The "Official" Yamaha RX-A3080, RX-A2080 and RX-A1080 AVENTAGE AVR Thread - Page 22 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #631 of 1377 Old 03-02-2019, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
If your AVR has gone into protect mode, that's one big whopping giant-size clue that you may be overdriving the amp with those 4 ohm speakers. Are they technically rated that way? Did they come from an HTiB?

I would enable the 6 ohm mode in Advanced Setup if using any of those speakers further (OM p. 23, p. 138). Note in most Yamaha AVRs this only protects against left and right speakers, and other speakers must be 8 ohm, but the 1080 OM doesn't specify this that I can see. If you're driving your AVR near reference volume, strongly recommend 8 ohm speakers.
At 6 ohm mode decrease power voltage supplying all power amplifier, for all channels.
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post #632 of 1377 Old 03-03-2019, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
If your AVR has gone into protect mode, that's one big whopping giant-size clue that you may be overdriving the amp with those 4 ohm speakers. Are they technically rated that way? Did they come from an HTiB?
The front towers are Polk LSi15s (specs). Yep--4 ohm and measure out that way. Very good sound when driven properly.

The Zone 2 speakers are 6.5" marine cones on an outside porch ceiling. They meter out at about 4 ohm also. Hunted around yesterday and it looks like all similar speakers are 4 ohm. Go figure. Didn't think I was running either set too loud but still triggered protect mode a few weeks back. Service center factory reset got it back to life.

I figured out what was wrong with the pre-outs. Operator error. Wasn't turning the AVR vol up enough to get them driven. The system is much happier now that both the Polks and the Zone 2 cones are breathing from a 130 Watts /ch @ 4 ohm amp; 80's Japanese goodness. Plus Zone 1 and Zone 2 are back in sync. There is enough of a delay between Z1 and Z2 inthe A1080 that when the door was open to the porch it sounded like a bad echo. Not much "processing delay" between the A and B very-analog circuits on that old PA block.

Tnx to all that weighed in. Pity Yamaha specs the A1080 for 4 ohm outputs on the web site but not in the OM. Or the design.

Last edited by ToddGFL; 03-03-2019 at 07:24 AM.
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post #633 of 1377 Old 03-03-2019, 10:57 AM
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If you’re measuring speaker impedance with a plain ohmmeter, that’s not how impedance works.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_impedance
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Last edited by ChromeJob; 03-03-2019 at 10:32 PM. Reason: adding wikipedia article for those willing to learn
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post #634 of 1377 Old 03-03-2019, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post
If you’re measuring speaker impedance with a plain ohmmeter, that’s not how impedance works.
Yeah, but close enough given the tower and Z2 cones are both rated at 4 ohms, and I don't have the gear at home to do it right.
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post #635 of 1377 Old 03-04-2019, 11:58 AM
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Is it best to run from cable box 1080p HDMI to my Yamaha 3080 (and then to 4k TV) or cable 1080p to 4k TV and send audio from TV to my Yamaha AVR?
I'm upgrading from a 2012 Pioneer Plasma HD1080p TV to a 2018 LG OLED UHD4K.

I have always connected my Cable HDMI and Sony 4kUHD Blue-Ray to my Yamaha AVR and then to my Plasma TV, and this has worked great.
I am questioning the alternate sequence as most programming from the cable box will be 1080p which will be upconverted to 4k.
In general, does the Yamaha AVR or the LG UHD TV do a better job at upconverting?
Given the high quality of the Yamaha, I thought I might start here. I suspect I'm not the first to ask this so, if there is a discussion board on this topic, please point me where to look.
Thanks, Cy
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post #636 of 1377 Old 03-04-2019, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cyesp View Post
Is it best to run from cable box 1080p HDMI to my Yamaha 3080 (and then to 4k TV) or cable 1080p to 4k TV and send audio from TV to my Yamaha AVR?
I'm upgrading from a 2012 Pioneer Plasma HD1080p TV to a 2018 LG OLED UHD4K.

