The "Official" Yamaha RX-A3080, RX-A2080 and RX-A1080 AVENTAGE AVR Thread - Page 5 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #121 of 1154 Old 11-09-2018, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by akcorr View Post
Just put in my order for the A2080! I went with the Yamaha since I've read several comments on the build quality. I'm coming from a Pioneer Elite SC-27 and I thought that was built well. Built better than that?
I don’t know about the Pioneer but I’ve had my A2080 for a few weeks and it has awesome build quality! The remote is great too. Also excellent clarity and vocal/instrument/channel separation for 2 channel music.

Also, I like the AVR control app...

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post #122 of 1154 Old 11-11-2018, 06:39 PM
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Since I mentioned it above, thought I would follow up with a photo. Replaced the NS-777 fronts with NS-F901's. Absolute beautiful and the sound is simply amazing. I thought the 777's sounded good. The F901's are on another level.
Quite a difference in price between the 777 and 901?

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post #123 of 1154 Old 11-13-2018, 05:44 AM
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Well Apparently Yamaha returned bluetooth output to the 1080 via update. Can someone who perhaps has a 1070 chime in on the quality and use of this feature?

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post #124 of 1154 Old 11-13-2018, 07:51 AM
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Dolby Surround Mode for DTS-MA Tracks

I read that the 80's series no longer support applying Dolby Surround upmixing (to Atmos) when the track is DTS-MA, and vice versa for DTS-X. However I tested it a few times and it seems to work just fine, i.e., DSur upmixing DTS-MA to Atmos, so this seems to be no longer restricted.

Not sure if it comes this way or due to recent firmware updates but if one likes it now it works.
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post #125 of 1154 Old 11-13-2018, 09:26 AM
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My new yamaha CX-A5200 processor had a firmware update that enables the BT to transmit to headphone or surround speakers. I paired it to my bose QC30 wireless headphones and it worked great with zero lag.
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post #126 of 1154 Old 11-13-2018, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by cc609cc609 View Post
I read that the 80's series no longer support applying Dolby Surround upmixing (to Atmos) when the track is DTS-MA, and vice versa for DTS-X. However I tested it a few times and it seems to work just fine, i.e., DSur upmixing DTS-MA to Atmos, so this seems to be no longer restricted.

Not sure if it comes this way or due to recent firmware updates but if one likes it now it works.
Applying Dolby Surround on DTS audio always worked, what didn't work at factory release was applying DTS Neural:X on any DD, DD+, or Dolby TrueHD. Are you saying the latter now works?
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post #127 of 1154 Old 11-13-2018, 04:56 PM
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Sorry if this has been answered before.

I saw on Yamaha's website that the Aventage 80 series will receive a firmware update that allows for eARC. Am I correct in assuming that I would be able to feed a 4k signal with Variable Refresh Rate and uncompressed LPCM 7.1 surround from a Xbox One X, into a TV that's compatible with both VRR and eARC and be able to get 7.1 LPCM sound on a RX-A1080 using eARC?
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post #128 of 1154 Old 11-13-2018, 09:01 PM
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Using a 3060 currently. Wondering if an upgrade to the 3080 would solve this issue.

Video from nVidia Shield to 3060 to TV, the max HDMI signal I can negotiate is Rec.2020 422 @24hz. If I take the 3060 out, I can get Rec.2020 420 @60hz. My best theory is this is a bandwidth limitation of the 3060. Is anyone using 60hz with 10/12 bit HDR signals passing through a 3080 without issue?
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post #129 of 1154 Old 11-14-2018, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post
Applying Dolby Surround on DTS audio always worked, what didn't work at factory release was applying DTS Neural:X on any DD, DD+, or Dolby TrueHD. Are you saying the latter now works?
I tested it again and found that Neural:X works on DD but not DTHD. I can select Neural:X over DTHD but it becomes 5.1 only.

This is probably academic only as I think most have atmos speakers setup so upmixing using Dolby Surround is probably more suitable anyway.
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post #130 of 1154 Old 11-14-2018, 06:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cyphers72 View Post
Using a 3060 currently. Wondering if an upgrade to the 3080 would solve this issue.

Video from nVidia Shield to 3060 to TV, the max HDMI signal I can negotiate is Rec.2020 422 @24hz. If I take the 3060 out, I can get Rec.2020 420 @60hz. My best theory is this is a bandwidth limitation of the 3060. Is anyone using 60hz with 10/12 bit HDR signals passing through a 3080 without issue?
I've had an RX-A3050 for 3 years, and currently an RX-A3070 with no issues on either passing 4K/60 BT.2020 HDR 4:2:2 12 Bit


I suspect your RX-A3060 may need to be set to 4K "Mode 1" (in the advanced menu) Mode 2 is limited to <10Gbps
or perhaps one of your HDMI cables is not 18Gbps capable (or too long).



