuro.



120" powered screen drops from the ceiling when the projector turns on... (8'-6" viewing distance)







My 12 year old RX-V1800 Yamaha is still working, used for a different zone in another room with my Kuro.
No way it can compete with modern AVR's and smart TV's these days....like I said.....Stone Age!

My next upgrade will be Top Middle Overhead Speakers (for 7.4.6)
I already have the matching speakers, just not wired in due to Yamaha lagging behind D/M

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post #506 of 1508 Old 02-07-2019, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PioManiac View Post
That's not how it works.

Crossover settings are for Speakers (set to small) Not for Subwoofers.
YPAO will set your small speakers and crossovers according to their measured capability.

It is advisable to change any speakers that YPAO set to Large by manually override to Small. (Speaker>Setup>Manual...)
Regardless of the physical size of your speakers and set the crossover at 80Hz. (see article links below)
Do not re-run YPAO after making the manual changes.

The Sub will get all the <80Hz content from all speakers,
+ everything in the LFE (.1) Channel that can range from 3Hz to 120Hz.
LFE signals will not go to your speakers unless they are set to Large (Full Range)

If you limit the crossover on the Sub at 80Hz,
you would be throwing way all LFE (.1) content between 80Hz - 120Hz and have a hole in your FR

Set the Sub to FULL range and let the AVR send the appropriate info to the right speakers/subs.

My Subs are fully capable from 10Hz-250Hz and have 4800w peak output each,
Why would I want to limit their capabilities by cutting them off at 80Hz ?

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That's pretty much how I do it; run YPAO and manually change the speakers to "small" @ 80Hz, but wasn't sure what to do with the sub. So if I understand correctly, leave the sub during and after YPAO at its maximum on the crossover.

Thanks!
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post #507 of 1508 Old 02-07-2019, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SleepyKat View Post
That's pretty much how I do it; run YPAO and manually change the speakers to "small" @ 80Hz, but wasn't sure what to do with the sub. So if I understand correctly, leave the sub during and after YPAO at its maximum on the crossover.

Thanks!
Correct, Speakers set to small need crossover settings, not the sub(s)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
In addition to what Piomaniac said, if you're using the SUB PRE OUT on the AVR to a line level input on the sub, you most likely want to set the crossover or high pass filter on the sub to max, though on most subs it won't be used. (The sub's crossover is generally applied to powered speaker outputs into the sub, which the sub divvies up and sends frequencies above the cross over out to speakers attached to it.)

You're not using the crossover circuit on the sub at all, the AVR will be doing that.

Yes, set the sub gain to 25% (my recommendation), then run YPAO. If YPAO sets the level of the sub in the AVR speakers levels to anything lower than -8 dB, then turn the sub gain knob down 25% and run again; if YPAO sets higher than +5 dB, tweak the sub gain high and run YPAO again. You want YPAO to set the sub level from roughly -5 dB to +5 dB, so there is adjustment room up and down (at the AVR) to taste. You can then leave the sub gain knob alone for the next few years (seriously).

Read your subwoofer manual. If it's well written, it will explain the two different ways to use the sub (self-powered, or passive i.e. using speaker connections).
Yes, I am using the SUB PRE OUT and splitting the line into the two inputs on the sub. I am going to run YPAO with your recommendations, but I believe right now sub is set to 0.0dB.
Thanks!
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post #509 of 1508 Old 02-07-2019, 08:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SleepyKat View Post
Yes, I am using the SUB PRE OUT and splitting the line into the two inputs on the sub. I am going to run YPAO with your recommendations, but I believe right now sub is set to 0.0dB.
Thanks!
My Subs are also set to 0.0 (reference) Level in the AVR is -6
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Last edited by PioManiac; 02-08-2019 at 08:38 PM.
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post #510 of 1508 Old 02-07-2019, 08:24 AM
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Very very nice. For kicks and grins, I would love for you to hook up your old receiver just for comparison. I realize it does not support 4K or Atmos but I think you will find it does have a different sound for sure.
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