I have always connected my Cable HDMI and Sony 4kUHD Blue-Ray to my Yamaha AVR and then to my Plasma TV, and this has worked great.
I am questioning the alternate sequence as most programming from the cable box will be 1080p which will be upconverted to 4k.
In general, does the Yamaha AVR or the LG UHD TV do a better job at upconverting?
Given the high quality of the Yamaha, I thought I might start here. I suspect I'm not the first to ask this so, if there is a discussion board on this topic, please point me where to look.
Thanks, Cy
You can experiment and see which upconversion you prefer. However, you don't need to go direct to the display to enable display upconversion. You can go direct to the Yamaha and use a setup for it's upconversion; or you can setup for a pass through which doesn't touch the video.

I definitely prefer my Sony Z9D's upconversion if compared to the Yamaha. My Yamaha is setup for pass through.
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post #637 of 1377 Old 03-04-2019, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr Steve View Post
My Amazon 4K Firestick works fine plugged directly into my Sony A9F TV, BUT not at all plugged into my Yamaha 3080 receiver. I've tried 3 different inputs on the 3080, 2 different firesticks. The first firestick worked for 3 weeks then stopped. Makes me think I hit a setting on the 3080 somehow, but haven;t a clue what. Anyone know what's going on here? Thank you.

I'm using a Fire TV Stick 4K plugged directly into my 3080 and it works fine. My TV is an LG UH8500 though. Make sure the 3080 is set to 4K Mode 1 (pg. 161 in the manual). Other than that, my only guess is something to do with Dolby Vision. The Fire TV stick defaults to DV for the home menu. I know the Sonys use a different DV profile from everyone else, so assuming your A9F has the DV firmware update, maybe there's an incompatibility somewhere in the chain? I don't have a Sony, so I have no way to test that.
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post #638 of 1377 Old 03-04-2019, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by cyesp View Post
... Given the high quality of the Yamaha, I thought I might start here. I suspect I'm not the first to ask this so, if there is a discussion board on this topic, please point me where to look.
Thanks, Cy
You're in it. As per previous discussions in the Yamaha owners' threads, using HDMI-ARC or S/PDIF to pass the audio back through the TV may downconvert it to those limitations, namely DD/DD+ multichannel, or PCM 2.0. When possible, use your AVR as the hub.
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post #639 of 1377 Old 03-04-2019, 05:58 PM
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YPAO and mini dsp

It's actually not a 10/20/3080, but their brother, the cx-a5200.

I've run YPAO, set all the speakers to small/80hz and it sounds great.

Right now, the two subs are in opposing corners - one of two places they will fit - although they could alternatively sit in the front L/R corners, the opposing setup seems to provide more tactile response.

From what I've read, YPAO isn't much help below 35hz. Can I get a meaningful improvement in sound by investing in/running a mini dsp/umk-1/REW setup - even though I can't do the "sub crawl" and put them in the best place for sound (as I'm limited to the two placement options described?)
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post #640 of 1377 Old 03-04-2019, 11:47 PM
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Just bumping this up... has anyone ever lost connectivity to their wireless surrounds?

I have a 1080 that’s been working fine since it got it. Setup has been the same. Wired Mains center and Sub. MusicCast 20s as wireless Surrounds as my rears. Have had 0 problems. Then today rears suddenly have no sound.
I’ve turned everything on an off, unplugged everything, unlinked and relinked rears, tested playing directly to the rears through both air play and Spotify connect as solo speakers and as musiccast stereo link works perfect. Relinked everything, system says they’re linked, network is fine, when I hit power on one of them they turn off the receiver so the link is clearly there. But can’t get any sound out of them, not on any input, through any preset, not even a straight test tone. Not sure where to troubleshoot next. Any help would be great. Thanks! - TM
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post #641 of 1377 Old 03-05-2019, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by rlb View Post

I definitely prefer my Sony Z9D's upconversion if compared to the Yamaha. My Yamaha is setup for pass through.
Now, because you are talking about it, may I ask which is the best for upconversion in my chain?

Himedia Q30 > RX-A2080 > LG OLED55B7.

Now Himedia sending out 1080p/2160p (or XboxOneX 2160p) > AVR set always 4K > TV

I thought the AVR has the best upscaling system, that's why I set AVR to 4K. Should I set to through and do it with the TV? I know it depends on the AVR + TV, but I still don't know and maybe someone has information in this exact case.

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post #642 of 1377 Old 03-05-2019, 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ht guy View Post
It's actually not a 10/20/3080, but their brother, the cx-a5200.