I only use certified approved 18Gbps cables from Monoprice (longest run is 30' to my JVC projector)
Cable runs over 25' often require a Fiber Optic (Celerity) HDMI cable.



4K/24 HDR/BT.2020 4:4:4 12Bit (13.4 Gbps)


4K/60 HDR/BT.2020 4:2:2 12 Bit (17.8Gbps)

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post #131 of 1154 Old 11-14-2018, 09:03 AM
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Hi,
Is there a way to see bit rate/sampling rate information on Yamaha A3080 for currently played source?
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post #132 of 1154 Old 11-14-2018, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cc609cc609 View Post
I tested it again and found that Neural:X works on DD but not DTHD. I can select Neural:X over DTHD but it becomes 5.1 only.

This is probably academic only as I think most have atmos speakers setup so upmixing using Dolby Surround is probably more suitable anyway.
Not necessarily. As DTS Neural:X provides for much more active overhead speakers, many of us prefer using it over Dolby Surround.
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post #133 of 1154 Old 11-14-2018, 05:39 PM
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My 2080 comes in tomorrow. Surround AI? Stay away from it? Any other settings that I should consider or not consider on these receivers?

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post #134 of 1154 Old 11-14-2018, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by PioManiac View Post
I've had an RX-A3050 for 3 years, and currently an RX-A3070 with no issues on either passing 4K/60 BT.2020 HDR 4:2:2 12 Bit


I suspect your RX-A3060 may need to be set to 4K "Mode 1" (in the advanced menu) Mode 2 is limited to <10Gbps
or perhaps one of your HDMI cables is not 18Gbps capable (or too long).
That did it! Switched to Mode 1 and at the same time swapped to a Premium Certified HDMI cable and now it works great. Thanks.
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post #135 of 1154 Old 11-15-2018, 03:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akcorr View Post
My 2080 comes in tomorrow. Surround AI? Stay away from it? Any other settings that I should consider or not consider on these receivers?
Surround AI works very well so I suggest that you give it a try, stay away from Extra Bass, consider Natural in the PEQ section over Flat if you choose to use YPAO. Also, YPAO Volume works very well and is not over the top like Audyssey DEQ which is just my personal opinion but YPAO Volume doesn't exaggerate the surround and sub levels, much more natural sounding.

If you decide to tweak the low and high end, the Treble and Bass Tone controls as well as the Subwoofer Trim controls found in the option menu are very powerful and allows you to create your own house curve without going into manual PEQ if your into that sort of thing. The Subwoofer Trim control is not a shortcut to the subwoofer channel level as is the case on most receivers and will not boost the crossover point which the sub channel level will do. Here is Yamaha's description:

Subwoofer Trim
Improved sound imaging. The Subwoofer Trim Control enhances the low frequencies by avoiding overlap with the front speaker output. This will result in a cleaner, more focused soundstage while providing a seamless frequency response. When subwoofer frequency overlap occurs in conventional systems, the overall sound is “pushed” toward the subwoofer. Subwoofer Trim Control takes care of this by separating the low subwoofer frequencies cleanly, thus stabilizing the front stage while providing a well-balanced enhanced bass sound.


Best of luck, great receiver
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post #136 of 1154 Old 11-15-2018, 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by akcorr View Post
My 2080 comes in tomorrow. Surround AI? Stay away from it? Any other settings that I should consider or not consider on these receivers?
I've had my A2080 for a month. I'm still not done tweaking and figuring out what I like best, far from mastering all of it. There's quite a few options regarding YPAO's EQ modes and settings like Dynamic Range. I actually like AI, however I am not very interested in the DSP modes.

For me, Surround Decode option with AI is what I've liked best so far with movies. It seems like with AI on I get better surround sound and I'm only using front L and R. Yes, sound does come from the sides and behind me even with only L/R fronts and sub(s), pretty sweet. But there are a lot of other settings like Virtual Surround that may be contributing to that too.

As far as YPAO PEQ modes (or any mode options for that matter) it's best to try them all for yourself. At the moment I've settled on YPAO Flat but for me it's then crucial to turn Adaptive DRC off. If it's on YPAO Flat is tinny without much color and bass. Anyhow, definitely experiment. It's almost necessary to write up a chart to keep track of all the settings because there's lot's of different configurations to try, and easy to lose track where you were at for comparison

I would go into all the features with an open mind when it comes to these subjective. Have fun!
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post #137 of 1154 Old 11-16-2018, 04:49 AM
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Just starting setting up my 2080 last night and ran into an issue. I hooked up a roku box via HDMI to one of the 7 HDMI inputs on the receiver. When I went to that input every 10-15 seconds the screen blanks out and comes back. It's almost as if it rediscovering the input. This does not happen on my Oppo BD player, my PS4, or my cable/sat box. Have any of you ran into a similar issue? Do you think there could be something wrong with the HDMI switch inside the receiver?