I've run YPAO, set all the speakers to small/80hz and it sounds great.

Right now, the two subs are in opposing corners - one of two places they will fit - although they could alternatively sit in the front L/R corners, the opposing setup seems to provide more tactile response.

From what I've read, YPAO isn't much help below 35hz. Can I get a meaningful improvement in sound by investing in/running a mini dsp/umk-1/REW setup - even though I can't do the "sub crawl" and put them in the best place for sound (as I'm limited to the two placement options described?)
You could start with the mic and REW first, take some measurements and see what you are dealing with first before introducing the MiniDSP into the chain. You can do a lot with the 4 bands of sub EQ that Yamaha gives you.
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post #643 of 1377 Old 03-05-2019, 04:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renatto View Post
Now, because you are talking about it, may I ask which is the best for upconversion in my chain?



Himedia Q30 > RX-A2080 > LG OLED55B7.



Now Himedia sending out 1080p/2160p (or XboxOneX 2160p) > AVR set always 4K > TV



I thought the AVR has the best upscaling system, that's why I set AVR to 4K. Should I set to through and do it with the TV? I know it depends on the AVR + TV, but I still don't know and maybe someone has information in this exact case.
I don't think you can define one as best. They are all likely different (and average) and you just need to decide which one you prefer.

Personally I never use the AVR. I find there is too much noise reduction and smoothing that comes with it. But I'll admit I haven't done exhaustive testing on the 3080.

The TV is nothing special but it is better than most of the cheap streaming devices out there. I have no experience with the Q30 to comment.
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post #644 of 1377 Old 03-05-2019, 08:24 AM
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It's been a while since I bought a new AVR. My Denon 4520CI went on the blink recently, 6 years old, and now I am considering a new AVR giving the 1080 some consideration. Until then my 11 year old Onkyo is running the show after sitting idle on a shelf in the basement for the past 6 years lol. Just something about the newer AVRs with the upgraded HDMI inputs/outputs that I question. I am running the older HDMIs (1.3 I believe) from my AVR to TV and from OPPO to AVR and cable box set to AVR. Will the older cables still work with the newer AVRs? Am I missing something if I don't upgrade to the 2.0 or whatever?

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post #645 of 1377 Old 03-05-2019, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ht guy View Post
From what I've read, YPAO isn't much help below 35hz.
I've seen this quote before. What does it mean? Does this mean my pair of Klipsch R-115SW subs arent producing any lower than 35hz? I only used the YPAO and use the "Natural" setting. I haven't used PEQ on my subs because I don't want to screw something up by not having the proper tools.
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post #646 of 1377 Old 03-05-2019, 03:20 PM
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I'm using a Fire TV Stick 4K plugged directly into my 3080 and it works fine. My TV is an LG UH8500 though. Make sure the 3080 is set to 4K Mode 1 (pg. 161 in the manual). Other than that, my only guess is something to do with Dolby Vision. The Fire TV stick defaults to DV for the home menu. I know the Sonys use a different DV profile from everyone else, so assuming your A9F has the DV firmware update, maybe there's an incompatibility somewhere in the chain? I don't have a Sony, so I have no way to test that.

DV is fine on my A9F, was working with the previous firestick until it wasn't, DV works fine on the ATV. Can you please tell me how do I find the 4K mode 1 on the 3080- i'm not seeing it in the menus? Thank you for your help.
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post #647 of 1377 Old 03-05-2019, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by sourbeef View Post
It's been a while since I bought a new AVR. My Denon 4520CI went on the blink recently, 6 years old, and now I am considering a new AVR giving the 1080 some consideration. Until then my 11 year old Onkyo is running the show after sitting idle on a shelf in the basement for the past 6 years lol. Just something about the newer AVRs with the upgraded HDMI inputs/outputs that I question. I am running the older HDMIs (1.3 I believe) from my AVR to TV and from OPPO to AVR and cable box set to AVR. Will the older cables still work with the newer AVRs? Am I missing something if I don't upgrade to the 2.0 or whatever?

Do oyu have a 4K TV? You'll probably need newer high speed HDMI cables for them- cables are dirt cheap at Amazon , Monoprice are good
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post #648 of 1377 Old 03-05-2019, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr Steve View Post
DV is fine on my A9F, was working with the previous firestick until it wasn't, DV works fine on the ATV. Can you please tell me how do I find the 4K mode 1 on the 3080- i'm not seeing it in the menus? Thank you for your help.

It's not in the regular menus. You have to access the advanced setup menu on the front panel. See Pg. 158 in the manual. The 4K mode is described on Pg. 161.
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post #649 of 1377 Old 03-05-2019, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr Steve View Post
DV is fine on my A9F, was working with the previous firestick until it wasn't, DV works fine on the ATV. Can you please tell me how do I find the 4K mode 1 on the 3080- i'm not seeing it in the menus? Thank you for your help.
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post #650 of 1377 Old 03-05-2019, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr Steve View Post
Do oyu have a 4K TV? You'll probably need newer high speed HDMI cables for them- cables are dirt cheap at Amazon , Monoprice are good
No, I have no 4K TV, so I guess I am good with the old cables for now. Thanks.

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post #651 of 1377 Old 03-05-2019, 07:39 PM
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About the halfway point in this thread there was a discussion about the bubble in the AV Controller app. I’m having trouble finding the “bubble”. Here’s my view:
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post #652 of 1377 Old 03-05-2019, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Lyle Beach View Post
I've seen this quote before. What does it mean? Does this mean my pair of Klipsch R-115SW subs arent producing any lower than 35hz? I only used the YPAO and use the "Natural" setting. I haven't used PEQ on my subs because I don't want to screw something up by not having the proper tools.
No, the frequencies should be going to the sub. I believe most people are referring to YPAO's inability to test and assign PEQ below 35 Hz or so.

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Originally Posted by Dr Steve View Post
Do oyu have a 4K TV? You'll probably need newer high speed HDMI cables for them- cables are dirt cheap at Amazon , Monoprice are good
Buy "Certified." Monoprice and Blue Jeans Cable sell them. I've had bad luck with Amazon Basics cables in the past, and noname or off-brand cables on Amazon are IMHO a crap shoot.

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Originally Posted by Tim Akin View Post
About the halfway point in this thread there was a discussion about the bubble in the AV Controller app. I’m having trouble finding the “bubble”. Here’s my view:
Bubble? You realize that you can search for the answer in teh "Search this topic" box at the top of page? It only takes a few seconds.

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Last edited by ChromeJob; 03-05-2019 at 11:52 PM. Reason: Found in 10 seconds flat. :-\
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post #653 of 1377 Old 03-06-2019, 02:24 AM
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About the halfway point in this thread there was a discussion about the bubble in the AV Controller app. I’m having trouble finding the “bubble”. Here’s my view:
You need to select one of the DSP modes first for the screen to change and then you will have a choice between one finger adjust (bubble shown over listening area) or the advanced mode which is enabled after you touch on the pencil icon.
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post #654 of 1377 Old 03-06-2019, 03:35 AM
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Originally Posted by H Stevens View Post
You could start with the mic and REW first, take some measurements and see what you are dealing with first before introducing the MiniDSP into the chain. You can do a lot with the 4 bands of sub EQ that Yamaha gives you.
Thanks.

I thought a MiniDSP was need to do the measurements. From your comment, it sounds like you can hook the UMK-1 directly to a laptop for measurements. I obviously need to do some reading. Thanks for the reply.
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post #655 of 1377 Old 03-06-2019, 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ht guy View Post
Thanks.

I thought a MiniDSP was need to do the measurements. From your comment, it sounds like you can hook the UMK-1 directly to a laptop for measurements. I obviously need to do some reading. Thanks for the reply.
Yup, UMIK connected to your laptop that's running REW (which is what I do). Take some measurements. You can then use the manual PEQ in the Yamaha to make adjustments and measure again. I think it only gives you 4 bands of PEQ and the frequency selection is limited. As was pointed out, there's quite a lot you can do with that though. If you still can't get what you want with the Yamaha PEQ, add the miniDSP between the sub and Yamaha subwoofer output to make further EQ adjustments.
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post #656 of 1377 Old 03-06-2019, 06:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ht guy View Post