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post #138 of 1154 Old 11-16-2018, 07:06 AM
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Sounds like it could be a cable issue. Have you tried a different HDMI cable?

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post #139 of 1154 Old 11-16-2018, 07:36 AM
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and use 4K mode 1 under advanced setup

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post #140 of 1154 Old 11-16-2018, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
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4K Mode 1 is already the default setting on the XX80 series Yamaha's
Should never be a reason to change from that.
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post #141 of 1154 Old 11-16-2018, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpippel View Post
Sounds like it could be a cable issue. Have you tried a different HDMI cable?

Good point. Just put in order for 4 new high speed cables from monoprice. The ones I'm using now are pretty old.

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post #142 of 1154 Old 11-16-2018, 08:02 AM
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Yeah, if you're trying to pass 4K on anything other than a Certified Premium cable it's a crap shoot.
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post #143 of 1154 Old 11-16-2018, 08:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akcorr View Post
Just starting setting up my 2080 last night and ran into an issue. I hooked up a roku box via HDMI to one of the 7 HDMI inputs on the receiver. When I went to that input every 10-15 seconds the screen blanks out and comes back. It's almost as if it rediscovering the input. This does not happen on my Oppo BD player, my PS4, or my cable/sat box. Have any of you ran into a similar issue? Do you think there could be something wrong with the HDMI switch inside the receiver?
Is it a 4K/HDR capable roku?

You need to try the roku with a different HDMI cable and HDMI port on the AVR (preferably one that you already know works for 4K/UHD/HDR)
...Process of elimination to see if the issue follows your roku, (if so, it was the roku or its settings that are broken)

If not, plug a device that worked before, into the port the roku was acting up on if its an issue still, it's likely that port that is faulty (not likely)
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post #144 of 1154 Old 11-16-2018, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PioManiac View Post
Is it a 4K/HDR capable roku?

You need to try the roku with a different HDMI cable and HDMI port on the AVR (preferably one that you already know works for 4K/UHD/HDR)
...Process of elimination to see if the issue follows your roku, (if so, it was the roku or its settings that are broken)

If not, plug a device that worked before, into the port the roku was acting up on if its an issue still, it's likely that port that is faulty (not likely)
I don't have a 4K set yet but yes the Roku is 4K capable. That would make sense since my Oppo is the BD-103 model (not 4K) and my PS4 is not 4K capable either. Both of those devices/inputs were fine.

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post #145 of 1154 Old 11-16-2018, 09:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by akcorr View Post
I don't have a 4K set yet but yes the Roku is 4K capable. That would make sense since my Oppo is the BD-103 model (not 4K) and my PS4 is not 4K capable either. Both of those devices/inputs were fine.
You probably need to make a setting adjustment in the Roku to tell it your display is not 4K BT.2020 HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2 compatible

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post #146 of 1154 Old 11-16-2018, 09:39 AM
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Sounds like it could be a cable issue. Have you tried a different HDMI cable?
Specifically "HDMI premium certified" cables.....
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post #147 of 1154 Old 11-16-2018, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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He doesn't even have a 4K/HDR HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2 capable Display...So it's Not a cable issue.

Of course the 4K Roku won't sync with the old 1.3 HDMI TV
Change the Roku settings to match the TV and all will be the same as the rest of his old 1080p sources.

monoprice certified premium cables are only needed for 4K Capable players on 4K Displays
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post #148 of 1154 Old 11-16-2018, 10:23 AM
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So, if the TV is 1080p SDR (HDMI 1.3) would setting the Roku box to 1080p SDR be enough...

or would 4K mode 2 be recommended as well to put the AVR into HDMI 1.4 mode?

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post #149 of 1154 Old 11-16-2018, 10:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
So, if the TV is 1080p SDR (HDMI 1.3) would setting the Roku box to 1080p SDR be enough...

YES


or would 4K mode 2 be recommended as well to put the AVR into HDMI 1.4 mode?

No
mode change is not required

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post #150 of 1154 Old 11-16-2018, 03:32 PM
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I would suggest that the Roku is struggling with clock stretching.
Basically, HDMI requires a handshake to happen very quickly and on a regular basis to ensure the HDCP (copy protection) is 100%.
If the video keeps dropping out, the first place to check is the cables (get 4K certified as you have a 4K compliant amplifier and source and the chances are your next display will be 4K compliant too)... then look for a HDCP re-clocker. This will basically negotiate the HDCP side of things instead of the Roku. Typically you put it after the source (just before the RXA3080).
What brand you go with is up to you...
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