From what I've read, YPAO isn't much help below 35hz. Can I get a meaningful improvement in sound by investing in/running a mini dsp/umk-1/REW setup - even though I can't do the "sub crawl" and put them in the best place for sound (as I'm limited to the two placement options described?)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lyle Beach View Post
I've seen this quote before. What does it mean? Does this mean my pair of Klipsch R-115SW subs arent producing any lower than 35hz? I only used the YPAO and use the "Natural" setting. I haven't used PEQ on my subs because I don't want to screw something up by not having the proper tools.
It means the mic supplied with your AVR and the software (YPAO) are not capable of measuring/correction of frequencies below 31.3Hz
If your sub is capable of playing below 31.3Hz it will certainly "play" content below that level, but if you have Peaks, Standing Waves, Nuls, Room Modes etc,
then YPAO will not make any EQ adjustments to your frequency response like it does for frequencies above the 31.3Hz "cut-off".

a UMIK-1 calibrated usb mic (~$75) or similar, that is capable of measuring down to single digit frequencies, can help
when used with a laptop and REW (free software download) Link: https://www.roomeqwizard.com/

REW How To: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-au...l#post22823228

Once you get accurate data on what your room is really doing with your sub(s) you can relocate your subs, or seating position,
add bass traps etc, to help correct any issues...you can also make Manual PEQ corrections in your Yamaha down to 16Hz to help tame any peaks you may have in your FR. (Frequency Response)
Nuls (aka a "dip") in your FR cannot really be fixed in software, you need to make physical room corrections or add more subs to even out your room across all seating positions.

A miniDSP is simply another tool that can be used to further tweak your sub(s) FR outside of the Yamaha's somewhat limited LFE/ULF 4 bands of EQ/calibration capabilities,
You can time align up to 4 separate sub output channels, and there are 10 bands of EQ at your disposal for each sub channel, all the way down to 10Hz.

I have 4 subs, capable down to ~10Hz and a bit over 14K watts of peak output power
and 4 Crowson motion actuators that are good down to ~3Hz....all running through my miniDSP 2x4HD.

I also use my miniDSP 2x4HD (~$200) to load Bass EQ (BEQ) low shelf frequency adjustments on the input channels.
Check out the BEQ thread if you get a chance, We have over 600 movie titles on the list so far that have restored the LFE/ULF on titles that have been heavily filtered.




More info here: Bass EQ for Filtered Movies

ht guy likes this.

The Unfinished Basement Theater & Whisky Guitar Lounge | Bass EQ for Filtered Movies
JVC DLA X750 4K Projector | 120" Powered Drop Screen | 65" LG 65B6P OLED | Panasonic DMP UB900 | Oppo UDP 203 | HDFury Vertex
Yamaha RX-A3070 | 7.4.4.4 | Mission M3i x11 | Funk Audio 18.0 x2 | Velodyne DLS 5000R x2 | Crowson LvL3 MA x4 | miniDSP 2x4HD

Last edited by PioManiac; 03-06-2019 at 07:14 AM.
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post #657 of 1377 Old 03-06-2019, 07:50 AM
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Great explanation, Thank you!
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post #658 of 1377 Old 03-06-2019, 08:36 AM
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Hi everyone

I just got the Yamaha RX-V2085 (identical to the 2080). This my first Yamaha receiver and I'm trying to figure out how to best set up the different surround modes based on source. It's connected to a 5.1.2 (soon to be 7.1.2) system. There A LOT of different surround options and DSP modes, on top of the Surround:AI mode, and I'm not sure how to best configure the receiver so that 2.1, 5.1, 7.1, Atmos and DTS-X movies play at their best and give the best sense of surround.

I would love to get some feedback from owners as to how you guys have your AVR setup fro all these sources.

Thanks!
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post #659 of 1377 Old 03-06-2019, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H Stevens View Post
You need to select one of the DSP modes first for the screen to change and then you will have a choice between one finger adjust (bubble shown over listening area) or the advanced mode which is enabled after you touch on the pencil icon.
Thanks. One of the DSP modes is highlighted with a blue outline, is that what you mean by select or is there another way to select the DSP to get that screen up? This can't be that hard and I watched the video on it and still can't get it.
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post #660 of 1377 Old 03-06-2019, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChromeJob View Post


Bubble? You realize that you can search for the answer in teh "Search this topic" box at the top of page? It only takes a few seconds.

...

Ok thanks but there is no answer is this thread. I have read all the post about it and watched a video and still can't get it.
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